Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: DutchCheapskate on June 05, 2023, 05:37:37 AM
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LTWOO launched their electronic groupset for mindboggling prices. Any experiences with or expectations of these groupsets?
Prices on alibaba are way cheaper than alixpress. Anybody ever bought from alibaba?
Carbon groupset ERX: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-LTWOO-2x12-speed-Wireless-Electric_1600838655769.html?spm=a2700.7735675.0.0.63e7aDQdaDQdMY (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-LTWOO-2x12-speed-Wireless-Electric_1600838655769.html?spm=a2700.7735675.0.0.63e7aDQdaDQdMY)
Aluminium groupset ER9: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-LTWOO-2x12-speed-Wireless-Electric_1600838975287.html?spm=a2700.details.0.0.5536138d2AnG1u
(https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-LTWOO-2x12-speed-Wireless-Electric_1600838975287.html?spm=a2700.details.0.0.5536138d2AnG1u)
China cycling on the ERX: https://youtu.be/3NYBpuYw9js (https://youtu.be/3NYBpuYw9js)
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ER9 pricing isn’t bad. Not sure I consider $575 for the carbon version much of a steal when Shimano 105 can be had for around $700 these days. But just under $450 for an electronic group is tempting.
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It's around 900 usd for EU on Ali
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Performance and reliability aside, it's just not worth it...yet. A full 105 di2 can be had for like $1250 usd
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I have done a few transactions on Alibaba and I would be surprised if the total cost of er9 is less than $500 to your door if you live in a western country. Its often cheaper to buy things on Aliexpress simply because sellers on Alibaba are passing all the fees on to you. A recent purchase of 50 garmin inserts for example was $20 cheaper on Aliexpress than Alibaba from the same seller.
Given that my target price for batteries, RD, FD, and shifters/brakes for Rival AXS is ~$700, I dont think I am in the market for er9 or ERX either given that warranty support is important for groupsets.
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Groupsets and wheels are the two things you really should not skimp on. Basically any moving or electronic components.
Framesets, handlebars/stem, saddles, and any other static parts can be had for cheap without really posing any risks to safety or reliability.
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ER9 pricing isn’t bad. Not sure I consider $575 for the carbon version much of a steal when Shimano 105 can be had for around $700 these days. But just under $450 for an electronic group is tempting.
Yea, it's so cheap that it's worth a try. The review of ChinaCycling does look good to me. Interestingly, on his reviews on the china bike show he mentioned that it is good to wait for the second version of a groupset. In general, the manufacturers tend to rule out the problems of the first version.
I'm also wondering, how are these groupsets patent wise? Are components illegal copies of other groupsets?
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it actually looks better than the new Campy.
I wonder how the weight is for the ERX, but for the same price you could buy Sram Force.
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Considering I can probably get into Sram Rival AXS for around $900.00 +/- not sure that I'd want to take the chance on a cheaper chinese electro set. I would on the other had try out the mechanical LTWOO graevel 1X12 set that TraceVelo loved.
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Considering I can probably get into Sram Rival AXS for around $900.00 +/- not sure that I'd want to take the chance on a cheaper chinese electro set. I would on the other had try out the mechanical LTWOO graevel 1X12 set that TraceVelo loved.
If we're comparing against SRAM, LTWOO's ERX is actually lighter than even SRAM Force for the same parts.
https://www.pandapodium.cc/2023/04/30/shimano-105-di2-killer-l-twoo-erx-groupset-first-look/ (https://www.pandapodium.cc/2023/04/30/shimano-105-di2-killer-l-twoo-erx-groupset-first-look/)
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Yea, it's so cheap that it's worth a try. The review of ChinaCycling does look good to me. Interestingly, on his reviews on the china bike show he mentioned that it is good to wait for the second version of a groupset. In general, the manufacturers tend to rule out the problems of the first version.
I'm also wondering, how are these groupsets patent wise? Are components illegal copies of other groupsets?
https://chinapatentstrategy.com/china-top-50-case-of-2019-how-a-functional-feature-is-construed-greatly-impacts-protection-scope-shimano-kk-v-sensah/ (https://chinapatentstrategy.com/china-top-50-case-of-2019-how-a-functional-feature-is-construed-greatly-impacts-protection-scope-shimano-kk-v-sensah/)
Shimano already sued Sensah awhile back. If there are any patent issues, I'm sure Shimano or SRAM would be taking legal action by now. I have no doubt they're watching LTwoo and Sensah with a microscope. The Chinese cycling industry is getting too big to ignore.
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Groupsets and wheels are the two things you really should not skimp on. Basically any moving or electronic components.
Framesets, handlebars/stem, saddles, and any other static parts can be had for cheap without really posing any risks to safety or reliability.
For me, it's the lack of availability to me that proposes the biggest risk.
If a Shimano/SRAM/Campagnolo component on my bicycle fails, I can generally get a replacement same or next day, and in any event, it's unlikely to take longer than a week. For LTwoo/Sensah mechanical parts, the fact that they can be swapped out for SRAM/Shimano equivalents where required makes it a less scary proposition - a rear derailleur failure just means replacing it with a part from another brand.
With LTwoo electronic it's a very different story though - a failure is going to leave you waiting weeks for a replacement from China with no local alternative.
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https://chinapatentstrategy.com/china-top-50-case-of-2019-how-a-functional-feature-is-construed-greatly-impacts-protection-scope-shimano-kk-v-sensah/ (https://chinapatentstrategy.com/china-top-50-case-of-2019-how-a-functional-feature-is-construed-greatly-impacts-protection-scope-shimano-kk-v-sensah/)
Shimano already sued Sensah awhile back. If there are any patent issues, I'm sure Shimano or SRAM would be taking legal action by now. I have no doubt they're watching LTwoo and Sensah with a microscope. The Chinese cycling industry is getting too big to ignore.
Good to know. It is interesting that ChinaCycling started the PandaPodium website. It is a big move for the cycling industry, but he might end up being sued for reselling these products. I might try the electronic groupset one day. Buy it, before it's removed from the market lololol.
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Got quoted $559 for the eR9 group shipped to the US. Not terrible, but I’d probably wait still.
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I guess the saving grace of it being such a close to a 105 Di2 copy is that they've copied a time-proven design. It's not like they've created something from scratch leaving alot of room for error. My guess is that there may be problems with the app and firmware more than the physical units but that's just a guess. I'm also very interested in this but may wait for the second version, although er9 is tempting for the price
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If you spec the ERX version to pair with Shimano Ultegra-level components (crank, chain, cassette, rotors) you are looking at around $1500 which is still cheaper than a complete 105 Di2 yet much lighter.
GC Performance latest video shows the ERX being comparable in weight to Sram eTap Red. And in general, Di2 is lighter than eTap.
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At least for wired Di2, Shimano's patents can't have all that many years left.
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If you spec the ERX version to pair with Shimano Ultegra-level components (crank, chain, cassette, rotors) you are looking at around $1500 which is still cheaper than a complete 105 Di2 yet much lighter.
GC Performance latest video shows the ERX being comparable in weight to Sram eTap Red. And in general, Di2 is lighter than eTap.
That would be a great setup
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If you spec the ERX version to pair with Shimano Ultegra-level components (crank, chain, cassette, rotors) you are looking at around $1500 which is still cheaper than a complete 105 Di2 yet much lighter.
GC Performance latest video shows the ERX being comparable in weight to Sram eTap Red. And in general, Di2 is lighter than eTap.
I dunno about retail prices in the US. I can get a full 105 Di2 group for 1100 EUR in Europe. A Sram Rival AXS upgrade kit can actually be had for less than the LTWOO kit. So unless this comes down further in price, I would not take the chance.
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True, a complete 105 Di2 can be had for a little more than the LTWOO, not to mention that it's easier to get replacement parts if there's a problem with a bump or drop.
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I think I saw sellers on AliExpress offer full 105 di2 for around $1150 USD
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The LTwoo official store and the Ltwoo resellers have the ERX 2x12 and 2x11 groupsets for sale now. They all seemed to drop on AliExpress simultaneously.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805480174918.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805480174918.html)
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If you buy a sample directly from Alibaba (not aliexpress) you can get the ERX carbon set for ~610 USD shipped.
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I guess the saving grace of it being such a close to a 105 Di2 copy is that they've copied a time-proven design. It's not like they've created something from scratch leaving alot of room for error. My guess is that there may be problems with the app and firmware more than the physical units but that's just a guess. I'm also very interested in this but may wait for the second version, although er9 is tempting for the price
Problems with the app.
.. when my shimano di2 was brandnew I connected with the shimano app and guess what it did? It crashed the complete system, my bike "forgot" that it had any di2 component. Basically everything was dead. I could luckily solve the issue because the system was also trapped in the Bluetooth connection mode and the battery got empty over night... and after that everything was luckily fine again.
Issues with software and app are nothing the big brands are free of....
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I would also make sure LTWOO isn't shipping out pre-production models.
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Installation instructions for eRX:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaWp7IBWs7s
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Has anyone heard anything about external blips with ERX? Only the higher end SRAM and Shimano groupsets support them and for me this is one of the big advantages of electronic (being able to change gear on the holds or the drops).
So for me that would be a pretty big plus for ERX, the fact it supports 11 speed is also great (so can keep all my bikes using 11 speed components).
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You USA and EU folk seem to on good wicket on prices, 105 Di2 will set you back almost $2.5k AUD and SRAM AXS Rival even more. That's even if you can find stock. I haven't been trying to get hold of some SRAM AXS Rival shifters for 10 months now no joy. Second hand prices for some of this stuff is even higher than new, basically because no one has stock
$900AUD for LTWOO electronic is significantly less and potentially appealing.
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If you spec the ERX version to pair with Shimano Ultegra-level components (crank, chain, cassette, rotors) you are looking at around $1500 which is still cheaper than a complete 105 Di2 yet much lighter.
GC Performance latest video shows the ERX being comparable in weight to Sram eTap Red. And in general, Di2 is lighter than eTap.
Interesting in the video that the batteries inside the seat tube battery can be replaced. This is potentially quite a big plus. They look like AA batteries, so could be replaced out on the road if you forgot to charge/the world over.
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Interesting in the video that the batteries inside the seat tube battery can be replaced. This is potentially quite a big plus. They look like AA batteries, so could be replaced out on the road if you forgot to charge/the world over.
They are probably 18650 batteries (just guessing). But still easy to find and cheap, so a big plus indeed.
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According to ltwoo store on AliExpress, it's 2x14500 batteries (similar size to AA but different voltage).
I bit the bullet and ordered the groupset off AliExpress, including shipping it :) was $611.50USD after a coupon (JUNE24OT for $24 off) and the sitewide sale on AliExpress
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They are probably 18650 batteries (just guessing). But still easy to find and cheap, so a big plus indeed.
This store which I've bought from before, sells the ERX groupset without batteries. They said it'll ship faster without batteries, but they give a pretty detailed description on which ones to buy locally. I'm guessing you can put higher capacity batteries for longer usage.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805480272765.html? (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805480272765.html?)
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This store which I've bought from before, sells the ERX groupset without batteries. They said it'll ship faster without batteries, but they give a pretty detailed description on which ones to buy locally. I'm guessing you can put higher capacity batteries for longer usage.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805480272765.html? (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805480272765.html?)
Okay so without battery means you will still get the hollow tube shaped holder for actual batteries which are 14500 type. Any idea if the interface/wires are Shimano Di2 compatible, in case someone needs extra or longer ones? From the pictures the port does seem similar to Shimano's.
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Okay so without battery means you will still get the hollow tube shaped holder for actual batteries which are 14500 type. Any idea if the interface/wires are Shimano Di2 compatible, in case someone needs extra or longer ones? From the pictures the port does seem similar to Shimano's.
Give it a try and order the wires from somewhere with a good return policy. LTwoo doesn't advertise their compatibilities with Shimano (like having the same shifter pull ratio).
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The battery thing has me intrigued
They supply the groupset with 2x 800mAh 3.7V 14500 batteries but you can find higher capacity offerings on the market like the 1250mAh 3.7V Vapcell F12 (https://www.vapcelltech.com/h-pd-183.html)
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Okay so without battery means you will still get the hollow tube shaped holder for actual batteries which are 14500 type. Any idea if the interface/wires are Shimano Di2 compatible, in case someone needs extra or longer ones? From the pictures the port does seem similar to Shimano's.
Trace Velo's youtube video of the Ltwoo RX (of which the ERX is the electronic version) says that (the RX at least) follows the shimano standard. So it's possible they would fit. At least the brake hoses, brake pads and brake parts can be interchanged with shimano parts. Personally I would swap out the brake calipers for shimano ones. The Ltwoo calipers are a slightly unusual shape to get around shimano patents and heavier as a result.
I saw a video with china cycling talking about Ltwoo, apparently it was set up by an ex-Sram engineer who then worked as a patent lawyer for 6 years so both knows sram tech well, their patents and how to get around them which I thought was quite interesting. The shifter hoods strongly resemble sram red shifters I think.
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They are probably 18650 batteries (just guessing). But still easy to find and cheap, so a big plus indeed.
14500 batteries https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005666489670.html
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Might consider buying since locally SRAM is more expensive, just wonder if it would work with Sram K7/Cranks/Chain because I wanted to go 10T
How is the crosscompatibility between Shimano/Sram, can this groupset work with any 12v K7 from them? Also its interesting that I could use the Shimano caliper instead of Ltwoo
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Is there any information regarding the application managing eR9/eRX and their functionalities? Something like SRAM’s "enhanced shift modes" (sequential or compensating) or Shimano’s syncroshift?
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Might consider buying since locally SRAM is more expensive, just wonder if it would work with Sram K7/Cranks/Chain because I wanted to go 10T
How is the crosscompatibility between Shimano/Sram, can this groupset work with any 12v K7 from them? Also its interesting that I could use the Shimano caliper instead of Ltwoo
Shimano's upcoming gravel Di2 is meant to be using micro spline hubs (to get 10T), so that might be a better option for those wanting 10T with ERX (use micro spline wheels and cassettes), as the chain spacing should be the same as standard Shimano HG (I believe XDR chains have slightly bigger gaps)
There are people on youtube that are using Shimano cassettes with AXS and the other way round. So I would have thought ERX would technically work with XDR cassettes, but there have been reports that the shifting isn't quite as good when mixing AXS with Di2 (12 speed).
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Shimano's upcoming gravel Di2 is meant to be using micro spline hubs (to get 10T), so that might be a better option for those wanting 10T with ERX (use micro spline wheels and cassettes), as the chain spacing should be the same as standard Shimano HG (I believe XDR chains have slightly bigger gaps)
There are people on youtube that are using Shimano cassettes with AXS and the other way round. So I would have thought ERX would technically work with XDR cassettes, but there have been reports that the shifting isn't quite as good when mixing AXS with Di2 (12 speed).
I was just watching a Eurobike video on Youtube (forget which. Peak Torque??) but the LTwoo stand has a bike with ERX on display for testing and it's set up with Force AXS crankset and cassette.
Shifting on my AXS setup with Force cassette is hardly better than with R7100 and R8100 cassettes. I notice the chain is more stable when back pedaling with the AXS chain and cassette, but difference in shifting performance while riding is negligible when compared to Shimano cassettes and KMC chain.
Front shifting was also pretty solid with Praxis chainrings no matter what chain I was using, again no worse than a full AXS setup. YMMV of course, but in my experience the whole Shimano and SRAM 12 speed incompatibility is heavily overblown. Not saying everyone should start mixing components and stop worrying about component wear immediately, but IME it's no big deal. The F/R derailleur setup is the most important part. Use what you want and set it up well, it will work. I even did a few miles on a cheap $45 Aliexpress 12 speed cassette and shifting was pretty damn good.
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Has anyone heard anything about external blips with ERX? Only the higher end SRAM and Shimano groupsets support them and for me this is one of the big advantages of electronic (being able to change gear on the holds or the drops).
So for me that would be a pretty big plus for ERX, the fact it supports 11 speed is also great (so can keep all my bikes using 11 speed components).
You can get wireless blips for the entire AXS range, I had some set up on my road bike with Rival shifters previously, they're now on my gravel bike mounted on TRP Hylex brake levers.
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Do we know the weight difference between ERX and ER9?
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Is it even possible to buy the ER9 groupset anywhere yet? Im not able to find it anywhere
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I doubt there will be er9. The erx is 11 or 12 speed. Pretty sure I saw the erx in aluminum. So that is probably all the options unless they add gravel/mtb derailleurs. Be sure to watch ltwoo setup video if you buy the erx. It will get you setup way faster than just guessing. The app also has the instruction manual.
