Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: cscottride on October 08, 2021, 09:01:24 AM
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Hello all.
I am located in USA so all of the links below may not work for you. This is just an overview of my experience and what I found while building the new bike. I purchased a VB-R-168 frame, integrated bars, VB-60 carbon wheels, and the rest of the components needed to make it a rolling machine :D. Before I start, I wanted to say I was very sceptical of this purchase and worried that it would not turn out as good as it did. Chris from VB is very helpful and responsive. I have read of negative experiences relating to VB, but mine was thankfully a pleasant one.
Parts ordered
- VB-R-168 frame (size 58- matte black)- Velobuild
http://www.velobuild.com/products/-171
- VB integrated bars (440 mm width- matte black)- came with frame/forks/seatpost/spacers
- VB-RC-60 carbon disc wheels (matte black) - Velobuild
http://www.velobuild.com/products/-57
- Continental GP5000 25mm tires- Amazon-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RNVPQY3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Inner tube- Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XMJFJ5L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Carbon assembly paste- Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012RIEM6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Park tool grease- Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NORVHI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Foam cable covering (to stop noisy cables)- Hardware store that sells everything
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/2029n11
- Shimano 105 groupset/ disc brakes/ press fit BB- Aliexpress- 007Bike Store
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32943199402.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4cdd4c4dIxdtcS
- Bleed kit- Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWN4LSD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Shimano Ultegra center lock discs (160mm front 140mm rear)-
- Fizik saddle- Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PDLTTNN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Sram bar tape- Amazon- I would not do this again. terrible feel
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00142FFCG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Inner cable set (2) - Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JLWSF82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The good-
The frame, bars, and forks came within two weeks (to USA). The wheels took longer because I requested 350 straight pull hubs. Everything went together nicely (I definitely recommend using carbon paste and torque wrench). Getting the cables through the frame and bars was reasonably difficult, but not too bad. The bike is all together and I have a few rides under my belt. Great bike, stiff, fast. Definitely a great bike for the price. I hate when my bikes are noisy from cable rattle, etc... so I made sure I took all necessary precautions when building this one. The end result is pretty great considering the price point.
The not so great-
The seat post has slipped on me (it may not do this if you are smaller. I am 220 lbs-100 kg). I found adding more carbon paste and upping the torque setting slightly definitely helps. The wheels took a bit longer due to covid and my customizations which isn't the end of the world. The aero bars may be too aero for some. I purchased the VB separate stem and bar combo to replace the integrated bars- that hasn't arrived yet. I left the steerer tube slightly long to add spacers later on.
I have added some pictures of the bike fully built. Feel free to ask any questions if you have.
Thanks for reading/viewing.
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Great post!
Bike is beautiful.
Do you mind sharing the total cost?
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Thank you!
No, not a problem. However, that is somewhat varying depending on what you include as "necessary to build." I purchased things like socket kits in order to make the build a little easier. See below for the breakdown (all USD, all including shipping).
- VB frame, forks, bars, and wheels: Cost $1,358.63 (includes additional $260 for 350 straight pull hubs)
- Shimano 105 Groupset/ disc brakes: $1,208.19
- Shimano Ultegra discs- bought domestically: $160.05
- Internal cables and allen key socket set: $54.04
- Grease, carbon paste, tubes: $79.59
- GP5000 tires- $132.80
- Bar tape: $17.11
- Fizik saddle: $72.47
All of that totals $3,082.88 USD
*I already had the bike stand, torque wrench, BB press, and other tools to build the bike, which I haven't included in above costs.
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How'd you decide to run cables? I ran them through handlebars first. I ran cable from the rear forward. So I could feed the shifter and brake housing back through their holes. I removed the brake and front derailleur ferrules to feed easier.
Getting the fork, ring, handlebar, and spacer not to bind on the cables was irritating difficult.
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My brake calipers were already connected to the hoses, so I didn't want to disconnect those. I ran my rear brake from back to front (afterwards I realized that the brakes were pre-bled so I am glad I did it that way) and slid the foam tubing on from the front of the frame down the downtube. *By pre-bled I mean that they already had fluid in them, so when I cut them to size and inserted the fitting, I didn't need to bleed the brakes.
The front brake hose I sent up from the bottom and added electrical tape around the steerer to keep that in place.
The rear derailleur I ran from the back to front as well (and slid the foam tube on after).
The front derailleur was the most difficult. Had to run that down the downtube and get it to seat into the frame mount for the cable housing down by the bottom bracket. It was difficult to get that lined up without seeing it.
