Author Topic: LTK266-D-SL, race frame, 680g, <800g w/paint & metal parts (M), fits 35mm+ tires  (Read 383214 times)

Sakizashi


Since you want gravel/endurance ride bike why wouldn't you choose Lightcarbon: LCR018-D over this frame? I am in the same situation as You and comfort/ more tire clearence/ aero/ maintaining speed in this case is more important to me than less bike weight since i will not use this bike on climb.

This bike has race-bike geometry. The handling and body position are different.

For a rider capable of using this bike's geometry, the aero difference is huge compared to something like the LCR018 and would easily overshadow any frame aero benefits (i.e., wouldn't surprise me if it were 10x). Besides, neither this bike nor the Light Carbon has been aero tested, so no one knows which is more aero anyway.
« Last Edit: May 22, 2026, 08:48:10 AM by Sakizashi »

Sakizashi

Finally took delivery of my xxl frame  :).
Just unpacked it and thrown the frame on the scales. 861gr with fd/rd hardware.

Awesome. I think this will be the first XL or XXL build on here. Can't wait to see it!

CycOps

Finally took delivery of my xxl frame  :).
Just unpacked it and thrown the frame on the scales. 861gr with fd/rd hardware.
That weight is for black carbon matte finish, right?

hahel

That weight is for black carbon matte finish, right?

I went for the carbon matte clearcoat, no black pigments in the clearcoat.

siwyyo

This bike has race-bike geometry. The handling and body position are different.

For a rider capable of using this bike's geometry, the aero difference is huge compared to something like the LCR018 and would easily overshadow any frame aero benefits (i.e., wouldn't surprise me if it were 10x). Besides, neither this bike nor the Light Carbon has been aero tested, so no one knows which is more aero anyway.


shhhh right now I am a bit confused what to choose. Maily because  LCR018-D with front derailleur will fit 38mm tires only. I was wondering with 40 but it just can handle 1x shifting and I would build 2x. Would i feel much difference between 35mm(this frame max tire clearence than 38mm LC)?
 So i never had any better bike than my current corratec superbow world cup from 2005 which I use as a roadbike. Kinda funny but never had budget and also it was never a problem for me to just have fun with cycling. Last week I did 250km on it with 2.0 mtb tires mainly on road but mostly I did short ride 30-60km (90-95 on road,5-10% forrest,gravel). As beginner i did a lot of mistakes such as i bought bike 1 size too big so i ended up with too big bike with cutted all bridge pads so needed to buy new bridge with 45up degrees to ride comfortable.
So as you said you would be suprise if this could be 10x more aero than LCR018-D then what would you suggest to buy.


Vobluda

At 188cm tall and 90cm inner leg I am looking into XXL frame. With Stack 601 and Reach 401 I think it would work better for me then XL with to me only 580 stack. Any thoughts please?

Sakizashi


shhhh right now I am a bit confused what to choose. Maily because  LCR018-D with front derailleur will fit 38mm tires only. I was wondering with 40 but it just can handle 1x shifting and I would build 2x. Would i feel much difference between 35mm(this frame max tire clearence than 38mm LC)?
 So i never had any better bike than my current corratec superbow world cup from 2005 which I use as a roadbike. Kinda funny but never had budget and also it was never a problem for me to just have fun with cycling. Last week I did 250km on it with 2.0 mtb tires mainly on road but mostly I did short ride 30-60km (90-95 on road,5-10% forrest,gravel). As beginner i did a lot of mistakes such as i bought bike 1 size too big so i ended up with too big bike with cutted all bridge pads so needed to buy new bridge with 45up degrees to ride comfortable.
So as you said you would be suprise if this could be 10x more aero than LCR018-D then what would you suggest to buy.

The outdoor aero testing I do is not a gold standard type of anything and it’s specific to me. However, the aero differences between bikes that you can notice IME come down to position. Being able to keep your front end narrow and stable, elbows tucked in is worth a lot of watts. Being able to get your back into the flattest position you can, likely worth a lot of watts.

That said, I cant tell you that you will be able to make use of the potential difference between the LCR018-D and the LTK266-D-SL. Nobody but a bike fitter can do that.

As someone who does take advantage of position differences (and the LTK is actually not aggressive enough for a pure road bike for me) the difference between my custom road bike and the LTK “test” bike is not that different than the difference between by custom road bike and an SL8 or a Dogma F12. Does that make the LTK fast? No, it means that the resolution of position and fit things like keeping my elbows tucked in drown out the impact of tube shapes.

