Author Topic: LTK266-D-SL, race frame, 680g, <800g w/paint & metal parts (M), fits 35mm+ tires  (Read 382206 times)

klrdd

new chinertowner here --

i just ordered this frame in a large, green transparent glossy.
It checked all the boxes when it came to geo, weight, tire clearance, aesthetics for me.

With all the froth over aero bikes and the anticipation of a new model coming soon, I noticed that used Specialized Aethos with great componentry were also available where I am (USA) but I decided to do a full build from this frame, exactly to my spec. I plan to build this LT frame up with new SRAM Force, some farsports or equivalent wheels with ~25mm internal width (not sure on carbon vs steel spokes), and a pandapodium-tier integrated cockpit.

I'm coming from a BMC Teammachine SLR01 2015 -- full dura ace 11s rim brake with ENVE rims /chris king hubs, sub UCI without pedals. I love that bike so much but the 25mm tires are just untenable on the roads here in the northeast US, and I have been thinking of going disc+wider clearance for a while, for a forever bike I can travel with everywhere.

Will see how it goes and show it here in the thread (likely in a few months).

nick82

what size frames did people order and how tall are they? i never purchased a bike just going by the geometry chart so its pretty meaningless

sh

what size frames did people order and how tall are they? i never purchased a bike just going by the geometry chart so its pretty meaningless

I got a size S and I am 170cm tall. Have not received the frame yet, but this was based on the geometry of my 54 CAAD 8 which i fitted to fit smaller.

HOWEVER, height is essentially meaningless. You can be the same heigh as me, but with longer arms and legs, and a shorter torso, and you might fit a size M instead. or vice versa. You can measure your current bike to have a starting point for geometry.

Sakizashi

what size frames did people order and how tall are they? i never purchased a bike just going by the geometry chart so its pretty meaningless

what size frames did people order and how tall are they? i never purchased a bike just going by the geometry chart so its pretty meaningless

The M is a fairly typical race bike geometry for a medium/54 bike (or an S if you are looking at a Canyon). It's close to SL8 Tarmac, but with a 1 degree slacker HTA so it will feel more stable. It is an identical fit to the Seka MR. Not that different than an M Madone.

The S is a typical race bike geometry. Matching closely to the Tarmac, Madone, V5Rs, etc.

I am ~169cm-170cm and bought a size M, but I have a specific component plan in mind for mine because I tend to fit my bikes long and with narrow bars. A size S would have been the right fit otherwise.

klrdd

what size frames did people order and how tall are they? i never purchased a bike just going by the geometry chart so its pretty meaningless

I'm 182cm and ordered a Large. Geo is very close to my BMC in size 56: same STA/HTA, same stack, just 4 mm shorter reach. I recommend using geometrygeeks or bikeinsights to compare with a bike you own or at least have ridden. Bikegeocalc can help you dial in the components aspect to see whether and how you might mirror the bike fit that works for you on this frame.

nick82

how do you compare a gravel to a race bike though? the reach is similar but the stack is a lot lower, i have the kaze stampede 54 in this link but looking back id probably buy the 52 if i was to buy it again https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/kaze-stampede-2024-52,kaze-stampede-2024-54,longteng-266-20xx-s,longteng-266-20xx-m,light-carbon-lcr018-d-2025-540/

i have some carbon wheels on order and they are taking forever so im tempted to get a new frame as well since i never ride offroad

Sakizashi

You might need a better reference before deciding if this is the bike for you. I suggest demoing or riding some road bikes to get a better feel if a bike fit is out of the question.

My road "race" bike is 30mm lower stack with the same length reach as the gravel race bike I use for events like Unbound. However, my fit reflects the ability to fold myself into a relatively long and low position on both bikes, which is only sustainable as long as I remain very fit. This is typical for people who race both disciplines or at least race on gravel and train on the road. The difference lies mainly in the primary aero position being on the hoods on the road and more mixed between the hoods and the drops on gravel.

I think it's more common for enthusiasts to go 20-30mm longer (including stem length) and 10-20mm lower on their "fast" road bikes vs. their gravel bikes.

In addition to the stack and reach, the LTK266 might also be a problem for you in terms of saddle position. Both the M and the S have a much steeper seat tube angle and no option for a setback post, so it will position you further forward. Further forward and lower will likely make you much more aerodynamic but will also put more weight on your hands unless you are a fit rider who can sustain a relatively high power output for your weight.

The LCR018 is an example of the "newer" endurance bike geometries that are super short, allowing the rider to sit upright and put most of their weight through the saddle. It's recycling the geometry that was used for women's bikes in the 2010s (like Pinarello's Easy Fit line) and is still used by Liv. If you can find a Giant/Liv dealer near you, the Liv Langma in a size L is the closest bike to the 540 LCR018, followed by the Giant Defy in Size ML. This type of bike is ideal for many people who want to undertake long rides and prefer a more upright riding position.

