Long Teng / Mondince aero frame FM126

[gemcxx]

Here are the scope pics. Everything in the scope was very clean and smooth, except you can see in the seattube and in the downtube, where the rivnuts were installed for bottle cages and FD hanger there is some fraying of the carbon layup (keep in mind this is zoomed in, compare the fray size to the rivnut which is prob 7.5mm) I used the Google and it seems this is normal and a "Sausage" Analogy, "no one likes to see how the sausage is made". Internal imperfections are often cosmetic and do not affect the safety of the ride. Nothing to worry about so long as:

1) Loose Rivnuts: If the threaded insert (rivnut) for the bottle cage spins or feels loose, it can wear through the carbon over time. (they are solid, no spinning etc)
2) Soft Spots: Press on the area around the bolts. If the carbon feels soft or "mushy," it may indicate internal delamination (layers separating). (there are no soft spots)
3) Expanding Cracks: Use a "tap test" with a coin. A sharp "tink" is good; a dull "thud" around the hole suggests deeper internal damage. (it all sounds the same)


Even though the google said it was okay, I was curious and so had a look inside my Factor LS frame. You can see the extra piece of carbon they have which prob prevents the fraying.

I sent the pics to Jack at Mondicne and he said it doesn't affect the frame stiffness/strength. And he said it is okay to share these pics. He said they will add extra 3k on future frames.   

Now to build it and see how it rides.

[gemcxx]

Overall experience has been great. Obvioulsy haven't rode the frame yet so tbd on that. 

[gemcxx]

Thanks for the insight, that’s really helpful coming from someone who actually rides the LCR018-D!
Here’s my dilemma, this would actually be my very first road bike. Originally I was leaning towards the LCR018-D for the more forgiving endurance geometry, which seems like the safer bet for a beginner.

But the more I read, the more I see people saying that modern aero frames like the FM126 aren’t as harsh as the old-school race bikes used to be, and that you can just set them up a bit more relaxed with spacers and a higher stem and adapt from there.

The idea of going straight to an aero frame and skipping the “buy endurance now, switch to aero later” path is tempting, and it also saves money and I’d only have to adapt once. But I genuinely don’t know if that’s realistic for someone who’s never ridden road before.

What was your experience like on the LCR018-D? And would you say the jump to something like the FM126 is manageable for someone starting out, or would you recommend building up on the endurance frame first? I know this is not necessarily the thread for that, so if needed you can PM me, thank you for the help.

You say you are a 'beginner'... I would go with the 'endurance' geometry. You can't really go wrong with the 18D or similar style. If you really get into cycling, you can make this a dedicated groad/gravel bike, and then get a aero road bike. That is what I have done. Not sure your athletic background etc., but if you are beginner, the aero isn't going to matter too much anyway until you start riding 35kph avg ride speed and above. For example, I have the Factor LS that I'ved used for 2 years now (after starting with a Giant Defy with 32mms). I have to wheelsets for the Factor, a 25mm deep with 40mm tire set for gravel/groad, and 38mm deeep with 28mm tire for road only. The Factor is a gravel race bike so geo is a bit more aggressive than the Defy, but its still not a 'road race' geometry , and is also not as stiff, has longer wheelbase, etc etc. I have the Factor LS in crit race at avg 39kph for 45min, and also 35kph avg for 75km rides. I don't NEED an aero road bike, the Factor LS can literally do it all, as could the 18D. 

[Leon1234]

Here are some pictures of everything that was included in the box, some close up of the facing and some outside shots showing the pearl finish. Weekend had some nice (though windy) weather so was out riding ahead of a spell of raining days now.

Did you specifically order the metall hardware in silver and gold or can that be customised (Silver/Gold/Black)?

[Ultramic]

Those internal photos don't instill alot of confidence.

[gemcxx]

Did you specifically order the metall hardware in silver and gold or can that be customised (Silver/Gold/Black)?

I did not specify could probably be customized.

[gemcxx]

Those internal photos don't instill alot of confidence.

That was my first thought... I'm hoping the google is correct. Any other threads on here discussing this? Should I ask for a replacement frame?

I just scoped my two other carbon frames (2019 Giant Defy Advance 2, and 2010 Specialized Robouaix S-Works SL3) and neither of them had that type of fraying from the rivnuts and were clean like the Factor. I'd hope the S-Works would be clean given its cost of $8k USD in 2011 (I didn't buy it new hehe).

 

[Serge_K]

That was my first thought... I'm hoping the google is correct. Any other threads on here discussing this? Should I ask for a replacement frame?

