SPCycle G028 new gravel frame with 57mm tires clearance

[tedzik3]

Yes, but he still put spacers on the axle. I asked him what size spacers he put in, but I didn't get an answer.

[Vaclav]

Tested it today. I have an alloy ThinkRider crankset with a power meter, measuring approximately 147 mm Q-factor. When I put Shimano R8100 46/36 chainrings on it, the small chainring almost touches the frame. With a +2 mm spacer on the DS, there is a comfortable amount of clearance, but I think +1 mm should also be fine.

These Chinese cranks have splines on the end of the spindle where the NDS crank arm is mounted that are about 5 mm longer than Shimano's, so it should be safe even if the NDS crank arm is not pushed all the way in. They also don't have the safety pin found on Shimano cranks.

[Matt P.]

Unfortunately, the Q Factor of a road crankset is too narrow. The chainrings will rub against the frame. You could theoretically add axle spacers, but only a limited number, which likely won't help. Before the frame arrived, I asked Spcycle about mounting a Shimano 105 crankset, and they replied that the frame was designed for GRX cranksets with a larger Q Factor.

Thanks for your feedback. The crankset I was planning on using was an old ultergra 6600 triple. I'm guessing the small chainring would clear without issue (and larger q factor). With this in mind, do you happen to know if this would be compatible? Thanks in advance.

[gbtidi]

I received my G028 yesterday, and have started to inspect / build it up.
The QC was reasonable: the BB and brake mounts were faced adequately, the headset bearing interfaces and fork were clean.

There are two issues I've found so far:

• The seatpost clamp wouldn't fit due to paint overspray and some excess resin. Without the seatpost clamp, a 27.2mm seatpost fit just fine, but as soon as the (fully expanded) clamp was installed, it was too tight to fit a seatpost. I removed a small amount of material with a dremel, and it's now a perfect fit.
• There are several small paint defects, from a hasty paintjob. These are fairly minor and for the price I paid I'll be able to live with them.

Frame and Fork Weight
My frame is painted in green metallic, and is a size large. The frame weighs 1271g with no accessories/hardware, and the fork weight 502g with an uncut steerer.

Chainring clearance for road cranksets
I've fitted a SRAM Force D2 road crankset (standard road / non wide) with a 44T chainring (with a 3mm offset, rather than the standard 6mm), and with a 2mm spacer there's plenty of clearance to the frame (±6mm).

I'll be building up with SRAM Force E1 shifters, SRAM Rival E1 XPLR 13-speed rear mech and SRAM Rival XPLR 13-speed 10-46 Cassette, and various components sourced from AliExpress (seatpost, saddle, stem, bars). I have a carbon wheelset from CSC, 32mm internal, 41mm external, 50mm deep, 54T Star Ratchet, steel spokes, 1450g.

I'm expecting a final build weight to be ±8.75kg, and will post pictures when it's complete.

[AlexMH24]

Hi everyone,
I'm having an issue with my tool compartment making a lot of rattling noise when I'm on the move. For context, I have about 1,000 km on it so far, and I usually carry a 1L bottle on top of the compartment.
Has anyone else experienced this? If so, did you do anything to fix the noise?
Thanks!

[FlorianS]

Hi everyone,
I'm having an issue with my tool compartment making a lot of rattling noise when I'm on the move. For context, I have about 1,000 km on it so far, and I usually carry a 1L bottle on top of the compartment.
Has anyone else experienced this? If so, did you do anything to fix the noise?
Thanks!

Does it rattle when the bottle is removed?
Have you tried carrying the bottle in the other bottle cage (spot)?

[AlexMH24]

Yes, I've tried that. When I remove the bottle it does make less noise, but it doesn't completely stop.
However, simply removing the bottle isn't a real solution for me, because there are times when I need to carry two large bottles on my rides. So, leaving that spot empty just isn't a valid option in my case.
Thanks for the suggestion

[FlorianS]

Took my G028 out for the first "real" ride yesterday.
My other two bikes are from Scott, an Addict RC from 2020 and an Addict Gravel from 2025. Both are much more race-oriented with a more aggressive geometry.
The G028 rides like a charm, very smooth, very solid, still quite fast. It is slower while cornering, but that is very expected with the different geometry. It was pure street / tarmac yesterday, so I couldn't really test any offroad capabilities. Sure, the 2.2" Dubnitals (Trail casing, not Race casing) aren't that fast on the Road (compared to my beloved GP5000 AS TR), but more than ridable.

I don't love the head tube / top tube intersection, looks kinda goofy. Not sure why they designed it like that, I do prefer the look from the Mondince FM376. I also do prefer the seat stay / seat tube junction of the FM376, but it's fine. I do prefer the downtube bottle cage mounts on the SPCycle, they're way too high on the FM376 in my opinion.

My hacked SRAM crankset × Shimano Derailleur drivetrain runs great, no issues here. I might upgrade to SRAM XPLR down the line, but so far I'm very happy with this setup.

The Rpantahi cockpit is really good, super clean looking, nice 360mm width, absolutely reliable. I just ordered another one for my Addict RC.

If you have any questions about the frame / bike, let me know!

[Matt P.]

Took my G028 out for the first "real" ride yesterday.
My other two bikes are from Scott, an Addict RC from 2020 and an Addict Gravel from 2025. Both are much more race-oriented with a more aggressive geometry.
The G028 rides like a charm, very smooth, very solid, still quite fast. It is slower while cornering, but that is very expected with the different geometry. It was pure street / tarmac yesterday, so I couldn't really test any offroad capabilities. Sure, the 2.2" Dubnitals (Trail casing, not Race casing) aren't that fast on the Road (compared to my beloved GP5000 AS TR), but more than ridable.

