Hi All,
it's time to share my experience of building a mtb with as basis a IP-256SL. I try to keep this topic up to date.
I ordered my frame in April at Peter from XMIPlay. Because of production problems, the frame had a (big) delay. I didn't mind, because I'm not in a hurry.
The frame arrived last Friday in the Netherlands and is now waiting for customs inspection. >:(
I was looking for a white fork with a crownloc, but couldn't find one. I don't want a push/poploc system, so that would a no-go. So, I'm going for a black one.
Let start with my buildlist. All the weights are found on the internet. I'll weight them, when I've got all the parts.
Buildlist:
(http://s25.postimg.org/6182uu9fj/buildlist_v2.jpg)
History (date format: dd/mm/yyyy):
07/07/2014: Initial start of this topic
14/07/2014: Updated my buildlist with some actual weights.
<reserved>
Good work MTB. Look forward to seeing it complete !
Thanx. It's not for race, but just for fun (tours). And I want to know everything about the bike, so, the best way to learn it, is to build it by my own :)
Yeah, that's what was important to me too, MTB.. Was actually understanding the bike I was riding.. My last bike I didn't even attempt to adjust a derailleur, brakes, or anything else bc I was completely clueless about how any of it worked. My chiner, on the other hand.. I'm constantly making tiny adjustments that I feel comfortable making due to having built it and being very familiar with everything on it.
Build is looking sweet!
Good to hear that you finally got the frame! We're all eager to see it built up.
Quote from: Patrick C. on July 07, 2014, 12:49:12 PM
Good to hear that you finally got the frame! We're all eager to see it built up.
I think he hasn't got his frame yet.
I hope customs will go easy on you MTB2223..
My frame is also on its way to the Netherlands...
DOH! Need to read a little closer... At least they are shipping frames now.
Frame arrived today at my office. Just opened the package to take a quick look at the frame, but it have to much protection on it to take a quick look. I'll look after work.
The customs was 80 USD (attached invoice was 267 USD). >:( But that was a little bit what I expected.
(http://s25.postimg.org/gmkjxbk8v/image.jpg)
Nice ! Its going to feel like a long day at work for you ! 8)
I think we are all eager to see you frame MTB ! :D
What are your first impressions of the frame?
I was very busy at the office and didn't think of my frame the hole time, only when colleagues came in and ask what was in the box ;D
My first impression was: light, very light.
My second impression: damn, why didn't I choose for a painting, like the one Patrick C. had, with his Pantone 185C red Chiner. I thought about this, because the UD matte structure wasn't everywhere equal (you can see that at the picture with the seat clamp). But despite of that, I'm very happy with my frame.
(http://s25.postimg.org/cs44rgjzz/IMG_5406.jpg)
First thing I checked was the seat clamp. The seat clamp height is 12mm and fits very wel.
(http://s25.postimg.org/fksqxquyn/IMG_5415b.jpg)
And I'm also very happy with the chainsuck protectors I ordered at Peter (ordered one extra as spare). They exactly fits the frame, it follows all the curves.
If you didn't order your frame yet, use this hint. It's the 2 usd really worth ;)
(http://s25.postimg.org/99s4v2j3z/IMG_5424b.jpg)
One little disappointing about the routing of the cable for the rear derailleur. I wanted to put the inner and outer cable throught the frame, but that is not possible. It's to small for outer cable.
(http://s25.postimg.org/51xcmbhof/IMG_5420.jpg)
So, now I've to order a fork (hoping to find quickly a white one with crownloc, otherwise it will be matte black), wheelset and XT group. I'm not in a hurry, so, I take my time. 8)
In the meanwhile, I'm going to experiment with plasti dip.
;D
What is the hex bolt in the centre of the last picture for ? Does that remove the cable guide ?
Quote from: Sussed. on July 08, 2014, 03:52:09 PM
;D
What is the hex bolt in the centre of the last picture for ? Does that remove the cable guide ?
Yes, that's correct. But it also removes the tube what comes out the frame for the front derailleur.
