Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: Nenokkias(fin) on July 18, 2022, 01:11:39 AM
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https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-29er-carbon-frame-full-suspension-xc-frame_p211.html
opinions on this frame?
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I like the way it's simply design, straight to the essential, no decoration, no carbon copy
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The whole package looks great, but it's the 38mm fork offset that has me scratching my head. I've seen 42, 44, 46 & 51mm offsets, but don't remember anything running a 38mm since the early 26" MTB days. Seems odd to me.
Having said all that, it's a solid package at a good price. From Wendy/Light Carbbon's reply: "Frame LCFS918 size L UD matte finish cost US$590/set including Frame +seat clamp+ rear thru-axle+headset+an additional derailleur hanger"
And for those of us on the US west coast, it was $165 shipping, via EMS, to California.
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I also like it very much, not a copy, slacker enough, good price, serious vendor, low weight, what else?
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I love the over BB cable routing, but not sure about the cable routing through the bars and headset yet. I just don't see enough benefit to warrant the trouble routing it.
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This is promising. Some neat features to be sure.
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A friend of mine has this on order. I will try to get some pics when it comes in.
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It seems to be a good frame for tech xc and/or marathon riding. Geometry is something in-between old school and modern "downcountry" (hate this label, but it exists though).
67.5 headtube angle will be good for low-speed steering while together with moderately long front center will allow the bike still being capable on descents. Not-so-steep seat tube angle for better power output on flat marathon sections. Threaded BB and design around 120mm fork are also good things.
Things I don't like about this frame are location of rear brake on flex stays and absence of additional bridge on upper part of them (near seat tube). Leverage ratio also seems to be a bit high (2.9 average).
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I'd say this is definitely more on the old school side. Even the 909 when set up with 120mm / 165*42.5 (thus similar travel) is much longer and much steeper seat tube, and is going to feel a lot more capable descending and climbing really steep stuff.
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We see.. I was order M size to my women and they was shipping that already
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Hey Guys!
New to this forum - I think i able gonna pull the plug and buy the 918 frame as it is cheaper shipping and frame then what Carbonda quoted me for a fm936.
My idea is to swap all my MTB parts from my hardtail to this frame, so the only new thing I would need is a shock.
What shock would you recommend for this frame? Would this work - https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/fox-suspension-float-performance-elite-lv-rear-shock/rp-prod211485?gs=1&sku=sku867452&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_medium=base&gclid=CjwKCAjw0dKXBhBPEiwA2bmObXlCTm_lhCUo76wpNFtVMERv1eahwpNpOwsmRoT36z0DlQZK5XFpDxoCuboQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Also is the BSA boost spacing?
If any of you have any advice - please let me know :)
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about rear shock, we design the frame according Monarch RL Rear Shock 165x38mm, because it's easy to get in the market.
The rear shock size is 165x38mm(standard mount only).piggy back design and coil design also be ok.
check photos as below:
Full Internal Cable Routing Design and Linkage-driven Single Pivot Suspension System .
also the frame have the knock block system as trek.
now this model have some in stock for individual buyer.
contact me:
Jim(at)lightcarbon.com
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now this model have some in stock for individual buyer.
contact me:
Jim(at)lightcarbon.com
Any idea if/when you might offer an XL frame size?
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Now only two size, M and L, if some wholesaler request size XL, we will make the model for it, normally a new model we only open one or two sizes, M or L, the rest accoriding the sales status.
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Correction: front fork offset is 51mm now, not 38mm.
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Just got the second one in and will be building it up shortly. I will try and get some pics posted soon. Looks of the frame are great and build quality seems just as great as the other light carbon frames I have. This is a buddies frame so may not have all the pics right away.
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Looks nice, reminds me of a Merida Ninety Six / Canyon Lux WC.
Only wish is for a slightly bigger model - 480mm reach / 640mm TT
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Considering one of these for the next project. Would love to hear opinions from anyone that has received and built one... and of course any pics. Most of the numbers seem pretty close to a Cannondale Scalpel SE.
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Great design frame
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I made one for my fiancé. 10.7kg.. Parts from an old bike. Plan to change suspension 120mm front and change rear normal shox whitout remote locking because the drinking bottle can't fit now without violence.. Maybe i buy winter time L size for me.. Now i ride Trifox mfm100 120/115mm setup.. it's fun and fast, but that reach is maybe too much for me..
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I made one for my fiancé. 10.7kg.. Parts from an old bike. Plan to change suspension 120mm front and change rear normal shox whitout remote locking because the drinking bottle can't fit now without violence
I’ve seen this issue on other bike frames with similar shock setups… just make a small 20-30* wedge to post between the bottle cage and frame. Angles it enough to give you a little extra space.
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My ordered LCFS918 is now painted and ready for shipment :-)
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can u remind me the price
thanks
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can u remind me the price
thanks
Frame is $550 plus shipping to your country.
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Got this ordered up along with the new 914 hard tail. Finally getting my own frame instead of building bikes for friends. a little trick to build your N+1 collection is 2 frames will fit in one box. so shipping is less per frame then.
Has anyone gone with the superlight frame version? very curious what that one comes in at in real life.
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Recieved my frame last week and have started to build my LCFS918.
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Hello, has anyone verified that it is compatible with a 165×40 shock absorber? and another question, have you tried putting the remote up, facing the frame?
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Finished with my LCFS918. I really like the lines of the frame. The quality of the frame is as always with Light Carbon great. This was really a smooth build without problems. And the bike is light, size L about 12 KG.
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Hello, how high do you take the saddle? I carry the saddle at 74cms high, and because of the geometry, I wanted to look at a L size .
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Finished with my LCFS918. I really like the lines of the frame. The quality of the frame is as always with Light Carbon great. This was really a smooth build without problems. And the bike is light, size L about 12 KG.
Dammit that looks great, lol... Deore groupset?
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Nice build, Stefan! What stem do you use?
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(http://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3764.0;attach=12699;image)
I have choosen the Deore driveline but with a SLX shifter. Its a bit heavier but the preformance is great and the price is resonable. I have gone for 11S to save a little weight.
Ram LCFS918 - Kolfiber
Storlek - Large
Framdämpare Rockshox Reba RL Solo Air 120 mm
Bakdämpare Rockshox Monarch RL Mid tune 165*38 mm
Vevparti Truvativ Stylo 6K 170 mm - 32T
Bakkrans Shimano Deore 11-51
Växelreglage Shimano SLX
Bakväxel Shimano Deore RD-M5100-SGS, 11S
Vevlager SRAM DUB BSA
Framhjul Mavic Crossmax 29" 25 mm inner widh Boost 15*110
Bakhjul Mavic Crossmax 29" 25 mm inner widh Boost 12*148
Bromsskivor Shimano SM-RT66 160/180 mm
Bromsar Shimano BR-MT500
Bromreglage BL-MT501
Däck Schwalbe Rocket Ron Performance Addix TLR 29x2.25
Styre LCFS Kolfiber 31.8 15 mm Rizer
Styrstam Katana X OS 55 mm
Styrlager LCFS
Handtag Nukeproof Horizon Race
Sadelstolpe Limotec 125 mm dropper
Sadel Nukeproof Vector AM
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Finished with my LCFS918. I really like the lines of the frame. The quality of the frame is as always with Light Carbon great. This was really a smooth build without problems. And the bike is light, size L about 12 KG.
Wow this bike looks really nice all built up. Can't wait to hear ride feedback. Also, how usable is that seatpost bottle cage?
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Finished with my LCFS918. I really like the lines of the frame. The quality of the frame is as always with Light Carbon great. This was really a smooth build without problems. And the bike is light, size L about 12 KG.
The fork is 100mm or 120mm?
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the fork is 120 mm.
The seat bottle cage can be used with a 50 cl bottle
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How does it fare in trail riding and uphill if you compare?. LCFS911
We have one in M size but can't compare because it's too small for me.
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Has anyone tried a 165x40 or 165x42.5 shock? does the frame support it?
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It's beautiful StefanB , size L, did you have the chance to weight the frame?
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It's beautiful StefanB , size L, did you have the chance to weight the frame?
Thank you :-)
No i did not check the weight of the frame.
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I have my frame and a in the process of building it up. Where are you guys getting spacers for the rear shock? I have 9mm on either side of the lower shock and I am not able to source anything. Should I just make my own?
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I have my frame and a in the process of building it up. Where are you guys getting spacers for the rear shock? I have 9mm on either side of the lower shock and I am not able to source anything. Should I just make my own?
Offsetbusings has what you need.
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https://www.offsetbushings.com/collections/frontpage/products/standard-bushing
Just send them the specs.
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On the fence about this frame.
Anyone with this built, can we get some feedback on how it rides and handles?
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https://www.offsetbushings.com/collections/frontpage/products/standard-bushing
Just send them the specs.
Awesome thank you. Just placed my order
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Finished with my LCFS918. I really like the lines of the frame. The quality of the frame is as always with Light Carbon great. This was really a smooth build without problems. And the bike is light, size L about 12 KG.
Hi Stefan, nice build! How does the rear suspension works? smooth or a bit hard? Thank you for your help.
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Hi Stefan, nice build! How does the rear suspension works? smooth or a bit hard? Thank you for your help.
Thank you :-)
I will not take the LCFS918 outside before spring. Here in Göteborg its only mud, snow and rain for the coming 3-4 months. So mid april im hoping to take the bike out on a dry trail.
(https://cdn.abicart.com/shop/images/193953951-origpic-4a3036/1785/art85/h3951/IMG_3281.jpg)
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It seems that another factory sells it, the question is which will be the famous brand?
2023 new suspension OEM famous brand 29--深圳市碳碳运动器材有限公司
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1075
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Who has one of these AND actually ridden it? I see some people have said they ordered a frame, pictures of builds but zero comments on ride quality.
Ho owns and rides this frame VS building it and just letting sit for months?
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Who has one of these AND actually ridden it? I see some people have said they ordered a frame, pictures of builds but zero comments on ride quality.
Ho owns and rides this frame VS building it and just letting sit for months?
You chose to make your first post an attack on the members of the forum b/c there isn't a review that meets your expectations?
Maybe spend some time researching geometry and suspension, those will tell you most of the story for any frame. After that, as with reviews anywhere, negative reviews will be more likely than positive so the lack of posts is a good sign, compared to the AM831 that has dozens of pages across multiple posts b/c of its issues.