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LTWOO eR9 vs eRX weights: 55g difference (same FD & battery, 20g per shifter, 15g on RD)
Given the eR9 is materially cheaper (c.150 USD difference, which is %age terms is an enormous difference), it makes more sense.
For comparison, the weight diff between a good unbranded Chinese crankset & the carbon ones Trace Velo reviewed is about 225g for 75 USD extra.
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Seen gc performance erx update and teaser of the winspace agile.
So the erx is sleeping @15 secs. With no movement(vibration) of the rear derailleur. It seems sensitive to quickly turn back on. I guess with smooth enough roads it's possible the derailleur could turn off and you can't shift. I wonder how it acts going uphill. When going slow and not that much vibration happening will you get stuck in a gear. Basically any stop would be enough for sleep. I wonder how he was getting no front shifts but the rear was working.
As of Firmware 0.0.6
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Amazon (USA) is selling SRAM Force eTap groupsets on sale for around $800.
Levers, calipers, pre-bled hoses, both derailleurs, a set of rotors, 2 batteries, AND charger. All you need to buy is a crank, chain, and cassette.
This is a no brainer...
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Amazon (USA) is selling SRAM Force eTap groupsets on sale for around $800.
Levers, calipers, pre-bled hoses, both derailleurs, a set of rotors, 2 batteries, AND charger. All you need to buy is a crank, chain, and cassette.
This is a no brainer...
Exactly. To top it off both full 105 Di2 and Rival etap AXS full groupsets are better value at this point.
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Amazon (USA) is selling SRAM Force eTap groupsets on sale for around $800.
Levers, calipers, pre-bled hoses, both derailleurs, a set of rotors, 2 batteries, AND charger. All you need to buy is a crank, chain, and cassette.
This is a no brainer...
Almost same situation in EU. SRAM Rival is at same price than LTWOO, and Force a little bit higher. For me, no cost/risk option going for LTWOO, and at it first batch.
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Amazon (USA) is selling SRAM Force eTap groupsets on sale for around $800.
Levers, calipers, pre-bled hoses, both derailleurs, a set of rotors, 2 batteries, AND charger. All you need to buy is a crank, chain, and cassette.
This is a no brainer...
Thanks for the heads up pat! just got the SRAM Force with a 15% discount.
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Amazon (USA) is selling SRAM Force eTap groupsets on sale for around $800.
Levers, calipers, pre-bled hoses, both derailleurs, a set of rotors, 2 batteries, AND charger. All you need to buy is a crank, chain, and cassette.
This is a no brainer...
I don't like Sram at all. Starts with the D.O.T continues with the individual battery approach and most importantly don't like the shifting logic,... what you account as no brainer is therfore personal... ;D
But in general you're right , the ltwoo is currently too expensive compared to shimano and sram regarding the unknown reliability.
But give it some time.. maybe they will make a good job. The shifting with new components was very nice..i had the chance to test it on a powertrainer.
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Both Shimano Ultegra mechanical shifting groupsets R8000 (rim brake) and R8020 (hydraulic) are still tremendous values even till this day. 3 of my bikes still run Ultegra R8020, and the gear shifts are just as fast and reliable as electronic groupsets even after several thousands of miles.
Obviously having to route four cables internally is a pain, which is almost worth the electronic upgrade alone. It just seems like until LTWOO/Sensai can offer a mechanical groupset that matches the refinement of Ultegra mechanical...making the quick jump to electronic is a difficult ask for early adopters.
I still want one though, as it would make for good YouTube content ;D
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For those of us in Europe, what "deals" can you find on branded groupsets at the moment?
The eR9 retails for 3500 CNY, that's 485 $ or EUR 445.
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Did you add the VAT and inport tax to the price of Ltwoo?
Rival 1 AXS kit can be found under 700€. 2x set up is more expensive at 800-ish, 105 upgrade kit is a grand. Meanwhile, the only electric ltwoo listing I saw on Ali was over 800.
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Did you add the VAT and inport tax to the price of Ltwoo?
Rival 1 AXS kit can be found under 700€. 2x set up is more expensive at 800-ish, 105 upgrade kit is a grand. Meanwhile, the only electric ltwoo listing I saw on Ali was over 800.
Interesting. Where can you find the 2x @800 ish?
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Not sure if it is older version or something, but here's one https://www.bike24.com/p2313768.html?menu=1000,1868,1969. Granted, it doesn't include crankset, cassette and chain, but upgrade kits are pretty barebone.
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Not sure if it is older version or something, but here's one https://www.bike24.com/p2313768.html?menu=1000,1868,1969. Granted, it doesn't include crankset, cassette and chain, but upgrade kits are pretty barebone.
Thanks! Not bad at all indeed!
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I've been following this closely for an upcoming build. In Australia it's not so clear cut: Ali has the ltwoo erx (effectively and upgrade kit) for like 1100aud (shipped with gst). Best local retailer (bikebug) has rival at 2k+ (for upgrade bits and pieces) and 105 as not much better. Looking at our prices - maybe I'm wrong - but I think we're getting ltwoo a little cheaper, but sram/shim much much more expensive.
That all being said, there's a reputable seeming seller on Ali able to ship a 105 di2 full set for 1400ish, which is a fair bargain.
I am waiting to see what prices look like for the er9.
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PSA: Please please please don't buy this groupset if you're price conscious and can't afford to write the purchase off. This is not the product for someone who simply wants something that 'just works' and can't stomach the pain when something goes wrong. The software is barely 1st gen, as is the hardware and everything is subject to change in later revisions/generations. I'm excited in the eRX because the underlying foundation could truly shake up the industry but evidently there is still much to improve.
By the way, zero proper reviews exist on the Chinese side of the internet as everyone there is waiting for someone else to take the risk. Just this week someone posted about aftermarket DM hanger clearance issues (https://tieba.baidu.com/p/8442555070?pn=2). Again, don't be a guinea pig.
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PSA: Please please please don't buy this groupset if you're price conscious and can't afford to write the purchase off. This is not the product for someone who simply wants something that 'just works' and can't stomach the pain when something goes wrong. The software is barely 1st gen, as is the hardware and everything is subject to change in later revisions/generations. I'm excited in the eRX because the underlying foundation could truly shake up the industry but evidently there is still much to improve.
By the way, zero proper reviews exist on the Chinese side of the internet as everyone there is waiting for someone else to take the risk. Just this week someone posted about aftermarket DM hanger clearance issues (https://tieba.baidu.com/p/8442555070?pn=2). Again, don't be a guinea pig.
Well said. We're no longer talking about a 150 € groupset like the Sensah stuff a few years back. If it did not work, it was a small price to pay and you moved on (I was in that situation). But the price of these new groupsets is just too much to gamble with...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srxd3ibUoDU
One of the first builds I've seen with it
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Almost same situation in EU. SRAM Rival is at same price than LTWOO, and Force a little bit higher. For me, no cost/risk option going for LTWOO, and at it first batch.
I don't know if it is because I'm searching from Denmark but I can't seem to find either 105 di2 or Rival eTap AXS for nearly as little as you seem to be able to. Can you or someone else perhaps provide a link or just a site name for deals with either of the two here in the EU?
The best deals I've found so far are:
Full 105 di2 for 1150€ on bike-discount.de.
Full Rival eTap AXS (excl. rotors and BB) for 1260€ on bike-components.de
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I don't know if it is because I'm searching from Denmark but I can't seem to find either 105 di2 or Rival eTap AXS for nearly as little as you seem to be able to. Can you or someone else perhaps provide a link or just a site name for deals with either of the two here in the EU?
The best deals I've found so far are:
Full 105 di2 for 1150€ on bike-discount.de.
Full Rival eTap AXS (excl. rotors and BB) for 1260€ on bike-components.de
You have to buy it separately:
Shifters and calipers :
(Right):
https://www.alltricks.es/F-302180-freins-complets-hydrauliques-route/P-1884624-freno_de_disco_trasero_hidraulico_sram_rival_etap_axs__sin_disco?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqs6lBhCxARIsAG8YcDhdlh1gZcyl_o4LK8vO_ByIk1BDZv0NLEC8jihSUFadaE-tNkXMSToaArpGEALw_wcB
(Left):
https://www.alltricks.es/F-302180-freins-complets-hydrauliques-route/P-1885058-freno_de_disco_hidraulico_delantero_sram_rival_etap_axs__sin_disco?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqs6lBhCxARIsAG8YcDi56DIXYWTw2O4-wX6Dfwfr0TnnXgFn4YxjFXcuzlI7Zul0xnTdYUgaArqQEALw_wcB
RD:
https://www.alltricks.es/F-32741-derailleurs-arriere/P-1885162-cambio_trasero_sram_rival_etap_axs_12v__sin_bateria
FD:
https://www.alltricks.es/F-32741-derailleurs-arriere/P-1913967-desviador_delantero_de_soldadura_sram_rival_wide_etap_axs_d1__sin_bateria
Batteries:
https://www.alltricks.es/F-46290-pieces-transmission/P-254293-bateria_sram_etap_axs__red_force_rival_xx_x0_gx_reverb
Charger:
https://www.alltricks.es/F-46290-pieces-transmission/P-337106-sram_etap_battery_charger_and_cord?utm_source=effiliation&utm_medium=cpa&utm_campaign=315029215&utm_term=1395062255&eff_cpt=22332675&eff_sub1=globerada_css-64b3c5e280daf&eff_sub2=Cj0KCQjwqs6lBhCxARIsAG8YcDj_Sl2-nAkobxo5HwlJrDonUckSI7uydhEA1I7ig2AF7yvEWoZdrgcaAsKgEALw_wcB
You got the ER9 comparable groupset for EUR 780.
You can add Cassette for 100, Chain for 25 and crankset for 90, rotors for 80 and got the full system for less than you found.
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The retail price for the er9 is under 500 USD without shipping. They will start selling them in the coming weeks I'm told. Should mean 600 shipped to most jurisdictions at most. I plan to buy several in the coming weeks.
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trace velo video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJR-JQgZoXk
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Sounds like Ltwoo is getting there. If panda podium starts selling the set, then I think that's a pretty good endorsement. That being said, the price seems bit too high still for me.
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Its really interesting to view this in terms of the market. For all the places Chinese brands have been able to make inroads it's interesting that folks draw the line here. Basically if it's something that will need continued support and development.... no thanks. Heck even a mechanical Chinese groupset might not be worth it to someone who has a bike shop do their work. They might not touch it. Definitely some things to think about.
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youtube channel tracevelo put out a review of the groupset over the weekend.
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I might skip the ERX, but I do like the idea of the ER9 1x setup. Plus going LTwoo electronic solves my issue with LTwoo mechanical and it's the terrible ergonomics with the thumb shifters. I also like the change to the shadow style rear derailleur (hopefully the ER9 does the same) and the replaceable rechargeable batteries. If anything, I think there's a proven track record with Chinese manufactured electronics. Going electronic would probably be more reliable than staying mechanical in the long run.
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Have they said whether the eRX has satellite ports? I’m guessing no. Maybe for the second gen. For me, that’s one of the huge benefits of electronic shifting. And a prerequisite for me to upgrade at this point.
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Have they said whether the eRX has satellite ports? I’m guessing no. Maybe for the second gen. For me, that’s one of the huge benefits of electronic shifting. And a prerequisite for me to upgrade at this point.
I second that. If electronic shifting didn't have the advantage of being able to have the satellite shifters I'd just go for much cheaper mechanical. If you're a racer it's super nice to have them in the sprints.
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Looks like there is a manual trim mode following removal of the auto-trim:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/rFF1nYUEdJs
Also this user reports no issues with sleep mode after 2 weeks, so it seems that issue may be fixed too.
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Has anyone tested clearance for gravel in both tires and cassettes?
Does it take a 11-40? 11-42? 45mm tire?
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Took a gamble on this groupset and it's been stellar. Rode around 200 miles so far on the 11s settings and everything has been crisp. Only issue I had were some cosmetic blemishes on the rear derailleur near one of the screws.
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Has anyone tested clearance for gravel in both tires and cassettes?
Does it take a 11-40? 11-42? 45mm tire?
Tires it'd be frame dependent.
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Tires it'd be frame dependent.
Of course it is but front mech also plays a role in tire clearance. Most road groupsets can't take more than ~42mm
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Tires it'd be frame dependent.
I'd be curious if you could use a hanger extender like a Wolftooth Roadlink? The ERX appears to use a similar shadow style hanger setup now, so it could be possible push the RD to clear an 11-40t if it fits.
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I'd be curious if you could use a hanger extender like a Wolftooth Roadlink? The ERX appears to use a similar shadow style hanger setup now, so it could be possible push the RD to clear an 11-40t if it fits.
I'll be able to report on that towards the end of the year, it's a setup i plan to run with the er9.
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ERX review video in Chinese here:
https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1GN411Y7Ar/
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I'll be able to report on that towards the end of the year, it's a setup i plan to run with the er9.
[/quote
Anyone know how far away the ER9 is from being released?
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I seem to have read that the maximum rear sprocket for this group is 32 teeth, but some sellers on Ali are packaging it with an 11-34 cassette. Does anyone have any more information or practical experience with this?
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I seem to have read that the maximum rear sprocket for this group is 32 teeth, but some sellers on Ali are packaging it with an 11-34 cassette. Does anyone have any more information or practical experience with this?
I seem to recall from one of the first videos about RX hydro that it was officially max 32T but that they had people on 36T no problem. It's probably the exact same cage for eRX.
It has to be true, 32T is just really bad in 2023. i'm confident it would take 36, but how much more can it take?
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The LTWOO er9 is now available on aliexpress. Its price is listed at $565 without the box. Not too bad. Curious to see the weight.
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That price point means things start to get more interesting - particularly when you consider that you could probably get cranks / cassette / chain / rotors for around $200 extra. I look forward to seeing some people get them in person.
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That price point means things start to get more interesting - particularly when you consider that you could probably get cranks / cassette / chain / rotors for around $200 extra. I look forward to seeing some people get them in person.
It will probably be quite a bit more than $200 to get the rest of the things you mentioned, unless you're going ultra budget. $400 seems more likely for quality parts. Still, it means that a quality groupset can be had for under $1000 if LTWOO turns out to be reliable. Time will tell.
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I'm still not a buyer of LTWOO er products without remote shifters, though.
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The LTWOO er9 is now available on aliexpress. Its price is listed at $565 without the box. Not too bad. Curious to see the weight.
Get this thing at $499 with free shipping and they'll sell like hotcakes.
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It will probably be quite a bit more than $200 to get the rest of the things you mentioned, unless you're going ultra budget. $400 seems more likely for quality parts. Still, it means that a quality groupset can be had for under $1000 if LTWOO turns out to be reliable. Time will tell.
I just made an AliExpress cart of:
- Senicx PR2 DUB crank (to avoid 24mm alloy axles)
- Shimano M6100 chain
- ZTTO 12S 11-34 cassette
- 2x IIIPro centrelock rotors 160mm
And that came to 220 AUD (150 USD). I accept that there are likely higher quality options out there, but I would think that this presents a decent level of quality for Chinese products. You could even change to a Shimano 105 cassette as well and still be within budget.
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The LTWOO er9 is now available on aliexpress. Its price is listed at $565 without the box. Not too bad. Curious to see the weight.
eR9 without box or battery is $514 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005666489670.html
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eR9 without box or battery is $514 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005666489670.html
How? $617 with $64 shipping for me
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How? $617 with $64 shipping for me
It shows up as £415 inc shipping for me, which is a very tempting price. As a comparison, 105 R7020 full groupset is £440 in the UK.
I would double check which currency/location you have selected.
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How? $617 with $64 shipping for me
The 514 is excl. Vat and tax. So it will get quite a bit more expensive in the EU indeed...
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The only difference between the ER9 and ERX is basically the carbon shifters and a carbon cage? If that's the case, you can pocket the difference and find other areas to cut weight on the bike. Also does anyone know if you can swap the pulley cage for an OSPW on the ERX rear derailleur?
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I DM'd the Aliexpress store rep and they weighed two sets for me.
1510g for eR9
1500g for eRX
note he has all the packaging and cables on the scale + caveats about scale calibration.
Interestingly this would mean that the price difference between eR9 and eRX is essentially a CarbonFiber tax.
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Absolutely no way the difference is only 10 grams. Wasn't there 90 grams of difference between RX and R9 (non electronic)?