After more discussions with mtnbikebend on mtbr.
http://forums.mtbr.com/27-5-650b/chinese-carbon-frames-650b-edition-820784-15.html#post11082757
It looks it is relatively easy to pass the cables for the rear derailleur.
The bottom hatch below the BB looks to be there to help on this.
You can re-route the cable through the frame without using the housing that came with.
And crossing the cable in front of the bar, to get a nicer bend is ok too.
In addition he used the ESI grips, and cut them to the right length to cope with the Gripshift and have the brakes at the right place.
All this is obviously still theory for me, but in a couple of weeks, I'll try!
Frame looks great. The aluminum frame protector is a nice touch.
Looking forward to seeing the bike being built up!!
Agreed, I think the aluminum finish frame protectors are pretty sweet looking. Really give an industrial look to it.
Wish they were available for the 057.
Could you make one with some aluminum shim stock- cut out a rectangle and press it on to the frame to form it, then glue it on?
I'm interested in the ability to put a stealth dropper post on the 256SL. Is it possible? Is it possible to place a stealth dropper post on any of the chiner frames?
Quote from: Ray Zorbak on July 12, 2014, 11:22:41 PM
I'm interested in the ability to put a stealth dropper post on the 256SL. Is it possible? Is it possible to place a stealth dropper post on any of the chiner frames?
I received my 256 yesterday and I think it is possible especially without a front der.
The only problem might be the sharp bent from the downtube to the seattube.
What would be better, hydraulic or cable actuated?
Do you think it is still possible to pass the cable once the BB is installed?
May be trough the hatch at the bottom?
Quote from: carbonazza on July 13, 2014, 06:11:41 AM
Do you think it is still possible to pass the cable once the BB is installed?
May be trough the hatch at the bottom?
I think the cable or hose can only be installed when the BB is not in yet or taken out.
Quote from: Ray Zorbak on July 12, 2014, 11:22:41 PM
I'm interested in the ability to put a stealth dropper post on the 256SL. Is it possible? Is it possible to place a stealth dropper post on any of the chiner frames?
see http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,163.msg1717.html#msg1717 ;D
Quote from: Patrick C. on July 10, 2014, 11:39:29 PM
Could you make one with some aluminum shim stock- cut out a rectangle and press it on to the frame to form it, then glue it on?
I don't know how much pressure you need to bend the alu in the right shape and if the frame is holding that ...
Maybe you can create a mold and then using a hammer to bend is in the right shape ?
That's good to hear about the dropper post. Thx guys
Bought myself a high sophisticated ;D kitchen scale today. I'm not a weight weenie, but just interested.
Remarkable: most indicated chinese weights are very accurate
With all indicated weights, I expected a weight of 9943 gr (21.9lbs), but now with some actual weights, it goes to 9786 gr (21.6lbs). :)
(http://s25.postimg.org/qwg4hhkjj/IMG_5534.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/ogjd0r8sf/IMG_5536.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/8i5ldi88v/IMG_5537.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/khh3ktdtr/IMG_5538.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/g3do639kv/IMG_5539.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/5htsu339b/IMG_5540.jpg) |
(http://s25.postimg.org/3m70ixef3/IMG_5541.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/408ciiyin/IMG_5544.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/q72e28qbj/IMG_5545.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/x02qyih4v/IMG_5546.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/4gtk4ym9r/IMG_5547.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/a69sp9sfz/IMG_5548.jpg) |
(http://s25.postimg.org/6nxssvrjz/IMG_5549.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/4ee9vv7zz/IMG_5550.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/amzlpg5kv/IMG_5551.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/62dfailvj/IMG_5552.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/kzlwbiz3z/IMG_5553.jpg) | (http://s25.postimg.org/d856cyuyn/IMG_5554.jpg) |
Updated buildlist (also in the first topicpost):
(http://s25.postimg.org/6182uu9fj/buildlist_v2.jpg)
Yeah, everything is arrived :D
Now find some time to build this bike together. Hopefully in this weekend. (and maybe give the plant some water ;) )
(http://s25.postimg.org/avsmp65hb/image.jpg)
Updated build list in the first post.
