LTK266-D-SL, race frame, 680g, <800g w/paint & metal parts (M), fits 35mm+ tires

[oker_s]

Yeah, there is some grip tape available, and I don't think my current setup is unsafe. According to Alisa, LTK actually paints that textured area, which explains why the height can vary a bit between batches. My saddle height is only about 5–10mm above the texture, so the clamp still has enough purchase. My main concern is that my sister also uses the bike occasionally.

She sits about 3.5cm lower than I do (I know, the frame is technically too big for her!), and I wanted a second seatpost so she doesn't damage the current one by clamping it on the smooth carbon. For now, I've used some electrical tape and plenty of carbon paste on the clamping surface.

Regardless, I’d love to have a spare seatpost. It makes it much easier to test new saddles without losing my original position, and I usually like to have backups for all my bikes anyway—I just forgot to add one to the initial order! But honestly, $40 for shipping a single seatpost is a bit steep. If anyone in Germany is ordering soon, let me know

[Halfshark]

Has anyone had trouble getting the headset tight? Should I have used the crown race?

[sh]

Has anyone had trouble getting the headset tight? Should I have used the crown race?

The headset alisa gave me had a too short compression ring, or the wrong bearings. I ended up swapping them for a different set of bearings, with a smaller chamfer so they sit higher.

[cLs_elite]

Has anyone had trouble getting the headset tight? Should I have used the crown race?

Yes, I am having trouble as well. I am using the two bearings that were delivered with the frame etc., along with the C-ring that came with my handlebar. I still have a bit of play.

I think my compression plug might be sitting slightly too high, so I will cut the steerer tube a bit shorter and see if that fixes the issue. If not, I will get the FSA No.55R, which is recommended here in the sub by several people. It is just annoying that I have to reroute everything through the handlebars again, but yeah, what can you do.

You do not need to use the crown race that came with the headset, I think it is unnecessary.

Otherwise, have a look at this post to identify the issue
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3781.msg38021.html#msg38021

[Sakizashi]

If I remember correctly. The headset supplied by LTK is a low-cost generic headset used by a number of low-priced Chinese frames, as it offers a couple of different C-Ring fitment options.

Given that this frame has an 8.7mm bore depth, you can fit your choice of FSA, Deda, Cane Creek, etc., upper bearings, as long as you use the correct 52mm (or 51.8mm) x 40mm x 8m 36/45-degree lower bearing; you should use those. It will minimize the need to replace the headset bearings in the future, and the track record for these generic headsets is really bad in terms of fit and preload retention. I personally recommend the FSA No55R LS, but I am happy to assist if I can. Some parts come with C Rings and covers, and it can be more cost-effective if you ask around first.

For example, if you are buying Deda Superbox V2 stem, it comes with a C Ring and headset cover, so all you need are the correct bearings: 52mm (or 51.8mm) x 40mm x 8m 45/45-degree upper bearing and a  52mm (or 51.8mm) x 40mm x 8m 36/45-degree lower bearing.

[cLs_elite]

If I remember correctly. The headset supplied by LTK is a low-cost generic headset used by a number of low-priced Chinese frames, as it offers a couple of different C-Ring fitment options.

Given that this frame has an 8.7mm bore depth, you can fit your choice of FSA, Deda, Cane Creek, etc., upper bearings, as long as you use the correct 52mm (or 51.8mm) x 40mm x 8m 36/45-degree lower bearing; you should use those. It will minimize the need to replace the headset bearings in the future, and the track record for these generic headsets is really bad in terms of fit and preload retention. I personally recommend the FSA No55R LS, but I am happy to assist if I can. Some parts come with C Rings and covers, and it can be more cost-effective if you ask around first.

For example, if you are buying Deda Superbox V2 stem, it comes with a C Ring and headset cover, so all you need are the correct bearings: 52mm (or 51.8mm) x 40mm x 8m 45/45-degree upper bearing and a  52mm (or 51.8mm) x 40mm x 8m 36/45-degree lower bearing.

FSA ACR No.55R
Would this one work? It says upper: 52mm x 42mm x 7mm  45/45 and lower: 52mm x 40mm x 8mm 36/45

https://www.bike-discount.de/de/fsa-acr-no.55r-1-1/8-1.5-is52/28-6-is52/40-steuersatz-fuer-integrierte-kabelfuehrung

[simo8891]

FSA ACR No.55R
Would this one work? It says upper: 52mm x 42mm x 7mm  45/45 and lower: 52mm x 40mm x 8mm 36/45

https://www.bike-discount.de/de/fsa-acr-no.55r-1-1/8-1.5-is52/28-6-is52/40-steuersatz-fuer-integrierte-kabelfuehrung

I am using this headset on my bike. Works perfectly.

