LTK266-D-SL, race frame, 680g, <800g w/paint & metal parts (M), fits 35mm+ tires

[Takiyaki]

Im curious as well. Im not worried about how its going to ride, it's an upgrade over my first 2 bikes and outside of my weight Im not a demanding rider. Will be curious to hear how it is to people who are more particular. I will prob do a Youtube video on it once it is built, seems like nobody has made anything for it.

[bedampft]

I see that you've crankset Magene Teo with powermeter Geoid...
On my current bike, I have the Magene PES P515 crankset, and on the new bike, I'd like to put the Magene TEO. Could I transfer the Magene power meter to the TEO crankset and buy a Geoid or Thinkrider power meter to install on the Magene PES crankset?

Yes. Geoid PM is just the old Magene PES505. Same interface as the 515. Thats was also the reason I took the TEO crankarms.

Please expand, because people here have said it rides like a giant tcr and that's historically the gold standard of bike for the mountains. So what's not to like?

I've had about 15 Giant TCRs in the last 10 years. Rim, Disc, as well as a few cheap ones for winter riding and a lot of SL versions. The 266 being discribed as a TCR like bike is what made me interested in it.

At the time I loved my TCRs and how I build them. But my fit changed of the last 2 years. Running 165mm cranks, sitting more forward, 360mm dropbars. I tough, maybe I can fit myself on this dated, but familiar geomtry again, but the old ways don't work for me anymore. Especially when fitted with the same modern parts as on my other bikes. As soon as the road points up a bit, I'm losing momentum. Even on steep climbs, and I love me some steep climbs, with more than 16% or even 20%+ the 6,3kg 266 is slower and need more effort than my other bikes with 6,8kg or even the Aerobike with 7,1kg.

The 266 feels like a very light endurance bike for me, wich is nice for the slow social rides with friends, but not what I was after when buying it.
And sadly enough: I'll also sell a new Gen 9 TCR SL frameset now because of this. No point in keeping it in storage for the future.

Now I'm looking for a lightweight frame with long front center, steep seatangle, and long reach.

[klrdd]

This is interesting. The geometry change you're describing - long front center, long reach, steep seat tube angle - is something ive only seen with the progressive aero bikes. The exception would be the new ridley climbing bike, which has a 76 degree seat tube angle across sizes and w longer front center https://www.cyclingweekly.com/products/we-dont-believe-in-the-one-bike-for-everything-philosophy-ridleys-6-2kg-falcn-rs-officially-breaks-cover

For what its worth, in my size L, the LTK geo is very close to the 2026 Lab71 in size 56. I guess the current year lab71 is an endurance bike now 

I am very curious how this new progresive ridley climbs, because like you i have moved to a forward position with short cranks. Also in the process of converting my old rim brake bmc to an even more progressive position - got an aftermarket zero offset seat post, swapped a 120/-17 stem for a 130/-7, and 165mm cranks (have always run narrow bars and saddle slammed forward) - so it will be interesting to see, with that setup, how it climbs compared to the longteng.

Sounds like it's less that its not like a tcr and more that you've moved on from the staid, established geometry in favor of the new progressive trend, which is only now reaching climbing type frames. Makes sense, and I'm curious too!

[Serge_K]

Interesting. So it does ride like a TCR but you want something from the future.
What frames are you looking at and why? It's an interesting evolution and I'm somewhere on that journey myself.
I'm trying to solve for high stack, large tyre clearance (35C), geo from the future, aero, and affordable. It's tough

[Sakizashi]

I am very curious how this new progresive ridley climbs, because like you i have moved to a forward position with short cranks. Also in the process of converting my old rim brake bmc to an even more progressive position - got an aftermarket zero offset seat post, swapped a 120/-17 stem for a 130/-7, and 165mm cranks (have always run narrow bars and saddle slammed forward) - so it will be interesting to see, with that setup, how it climbs compared to the longteng.

Sounds like it's less that it's not like a TCR and more that you've moved on from the staid, established geometry in favor of the new progressive trend, which is only now reaching climbing-type frames. Makes sense, and I'm curious too!

Road.cc has a perspective: https://road.cc/feature/ridley-falcn-rs-2-0-first-ride-review

Given the title: "A climbing masterpiece: A first ride review of the all-new Ridley Falcn RS 2.0 lightweight climbing bike" and the slug, which calls it "A game changer for riders"--which was probably the original title that was changed by editorial, you can guess the reviewer was a huge fan. Worth noting that the bike had a 36cm bar, but the reviewer has been a fan of narrow bars for a while, so that was already accepted, and I am guessing he is well adapted to the change. I 100% prefer my custom Ti road bike to my 266 for anything that is a hard effort. It is a progressive road geo, not that different than the Ridley Falcon 2.0- which is the closest comp to date. The main difference is that I went with a 75-degree STA to keep the flexibility to use a 25mm setback post for a more or less traditional saddle position, vs. the custom 15mm forward offset one I am currently using. The saddle position with a zero offset post would be most natural on a 76-degree STA like the Ridley. I also have about 2mm lower BB drop, 5mm shorter stays, and a similarly small difference with more reach. It's close enough that I would probably buy the Ridley off the shelf rather than get this geo made again if something bad happened to that bike.