Once all of those were in place and poking out where the bars connect, I slid all of the spacer rings over the hoses/cables, ran the hoses and cables through the bars, cut to size, connected, and was done (I realize that probably sounds like it went smoothly...I did have to redo it once I realized I forgot the headset spacers the first time ::) ).
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Nice build!
What is the internal width of the wheels? Thanks
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Nice build!
What is the internal width of the wheels? Thanks
Thanks!
Can you confirm which dimension you are referring to? Is this the inner part where the tire bead seats?
I haven't taken exact measurements but I know that my mounted and fully inflated 25mm tires are slightly slimmer than the outside thickness of the rim (this may not help with your question, sorry).
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Is this the inner part where the tire bead seats?
Correct. Usually the width is either 19mm or 21mm
I'm interested in building a 168 frameset, but in undecided on wheels at the moment. Looking for something with a wider internal width
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Correct. Usually the width is either 19mm or 21mm
I'm interested in building a 168 frameset, but in undecided on wheels at the moment. Looking for something with a wider internal width
I'm in the process of building my 168 and will be using the Farsports Gravel Carbon rims which are laced to Bitex 312 Hubs with Sapim CX-Ray spokes and brass nipples.
The rim profile is 50mm deep, 24mm wide internal and 30mm wide external, and I'm using 28c tyres which have a lovely profile using this rim width.
The full wheelset is 1440g so relatively light given the depth of the rim. I could have easily knocked off another 200g or so if I'd selected more expensive hubs but didn't have the budget (or the need) for this. Aluminium nipples would save another 30g but are more prone to rust and failure than brass so didn't see this as a worthwhile weight saving.
Overall I'm super happy with the wheelset, and have done around 3,000km on them to date. They are still perfectly true and ride the same as the day they were first put on.Very highly recommended.
Here's a link to my wheelset: https://www.wheelsfar.com/gravel-wheelset-built-with-bitex-straight-pull-disc-hub-p0059.html (https://www.wheelsfar.com/gravel-wheelset-built-with-bitex-straight-pull-disc-hub-p0059.html)
Here's the same wheelset with lighter hubs: https://www.wheelsfar.com/gravel-wheelset-built-with-extralite-cyber-spd3-disc-p0105.html
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I just received my VB (separate) stem and bars. These will replace the integrated bars that are currently on the bike. First impressions are that they are stiffer than the integrated bars. I will update with pics/thoughts once I get this combo installed (which requires re-routing cables through small bar spaces ::))
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I just received my VB (separate) stem and bars. These will replace the integrated bars that are currently on the bike. First impressions are that they are stiffer than the integrated bars. I will update with pics/thoughts once I get this combo installed (which requires re-routing cables through small bar spaces ::))
The bar/stem combo has been installed. See attached pictures (sorry for the bad pictures. it is connected to my trainer currently). I decided to externally route the cables on this combo because of how difficult it is to internally route them. The holes are very small and difficult to work with (even more difficult than the previous integrated bars). This may have had something to do with the fact that all cables were already cut to length so everything was more difficult. I think this option will be good for future maintenance though.
I cut the top headset spacer to allow the cables to be internal until the stem. I was also able to connect my quadlock mount to the bars which is a big plus (the fully integrated bars are not round so this can't be done).
After getting the stem/bar combo mounted, I don't think there is any difference in stiffness between the old and the new bars. However, I am on the heavy side at 220lbs so some flex is expected. Overall I am happy with the result.
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Thank you for the info. How are those wheels doing? Did you ever get a weight on them?
thanks!
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I have had the bike on the trainer for the winter. The front wheel has been holding up fine with trainer use. There will be some warm weather this week so hopefully I can get back on the road for some more testing. I will update once I log a few more rides. I will also get you the wheel weight (front & rear).
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I weighed the wheels as they are with discs, cassette, tires, etc... The rear wheel was 4.5 lbs (2041 grams) and the front was 3.5 lbs (1587 grams).
I have attached some current pictures of the bike as well.
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Hey how is the geometry of the bike treating you? Also, what size stem did you go with? I’m considering buying this frame but the long reach worries me (lower back pain). If I do get it I’ll have to go with a shorter stem (80mm) and use all the spacers on the steering tube.
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It is great now. I actually added more headset spacers to bring up the bars (as you can see in the pictures). I also have a 90mm stem so that shortens it up some. That is the main reason I switched from the integrated bars to the stem/bars combo. The reach was a little long for me.
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Good to hear, does it come with enough spacers or did you have to order more? How tall are you? I’m 5’11.5” with slightly longer arms and trying to decide between sizes.