Carbon tax is a thing but if there is so little difference I don't see anyone informed buying ERX again. The seller must have forgotten the battery or something
Somebody had a concern for ER9 being software locked to 11 speed, was it confirmed it can do 11 and 12 speed?
Also, why is this thread in the Road bike section when the R9/RX thread is in the components section?
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i think i posted on this thread before the weight difference. Marketing materials from L-twoo attached.
Er9 is not locked to 11s.
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i think i posted on this thread before the weight difference. Marketing materials from L-twoo attached.
Er9 is not locked to 11s.
55g difference between the two... not much in it.
Looks like the exact same components - material change for levers and cage.
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55g difference between the two... not much in it.
Looks like the exact same components - material change for levers and cage.
And more risk of the levers braking when you fall...
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55g difference between the two... not much in it.
Looks like the exact same components - material change for levers and cage.
55g only? For the money saved, you can cut weight on other aspects of your bike (saddle, titanium bolts, bottle cages, drop bars, etc.) Though I have to admit, carbon levers feel nice.
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I pulled the trigger and ordered eR9. Along with many of you, I agree that $150 might not be worth the ~55g weight reduction. I can easily save that weight from other reasonable components. Including tax and Aliexpress coupon code, I got the set for ~$530, which makes things very interesting. I plan on staying on 11 speed so that I don't have to upgrade my relatively new cassette(s) that I bought for my bike and trainer.
I have to admit that the price of 105 Di2 is also very tempting. I had seen listing on Aliexpress ~$850 for an almost complete groupset (excluding rotors), which are no longer available. But accounting for shipping and tax, the overall upgrade cost for 105 Di2 is still much higher vs eR9, especially for someone like me who only needs to upgrade the shifter and derailleur combo.
I will try to give an update whenever I get them on my hands and do some testing. I am now eagerly waiting for them to arrive and install them on my bike.
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Has anyone noticed that the iOS app changelog states that they added 10-12speed fonction to eRX?
It would become a very interesting option for those with a itch to upgrade to electronic+hydro but who are happy with their 10sp groupset.
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Has anyone noticed that the iOS app changelog states that they added 10-12speed fonction to eRX?
It would become a very interesting option for those with a itch to upgrade to electronic+hydro but who are happy with their 10sp groupset.
Just thinking aloud here
Firmware permitting, you could pair a Rotor 10-36T 13s cassette (designed for KMC X12 chain) with 46/36 CX chainrings (https://www.bike24.com/p2233000.html) to hodgepodge yourself a 2x13 setup
The 32T advertised max RD handles 34T just fine so 36T isn't out of the question, especially with the help of a RoadLink DM (https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink-dm)
The cassette itself is the same as Rotor's 11-36T 12s cassette but with an extra 10T and needs to be mounted on its own proprietary hub (basically an extended HG)
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Just thinking aloud here
Firmware permitting, you could pair a Rotor 10-36T 13s cassette (designed for KMC X12 chain) with 46/36 CX chainrings (https://www.bike24.com/p2233000.html) to hodgepodge yourself a 2x13 setup
The 32T advertised max RD handles 34T just fine so 36T isn't out of the question, especially with the help of a RoadLink DM (https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink-dm)
The cassette itself is the same as Rotor's 11-36T 12s cassette but with an extra 10T and needs to be mounted on its own proprietary hub (basically an extended HG)
Wouldn't the firmware still need to be programmed to shift 13 cogs? It almost seems more feasible to use either an 11 or 12 speed 11-36t cassette. If 10 speed is doable as well, there are plenty of 11-36t options from Shimano, Sunrace and even Microshift. Unless you really want 13 speeds for more cadence options? Also has anyone been able to confirm if Roadlinks would fit on the ERX/9 RD?
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It's very much a hypothetical situation, but which other groupset maker would dare to experiment with 2x13 function if not L-TWOO? the big boys are more known for removing (https://fitwerx.com/converting-shimano-ultegra-6770-di2-to-11-speed/) functionality as opposed to adding
Another cassette option could involve taking a Shimano 11-34T 12s and slotting a Y0MV16100 16T and Y0MV40021 (https://dassets.shimano.com/content/dam/global/cg1SHICCycling/final/ev/ev/EV-CS-R9200-4808.pdf) or Y0NR00200 (https://si.shimano.com/ko/pdfs/ev/CS-R8100-4861/EV-CS-R8100-4861A.pdf) Spacer B between the 15T and 17T cogs, but I doubt it'd work right with the Rotor hub
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Has anyone noticed that the iOS app changelog states that they added 10-12speed fonction to eRX?
It would become a very interesting option for those with a itch to upgrade to electronic+hydro but who are happy with their 10sp groupset.
I contacted LTWOO about the 10speed function and they tell me 10speed is not supported. Not sure why the iOS changelog mentioned this
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can someone clarify which is the biggest gear range ERX can take? And does it work with any crankset/K7 combo?
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Anyone tried it with Magura or Shimano calipers yet?
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can someone clarify which is the biggest gear range ERX can take? And does it work with any crankset/K7 combo?
RD. LTWOO on their YT channel clearly said it's max 32T at the back, but some claim it can do 34T. I plan to test a range extender on the ER9, I'll report in a few months.
FD. The FD has a capacity of 16T as per their own marketing materials. "Max gear range 56T", whatever that means.
I think it can work with any crankset k7 combo, largely because they dont make their own so it's got to.
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Has anyone been curious to run Sram gearing on this group? I’m curious how the 10-x cassette would perform with a 50/37 or running 52/36,53/39…
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Quick update for those who are curious about eR9. I ordered no box and no battery. The package itself is well done.
I have bad news and good news. Let me start with the bad news to get it over with. After lots of debugging, I found out that one of the cables (short one for FD) is faulty. Initially, the front derailleur (FD) intermittently stops working and I thought it was the FD that was faulty. It turned out, connecting that cable to the rear derailleur gives the same problem, and so I concluded that it was the cable. I have contacted LTWOO store from which I bought the set and now waiting for a response.
The good news is all other components are really well-built. I was really impressed. The small hood size feels amazing on the hand. Buttons are very clicky and feel solid. The shape and reach of the levers are just perfect for the size of my hand and fingers. The texture of the rubber hood feels slightly different from Shimano, feels a little less smooth, but I like it. Since rear derailleur is fine, it shifts quickly and there is barely any noticeable delay from the moment the button is pressed to the shift. I can confirm that the trim option is there, but no auto-trimming (they removed this for patent reason).
I can also confirm that LTWOO has now enabled 10 speed option on the application. The eR9 set came out to be just slightly lighter than the quoted weight by LTWOO. See the breakdown below.
I have not installed the set on the bike yet. I was bummed that a single cable prevents me testing them on the road. This will have to wait a little while.
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Great to hear. Pity about the cable - should be an easy fix right?
Is the rear mech cage removable on the Er9? Can it be swapped out?
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Is the rear mech cage removable on the Er9? Can it be swapped out?
Yes
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Great to hear. Pity about the cable - should be an easy fix right?
Is the rear mech cage removable on the Er9? Can it be swapped out?
It's good to know that LTWOO has been responsive and will be sending new cable soon. Based on their chat, they may also be sending a new front derailleur for a good measure, so that is good. This should indeed be a quick fix. I only wished the cable is not proprietary and can be found anywhere. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with Di2 either.
The cage is indeed removable, but not quite sure if it is compatible with Shimano-compatible cages. Looking from the design, it looks like it. Don't quote me on that though. Will have to check again.
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it is not compatible with Di2 either.
Patent, almost for sure. It's not in LTWOO's interest to design proprietary stuff.
Shimano & SRAM have been locking innovations / competition via their patents for years, it's essentially patent trolling at this stage.
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It's good to know that LTWOO has been responsive and will be sending new cable soon. Based on their chat, they may also be sending a new front derailleur for a good measure, so that is good. This should indeed be a quick fix. I only wished the cable is not proprietary and can be found anywhere. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with Di2 either.
The cage is indeed removable, but not quite sure if it is compatible with Shimano-compatible cages. Looking from the design, it looks like it. Don't quote me on that though. Will have to check again.
were the cables fully plugged in like how those dream builders use a tweezer to push the cables into the derailleurs?
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A review from GC Performance. On the whole, pretty good apart from initial battery issues (now fixed).
https://youtu.be/h2PbzMyeUzA?si=_yK2JAWeyxlnuHzP
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this guy compared the shifting of Ltwoo ERX vs Dura Ace
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DAdTseyjxk
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Hi all, Im having issues whit the erx rear derailur. The derailur recognizes 11 gear as 1 gear, this means that I am not able to shift up from 11 gear to 1 gear. I have tried to reset to factory settings whit no help.
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https://youtu.be/Di0D_2SENxs?si=iFIInItlrhTJtqbZ
Yikes...
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https://youtu.be/Di0D_2SENxs?si=iFIInItlrhTJtqbZ
Yikes...
Looks like I'll be going mechanical 105 or Ultegra for the meantime lol
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While I enjoy Luke's channel, a lot of his bike issues are from user error. He's pretty much the average Joe with a YT channel when it comes to bike assembly.
He did fray his own battery connector!
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While I enjoy Luke's channel, a lot of his bike issues are from user error. He's pretty much the average Joe with a YT channel when it comes to bike assembly.
He did fray his own battery connector!
He has in the past, at least twice reported about issues that were his fault before reaching out to the brand and figuring it out... Quite sad but it reflects the average user experience.
I'm still leaning more and more towards ER9 instead of 105 for my next build, even at equal pricepoint
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I'm still leaning more and more towards ER9 instead of 105 for my next build, even at equal pricepoint
Same here. I was so hoping that er9 would be as good as it seemed. These issues make me hesitate a bit but I still I'm gonna give it a go. Let alone the fact that I can reuse my 11sp components for now. I don’t need to upgrade to 12sp like with Shimano. I don’t need to use proprietary flat top chains like with Sram. I can fine trim the LTWOO RD to work perfectly with whatever cassette. All this makes it very tempting.
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While I enjoy Luke's channel, a lot of his bike issues are from user error. He's pretty much the average Joe with a YT channel when it comes to bike assembly.
He did fray his own battery connector!
YouTuber Peak Torque recently gave me this advice: Don't make YouTube your only or primary source of income.
When you start relying on YouTube to pay your bills, it's almost impossible to be completely unbiased. And you have the potential to start rushing out videos without doing your due diligence. Case in point.
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Love me a bit of YouTuber jealousy/rivalry! Keep it comin'!
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YouTube or traditional cycling media, anything but a long term review can only ever show part of the full picture and should be treated as such. But I agree that especially YouTubers tend to get prematurely overexcited when receiving a product for review. And the need to put out as much content as possible certainly doesn’t help I imagine.
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I have had a complete nightmare with the eRX groupset. Managed to get the grand total of 1 mile on it before the rear derailleur stopped working, not a problem as these things happen. Dealing with L-TWOO support is another matter... You basically get a small window of around 5 to 10 mins at around 8AM UK time where they read and may reply to your message and then that's it, they are gone for another 24h. It's taken 6 weeks to get them to agree to send me a replacement rear derailleur. In that time I have ordered a 105 Di2 groupset from China, waited for delivery, uninstalled the eRX and installed the Di2 and ridden 120km.
Cannot recommend, the replacement still isn't here
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All these bad reports are really starting to tarnish LTwoo's reputation and is probably inadvertently affecting other Chinese groupset manufacturers (like Sensah). If anything they should be wooing the hardcore cycling enthusiast market, but it seems like they're just pissing everyone off who really wants to give them a chance.
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So sorry to read about your plight. It seems to be a common theme for the erx/er9 groupset. Shame really. Shame on ltwoo.
I think it points to a lack of testing, there’s clearly issues with this group set and at almost the same price as 105 Di2 it’s honestly pretty disappointing. I was willing to give them a go but once bitten twice shy. I won’t be installing this group set so it was just a waste of £600 ish.
I have a small ish (11k subs) non-cycling YouTube channel and I was really tempted to blast them on it as I was seeing positive reviews from the likes of Tracevelo and Kline concept which was completely at odds with my experiences but in the end I decided I just wanted to ride my new bike and couldn’t be bothered with the drama.
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All these bad reports are really starting to tarnish LTwoo's reputation and is probably inadvertently affecting other Chinese groupset manufacturers (like Sensah). If anything they should be wooing the hardcore cycling enthusiast market, but it seems like they're just pissing everyone off who really wants to give them a chance.
my thoughts exactly. i was so close to pulling the trigger on er9 and mix/match it with some other stuff i had lying around, but after a bit more reading these bad reports on here and on a few more english and german forums, instead decided to go down a di2 105/ultegra frankengroup route.
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All these bad reports are really starting to tarnish LTwoo's reputation and is probably inadvertently affecting other Chinese groupset manufacturers (like Sensah). If anything they should be wooing the hardcore cycling enthusiast market, but it seems like they're just pissing everyone off who really wants to give them a chance.
I think thats a bit too far. L-Twoo has generally made good stuff; I don't think one bad product, especially one at the bleeding edge of bike tech, throws all that away.
I'm personally still not quite sold on electronic groupsets. Yes it's more annoying to get mechanical stuff setup right but it seems a lot more failproof.
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Wasn't di2 introduced like 15 years ago? Not exactly bleeding edge lol.
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Just saying you can get Shimano 105 di2 with cransket, chain and cassette for 768€ here: https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/105-Di2-R7150-Groupset-2x12-34-50-p88663/
So maybe 100€ difference with LTWOO tax included.
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True. But one of the key selling points of LTWOO er9 for me is the flexibility it offers. I wouldn't have to upgrade my drivetrain components. I keep my lightweight 11sp cassette. I keep my chain. I keep my powermeter crankset and I only upgrade to electronic shifting. In my country, the cheapest offer for LTWOO er9 is 460 EUR. Nothing else can match that.
105 Di2 at that kind of discount is tempting, but I'd have to upgrade to 12speed and downgrade some of my drivetrain components.
There's also super cheap offers for Sram Force etap upgrade kits. But again, I'm stuck with 12 speed, I need a different freehub body, different cassette, different chain, different chainrings. So all in all these options are always significantly more expensive.
If you build a bike from scratch and have no other components lying around, I agree that LTWOO is a lot less tempting, however.
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Just saying you can get Shimano 105 di2 with cransket, chain and cassette for 768€ here: https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/105-Di2-R7150-Groupset-2x12-34-50-p88663/
So maybe 100€ difference with LTWOO tax included.
That's a nice deal (although shows up as roughly 850€, prob duo to vat difference?), I guess they have a sale because of mechanical 105 launch (which is now more expensive than Di2 counterpart).
However - lack of choice is sad. No option for 52/36 chainrings or 165mm crank arms. Buying a new crank and selling this one will result in additional cost, buying parts separately is more expensive as well
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True. But one of the key selling points of LTWOO er9 for me is the flexibility it offers. I wouldn't have to upgrade my drivetrain components. I keep my lightweight 11sp cassette. I keep my chain. I keep my powermeter crankset and I only upgrade to electronic shifting. In my country, the cheapest offer for LTWOO er9 is 460 EUR. Nothing else can match that.
105 Di2 at that kind of discount is tempting, but I'd have to upgrade to 12speed and downgrade some of my drivetrain components.
There's also super cheap offers for Sram Force etap upgrade kits. But again, I'm stuck with 12 speed, I need a different freehub body, different cassette, different chain, different chainrings. So all in all these options are always significantly more expensive.
If you build a bike from scratch and have no other components lying around, I agree that LTWOO is a lot less tempting, however.
Do you really need a new freehub for 12 speed? I thought the cassette was compatible with HG L.
I would pay slightly more for reliability per discount. Especially as you can buy replacement part easily from shimano.
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That's a nice deal (although shows up as roughly 850€, prob duo to vat difference?), I guess they have a sale because of mechanical 105 launch (which is now more expensive than Di2 counterpart).
However - lack of choice is sad. No option for 52/36 chainrings or 165mm crank arms. Buying a new crank and selling this one will result in additional cost, buying parts separately is more expensive as well
A Shimano 105 crankset is around 110€. I guess you could call this a customization premium, and it is probably only a matter of time before the price decrease further xD.
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Do you really need a new freehub for 12 speed? I thought the cassette was compatible with HG L.
I would pay slightly more for reliability per discount. Especially as you can buy replacement part easily from shimano.