It's a carbon frame from a reputable supplier. There's maybe a handful of members that have enough name brand frames and Chinese frames to make any meaningful conclusion from riding this one. Do you actually gain anything from some big brand review that says this frame is light, nimble, handles great, climbs well, descends like a brick? It's all subjective, and most reviews are paid, so what is it that you're expecting a random forum member to provide you here?
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You chose to make your first post an attack on the members of the forum b/c there isn't a review that meets your expectations?
Maybe spend some time researching geometry and suspension, those will tell you most of the story for any frame. After that, as with reviews anywhere, negative reviews will be more likely than positive so the lack of posts is a good sign, compared to the AM831 that has dozens of pages across multiple posts b/c of its issues.
It's a carbon frame from a reputable supplier. There's maybe a handful of members that have enough name brand frames and Chinese frames to make any meaningful conclusion from riding this one. Do you actually gain anything from some big brand review that says this frame is light, nimble, handles great, climbs well, descends like a brick? It's all subjective, and most reviews are paid, so what is it that you're expecting a random forum member to provide you here?
I didn't read ShaneW's first post as an attack at all. I have found the majority of the threads about a given frame lack information regarding how the frame actually rides/handles. I am still newer on the forum, and when I started reading some of the threads on many frame discussed here, I felt like I wasted many hours reading page after page of almost worthless comments, just to glean some good posts regarding how a given frame handles, or its manufacturing quality and many other details I was hoping to find, that I didn't find. (Primary example is the thread on the Carbona 909. 40 pages, 365 posts as of today, where after reading every post, i found only 6 posts regarding how the frame handles/rides.)
If I use myself as an example, I would be able to very well describe how any given road bike or gravel bike frame handles, but for other classes/types of frames, like full suspension mtb frames, I haven't ridden large enough of a variety of FS bikes to be able to provide a good review. Therefore I hoped to find good information on how discussed Chinese frames handle, but I have found this information lacking, or I have been unable find it.
Is this because most of us are not die hard riders, that only have limited experience riding a lot of different rides, or do all the bikes handle good enough that it isn't worth commenting about, because they meet the purchaser's/rider's expectations.
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If I use myself as an example, I would be able to very well describe how any given road bike or gravel bike frame handles, but for other classes/types of frames, like full suspension mtb frames, I haven't ridden large enough of a variety of FS bikes to be able to provide a good review. Therefore I hoped to find good information on how discussed Chinese frames handle, but I have found this information lacking, or I have been unable find it.
Is this because most of us are not die hard riders, that only have limited experience riding a lot of different rides, or do all the bikes handle good enough that it isn't worth commenting about, because they meet the purchaser's/rider's expectations.
My point is that some random person on the internet saying a bike handles well doesn't tell you anything. What is their background, where are they riding, what frames are they comparing to, what's the suspension setup, tire choice and pressure, what's their skill level, what are their expectations? Are you really going to be satisfied if someone posts "I got out for a ride today, bike handles great!"? Like I mentioned, there's a few members that have built multiple frames that could give any meaningful comparison, otherwise most seem to be coming from much older frames or are just getting back in to mountain biking, so what is their feedback on handling worth?
Most of the frames are using reasonable design choices for the geometry, with some being very close to modern industry designs. Pair that with how different suspension designs work and you'll have a pretty good starting point for how a frame will handle.
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I meant no attack on anyone. I worked in the US bike biz for over 25 years. I've sold thousands, built hundreds, and know my way through frame geo charts. I have a 918 on order as of Dec 1.
A ride review may have zero value- to you. I am intrigued in rider opinions of actually riding one.
I'm also not new to China sourced carbon frames. I have a Corbonda gravel rig and a 918 on order.
If you can provide feedback and opinions on the actual ride, I'd love to hear your thoughts. If you want to attack me for the question, you are of no help to me nor anyone else. Thanks for adding zero value to this thread.
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Also, Thank you Tijoe, and merry Christmas!
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My biggest issue is the -10 degree air temps and 2 ft of snow outside. i like to build over the winter and then in the spring i can get back outside. also, it has been tricky getting parts at a good price. Finally have all the items i need, now just need to find time to build it up.
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John at LightCarbon said my frame is getting painted and the wheelset I also ordered has been built. Should ship pretty soon.
I'm moving parts from my current ride to the 918 and have all the parts and pieces on hand and ready.
We just got 2 feet of snow too- fat bike time for sure! I'll build the new bike as time and weather permits and get at least a lap around the block in as soon as possible.
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Are you guys that have built their bikes up getting issues with the cables going through the headset? i am getting binding on the cables when i turn the bars. Also the inside of the top cap is really sharp and is scraping the cables. Did any one else have this issue and how did you solve it?
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My experience with this style of routing is limited to a few bikes I've seen on shop floors. It seems the extra slack that used to be between your brake and shifter is now in the frame. I think your housing/brake hose is too short possibly. You need some slack under the headset to allow for the fork rotation and soften the angle through the cable ports.
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I've used zip ties on the cable housings, under the headset, to give them slack. Like you, I would get the cables binding when turning the handlebars.
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I've received my frame after waiting 30+ days for paint. Building has been good and the only two issues so far are the paint around the cage bolts (not a big deal though) and the lack of space using a 36T chain ring. The specs say max 36T but it seems a little too close. Thoughts?
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@jefflinde and @vidlee, are your cables crossing after they exit the headset? I'm not sure what the protocol is or if its just aesthetics.
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This frame looks really promising. The "clearance" for 36T looks too small. The finishing issues are a bit disappointing, but very typical of these direct-sourced frames and should not really cause issue beyond annoyance.
If I had not already bought a bike, this is probably the frame I would go with. A bunch of neat features and a good weight.
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I've used zip ties on the cable housings, under the headset, to give them slack. Like you, I would get the cables binding when turning the handlebars.
Can you share more info on how you used zip ties to provide the slack needed under headset? Also- since the access ports rotate with the fork/ handlebars, does it matter which side you use? Example- I will only be running shift and rear brake housings, so would I want to use the right hand side then?
Thanks!
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@jefflinde and @vidlee, are your cables crossing after they exit the headset? I'm not sure what the protocol is or if its just aesthetics.
I have tried both ways. right now I have my right side controls going in the right side hole and left to left. if I push the cables into the headset to provide the slack inside the frame they only stay for a bit and then pop back out. once they pop out they bind the next time I turn.
More info on the zip tie solution would be great. I was thinking of pushing them into the frame and then zip-tieing them in place.
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I sent an email to John at LightCarbon yesterday asking if he had any tech info on the proper method of routing or securing the cables as some owners have experienced binding, etc.
He said he had not heard of this and would like a video to forward to the R&D people. If anyone can take a quick video and forward it to LightCarbon, they might provide a solution.
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I'm running AXS setup so I don't have much running through the headset. Only the shock lockout and rear brake is routed within the frame. That being said, YMMV.
Here is my housing routing:
(https://i.imgur.com/5p2ytd8l.jpg)
Under the headset I have zip ties that stops the housing from being fed all the way out back to the top:
(https://i.imgur.com/iJRyWCpl.jpg)
Another view- the zip tie stops provides enough slack, within the frame, to prevent binding when the handle bar is turned either way.
(https://i.imgur.com/2X62swxl.jpg)
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Thanks so much for the details and photos! So no seal or grommet around the cable ports?
Maybe some heat shrink tube to protect the hose and housing might help a bit.
I saw a cable route headset by Token Technology that had a cutaway of a frame with fork and they had a zip tie around the headtube securing the control lines.
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What rear shock and lockout are u using. I'm super interested in this build
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What rear shock and lockout are u using. I'm super interested in this build
I have a RockShox Monarch RL waiting for my frame to arrive.
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Finished building. It's a few hairs under 26lbs (11.79kg). Planning to ride soon, will report back.
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That looks 8). Very interested to hear how it rides as I think about upgrading from Airwolf 026 to full suspension for this year.
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Went for the maiden voyage night ride. 8.69 miles (13.98km), 1,103 ft (336.19m), 1hour moving time, 1hour 20min elapsed time (had to made bike adjustments, take fotos and some street crossings). Maiden ride was mostly climbing and XC.
My local trails are XC and my background has been XC. My previous, most used, bike is a BXT hard tail (carbon) and I also have an old Kona Hei Hei (FS alloy).
The LC 918 is my first modern geo bike and even though I've had one ride, it was a blast and I'm looking forward to riding it more. I was surprised how well it climbed and its efficiency. It's not a hard tail, but it's no slouch and well worth the trade off for FS comfort and handling.
I don't have regrets yet and will keep posted in the future.
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Finished building. It's a few hairs under 26lbs (11.79kg).
That's great, what size is it? Any trouble with cable routing?
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That's great, what size is it? Any trouble with cable routing?
Size medium and I did not have troubles with cable routing. I did not use zip ties under the headset and I don't have any binding.
The only housings I'm running through the heatset are the dropper and brake.
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My 918 frame and carbon wheelset shipped last week! Time to tear down the parts donor bike and clean thing up. Mostly XO1 drive and a 110mm SID.
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My 918 frame and carbon wheelset shipped last week! Time to tear down the parts donor bike and clean thing up. Mostly XO1 drive and a 110mm SID.
Hi! New on the forum. I'm looking to build a new xc marathon bike that is slightly slacker than my current scalpel that has a head tube angle of about 71 degrees ::). Love this frame and also the FM909/FM1206.
Great seeing all the amazing builds and technical knowledge here.
What wheels did you settle on ShaneW?
Cheers
Christoff
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I was considering a 918 as well, mainly due to the 2 Bottle cages, however i went for the 917. and i have to say: no regrets here! Quality good, 120mm travel, remote is well solved with a hole in the frame. 11kg w/o pedals is nice too. I combined it with their handlebar AM12 (didnt trust the integrated cc bar as i am a little on the heavier side. Also here, nice product.
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Make sure you triple check the torque on the lower shock bolts.
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Hi! New on the forum. I'm looking to build a new xc marathon bike that is slightly slacker than my current scalpel that has a head tube angle of about 71 degrees ::). Love this frame and also the FM909/FM1206.
Great seeing all the amazing builds and technical knowledge here.
What wheels did you settle on ShaneW?