Ah, yes... Very exciting to have all the pieces laid out in front of you, I'm sure!
I'd say it's pretty encouraging to hear that all advertised weights are at least close to accurate. Most of the time advertised weights are always higher than actual weights. Either that, or the company is too cautious to post any estimated weights at all. Can't stand it when they do that.
And yes, water your plant bro lol
Looks good. Be sure to post pictures as you do your IP-256 build. I'm sure others will have questions about things like installing the headset, bottom bracket, cable routing, sizing your fork, etc.
Also, I've noticed a little play in my IP-036 headset, please let me know if your top bearing fits snug into the cup in the frame. My bottom one is snug but the top bearing does not have as tight of a fit. I'm tempted to take it apart and install a shim or something between the cup and bearing to tighten up the fit.
Also need to consider the weight of the sealant you'll be using in the tyres, around 50-80ml per tyre, but should still come under the magic 10kgs :)
My build is on hold. I send back my wheelset. Don't like the glossy black finish of the rims. I'm ordering now a carbon wheelset at Peter. These wheels are a little bit heaver, but 30mm width and stronger.
About the top bearing. I think I've got the same as you. Both bearing don't fit tight in the cups. The bottom bearing drops out when I don't hold it. And when I turn the frame up side down, the top bearing drops out.
I hope the magical 10kg is possible, but it will a close call ...
If you aren't under 10kg, ride for a while and then see if a 1x10 set up is possible, that will save you around 300-400g :) I am a bit of a weight weenie :P
I think having read somewhere but can't find it back.
That integrated headset have a 45 degree conic cup.
When you tighten the fork, with the stem and caps, the headset bearings find their place centered in the cups.
Yes, I would have expected the 45 deg taper to take out any movement you would otherwise have in the headset, however, this has not been the case for my IP-036. My IP-056 is fine however.
I thought about this earlier, and it is possible that I have a mismatch in the taper angles, there are both 45deg and 36deg bearings out there. Wondering if XMIplay got either the wrong integrated cup or bearing and my real problem is a mismatch of the taper angles.
Finally started with the build of my bike.
Now I'm on a point where I've got doubts.
I'm using a direct mount FD. When I'm looking to the position of the cable on the FD. I've got my concerns about the durability. The angle of the cable is to sharp ime. I think it will damage the exit hose/pipe in no time.
Do I something wrong? Do I forget something ?
(http://s25.postimg.org/jx5h1ul6n/image.jpg)
That doesn't look right.
What derailleur is that?
Is it bottom pull?
Also, are the 256s supposed to have a high or low mount derailleur?
It's a Shimano FD-M785-E2 XT Front Derailleur 2x10 (E-Type). It's a dual pull, can be used as bottom pull or as top pull.
This FD is the one that fits on the direct mount of the frame. I don't know if there are different versions of the FD-M785-E2. I thought this is the only FD that fits this frame by using the direct mount.
Looked and the E2 is the model you want...it is the low direct mount.
So, it looks like a design failure for the IP-256SL?
As it's dual pull perhaps trying going up and over making it a top pull? Or just run it 1x ;) problem solved :P
Running it 1x is not an option. :)
But it cannot going up and then going down to act like a top pull. That is not possible. There is no bolt or something to hook up.
Found one guy who's riding the bike with 3x10. Got the same problem, but replaced the plastic pipe with an aluminium one.
I'm searching all over the internet, but didn't find a solution. And Peter told me it's not a design failure.
What about using a flexible cable housing? I put one of these on my IP-036 to more easily route the cable for the rear shock.
http://www.diacompe.com.tw/product_View.asp?nid=875
(http://www.diacompe.com.tw/product_View.asp?nid=875)
(http://www.diacompe.com.tw/imgs/product/2012051600470521.JPG)
May be try it for a few rides like it is.
Then if you see some wear on that tube.
You could try to find a small metal hose ferrule with the appropriate diameter.
And put it at the end of the hose to strengthen its end.
Tomorrow I'm going to the LBS, maybe they know a better way. Maybe a direct mount from SRAM?
