Hi guy's I'm having trouble with bleeding the brakes, I've been trying in several different ways but I cant get the rear brake to it's full potential.

My guess is that it is air in the hoose under the crank, I've been whipping the handle, twisting the handle, tried to bleed the brakes according to shimanos guide, I've been trying to do it the traditional way as you do it on cars but I'm a not satisfied.

Is there anyone else that's been having the same kind of issues?

Lift your front wheel high enough that the crank, and the section of hose that goes under it, are higher than the rear caliper.  Leave it like this for a couple of days and the air will rise to the lever end.  If you are having trouble lifting the front wheel high enough then undo the rear caliber from the frame and let it hang lower to help with the height difference.  Otherwise just follow the shimano guide.

I will note that I have had an XT on the rear of my sons bike that presented problems for ages before it finally failed. It would slowly loose "bite" and the lever would very slowly get more and more spongey. Looked everywhere for signs of oil leaking out and could never find any. Then one day the seal on the piston failed. It was replaced and failed again some time later. So I replaced the whole lever assembly and the brake has been fine since. I suspect that there was a small manufacturing fault in the cylinder that allowed a very slow leak.

I expect a lot of people would want something like this as a down-country/short travel trail bike because of the TT and reach numbers.  Which means most would like to see the seat tube lengths shrink by about 30mm for every size in your geo chart for fitting longer dropper posts and lower standover.   You might run out of room for a second bottle cage, but you can move it under the downtube.

So you want a short travel trail bike not a lightweight xc race bike?

Make sure the stuff you have will actually be compatible with the frame you choose.

Follow up report, 2022 Lexon Spirit EMTB build.  Coming onto 1,600km of 70/30 off road use without issue, and that is after adding an air fill port for the rear shock, and a 5mm hole in same vicinity as part of an anti rotation device for the drive motor.  Two additional holes were added to the down tube for epoxied-in rivnuts to better secure 48v 17.5Ah battery.  I decided to stay with the 140mm of front travel on the X-Fusion 34 fork, acknowledging that the geometry calls for 120mm front with 100 rear.  Absolutely love the 67.2 head angle which reflects the trend toward slacker head angles on XC full sus frames.  I ordered and received a spare MY 2023 3-piece bell  crank assy for the rear sus just to have it, Lexon sent it for a 30 buck S&H fee. 

The good:  headtube cable routing, sweet geometry, cush air-flex ride helped by CF wheelset and CF bars, gorgeous paint job which I protected with 3M Rhino Skin, and last but not least, low cost-- as I basically threw existing parts onto an $1,075 frame (with decent shock, headset, and axles included).  The less than good:  rear triangle is a little flexy but tolerable, had to lathe-up improved spacers for for rear sus external linkage arms and replace damaged bearings, no metallic insert for NDS rear axle hole.

Just so I understand, did you take a normal Lexon Spirit and convert it to an E bike or do they make an E-bike frame?

It seems like a really cool frame but not quite ready for prime time. I don't like the fact that the rear triangle is flexy and you got to order it special and I don't like the idea you can't use a coil or a lot piggyback shocks because they don't fit. Just right there, I'm bothered

You only had to order it separately if you were in on the first group buy which was the first lot of frames that were manufactured and got into the hands of the public. Frames ordered now come with the revised rear triangle.  That doesn't change the other issues you mentioned nor does it excuse the poor customer service that left the beta testers having to buy a replacement rear triangle in the first place.

Now I've found that since the BB hole is not round the bearing race gets distorted and causes the bearings to drag and fail prematurely. I've decided to attempt a repair with carbon fiber and epoxy and an adjustable hand reamer. The blades on the reamer are 105mm long so I should be able to ream both sides at once and keep things lined up. The BB92 shell has to be 40.98mm to accommodate the 41mm BB.

How did you go with the repair?

did Tantan ever get back to you?

I like geometry, except seatstay angle. Lexons are oddly small in sizes?

I have always thought so.