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Good to hear, does it come with enough spacers or did you have to order more? How tall are you? I’m 5’11.5” with slightly longer arms and trying to decide between sizes.
The frame is shipped with a cover that sits above the top bearing and 1x 5mm, 1x 10mm and 1x 20mm spacer. The top bearing cover is mandatory, and If all spacers are used the total stack is 43mm.
Hope this helps!
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Good to hear, does it come with enough spacers or did you have to order more? How tall are you? I’m 5’11.5” with slightly longer arms and trying to decide between sizes.
I think there are 5 spacers that come with the frame/fork/bar when you order the frame. When I ordered the separate stem/bar combo, I asked Chris from VB to include some more spacers (which he did). I am 6' 1" and have pretty long arms. However, I do not like a super aggressive position on the bike, so I opted for the added spacers. Hope that helps.
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The weather is warming up and I have been able to get out for a few more rides. The bike is fast and handles great!
There is however a clicking coming from the BB area when I pedal. I am trying to determine what is causing this so I can get rid of it. It starts to get annoying on longer rides. Other than that, no issues :D.
I attached a current picture as well.
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The weather is warming up and I have been able to get out for a few more rides. The bike is fast and handles great!
There is however a clicking coming from the BB area when I pedal. I am trying to determine what is causing this so I can get rid of it. It starts to get annoying on longer rides. Other than that, no issues :D.
I attached a current picture as well.
Looks great!
Did you run into any issues with the integrated stem and not being able to fully compress the headset with the moulded cap? If so what did you do?
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Looks great!
Did you run into any issues with the integrated stem and not being able to fully compress the headset with the moulded cap? If so what did you do?
Thanks!
Interesting that you mention that. I thought I had it snug but after one of my rides there was some movement and noise so I loosened everything up and tried again. I was able to tighten the top cap enough to remove pretty much all of the movement/sound. I just stood in front of the bike pinching the front tire with my knees and wiggled the stem while tightening the top cap until it was no longer moving. It did require me to go fairly snug on that top cap screw but seems fine so far. That seemed to stay snug after my most recent ride as well.
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The weather is warming up and I have been able to get out for a few more rides. The bike is fast and handles great!
There is however a clicking coming from the BB area when I pedal. I am trying to determine what is causing this so I can get rid of it. It starts to get annoying on longer rides. Other than that, no issues :D.
I attached a current picture as well.
I've recently received a VB-168 and have a problem with the seatpost hardware. I've looked at your pictures and it seems correct, but can you tell me if there is any gap like mine has?
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I've recently received a VB-168 and have a problem with the seatpost hardware. I've looked at your pictures and it seems correct, but can you tell me if there is any gap like mine has?
Have you tightened the saddle bolts to spec and there is still a gap? Could the metal piece have been bent slightly so it is not sitting in that groove properly? I looked through some pictures of mine and it doesn't appear that there is a gap there.
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Have you tightened the saddle bolts to spec and there is still a gap? Could the metal piece have been bent slightly so it is not sitting in that groove properly? I looked through some pictures of mine and it doesn't appear that there is a gap there.
Thanks for the confirmation. I finally got Chris to send me a replacement.
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The weather is warming up and I have been able to get out for a few more rides. The bike is fast and handles great!
There is however a clicking coming from the BB area when I pedal. I am trying to determine what is causing this so I can get rid of it. It starts to get annoying on longer rides. Other than that, no issues :D.
I attached a current picture as well.
Update on the clicking noise. It was not the BB. It seems that this is coming from the pedals (Look Keo). It was getting worse on my rides so I finally removed them, added grease and reinstalled them. That seems to have stopped the annoying clicking noise.
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Hey how is the geometry of the bike treating you? Also, what size stem did you go with? I’m considering buying this frame but the long reach worries me (lower back pain). If I do get it I’ll have to go with a shorter stem (80mm) and use all the spacers on the steering tube.
You should look at the VB-R-066; basically a Canyon Endurace carbon copy with more forgiving geometry and tire clearance. Some "roady" gravel frames might not be bad either. A safe bet is something with less top tube than reach.
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Update on the clicking noise. It was not the BB. It seems that this is coming from the pedals (Look Keo). It was getting worse on my rides so I finally removed them, added grease and reinstalled them. That seems to have stopped the annoying clicking noise.
Same happened to me on a garmin vector pedal a few weeks ago, and the same to a friend on his garmin vector. Took apart, cleaned, greased, click gone.
Pedals are very prone to small click noises.