Cheers
Christoff
I went with LC's "Cheap" carbon wheels- 87MB-MC932GP-1423 Their 87 generic straight pull hubs with 932 graphene rims and bladed pillar spokes. Total weight on a laboratory analytical scale: 1445.5 grams. They look awesome with the "dimpled" rims! Taping was easy and they set up tubeless without issues.
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So my frame and wheelset arrived and I have been doing the slow build this week! Ill share a photos later. Frame notes first:
Size Large painted glossy Pantone 624C. Paint is fantastic, not a chip or miss anywhere and the color is perfect.
Seatpost fit is pretty sloppy. Seems a tad over 31.6 mm seat tube bore.I will try a different post, as this fit is with an ebay carbon. I might have to insert a shim of a couple thousandths of an inch to fix this.
Rear Dropout Spacing is a little wide by 3 or 4 mm. Axle pulls gap closed just fine and tightens to torque without issue.
Shock install was no issue and fit perfect.
Left Bottom Bracket threads were a bit of a challenge. I should have chased the threads with a tap but was able to get the cup in straight using the crank axle as a guide and press using an old BB cup and some oil first.
Chainring Clearance: I run a 34t WolfTooth Oval and it clears the lower stay just fine. Not sure on a 36 round, 36 oval would not clear it.
Headset: There is nothing in mountain bikes more stupid than running cables and hoses through the top of the headset. Aesthetic value is Zero. A sharp radius is created in the shift cable hosing to get under my handlebars and to the shifter. I am running only shift and rear brake though the frame. I have one 10mm spacer under my stem. I started with both exiting on the right, toward my shifter and brake lever but that seemed too tight of bend, now have them on the left.
Those that have built one of these- What side did you end up running your right hand controls on?
Cable routing through the frame was nice and smooth with no issues. I did slide foam damper tubes over both inside the main triangle. Headset fitment is nice. I do wish it had 1-1/8th inch upper and normal cable routes exiting on the side for smoother lines and cable actuation though.
Rear brake hose rote is odd, but works. Brake mount will not fit on chain stay location so has to be on upper. I ran brake inside stays and over to the shimano banjo bolt on the outside of the XT brake.
Bottle cage threads are aligned and clean. Large frame size has mounting for 2 bottle cages. The seat tube location WILL fit a cage, BUT a small/ 21oz bottle will never fit. This would be a good spot for storage in a cage or using a strap like WolfTooth offers instead of H2O.
Oh, did I mention how f#cking stupid 'through headset' cable routing is??
That is all for now!
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Thanx for the great update!
+1 on those headsets
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Hi. I am interested in this frame. Quick question. Does it use the universal derailleur hanger or some specific one? Maybe a canyon copy?
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Hi. I am interested in this frame. Quick question. Does it use the universal derailleur hanger or some specific one? Maybe a canyon copy?
I ordered a spare with my frame. It is not a universal.
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Anyone use 165*45 shock on this frame? any problem?
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Anyone use 165*45 shock on this frame? any problem?
I went with the recommended 38mm stroke. I bought this specifically for the 110mm rear travel. Had I wanted more, there are plenty of frame options out there without resorting to trying an out of spec shock length.
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Anyone use 165*45 shock on this frame? any problem?
I went with the standard 38mm shock as well and I would guess that you would run into seat tube clearance issues with a longer stroke shock. You would be getting over 120mm of travel and I don’t think the frame can clear that. Would look at the lcfs958 if you want more travel. I have that frame as well and it is an awesome mid travel frame. It builds up pretty light as well. I am right around 26lbs with 130/130 and an XT build
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Has anyone been able to build a really light weight version of this bike? I have a beefier trek fuel ex but I want a lighter xc race bike.
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Has anyone been able to build a really light weight version of this bike? I have a beefier trek fuel ex but I want a lighter xc race bike.
Not sure how light "really light" is to you but I have a decently light bike at 24.8 lbs. it currently has alloy wheels and tubes as I wait for my carbon wheels to be finished. currently I have a SR Suntour 34mm fork and shock, XT drive train, XTR brakes and rotors and then carbon bar and seat post. the wheels will loose about 500g and I could probably take another 100-150 if i went to a Fox SC fork in the 32mm. I also have the PRO Tharsis Bar and stem which are a bit portly. the stem is 160g and bars are like 170 i think. Going to an Uno kalloy stem and some flat carbon bars would take another 80-100g off of the total there. I did go with the ZTTO 12 spd cassette. it is crazy light and machined from one piece. lighter than XTR i think and mounts as one big chunk instead of individual cogs and spacers.
i think if you tried and had deepish pockets you could get into the 22 lbs range pretty easily. wheels and tires will be a big factor as will fork choice.
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Finally not -10° outside so I can get a pic.
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For anyone running AXS/a single brake hose internally, have you found a solution for filling the other holes in the headset cover?
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Has anyone been able to build a really light weight version of this bike? I have a beefier trek fuel ex but I want a lighter xc race bike.
Im at 24.75 lbs. Not sure how the other guy got the sane weight with a bunch of aluminum parts. My build is SiD fork, XO1 mechanical w carbon cranks, Light Carbon wheelset at 1445 grams, generic carbon bars and seat post. I'm at 24.75 size large, one bottle cage, wahoo computer and mount and pedals of course.
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Anyone use 165*45 shock on this frame? any problem?
This frame is uses standard mount shocks. All the 165*45 I've seen are trunnion mount.
I've compressed the frame without the shock and there's still some room before the tire will hit the seat tube. I suppose if you can find a 165*45 in standard mount it will likely work.
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For anyone running AXS/a single brake hose internally, have you found a solution for filling the other holes in the headset cover?
I'm running AXS and have two housings into the headset (brake and dropper). I haven't plugged the gaps and haven't developed dust issues, but black silicone caulk will fill the excess gap.
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Hi. I am interested in this frame. Quick question. Does it use the universal derailleur hanger or some specific one? Maybe a canyon copy?
I'm fairly certain it uses a universal derailleur hanger (UDH).
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Im at 24.75 lbs. Not sure how the other guy got the sane weight with a bunch of aluminum parts. My build is SiD fork, XO1 mechanical w carbon cranks, Light Carbon wheelset at 1445 grams, generic carbon bars and seat post. I'm at 24.75 size large, one bottle cage, wahoo computer and mount and pedals of course.
Tires? Depending on what tires I use, they can add or remove close to 2 pounds on a mountain bike. I removed 2 pound off my Carbon Spycycle hardtail when I put on narrower tires. Went from 21.5 lbs to 19.5 pounds.
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Im at 24.75 lbs. Not sure how the other guy got the sane weight with a bunch of aluminum parts. My build is SiD fork, XO1 mechanical w carbon cranks, Light Carbon wheelset at 1445 grams, generic carbon bars and seat post. I'm at 24.75 size large, one bottle cage, wahoo computer and mount and pedals of course.
i will re-weigh it once i get a new scale. you have me very curious now. XO1 seems to loose a lot of the weight in the cassette vs shimano and i have a super light ZTTO cassette installed. it is XX1 territory for weight. i have XTR brakes and the XT cranks are not that much heavier than X01 as well. plus i am running 2.25 tires that are pretty XC oriented.
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I do have 2.35 tires tubeless, but sub 600 grams ea. GX cassette too so there is 100g. I do have Stylo carbon Cranks. I'm 24.75 # with xt spd pedals, bottle cage and wahoo computer.
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I do have 2.35 tires tubeless, but sub 600 grams ea. GX cassette too so there is 100g. I do have Stylo carbon Cranks. I'm 24.75 # with xt spd pedals, bottle cage and wahoo computer.
So I re-weighed my bike with pedals, bottle cage and a lezyne pump and I am at 25.66lbs. I think the 24.** weight was no pedals, pump or bottle cages.
On another note, I finally received the spokes for the wheel build. using the venfort hubs and light carbons graphene XC rims, I am looking to loose 2.2 lbs over the existing wheelset. part of that is going to the ridenow ultralight tubes. I am pretty much over the whole tubeless scene as we don't have thorns or sharp rocks in my neck of the woods so puncture protection is pretty useless for me. Once I get it all build up I will post an official unofficial weight.
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Wheels are built and everything is ready to ride. Total weight is 23.5lbs. The light carbon graphene rims make for some seriously light weight wheels. Together with Pilar spokes and the Venfort hubs I am at about 1270g. Super happy with this build.
Best grams/$$$$ upgrade has to be all the titanium bolts. Hahahahaha. I know it is a waste but it is also the most fun part of any bike build.
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LCFS918 frame can use the newest SRAM Eagle Transmission/ XX Eagle directly. or use the UDH hanger for other groupset,
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http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1075
Is this frame the same of LightCarbon LCFS918?
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http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1075
Is this frame the same of LightCarbon LCFS918?
Yes
I contacted him through AliExpress to ask about the frame and this is what he answered:
FM061 frame We are not retailing on AliExpress.
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I'm seriously considering this frame for a new build but have not found any sizing guidance. I'm 5'11" (179.5 cm) tall 32" (81.25cm) inseem, what size would I order?
Thanks
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Wheels are built and everything is ready to ride. Total weight is 23.5lbs. The light carbon graphene rims make for some seriously light weight wheels. Together with Pilar spokes and the Venfort hubs I am at about 1270g. Super happy with this build.
Best grams/$$$$ upgrade has to be all the titanium bolts. Hahahahaha. I know it is a waste but it is also the most fun part of any bike build.
Could you tell me the height of the saddle?
I need about 79cm or 80cm
thanks
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I'm seriously considering this frame for a new build but have not found any sizing guidance. I'm 5'11" (179.5 cm) tall 32" (81.25cm) inseem, what size would I order?
Thanks
I am 6ft with a 32.5-33 inseam and I am riding the large frame. Seems to fit very well. Don't have a ton of seat time yet but so far it's good.
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Could you tell me the height of the saddle?
I need about 79cm or 80cm
thanks
I run 790mm from BB center to top of saddle. Not sure if I had it set in my pictures to exactly that but I do now. I tuna 400mm seat post and I have a bout 4-5cm of seat post in the frame before I hit the min insert line.
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So I figured after reading everyone’s builds and comments before deciding on the 918. Now I have built up mine and had the first ride I thought I would add my feedback.
Main reason I opted for the 918 over the other similar frames was for the 2 bottle bosses and conversations with Jim Lee gave me the most confidence since it’s my first china build.