For me, the progressive geo handles better, is more aero, and I climb faster. That said, as one of the louder voices advocating for this geo for nearly 5 years now, I've tried to keep that perspective off this thread, since it hasn't been relevant to the review of the 266 SL until now.

I like my 266 SL for what it is to me: a TCR like bike I can ride with CX tires / do some CX and commuting. It's so versatile for everything from long endurance rides on mixed surfaces to easy singletrack to hopping in a paceline.

If LTK or Permeants is reading this thread: while I would be happy to share the geo charts I have developed, I think taking the deflection-based development process you used for the 266 SL and applying it to the Falcon 2.0 geometry would make a very nice bike. If you could make the HT narrower in the center and 2-3cm deeper. That would be nice. Also, a slightly deeper/more aero seat tube would be nice too, but wouldn't make that change if it affects ride quality.

[waltthizzney]

anyone know what light thru axels to order? anything nice on Ali?

do any of these work?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005612065745.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.2.68386gIq6gIqkV&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=70ca704c-9131-4072-9dec-6e4e68131f21&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.40050.354490.0%2Cpvid%3A70ca704c-9131-4072-9dec-6e4e68131f21%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238109%231935&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22647%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22recommend%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21CAD%2123.79%2123.79%21%21%2116.56%2116.56%21%4021033b3317926554032517539e0d13%2112000034286132015%21rec%21CA%21178805033%21XZ%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A7bb94c48%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005005612065745%7C_p_origin_prod%3A

[klrdd]

anyone know what light thru axels to order? anything nice on Ali?

Yeah, I got the following HEPPE ones, plus a few washers, on the suggestion of someone in this thread a few pages back:

L118 M12x1.5 TL10.5
L167 M12x1.0 TL22

plus a few thru axle washers measuring M12x2mm (flat) . I can't remember at the moment but I think I only used the washers on the front thru axle? it was one or the other--just for nice spacing

[Serge_K]

Yeah, I got the following HEPPE ones, plus a few washers, on the suggestion of someone in this thread a few pages back:

Do NOT buy from the HERPES shop, what they sell is no good.

[dmt4500]

Do NOT buy from the HERPES shop, what they sell is no good.

I second that. Do not get herpes. Worst decision ever.

[butizzle]

Somebody interested in a frameset? Selling mine in size Large and UD glossy finish (the silver stripes are only vinyl wrap). I'll include a new FSA ACR headset, as well as the Sram DUB BB, or a new Ztto for 24mm spindles, and the lightweight Heppe thruaxles. Bike works great, no scratches or paint chips. Still assembled, but I strip it in the next days. Shipping within the EU. Send me a PM if interested.

You have mail (PM)

[Takiyaki]

Man the parts cannot come in soon enough. Current bike fit is proving to be too aggressive and of course I built it with integrated bars. Never again! XMCS wheels shipped Monday; Tufo Comtura Prima 32s on the way, I think all I need to finish the build are thru axles and a bottom bracket. Stoked!

[Takiyaki]

What are the specs for the thru axles on these? And any recs for decent titanium ones?

[hahel]

What are the specs for the thru axles on these? And any recs for decent titanium ones?

I think you will find the specs of the truaxles in this thread.
i've been down this weight weenie rabbit hole my self an i ended up with aluminum thru axles that are drilled thru and has waist machined out, i think the pair was 46gr. To have any (substantial?) weight saving from ti-axles you'll need source axles that has less material than the alu ones in the right specs, i gave up the quest and went with alu ones mentioned above
I wanted a little gold bling and ordered:
- "Golden M12 1.5 168mm" for the rear.
- And used the front axle from a axle set for GIANT "Bicycle Thru Axle AD350 300 500 RT380 RS360 RS450 Threaded Through Shaft Boost 12mm Dirt Road Bike Hub Fork Rod Replacement Part"
But i had to cut off a few mm of the threads on the frontaxle with a hacksaw, since the lefthand side of the fork i closed and you need a precise fit

P.S
The heppe TI-axles mentioned in a post above isn't TI, just TI-anodized Alu axles but the sellers on ALi knows what sells
D.S

[simo8891]

What are the specs for the thru axles on these? And any recs for decent titanium ones?

Not titanium, but these are the axles I got based on comments much earlier in this thread. I used a 1 or 2mm spacer on one of the axles, I think the rear, as it was slightly too long. I copied what someone else said in this thread and it worked perfectly.

Anyhow if you can find titanium with specs similar/the same as these you should be good to go. I used the axles from Swift Cycling Store on AliExpress, the specs:

Front- L117 M12x1.5 TL12
Rear - L168 M12x 1.0 TL 19

[andyitslit]

Figured I'd toss a small update on how it's going with my LTK.
About 1000 miles in, just completed a Century 100mi Ride with 6700ft of elevation, the LTK has had 0 issues and is a dream to ride. Very happy with my build and this purchase.