LTK266-D-SL, race frame, 680g, <800g w/paint & metal parts (M), fits 35mm+ tires

[stepahin]

First-time poster. This is my second bike from Long Teng, the first being the LTK 268 (Thank you @Serge_K for the recommendation). The LTK 266 handles noticeably differently from the 268. The bike went together fairly easily, I only had to drill the hole for the front derailleur cable, as it was too small.

Bike:
https://imgur.com/a/w9Ajdv1

Yeah! Congrats on the awesome build, man! Could you take a photo of the drive side, using your phone's 2x...5x lens, landscape orientation, from waist level not head height, just a basic bikeporn-photo-rules. It'll be great for the first post gallery if @Sakizashi doesn't mind adding!

———

I also found a few builds photos while researching the Chinese internet:

[Sakizashi]

First-time poster. This is my second bike from Long Teng, the first being the LTK 268 (Thank you @Serge_K for the recommendation). The LTK 266 handles noticeably differently from the 268. The bike went together fairly easily, I only had to drill the hole for the front derailleur cable, as it was too small.

I am having an issue with the top cap, it's rubbing on the frame when riding. I am using the LTK provided bearing and an LTK handlebar with their provided metal top cap and spacer. The provided bearings appear to be the correct size and Alisa has confirmed that too. I've ordered shims to hopefully remedy this issue -- any additional pointers are greatly appreciated!

LTK266-D-SL:
LTK HB09 Handlebar
Elite Wheels
LT-WOO ER9 3.0 + 105 parts
Selle Italia SLR Boost Saddle

Bike:
https://imgur.com/a/w9Ajdv1

Top bearing:
https://imgur.com/a/N3AtYhi

Does the spacing here look correct? My 268 had much less spacing.

Is it OK if I add your photo to the gallery?

Regarding the headset. For reasons I won't bother getting into it's common for older IS bearing bikes to use a 7mm thick bottom bearing and an 8mm top one. When FSA and Deda released their systems that used IS52 bearings top and bottom, they switched to 8mm thick bearings for both top and bottom, while Token and Acros switched to 7mm thick bearings top and bottom. Most western brands went with the former, with a smaller number going with the latter. However, many Chinese OEMs initially missed the memo and went with 7mm bottom and 8mm top bearings. IDK exactly what the mixup is, but it's a common mistake: these factory-direct frames still come with cheaper, mixed-thickness headsets, while the frame designs have largely switched to ACR or DCR compatibility.

Shims should fix the problem. They should go on top of your C ring. If you need some in a pinch, the Delrin dub crank spacers can be cut to fit and work really well. Check to make sure your headset is tight and holding preload.

[stepahin]

It seems I've finally figured out why one UD matte isn't like another. They call both options UD matte, but in reality, the second option is "transparent Black matte". It seems to them that if you don't specifically ask for clear UD matte without any black paint, they might give you this transparent Black matte (2). Moreover, even on the unpainted version, they still touch up some seemingly especially messy (in their opinion) areas with paint, like the dropouts and the area to the right of the BB on image 2 (they look strange, as if they were blurry, retouched, and sloppily edited in photoshop BUT it's painted spot), and theoretically, you can ask them not to do this and leave all the beauty as is.

hmm this looks different. Maybe some black toner was added to the second photo to make the color more solid more uniform? I would like to get the first option, the one above, where the carbon is visible, along with the imperfect surface (beauty! I like it!) and the material joints.

Alisa:

yes , they're different matte finsih , in the first picture , there's no any black paint except the joints , the UD weave can be seen very clearly . But in the second picture , there's black paint , we call in transparent Black matte finsih , the UD weave can be seen Vaguely , we can do the painting for you according to your demand .

Ok, the investigation is closed, I will stop bothering you with this topic here, seems like hardly anyone cares.

[contraptions]

It seems I've finally figured out why one UD matte isn't like another. They call both options UD matte, but in reality, the second option is "transparent Black matte". It seems to them that if you don't specifically ask for clear UD matte without any black paint, they might give you this transparent Black matte (2). Moreover, even on the unpainted version, they still touch up some seemingly especially messy (in their opinion) areas with paint, like the dropouts and the area to the right of the BB on image 2 (they look strange, as if they were blurry, retouched, and sloppily edited in photoshop BUT it's painted spot), and theoretically, you can ask them not to do this and leave all the beauty as is.

Alisa:


Ok, the investigation is closed, I will stop bothering you with this topic here, seems like hardly anyone cares.

My raw finish reveals the surface to be very clean indeed.  If you like the look of raw carbon, I'd get it cleared (matte or otherwise) in a heartbeat.

[BeeMC]

me too, my frame is shipped now! cant wait..

Same for me! Let us know if you ever make them.