Build.
918 in medium, I had planned on painting but the finish is so nice I’ve left for now and will paint maybe in winter. Rockshox monarch rear shock midtune.
Wheels- light carbon 30mm xc rims graphine with dtswiss 350hubs
I opted for the xc bar/stem in 70mm for the internal cable routing
Light carbon zero offset seat post
Sid select 120mm 44mm offset
Full XT groupset and brakes, I opted to wax the chain as it’s great on my training bike though it’s the first time on a MTB in the uk so we shall see. Also my only bugbear with the build is I had to buy yet another bb tool as XT is yet another standard…..why?!!!!
No issues with the build itself, frame and components all went together perfectly I did have a spacer missing (I got two external routing kits) from LC but in fairness Jim Lee sorted so it didn’t hold the build up as the wheels were due a week or so after the frame anyway, bb alignment was fine and I didn’t need to chase out threads. Seat post and frame figment seems spot on. I was worried about the headset into bar routing being a nightmare, yes it was more of a pain than external but I think it’s worth it based looks etc and as a bonus you have no issues with cables pulling that others have mentioned. I did opt to add the silicone cable housing to stop rattles.
Build without pedals but with Fidlock bottle cages and comp mount etc came to 10.5kg on a set of calibrated scales from work. Very pleased, I did weigh the frame before build and it was 1.9kg so right on the light carbon spec. Really impressed as there’s plenty of savings available if you went weight weenie with deep pockets for sub 10kg.
First ride was a 40km local xc/trail ride around 800m climbing, bit of everything really, with 18kph average with afew stops.
Ride was abit of a surprise actually, first time for me on flex stays and I was expecting a slightly harsh ride, the suspension is actually quite active not intrusive or enough to notice but it actually deals with the little stuff well, I don’t like faffing with lock out is why I didn’t bother with RL. Climbing wise the bike is good based on Strava times but feel wise it felt similar to my old xc bike but it was definitely faster for the effort on times, where it really shines is out of the saddle, the thing really leaps forward, I will definitely spend more time out of the saddle as it’s addictively fast. Hard to know whether this is down to the wheels or frame but again based purely on both feel very stiff.
Handling and descending was the main shock, I’m coming from old school 130mm xc marathon bike with steep angles for reference but I would describe the handling as “stable”, it will be very confidence inspiring I think once I’m used to it but you definitely need to move about and think about weight distribution more on fast flowing single track but it is rapid when you get it right, some of that maybe down to the 44mm offset forks but the Sids forks are brilliant, super stiff and bendy forks are a massive bug bear for me. My biggest take away is the bike fast smooth and absolutely silent, the second is important to me but I guess maybe not for everyone.
First ride wasn’t without incident and things to work on to add some realism.
I did have a couple of seatpost slips, even with carbon paste, nothing drastic but enough that I stopped to put back, the specs don’t specify the nm of the bolt so I started off on the low side 3nm and have gone up to around 5nm.
Front fork is too hard so going to adjust that down, I’m on 20%sag but it feels too hard.
Using Vitoria mezcals front and rear, front tyres again too hard. I previously rode Conti race kings and the Vitorias are so much better in my opinion but the side walls feel stiffer so I can run lower pressures.
Biggest problem was the comp mount only has one fixing and it came loose twice, rrd two the mount actually fell off, luckily no harm done other than a screen protector doing it’s job but I think a healthy dose of thread-lock.
Bottle boss for 2nd bottle is perfect for my purpose but it’s only suitable for a 500ml in a medium. Main frame could definitely go 800ml.
I didn’t opt for a dropper as I have used and fitted on the old bike but never felt the need really, but if your building this bike i would suggest it’s probably a must, I’m confident/stupid enough to be behind the saddle but you have to be in a precarious position without the dropper for whatever reason with angles on this frame.
Bar/stem is very very stiff which isn’t
a bad thing as such but if your sensitive to vibration it’s not for you, I use soft silicone xc grips but still got alittle of the buzz at the bars, hoping fork/tyre combo tweaks can help. Also the internal routing is perfect for one hose but is a little tight at the bar opening so I am interested to see how easy the cable routing will be if I opt for a dropper. Maybe a good excuse for an axs if I can ever justify the cost.
Rear shock is standard mid tune, I think I will end up re-valving to high compression as to sit on the 20% I’m a over 200psi and I’m not exactly a big guy. Nothing wrong with that but I prefer to run lower pressure.
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Nice build, Peak district XC and thanks for the thorough write up.
I really want to build one of these, but can't really justify it due to the overlap with my Spark. But this thing looks solid and has a lot of neat features.
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hi guys, do you know if this frame has standard UDH or not?
Sorry answer was on previous page
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I just tried installing a XX SL transmission derailleur on my frame and it's NO GO. The bushing does not fit (opening diameter too small) and the the hanger physically cannot be placed in to the frame with the hanger removed. I'm guessing they did a change up of the hanger middle of production. If your dropout looks like mine, SRAM transmission will not work for your bike.
(https://i.imgur.com/xBkZ6VFl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4ct7YFEl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/piWirMWl.jpg)
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I just tried installing a XX SL transmission derailleur on my frame and it's NO GO. ...
Did it come with a UDH mounted on it ?
Did you contact them about this issue ?
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What options are there for standard shocks 165x38? So far I am aware of the Monarch and DPS.
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What options are there for standard shocks 165x38? So far I am aware of the Monarch and DPS.
I was briefly considering this frame and was curious about the lack of 165x38mm shocks as well. It turns out they are using the older Imperial measurements of 6.5in x 1.5in and just calling it metric. This should give you a lot more options when searching for shocks.
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Do you know if there will be a 919 soon?
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hey! I have already recieve the frame. Everything is great. I am greatly surprise about this brand.
I am new building mtb and I have a question that maybe you could answer me.
I am looking for a rear shock and I see that the 918 has a mount 165*38mm. Otherwise, I see many options in 165*37.5mm, but I am not sure if this measurement would fit the frame. I have already got a reba rl 120mm.
The only model with 165*38 I have found it is Rockshox Monarch.
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I've found;
Fox Float for $$$
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-float-dps-factory-rear-shock-standard-6-5-x-1-5-evol-sv-3-position-lever-kashima-coat?variant=39495996506234¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOoryUVTeBYk0IVq4mVmQXktnVFrH_ToNxfa2s7xvAOy_bu4idnrEh1E (https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-float-dps-factory-rear-shock-standard-6-5-x-1-5-evol-sv-3-position-lever-kashima-coat?variant=39495996506234¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOoryUVTeBYk0IVq4mVmQXktnVFrH_ToNxfa2s7xvAOy_bu4idnrEh1E)
Suntour Raidon for less $
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144369890662 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/144369890662)
hey! I have already recieve the frame. Everything is great. I am greatly surprise about this brand.
I am new building mtb and I have a question that maybe you could answer me.
I am looking for a rear shock and I see that the 918 has a mount 165*38mm. Otherwise, I see many options in 165*37.5mm, but I am not sure if this measurement would fit the frame. I have already got a reba rl 120mm.
The only model with 165*38 I have found it is Rockshox Monarch.
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hey! I have already recieve the frame. Everything is great. I am greatly surprise about this brand.
I am new building mtb and I have a question that maybe you could answer me.
I am looking for a rear shock and I see that the 918 has a mount 165*38mm. Otherwise, I see many options in 165*37.5mm, but I am not sure if this measurement would fit the frame. I have already got a reba rl 120mm.
The only model with 165*38 I have found it is Rockshox Monarch.
Your question is answered literally two posts above. You need to look for 6.5in x 1.5in standard mount shocks
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I run 790mm from BB center to top of saddle. Not sure if I had it set in my pictures to exactly that but
Jeff I see you installed the suntour edge lor , how is it ? Any trouble with the bashing kit?
Thx
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I found this frame from a local dealer. But it has a different rocker. The shock connection is on single pivot with the rocker and rear triangle. Size of the shock is then longer, maybe 190mm.
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I found this frame from a local dealer. But it has a different rocker. The shock connection is on single pivot with the rocker and rear triangle. Size of the shock is then longer, maybe 190mm.
very nice and neat, i also believe the weakest point of 918 is the 165x38 ammo, well, also the weight can be improved...
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Jeff I see you installed the suntour edge lor , how is it ? Any trouble with the bashing kit?
Thx
Sorry for the late reply. No I have had no issues with the bushings or anything really. The shock is a bit noisier than a fox but I have gotten used to it and only ever noticed when just plodding along and thinking about it.
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Did it come with a UDH mounted on it ?
Did you contact them about this issue ?
Versions before 2023 are non-UDH hanger, and all versions applicable from 2023 with UDH hanger, and you can install sram eagle transmission directly.
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Im curious about the 917. Almost a year on how has it been for you?
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Undecided between this and the 917 (aka 919). I like the idea of two bottle cages. I want to use parts from a donor bike and hoping to transfer across.
Do you think this can run a 130mm fork and a 120mm shock?
Also will a SRAM NX X Sync ring with 30T boost 3mm offset work with this BB (sorry I am noob with this)
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I just finished a Light carbon 918, with shimano xt. Excellent frame
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Undecided between this and the 917 (aka 919). I like the idea of two bottle cages. I want to use parts from a donor bike and hoping to transfer across.
Do you think this can run a 130mm fork and a 120mm shock?
Also will a SRAM NX X Sync ring with 30T boost 3mm offset work with this BB (sorry I am noob with this)
the fork will be fine, the shock needs to be the correct length and stroke, so most likely not. and the crank will be fine. you may need a new BB depending on what your donor bike had for BB shell.
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I'm looking to also build a LCFS918 MTB but I have some concerns (as it is my first build), I weigh 105 kg will the frame (size L) hold my weight doing small jumps?
Should I buy Lightcarbon rims or shoud I buy brand ones locally for the service when something breaks (Belgium)?
What is the wait time for european deliveries (estimate)?
I really like some of the builds I see around here nice work everyone.
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I'm looking to also build a LCFS918 MTB but I have some concerns (as it is my first build), I weigh 105 kg will the frame (size L) hold my weight doing small jumps?
Should I buy Lightcarbon rims or shoud I buy brand ones locally for the service when something breaks (Belgium)?
What is the wait time for european deliveries (estimate)?
I really like some of the builds I see around here nice work everyone.