You need a new freehub for Sram cassettes is what I meant. With Shimano, you „only“ need to upgrade everything to 12sp. Still, either option requires you to buy many more components than just shifters, brakes and derailleurs.
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You need a new freehub for Sram cassettes is what I meant. With Shimano, you „only“ need to upgrade everything to 12sp. Still, either option requires you to buy many more components than just shifters, brakes and derailleurs.
surprisingly you also need a 12speed cassette! :o :o :o :o
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With everyone going 12 speed and electronic, I've noticed an uptick of 11 speed Ultegra/105/GRX hydraulic shifters being sold. I already put a few bids on some shifters. After hearing all the mixed reports about LTwoo, and the fact I don't feel like buying new cranks/chains/cassettes, staying 11 speed mechanical doesn't sound like such a bad idea!
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With everyone going 12 speed and electronic, I've noticed an uptick of 11 speed Ultegra/105/GRX hydraulic shifters being sold. I already put a few bids on some shifters. After hearing all the mixed reports about LTwoo, and the fact I don't feel like buying new cranks/chains/cassettes, staying 11 speed mechanical doesn't sound like such a bad idea!
Yea I have zero appetite to go 12 speed. 11 speed works fine for me, has more choice and costs less. If I ever go electronic it will be used R8070.
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Seems like proper timing for this podcast from China Cycling to pop-up:
https://youtu.be/2kGWqQGtsxk?si=KCgoLO-0O4nLZps1 (https://youtu.be/2kGWqQGtsxk?si=KCgoLO-0O4nLZps1)
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Seems like proper timing for this podcast from China Cycling to pop-up:
https://youtu.be/2kGWqQGtsxk?si=KCgoLO-0O4nLZps1 (https://youtu.be/2kGWqQGtsxk?si=KCgoLO-0O4nLZps1)
Somewhat solidify my choice of getting mechanical for my upcoming build lol.
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I think that LTWOO electronic WILL be a good option. Not today, may be in 2 years.
I just love SRAM's AXS, and the price AND performance must be very tempting to make me jump from this wagon.
You need a new freehub for Sram cassettes is what I meant. With Shimano, you „only“ need to upgrade everything to 12sp. Still, either option requires you to buy many more components than just shifters, brakes and derailleurs.
Not strictly necessary. You can run a Shimano 12s (HG body) with SRAM AXS (I use that combo on the trainer). The issue is that you loss the 10t smallest cog (XDR is mandatory). Not a problem in the trainer, but could be an issue on road, with 46T or 48T big chainring.
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With everyone going 12 speed and electronic, I've noticed an uptick of 11 speed Ultegra/105/GRX hydraulic shifters being sold. I already put a few bids on some shifters. After hearing all the mixed reports about LTwoo, and the fact I don't feel like buying new cranks/chains/cassettes, staying 11 speed mechanical doesn't sound like such a bad idea!
Yes, there is some nice stuff for sale on second hand sites... And most of it is taken really good care off.
The last Ultegra 11sp set I bought cost me 230 for shifters / FD / RD and cassette. Add 95€ for 2 new callipers, 45 for cables and chain and you have a nice set for 370. Add a nice Ali crank for 70€ and you have a total of 440€ (or get a second hand Ultegra crank for 120€).
If you build a bike like this you can have a 7,3kg bike for less than 2.000€
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Yes, there is some nice stuff for sale on second hand sites... And most of it is taken really good care off.
The last Ultegra 11sp set I bought cost me 230 for shifters / FD / RD and cassette. Add 95€ for 2 new callipers, 45 for cables and chain and you have a nice set for 370. Add a nice Ali crank for 70€ and you have a total of 440€ (or get a second hand Ultegra crank for 120€).
If you build a bike like this you can have a 7,3kg bike for less than 2.000€
You get a new Shimano 105 11 speed for 522€ on Wiggle. It is a bit less of a hassle.
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You can run a Shimano 12s (HG body) with SRAM AXS (I use that combo on the trainer). The issue is that you loss the 10t smallest cog (XDR is mandatory). Not a problem in the trainer, but could be an issue on road, with 46T or 48T big chainring.
There is no HG 12sp cassette that is officially compatible with Sram road flattop chains, as far as I', aware. It's gonna work and it's gonna shift fine, I guess. But in theory the rollers and the ramping of the teeth don't fit together 100% resulting in accelerated wear. Most people seem to consider it a non issue, however.
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There is no HG 12sp cassette that is officially compatible with Sram road flattop chains, as far as I', aware. It's gonna work and it's gonna shift fine, I guess. But in theory the rollers and the ramping of the teeth don't fit together 100% resulting in accelerated wear. Most people seem to consider it a non issue, however.
Sram's own 11-44t XPLR cassette (HG freehub compatible) is officially compatible with flat top chain
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My take is that some of the criticism of Lwoo is unfair. Luke (trace Vello) admits that there was an issue with the trifox frame where the FD hangar was moving. How sure is he that the FD did not sustain damage due to this? The other issue is some persons are clearly purchasing a beta version. At the time of their purchase Ltwoo had not released hence it was not sold on their official page . Can Ltwoo be blamed for persons who were part of its beta testing, turning around and selling the product they were to test? There are simply too many variables, not being properly considered. I have 11 speed DI2 and I know there is an issue sometimes when you use the app, even after properly disconnecting, the gears won't shift. You cannot re-enter the app, because its now unable to see the device.. Took me awhile to figure out it still thinks its connected and I need to disconnect Bluetooth (Even Shimano released product has bugs)
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Sram's own 11-44t XPLR cassette (HG freehub compatible) is officially compatible with flat top chain
I haven’t made myself clear. I meant HG road cassettes which are officially compatible with flattop chains. Those don’t exist to my knowledge. But I’ll happily be corrected.
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My take is that some of the criticism of Lwoo is unfair. Luke (trace Vello) admits that there was an issue with the trifox frame where the FD hangar was moving. How sure is he that the FD did not sustain damage due to this? The other issue is some persons are clearly purchasing a beta version. At the time of their purchase Ltwoo had not released hence it was not sold on their official page . Can Ltwoo be blamed for persons who were part of its beta testing, turning around and selling the product they were to test? There are simply too many variables, not being properly considered. I have 11 speed DI2 and I know there is an issue sometimes when you use the app, even after properly disconnecting, the gears won't shift. You cannot re-enter the app, because its now unable to see the device.. Took me awhile to figure out it still thinks its connected and I need to disconnect Bluetooth (Even Shimano released product has bugs)
I am pretty sure in terms of timeline GC performance bought his after Ltwoo had announced but before they started selling from their official store. There should be a reasonable expectation that the product would be up to snuff at that point and that Ltwoo would try and control the sale of test units. I know Sram and Shimano have also had test units resold; but the communication that those were test units and asking for them back are the difference between how the different companies handle the situation.
Sram and Shimano also get criticized when their groups are used with non official components or are attached to frames that violate their published frame fit specs, which is why documentation is really important. Shimano does a meh job of this, but Ltwoo's is nonexistent. Those things should also include install documentation on how to prevent / minimize damage from moving or adjusting the front mech.
Additionally, I do think there is something to the somewhat charged language and frustration around customers being used as beta testers by these Chinese brands. They absolutely need a culture shift around their engineering to better test and validate their products. Ltwoo is just the latest in a long line of these kinds of issues. Other recent examples include Craft Racing and Elite's Drive wheels. I think this is problem with how their engineers are trained, but it needs to change if you want to build something as complex as an electronic groupset and win in the market.
There is so much potential here to build groupsets that can have profiles to run nearly any modern cassette offering up an expanded choice of drivetrain components, particularly for the 1x ERG where you have simplified the problem down to rear shifting. I only wish that group had a battery that was easier to access as well as a kit to allow for the compatibility with the accessory powerline from an e-bike battery.
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I haven’t made myself clear. I meant HG road cassettes which are officially compatible with flattop chains. Those don’t exist to my knowledge. But I’ll happily be corrected.
I run Shimano 12 speed road cassettes with SRAM eTap flattop chains on both my Yishun and VeloBuild CX frame. With HG hub laced wheels. Not a single issue ever.
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I run Shimano 12 speed road cassettes with SRAM eTap flattop chains on both my Yishun and VeloBuild CX frame. With HG hub laced wheels. Not a single issue ever.
Sure. All I’m saying is that in theory it should wear out faster. People who’ve tried both could answer if it actually does.
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Sure. All I’m saying is that in theory it should wear out faster. People who’ve tried both could answer if it actually does.
Yeah I've heard a couple of times this happening exactly. Usually with guys who produce a bit of power, so probably the weaker guys aren't experiencing it.
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Also does anyone know if you can swap the pulley cage for an OSPW on the ERX rear derailleur?
Anyone got insight on the spec for the pulley cage? Have a gruppo on the way and want to maybe swap an OSPW in as well.
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Alright! I think I can now give some thoughts on my eR9 experience. I have now ridden ~400 km over a few rides, one of which was a ~125km ride. I am now using my previous Shimano 11-speed cassette. I guess my take will be similar to what Trace Velo, China Cycling and GC Performance have said; when it works, it is amazing! Shift is smooth, especially when indexed properly. I don't have any issue shifting under load. Though I am only a 70kg rider with max power of ~950W.
So far, I have not had any issue with my unit, except the faulty cable, which LTWOO sent replacement part promptly. My interaction with LTWOO on Aliexpress has been non-optimal, because of the time zone difference and they seem to reply only at certain hours of the days. So, my suggestion if anyone is running into issues is to be precise, concise and easy to understand, as they seem to be using Aliexpress translator for the communication.
A couple of things that I noticed: while the manual trim works, there is no way to switch back to the non-trimmed position, unless you go to the next chainring and back. This should be easily fixed with a firmware update. Another thing I noticed was that battery life is not that great. From a full charge, I could only get ~400km. I am not sure if this is from the battery or just because it is the first battery cycle. I will have check for the next battery cycle.
Installation of the groupset cannot be any easier than installing Shimano Di2 as they are identical, even down to the mineral oil for the brake. The only difference is the way it is bled. LTWOO has another air outlet which should make it easier to bleed. As long as you follow the instructions that LTWOO has on YouTube, you’re good. The brake also feels amazing, I don’t notice any significant difference to modulation or stopping power to a similarly well-setup Shimano brakes.
Overall, I am happy with the groupset and I certainly hope this won’t change anytime soon.
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The "Official LTWOO Store" on Aliexpress is not actually operated by LTWOO. This at least is what Joe from China Cycling said in the comments under his latest video on the whole LTWOO erx/er9 saga. So that might explain your experience with them somewhat. Just saying.
I'm not sure, but maybe it would actually be quicker and easier to file a warranty claim on the official LTWOO website? There is a section for that but that requires you to upload an invoice and enter a serial number. Not all units seem to actually have a serial number - the early ones in particular don't.
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It seems all the dead FD/RD issues with the ER9/ERX stems from the rain. LTwoo probably cut corners on weather sealing. Not sure I'd trust the new EGR especially since gravel will definitely see harsher terrain. Also that name doesn't roll off the tongue. E-GR. They should of called it the GR-E. I would just skip that groupset because it's annoying to pronounce! Haha
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The "Official LTWOO Store" on Aliexpress is not actually operated by LTWOO. This at least is what Joe from China Cycling said in the comments under his latest video on the whole LTWOO erx/er9 saga. So that might explain your experience with them somewhat. Just saying.
I'm not sure, but maybe it would actually be quicker and easier to file a warranty claim on the official LTWOO website? There is a section for that but that requires you to upload an invoice and enter a serial number. Not all units seem to actually have a serial number - the early ones in particular don't.
Now it makes sense that the store said they have to "ask the factory" to send the replacement cable. I just hope I won't have to try the warranty claim anytime soon.
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Another masochist eR9 beta tester chiming in:
As with the user above I also had sub-optimal interactions with their customers service, with typically 1 business day gaps in the reply time, so getting a replacement part which I had damaged took a total of 5 days to be dispatched.
Regarding the shifting performance, it's quite good. A few rides so far and no missed shifts or issues with the groupset not waking up.
Shifting under load up to 200w is crisp and the app integration is very good. Being able to adjust each cassette and chainring offset through the app is fantastic for setup, during my first ride I was able to whip the phone out and fine tune the trim whilst riding.
Regarding the trim function, I'm not sure if it is a result of the latest update but you can now trim in both directions (however) the trim direction is not controlled by the user. Essentially whenever you hear front chain rub, pressing shift again will trim the FD if the system determines it needs trimming, and there seems to be several steps. I.e if I shift from the 11th cog to 9th there is a trim step, then 9th to 3rd it will trim again, then the same the other direction.
Install wise it was easy, not having to run gear shift cables saves some grey hairs especially if you're fully integrated. The YouTuber Klein concept has a solid 90min install video which walks through all the steps.
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Another masochist eR9 beta tester chiming in:
As with the user above I also had sub-optimal interactions with their customers service, with typically 1 business day gaps in the reply time, so getting a replacement part which I had damaged took a total of 5 days to be dispatched.
What was the part?
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So they replaced a part that you damaged? Sounds like they did more than they had to, right?
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What was the part?
I had gotten some debris stuck into the left shifter hydraulic system, essentially i accidentally turned the plastic line plug the wrong direction then couldn't get it out without using an extractor screw. Pretty big oopsie for a lapse of concentration :'(
I paid for the replacement part since it was my bad, so it's nothing special in terms of customer service.
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I can confirm with the latest firmware update, the trim options are now more refined. The front derailleur will decide the best trim position. I also noticed that they have fixed the incorrect gear selection showing up on Wahoo. It was showing 12 speed when in fact I was on 11 speed cassette. I cannot confirm if this is also fixed on any other head unit. It is still showing that the battery is low even when fully charged. Hopefully they will fix this on the next update. Well, it looks like LTWOO is certainly working on making the groupset better and better. Kudos to them!
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For those that have installed shifters, how do you get the rubber hood cover back far enough to get access to the tightening bolts?
Also if on carbon bars how much did you need to torque them to keep them in place?
Thanks
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For those that have installed shifters, how do you get the rubber hood cover back far enough to get access to the tightening bolts?
Also if on carbon bars how much did you need to torque them to keep them in place?
Thanks
I’ve only worked on the RX12 levers. With those, I pulled the hoods back from the front where you also have to access the bleed port anyway. They are pretty firm but it was possible.
Torque wise on the integrated handlebar of the VB-R099 I didn’t need to do them tighter than 4nm. That’s my usual go to for brake levers. I go up to 6nm if necessary but usually not past that. If needed, I sometimes use grippy tape like textile tape or stuff like that where the levers clamp. On my gravel bike that greatly helped stopping them from moving.
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I’ve only worked on the RX12 levers. With those, I pulled the hoods back from the front where you also have to access the bleed port anyway. They are pretty firm but it was possible.
Torque wise on the integrated handlebar of the VB-R099 I didn’t need to do them tighter than 4nm. That’s my usual go to for brake levers. I go up to 6nm if necessary but usually not past that. If needed, I sometimes use grippy tape like textile tape or stuff like that where the levers clamp. On my gravel bike that greatly helped stopping them from moving.
Not sure I'll be able to get them back far enough. And no idea on how I'll get torque wrench on. Thanks for suggestion re: tape. I think that will help.
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Do you have access to an extended 5mm hex key?
Definitely worth the investment just for doing up shifter bolts.
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Not sure I'll be able to get them back far enough. And no idea on how I'll get torque wrench on. Thanks for suggestion re: tape. I think that will help.
Yeah long bits are what you need.
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Get a long bit for your torque wrench
Gotcha. Thanks
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@Dmgreen13 get a torque bit extension bar(https://cdn.toptul.com/comm/upimage/p-161004-00158.jpg)
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@Dmgreen13 get a torque bit extension bar(https://cdn.toptul.com/comm/upimage/p-161004-00158.jpg)
I'm just not sure how I would get it under the hoods similar to Shimano shifters. I'll get one of these and play around with it on the weekend.
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Dmgreen13, push them in after pushing back the side of the hood the bolt is located(do not insert it from above, but the side) https://www.parktool.com/assets/img/repairhelp/lever_drop_1.jpg (https://www.parktool.com/assets/img/repairhelp/lever_drop_1.jpg)
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Received my er9 groupset in the mail today. After having built a bike with RX12, im particularly impressed with the finishing quality of the RD and FD. The surface finish is very nice. It seems a bit more polished than the RD and FD that come with the RX12 groupset.
The RD does have a serial number, so it seems it's one of the later units. Hopefully, it doesn't fail on me.
