Cable guides

[AkAlan]

Hi everyone, first post on the site. I've been getting a lot of great info here but have some questions.

Has anyone installed external cable guides on their frame that only has internal routing? I'd like to be able to easily swap brakes and drivetrains and internal routing would make that time consuming, especially with hydraulic brake lines. I'm looking at getting a CS-057 which only has internal routing. It seems like my options are-

1) Zipties, the least elegant solution and could potentially mar the frame but quick and easy. One of the drivetrains is singlespeed and not having the guides when I don't need them would be nice.

2) Jagwire stick on guides, I'll probably have to replace them every so often but the reviews say they do a decent job as long as they stick. They're made from aluminum so I can shape them to the frame. http://jagwire.com/products/v/Stick-On_Guides

3) Install bolt on guides. Invasive installation and could potentially ruin the frame! but also the most professional looking. I'd have to install Nutserts into the frame which means drilling some 7.1 mm holes. Then I would be able to use bolt on Ragley cable guides, I have some similar on my Yeti and they're great.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-rivet-nuts/=zs3w7k
http://ragleybikes.com/products/cable-guides/

Does anyone else have any experience with running external cables on a frame with out guides?

[MTB2223]

Has anyone installed external cable guides on their frame that only has internal routing? I'd like to be able to easily swap brakes and drivetrains and internal routing would make that time consuming, especially with hydraulic brake lines. I'm looking at getting a CS-057 which only has internal routing.

Are you serious ? It's so easy to use the internal routing.

Please take a look at the next youtube video:

That tool, Parktool IR-1, is every penny worth. It made it so easy to use the internal routing.
It's a expensive tool. And it's easy to make a DIY tool.
You need the following:
- two race brake cables ( http://www.mantel.com/trivio-remkabel-race )
- two small disk magnets (max 4mm OD) ( https://www.magnetenkopen.nl/winkel/neodymium-schijfmagneet-o4-hoogte-3-mm-houdkracht-%C2%B1-05-kg/ )
- one strong cube magnet.  ( https://www.magnetenkopen.nl/winkel/neodymium-kubusmagneet-12-mm-houdkracht-63-kg/ )
- some electronical shrink tube (don't know if I use the right words for this).

Glue one small disk magnet on the beginning of the race brake cable. Glue the other one on the beginning of the other race brake cable.After the glue dried, put some shrink tube arond the magnets (same as in the youtube video). And now you can use this to guide your cable through the internal routing.

Some pictures of the DIY tool: http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/diy-internal-cable-router-949091.html

[AkAlan]

I understand how to do it, the problem is being able to swap easily. The derailleur cables aren't that big of a deal, the bigger problem is the hydraulic lines. Bleeding brakes is a pain the butt and I'd like to avoid it as much as possible.

[MTB2223]

How often would you swap your hydraulic lines ? I never did since I build my chiner.
And bleeding brakes isn't that difficult.

[AkAlan]

This bike will be doing dual duty - a drop bar geared "gravel" bike and a flat bar single speed, it's replacing two bikes I currently own. The drop bar has mechanical discs and the single speed has hydros, ideally I'd like to be able to swap between the two within about an hour. I'm sure you have the best intentions with your advice, but I would much rather have the brakes externally routed and am just wondering if anyone else has any experience putting guides on a frame. Bleeding is time consuming and my braided stainless Hope brake lines look pretty cool so having them exposed is a plus. Internal routing doesn't offer much advantage other than aesthetics and external is much more practical for my application. Thanks for the advice, I appreciate the time taken to respond.

[RS VR6]

With the funky tube shapes, I'm not sure what type of cable guides you can strap to a frame. If you're really hard up...there are always velcro.

Here is one with external routing. http://www.hongfu-bikes.com/html_products/2011-29ER-Mountain-frame-226.html

Your other option is to run a cable disk brake like a BB7 or a cable actuated hydro disk caliper like a Juin Tech R1.

[SportingGoods]

I am using the Jagwire for my Reverb dropper post with success.

I actually also swap it frequently with a regular seatpost as I get one set with a "Trailgator" to pull my daughter. The sticky part is perfect, it will stick for ever. The other part (the clip) is a little worn out now that I have swapped it a lot but it still holds the cable. I get some replacement parts for that but I'll only replace the clip, not the sticky part when time comes.

I fully understand you don't want to route your brake line internally if you swap frequently! I would make no sense.

[Carbon_Dude]

Seems odd to me why anyone would want to swap back and forth between hydraulic and mechanical brakes.  I think everyone would agree when I say, just put on the hydraulic brakes, forget about swapping, and just go ride your new bike.

[bruto]

stick-on guides rule, AkAlan, just use them (and they last, but I guess a bunch of spare c-clips won't hurt)
might also want to put some protection tape on the frame around the guides, cause housing is gonna rub there
also, if you route them on top of the top tube, it allows you to put barrel adjusters in a very convenient location and it doesn't hurt that it's the straightest section of housing you're gonna have on your bike, which helps with the adjusters

[SportingGoods]

Seems odd to me why anyone would want to swap back and forth between hydraulic and mechanical brakes.  I think everyone would agree when I say, just put on the hydraulic brakes, forget about swapping, and just go ride your new bike.

CD, the point you miss is that you can't use a regular MTB brake lever on a drop bar

[bruto]

even swapping tires gets old quickly, let alone drop handlebars/cabling/brakes
I bought a CX bike and slicks thinking I'd have 2 bikes in 1
now I have a CX bike with 3 wheelsets, 5 sets of tires and am building another bike

just keep the 2 bikes, AkAlan - way easier to manage

[Carbon_Dude]

Either two bikes, or your main bike is a flat bar disc road bike.

[cmh]

While I think that the best plans for swapping parts will never actually play out in practice -- especially major swaps like AkAlan is talking about -- I do like having the option for external cable routing.

Yes, you can make a DIY tool to make internal routing "so easy to use" - you know what tools you need to make external routing so easy to use? None. It just is.

There is no benefit to running cables through the frame vs. a full-run of housing on the outside of the frame.

Know what's even easier than bleeding brakes? Not having to because you didn't have to part the lines to get the brakes on the frame.

Yes, internal routing looks clean. Super duper. That's the only benefit it offers.

[SportingGoods]

Agreed that the WAF to build 2 bikes at a time doesn't play for you. I suggest the following plan:
- Design and build one bike. A very good one, the one you want.
- Design your second complete bike. Buy parts for this second part that will mount on the first bike and on the second complete bike.

Sooner or later the only missing part you will need to build a second bike will be the frame. It will be easy then to just say to yourself/your wife "hey, you know, I get enough of swapping parts, I just need to buy a frame to get over that". So it's very important you keep the future second bike in mind as you buy parts.