I am 102kg and ride the large. I have not had any issues. I do run my shock pretty close to max psi but that is with all my bikes. I road a different open mold frame for 5 yrs before this with no issue either. As for the wheels, light carbon will be just fine as far as the weight is concerned. As for servicing, any shop should be able to replace a spoke if you were to break one but nothing about LC wheels or any other open mold companies wheels would increase that likelihood.
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I'm looking to also build a LCFS918 MTB but I have some concerns (as it is my first build), I weigh 105 kg will the frame (size L) hold my weight doing small jumps?
Should I buy Lightcarbon rims or shoud I buy brand ones locally for the service when something breaks (Belgium)?
What is the wait time for european deliveries (estimate)?
I really like some of the builds I see around here nice work everyone.
105kgs weight is no problem
Gte it from our cooperator in BE or CH, or get it from us in china, it's according the price you can accept, get it from BE and CH price is higher, but ,You can ride your bike to the shop when something goes wrong,
The warranty policy is the same. In addition, if parts need to be replaced, they need to be replaced from China.
The delivery time is also the same, because if you order in Europe, they usually need to complete the manufacturing in China and then transport it to Europe. They don’t keep much inventory.
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Ordered my frame a few days ago with the AD930-XC rims will put updates on my build as soon as it arrives.
Can you use car spray paint to paint the raw Carbon (wait with paint was to long)?
I would mount SRAM XO transmission any review about this combo?
Regards
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I enquired recently and still no plan to make an extra large size. A shame, as it looks nice!
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Ordered my frame a few days ago with the AD930-XC rims will put updates on my build as soon as it arrives.
Can you use car spray paint to paint the raw Carbon (wait with paint was to long)?
I would mount SRAM XO transmission any review about this combo?
Regards
You can use car paint for spray painting, but it will discolor and fade over time. The reason why our spray painting takes a long time is because there are many steps. It requires three different layers of spray paint. Each time, you need to wait for the paint to dry and smooth, and finally Spray a nearly transparent protective paint on the outside.
In this post, an Italian rider uses our frame LCFS918 to install SRAM XO transmission.
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Started working on my build this weekend but I snapped of a bolt on the hinge part 1 of the short M8 screws with max 13 NM.
The head snapped of whilst thightening on 10 nm.
Regards
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Are enduro brand bearings pre-installed as they suggest on LC website?
And do they seem easily to reach in case of servicing?
The main pivot bearings of my cube stereo pro must be pulled and are put in sets of two without a possibility to get behind them. This makes servicing very difficult.
How is this engineered on this frame?
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So I figured after reading everyone’s builds and comments before deciding on the 918. Now I have built up mine and had the first ride I thought I would add my feedback.
Main reason I opted for the 918 over the other similar frames was for the 2 bottle bosses and conversations with Jim Lee gave me the most confidence since it’s my first china build.
Build.
918 in medium, I had planned on painting but the finish is so nice I’ve left for now and will paint maybe in winter. Rockshox monarch rear shock midtune.
Wheels- light carbon 30mm xc rims graphine with dtswiss 350hubs
I opted for the xc bar/stem in 70mm for the internal cable routing
Light carbon zero offset seat post
Sid select 120mm 44mm offset
Full XT groupset and brakes, I opted to wax the chain as it’s great on my training bike though it’s the first time on a MTB in the uk so we shall see. Also my only bugbear with the build is I had to buy yet another bb tool as XT is yet another standard…..why?!!!!
No issues with the build itself, frame and components all went together perfectly I did have a spacer missing (I got two external routing kits) from LC but in fairness Jim Lee sorted so it didn’t hold the build up as the wheels were due a week or so after the frame anyway, bb alignment was fine and I didn’t need to chase out threads. Seat post and frame figment seems spot on. I was worried about the headset into bar routing being a nightmare, yes it was more of a pain than external but I think it’s worth it based looks etc and as a bonus you have no issues with cables pulling that others have mentioned. I did opt to add the silicone cable housing to stop rattles.
Build without pedals but with Fidlock bottle cages and comp mount etc came to 10.5kg on a set of calibrated scales from work. Very pleased, I did weigh the frame before build and it was 1.9kg so right on the light carbon spec. Really impressed as there’s plenty of savings available if you went weight weenie with deep pockets for sub 10kg.
First ride was a 40km local xc/trail ride around 800m climbing, bit of everything really, with 18kph average with afew stops.
Ride was abit of a surprise actually, first time for me on flex stays and I was expecting a slightly harsh ride, the suspension is actually quite active not intrusive or enough to notice but it actually deals with the little stuff well, I don’t like faffing with lock out is why I didn’t bother with RL. Climbing wise the bike is good based on Strava times but feel wise it felt similar to my old xc bike but it was definitely faster for the effort on times, where it really shines is out of the saddle, the thing really leaps forward, I will definitely spend more time out of the saddle as it’s addictively fast. Hard to know whether this is down to the wheels or frame but again based purely on both feel very stiff.
Handling and descending was the main shock, I’m coming from old school 130mm xc marathon bike with steep angles for reference but I would describe the handling as “stable”, it will be very confidence inspiring I think once I’m used to it but you definitely need to move about and think about weight distribution more on fast flowing single track but it is rapid when you get it right, some of that maybe down to the 44mm offset forks but the Sids forks are brilliant, super stiff and bendy forks are a massive bug bear for me. My biggest take away is the bike fast smooth and absolutely silent, the second is important to me but I guess maybe not for everyone.
First ride wasn’t without incident and things to work on to add some realism.
I did have a couple of seatpost slips, even with carbon paste, nothing drastic but enough that I stopped to put back, the specs don’t specify the nm of the bolt so I started off on the low side 3nm and have gone up to around 5nm.
Front fork is too hard so going to adjust that down, I’m on 20%sag but it feels too hard.
Using Vitoria mezcals front and rear, front tyres again too hard. I previously rode Conti race kings and the Vitorias are so much better in my opinion but the side walls feel stiffer so I can run lower pressures.
Biggest problem was the comp mount only has one fixing and it came loose twice, rrd two the mount actually fell off, luckily no harm done other than a screen protector doing it’s job but I think a healthy dose of thread-lock.
Bottle boss for 2nd bottle is perfect for my purpose but it’s only suitable for a 500ml in a medium. Main frame could definitely go 800ml.
I didn’t opt for a dropper as I have used and fitted on the old bike but never felt the need really, but if your building this bike i would suggest it’s probably a must, I’m confident/stupid enough to be behind the saddle but you have to be in a precarious position without the dropper for whatever reason with angles on this frame.
Bar/stem is very very stiff which isn’t
a bad thing as such but if your sensitive to vibration it’s not for you, I use soft silicone xc grips but still got alittle of the buzz at the bars, hoping fork/tyre combo tweaks can help. Also the internal routing is perfect for one hose but is a little tight at the bar opening so I am interested to see how easy the cable routing will be if I opt for a dropper. Maybe a good excuse for an axs if I can ever justify the cost.
Rear shock is standard mid tune, I think I will end up re-valving to high compression as to sit on the 20% I’m a over 200psi and I’m not exactly a big guy. Nothing wrong with that but I prefer to run lower pressure.
Thanks for your thorough info. Did you get the XC14 integrated bar? What's your opinion on the neg. stem angle or is this compensated by spacers and rise-angle?
Considering the integrated cable routing; when steering, does the slack cable go in and out the frame through the headset opening?
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….
I am looking for a rear shock and I see that the 918 has a mount 165*38mm. Otherwise, I see many options in 165*37.5mm, but I am not sure if this measurement would fit the frame. I have already got a reba rl 120mm.
….
I ordered the frame as well. I think 165*37.5 mm metric options will work as well. The eye to eye length is the same. It only give you 0.5 mm less travel which is around 1% of total travel less compared to 38mm and will not be a noticeable difference.
Or am I missing something?
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Hi ChristEr
I did get the XC14 bars in 70mm, it’s not too aggressive with stem spacers puts but mines set up as xc marathon bike, depends on usage and if you’re used to that position you still get some adjustment but nothing like with separate bar/stem. I wouldn’t swap back as pros are worth it but the buzz and stiffness is noticeable.
Integrated bars/cable works amazing, you’d never know they run through the bars by feel etc no extra weight in the steering or binding. There isn’t much slack needed in the system though with the routing down the bars in my case and between the bearings, as the lengths are pretty fixed as you don’t need too much extra at the front for bar movement. I suspect it would be more of an issue with the top cap style depending on the angle entering etc as you’d need to allow more hose/outer housing. With the integrated bars you do lose some steering angle compared to the headset cap but this would only really affect you turning the bars beyond anything like normal.
Over 1000km on the bike now and really pleased with the bike.
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Just finished building my 918 in crystal red matte, size L
I used the following components:
Their MC932GP-XC rims- 28 holes (320 g each), XC03 handlebar (220g), SP02-31.8 setpost (193g)
Full XT M8100 1x12 groupset (34x10-45)
Kalloy uno stem 60 -7
SID SL Ultimate 110 fork
Monarch RT3 shock
Shock bushings from offsetbushings.com
DT-swiss 350 CL straightpull hubset
Sapim laser spokes
DT-swiss standard brass nipples black 12mm
Schwalbe tubeless valves
Schwalbe Racing Ray and Ralph
Ergon GA3 grips size L
Total weight by adding up all the components: 9,8 kg. Real life weight 11.1 kg.
The paint job looks very nice and I didn't find any imperfections. From a distance you get a darkish red color
Everything went together very well; including headset, bottom bracket and brake mounts. Although the bottom bracket wasn't faced after the paint job and the rear brake mounts were faces just a little, everything fitted perfectly and the crankset spinned smoothly.
I only sanded a sharp edge where the top tube meets the headtube to prevent damage to te brake en shiftlines.
Only drawback of the frame design I think is the limited choice of shocks due to unconventional imperial sizing and standard mount. I actually only found the monarch to fit the frame. The Monarch has been updated through the years and seems like a fine choice. And the hidden cables look nice, but would be more convenient for future service to have the lines routed through the side of the headtube.
All in all I'm very happy with my build. I did a quick test ride and it was very responsive and light compared to my alloy Cube stereo pro 120 from 2018 (13.9kg)
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It looks like the new model uses a trunion mount shock with a longer size. Anyone order one of these yet?