I don't love the head tube / top tube intersection, looks kinda goofy. Not sure why they designed it like that, I do prefer the look from the Mondince FM376. I also do prefer the seat stay / seat tube junction of the FM376, but it's fine. I do prefer the downtube bottle cage mounts on the SPCycle, they're way too high on the FM376 in my opinion.

My hacked SRAM crankset × Shimano Derailleur drivetrain runs great, no issues here. I might upgrade to SRAM XPLR down the line, but so far I'm very happy with this setup.

The Rpantahi cockpit is really good, super clean looking, nice 36mm width, absolutely reliable. I just ordered another one for my Addict RC.

If you have any questions about the frame / bike, let me know!

Congrats on the new build - that's a good looking machine. Can you tell me what wheelset you have here including depth?

[FlorianS]

Congrats on the new build - that's a good looking machine. Can you tell me what wheelset you have here including depth?

Thanks! It's an Elitewheels Aero+ Gravel wheel set with 45mm depth (32mm IW, 40mm EW)

Here are the build details:

Frame: SPCycle G028 Size S, metallic silver (#4) → UD carbon fade
Cockpit: Rpantahi 360mm × 90mm
Wheelset: Elitewheels Gravel Aero+
Tires: Continental Dubnital 55mm (RideNow MTB Tubes)
BB: SRAM DUB Wide T47 | 85.5
Crankset: SRAM Force XPLR Wide 165mm
Chainring: WUZEI 44T
Levers/Brakes: Shimano 105 Di2 (ST-R7170) / BR-R7170
Discs: Dura Ace RT-CL900 160/160
Derailleur: Shimano XT RD-M8250 SGS
Cassette: Shimano CS-M8100 10-45
Seatpost: Elita One 27,2mm × 350mm
Saddle: Syncros Belcarra R SL
Bottle Cages: Titan Ultralight (AliExpress)
Bartape: Zipp Service Course CX
Bolts: Wanyifa Titanium (AliExpress)
Frame Pouch: Tideace (AliExpress)

[tedzik3]

Hello. I have a Spcycle frame and I'm having a problem with my seatpost clamp. After a few rides, I noticed that the seatpost had sagged slightly. It turned out the seatpost clamp bolt was loose. Of course, I had previously tightened it with a torque wrench to 6nm. I retightened it to almost 7nm, and after one ride, I noticed it was loose again and needed to be retightened. Is the torque too low? Does anyone have any ideas?

[ncf]

I asked them and was told 6-8nm for seatpost clamp. Mine had been clicking as it slowly worked its way down into the tube at 6nm. I cinched it up a bit tighter and it hasn't moved again in a couple hundred miles.

[crazyravr]

Hello. I have a Spcycle frame and I'm having a problem with my seatpost clamp. After a few rides, I noticed that the seatpost had sagged slightly. It turned out the seatpost clamp bolt was loose. Of course, I had previously tightened it with a torque wrench to 6nm. I retightened it to almost 7nm, and after one ride, I noticed it was loose again and needed to be retightened. Is the torque too low? Does anyone have any ideas?

Remove, clean, apply lots of fiber grip and tighten to 7nm and apply blue locktight to the bolt.

[Lars1996]

Finally my got my frame setup, just ridden it once but very happy!

[Tijoe]

I am back home from my summer trip that included a couple of longer multi-day bikepacking rides.  Last night, I went downstairs and started planning how I want to build my matte black G028.   I installed the T47 BB 6+ weeks ago, and last night installed and shimmed up the RaceFace Carbon cranks I plan to use on this bike.   Then it hit me.   I need to settle in my mind which build approach to go with:   Either,  a 1X12 Wheeltop OX build, or a 2X12 Wheeltop TX approach.   (Not many riders I know are still building 2X gravel bikes.)

Which direction I chose drives weather I use Gravel drop-bars, or my favorite bikepacking carbon 22.2mm  mtb "H" drop bars.    I have been favoring using MTB hydraulic disc brakes because I love the better modulation and feel of mtb levers and stopping power, along with the single Wheeltop push-button pod, versus the traditional integrated shift-brake levers.   (Edit: I have a set of the Wheeltop mtb brakes, I want to test out, so they would be perfect for this gravel build.)

I have to make a decision because I am out of both spare "H" bars and gravel bars.  What is depressing, is that the price of the "H" bars are literally 2X the price of what I paid for my last set in 2024, and about 60% more expensive for the gravel bars I last purchased.

A sub set of complications is that having the cable routing through the headset complicates my build.  I am not too keen on using an integrated stem/bar combo.    Based on my recent configurations of how I like to build up my Bikepacking rigs, I like to use a second handlebar stem below the main handlebar stem, (instead of spacers).  The second stem mounts my custom cockpit module that holds my navigation cell phone, tent/air mattress/sleep kit, and an aero bar provision.   

I would like to try out and be able to configure the G028 as a bikepacker at some point in time to see how it rides compared to my SPCycle M05 frame.

- I am in the process of carbon rim selection and spoke selection, so I can build up a new set of wheels for this bike. (I have the hubs I plan to use,  Micro splined hubs straight pull spokes.)
- I purchased a RACEWORK Wireless Dropper Seatpost that I plan on using, so that is one less cable inside the frame.  (I hate the weight gain, but I am a fan of droppers on all my off-road builds.

This will be the first of, hopefully, 2 winter bike builds. I plan to make expensive purchases during the 11-11 sale.