Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame

[BikerJens]

Dumb question time (first time I'm building a bike):

Do you use outer housing, inside the frame, together with the gear wire?

I would assume yes. Asked a friend, he said no. The confusion got complete when Shimano only delivers one outer housing (1700 mm) with a set of 2x2100 mm gear wire.

[pavlo.k]

Dumb question time (first time I'm building a bike):

Do you use outer housing, inside the frame, together with the gear wire?

I would assume yes. Asked a friend, he said no. The confusion got complete when Shimano only delivers one outer housing (1700 mm) with a set of 2x2100 mm gear wire.

Yes, you have to use outer housing all the way through

[BikerJens]

Yes, you have to use outer housing all the way through

Thank you.

I was also pretty sure, but the Shimano part really did not help my confidence..

[jo1673]

Im running SRAM Rival flat mount. 32mm for the rear and 15mm for the front is what was required. Dont forget you need the mounting plate for the front as well.

Hi, will these bolts and the mounting plate normally be included when I purchase a set of levers/brakes (SRAM Rival in my case)? Or do I need to source it somewhere else?

[Motus]

I finally put on the Sram red cranks, the Favero assioma MX will arrive next week.

The weight is more or less as expected... in this version, with 29" and 11-51 cassette, we are around 8.2 kg. With the Gravelking 38mm and 11-36 cassette, 7.3 kg.

With the 29 obviously more comfortable and faster on rough terrain... but I think that for the winter, with the racing bike placed on the trainer, I will use it mainly with the 38mm.

[sbixify]

Hi, will these bolts and the mounting plate normally be included when I purchase a set of levers/brakes (SRAM Rival in my case)? Or do I need to source it somewhere else?

I had to get it separately. Bought the full Rival E1 groupset from Bike-discount. I also had to get those Majig fittings for the brake hoses separately.

[awinner]

Hi, will these bolts and the mounting plate normally be included when I purchase a set of levers/brakes (SRAM Rival in my case)? Or do I need to source it somewhere else?

No, usually not supplied as you need different plates and bolts depending on the frame. eg: you do not need a plate for 160mm at the rear on this frame. SRAM sell the bolts but charge an arm and a leg. Front you need a plate and the sram plate comes with mounting bolts.

[shy-b]

Size recommendations: My height is 1,80m and inseam is 84cm. I thougt getting the M frame but my current bike has a similar geometry in the front and I would like to get a lil lower stack-wise. I have rather longer arms and maybe I can get away with S and a longer stem…

Any people here with the same issues?

[Pistonbroke]

Hi folks
Anyone using this as a pure road bike, as I'm quite liking the thoughts of a lot longer reach than I currently have.
Cheers!

[Mokora]

I am suffering - trying to understand the topic of optimal chainline / chainring Offset.

Here is my current understanding:

Mounting 50mm tyres to this frame, I will have to opt for a chainline of at least 47.5mm to clear the tyre, but getting any bigger the drivetrain becomes exponentially more inefficient.
So you really try to hit that sweet spot. Doing so with any AXS XPLR crankset is easy, taking either newer E1 wide / or older D1 wide and changing the 2x chainrings to any AXS or XPLR 1x model, because the offset is the same across those two groupset families - 6mm.

Now the confusing part: If I want to opt for any 3rd party cranks / aero chainring the standards get thrown around like crazy. Seemingly there are only either 45mm cranksets, or 49.7mm chainline cranksets - which is crazy wide, even for shimano grx. To combat, you could then put a 3mm offset chainring on those, making it an effective 46.7mm - close enough to clear 50mm tyres?
Downside being, you have to use plenty spacers on such a long spindle.

Even weirder are the offerings of Pass Quest, Senicx etc. to me, because they only offer 8bolt/3bolt chainrings with either 0mm or 3mm offset - which does not work on the "standard" dub wide cranks they were made for - because it shifts the chainline to either 50.5mm or even 53.5mm - MTB territory.

What am I getting wrong here?
A 46T/48T aero 1x chainring is clearly made for either gravel or road, so it should adhere to Srams 6mm standard offset. But no aftermarket product does?!

How do you Guys combat this? Am I getting my numbers wrong? Or are you just forever suffering from suboptimal chainline? :'(

[Mokora]

I am suffering - trying to understand the topic of optimal chainline / chainring Offset.