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That's correct. I saved the old webpage which states the standard 165x38 standard mount shock. More options for the rear shock on the new frame with trunion mount.
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Hi all,
New member here. I ordered a 918 in early April, so hopefully I should have it in my hands soon, and really excited.
I only have a few concerns, but I have a technical brain so I should be able to work them out.
1) I run a 40t chainring. On my current Bianchi I have to run spacers to make it work, so it's just a case of how many on the 918.
2) I've also bought a set of the XC14 bars. The concern with these is that I run 720mm bars for XC, so it's a case of whether that will work for the internal routing (I'm guessing not).
The big challenge I've got is getting it under 10kg, but where there's money there's a way.
I'll be sure to post pictures when it arrives.
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Hi all,
New member here. I ordered a 918 in early April, so hopefully I should have it in my hands soon, and really excited.
I only have a few concerns, but I have a technical brain so I should be able to work them out.
1) I run a 40t chainring. On my current Bianchi I have to run spacers to make it work, so it's just a case of how many on the 918.
2) I've also bought a set of the XC14 bars. The concern with these is that I run 720mm bars for XC, so it's a case of whether that will work for the internal routing (I'm guessing not).
The big challenge I've got is getting it under 10kg, but where there's money there's a way.
I'll be sure to post pictures when it arrives.
Did you order the new model with the trunion mount shock? How much was the total? What’s the build plan to get it under 10kg?
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Did you order the new model with the trunion mount shock? How much was the total? What’s the build plan to get it under 10kg?
Yeah, it should be trunnion and if the website is correct, without the knock-block.
The total including shipping came to about £755, and apparently that includes import fees, though I'm prepared to find out I'll still have to pay fees.
Most of the build will come from my current 9.6kg hardtail, but I can definitely save weight if I swap to a DT Swiss dropper and SID SL fork.
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Yeah, it should be trunnion and if the website is correct, without the knock-block.
The total including shipping came to about £755, and apparently that includes import fees, though I'm prepared to find out I'll still have to pay fees.
Most of the build will come from my current 9.6kg hardtail, but I can definitely save weight if I swap to a DT Swiss dropper and SID SL fork.
Looking forward to your build. I really like my frame although I wonder what benefits the reunion mount provides. Hopefully more room in the frame. Mine fits 2 water bottles but just barely.
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Looking forward to your build. I really like my frame although I wonder what benefits the reunion mount provides. Hopefully more room in the frame. Mine fits 2 water bottles but just barely.
I'm looking forward to it as well ;D. I wake up every day hoping to have an email waiting for me, and wondering if I should chase or just leave them to it.
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Thought I should say something about this frame since I was satisfied with it, including how the build went, its ride characteristics and final weight including mentioning the components. Most of the components mostly came from my previous hardtail which was of modern geometry by a known EU manufacturer. Final weight 10.6kg
SID SL ultimate 110mm with remote
Shimano XT brakes with kcnc 160mm rotors
XX1 cassette, chain and rear derailleur, mechanical
Carbon stem and handlebar from Ali and velobuild
Bikeyoke divine sl dropper
Manitou Mara inline rear shock
XO1 crankset with sigeyi AXO pm and XT pedals
SRAM dub bb
Schwalbe rocket Ron and racing Ralph
DT Swiss 350 hubs and carbon rims from a local builder
The bike feels responsive and adequately stiff both for technical climbs and tracks. Downcountry and overall Xc performance is superb. Manitou Mara shock plays also a role in that.
Geometry is spot on with medium at 172mm height.
Bike build was smooth with no issues. Note that a standard sram bb spacer might be needed to avoid chain ring rub in the chainstay. In my case 3mm.
In the fotos a random darimo post appears and stylo alloy crankset.
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I'm looking forward to it as well ;D. I wake up every day hoping to have an email waiting for me, and wondering if I should chase or just leave them to it.
Any update on your build?
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Any update on your build?
It arrived unexpectedly while I was in Morzine last week. Annoyingly, I thought I was paying £150 for DHL delivery, but they sent it with Evri, so I had a very nervous wait.
I've got positives and negatives right now. Generally the build is really good and the paint is amazing. However, the BB shell hasn't been faced at all, so I've got to get that done.
It's in pieces right now while I create a custom protection kit, so you can have a tease.
I have found that a 40t chainring really won't fit, it seems like 38 is the max.
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What is you technic for creating template for protection? Probably one of the most frustrating part of my first build
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What is you technic for creating template for protection? Probably one of the most frustrating part of my first build
I used masking tape by doing lots of shorts strips width ways across a piece. Important to get build up to limit stretching when you remove it. Draw the pieces out. I use a contraption to follow the curves.
It helps that I've done loads of pre-cut kits for specific frames, so I know where relief cuts etc should go.
Then I peel off the masking tape carefully and flatten it onto tracing paper so I can make adjustments. Then when that's done, transfer to the film.
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I am struggling with a dt Swiss 232 rear shock in the lcfs918 (new model with trunnion mount)
The dt Swiss bushing kit m8*39.9 results in play with clunk noise when i lift the bike.
Anyone has experience of tips, combining the 232 with lcfs918?
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I am struggling with a dt Swiss 232 rear shock in the lcfs918 (new model with trunnion mount)
The dt Swiss bushing kit m8*39.9 results in play with clunk noise when i lift the bike.
Anyone has experience of tips, combining the 232 with lcfs918?
Can you narrow down if the noise is coming from the trunnion or the eyelet side of the shock?
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I found the solution:
dt swiss has 2 types of bushing kits, M8*39.9 and M8*40
the last one was the on I needed, it has a straight design that fits exactly
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I watched one of hambinis videos on light carbon and he got a Z3 grade frame.. Did you guys get the Z3 grade or the lower grade ones?
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Lightcarbon : lcfs918-frame (size L), stem(80mm), handlebar (82cm, 15mm rise), saddlepost(zero offset), wheelset (33mm width)
Shimano xt 8100 groupset
Dt swiss 232 shock and fork (120mm)
Schwalbe NobbyNic 2.25
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fixed
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Is the 67.5 HA with a 100 or 120 mm fork?
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Figured I’d do a quick longer term review since you tend to hear about the builds and then nothing else incase anyone is interested.
Bikes at just under 3k now, at start of decent weather for me so it had a fairly busy year 1 of life.
Just done the full service, original bearings in the frame were alittle disappointing as despite pretty much just decent weather and cleaning etc one had failed completely, so abit of a pain to get out, others were a mixed bag some perfect others fairly close to scrap. Only 6 bearings so I upgraded to a good spec. The bearing that failed made a mess of the inside face of the bolt but really pleased with lightcarbon (Jimlee) who has shipped out a replacement so can’t argue with that. People worry about the internal headset routing but service wasn’t much of an issue as you can move the slack to where you need it, more fiddly and annoying for a bike shop I’m sure, but at home just takes an extra bit of time/effort still worth it in my opinion for looks/neatness.
Light carbon wheels have been great, sadly I had to replace a rear rim last year due to two unfortunately placed rocks, one cut the sidewall and the other smacked the rim about a meter later when tyre had deflated and I hadn’t had chance to stop. Again lightcarbon,Jimlee and my local bike shop bailed me out as it happened two weeks before a race and I didnt have a spare wheel, new rim delivered and built up on old hub. LBS builds a lot of wheels and was impressed with the carbon rim and how the original was tensioned etc, rim damage was fairly minimal in the grand scheme but risk you can with carbon wheels, metal rim would be scrap too unless you ran with a tube.
Nothing to do with the frame but officially gave up on the mezcals this year went through 5 tyres last years due to tiny nicks on where the bead meets sidewall. Some gone decent mileage last one I managed about 200km. Really like how they ride but no joy, and terrible with the inserts in as the insert seems to rub the inside of the tyre so tubeless repair with sealant just doesn’t work. Switched back to conti race kings.
Only other change was some new lighter pedals and XCADEY crank power meter, so weight about the same.
Hopefully planning to build up another bike likely another lightcarbon, either upgrade the existing frame components and build onto hard tail/gravely build so I can upgrade the 918 or build up another 918 or 980 with slightly different spec.
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I have 2300 km on this same frame. All terrains — mud, rocks… XCM races, training, jumps, you name it. Basically everything. One time, I hit a rock hard near the bottom bracket, but only the paint chipped off. I also broke one rim. Overall, I’m really happy with how the bike looks & handles.
The only real issue I’ve had was with the shock link. Since the link was already assembled when the frame arrived, we didn’t open it up. But after a few rides, it started to get noisy, and the bottom link screws were coming loose. We kept re-torquing them, but the noise kept returning, getting worse each time. We even tried using a generous amount of Loctite Blue, but nothing helped.
When we finally opened it up completely, we found one completely shattered bearing (PXL_20250409_182620503.TS_exported_2100.jpg). It was difficult to remove. We installed a new bearing, but the mechanic noticed that the tolerances for one of the screws and the thread weren’t great. He used the problematic screw on the opposite side, and of course, we replaced the bearing.
I bought Enduro Max 698 bearings as replacements, the same as the originals — or at least, that’s what they are marked as. After replacement, the noise was gone, though the screws still tended to loosen a bit — less than before, but still not perfect.
Jim was really nice and sent me an entirely new link. In the meantime, that problematic screw slightly damaged another bearing as well (PXL_20250529_200009767.jpg). We have now replaced the entire link, and the screws go in smoothly, but they are still loosening. The mechanic mentioned that one of these screws should perhaps be reverse-threaded (counterclockwise) to help prevent this. Is that true?
Has anyone else experienced this issue? We torqued the screws to 11 Nm just to be safe (the spec is 13 Nm according to the website info). Could this be contributing to the problem? Thanks!
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Very Nice bike!
Can you put a spring washer along with threadlock?
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I had a similar issue with the linkage after a crash. It got worse by time to the point being very noisy. After disassembly one bearing was shredded. Did not had luck (my bad) changing the bearing but I got a new one in no time from China (Wendy is super).
As for the bike itself is superb. I’ve ridden it in several races and it can handle everything. Weight is 10.8.
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We were replacing UDH hanger today (it was bent) and decided to take a look at screws, the left one was tight and right was loose.
Upon unscrewing the left screw, there was a shredded bearing again. (with the default bearings on the new link they sent)
Now we replaced both of these lower bearings with new Enduro Max and torqued it to 12nm. Could it be the bearings they use?