[Eddy-haideli]

FMCR266-2025

Discount code for the frame.

https://tideacebike.com/collections/disc-brake-frame/products/fm-cr266-ultralight-road-bike-frame

Thanks

[TidyDinosaur]

FMCR266-2025

Discount code for the frame.

https://tideacebike.com/collections/disc-brake-frame/products/fm-cr266-ultralight-road-bike-frame

Thanks

Maybe also sell it without the handlebars? 38cm minimum is just too wide for a lot of people I guess.

[BikerJens]

FMCR266-2025

Discount code for the frame.

https://tideacebike.com/collections/disc-brake-frame/products/fm-cr266-ultralight-road-bike-frame

Thanks

Are the bigger frames going to come back in stock soon?

[benquick]

Are the bigger frames going to come back in stock soon?

I don't think XL and XXL are being made, unless someone makes a bulk order which would warrant producing the mold for these sizes as well. That's at least my understanding about how this works.

Just opened this topic to ask a question about sizing too: I am 184cm (185cm on a good day) with 86 cm inseam. Is anybody else of similar size and ordered the frame in size L? I currently ride the Velobuild VB-R-177 in size XL (with 100mm stem length), and to be honest, one of the reasons I am switching is also because the bike feels too long and a little bit uncomfortable. I think going to the size 56 with the Spcycle R088 (and also the SL8 according to Specialized online fitting tool) would fit me really well, but I am not sure whether the size difference compared to the LTK266-D-SL (in L) would be too large.

For anyone interested in what this means in terms of numbers, here are the geometry charts of relevant sizes:
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/spcycle-r088-2025-56,longteng-ltk266-d-sl-2025-l,longteng-ltk266-d-sl-2025-xl,velobuild-vb-r-177-2021-xl/

I know that a lot can be done with saddle height, the amount of headset spacers and the handlebar stem length, but only to a point when it looks to too ridiculous to be ridden outside. What do you all think?

[klrdd]

Just opened this topic to ask a question about sizing too: I am 184cm (185cm on a good day) with 86 cm inseam. Is anybody else of similar size and ordered the frame in size L?

I am 183cm with an 85cm inseam. I ride a size L with the stem slammed and a -10 degree, 130mm stem + 380mm width bars.
I came to the LTK266-D-SL from a bike with the same Stack/Reach as the Spcycle R088(56) you linked. The change I made for this new fit was going from 120mm stem to 130mm stem. However, one thing I'm still figuring out is saddle position. LTK only comes with zero offset seatpost, and I was on a -15mm offset before. I'm experimenting with more aggressive forward positions now, taking advantage of the zero offset (I had the seat slammed forward on previous bike). Haven't found the ideal yet. Don't feel cramped on the bike, and my arms are relatively long. You have to like long stems like me and patrick lino tho.

hope this helps.

edit: forgot to add, but personally I could never see myself on an XL like the velobuild you also link in geometrygeeks. Too long of a frame, too long front-center. I like the slightly smaller more compact frames and then long slammed stem. But in my friend group (many of whom are between 5'11 and 6'2", ex-rowers and other college athletes) the preferences are pretty mixed between 56 and 58 and dont seem to correlate as close with height and inseam as I would expect! It's so personal.

[benquick]

I am 183cm with an 85cm inseam. I ride a size L with the stem slammed and a -10 degree, 130mm stem + 380mm width bars.
I came to the LTK266-D-SL from a bike with the same Stack/Reach as the Spcycle R088(56) you linked. The change I made for this new fit was going from 120mm stem to 130mm stem. However, one thing I'm still figuring out is saddle position. LTK only comes with zero offset seatpost, and I was on a -15mm offset before. I'm experimenting with more aggressive forward positions now, taking advantage of the zero offset (I had the seat slammed forward on previous bike). Haven't found the ideal yet. Don't feel cramped on the bike, and my arms are relatively long. You have to like long stems like me and patrick lino tho.

hope this helps.

edit: forgot to add, but personally I could never see myself on an XL like the velobuild you also link in geometrygeeks. Too long of a frame, too long front-center. I like the slightly smaller more compact frames and then long slammed stem. But in my friend group (many of whom are between 5'11 and 6'2", ex-rowers and other college athletes) the preferences are pretty mixed between 56 and 58 and dont seem to correlate as close with height and inseam as I would expect! It's so personal.

Hey, I saw your previous post on sizing in this topic, and thanks for describing your experience again. It's really difficult as I want something that handles similarly to my VB-R-177, but is shorter, which might be completely contradictory. In addition, I have limited experience with different geometries, and there are multiple factors I am considering overall. I hope you don't mind if I ask you a few more questions, as you seem to know what you want:

• How would you describe the difference in ride feel between having a long vs. a short frame? I want to imagine in what way I am going to feel different depending on whether I choose LTK266-D-SL vs. R088 compared to my VB-R-177.
• What kind of tradeoff are you, personally, trying to balance as you are moving the seat? More comfort vs. aero? Are you keeping the stem length and headset height the same as you experiment?