Otherwise I'm put a small ring around the tube to prevent wear in the frame and looking after each ride if there is wear on the tube.
If there will be a lot if wear, I'm going to replace the tube with a external cable hose
For your information, the tube is a single plastic piece with the cable rails.
The two rails, you can see when you open the bottom hatch.
Since I don't have a front derailleur and run a full hose for the rear shifter, I removed it.
And plugged the hole.
Quote from: carbonazza on September 02, 2014, 03:35:59 AM
For your information, the tube is a single plastic piece with the cable rails.
The two rails, you can see when you open the bottom hatch.
Since I don't have a front derailleur and run a full hose for the rear shifter, I removed it.
And plugged the hole.
I know how it looks like. I also looked if it's possible to drill another hole and use a cable adjuster (?). But that's not possible.
How did you remove the cable rails ? I tried, but the tube is stuck ...
I'm also running a full hose for the rear shifter, but it's runs above the bottom bracket. So the cable rails could stay.
Cable adjuster:
(http://www.topworld.nl/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/125x125/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/0/400570_1.jpg)
I unscrewed the rails, then pulled it out. It didn't come.
I pulled a bit stronger, and it came :)
Brute force ;D
So nice I want buy one...
The FD Absolutely is design failure
Finished my bike this weekend. And made one ride so far and ... I really like the bike.
So far no problems with the FD. Everything is very smooth.
The 30mm hookless wheel set gives a lot of grip. First ride I had 2 bar into the wheel set. To test if there where any leaks. The sealant have to do some work, they wheel set is not completely sealed yet. Ridden once my aluminium bike with 2 bar pressure in the tyres and that wasn't really good voor my back. With the carbon bike, the shocks are well absorbed. Going to ride tomorrow with lower air pressure.
My steer is 68 cm now, which is 3 cm shorter than before. And this is very noticeable. In loose sand it's a little bit difficult to keep track. But I will have to get used to it.
A little disadvantage is the internal cables. When riding on a bumpy trail, I can hear the cables bumping in the frame.
(http://s25.postimg.org/rf84kjr9b/image.jpg)
Looks good! Check out my thread for how I fixed the cable noise problem. I've put a couple hundred miles on the bike since the fix and I still hear nothing.
Quote from: Vipassana on September 08, 2014, 06:16:23 PM
Looks good! Check out my thread for how I fixed the cable noise problem. I've put a couple hundred miles on the bike since the fix and I still hear nothing.
Thank you Vipassana, I saw your post (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,150.msg2326.html#msg2326). I'll do this next week. It's not that annoying.
What saddle is that? Is it a tioga spyder or a cheap knock off. If the latter how are you finding it and what's your rough weight? I'm about 80kgs with kit.
It's a cheap knock off. To be honest, I didn't expect anything of this 8 USD saddle, but it suprised me. It's better than my previous saddle and I'll keep this one.
Bought it on aliexpress: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/IN-2014-Spider-Ergonomics-hollow-Bicycle-bicycle-parts-saddle-for-men-women-mtb-bike-seat-cushion/2038227912.html
(http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/sku/v0/2038227912/2038227912_193/Black-IN-2014-Spider-Ergonomics-hollow-Bicycle-bicycle-parts-saddle-for-men-women-mtb-bike-seat-cushion.jpg)
My weight is 82 kg without kit. The weight of the saddle is 185 gram.
(http://s25.postimg.org/6nxssvrjz/IMG_5549.jpg)
Last weekend I was in Germany and during a simple trail my saddle clamp came off.
Today I glued it back with aerospace glue. I think this will do the trick.
(http://s25.postimg.org/il5qn3cu7/image.jpg) (http://s25.postimg.org/c8qld99rz/image.jpg) (http://s25.postimg.org/6i0ezj1rz/image.jpg) (http://s25.postimg.org/pqxhpjlxb/image.jpg)
I'm surprised to see that failure from a reputable company like Ritchey. I'm glad you were able to fix it though and it di not cause injury. On a whim, I just ordered one of those saddles in white. Thanks for the link! Right now I have one saddle that I am switching between my MTB and my road bike and it is tedious.