Anyways, I suspect this will just continue happening. Is there anything we can do? What could be the culprit?
I can't be the only with this issue? They aren't replying anymore (EDIT: Jim passed the info to the technicians, seems like I'm the only one)
I have few more bearings as reserve, but this is really not a solution.
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Done a few hundreds od km so far. For now no problems found. Bike is nice to ride, nimble and pedals good.
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Quick update from Lightcarbon: I’ll have to wait at least 2, possibly 3 weeks for new rear triangle to arrive (waiting already 2 weeks since they approved my replacement). With the national XCO coming up on the 20th, that’s a serious problem. Apparently, there are other pending orders stuck in the paint shop. Hopefully, the tolerances on the new one will be okay—I specifically requested a Z3 and was assured I’d get that level of quality. But the reality so far has been different.
So, their technicians agreed it's the triangle. Which seems right, you can tell the part which sits between screw and link with spacer AND the central piece of the link, is not straight. Attached pictures to illustrate how it's supposed to be. What happens then, once the screw is in place, it puts pressure at an angle on the weakest point, which is bearing. When it fails, the screw gets lodged into the link sidewall, and during ride, the movement from the link slowly unscrews it, not fully, but just enough. Thats why I also requested two new bottom screws.
I’m not riding the bike anymore until the new triangle arrives.
To make matters worse, two friends ordered frame sets from them because of me—one hardtail and one road bike. The hardtail seems fine so far (time will tell), but the road frame was slightly too large, so he ordered a new one. The replacement doesn’t even compare in quality. There are paint residues around the bottom bracket, and more seriously, the carbon in the seatpost area is uneven, causing the seatpost to sit crooked. Cannot be fixed in as well, it's moving. I can provide pictures of both if anyone wants to see.
Honestly, I’m not sure I can recommend them anymore. This kind of thing shouldn’t be happening with a latex 3D mold—or am I wrong? Maybe they’re overwhelmed with orders, or they’ve started outsourcing?
Given that they’ve been present at all the major bike shows lately, you’d think they’d care more about the brand reputation they’re trying to build. The bike hasn’t just cost me money—it’s cost me a lot of frustration. Last time, I had to ride shorter distances in a stage race because of this problem. While we were previewing two stages, bearing failed. Luckily, we brought old link with fresh bearing pressed in. It held until stage 3 where it failed and the screw unscrewed. So I rode last stage with broken bearing, hoping for the best. Survived, with squeaky bike. Embarrassing. I even paid for the branding on the frame and promoted them multiple times on Instagram, but I’m not sure I’ll want to do that again. Time will tell.
I’m not usually someone who gets irritated easily, but I really hope they improve. They’re not ignoring me, to be fair—but this could’ve been solved months ago.
As usual, I will post all updates. Full transparency.
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The lightcarbon quality is kinda questionable.
I got the LCFS958, which I use from time to time. Yes, it's rideable (in a bike park), it does not disintegrate and will likely hold for a while. But the quality of pivot mounts and bearing seats is average and below: there're plenty of cavities/porosity/signs of delamination. I made a mistake when I didn't check everything on arrival and only took a good look one month after the end of the warranty during bearings replacement (yeah I rode the bike quite rarely on vacations).
Another thing to remember is the warranty: it counts from the date specified in the invoice (that excel sheet with the quote you got from them). All the time required to get the frame built/painted/shipped is included within the warranty period, so you can confidently remove these few months from coverage once you get the frame.
Would I buy anything from lightcarbon ever again? Absolutely not. Would recommend? Certainly not.
560 bucks frame + 140 shipping + VAT was probably an okayish deal back in 2021, but still have a feeling (in a bad way) that I bought something from aliexpress on sale. Looking now at their frame design, my experience and others' (check the road bike section), I will stick with another supplier (which I did, actually).
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I got a new rear triangle last week and we installed it. Even visually, it looks significantly better than before when compared side by side.
Now it’s not crooked and the spacers look even. Check the attachments.
I went on one ride and everything went well. I’ll report back on how it behaves in the future.
I also upgraded brakes from XT to XTR and got a new headset from EasyBikeParts (https://easybikeparts.co.uk/collections/complete-headsets/products/easybikeparts-is52-icr-upper-headset-assembly-for-integrated-cable-routing) (the one where the cables are fixed in place). Video attached.
I hope the cable durability will be better now, since the stock integrated headset had been damaging them.
Also went with longer stem on the handlebar (70>80mm), we cut steerer all the way now.
Only paid for the handlebar, obv. The painting and delivery took some time, but at least they are fast with response to my concerns or requests.
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I got a new rear triangle last week and we installed it. Even visually, it looks significantly better than before when compared side by side.
Now it’s not crooked and the spacers look even. Check the attachments.
I went on one ride and everything went well. I’ll report back on how it behaves in the future.
I also upgraded brakes from XT to XTR and got a new headset from EasyBikeParts (https://easybikeparts.co.uk/collections/complete-headsets/products/easybikeparts-is52-icr-upper-headset-assembly-for-integrated-cable-routing) (the one where the cables are fixed in place). Video attached.
I hope the cable durability will be better now, since the stock integrated headset had been damaging them.
Also went with longer stem on the handlebar (70>80mm), we cut steerer all the way now.
Only paid for the handlebar, obv. The painting and delivery took some time, but at least they are fast with response to my concerns or requests.
OMG that headset is amazing. I have been contemplating buying a whole new bike because I HATE the headset situation. this looks like a perfect option. thank you so much for posting this.
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I checked mine ; bought it in April 2024, don’t seem to have this triangle problem. The angles are straight just like your replacement part.
The hardware (screws, bearings) are not of good quality. The screws rust almost instantly and the headset bearings already have a lot of play after one year.
I like the easyparts solution; can you retrofit it instead of the stock headset ? Is the height above the headtube shorter ?
Overall I’m very happy with my build ; it is light and stiff. It suits me well on the single trails in the Netherlands. I would suggest LightCarbon to supply best quality bearings or let the customer source their own. It would improve the quality of your purchase as a whole.
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Quick follow-up on the frame:
I’ve done about 600 km since the rear triangle was replaced, and I haven’t had any more issues. The bearings aren’t the problem (they’re original Enduro) as long as the tolerances in the link/triangle area are correct. So I’d say my issue is resolved. I’m really happy with the bike now. I fell this weekend hard during muddy race, hahah.
A friend of mine had a quality issue with his road bike frame (crooked and moving seatpost, plus a poorly machined thru-axle slot on the front fork), but he received a replacement that’s top-notch. They also covered all return shipping costs.
In the end, they do resolve everything, it just takes a bit of time due to shipping. You have to mention right from the start that you want the best quality control possible.
In the attachments, you can find photos I took today. The video is from a race that took place 2 weeks ago.
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What bottle cage are you using?
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What bottle cage are you using?
These are the bottle cages I’m using; they’re great: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006021142109.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006021142109.html)
Sorry guys, I need to make another update. Yesterday I said everything was resolved, but unfortunately, it’s not.
My bike was at the mechanic for a quick check-up before the stage race next week (Wild Bear). He checked the bottom screws at 10 Nm (the suggested torque is 13 Nm).
Unfortunately, the crunching noise was there, which means the bearing was already damaged again.
Not as severely this time, but a few balls are toast (picture 1). I’ve done exactly 640km/12610m since the rear triangle was replaced.
This time the screw didn’t come loose, but you can see a bit of wear on one side of the screw head (picture 2).
Tomorrow we’ll install a new Enduro Max bearing, but with small washers on each side. I’ll make another post showing how that goes.
We don’t really have another choice because of the upcoming race and the fact that I’m riding and training on this bike weekly. I do have an Orbea hardtail as a backup, though we’ll see.
What I don’t understand is how others with this frame don’t seem to have the same issue. We literally replaced both the link and the rear triangle, and it keeps happening.
There must be something fundamentally wrong with the entire linkage/triangle design. I’m not an engineer, so I can’t say for sure what’s going on, but I assume the design puts too much stress on that particular part during riding.
I’ve sent a message to Jim to ask about my options.
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Only 6 bearings so I upgraded to a good spec.
Thanks for the info. I don't suppose you noted down the bearing sizes? as I also needed to replace and ideally would like to order before I remove the old ones to reduce down time?
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Hi.
My LCFS918 done over 2000km so far (1400km bike packing trip month ago). I am a bit heavy - about 92kG, fully loaded bike was about 35-38kG. So far all is fine but just for curiosity I am going to check rear triangle/link bearings and report.
Frame is OK, bike rides lively and light, there is good control when going over rough sections of trail, done also some easy enduro trails and all is OK.
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Hi
I´am just starting to build my918,
New to mtb and I have some problem to choose a dropper post, to many variants...
The bike is L and Iám 187
Any suggestions?
Ulf Hansén
Sweden
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I’m inclined to make an update post, as I felt like I left everyone hanging regarding my frame situation.
Anyway, since the last fix we did, I’ve ridden 61 h / 1,093.33 km / 26,535 m and so far, there have been no further issues.
The FIX was to add one shim between the middle piece of the linkage and one on the outer piece, so it sits directly on the bearing.
Once screws are now tightened from both sides, nothing really compresses towards the middle as before. The tolerances are now correct. It sits flush, exactly as it should.
The new rear triangle was still necessary though.
The shims are extremely thin, around 0.1 mm.
So, if anyone is experiencing similar issues, check how your spacers look on BOTH sides:
- Are they straight or slightly crooked?
- Is the spacing identical on ALL contact points?
If not, shimming can help, BUT it needs to be very close to perfect from the factory.
Linkage tolerances must be checked 100% by QC, and I’m confident they’ve taken steps to prevent this issue on future orders.
According to Jim, they made improvements to address this.
Heads-up to Jim & LC, professionals 👍
To be honest, I’m probably in the minority when it comes to how this bike is being used. I’m riding it at its limits, beating the hell out of it on very rough terrain and in harsh conditions, intentionally. This is my race bike.
I’ll post updates if anything changes.
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So I'm pulling the plug on a LC FS918 frame, size L.
I have one concern, and while I wait for the answer from Mr. Jim, I'll ask you as well. What is the real life max insert in the L frame? The specifications say 220mm, but I believe (and truly hope) it's more than that. MY specialized epic has a seat tube length of 470mm, and 220mm max insert, same as the L frame from LC, but I can insert close to 25cm inside with no problems. I'm running a 170mm dropper which is 480mm + 23mm for the valve. Rock shox web page says that it will not fit my frame (270mm is outside, so 23,3cm inside which shouldn't fit), but it fits without issues.