Still waiting on the frame that this is going on to. I'll post an update then.
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Received my er9 groupset in the mail today. After having built a bike with RX12, im particularly impressed with the finishing quality of the RD and FD. The surface finish is very nice. It seems a bit more polished than the RD and FD that come with the RX12 groupset.
The RD does have a serial number, so it seems it's one of the later units. Hopefully, it doesn't fail on me.
Still waiting on the frame that this is going on to. I'll post an update then.
Looking forward to your experience. I have mine on partially built frame so hoping to get it finished in the next week or so and to see how it performs. I did message LTwoo about warranty support after all the YouTube videos about it failing and had no reply whatsoever so that doesn't inspire much confidence.
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ER9 came today. Checked each part and they seem really good. No batteries yet so they are yet to be tested and even I ordered No Box, all items are wrapped up pretty good and they put a lot of bubble plastic wrap. Can't wait for Chinese holiday to finish so I can finally resume ordering the final piece which is the wheelset.
Question for those who ordered No Box/No Battery specification, what batteries did you buy for the derailleur battery? Do I need to buy rechargeable batteries?
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ER9 came today. Checked each part and they seem really good. No batteries yet so they are yet to be tested and even I ordered No Box, all items are wrapped up pretty good and they put a lot of bubble plastic wrap. Can't wait for Chinese holiday to finish so I can finally resume ordering the final piece which is the wheelset.
Question for those who ordered No Box/No Battery specification, what batteries did you buy for the derailleur battery? Do I need to buy rechargeable batteries?
You will need to buy: 14500 battery capacity: 800mAh, 3.7V, 2.96Wh.
I think eBay has them cheap...but not sure if you can use a flat top with the step.
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I bought these to have ready for when my set arrives:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EBL-4-Pack-14500-3-7V-800mAh-Li-Ion-Rechargeable-Batteries/801688883
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Speaking of batteries, how tall is the LTwoo battery housing? I believe Shimano one is 18cm, wondering if LTwoo is any shorter.
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You will need to buy: 14500 battery capacity: 800mAh, 3.7V, 2.96Wh.
I think eBay has them cheap...but not sure if you can use a flat top with the step.
Flattop does not work
I know because i ordered a flat top set of batteries :)
you'll probably need to drop a fat drop of solder on the top or get 14500 batteries with nipples.
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Just received my eRX.
Installing and getting everything set up, will report back.
So far, everything really feels quality!
For those that have received the set - I got the nobox/nobattery version - the directions all talk about setting up the brakes by adding the mineral oil and stuff - but seems like the lines are already filled?
What's the strategy to connecting them, already filled, to the brifters without making a god damned mess? lol.
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Just received my eRX.
Installing and getting everything set up, will report back.
So far, everything really feels quality!
For those that have received the set - I got the nobox/nobattery version - the directions all talk about setting up the brakes by adding the mineral oil and stuff - but seems like the lines are already filled?
What's the strategy to connecting them, already filled, to the brifters without making a god damned mess? lol.
I havent built a set of ERX, but generally if you leave one end of hose connected either to the lever or caliper, very little fluid leaks out. Sort of like putting your thumb over the end of the straw. If you are using a routing kit, the tool should plug the line as well.
I prefer the Rockshox Reverb Stealth Barb Connector tool + cable liner to do the routing. If its a new frame with the liner installed or an old frame with existing hose, you just use the little tool to connect to the old line and pull the new line through. The tool is $2-$4 and well worth having around IMO.
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I havent built a set of ERX, but generally if you leave one end of hose connected either to the lever or caliper, very little fluid leaks out. Sort of like putting your thumb over the end of the straw. If you are using a routing kit, the tool should plug the line as well.
I prefer the Rockshox Reverb Stealth Barb Connector tool + cable liner to do the routing. If its a new frame with the liner installed or an old frame with existing hose, you just use the little tool to connect to the old line and pull the new line through. The tool is $2-$4 and well worth having around IMO.
That checks out - I've got a tool on the way, but it's from ali, so won't be here for a bit hehe - may have to just grab one from amazon in the meantime.
I assumed that would be the method, but I've only installed and bled hydraulics once, so didn't wanna miss anything super obvious.
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That checks out - I've got a tool on the way, but it's from ali, so won't be here for a bit hehe - may have to just grab one from amazon in the meantime.
I assumed that would be the method, but I've only installed and bled hydraulics once, so didn't wanna miss anything super obvious.
There are a few LTwoo YouTube videos on bleeding the brakes that show it well.
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There are a few LTwoo YouTube videos on bleeding the brakes that show it well.
Should have done the due diligence first - thanks for that!
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Oh man, watching that installation video is pretty good!
Weirdly, I didn't get a sleeve to help mount the battery in the seat tube. *shrug* guess I'll just wrap some electrical tape to get it to stick?
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Oh man, watching that installation video is pretty good!
Weirdly, I didn't get a sleeve to help mount the battery in the seat tube. *shrug* guess I'll just wrap some electrical tape to get it to stick?
No I just used some tape and packing foam my bike came in. Have done similar on other Shimano batteries in the past and it works fine.
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YOu can disconnect the brifters from the lines and no fluid will come out- just do it with the levers not installed on the bars so you can orient their position relative to the calipers and keep the connection pointed towards the ceiling as you disconnect. Removing the brake pads and putting in spacers is key as is not squeezing the lever when it's disconnected:)
Once the hose is cut and re-barbed (push the olive ALL the way to the end and ensure it stays there otherwise if messes up the caliper port), tighten back up (you need an 8 & a 10 at the same time) and give it a pump.
Leave this connnected, bring the caliper above the levers (or vice versa) and then unscrew the caliper bleed port and attach a syringe with 50mm or so of oil already in it. Screw in finger tight.
Now turn the fill port open, and put a cup there about 30% full of fluid. Pump a few more times, now push in the syringe very slowly. Knock on the caliper and brifter as well as the lines esp near the caliper and where there are turns with a rubber hammer or screwdriver handle.
Now comes the important part! It's vacuum, not pressure which bleeds brakes. The system is normally at STP so there's always air in the system. Using a vacuum you can pull out much more air including that dissolved in the fluid (at STP) for a really great feel. Pull very slowly and see the bubbles come out of suspension. Let it rest a minute and get all the bubbles to the top of the syringe before preceeding again until there's no bubbles for at least two syringe strokes at the cup or in the syringe under vacuum.
Now, seal the brifter first, then put it below the caliper. Now undo the sryinge and you're done! Take a ride very slowly and pump esp over bumps. Make sure the feel doesn't change and you're done! Brakes fillers don't need "manstrength" (I'm female) btw, just slight torque not much at all esp at the brifters. More or less the same with connectors- I do them to maybe 5nm (by feel).
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No I just used some tape and packing foam my bike came in. Have done similar on other Shimano batteries in the past and it works fine.
Installing brifters tonight, I can't remember where I read that the lines are already filled with mineral oil, maybe I'm crazy and made that up - was that the case for you?
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Installing brifters tonight, I can't remember where I read that the lines are already filled with mineral oil, maybe I'm crazy and made that up - was that the case for you?
Yes the lines are pre filled with brake oil
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Yes the lines are pre filled with brake oil
Nice, appreciate the insight!
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Was able to get everything installed - awaiting wheels to get everything positioned, but some notes on challenges I had:
- Obviously, use wrenches. I tried to use pliers because I was missing a 5mm wrench and it just made shit very hard, ended up actually backing the hose out of the olive while half-compressed and had to replace the olive.
- As a second-time hydraulic user - realized that BH90 and BH59 olives are the same, it's the needle that's different - needed to order some anyway, so now I have a full set of both lol.
- Also, even though L-twoo uses shimano-style mineral oilt and not DOT fluid, the caliper actually uses the sram-style, recessed-threaded adapter - so, my shimano bleed kit didn't do the job, had to get a new adapter to fit the caliper.
- Ended up completely draining the l-twoo oil from the rear brake through all of the hubbub, which, whatever.
- Once I actually had everything connected up, it was a fucking cakewalk - *really* love the air release in the brifter, makes topping off so easy.
I didn't introduce any air or lose any substantial fluid on the front brake, so I now have one fully bled and replaced (rear) brake with shimano mineral oil and one completely untouched l-twoo-filled (front) brake. Both feel the same, nice and responsive, smooth pull, clear stoppage at a similar travel and quick return.
Fun experience to learn by; the more I do these, the more I learn how to be tidy with the mineral oil, haha.
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Sorry if this question has been answered before but the search function didn’t help:
So which Shimano brake line standard dies LTWOO use? BH90 or BH59?
And: How exactly does the air screw in the brifter work?
Thanks!
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I bought BH59 and BH90 hardware, the BH59 needles are what matched what came with the gruppo.
In regards to the air screw: It's meant to be a "final top off" - kind of an escape valve to run a smidge more oil up and out of the line to be sure there's no air after closing the line off. They have a pretty good video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53qM8N8_hXQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53qM8N8_hXQ)
They say explicitly not to mix the fluids - but I also watched the Klein Cycling installation and he fully used Shimano mineral oil (red) to top off the brifters - I bled my entire back line out and replaced with full red, so I'm not intermingling, but I don't think there's actually any harm/risk.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32UDzOrqK2 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32UDzOrqK2)
Looks like Luke got to the bottom of his eRX issue.
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Looks like Luke got to the bottom of his eRX issue.
Not really, Luke found his FD issue was caused by his RD not behaving, (ie does not relay message to FD to shift).
Why his RD is not working properly is still a mystery. Does not appear to be water ingress or damage to RD. So Luke's theory is software/firmware issue.
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Well, right. I suppose ‘got to the bottom of’ was a poor choice. We’ll see how it holds up.
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Sorry if this question has been answered before but the search function didn’t help:
So which Shimano brake line standard dies LTWOO use? BH90 or BH59?
And: How exactly does the air screw in the brifter work?
Thanks!
Ltwoo told me BH59. I ordered some extra as I thought I'd stuff it up installing the brake lines bit miraculously didn't.
Bleeding the brakes was pretty painless following the LTwoo YouTube videos.
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Oi, yeah, you're right - I had it backwards, my bad!
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What chargers you guys use? I know the charging cables are included but I am worried about the power supply or if I just plug it in with phone charger it might die or something...
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Has anyone using eRX/er9 paired the system with a Hammerhead Karoo 2? Can't sort out the how of it all, hehe.
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What chargers you guys use? I know the charging cables are included but I am worried about the power supply or if I just plug it in with phone charger it might die or something...
I have just used standard phone charger with USB input.
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I cannot for the life of me get the RD cable through the chainstay. A cable housing is no problem. But the electronic cable plug is rather long and stiff and it seems there’s a bend in the cable entry port at the rear drop out that I just can’t get the plug to pass. What’s more is that my internal cabling tool is useless for this bc you can’t connect it to the electronic cable in any way. So I keep taping it to shift cable housing and try to pull it through from both ends. But no success. It tears off every time.
Any tips?
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I cannot for the life of me get the RD cable through the chainstay. A cable housing is no problem. But the electronic cable plug is rather long and stiff and it seems there’s a bend in the cable entry port at the rear drop out that I just can’t get the plug to pass. What’s more is that my internal cabling tool is useless for this bc you can’t connect it to the electronic cable in any way. So I keep taping it to shift cable housing and try to pull it through from both ends. But no success. It tears off every time.
Any tips?
Shrink wrap the 2 together?
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I cannot for the life of me get the RD cable through the chainstay. A cable housing is no problem. But the electronic cable plug is rather long and stiff and it seems there’s a bend in the cable entry port at the rear drop out that I just can’t get the plug to pass. What’s more is that my internal cabling tool is useless for this bc you can’t connect it to the electronic cable in any way. So I keep taping it to shift cable housing and try to pull it through from both ends. But no success. It tears off every time.
Any tips?
Can you show it via photo?
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I cannot for the life of me get the RD cable through the chainstay. A cable housing is no problem. But the electronic cable plug is rather long and stiff and it seems there’s a bend in the cable entry port at the rear drop out that I just can’t get the plug to pass. What’s more is that my internal cabling tool is useless for this bc you can’t connect it to the electronic cable in any way. So I keep taping it to shift cable housing and try to pull it through from both ends. But no success. It tears off every time.
Any tips?
It was certainly a task for me as well - there is a pretty tight turn at the end of the dropout that makes getting the length of the hard plug end of the shifting cable through difficult.
I ended up going to other way - I ran the cable guide through with some thread tied to the end of it, tied the other end of the thread to the shifter plug that will go into the batter, and then softly finessed it down into the chainstay - the thread being much more able to maneuver the positioning of the cable - and then brought it through and fished it into the bottom bracket opening.
It was a small pain, but nothing substantial, to then plug the cable into the battery in the confines of the bottom bracket opening, but i was able to get it done and then turn the frame back upside and retrieve the battery for installation into the seattube.
What a night.
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For those in EU who ordered ER9/ERX - ho3 much tax were you charged? ER9 is currently 485€ with coins, trying to figure out how much tax I'd have to pay (proper 21% or less/more?)
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For those in EU who ordered ER9/ERX - ho3 much tax were you charged? ER9 is currently 485€ with coins, trying to figure out how much tax I'd have to pay (proper 21% or less/more?)
Do you have a link for the Er9 for 485eur? Thanks
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For those in EU who ordered ER9/ERX - ho3 much tax were you charged? ER9 is currently 485€ with coins, trying to figure out how much tax I'd have to pay (proper 21% or less/more?)
It will probably be more. There is the 21% VAT, there is import tax and the shipping company will want a nice fee...
Try to find a seller that has shipping with prepaid tax? That's almost always cheaper. I've not ordered big items without prepaid tax since they changed the rules in 2021...
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Do you have a link for the Er9 for 485eur? Thanks
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMUgGy2.
Once you go to check out it is around 510€, then another ~25€ discount from coins
It will probably be more. There is the 21% VAT, there is import tax and the shipping company will want a nice fee...
Try to find a seller that has shipping with prepaid tax? That's almost always cheaper. I've not ordered big items without prepaid tax since they changed the rules in 2021...
Yes, you should be right - total cost is around 30% in taxes, at least from my experience in ordering stuff back in the past. But checking reviews on Ali, it seems like people are sometimes charged with less money than they should be. I wonder if sellers just declare the value to be under 150€, but let you pay the customs yourself?
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I paid 467,39 EUR + 13 EUR in customs fees when it arrived. I'm based in Germany.
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I paid 467,39 EUR + 13 EUR in customs fees when it arrived. I'm based in Germany.
Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn
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I cannot for the life of me get the RD cable through the chainstay. A cable housing is no problem. But the electronic cable plug is rather long and stiff and it seems there’s a bend in the cable entry port at the rear drop out that I just can’t get the plug to pass. What’s more is that my internal cabling tool is useless for this bc you can’t connect it to the electronic cable in any way. So I keep taping it to shift cable housing and try to pull it through from both ends. But no success. It tears off every time.
Any tips?
I managed to get it through. In the end it was the frame's fault really. There was some sharpish edge preventing it to go through. I rolled some very coarse sandpaper into a longish roll and inserted it like a small file and sanded it smooth. After that, I managed to pull it through upon the first try.
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I too fell into the trap of ordering flat top batteries. I can confirm that they don't work. They just about do not make contact with the pins in the battery holder. Hence, no power.
Apart from that I connected the groupset with the charger. It powered up. Pairing was super quick. Connecting the app was easy. A quick firmware update and everything works. Everything shifts as it should. I was able to set it to 11sp. It came set up as 12sp from the factory.
Still waiting for my wheelset and the right kind of batteries so it will be a while until I actually get this on the road, though.
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Man setting up the shifters is kind of PITA. I even hurt my hand just to tighten the STI bolt.
I too fell into the trap of ordering flat top batteries. I can confirm that they don't work. They just about do not make contact with the pins in the battery holder. Hence, no power.
Apart from that I connected the groupset with the charger. It powered up. Pairing was super quick. Connecting the app was easy. A quick firmware update and everything works. Everything shifts as it should. I was able to set it to 11sp. It came set up as 12sp from the factory.
Still waiting for my wheelset and the right kind of batteries so it will be a while until I actually get this on the road, though.
You should have read @strayan_rice_farmer 's reply. I was asking what batteries should I buy.
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The pictures were misleading. I just didn’t know they were flat top batteries. But whatever. I got new ones on order and the wheels won’t be here for at least another week anyway.
