• Headset is absolute trash, you can still see the bearings underneath what they call a "seal". Give this 1 ride in the rain and you will grind this down. I will replace those.
• The SL7 Compression Ring is not compatible for me. My fork had a seam on one side that made everything super stiff, i took the sandpaper out to remove the seam, but the ring was still too tight.
• The Small Chainring on the crank was rubbing against the frame. I had to get a shim to put it on the crankshaft of the drive side to give it some space. Scuffed the paint a bit..
• the SL7 Di2 Battery Grommet works. Specially at the bottom. I bought 2, so i would make sure the battery won't dangle with the top in the seat tube. Had to cut one down with a scissor so it would fit.
• Don't know if i can fix it yet, but the saddle isn't centered to the frame and points slightly to the right.. my OCD is triggered. But i haven't messed with the saddle clamp much, maybe there is a way
• The brake mount surfaces are not machined and need facing. One more trip to the bike shop.
• There was a small void in the carbon layer of my tube that i was able to see after i cut it down.
• The SL7 seatpost cover works great

I believe what @vTuga is ultimately asking is whether or not the fact the brake mount surfaces aren't faced, actually prevented the brake calipers from being properly aligned.

Are you using those flat adapters for 160mm rotors, or are you using 140mm, mounting the calipers directly on the frame?

I'm going to build my 168 with a SRAM Force AXS groupset, with a DUB crankset. What kind of bottom bracket would you choose? I was leaning towards the official Sram BB86 DUB BB, but I'm worried about the durability. Maybe I should go for a more premium BB, like Kogel, C-Bear or Ceramic Speed? What do you think?

Interesting. I didn´t know of Token. But from a quick search, I haven't found it for sale in Europe.

About the 24mm axles, I could try a Sram crankset with a GXP axle. I don't know if other options exist compatible with 12s sram axs groupsets.

Yeah I know, it would be the first upgrade I do. I just need to hold out a bit to find a deal on a red 46/33 or 48/35 power crank on ebay.


Headset question: the compression-ring of my headset ends up quite high, and as a result the headset cap does not sit flush with the frame (between 1 and 2mm gap). I've seen others talk about getting a less high bearing, but mine already measures 7mm. Does anyone know if I could find a less high compression ring? My google-skills let me down.