While looking at the frame picture, and the seat tube length, it looks like there's more than half of the total length straight, so don't know why's there a 220mm limit...(the red line is exactly half the length of the black one which represents 470mm of the seat tube).
I just bought the axs dropper.. it would be a major PITA, and in my wallet if I need to exchage it....(bought the 170mm version because the price was a bargain)
Does anybody run the L frame so he can verify how deep can a seatpost really go?
Thank you
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I will check insert depth tomorrow on my large frame but I believe the limit is where the bottle mount rivnuts are in the frame.
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I will check insert depth tomorrow on my large frame but I believe the limit is where the bottle mount rivnuts are in the frame.
I will be much obliged if you do. Mr. Jim is about to invoice me....
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I was able to put a seat post into the frame just over 300mm. The post hit the water bottle rivnut on the seat tube. So you should be able to get a dropper post about 280mm or so into the frame with out issue.
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I got good news. Jim said they'll ship the frame after 25th. That's much sooner then I anticipated...
Meanwhile I'm playing around with some mock-ups...
I'm a w40k fan
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Quick follow up.
I received my frame yesterday, and I'm disappointed. The overall quality and finish are immaculate. But there are issues.
I have asked and was agreed upon getting holes on my downtube for the cable routing. Instead.. I got that idiotic "through the headtube" option. I Only need to route the rear brake hose. but non the less.. I KNOW it will get damaged inside the headset space.
Another problem was the shock mounting hardware. The bolt that should hold the shock in place was a bi*ch to get out. It was so tightly in, that even with lubrification.. it went out with all the anodization stripping off. After removing it.. I realised that the lower end of the shock (8x40mm hardware) doesn't fit inside the link. The space is 1mm to small. The link is a heavy piece of aluminium, and it doesn't have that much give. I had to release all the bolts that connect the link to the rear triangle.. and I managed just barely, with a bit more force that I would have liked, to fit it it.
After that.. I continued to check the other bolts. They all have torque specs on them (only the one that holds the shock don't). One of the bolts holding the link to the frame went out like a breeze. The other one.. that was I fight that I was sure I would lose. I was mentally preparing for the snapped bolt and a warranty hassle, but eventually it went out. The threads are stripped, and I presume that they cross threaded it it the factory.
Last but not the least....the rear suspension has a spring effect. It's like it is under tension. It doesn't move freely, but rather in jerky moves. Can't see a reason why that that would be normal behaviour other than some misalignment issues (video link attached).
The only thing that didn't give me issues was the derailleur hanger. I'm scared to even try to screw in the bottom bracket, and fit the headset...
Really.. really disappointing.
I have contacted Mr. Jim, and waiting for his response...
I definitively need a new set of bolts.. and maybe even the whole link. Not sure what is going on with the threads in the top tube... I could try to swap the bolts.. But I fear that the pieces of aluminium from the bolt might have contaminated the threads in the frame.. Perhaps I could use a M6 tap and try to clear them out....
I'll wait for the info from Mr. Jim first...
https://youtu.be/o_DnS9aeDmM?si=3Z64AabXzMgtXW5p
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Of course the thread is damaged inside the frame. The other bolt doesn't even want to thread in. Its a 6mm non standard pitch, so I don't have the tap with weird pitches, so I can't clean it out :(
On top of all that, the shock goes in askew. One side has much more space than the other. The pics are bad, since I was doing it one handed in the low light basement, but the problem is there. if I tighten it like this.. it will ruin the shock or the bearings for sure.
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Mr. Jim is a real professional.
Regarding the stiff link:
Small-travel MTB frames usually adopt the virtual pivot point design. This stiff point is exactly the virtual pivot.Before the rear shock reaches this point, the rocking link absorbs initial vibrations. Only after passing this pivot does the rear shock take over, which effectively protects the shock.This structure is also used by brands like Specialized and Trek.The only drawback is that it cannot be used for long-travel suspension systems—it is not suitable for travel over 140mm or 150mm.
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Last but not the least....the rear suspension has a spring effect. It's like it is under tension. It doesn't move freely, but rather in jerky moves. Can't see a reason why that that would be normal behaviour other than some misalignment issues (video link attached).
Everything else sounds bad but this is normal for a linkage driven single pivot as the seat stays have to flex as the rear end rotates around the main pivot. Horst link pivots fix this "problem".
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I have worked out everything with sales dept. They are sending replacement parts. If nothing else.. they really do help out...
Now I just have to wait... again.. lol...
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Still waiting for my spares. In the meantime... I found some possible issues with the headset. So.. I ordered the frame WITHOUT the headset routing option, but they have sent me the one that was meant to be internally routed. While I hope I will receive the one without internal routing (side cable exit @Mr JIM), I must be ready for anything.
So.. my main issue it the headset topcap. None of the 3 different versions I got fit properly on my standard 2 piece handlebar/stem. one topcap is to small, so I think that's for the road bike frame
Other one is for full internal routing with their one piece handlebars which I didn't order, and the third one kind of fits, but the gaping holes for internal routing look stupid, and they will allow all kind of water and debris to enter my headset ruining the bearings. Not to mention that the only barely usable topcap is to high for my steerer to reach through, and it raises my driving position which I don't like.
Also, I can't fit the conical split ring anywhere. That's a standard part for centring the steerer on 99% of normal headsets.
Am I doing something wrong, or am I forced to buy their one piece handlebars?
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ok.. so I need to order a new cover from somewhere. Ritchey has it, and Acros has it...Light carbon doesn't have it....
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Also, I can't fit the conical split ring anywhere. That's a standard part for centring the steerer on 99% of normal headsets.
It looks like you're trying to fit a split ring (small, silver) inside another split ring (black one resting on the bearing in pic #5).
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I know I am.
Just trying to figure out why include something that doesn't fit anywhere with everything else..
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I have ordered the Wolftooth Components semi-integrated headset to replace the one from LC. I had to take a dermis tool to my LC headset because the inside of the split ring was so sharp it shredded my shift cables after a few rides. I am hoping the WTC headset plays more nicely with my cables and brake hose. I will post some pictures once I get it installed
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I have ordered this
https://r2-bike.com/ACROS-Headset-Cover-ICR-IS52-Integrated-Cable-Routing
Sure as hell hope it will fit. I have a short steerer, and I haven't got a lot of room to play with. Hopefully, this isn't that high stack, and It'll play nice with the original aluminium insert.
If all else fails.. Gbodorr was kind enough to give me his old LC one piece bars.. and I'll try running those..
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also.. I have ordered a Neco H382s 52mm HS. It's a smidge lower stack than the acros cap.. but I get both bearings and an original compression ring.. Still a possibility that the acros one won't fit on the original compression rings from LC.
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All that it remains i to test it out in the wild. And take a nicer photo
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Quick update. Neco headset fits but only if you use the bearing that comes with it (8mm). Also.. it needs a small shim.. not sure how thick.. didn't measure it.. took it off my Epic frame headset.. around 0,2mm, and then it works perfectly. Low stack..
The original 7mm bearing, and included split rings work with acros cap. Only reason I took the neco version is because its aluminum (opposed to plastic acros), the stack is lower and the sealing looks better.
Jim told me that the replacement frame would be sent this week. After that.. I can test the bike as I should.
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Quick update. Neco headset fits but only if you use the bearing that comes with it (8mm). Also.. it needs a small shim.. not sure how thick.. didn't measure it.. took it off my Epic frame headset.. around 0,2mm, and then it works perfectly. Low stack..
The original 7mm bearing, and included split rings work with acros cap. Only reason I took the neco version is because its aluminum (opposed to plastic acros), the stack is lower and the sealing looks better.
Jim told me that the replacement frame would be sent this week. After that.. I can test the bike as I should.
I am surprised that you have cables entering through frame ports. the headset routing is really the only reason I hate this frame. can you share a picture of the other side of the bike as well? where does your dropper cable enter the frame? I have been hesitant to cut ports in my frame ut seeing yours has me re-thinking that.
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It's not that big of a deal. Just use a dremmel and a diamond drill bit. Granted. the aliexpress grommet isn't the greatest. It has a small indent that the frame wall should fit in, but the carbon on this frame is to thick for it.. and I need to cut out the piece with a scalpel.. and I glued it on. I'm getting a replacement front triangle, and the grommet looks a bit different.
I have a wireless dropper, so I only needed one hole.
The spare triangle has holes drilled on both sides.
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When buying the frame, you can request that they insert the frame ports. I did, but they forgot. Go figure....
The spare one they are sending me has got the ports installed, but I can't figure out from the picture did they put 2 holes on each side or only the right side has 2 holes.. for the RD and the dropper.. and the left one has only one..
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Yes, I got the same option presented by Wendy too, when I asked about LCFS911 and received minimum order quantity of 100.
There's no way I'm buying 100 frames; but she followed up with the "LCFS918 + side ports" proposal.
We should all keep doing that to inform them that no one wants the headset routing business.
I like that they can quickly pivot and offer something that customers want. I'm guessing they'd simply drill straight into the baked carbon frame. I'd guess is a no-no from "proper" perspective, but it should be fine in practice, right? Right???
Anyway, I'm trying to see if they can do the side ports with the custom paint scheme here.
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I see absolutely no problem with drilling the carbon on such a small scale. The "meat" on that spot is really thick and solid, and I think absolutely nothing will happen..
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They have a nice way of visualizing the received custom paint job specification.
You do need to be attentive about reviewing the provided documents, since your specification in English is received an interpreted by someone who is not a native English speaker.
I was in the US time zone so I could reply back maybe up to twice per day over email.
There were several days' worth of minor corrections like "I meant <this color> for the decal but you have <that color there>," or "your text color description doesn't seem to match the appearance in the drawing." It's aggravated by the fact that I decided to use dark gray and light gray for subtle effects - it's easy to mix them up.
I appreciate Wendy at LightCarbon for staying patient through 2-3 rounds of respins, until we had this schematic that I could approve. Even the placement of the logo was customizable - the lower logo section wraps around to the bottom of the down tube. They were able to accommodate the internal cable routing holes on the side of the frame. I'm looking forward to receiving the finished frame.