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The pictures were misleading. I just didn’t know they were flat top batteries. But whatever. I got new ones on order and the wheels won’t be here for at least another week anyway.
Sounds like we are on the same timeline.
My entire rig is set up and ready, just waiting for wheels which are estimated oct 15-20. We'll see when they get here!
I also *did* order a different cockpit, but it won't be here for another 2 weeks, so I'll likely disassemble the cockpit and re-reun everything in a couple of weeks lol.
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We're all on the same timeline here lol. I am also waiting for my wheelset as I just ordered them from Yishunbikes the other day. They may come a week or two.
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I paid 467,39 EUR + 13 EUR in customs fees when it arrived. I'm based in Germany.
467€ directly on aliexpress and 13€ to the post company?
Can you share which shipping method you used? I am tempted to try my own luck.
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On Aliexpress, you can get them for 400 USD free shipping with all the party code and the coupon 1035 and the store coupons with the 80 Designer Store.
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To quote a band I like:
"Father, forgive them
For they know not what they do"
Ordered ER9 from 80's designer store, paid 411€ at the checkout. Even if I get hit with full custom tax it won't be that bad.
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Oh... I just pulled the trigger. 404 USD with the store coupon [15 USD`, and 1035 coupon [35 USD`, and the 10 USD party time rebate.
I really have to control my compulsory shopping behavior...
I hope it will last me long enough so that when it is stolen, it still works by then (I just had 4 of my race bikes stolen last week...).
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Oh... I just pulled the trigger. 404 USD with the store coupon [15 USD`, and 1035 coupon [35 USD`, and the 10 USD party time rebate.
I really have to control my compulsory shopping behavior...
I hope it will last me long enough so that when it is stolen, it still works by then (I just had 4 of my race bikes stolen last week...).
ER9 or ERX? WTF that's holy cheap!
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467€ directly on aliexpress and 13€ to the post company?
Can you share which shipping method you used? I am tempted to try my own luck.
I bought it at the "80s Designer Store" as well. Since the "Official LTWOO Shop" on Aliexpress is not actually operated by LTWOO, I figured I might as well go with the best offer. What's more: I did deal with the Official Store when I ordered RX12 for a friend and dealt with them because of a warranty claim (the RD Cage was bent). As others have reported here, they're not exactly quick to communicate. Getting a spare cage shipped out was a long and tedious process. The 80s Designer Store in contrast was much quicker and easier to communicate with. Whatever that's going to be worth in the long run.
467 EUR did include shipping. The 13 EUR were customs fees. So actually, you guys got it even cheaper. Guess I should have waited a bit longer. But Alas, with Aliexpress you never really know when the best time is.
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ER9 or ERX? WTF that's holy cheap!
ER9 :) I can’t bother with carbon shifters that brake after any fall.
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Ordered today also at 410€ shippibg and taxes included
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Wow this makes me regret getting the erx a bit over a month ago, haha.
ER9 is certainly the value buy.
Oh well!
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Where are people sourcing their 14500 battery from? Doesn't seem to be too easy to find in Canada besides eBay.
No battery, no box with all the discount it is showing $398.34USD shipped still tempted but I don't have a frame for this yet...
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Fucking hell, that’s a deal.
I bought mine from Walmart (linked in this thread) and they are working great.
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Ordered today also at 410€ shippibg and taxes included
where are you located? for france, AE is showing 610 + 67eur shipping fees, on the 80s Designer Store.
Don't understand how you guys are getting it for 400Eur ich
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where are you located? for france, AE is showing 610 + 67eur shipping fees, on the 80s Designer Store.
Don't understand how you guys are getting it for 400Eur ich
AliExpress listing shows price with VAT included, but if you add the item to the cart and go to checkout, you'll see the price without VAT. Then you can use coupons and coins to get additional discount
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And a little reminder that you should order in USD and not in EUR and get a good credit card with low costs to do the conversion to EUR...
I use a Revolut card for the smaller purchases and a Keytrade Visa card for the bigger ones...
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where are you located? for france, AE is showing 610 + 67eur shipping fees, on the 80s Designer Store.
Don't understand how you guys are getting it for 400Eur ich
It was 557 but with coupons and promo codes I had the discount to 412€. I ordered a lot from AE and never payed taxes so we will see if I have to pay extra tax if it arrives but probably not. I’m located in belgium
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where are you located? for france, AE is showing 610 + 67eur shipping fees, on the 80s Designer Store.
Don't understand how you guys are getting it for 400Eur ich
Do you have the correct store?
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Ordered today also at 410€ shippibg and taxes included
Do have a link for groupset for this price?
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Here is the link
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005922459020.html
Don't forget to add coupon code 1035
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It was 557 but with coupons and promo codes I had the discount to 412€. I ordered a lot from AE and never payed taxes so we will see if I have to pay extra tax if it arrives but probably not. I’m located in belgium
Me too, it looks like there are ways some sellers find 8)
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Here is the link
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005922459020.html
Don't forget to add coupon code 1035
Perfekt. I just ordered and paid 413 USD shipped with the code 1035
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This is what I see (no box, no battery):
Summary
Total item costs
US $462.72
Saved US $64.38
- Spend & Save -US $10.00 (US $2 off every US $15 (max US $10))
- Store Coupons/Codes- US $15.00
- Promo Code - US $35.00 (1035)
- Coins - US $4.38(438 Coins)
Shipping: Free
Total: $398.34 USD
Should I jump on this? ???
Just need a frame to put this on...
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This is price I paid.
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This is what I see (no box, no battery):
Summary
Total item costs
US $462.72
Saved US $64.38
- Spend & Save -US $10.00 (US $2 off every US $15 (max US $10))
- Store Coupons/Codes- US $15.00
- Promo Code - US $35.00 (1035)
- Coins - US $4.38(438 Coins)
Shipping: Free
Total: $398.34 USD
Should I jump on this? ???
Just need a frame to put this on...
you just go for it. It's close to the price of a 11 speed mechanical Ultegra.
eRX is also on sale wtf. I wanted to buy another one but I already have eR9 and just waiting for the wheelset.
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I would choose ER9 over ERX though. Given how fragile the carbon shifters are.
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you just go for it. It's close to the price of a 11 speed mechanical Ultegra.
eRX is also on sale wtf. I wanted to buy another one but I already have eR9 and just waiting for the wheelset.
Yeah, kicking myself a bit, but alas.
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My local Shimano dealer here in the US is having a sale on 105 Di2 12sp groupsets for around $1000 usd. Not as a cheap as ER9/ERX, but in less than a year's time I would have forgotten about the extra $500 in exchange for running a proven and reliable groupset.
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you just go for it. It's close to the price of a 11 speed mechanical Ultegra.
eRX is also on sale wtf. I wanted to buy another one but I already have eR9 and just waiting for the wheelset.
You mean.... the RX12 mechanical mini groupset is almost the same price.
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Ok, I ordered the eR9 as well, paid 393€ on Aliexpress. I guess there is going to be a lot of beta testers in ~two weeks.
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You guys are really buying this stuff even when youtubers known for loving Chinese stuff gave it a red card?
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My local Shimano dealer here in the US is having a sale on 105 Di2 12sp groupsets for around $1000 usd. Not as a cheap as ER9/ERX, but in less than a year's time I would have forgotten about the extra $500 in exchange for running a proven and reliable groupset.
I will also buy a 105 di2
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Is there any way just to get the 105 Di2 shifters, calipers and the FD/RD derailleur only? You can cut weight going with an Ultegra cassette/crankset or go with an aftermarket setup.
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My local Shimano dealer here in the US is having a sale on 105 Di2 12sp groupsets for around $1000 usd. Not as a cheap as ER9/ERX, but in less than a year's time I would have forgotten about the extra $500 in exchange for running a proven and reliable groupset.
Yes.
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Been lurking on this thread for a minute. Thanks for sharing the 80s designer store! The 1035 code doesnt work in USA but i found another code that did $30 off on top of the $10 that was already off. Came out to $450... Cant wait for it to get here and i'll post up about my experience with it when it does!
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Is there any way just to get the 105 Di2 shifters, calipers and the FD/RD derailleur only? You can cut weight going with an Ultegra cassette/crankset or go with an aftermarket setup.
Yep. I just picked the shit I wanted and bought them from all random places.
Merlin, Amazon, some other random joints. Worked out way cheaper to get separates. Was planning to mix/match shimano and ltwoo but it turns out ltwoo is utter garbage. Ended up with
105 fd/rd/crankset. Good cash savings, similar performance and weight. 105 rd has same internals as DA/ultegra. Have more faith in 105 cranks vs ultegra.
Ultegra shifters and cassette. Wanted top buttons n satellites without faffing with wires to a battery) and cassette has good weight savings for the cost. Servo wave is nice vs my 105 that doesn't have it, too, but whatever.
GRX brakes (same as 105/ultegra)
DA rotors (look coolest and same price)
Made my own satellite shifters for tops n drops for like 30bucks
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This website provides 105 di2 parts in OEM packages:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/s/?keywords=105+di2+OEM
RD/FD+shifters+crankset for 595€ [you still need the battery and the cables though which adds 240€].
They had an offer where the complete Groupset was only 769€. I should have jumped on it.
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This website provides 105 di2 parts in OEM packages:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/s/?keywords=105+di2+OEM
RD/FD+shifters+crankset for 595€ [you still need the battery and the cables though which adds 240€].
I think you are missing 1 shifter for that price...
190+190+132+67 = about 580 € for shifters, brakes an FD end RD without crank
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What 11 speed 11-32t cassette would you recommend with ER9? Nothing crazy like DA/Red, I was thinking about trying SLR2 sold by Lexon store or Sunshine
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@kubackjeee yes I would consider buying it 1. It allows me not to have to upgrade from 11 speed right away 2. I reside in the Caribbean on an island named Antigua and unlike Shimano's etube software, I would not be geo-blocked. This means no need for me to have to use software to hide my ip. 3, Its cheaper than the alternatives 4. Really see no red card but more a yellow one and recently heard of a Shimano recall that were I to have one of their cranks, I would still be at a loss due to my location.
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I think you are missing 1 shifter for that price...
190+190+132+67 = about 580 € for shifters, brakes an FD end RD without crank
No because my VAT is at 7.7% so
167*2+59+118+85=596€.
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What 11 speed 11-32t cassette would you recommend with ER9? Nothing crazy like DA/Red, I was thinking about trying SLR2 sold by Lexon store or Sunshine
ultegra
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What 11 speed 11-32t cassette would you recommend with ER9? Nothing crazy like DA/Red, I was thinking about trying SLR2 sold by Lexon store or Sunshine
I would just get an Ultegra 11-32t cassette. I'm not confident with the SRoad/Spedao cassette I'm using. I bought two cassettes, the first one skipped big time on the 12t cog, so I returned it. I'm on my second cassette which is a bit better, but I'm not sure long term if the small cogs can handle the torque when going out of saddle. Normally I'm not mashing on the 12/11t cogs, but sometimes on hard sprint climbs, I do drop into high gear while on the small chainring and there might be too much torque for the cassette to handle.
I'll probably swap it out with an Ultegra cassette if it goes out.
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You guys are really buying this stuff even when youtubers known for loving Chinese stuff gave it a red card?
Well, they are only youtubers....they seems to forget how hard sram failed when starting with their electronic groupsets..i remember a race, where 5 people were sitting at the side of the road not being able to change gears with their sram, sebastian kienle had failures on racing hawaii with sram..
So, why not give LTWOO the time to get stuff done...
We are currently planning to sell these units, even with aliexpress selling it lower than we buy directly, but customers are in the market for budget custom gravel builds....and it is great for the market....we need to show shimano, that their pricing needs to be adjusted.
the low prices on the shimano di2 sets are made by the dealer ships, shimano has still their high price attitude and in europe, margins are not there....a normal bike shop buys shimano stuff cheaper online at some outlets, than referring to the official distributor...
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No because my VAT is at 7.7% so
167*2+59+118+85=596€.
That explains a lot :)
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Has anyone figured out yet what the “gear protection” and “one touch shift” options in the LTWOO companion app actually do? They don’t seem to make a difference when I shift.
Also, does anyone else also have the bug that the app shows the battery as always fully charged? I already received two firmware updates but that issue persists.
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Has anyone figured out yet what the “gear protection” and “one touch shift” options in the LTWOO companion app actually do? They don’t seem to make a difference when I shift.
Also, does anyone else also have the bug that the app shows the battery as always fully charged? I already received two firmware updates but that issue persists.
"one-touch" seems to cycle with a single button.
So for front deirauller, it just goes 1-2-1-2-1-2-1-2 regardless of the button pressed.
Fucked up my entire setup at first, lol.
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"one-touch" seems to cycle with a single button.
So for front deirauller, it just goes 1-2-1-2-1-2-1-2 regardless of the button pressed.
Fucked up my entire setup at first, lol.
[/quote
Wish shimano has a toggle function for fd to free up a button. Annoying.
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Battery level is now accurate within the app. Seems like it needed the first charge/discharge cycle to calibrate itself. Also, the sleep and wake up functionality works fine. Once the bike sits for a while, nothing happens when you click the shifter. But the slightest vibration wakes the RD back up and it shifts. So here's to hoping that the groupset doesn't fall asleep when riding on super smooth roads :)
Luckily I don't have many of those where I live.
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The only quirk I found when setting up my set was that what they call the "7" cog is acutally the "6" cog in the app.
I was calibrating and consistently the shifting was 1 off - lowest cog would stop on second to lowest and highest cog would seemingly push over past the max.
Solved this by just making a manual adjustment and shifting to 6 on the chainring and then calibrating (it says to go to the 7th) and it works swimmingly.
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The only quirk I found when setting up my set was that what they call the "7" cog is acutally the "6" cog in the app.
I was calibrating and consistently the shifting was 1 off - lowest cog would stop on second to lowest and highest cog would seemingly push over past the max.
Solved this by just making a manual adjustment and shifting to 6 on the chainring and then calibrating (it says to go to the 7th) and it works swimmingly.
Was that for 11 or 12 speed?
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12
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Does the FD of ER9 has a slight play? I have mine with a slight play lol.
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Does the FD of ER9 has a slight play? I have mine with a slight play lol.
Slight play how, like between the FD and the mount on the frame or in the positioning in the chainline?
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Slight play how, like between the FD and the mount on the frame or in the positioning in the chainline?
It's in the positioning of the chainline.
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How much play?
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How much play?
It's like a quarter of a mm of play, tho it shifts pretty nice now but I want to know if other guys are experiencing this so I can report this to LTwoo
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It's like a quarter of a mm of play, tho it shifts pretty nice now but I want to know if other guys are experiencing this so I can report this to LTwoo
I haven't seen that in my installation, but I can verify when I go out tomorrow and be a bit more discerning.
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It's in the positioning of the chainline.
Mine just got here and no play there
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For those interested weights of the er9
https://youtu.be/71En2akvLKA?si=XmAKTLIkfg4C_zO6
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For those interested weights of the er9
https://youtu.be/71En2akvLKA?si=XmAKTLIkfg4C_zO6
Comparing to Trace Velo's weight videos for ERX - shifters and front derailleur are exactly the same weight, ER9 rear derailleur is 10g heavier than ERX.
Makes ER9 look like a great deal... when it works.
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Comparing to Trace Velo's weight videos for ERX - shifters and front derailleur are exactly the same weight, ER9 rear derailleur is 10g heavier than ERX.
Makes ER9 look like a great deal... when it works.
Yea dude... the claimed weights on aliexpress descriptions were heavier than what they really were. Wondered if they did that because they wouldnt be able to sell the ERX other wise
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It's like a quarter of a mm of play, tho it shifts pretty nice now but I want to know if other guys are experiencing this so I can report this to LTwoo
I can move the FD cage by that amount if I try. But the motor or some sort of spring tension is acting against it. So there’s not really any play.
I’ve done 100k so far on er9. It works great. I wish there was a bit more tactile feedback from the shift buttons. It’s a bit hard to tell whether or not I actually pushed the button. Apart from that all is good.
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Well looks like I have an issue right now. I have DMed LTwoo official store on AliExpress and let's see what they can do.
And so far, my er9 is working well despite the issue on my FD which it has a little bit of play. I agree that the buttons needs to be a little more tactile because I can accidentally press the FD when I am climbing and nobody wants that lol
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Would anyone be interested in buying my full ERX setup? Ridden less than 1km, rear mech failed and I have a brand new unused replacement. I swapped it out for Di2 before the replacement part came in so it’s all practically brand new sat doing nothing.