If you just want a fun bike to ride, I would just buy whichever one you like the look of best. After all riding the bike is what matters.
« Last Edit: May 24, 2026, 11:07:16 AM by Sakizashi »

Sakizashi

Is this the right one?

https://r2-bike.com/FSA-Steuersatz-NO55R-1-1-8-zu-15-ACR-3-mm-mit-Expander-matt-schwarz?iso=DE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22594505661&gbraid=0AAAAAD3I0_Zrhu1ssn2eFB7T5bVwu60i4&gclid=Cj0KCQjww8rQBhDjARIsAE43KPO7mrs8hbVS12FaUKpGECA0qupsiJtfL4dj5fv4gvTyjNQhKQNkrToaAmPREALw_wcB

And this Spacer kit?

https://www.bike-components.de/de/FSA/ACR-Spacer-Kit-p88117/

Have bought the Lightcarbon HRB17 handlebar.

Seatpost Dustcover: dont find a shop where its available - can somebody Help?

This is the right thing?

https://www.goldsprintshop.com/Giant-Staubkappe-waterproof-fuer-D-Fuse-Sattelstuetze

Yes, that’s the right headset. If your LC bar hasn’t shipped yet, just ask for their ACR adapter and you should be set. No additional spacers needed.

hahel

Initial assembly of my xxl frame is done, done a weight weenie build on a budget. 6.9kg as pictured, no pedals or bar tape, rigged for komfort with plenty of spacers right now
For reference I'm 193cm tall with an 93cm inseam and fairly flexible.

hahel

At 188cm tall and 90cm inner leg I am looking into XXL frame. With Stack 601 and Reach 401 I think it would work better for me then XL with to me only 580 stack. Any thoughts please?
Im 193cm with an 93cm inseam and went with the XXL, if you done a bike fit or have a bike that you are comfortable on take your (effektive) stack and reach parameters and look at the geometry charts. There's a few online comparison tools available which simplify the process, e.g. geometrygeeks.

GravelMaxxer

Initial assembly of my xxl frame is done, done a weight weenie build on a budget. 6.9kg as pictured, no pedals or bar tape, rigged for komfort with plenty of spacers right now
For reference I'm 193cm tall with an 93cm inseam and fairly flexible.

Your build looks great! I’m buying this frame whenever I am convinced about the type of paint I want to get, also in size XXL (2 meters tall, on the upper end of the maximum seatpost extension). I would love to hear your feedback on how it rides!

siwyyo

The outdoor aero testing I do is not a gold standard type of anything and it’s specific to me. However, the aero differences between bikes that you can notice IME come down to position. Being able to keep your front end narrow and stable, elbows tucked in is worth a lot of watts. Being able to get your back into the flattest position you can, likely worth a lot of watts.

That said, I cant tell you that you will be able to make use of the potential difference between the LCR018-D and the LTK266-D-SL. Nobody but a bike fitter can do that.

As someone who does take advantage of position differences (and the LTK is actually not aggressive enough for a pure road bike for me) the difference between my custom road bike and the LTK “test” bike is not that different than the difference between by custom road bike and an SL8 or a Dogma F12. Does that make the LTK fast? No, it means that the resolution of position and fit things like keeping my elbows tucked in drown out the impact of tube shapes.

If you just want a fun bike to ride, I would just buy whichever one you like the look of best. After all riding the bike is what matters.


I can see that ratio(stack to reach) in smaller size - (LTK is 1.37 in S size and LCR is 1.43 in 50size) are much more than in bigger (in sizes 54 are mostly equal LRC 1.45 and LTK - 1.48) size so probably I will ended up with LCR018-D.

jamez

Crashed my bike , so decided to try the LTK266. Alisa was very helpful and said it would be done and shipped soon. (size L, transparent glossy blue)
Still a bit sceptical about the seatpost. It seems very wide and non-aero, and that bulky ritchey clamp is kind of a pity as well. Same goes for the seatpost clamp solution - not the best design I think, but again hopefully OK.
Ordered a 55R low stack headset and hopefully will 3D-print some adapters to get a nice transition to my stem. Going with semi-integrated with the brake hoses running open under the stem, was my plan.

Was there a STL-file for di2 battery holder? Went through the posts but couldn't find it.

bikesurfer

Crashed my bike , so decided to try the LTK266. Alisa was very helpful and said it would be done and shipped soon. (size L, transparent glossy blue)
Still a bit sceptical about the seatpost. It seems very wide and non-aero, and that bulky ritchey clamp is kind of a pity as well. Same goes for the seatpost clamp solution - not the best design I think, but again hopefully OK.
Ordered a 55R low stack headset and hopefully will 3D-print some adapters to get a nice transition to my stem. Going with semi-integrated with the brake hoses running open under the stem, was my plan.

Was there a STL-file for di2 battery holder? Went through the posts but couldn't find it.

The seatpost clamp has been problematic for me. I ordered a raw frame and painted it myself. The fit of the raw seatpost was very sloppy. I sanded the inserted section of post with 80 grit and applied an additional 4 coats of clear to add volume. Even then the 3 piece clamp did not have enough travel to bind the post effectively. My fix was to add a piece of .004 brass shim stock between the frame and the clamp effectively making it thicker. This, along with exceeding the printed torque limit to 12Nm, seems to be holding.
« Last Edit: May 27, 2026, 07:25:44 AM by bikesurfer »