Hope this helps!
« Last Edit: August 19, 2025, 10:59:21 PM by Sakizashi »

Dark17

Hello Sakizashi,

How is your experience on riding this bike? Are you already riding it? I am interested on getting this frame since the geometry of S and M is typically a race bike but the design looks like normal compared to an all-around bike like R55D or LCR017D which are my choices. I'm looking to change my aero bike to an all-around bike because I live in a hilly area and I also want to use the bike for road racing (crits and local classics).

I also wanted to order one, but unfornoturaly neither XL or XXL are available at the moment through lacking demand.  :'(

Sakizashi

Hello Sakizashi,

How is your experience on riding this bike? Are you already riding it? I am interested on getting this frame since the geometry of S and M is typically a race bike but the design looks like normal compared to an all-around bike like R55D or LCR017D which are my choices. I'm looking to change my aero bike to an all-around bike because I live in a hilly area and I also want to use the bike for road racing (crits and local classics).

*sigh* no not riding it yet. I planned to get it done last weekend, but I didn't, so I'll wait until I get another costly metal print of my handlebar prototype in to finish it. Its staged to ship right now so might be this weekend.

klrdd

*sigh* no not riding it yet. I planned to get it done last weekend, but I didn't, so I'll wait until I get another costly metal print of my handlebar prototype in to finish it. Its staged to ship right now so might be this weekend.

Looking forward to the ride report! I have some questions about the metal parts you got to replace what came with the frame: For the seatpost hardware, you were able to use the aftermarket ritchey-style clamp from Niu Ju? I'm trying to figure out exactly what to order to replace the hardware with something lighter than can also work with 7x9 oval carbon saddle rails. Also, do you know what the thread pitch of the thru-axles is? I did order thru axles with the frame but plan to replace... Thanks for the help!

BeeMC

Looking forward to the ride report! I have some questions about the metal parts you got to replace what came with the frame: For the seatpost hardware, you were able to use the aftermarket ritchey-style clamp from Niu Ju? I'm trying to figure out exactly what to order to replace the hardware with something lighter than can also work with 7x9 oval carbon saddle rails. Also, do you know what the thread pitch of the thru-axles is? I did order thru axles with the frame but plan to replace... Thanks for the help!

Will report on the Niu Ju clamp next week as I am about to receive it, but hardware looks the same and screw is the same length. You can ask Alisa for a 7x9 saddle clamp just in case.

Thru axles are:
M12xP1.0 168.5mm, measured by me: 18mm thread length
M12xP1.5 116mm, measured by me: 10mm thread length

Couldn’t find similar lightweight thru axles… let me know if you find some

klrdd

Will report on the Niu Ju clamp next week as I am about to receive it, but hardware looks the same and screw is the same length. You can ask Alisa for a 7x9 saddle clamp just in case.

Thru axles are:
M12xP1.0 168.5mm, measured by me: 18mm thread length
M12xP1.5 116mm, measured by me: 10mm thread length

Couldn’t find similar lightweight thru axles… let me know if you find some

Thanks! The closest I could find to what you measured are from carbon-ti, and are a bit outside my budget for now.

for the fork thru axle, what you measured appears to line up with the colnago model:
https://www.fairwheelbikes.com/carbon-ti-x-lock-evo-x-colnago-thru-axle.html

for the rear, https://www.fairwheelbikes.com/carbon-ti-x-lock-evo-rear-e-thru-thru-axle.html - in 168.7mm length (17mm thread length).

Sakizashi

Looking forward to the ride report! I have some questions about the metal parts you got to replace what came with the frame: For the seatpost hardware, you were able to use the aftermarket ritchey-style clamp from Niu Ju? I'm trying to figure out exactly what to order to replace the hardware with something lighter than can also work with 7x9 oval carbon saddle rails. Also, do you know what the thread pitch of the thru-axles is? I did order thru axles with the frame but plan to replace... Thanks for the help!

I didn't order the Niu Ju clamp. Just went to look for it and it looks like its sold out on Taobao. My frame included hardware for both round and carbon saddles.

I tested the seatpost with Ritchey hardware, and it does fit; it's also a lot less fiddly than the one that comes with the frame. Unfortunately, it is also heavier.

Regarding the thru axle, it's 116mmx1.5 on the front and 168.5mmx1.0 on the rear. The rear is not a covered dropout, so basically, any UDH-compatible 1.0 pitch road/gravel thru axle should work. The Colnago thru axle won't work since you need a flat interface, not a tapered one. A Giant TCR-compatible thru axle should fit on the front, and if it's a bit long, you can get a 1mm flat spacer/washer. I had a set of thru axles from the Robert Axle project in my parts bin, and with a spacer it's not a problem, and the threaded portion is long enough.

BeeMC

I have seen these posted here before but don’t know if they’re any good…

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMu29Ov

Available in L168 M12x1.0 TL19, L117 M12x1.5 TL12…

Might be close enough?