[Sakizashi]

Yes. That one will work great.

To do the build from that you will want to use:

• Upper bearing (the one with the 42mm ID)
• Lower bearing (the 40mm ID)
• C Ring (part marked H2630a)

Additionally if your handlebars are ACR compatible or if you are going to use an adapter you want to use the headset cover. You need to use a compression plug, but with this frame you do not need to use the one supplied by FSA if you prefer a different design. The round silver split ring is a part you do not need to use.

[Minai64]

This sounds like a crank preload problem. Potentially caused by the BB not being installed tightly enough. As you ride the bike, the BB should tighten, this would cause the preload to decrease, allowing the spindle to move laterally. That squeak is potentially the sound of it moving under load.

You don't need to pull the crank to fix this, but I would to grease or preferably apply anti-seize to the BB. Installing them dry seems like a good way to encounter galling later on. Make sure to torque it down tight, too. I don't use a torque wrench on my BBs (I prefer the open-style wrenches to sockets), but the spec is usually 35-50 Nm. You should aim for the lower end if you are using grease or anti-seize.

I’ve only just had the chance to ride the bike again, but the issue seems to be gone now!
I followed your advice re greasing the BB threads. The ZTTO tool didn’t make it easy to remove the BB (but it came included with it - free!) and I reinstalled the crank making sure not to skimp on the preload adjuster tightness. It’s still hand tight and I’ll monitor for noise in the following rides. Thanks for the tip!

[MARIOVL]

Well, I've finally been able to take the bike for a spin.
It's the Permeants 09, painted transparent red. I found it quite fast, but I'm coming from a steel frame. The riding position is comfortable, not too racing-oriented.

[hahel]

Any one been in contact with LongTeng/Alisa recently?

I placed an order for an XL frame mid December and got info to expect production in 2.5months.
It's now 3 months since i placed the order so i mailed Alicia begining of this week to check status of my order but i havent recived any reponse.

[bikesurfer]

Any one been in contact with LongTeng/Alicia recently?

I placed an order for an XL frame mid December and got info to expect production in 2.5months.
It's now 3 months since i placed the order so i mailed Alicia begining of this week to check status of my order but i havent recived any reponse.

I just received shipment notification and a tracking number from Alisa on 3/16 for my size S. Just landed in Louisville today.

[alexgaignard]

Hey everyone, just wanted to drop some thoughts now that I’ve put 1,000km on the frame.

First of all I want to say I'm really enjoying the bike. Coming from an alu gravel bike it feels super fast ! Climbing is much more easier, I feel like I can hold 35kph easy on a flat road whereas before it felt like I always had to push, now with this bike it feels like it's holding the speed much more.

Bike is also very comfortable, did a little weekend trip with it and even after 140k I felt good.

Only downside I found is that the paint is quite thin, the top tube bag rubbed a little on the top tube and there is some scratch marks.

As far as mechanicals, the frame has been super reliable, no seatpost slippage, no disc rub, no weird creaking or anything. Just had an issue with the crankset but not related to the frame.

Would 100% recommand the frame to anyone, as a first time builder, assembling process was easy, and there is no troubleshooting to do even after set up as it just works.

[Sakizashi]

@alexgaignard, @Halfshark, @MARIOVL i hope its ok that I added your frames to the 1st post Gallery. Let me know if you want me to remove them.

We are starting to get a nice mix of finishes and configurations that show what we can build with this frame. It really is an interesting platform for some great builds. Very biasedly, though it takes some work to order and get a headset separately, etc, I think this is still the best mix of features for an all-rounder at its price point, as you get a frame only marginally heavier than the lightest out there, that rides and handles well for $800-$950 (USD) delivered. Plus, it has UDH and cyclocross-level tire clearance! Hard to beat IMO.

[Re:Entry]

Hello,

I’ll be receiving my frame in the next couple of days. Could you please confirm that this bottom bracket fits:
https://c-bear.com/products/bottom-bracket/threaded-bottom-bracket/t47-internal-shimano/

I’ll be using a Shimano Ultegra crankset.

Thank you very much.