I think it's a fake one (for the price I paid for).
The only disadvantage of the saddle is the mud is coming through the saddle. I've got an ass-saver to prevent mud from below :)
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ass-saver-highway-bike-bicycle-fender-Mini-Fashion-Multicolor-10-color-to-choose-wholesale/1794505348.html
(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0157/4102/products/AssSaver_Allthatiwant4_1024x1024.jpg)
Here is a nice lightweight saddle: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-design-Brand-full-carbon-fiber-road-bicycle-saddle-road-mountain-mtb-cycling-bike-seat-saddle/1334282653.html
Can't believe they blatantly rip off specialized...it is similar to Specialized Toupe seat but without leather/padding...good price.
Actually, just noticed it isn't availabe now...I believe it is still sold but without the Specialized coloring elsewhere.
Very nice build, MTB. Glad to see you finally got it finished!
Also, I'm definitely trying out one of those seats.. super light and super cheap and if you say the comfort is decent then I think it's definitely worth a go. That's crazy about your seatpost. I've always thought the Ritchey carbon stuff was some of the better that was available. I know every company has products that fail but when you see it happen to someone you know on a brand new bike, it definitely tends to tarnish the brand's image a bit. I'd prob avoid Ritchey now, even though it doesn't really make sense to. I mean if that's the case, might as well just order all the carbon (bars, post, fork) in their chiner versions.
EDIT: It IS a chiner seatpost. It's an imitation of a Ritchey carbon post, NOT the real thing.
Quote from: Sitar_Ned on September 17, 2014, 08:06:26 AMI've always thought the Ritchey carbon stuff was some of the better that was available.
It's a fake one, it's not really Ritchey. It's a seatpost from China, aliexpress. I cannot find it anymore on AliExpress, but it's something like this, but with "Ritchey" printed on it: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Carbon-MTB-kit-for-bicycle-bike-use-flat-handlebar-seapost-stem-seatpost-clip-clamp-4pc-kit/2038107096.html
Oh ok... Lol!
Yes, I guess that's definitely something that we want to point out.
How is the progress on yr bike?
Quote from: Ken4 on September 21, 2014, 03:06:56 AM
How is the progress on yr bike?
I finished the bike. Need some extra headset shims (small spacers between the lock ring and the top cover). And I've to do the noise-cancelation trick to prevent cable noise in the down tube.
I glued the seat clamp and seatpost and now it's holding very well. The saddle is great for me. I didn't expect that.
I've now driven 230 km on the bike and it's really a pleasure to ride on.
Many people on the MTB club are interested. Especially in the carbon wheel set.
Quote from: MTB2223 on September 21, 2014, 11:53:33 AM
And I've to do the noise-cancelation trick to prevent cable noise in the down tube.
What trick? Guess I missed it.. got a link?
Quote from: MTB2223 on September 21, 2014, 11:53:33 AM
The saddle is great for me. I didn't expect that.
That's awesome to hear. Seats are so expensive to get a comfortable one that doesn't add 50-100 grams to the total weight. Definitely ordering one for my next build - hopefully they are somewhat durable in the long-term.
Quote from: Sitar_Ned on September 21, 2014, 12:28:38 PM
What trick? Guess I missed it.. got a link?
Vipassana solution: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,150.msg2326.html#msg2326
Ken4 solution: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/chinese-carbon-29er-640919-post11461755.html#post11461755
I think I'm gonna combine Vipassana and Ken4 solutions together to a MTB2223 solution: Foam with a cord ;)
Thx. I've prob scrolled pass that 20+ times.
Interested to see your improvements! Eventually, it will be perfected lol
Hi mates,
Now that you have been riding this bike for a considerable time, what is your feedback for these wheels ? They are so light I thought they were made of carbon...I have been searching (whitout success though) a good pair of wheels but don't have a final idea which one to buy
The wheels are great. They gives a lot of grip. The looks are great (it looks you're riding wider tyres). But they are a little bit heaver to ride in the mud. And they are light, 1540 gr :)
It's to short time to say the hubs are great and reliable. But I know the bearings aren't that great. But when you change the bearings by ceramic bearings, you have a great hub for a very nice price.
