Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame

[Niculasch]

Thanks, that makes sense.

The expander that came with my frame is actually the integrated type where the top cap and expander are one single piece. I’m starting to suspect that might be the reason why I cannot properly preload the headset.

I just ordered a 70 mm Deda expander plug which uses a separate top cap and expansion system.

Hopefully that will solve the issue.

[tmhbrl]

Thanks, that makes sense.

The expander that came with my frame is actually the integrated type where the top cap and expander are one single piece. I’m starting to suspect that might be the reason why I cannot properly preload the headset.

I just ordered a 70 mm Deda expander plug which uses a separate top cap and expansion system.

Hopefully that will solve the issue.

are you sure it is? after the top cap comes off (often a hex 4 or hex 5 key) there is a screw in the expander (often hex 6 or hex which you might have overlooked?

[CycOps]

@Nikulasch: That's what I wanted to point out.
The expander you posted the pic, you should be able to remove the screw from the top cap. If it's very tight, you need to mount the expander in a vise.

[inyaki.gs]

Hello,

I’ve had my gravel bike assembled for a couple of months now. Although I’ve only done about 5 or 6 rides because I usually ride my road bike more often. The thing is that today I wanted to adjust the saddle tilt (I wanted to lower the nose because I was experiencing discomfort in the perineal area), and I found that there was no way to move the tilt.

I removed the saddle and it turns out that the clamp that hold the saddle rails are completely stuck. There’s no way to move them. I tried to disassemble it to apply a bit of grease, but it’s impossible to take it off. I don’t know what to do.

I’m attaching a photo of the parts I’m referring to.

[Unknownftp]

Hopefully that will solve the issue.

Mine is the same as yours, the gap between the top lip of the silver part sits about a 2.5mm to 3mm below to top of the bars. Also confirmed the gap between the cover and the frame is 1mm. Attached photos of all parts and the top cap I'm using.

I removed the saddle and it turns out that the clamp that hold the saddle rails are completely stuck. There’s no way to move them. I tried to disassemble it to apply a bit of grease, but it’s impossible to take it off. I don’t know what to do.

Mine is also sticking but it'll move angle under when I really torque it to a different angle. havent figured out a way to pull out the middle part, tried once to "twist" the saddle to try to loosen it but no luck.

[Niculasch]

quick update on yesterday’s build 😅

The headset issue was that it wouldn’t preload properly: even when tightening everything there was still a bit of play because the top cover was bottoming out before the compression ring could properly load the bearing.

I fixed it by installing the 70 mm Deda expander and adding a 1 mm shim under the top cover. Now the headset preloads correctly and the play is gone. There’s still a tiny gap between the cover and the frame, but it’s purely cosmetic.

The other issue is the rear derailleur B-gap: when shifting from 36 → 42 the upper pulley slightly touches the 51T sprocket because the Shimano B-screw is already fully threaded in and I can’t move the derailleur further back.

So I ordered the 25 mm Wolf Tooth B-screw, which should give a bit more adjustment range. Hopefully that will solve it 🤞

[Niculasch]

Hello,

I’ve had my gravel bike assembled for a couple of months now. Although I’ve only done about 5 or 6 rides because I usually ride my road bike more often. The thing is that today I wanted to adjust the saddle tilt (I wanted to lower the nose because I was experiencing discomfort in the perineal area), and I found that there was no way to move the tilt.

I removed the saddle and it turns out that the clamp that hold the saddle rails are completely stuck. There’s no way to move them. I tried to disassemble it to apply a bit of grease, but it’s impossible to take it off. I don’t know what to do.

I’m attaching a photo of the parts I’m referring to.

By screwing and tightening the saddle, that piece is compressed into the tube. Just insert a screwdriver into the hole and hammer the clamp on the other side.

[Niculasch]

Here is my newly completed build!

Chameleon pink aero gravel frame in size M with integrated cockpit and Elite wheels aero gravel wheels with 45mm profile and 2.0 Continental Race King tires.

Shimano Grx di2 groupset and xt di2 derailleur
Ultegra discs
Miche xm12 11-51 cassette
Woolf-tooth 46t chainring
Fizik Tempo Argo saddle
KMC X12 chain
XT pedals
Magene crankset with P515 power meter and 167.5mm cranks

I didn't have any particular difficulties with the assembly, except for a few minor issues with the headset (resolved with a shim higher than the one supplied).

Perhaps I went a little overboard with the tire section (even though I have about 4mm of clearance per side at the narrowest point at the rear), but I've seen that someone else has already fitted them without any problems. The 46t is also quite close to the limit (I have about 4mm at the point closest to the frame).

I haven't done a test yet, but I'll definitely do one in the next few days.

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

[geramonta]

Here is my newly completed build!

Chameleon pink aero gravel frame in size M with integrated cockpit and Elite wheels aero gravel wheels with 45mm profile and 2.0 Continental Race King tires.

Shimano Grx di2 groupset and xt di2 derailleur
Ultegra discs
Miche xm12 11-51 cassette
Woolf-tooth 46t chainring
Fizik Tempo Argo saddle
KMC X12 chain
XT pedals
Magene crankset with P515 power meter and 167.5mm cranks

I didn't have any particular difficulties with the assembly, except for a few minor issues with the headset (resolved with a shim higher than the one supplied).

