Assisting Force AF01

[akito]

•   Any reports of the same mismatch?
•   Or is this simply not an issue?? I have inserted the busing and held the derailleur on the frame, there is still enough enough gap around the derailleur direct mounting clamp…

Hello Motosato,
I also experienced a problem fitting with the SRAM xplr 13-speed rear derailleur. I was unable to measure the frame dimensions accurately.
But I had to have the assembly checked by four different professionals, none of whom were able to fix the problem. It was impossible to adjust the derailleur properly without there being a shifting problem either on the first gears or on the last gears. Micro-adjustment couldn't change anything. I contacted Sram about it, but they weren't very helpful.
I tested it with another derailleur and it works just fine.
Perhaps the frame leaves little room for error... But this was a very strange situation.
Here's a photo, just in case. I'll take more precise measurements when I get the chance.

[Dreadz]

Hi Folkes,

I was wondering why a lot of you choose the SSL frame over the regular? From research T1000 rides harsher in all cases and it isn't as durable if a crash should occur.

The SSL is only 150g lighter, Is it worth the extra money?

From my research T800 in the regular frame seems more suited for the purpose of a gravel bike.

[motaro1989]

The combined frame + fork weight difference should be 200g.

I chose the SSL for the same reason people buy S-Works frames - I wanted the best option, and in this case the price difference isn’t that big. The SSL version is one of the lightest gravel frames on the market, and knowing myself, I would have regretted it if I had bought the heavier version.

I don’t believe the difference in harshness is noticeable, nor that one frame would fail in a crash while the other wouldn’t.

Here are some impressions after my first longer ride:
For front end comfort I’m using 70mm Redshift stem, and I’m very happy with how comfortable the bike is.
Seatpost comfort is great.
I’ve adjusted the handlebar position and replaced the big, ugly top tube bag with a smaller one because the rattling was terrible. Unfortunately, the smaller bag doesn’t fit my phone.
160mm cranks are a perfect fit for me.

I once saw an MTB marketed as fast, agile, sharp - and that’s exactly how I would describe this bike.
Also, no toe overlap issues. 

[Dreadz]

Thanks for you reply.

I'm leaning towards the SSL

[Motosato]

Hello Motosato,
I also experienced a problem fitting with the SRAM xplr 13-speed rear derailleur. I was unable to measure the frame dimensions accurately.
But I had to have the assembly checked by four different professionals, none of whom were able to fix the problem. It was impossible to adjust the derailleur properly without there being a shifting problem either on the first gears or on the last gears. Micro-adjustment couldn't change anything. I contacted Sram about it, but they weren't very helpful.
I tested it with another derailleur and it works just fine.
Perhaps the frame leaves little room for error... But this was a very strange situation.
Here's a photo, just in case. I'll take more precise measurements when I get the chance.

My mentioned “problem” turned out not to be as critical as I initially thought. The “paint-free area” requirement is actually somewhat out of spec when compared to the SRAM requirement drawings (see attached document), but so far I have not experienced any issues while riding the bike.
The marked width of 12.5 mm was more or less within the correct range when I measured it on my frame.
The Full Mount derailleur design allows a certain degree of frame inaccuracy, since the relative position between the derailleur and the cassette is largely independent of small frame deviations. That’s why the Full Mount design principle is such a clever engineering solution and almost eliminates the need for manual derailleur adjustment. There is a chance that your derailleur is out of spec... Chain length correct?

[Motosato]

This is my first (gravel) bike build ever, so maybe I’m overthinking things a bit. What’s your impression of the general frame quality compared to large OEM frame sets? The price-performance ratio looks very good (I’m a composite engineer in the aviation sector, so yes… I tend to look at things a bit too closely).
That said, when I look at the wall thickness at the canvin aleous handlebar tube end, I’m not entirely sure I want to bomb down rough gravel at high speed if I can’t even mount the right lever properly (see attached pictures).
I stopped tightening the RH lever clamp bolt at 6 Nm (using carbon paste between clamp and bar). The lever is still slipping, which doesn’t exactly boost confidence.
Now I’m wondering whether the RH tube (if the wall thickness variations continue internally like at the visible tube end) might have suffered some local damage or even slight delamination. The small cracking noise I heard while loosening the bolt for readjustment didn’t exactly calm my nerves either. However, when doing a full push-down load test by hand on the handlebar, there is no noise or cracking, it feels solid and stable.
Maybe I’m just being overly sensitive — or maybe my engineering brain refuses to switch off.
Any thoughts?

[Motosato]

Putting all doubts aside --> Preview of my beauty:

[Lanfi]

This metallic finish is really beautiful...how is it called?

[Motosato]

I let my self inspire by the rose backroad (green goldish mix). I don't have any colour code.

[GravelDomi]

After months of planning, my gravel build is officially complete 

AF01 SSL frame, fresh LightBicycle wheels, and 45 mm tires.
The whole setup comes in at 7.9 kg, as pictured, exactly as I hoped.

I’ve managed two 50 km rides this week—weather permitting in Belgium—and I’m honestly blown away.
It’s not just light and hyper‑reactive; it smooths out rough ground beautifully and feels incredibly forgiving.
Exactly the riding profile I dreamed of.

A couple of pictures below.

[6speed]

This is my first (gravel) bike build ever, so maybe I’m overthinking things a bit. What’s your impression of the general frame quality compared to large OEM frame sets? The price-performance ratio looks very good (I’m a composite engineer in the aviation sector, so yes… I tend to look at things a bit too closely).
That said, when I look at the wall thickness at the canvin aleous handlebar tube end, I’m not entirely sure I want to bomb down rough gravel at high speed if I can’t even mount the right lever properly (see attached pictures).
I stopped tightening the RH lever clamp bolt at 6 Nm (using carbon paste between clamp and bar). The lever is still slipping, which doesn’t exactly boost confidence.
Now I’m wondering whether the RH tube (if the wall thickness variations continue internally like at the visible tube end) might have suffered some local damage or even slight delamination. The small cracking noise I heard while loosening the bolt for readjustment didn’t exactly calm my nerves either. However, when doing a full push-down load test by hand on the handlebar, there is no noise or cracking, it feels solid and stable.
Maybe I’m just being overly sensitive — or maybe my engineering brain refuses to switch off.
Any thoughts?

A cracking noise seems suspiciously like delamination, but Google is telling me the lever torque should be 6-8Nm, which is within spec.  What does Assisting Force say?

As for the variations at the end of the bar, measure the tube wall thickness with calipers.  I have a carbon seatpost that looks like that on the end and it's just tapering within the last few mm.  The wall thickness is consistent.

[mixmax]

what's the tire clearance like for 50mm+ wide tires?

[eddiecycle]

The small cracking noise I heard while loosening the bolt for readjustment didn’t exactly calm my nerves either. However, when doing a full push-down load test by hand on the handlebar, there is no noise or cracking, it feels solid and stable.

Brake lever clamps (especially Shimano) can make a popping/cracking sound when you're tightening or loosening them sometimes. The clamp itself is a somewhat uniquely shaped "nut", washer, and a metal band, and the parts often make that sound as they settle into new tension amounts. Fingers crossed that's the sound you're hearing and not the carbon itself.

[daforce84]

I let my self inspire by the rose backroad (green goldish mix). I don't have any colour code.

I really like the color! Did they paint it? or you?

If they painted it, can you please ask them for the paint code information and share it?

[6speed]

I am preparing to build up an AF01-SSL frame using flat bars and am looking at my headset options.  Has anyone used anything other than the headset that came with the frame?  The bearings look decent but the top assembly sits a good distance from the frame.  It would be great to have some sealing.