Velobuild VB-R-368 Aeroframe

Started by neobiker, July 10, 2025, 04:03:01 AM

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w1ll337

Quote from: bastianb on February 22, 2026, 10:43:15 AM
Assembly is correct yes. Have you tightened the top cap enough to elaminate the play? Or is the fork still too long and you don't get bearing compression at all? Or you tightened the stem onto the fork before you tightened down the top cap?

Order: assembly everything, every bolt is loose
Tighten Compression plug, then tighten the top cap. Only then the stem or handlebar.

Quote from: Mühi on February 22, 2026, 10:55:11 AM
I had a similar problem when building the bike. Check the distance between your expander plug and the top cap. The top cap is very thick and easily collides with the expander preventing you from tightening the headset.

Thanks, everyone. I reassembled it and kept the clearance, based on the images below. Do you think I need to cut a little more so that the expander fits further into the fork?

Pistonbroke

Yes. It's gotta have a few mm between top cap and fork compression doohickey to tighten things down.

I know there are varying degrees of QC on these (and many other Chinertown) frames, but am I alone in thinking that's the reason we're able to buy them for a fraction of the cost of the big brands  :-X

Tobi

#587
Hello

I think you have to accept some compromises in quality. You should keep in mind that the price isn't comparable to an S-Works SL8. Furthermore, in my opinion, you should have some experience if you're going to take on a project like this—building up an inexpensive frame. Honestly, I think the weight is perfectly fine, and it's not a problem if it's a bit heavier. I think the frame is okay for the money. However, there are definitely some things that need adjusting or improving. That's something to keep in mind.

w1ll337

Quote from: Pistonbroke on February 22, 2026, 12:32:05 PM
Yes. It's gotta have a few mm between top cap and fork compression doohickey to tighten things down.

I know there are varying degrees of QC on these (and many other Chinertown) frames, but am I alone in thinking that's the reason we're able to buy them for a fraction of the cost of the big brands  :-X

I installed an additional 7.5 mm spacer below (I had to cut it slightly to allow the hoses to pass), and now it feels better, with minimal slack (video attached).

Next, I will cut the fork, but to do that it will be necessary to disconnect the hose and bleed the system again.

At the moment, I feel the handlebar slightly pulling to the right side. It may be because there is a bit more hose length on that side, which could be creating some tension and influencing the steering.


Tobi

Hi everyone

Does anyone here have a mount for a rear light that attaches to the massive ::) seatpost?

Unfortunately, the rubber straps aren't long enough to mount a suitable rear light. Thanks! ;D

mchaggis

Hi Tobi, I use a Cateye Orb on the rear. The rubber stretches enough to fit just fine even with the monster seatpost.  Unfortunately, no such luck on the front - I need to find a suitable small day light which can clip to the GoPro style mount under the computer.

Finiesta

Hi, Does anyone knows if there is any update regarding the T1000 carbon fibre mix in the new frames that was said few pages back?

Pistonbroke

I've not heard anything but am curious. I'll drop them a mail today and report back...

Joda55

Quote from: Finiesta on March 07, 2026, 02:03:40 AM
Hi, Does anyone knows if there is any update regarding the T1000 carbon fibre mix in the new frames that was said few pages back?

I emailed him a few days ago and apparently they won't start production until april and shipment first at the end of May!

Was going to wait for the updated version but went ahead and ordered one now instead, will ship in two weeks. 150 g heavier yes but then I will have two more months of riding  :D

Joda55

Had decided for the Mondince FM126 earlier but the ability to ride a more forward position on this bike made me change my mind.

Happy to have found a bargain used full groupset too: Dura Ace Di2 11sp for 400 EUR.
And aero drop bars with attachable TT clip-ons from a Lapierre Aircode DRS for 200 EUR.
78/65mm wheel combo from XMCS coming up :D

Will update with photos once I've put it together. Thanks for the help deciding!

Pistonbroke

Look forward to seeing the build!

Is 150g enough of a saving I wonder... Was hoping for more like 300g :-\

Finiesta

Its not only the weight savings but also if they add them in some areas it could make the bike feel better or worse becasue t1000 is stronger than t800

Pistonbroke

Very happy with the way it rides. No complaints about that :)

w1ll337

Quote from: Joda55 on March 07, 2026, 04:43:58 AM
Had decided for the Mondince FM126 earlier but the ability to ride a more forward position on this bike made me change my mind.

Happy to have found a bargain used full groupset too: Dura Ace Di2 11sp for 400 EUR.
And aero drop bars with attachable TT clip-ons from a Lapierre Aircode DRS for 200 EUR.
78/65mm wheel combo from XMCS coming up :D

Will update with photos once I've put it together. Thanks for the help deciding!
Did you order the wheels with the 16/18H or the 20/20H lightweight option?

I'm really curious to see this combination on this frame, because it's the same setup I'm planning to install, also with 5 mm spokes.

Joda55

Quote from: w1ll337 on March 13, 2026, 07:49:10 AM
Did you order the wheels with the 16/18H or the 20/20H lightweight option?

I'm really curious to see this combination on this frame, because it's the same setup I'm planning to install, also with 5 mm spokes.

No!
Should I have? Upon Peter's recommendation I chose the following setup:
D78CU-33/D65CU-33 T800 rims 24/24H
R280 hubs 24/24H 36T rachets TPI steel bearings center lock straight pull for 100*12/142*12 with Shimano HG driver
Sapim CX-Ray spokes
Sapim self-securing aluminum nipples

I don't know a thing about wheels. Extra spokes mostly unnecessary? My weight is 85+ kg.
I haven't paid yet so I could check if it's still possible to change.