Upon checking the first post for your build, what worries me right now is that my seatpost would be sticking slightly more out than in your build, I would probably not ride the handlebars as slammed as you -- right now I use 15mm of spacers on my VB-R-177 -- and also not have a stem that is as long. I have to think about whether this would be weird to me, as it feels like the whole bike would look way more "upright". There are some things about bike geometries that I still don't understand, but I hope I will get to the bottom of this eventually.

[klrdd]

• How would you describe the difference in ride feel between having a long vs. a short frame? I want to imagine in what way I am going to feel different depending on whether I choose LTK266-D-SL vs. R088 compared to my VB-R-177.
• What kind of tradeoff are you, personally, trying to balance as you are moving the seat? More comfort vs. aero? Are you keeping the stem length and headset height the same as you experiment?

1. I've only ridden on a missized race bike frame a few times. I don't think I can advise you on how you will feel on a longer vs a shorter reach frame -- which will also mean different stacks and other geo changes. There are so many factors beyond height and inseam, like torso/arm length, flexibility, how many spacers, what your preferred arm/elbow angle is, what bar width you're going to use (relative to shoulder width)...i could go on and on. As you mentioned it's different if you are adding spacers. I recommend using a website like www.bikegeocalc.com/ and actually inputting all of your current measurements and components and then mapping them onto the (possible) new frames, factoring in the new components you would have, such as a different bar-stem setup. You could replicate your current fit, at least. In terms of how changes to that fit will make you feel -- I can't tell you anything from here on the message board, and even with more info I'm not a bike fitter in the least 

Why I go for smaller frame is partly wanting a lower stack and more seatpost - 58 usually have higher frame stack than I want. I like that pro look, too, with the long stem -- it's an aesthetic thing. And I don't feel cramped once I get the long stem, so why go bigger? Sorry for this rambly answer, but I'm really not a bike tester or all that experienced with different frames, I've just ridden my friends' bikes a few times and gravel race bikes with long reach and shorter stem to compensate (e.g. BMC kaius) and those experiences have generally confirmed my preferences for a road setup.

2. Just experimenting with ~5-10mm forward. It's trendy to be more forward and over top of the BB these days. I also moved from 172.5mm cranks to 170, so I wonder if that gives me some room to play with. I'm keeping the front end the same (can't change it without major expense anyways).

edit: one thing -- my LTK266-D-SL still has a lot more seatpost that could be exposed without getting close to the minimal insertion, so don't worry about that.

[benquick]

You might not realize it, but just describing the reasoning behind your choices helps a lot -- even though I am slightly taller and have different preferences. When not being sure how changes are reflected in the final position on the bike just hearing experiences from other riders is helpful as it highlights the properties of the bike fit that might be worth paying attention to.

For example, what you say about your reasons for going with smaller frames makes me think that I would prefer a larger size. I think the slammed handlebars and a 110mm stem length is the maximum I want to go with, and I am also not a big fan of seat posts sticking out too much -- I guess an overall balanced look is something I like.

[klrdd]

You might not realize it, but just describing the reasoning behind your choices helps a lot -- even though I am slightly taller and have different preferences. When not being sure how changes are reflected in the final position on the bike just hearing experiences from other riders is helpful as it highlights the properties of the bike fit that might be worth paying attention to.

For example, what you say about your reasons for going with smaller frames makes me think that I would prefer a larger size. I think the slammed handlebars and a 110mm stem length is the maximum I want to go with, and I am also not a big fan of seat posts sticking out too much -- I guess an overall balanced look is something I like.

just a note -- you wouldn't have a slammed bar on a smaller frame, whereas I need a smaller frame to get the lower stack I want, which would not be physically possible on (most) XL frames. But I get your point on the aesthetics, and I think in the morning haze i misspoke a bit. Fit is more important than that, and I do not decide on my seat height or stem length because of how it looks (it's a kind of aesthetic payoff to "look like the pros")...I do it for optimizing comfort, efficiency, and aero position. more seatpost also means more compliance.

[benquick]

just a note -- you wouldn't have a slammed bar on a smaller frame, whereas I need a smaller frame to get the lower stack I want, which would not be physically possible on (most) XL frames. But I get your point on the aesthetics, and I think in the morning haze i misspoke a bit. Fit is more important than that, and I do not decide on my seat height or stem length because of how it looks (it's a kind of aesthetic payoff to "look like the pros")...I do it for optimizing comfort, efficiency, and aero position. more seatpost also means more compliance.

Yes, of course, I understand. I probably also wouldn't think so much about the aesthetics if I had a frame already and I would have to make it work by changing the handlebars and seat height, but now that I am building a new bike, I want to check as many boxes as I can.