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Would anyone be interested in buying my full ERX setup? Ridden less than 1km, rear mech failed and I have a brand new unused replacement. I swapped it out for Di2 before the replacement part came in so it’s all practically brand new sat doing nothing.
Where are you located, USA?
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Where are you located, USA?
Im in the UK
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Im in the UK
I might be interested, but only if there is a save and cheap option to get it to The Netherlands. I'm afraid that is a bit of a pickle given Brexit... Unless of course you are travelling to NL soonish :D
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Afraid not dude! I would love to get over there for a ride though!
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Hello, I received my groupset today. First impressions are really good. I bought the Er9 and for the price i've paid its more then i expected from the outside. After some tests everything seemed to work. I've paired the RD and FD with the app and all works good and fine.
But the problem I have is to compare my shifters with the derailleurs.
The shifters turn green when i push the inside button. I've tried everything from the installation video with the 4 and 5 sec push but it seems i can't find it to compare them. It's not that the shifters dont work cause the light flashes green.
Hopefully someone can help or explain me if i'm doing something wrong or maybe if there is anyway a problem with the shifters? I think its the shifters because the derailleurs working fine with the app.
Thanks!
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Hello, I received my groupset today. First impressions are really good. I bought the Er9 and for the price i've paid its more then i expected from the outside. After some tests everything seemed to work. I've paired the RD and FD with the app and all works good and fine.
But the problem I have is to compare my shifters with the derailleurs.
The shifters turn green when i push the inside button. I've tried everything from the installation video with the 4 and 5 sec push but it seems i can't find it to compare them. It's not that the shifters dont work cause the light flashes green.
Hopefully someone can help or explain me if i'm doing something wrong or maybe if there is anyway a problem with the shifters? I think its the shifters because the derailleurs working fine with the app.
Thanks!
I have found the issue and for now everything works great , now I have to wait for my frame and wheelset to arrive to finish the build! :)
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What was the issue?
By the way, ER9 should be around 360$ for 11.11 xD
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What was the issue?
By the way, ER9 should be around 360$ for 11.11 xD
I think i did it the wrong way , in the video they say to push the RD for 5 seconds but in practice it was much shorter.
Yes I know it will probably be this price :) , but anyway I am happy with the buying it for 410 and 30€ customs :D
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How happy is everyone with their front shifting on er9/erx?
I can't seem to get it to shift smoothly to the big ring. I think the ZRACE chainring is to blame. I'm not sure, though.
The chainrings are brand new.
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How happy is everyone with their front shifting on er9/erx?
I can't seem to get it to shift smoothly to the big ring. I think the ZRACE chainring is to blame. I'm not sure, though.
The chainrings are brand new.
I'm running mine with GRX 810 48/31 and it's actually really good and that's even outside of the range it's supposed to work with of 16t jump. Shimano chainrings are pretty nice i guess
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How happy is everyone with their front shifting on er9/erx?
I can't seem to get it to shift smoothly to the big ring. I think the ZRACE chainring is to blame. I'm not sure, though.
The chainrings are brand new.
mine shifts really fine. have you tried to tweak with the limits? I put mine on 75 on big ring
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I fixed it now and it shifts as expected. It seems to be a combination of things. My TanTan TT-X38 has the FD hanger sitting very far inboard. I’m using a SRAM Wide Axle BB30 crank which has the big ring sitting at 49mm. So particularly far outboard. And I think the er9 FD is a little bit more limited in movement compared to other FDs - mechanical ones for example. I had it at the outermost extreme setting with the high limit all the way outboard at 99 and it still wouldn’t shift well enough for my taste. But I spacered the bolt on FD hanger about 3mm further outboard and now I’m able to set it up so it shifts super smooth. So it’s more the frames fault than the groupset‘s IMO.
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What kind of brake pads besides the LTWOO pads can be used, is it the Shimano L05A? My first bike using disc brakes.
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Can someone link the right batteries for Ltwoo Electronic? Thanks!
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My 500k update on er9. I’m pleased with it. It works very well. No issues, despite a few rides in really grim weather conditions. I’ve also washed the bike quite a few times now. No problems.
I’m interested to know if someone here can compare it with other electronic groupsets. I’ve only ever ridden the last generation 11sp Ultegra Di2. But that’s quite a while ago. I wish the shifting was a bit quicker with er9, particularly when going to bigger cogs/easier gears on the cassette. The time it takes from clicking to the chain making it to the next cog sometimes feels rather slow. Especially compared to the mechanical groupsets I got on my other bikes. Also: More feedback from the shift buttons would be nice.
Other than that, no complaints.
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My 500k update on er9. I’m pleased with it. It works very well. No issues, despite a few rides in really grim weather conditions. I’ve also washed the bike quite a few times now. No problems.
I’m interested to know if someone here can compare it with other electronic groupsets. I’ve only ever ridden the last generation 11sp Ultegra Di2. But that’s quite a while ago. I wish the shifting was a bit quicker with er9, particularly when going to bigger cogs/easier gears on the cassette. The time it takes from clicking to the chain making it to the next cog sometimes feels rather slow. Especially compared to the mechanical groupsets I got on my other bikes. Also: More feedback from the shift buttons would be nice.
Other than that, no complaints.
The only direct comparison review I've seen.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DAdTseyjxk
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Found this comparison from 3 months ago "Does L-Twoo eRX really outperform Di2 Dura Ace? Battle of Budget vs premium electronic shifting" by
Klein Concept on youtube (see I am not allowed to use the direct url so you will have to search for it)
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My 500k update on er9. I’m pleased with it. It works very well. No issues, despite a few rides in really grim weather conditions. I’ve also washed the bike quite a few times now. No problems.
I’m interested to know if someone here can compare it with other electronic groupsets. I’ve only ever ridden the last generation 11sp Ultegra Di2. But that’s quite a while ago. I wish the shifting was a bit quicker with er9, particularly when going to bigger cogs/easier gears on the cassette. The time it takes from clicking to the chain making it to the next cog sometimes feels rather slow. Especially compared to the mechanical groupsets I got on my other bikes. Also: More feedback from the shift buttons would be nice.
Other than that, no complaints.
Pretty much the same experience that I have. Approaching 1000 kilometers with my er9 and I wish that buttons were more tactile because I have no idea if I already shifted or not. FD shifting is not the worst but not the best either. I don't really have any comparison but my mechanical ultegra which shifts great. It is really a gateway to electronic shifting. I hope the next version of what they make would be much nicer and improved. I also tested this in rain and always clean it with wet cloth. No issues whatsoever. My 105 di2 12 speed is on the way and I would have a perspective on what will be the difference between an established brand vs a new and upcoming brand.
Found this comparison from 3 months ago "Does L-Twoo eRX really outperform Di2 Dura Ace? Battle of Budget vs premium electronic shifting" by
Klein Concept on youtube (see I am not allowed to use the direct url so you will have to search for it)
Already watched that. Di2 were much crispier and shifts faster than LTwoo. But he is comparing the highest tier of Shimano. He should've compared to something like Rival or 105 but I doubt there would be any difference with 105 and DA. I am happy to be corrected if someone here has an experience with both groupset
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Can someone link the right batteries for Ltwoo Electronic? Thanks!
You want a 14500 Button Top battery. Should be able to get it locally wherever you are. I got the Vapcell H10 Button Top 1000mah 4 for $20 USD
My 500k update on er9. I’m pleased with it. It works very well. No issues, despite a few rides in really grim weather conditions. I’ve also washed the bike quite a few times now. No problems.
Same with me but for the eRX. About 400km now. One downside is the shifters are pretty sensitive, so if you rest your fingers on it it'll suddenly shift a couple gears, it's annoying sometimes but just takes getting used to.
Found this comparison from 3 months ago "Does L-Twoo eRX really outperform Di2 Dura Ace? Battle of Budget vs premium electronic shifting" by
Klein Concept on youtube (see I am not allowed to use the direct url so you will have to search for it)
Super super off topic, does anyone know why I can't see embedded youtube links? It's just a blank square.
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Most likely it’s the browser you’re using. I see all links fine on mobile (safari) but not on my desktop (chrome).
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Doed anyone know if the LTWOO shifters are compatible with Shimano og SRAM brake callipers? I cant get my LTWOO ER9 calliper to fit the fork on my LightCarbon frameset. Could go for the 140mm rotor, but want to see if I can get 160mm front and back. Se pictures. Other solutions are welcome
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Doed anyone know if the LTWOO shifters are compatible with Shimano og SRAM brake callipers? I cant get my LTWOO ER9 calliper to fit the fork on my LightCarbon frameset. Could go for the 140mm rotor, but want to see if I can get 160mm front and back. Se pictures. Other solutions are welcome
I think Shimano is compatible since they use mineral oil. SRAM however is not since they use DOT 5
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I’ve paired my LTWOO brifters with Campagnolo calipers. Works great. I used the Campy pin and olive on the caliper end of the brake line. Those are virtually identical with Magura so I’m sure that Magura calipers would work as well. In fact I’ve paired Magura MT8 calipers with Campy Ekar levers on my gravel bike. And the LTWOO hydraulic units in the brifters are basically Campy copies. And I’m quite sure you could pair the levers with Shimano calipers as well.
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I’ve paired my LTWOO brifters with Campagnolo calipers...
Just for fun? Or are LTWOO callipers that bad?
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I think Shimano is compatible since they use mineral oil. SRAM however is not since they use DOT 5
It is really important to not mix components for mineral oil and DOT. The reason is : the sealing material is designed to work with the corresponding fluid. Using the "wrong" fluid leads to damage in the sealing and then leakage of the hydraulic system.
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Just for fun? Or are LTWOO callipers that bad?
LTwoo calipers are bricks. I'd rather source some Shimano calipers if possible or use lightweight ZRace/IIIPro calipers.
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Just for fun? Or are LTWOO callipers that bad?
I source most of my parts used. So I collected a few parts over the years.
I had a used set of Campy calipers lying around because I ended up not using them on my gravel build. They are much lighter and look a lot sleeker than the LTWOO calipers. The front one does not need any adapter for a 160mm disc for instance. And yes, I really don’t like the look of LTWOO‘s weird „postmount to flatmount“ arrangement.
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LTwoo calipers are bricks. I'd rather source some Shimano calipers if possible or use lightweight ZRace/IIIPro calipers.
I've tried this, just wanted to warn that they aren't super great IME. I'd source shimano calipers instead.
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Heard someone pairing Ltwoo shifters with mt200 calipers. Might look into that myself. Have to be just as good if not better than the ltwoo calipers and no doubt lighter since they use those hefty adapters.
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I just finished my first ride where I did not have issues with the groupset. For anyone with an ERX / ER9 groupset, I suggest you add some ductape between the connectors for both derailleurs. After I did this, the groupset has been incredible, and is a dream to work with. Especially for that price (~500 eur).
The groupset is not able to withstand any type of moisture, but thankfully ductape does work.
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I am not convinced by all these reports on the moisture problem, honestly. Shimano / SRAM are more expensive but not that many bad reports vs total sales in my opinion and probably worth to give them a shoot instead.
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@Hubertus if you google you will see persons also complaining about issues with Shimano products eg their 105 di2, Thing is it would not be posted in these forums. Ltwoo is newer to the space and will have more bugs. Thing is I see them working on solutions. Their disadvantage is unlike Shimano, you need to wait longer for the fixes since there is no nearby outlet/dealer. Pretty much knew from day one, before jumping in, I was going to give them time to fix the major bugs
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I am not trying to add negative publicity, rather add a simple piece of truth, and a way to deal with it. Again, now that I used the tape, the groupset is working like magic.
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I am not trying to add negative publicity, rather add a simple piece of truth, and a way to deal with it. Again, now that I used the tape, the groupset is working like magic.
Did yours stop working because of moisture? Mine got plenty of rain and various bike washes. No issues. I keep my fingers crossed.
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Did yours stop working because of moisture? Mine got plenty of rain and various bike washes. No issues. I keep my fingers crossed.
Yes, 1 minute into my first ride it stopped working because of the wet environment (rainy Netherlands). Repeated this a couple of times before I realized it was due to moisture getting into the system, more specifically the connections to the cables on both derailleurs.
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When I saw that tracevelo was having was having water ingress issues with the gravel groupset I lost all faith in them fixing this. If wheeltop group is good I'll buy that, they say it's rated for ip67.
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When I saw that tracevelo was having was having water ingress issues with the gravel groupset I lost all faith in them fixing this. If wheeltop group is good I'll buy that, they say it's rated for ip67.
Or just buy something from Shimano or SRAM. My Shimano 105 Di2 groupset is on the way and I only paid for $711 for the upgrade kit. While er9 is good, I still have some doubts about it's longetivity. On my yesterday's ride, I thought my FD was failing because it won't function after a couple of presses. But it got fixed without needing any fixes and I don't know why it was acting like that.
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Yeah shimano is my current plan, but wheeltop is very competitive on weight and fully wireless. Not buying sram
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@Hubertus if you google you will see persons also complaining about issues with Shimano products eg their 105 di2, Thing is it would not be posted in these forums. Ltwoo is newer to the space and will have more bugs. Thing is I see them working on solutions. Their disadvantage is unlike Shimano, you need to wait longer for the fixes since there is no nearby outlet/dealer. Pretty much knew from day one, before jumping in, I was going to give them time to fix the major bugs
My di2 never showed any sign of water issues since 5 years. Some heavy rain rides included..The plugs are the same as for the 12x di2. For the ltwoo this seems to be more critical. Not a lot riders out there but quite a few reports about water problems.
So far: this looks very appealing, but they must improve the water protection.
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I am having issues with my Erx- randomly working/not working and being slow to respond (it's been very wet here) while working fine with the app but not the brifters (which have new batteries in them and the system is fully charged). Would you be able to describe in more detail what you did with the duct tape? Did you wrap a small piece around where it plugs into the mech or ?? I'm not quite sure how to follow your suggestion and I would LOVE to have a working set!
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I am having issues with my Erx- randomly working/not working and being slow to respond (it's been very wet here) while working fine with the app but not the brifters (which have new batteries in them and the system is fully charged). Would you be able to describe in more detail what you did with the duct tape? Did you wrap a small piece around where it plugs into the mech or ?? I'm not quite sure how to follow your suggestion and I would LOVE to have a working set!
Step 1:
Disconnect the cables from both derailleurs
Step 2:
Be absolutely sure there is no moisture in the cable or port on the derailleurs. Thoroughly inspect with a flashlight, and let it dry overnight if you want to be absolutely sure.
Step 3:
Rear derailleur: create a strip of ductape (2cm x 5cm), connect the cable and wrap it around the derailleur + cable to make a tight fit. Press down on the ductape to ensure no moisture will get in. Make sure the tape surpasses the "cup" (poor design) which fits the cable.
Front derailleur: unmount the whole unit so you have better access to the port. And repeat the process for the FD. This one of more finicky, but just try to make sure you have a reasonable connection. The FD is less likely to ingress water as the port is downward facing, whereas the RD is essentially a convex shape, waiting to pick up rain.
Step 4:
Ride!
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Step 1:
Disconnect the cables from both derailleurs
Step 2:
Be absolutely sure there is no moisture in the cable or port on the derailleurs. Thoroughly inspect with a flashlight, and let it dry overnight if you want to be absolutely sure.
Step 3:
Rear derailleur: create a strip of ductape (2cm x 5cm), connect the cable and wrap it around the derailleur + cable to make a tight fit. Press down on the ductape to ensure no moisture will get in. Make sure the tape surpasses the "cup" (poor design) which fits the cable.
Front derailleur: unmount the whole unit so you have better access to the port. And repeat the process for the FD. This one of more finicky, but just try to make sure you have a reasonable connection. The FD is less likely to ingress water as the port is downward facing, whereas the RD is essentially a convex shape, waiting to pick up rain.
Step 4:
Ride!
Can't you use some dielectric grease?
It amazes me how people keep defending Ltwoo and these groupsets with all these problems... It's not like we're talking about a 125USD Sensah mechanical groupset...
It's like buying a frame, seeing it has a crack when it arrives and saying: "I'll just put some epoxy on there and ride it, it's the cost of being an early-adopter"
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Can't you use some dielectric grease?
Never knew of its existence, but yes, you can definitely use that. I went with what I had.
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Never knew of its existence, but yes, you can definitely use that. I went with what I had.
Yeah, I discovered it because I had to use it when replacing an SD-card in my front door camera. So it is definitely fit for this purpose.