It looks bad but I really don't think it matters, the frayed bits look very small and it's not a light frame where every gram counts. 
I never looked inside my own frames for that, it's not too common to see such picturs. I suspect it's pretty common in frames, and I don't think we've ever heard horror stories from frame failure in this area. I haven't even heard of cage nuts becoming loose, to which id just say "fix back in place with epoxy and keep riding".

[gemcxx]

Here are the scope pics. Everything in the scope was very clean and smooth, except you can see in the seattube and in the downtube, where the rivnuts were installed for bottle cages and FD hanger there is some fraying of the carbon layup (keep in mind this is zoomed in, compare the fray size to the rivnut which is prob 7.5mm) I used the Google and it seems this is normal and a "Sausage" Analogy, "no one likes to see how the sausage is made". Internal imperfections are often cosmetic and do not affect the safety of the ride. Nothing to worry about so long as:

1) Loose Rivnuts: If the threaded insert (rivnut) for the bottle cage spins or feels loose, it can wear through the carbon over time. (they are solid, no spinning etc)
2) Soft Spots: Press on the area around the bolts. If the carbon feels soft or "mushy," it may indicate internal delamination (layers separating). (there are no soft spots)
3) Expanding Cracks: Use a "tap test" with a coin. A sharp "tink" is good; a dull "thud" around the hole suggests deeper internal damage. (it all sounds the same)


Even though the google said it was okay, I was curious and so had a look inside my Factor LS frame. You can see the extra piece of carbon they have which prob prevents the fraying.

I sent the pics to Jack at Mondicne and he said it doesn't affect the frame stiffness/strength. And he said it is okay to share these pics. He said they will add extra 3k on future frames.   

Now to build it and see how it rides.

I posted these pictures to Reddit to get some feedback. The most educated responses suggest its fine (See the attached image).

I'll ride it as planned and scope it again after like 1000kms.

[Leon1234]

Thank you for all the information. I will get in contact with them regarding colours etc. Alternatively i am still looking at the new lightcarbon aero frame.

[Ultramic]

I posted these pictures to Reddit to get some feedback. The most educated responses suggest its fine (See the attached image).

I'll ride it as planned and scope it again after like 1000kms.

Thanks for sharing this and going the extra distance to get other opinions. It provides us future buyers that extra confidence.

[Leon1234]

How long is / are the seatposts your ordered and what did you pay for the extra one. I think i will definitely need atleast a 35cm as i have a 78,6cm seat heigh (including the saddle).

[Leon1234]

I posted these pictures to Reddit to get some feedback. The most educated responses suggest its fine (See the attached image).

I'll ride it as planned and scope it again after like 1000kms.

Hi did you build up the bike yet? Also what size are you as you ordered the 56. I am 186cm with 89,7cm inseam and am debating between a 56 or 58.

[Tpower59]

Hi did you build up the bike yet? Also what size are you as you ordered the 56. I am 186cm with 89,7cm inseam and am debating between a 56 or 58.

It is the same geo as SL8 same height as you and 88 inseam
I have a 58 with 0 offset Seatpost : perfect

[Shayzzz]

Here are the scope pics. Everything in the scope was very clean and smooth, except you can see in the seattube and in the downtube, where the rivnuts were installed for bottle cages and FD hanger there is some fraying of the carbon layup (keep in mind this is zoomed in, compare the fray size to the rivnut which is prob 7.5mm) I used the Google and it seems this is normal and a "Sausage" Analogy, "no one likes to see how the sausage is made". Internal imperfections are often cosmetic and do not affect the safety of the ride. Nothing to worry about so long as:

1) Loose Rivnuts: If the threaded insert (rivnut) for the bottle cage spins or feels loose, it can wear through the carbon over time. (they are solid, no spinning etc)
2) Soft Spots: Press on the area around the bolts. If the carbon feels soft or "mushy," it may indicate internal delamination (layers separating). (there are no soft spots)
3) Expanding Cracks: Use a "tap test" with a coin. A sharp "tink" is good; a dull "thud" around the hole suggests deeper internal damage. (it all sounds the same)


Even though the google said it was okay, I was curious and so had a look inside my Factor LS frame. You can see the extra piece of carbon they have which prob prevents the fraying.

I sent the pics to Jack at Mondicne and he said it doesn't affect the frame stiffness/strength. And he said it is okay to share these pics. He said they will add extra 3k on future frames.   

Now to build it and see how it rides.

Hey, so did you ended up building your bike ?