Ik still wondering if i have to choose the wider rims or stay with the standard width. I saw light-bicycles has 27mm rims. Does anyone have experience with those wheels?
What are the benefits of wider rims. They should provide more grip and better traction in muddy terrain. But it doesn't seem logic when they seem to ride more hard in the mud.
I bought the exactly fork (Rock Shox Reba 29 100 mm ) but now (as always :D ) i got stuck choosing the headset... I know it has to be tappered, but there are many options, brands and other measures that i can find a website resuming them !!! Can anyone clarify that for me ?
Cheers
Quote from: pazolini1 on October 30, 2014, 07:22:05 AM
I bought the exactly fork (Rock Shox Reba 29 100 mm ) but now (as always :D ) i got stuck choosing the headset... I know it has to be tappered, but there are many options, brands and other measures that i can find a website resuming them !!! Can anyone clarify that for me ?
Cheers
What exactly you wanna know ?
Quote from: MTB2223 on October 30, 2014, 07:26:52 AM
Quote from: pazolini1 on October 30, 2014, 07:22:05 AM
I bought the exactly fork (Rock Shox Reba 29 100 mm ) but now (as always :D ) i got stuck choosing the headset... I know it has to be tappered, but there are many options, brands and other measures that i can find a website resuming them !!! Can anyone clarify that for me ?
Cheers
What exactly you wanna know ?
I think he wants to know what headset specs he needs.
You need the 'campy' size.
top is42
bottom is52
I could only find this description of is42 and is52 for Cane Creek headsets... How about FSA? Their website is rubbish, I can't even find a guide or sort of chart to select the properly one !!
Quote from: MTB2223 on September 15, 2014, 05:11:31 PM
It's a cheap knock off. To be honest, I didn't expect anything of this 8 USD saddle, but it suprised me. It's better than my previous saddle and I'll keep this one.
Bought it on aliexpress: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/IN-2014-Spider-Ergonomics-hollow-Bicycle-bicycle-parts-saddle-for-men-women-mtb-bike-seat-cushion/2038227912.html
(http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/sku/v0/2038227912/2038227912_193/Black-IN-2014-Spider-Ergonomics-hollow-Bicycle-bicycle-parts-saddle-for-men-women-mtb-bike-seat-cushion.jpg)
My weight is 82 kg without kit. The weight of the saddle is 185 gram.
(http://s25.postimg.org/6nxssvrjz/IMG_5549.jpg)
After 5 months the saddle begin to fail. Two cracks.
The saddle was comfortable for 40 km.
(http://s25.postimg.org/wggg0kkov/image.jpg)
(http://s25.postimg.org/69f94m2f3/image.jpg)
(http://s25.postimg.org/r7lf2p29r/image.jpg)
So, I'm now using my saddle of my previous bike.
So would you not recommend this $8 USD saddle, or do you think you would order another?
Quote from: Carbon_Dude on March 30, 2015, 09:43:27 AM
So would you not recommend this $8 USD saddle, or do you think you would order another?
No, not for me (82kg), it's not strong enough. And not comfortable above the 40km (for me).
But I'll buy another one for my son, but he can try my old one first.
After 7 months of riding this Chiner, I'm still very happy with the bike.
(http://s25.postimg.org/5lsi3618f/image.jpg)
Still no cracks. The only failure was one of the four ring bearings in my rear wheel. But that was really easy to fix (that's why I chose Novatec hubs).
Changed from 2x10 to 1x10 (absoluteblack NW chainring rules), replaced the soft foam grips to ergo grips and the spider sadle to my old cube X1 saddle.
Still looking good MTB ! 8)
Quote from: MTB2223 on April 04, 2015, 12:40:49 PM
After 7 months of riding this Chiner, I'm still very happy with the bike.
Still no cracks. The only failure was one of the four ring bearings in my rear wheel. But that was really easy to fix (that's why I chose Novatec hubs).