Perhaps I went a little overboard with the tire section (even though I have about 4mm of clearance per side at the narrowest point at the rear), but I've seen that someone else has already fitted them without any problems. The 46t is also quite close to the limit (I have about 4mm at the point closest to the frame).

I haven't done a test yet, but I'll definitely do one in the next few days.

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

What width do the Continental Race King 2.0 measure when mounted on Elite rims with a 32 mm internal width?
And how much clearance is left between the tire and the frame, especially at the rear?

If possible, could you measure it and send some pictures?
I’m planning to run the Continental Race King 2.0 at the rear and the 2.1 at the front, but I want to make sure it won’t get clogged in muddy conditions.

[Motus]

 Good morning from Tirreno-Adriatico 

[Luffabong]

Hi guys,

I have finished my (first ever) built and ran into the same headset problem, its already more than tight and there is still play left. I dont fully get why and how you guys fixed it, so I would immensely appreciated your feedback. I also had to move the settings of the derallieur almost as much "inwards" as possible for the derallieur to sit over the cassette properly and was worried but shifting is smooth so I dont see any reason to change it.

Here is my built:
Grx Di2 827 (fully wireless) with 105 brakes and levers, enough for me and I much prefer the "slimmer" handles.
Elitewheels whatever
Velobuild Gravel handlebar
44t chainring, I will need bigger. Might even try a 9-45 cassette if 46 is the max chainring.

I would be very grateful for you input. Attached you see the expander, the cover and how the expander sits on top of the fork.
How on earth can I get rid of that headset play?
Shim? If yes, where is that supposed to go?
Shorten the fork another mm? -> From how it looks, that shouldnt make a difference. The cap sits correctly and I can properly "pull" the expander towards the top cap.

It feels more like there is "back and forth play" so when I pull the front break and push / pull the bike, the whole cockpit and spacer tower moves back and fort about 1-2mm.
Is that what you guys are describing?

Its driving me nuts and I am really at a loss at this point.


@Niculasch: LOVE your built, looks sick! Great colour, very nicely done.
Which handlebar have you got? It seems you can easily use a different expander, because the round top cap from the Deda fits?
I got the gravel handlebar from velobuild with the custom top cap, that wouldnt work / look stupid.
Also, is the chainline ok? The p515 is a narrower crankset than GRX / SRAM xplr, right? I initially wanted to built it with a p515 as well, have one in stock, but stepped away after reading about chainline.


@Motus: That looks like the same handlebar I got. Did you have play in the headset and how did you fix it?

[hubba]

If a steerer tube is few mm too long to remove the play you can always tighten the headset first using a round spacer if you have one. Sometimes you can even use a spacer from integrated handlebar installed sideways. After tightening the top cap so there's no play tighten the stem bolts then remove the top cap and round spacer and install the original top cap.

[shy-b]

Here is my build:

Size S Frame color Chromoxide green RAL 6020 in glossy.
Velobuild Integrated Handlebar with flare in 400x100
Full new Sram Rival XPLR 13 Speed group
Elitewheels 38mm Gravel Wheelset
Schwalbe G One RX Pro in 50mm in front
TUFO Thunder 48mm in back

I tried Thunderburts 2.1 in the back but its veery close to the chainstay. I´m not sure if would ride it like that. There is like 2mm space to the chainstays.

Building up was easy without major Problems. Routing the hose through the handlebar was easy without routing tools and made like first try. The metal two-piece spacers are nor really well made. The 1,5cm one doesn't fit nice together. I have no headset play after three rides but we will see. The rear brake mount wasn´t faced properly. Sanded a little bit of paint and it was ok. The seat post doesn't slip.

It rides very fast and snappy but boy it is stiff. Had only an aluminium gravel bike before and I thought carbon is more "flex"-kindof but it's very rigid. But that was kind of what I was looking for.

[Luffabong]

If a steerer tube is few mm too long to remove the play you can always tighten the headset first using a round spacer if you have one. Sometimes you can even use a spacer from integrated handlebar installed sideways. After tightening the top cap so there's no play tighten the stem bolts then remove the top cap and round spacer and install the original top cap.

Im not sure I get what you mean. Isnt that the same effect as shortening the fork another 1-2mm?
And it sound like transferring all the "force" onto the stem bolts?
I think there are 3 options, which applies here I dont really now. Either the expander doesnt hold, or I have cut the steering tube just slightly too long so I cant apply the necessary force, or there is "play" in the bearings.

Has anyone used my type of handlebar and the out of the box equipment from Velobuild without issues?

[Chiyou]

Adding additional spacers will help you diagnose what's going on with your headset (without the hassle of having to cut the fork again).

Loose expander -> carefully observe position of expander, then tighten top cap (with the additional spacers installed). Then disassemble everything again to see whether the expander moved.
Steerer tube too long -> if the issue with the headset play doesn't return with the additional spacers installed (and you have ruled out the expander), you know your steerer tube needs shortening.
Bearing play -> unlikely, I suspect you'd be able to feel that just by handling the bearings.

And yes, the clamped stem is what's meant to keep the headset compressed; the top cap is only intended for the initial bearing pre-load.

Regarding your question about the shim, you'll need shims if your bearing cover bottoms out against the frame; you want the cover to float just above the headtube. The shim(s) would sit between the compression ring and the cover.