Here is my current understanding:

Mounting 50mm tyres to this frame, I will have to opt for a chainline of at least 47.5mm to clear the tyre, but getting any bigger the drivetrain becomes exponentially more inefficient.
So you really try to hit that sweet spot. Doing so with any AXS XPLR crankset is easy, taking either newer E1 wide / or older D1 wide and changing the 2x chainrings to any AXS or XPLR 1x model, because the offset is the same across those two groupset families - 6mm.

Now the confusing part: If I want to opt for any 3rd party cranks / aero chainring the standards get thrown around like crazy. Seemingly there are only either 45mm cranksets, or 49.7mm chainline cranksets - which is crazy wide, even for shimano grx. To combat, you could then put a 3mm offset chainring on those, making it an effective 46.7mm - close enough to clear 50mm tyres?
Downside being, you have to use plenty spacers on such a long spindle.

Even weirder are the offerings of Pass Quest, Senicx etc. to me, because they only offer 8bolt/3bolt chainrings with either 0mm or 3mm offset - which does not work on the "standard" dub wide cranks they were made for - because it shifts the chainline to either 50.5mm or even 53.5mm - MTB territory.

What am I getting wrong here?
A 46T/48T aero 1x chainring is clearly made for either gravel or road, so it should adhere to Srams 6mm standard offset. But no aftermarket product does?!

How do you Guys combat this? Am I getting my numbers wrong? Or are you just forever suffering from suboptimal chainline? :'(

There are 6mm offset offerings (like this 46T from wolftooth https://r2-bike.com/WOLF-TOOTH-Kettenblatt-Aero-Road-Gravel-Direct-Mount-Drop-Stop-B-1-fach-SRAM-8-Loch-schwarz?iso=DE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22594505661&gclid=CjwKCAjwuePGBhBZEiwAIGCVSy56LOV_-vM3OmIB50RSCZE-liIyYMc-dogZK5t-nait7jrRJrlUmxoCRE8QAvD_BwE)

But most AliX models are all either 3mm or 0mm.

[Julian3000]

Size recommendations: My height is 1,80m and inseam is 84cm. I thougt getting the M frame but my current bike has a similar geometry in the front and I would like to get a lil lower stack-wise. I have rather longer arms and maybe I can get away with S and a longer stem…

Any people here with the same issues?

Since the frame is pretty similar to the Ridley ASTR, they are also on the Ridley side of sizing. So it is usually a size down than other brands. I am riding a M Frame on my Ridley Helium, with 187 and 89 inseam and I will also order a M Velobuild frame. The frame has a very racy geometry for a gravel bike, with a pretty long reach, keep that in mind. There are some pretty good sites for comparing different frame sizes, like https://www.bike-stats.de/ they also have the Aero Grav listed. Hope that helps :-)

[geramonta]

I'm in the process of building my bike, and the small cogs are making a lot of noise around the cassette, not the derailleur. I don't know if it's the cassette or the chain.

My setup consists of a Senicx PR3 crankset with a 42-tooth Goldix chainring with a 0 mm offset and a 49.7 mm chainline. The cassette is a Goldix MTB for a 12-speed 10-51-tooth XD freehub mounted on an XDR freehub with a 1.85 mm spacer behind the cassette. The chain is a stock SRAM GX 12-speed chainring and a GEX wheeltop derailleur.

Can you tell me what it could be? Is this normal, or do I need to change something?

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7tbQw9ZkT-M

[Mokora]

I'm in the process of building my bike, and the small cogs are making a lot of noise around the cassette, not the derailleur. I don't know if it's the cassette or the chain.

My setup consists of a Senicx PR3 crankset with a 42-tooth Goldix chainring with a 0 mm offset and a 49.7 mm chainline. The cassette is a Goldix MTB for a 12-speed 10-51-tooth XD freehub mounted on an XDR freehub with a 1.85 mm spacer behind the cassette. The chain is a stock SRAM GX 12-speed chainring and a GEX wheeltop derailleur.

Can you tell me what it could be? Is this normal, or do I need to change something?

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7tbQw9ZkT-M

On paper you should need a 3mm offset chainring, but technically you should get more trouble on the big cogs currently, so ymmv. Chainline is a funny thing.

[geramonta]

On paper you should need a 3mm offset chainring, but technically you should get more trouble on the big cogs currently, so ymmv. Chainline is a funny thing.

It seems to me that it's the Shimano Grx chain line. The best thing would be to put a 3mm offset to improve the performance of the upper sprockets and not have them so diagonal. But the sound is in the lower ones when the chain is straighter, which is why I'm surprised.