Changed from 2x10 to 1x10 (absoluteblack NW chainring rules), replaced the soft foam grips to ergo grips and the spider sadle to my old cube X1 saddle.
Bike still looks great! Thanks for the update.
Because of a creaking crank, yesterday I took the time to maintain of all the bearings on my bike.
I disassembled the headset and the bottom bracket. Remove all the sealing rings of the ring bearings. Cleaned it with WD40 and then with an air-compressor. Re greased it. Put the sealing rings back. And assembled it all again. And now the bike is silent again. But I think this maintenance interval is to short. With my previous bike I hadn't do this kind of maintenance in two years. I think the neco headset haven't got the best top sealing (between the top cap and the frame). And maybe I cleaned my bike to much with soap and water ... So, my next maintenance approach is to clean the bike less often except the drive train.
The bottom bearing of my headset(a cane creek 40) seized with the rust a month or so ago.
The main bearing on the Lefty developed some serious play.
And I'm on my 3rd pair of BB bearings.
I will never buy expensive bearings for these parts anymore.
I was disappointed initially, but bearings are cheap after all.
I've never changed any of these on my Cannondale Rush...
Quote from: carbonazza on April 20, 2015, 04:22:03 AM
The bottom bearing of my headset(a cane creek 40) seized with the rust a month or so ago.
The main bearing on the Lefty developed some serious play.
And I'm on my 3rd pair of BB bearings.
I will never buy expensive bearings for these parts anymore.
I was disappointed initially, but bearings are cheap after all.
I've never changed any of these on my Cannondale Rush...
The bottom bracket in the IP-256 has some drain holes, so, no water and dirt is left in the BB. And yesterday I take a look in the BB and it was clean and dry.
(http://s8.postimg.org/rjwbdaklh/IP256_drain_holes.jpg)
Don't know why the BB bearings are wearing that much. I think it's my own fault, cleaning to much with soap and water and maybe using direct (hard) water on the BB.
I don't clean it too much or pressure wash, but ride in rather harsh conditions during the winter.
My BB was closed, a simple waterproof aluminium tube with two profiled end for the bearings.
Water and mud were getting in anyway.
Definitely through the shaft/bearing interface or the bearing seals.
I drilled two holes through bottom the hatch and BB, and now when removing the crank arm, it is generally clean and dry.
The bearings still doesn't last long, but longer than without holes.
Hi MTB, thanks for all your posts, the info has been really helpful. I will be building my own 256 in the near future.
I did have a question about what the conclusion was with the front derailer. I was following your thread about the 256 Direct Mount,http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,296.15.html (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,296.15.html) but it didn't really come to a conclusion. I can see in your most recent picture that you are running a single front ring now. Was this because you couldn't find a front derailer that worked, or you just thought it would be easier? Do we know if any front derailer works nicely with the 256 frame?
Out of interest, have you been happy with the 1x setup? I'm only just getting in to riding so wanted to give myself as many options as possible with a 2x setup for now.
Thanks in advance,
Dave
Hi Tiptopperoo,
Here in the Netherlands it's enough for me to ride the bike 1x10 (setup front 34T, rear 11-36T). When I'm going to more mountainous environment like Germany or Belgium, I will install the 2x10 setup (front 38-24T, rear 11-36T).
The best front derailleur on this moment is still the XT FD E-Type (my first FD). It's not ideal for the FD cable and the frame, but it works perfect. The SRAM FD is ideal for the FD cable (and frame hose), but unusable with the charinring positions.
Thanks again MTB, I've been looking at the new XT 8000 series, does that front derailer look like it may fit better as it seems to be a direct pull? Or am I dreaming?
I'm a bit scared to run a FD on this frame as it seems to be really poorly designed for it, but I'm also a little bit anxious to run a 1x11 setup as I may get stuck on some hills.
Cheers,
Dave
Last month I build a new bike for my little son and I had a spare SRAM X5 FD left. And when I took a closer look to this FD, I think it will fit perfectly. The starting point of the X5 FD is better than the one of the XX FD.
I'll try this soon ...
(http://s25.postimg.org/c1xvtc79b/image.jpg)
Yesterday I replaced my XT double crank for a LX triple crank to get a better chainline. The chainline is now 5mm closer to the frame and now in the middle of the cassette. I hope this will reduce the noise when I'm using the biggest cog. This new setup adds another 50gr to my bike, but I don't care :)
(http://s25.postimg.org/3nw2y0mv3/cranks.jpg)
Do you mind to explain, what do you mean by a better chain line?
I see you are several mm more inside now.
Chain line explanation: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html and http://www.southcoastbikes.co.uk/How-To-Use-Derailleur-Gears and http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chainline-concepts
If you look to the ideal chain line and the line the chain on the biggest cog makes, the angle is now smaller.
If you compare the angle of the ideal chain line with the line of the chain on the smallest cog and the angle between the ideal chain line with the line of the chain on the biggest cog, they're almost the same now. Which is better.
Quote from: MTB2223 on June 25, 2015, 03:13:12 AM
... they're almost the same now. Which is better.
Moving the chainline closer will be only better if you are using only big cogs and not the smaller ones. In that case your chainring is wrong size.
The chainline should be 49mm from center for XX1 and X01 and 52mm for Boost 148 standard. I think the SRAM engineers have good reasons why this is. Probably different sizes of gears have different optimal angles of chain on them.
Quote from: Jerryno on June 25, 2015, 04:57:47 AM
Moving the chainline closer will be only better if you are using only big cogs and not the smaller ones. In that case your chainring is wrong size.
I use them all. ;D
But when I use the biggest cog, my feeling is that I put more power on the pedals (because it's a steep climb), then when I use the smallest cog (which is just for the speed). I'm using the biggest cog 10% of the time (or less).
That's why I think it's for me better to have the chainline closer to the biggest cog than before.
So, when telling you this, you still think my chainring is the wrong size ? I need a smaller chainring ? I'm happy with the 34T chainring and I think it's for here the best choice.
Myself I also need fast gear just to have it, to use downhill or on straights. Even if you are using it 10% of time I think you would miss the gear in those 10% times like I would so keep the chainring imho.
The shifted chainline will put less stress on the big cogs but more stress on the smaller ones, so it really depends on how you use your gears and how much power you put on them. If you feel like you are using gears normally I wouldn't change the sram's specs..
I think the reason why SRAM set the chainline at 49mm is because so that you can run larger chainrings. I know on some frames, a 34T is the largest you can run up front. You can tell the chainline may not be "optimal" is because when you back pedal in the 42T...the chain will drop off onto the 36T. I have a XX1 crank and when I'm in the 36 and 42...I can hear that my drivetrain makes more noise. That is a big reason why 1x chainrings wear so fast. If you look at the majority of worn 1x chainrings, its the outer teeth that gets worn out first. People are getting as little as 400km's out of their XX1 rings before they start making the dreaded grinding sound.
Garabruk makes direct mount rings that set your chainline at a 47.5mm chainline. I may try one of those. OneUp's chainrings come with 2mm chainring spacers to help you dial in your chainline.
Compromise is part of the 1x game. You either lose the top or bottom end of your drivetrain. I run a 30T with a 11-42 cassette...and I rarely run out of top end. It all depends on where you ride. I find that gearing is just as personal as any other part of the bike. What works for you does not mean that it will work for someone else. I would rather sacrifice the high end when I could just coast than push up a hill because I wanted that high gear for that 10% chance where I might use it.
I don't ride my mountain bike on the road. I have a road bike for that. ;)
Good arguments RS VR6 and very good info about the wear.
Sad thing is that often very good information and talk (about 1x11 chainline, about rims, about you name it) gets lost in various threads and is hard to search for and reach.
Hey MTB2233, do you think that 36T would fit in in your setup ? I'm thinking about 34T oval and in the largest place it's like 36T.
Quote from: JohnnyNT on June 29, 2015, 03:19:08 AM
Hey MTB2233, do you think that 36T would fit in in your setup ? I'm thinking about 34T oval and in the largest place it's like 36T.
I think it will fit. It's close to the frame, but I think it's not a problem.