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So doe the ER9/X issues only happen to those who ride in the rain?
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So doe the ER9/X issues only happen to those who ride in the rain?
I got caught in rain once. No issues after the ride..
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Anecdotal evidence, really. But I rode my er9 again today in rain on wet roads. The bike got covered in grime. I hosed it down after the ride. Groupset keeps working. This time of the year, pretty much all my rides are wet and dirty. No issues. All these reports do make me wonder if I should take precautionary measures.
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Can't you use some dielectric grease?
It amazes me how people keep defending Ltwoo and these groupsets with all these problems... It's not like we're talking about a 125USD Sensah mechanical groupset...
It's like buying a frame, seeing it has a crack when it arrives and saying: "I'll just put some epoxy on there and ride it, it's the cost of being an early-adopter"
It’s just show the desire from many to see a viable third option behind the big two.
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With all the issues the eRX groupset is having, if you’re in the market for a cheap electronic group, The Pro’s Closet is selling Shimano Di2 at ridiculous prices. You can use their $40 off coupon for every $200 and build a full 105 Di2 for like $500 right now. Shifters are $100 each, brakes for $28, RD is $100, FD is $55, battery for $66.
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With all the issues the eRX groupset is having, if you’re in the market for a cheap electronic group, The Pro’s Closet is selling Shimano Di2 at ridiculous prices. You can use their $40 off coupon for every $200 and build a full 105 Di2 for like $500 right now. Shifters are $100 each, brakes for $28, RD is $100, FD is $55, battery for $66.
Must....resist....the...urge...to...stock up on more spare groupsets for future builds.
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Theyre NA only
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With all the issues the eRX groupset is having, if you’re in the market for a cheap electronic group, The Pro’s Closet is selling Shimano Di2 at ridiculous prices. You can use their $40 off coupon for every $200 and build a full 105 Di2 for like $500 right now. Shifters are $100 each, brakes for $28, RD is $100, FD is $55, battery for $66.
I inputted one of the big TPC promo codes that brought the total 105 Di2 savings below $400 USD, but after I entered my address it said I wasn't eligible! I was just about to pull the trigger. :-\
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Must....resist....the...urge...to...stock up on more spare groupsets for future builds.
I pulled the trigger
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With all the issues the eRX groupset is having, if you’re in the market for a cheap electronic group, The Pro’s Closet is selling Shimano Di2 at ridiculous prices. You can use their $40 off coupon for every $200 and build a full 105 Di2 for like $500 right now. Shifters are $100 each, brakes for $28, RD is $100, FD is $55, battery for $66.
These deals are just getting crazier and better. My 105 Di2 upgrade kit just came in and it's $711. Then here's a deal with much cheaper than the one I bought.
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With all the issues the eRX groupset is having, if you’re in the market for a cheap electronic group, The Pro’s Closet is selling Shimano Di2 at ridiculous prices. You can use their $40 off coupon for every $200 and build a full 105 Di2 for like $500 right now. Shifters are $100 each, brakes for $28, RD is $100, FD is $55, battery for $66.
Thanks Eddy! I also pulled the trigger no batteries left but will source that locally.
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Anyone was sucsesfull connecting the shifters to Garmin computer or watch to see the used gear?
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Can't you use some dielectric grease?
My RD started to respond slowly as well. Very likely due to moisture in the plug. I disconnected it, cleaned it, let it dry and applied some silicone grease to seal the plug from the elements. Did a 90 minute long ride today. Everything is back to normal. The RD shifts fine. I think the RD plug is most likely the scapegoat since the plug at the FD socket is facing downward and is probably a lot less likely to collect moisture. I think the plug design could easily be improved to seal better against water.
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My RD started to respond slowly as well. Very likely due to moisture in the plug. I disconnected it, cleaned it, let it dry and applied some silicone grease to seal the plug from the elements. Did a 90 minute long ride today. Everything is back to normal. The RD shifts fine. I think the RD plug is most likely the scapegoat since the plug at the FD socket is facing downward and is probably a lot less likely to collect moisture. I think the plug design could easily be improved to seal better against water.
Can you make a video showing what you did? :)
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Anyone was sucsesfull connecting the shifters to Garmin computer or watch to see the used gear?
Got mine to connect to my igs630. It takes a while for the computer to register shifts but it does it. It also shows the battery in the seatpost.
https://youtu.be/-UaqkXsHpyk?si=kU6klY6GOLyTtyO3&t=870 (https://youtu.be/-UaqkXsHpyk?si=kU6klY6GOLyTtyO3&t=870)
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I upgraded my er9 equipped bike from 11 to 12sp. I switched the groupset to 12sp in the firmware, calibrated the RD and adjusted the individual gears. But there's an issue now: Every time I shift the RD to the biggest cog on the cassette, it stays there only for a second or so and then shifts back down to the second biggest cog. I dunno why. Has anyone else had that issue?
It does that regardless of whether i control the RD with the app or with the shift buttons and regardless of whether I'm in the small or big ring up front. It almost looks like some sort of safety feature. I'm using an 11-34 cassette now. But the gears are running smooth, the RD cage is not overstretched. The upper pulley isn't touching the cassette. Obviously the big/big combination is noisier, but there's no inherent problem. No idea what's going on. I might try to restore the factory settings and see if that helps.
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Have you indexed it far enough inboard? The rear derraileur overshifts slightly then adjusts back in-line with the cog. Likely their way of improving compatibility with random third-party.
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Have you indexed it far enough inboard? The rear derraileur overshifts slightly then adjusts back in-line with the cog. Likely their way of improving compatibility with random third-party.
Interesting. It seems that the b screw adjustment was the issue. I did a factory reset. The problem persisted. I adjusted the upper pulley slightly further away from the cassette. Then the gear stayed in place when on the small ring up front. But the rd shifted back automatically when on the big ring. Likely because in the big big combo the rd pulley sits closer to the cassette and there’s more vibration. So I adjusted the b screw again setting the pulley even further from the cassette. Now it’s fine. It seems there is some sort of protective feature or a variation of crash mode? The excessive vibrations seem to cause it to avoid that gear.
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Can you make a video showing what you did? :)
Not really worth a vid, IMO. I pulled the plug, applied silicone grease in the slot where the plug sits and put it back in. It takes literally less than a minute. I washed the bike thoroughly yesterday and did spray water onto the RD and the plug deliberately. No issues. You could probably even use silicone sealant for a more permanent solution. The flakes everywhere on the pic are just little pieces of wax from the chain.
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Not really worth a vid, IMO. I pulled the plug, applied silicone grease in the slot where the plug sits and put it back in. It takes literally less than a minute. I washed the bike thoroughly yesterday and did spray water onto the RD and the plug deliberately. No issues. You could probably even use silicone sealant for a more permanent solution. The flakes everywhere on the pic are just little piecesof wax from the chain.
Good idea! With silicone sealant this would be a stable sealing I guess. If you can manage to have a proper adhesion on the plastic. That's maybe tricky.
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Has anyone using eRX/er9 paired the system with a Hammerhead Karoo 2? Can't sort out the how of it all, hehe.
Have you paired it successfully? I have my ER9 on order and plan to use it with my karoo2
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Hi all,
I’m getting sent rear derailleur number 3 now. First one stopped working all together. Second one started to fail communicating with the shifters having to oish sometimes ten times to get a reaction. Very frustrating because when the Erx group shifts, it shifts nice! Luckily they are truing their utmost to be helpful. I have ordered the mechanical R9 as a backup now.
Fingers crossed.
Martijn
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Have you paired it successfully? I have my ER9 on order and plan to use it with my karoo2
I paired it successfully with my Wahoo Roam v.1
Sometimes it's a bit slow to display the gear changes but other than that it's fine. Pairing worked instantly.
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I'm guessing they'll announce a 'final' (not final but works properly) product at SBS next year. Same I think with WheelTop and Sensah, though Sensah may miss it.
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Thanks to this thread I just ordered myself a sub 400€ er9 groupset! Thank you!
This will replace a mech 105 on my "adventure / endurance bike" which is a Canyon Endurace 7 alloy.
Anybody know what other disc brake pads can be used? I considered keeping my 105 calipers on, but thought why the hell not make it all ltwoo.
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Hi, is anyone else having issues with trimming? I adjusted the front derailleur (low and high limits), so it doesn't rub against the chain when it is shifted in one of the extreme positions (1st or 12th cog) in the rear. I am noticing, however, that the position of the front derailleur doesn't change for all intermediate gears even when pressing the shifter button for the second time. It seems to me that there are only three or four intermediate positions at the front that change depending on what gear I am in at the back. This leads to slight rubbing of the chain against the derailleur in some gears (in my case, 5th and 6th cogs are problematic when I am in the large chainring at the front).
Is this a problem with adjusting the derailleur? Maybe there is a magic button in the app that solves this problem? Any other ideas how to fix this? This seems like a purely software problem to me.
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Did anyone manage to fit an 11-34 and test it out?
Also looking to know pulley wheel dimensions and how many teeth... would change those to a purple if mine would fit
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Did anyone manage to fit an 11-34 and test it out?
Also looking to know pulley wheel dimensions and how many teeth... would change those to a purple if mine would fit
Yes, I have the 11-34 12-speed cassette with a compact chainring in the front and it works great. I think it should be possible to go even bigger.
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Yes, I have the 11-34 12-speed cassette with a compact chainring in the front and it works great. I think it should be possible to go even bigger.
what cassette are you using? 105?
Thanks
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Hi, is anyone else having issues with trimming?
Yes, I seem to be in a similar situation as you are with slight rubbing in the middle sprockets when on the big front ring. When using the trim function (i.e. pressing the front shift button a second time), the front derailleur doesn't center on the chain and instead is positioned too far to one side.
And agreed, it should be possible for L-Twoo to improve this through software. There was a recent FD firmware update (v1.12 I believe) but that didn't fix anything for me. The app has a 'Single gear fine tuning' section for both the FD and the RD; while the RD tuning works great, I haven't been able to figure out how the equivalent FD option is meant to work. There is this weird cross-hair symbol in the bottom right corner of the app screen - no idea what that does.
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Did anyone manage to fit an 11-34 and test it out?
Also looking to know pulley wheel dimensions and how many teeth... would change those to a purple if mine would fit
Same here. Recently upgraded to an 11-34 12speed cassette. I had to adjust the RD b-screw so the upper pulley sits far away enough from the cassette to not have excessive vibrations. Because otherwise the RD would not stay in gear and shift back down the cassette. I've been in touch with LTWOO and found out that this is a sort of protective feature of the groupset. Adjusting the b screw accordingly solved my issue.
Also, I complained here earlier that I found the RD slow to shift. Upgrading from 11sp to 12sp I've found that it shifts quicker now. That makes sense, because the RD moves just as quickly as before but has to travel less distance from gear to gear on a 12sp cassette compared to an 11sp one. I think despite being compatible with 11sp and 10sp, this groupset seems to work best with 12sp components.
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I wish there was a general gear shift trim feature in the app on top of the individual gear tuning, sort of like the barrel adjuster on a mechanical RD. I got it perfectly set up on the road but when I put the bike on my direct drive turbo, the indexing on that cassette is just slightly off enough in a few gears to be really annoying. But adjusting the individual gears every time I put the bike on and off the trainer is super tedious.
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I wish there was a general gear shift trim feature in the app on top of the individual gear tuning, sort of like the barrel adjuster on a mechanical RD. I got it perfectly set up on the road but when I put the bike on my direct drive turbo, the indexing on that cassette is just slightly off enough in a few gears to be really annoying. But adjusting the individual gears every time I put the bike on and off the trainer is super tedious.
What about writing that to ltwoo? I agree that's super bad. This is not only valid for the power trainer, it's also interesting when you use two wheelsets. With my mechanical Ultegra I only have to adjust with some clicks and I am done. Basically, that's an important point for me. I switch my wheels very often on my commuter. For the disc rotors I worked with shims, but for the rear derailleur I use the tension adjustment screw every time.
I was thinking about using er9 for my commuter, but somehow that's a no go then. :o
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what cassette are you using? 105?
Thanks
Yes, 105 and it works fine.
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I wish there was a general gear shift trim feature in the app on top of the individual gear tuning, sort of like the barrel adjuster on a mechanical RD. I got it perfectly set up on the road but when I put the bike on my direct drive turbo, the indexing on that cassette is just slightly off enough in a few gears to be really annoying. But adjusting the individual gears every time I put the bike on and off the trainer is super tedious.
A better alternative would be to have individual profiles within the app that you can save to. So you can just load the profile when needed.
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I was thinking about using er9 for my commuter, but somehow that's a no go then. :o
I mean you could even save various presets in the app. One for every wheelset or the trainer and just switch between indexing settings via app. Shouldn’t be too hard to implement. I’d love that. I’ll send them an email.
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I mean you could even save various presets in the app. One for every wheelset or the trainer and just switch between indexing settings via app. Shouldn’t be too hard to implement. I’d love that. I’ll send them an email.
Since yesterday when I wrote that i had the same idea. So there could be a set of different rear wheels. That would be the perfect solution. I am very curious what they reply to you.
Besides that, I hope they improve the sealing quickly on the rear derailleur plug.
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My rear derailleur stopped working as of a couple of days ago. I was starting a casual ride, and out of nowhere it stopped shifting. The motor makes a sound but no shifting happens. FD works totally fine.
The template below was shared when talking to customer service.
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I was really interested in the ER9/X, but with all these failures, I honestly can't see myself ever buying anything from LTwoo.
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The mechanical ones work fine, at least the RX12. But yeah, really disappointing how much the electronic ones fail
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Anyone else experienced this issue? Seems to happen at temperatures around 40 degrees F mid ride after sitting outside while i'm at a cafe for like an hour. The big paddle kinda stops the small paddle from releasing itself and thus the continuous shifts. Seems to fix itself though after i get home and put the bike in the house. Has so far happened twice. Emailed L-Twoo last week and have yet to hear back
https://youtube.com/shorts/1CciDVTh-U0?feature=share (https://youtube.com/shorts/1CciDVTh-U0?feature=share)
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The mechanical ones work fine, at least the RX12. But yeah, really disappointing how much the electronic ones fail
The thumb shifter is something ... well, you like it or hate it, I guess. ::).
With all the rear derailleur failures, my brain clearly says "no way". It's pretty bad, they must have underestimated the power of splashing water.
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Maybe my unit is lucky because I get caught in the rain a couple of times and it's still flawlessly working. Tho I'll be changing the groupset to 105 Di2 because I wanted a more reliable brand and I'll be using the LTwoo as a placeholder for my next project which is a Gravel bike until I score myself some SRAM Force or Rival
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The thumb shifter is something ... well, you like it or hate it, I guess. ::).
With all the rear derailleur failures, my brain clearly says "no way". It's pretty bad, they must have underestimated the power of splashing water.
I don't really mind it, but have a slight preference toward the shimano styled shifters. Sensah style is not perfect either with that super long not-so-precise push for going up 1 or 2 times ;) .
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Maybe my unit is lucky because I get caught in the rain a couple of times and it's still flawlessly working. Tho I'll be changing the groupset to 105 Di2 because I wanted a more reliable brand and I'll be using the LTwoo as a placeholder for my next project which is a Gravel bike until I score myself some SRAM Force or Rival
Sounds reasonable. The more I read about these problems with Ltwoo, the more I am happy with my purchase of the Rival (aliexpress) + GX (bike-discount) AXS combo for the Ti gravel project. Almost at the same price than the Ltwoo offering.
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The mechanical ones work fine, at least the RX12. But yeah, really disappointing how much the electronic ones fail
I'm really hoping Wheeltop or a future Sensah electronic groupset offer reliable competition. As far as I'm concerned LTwoo has dropped the ball for being an alternative electronic groupset.
I don't really mind it, but have a slight preference toward the shimano styled shifters. Sensah style is not perfect either with that super long not-so-precise push for going up 1 or 2 times ;) .
Same here I also prefer Shimano style shifting, but I've grown rather fond of Sensah shifting. The brake levers can be adjusted to be placed closer to the bars, allowing for an easier shifting throw. Also I feel Sensah shifts a bit smoother in the lower gears compared to Shimano. I would get the Sensah HRD shfiters, but I have a couple of hydro Ultegra shifters laying around I've been too lazy to install! ;D
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The thumb shifter is something ... well, you like it or hate it, I guess. ::).
With all the rear derailleur failures, my brain clearly says "no way". It's pretty bad, they must have underestimated the power of splashing water.
Yeah, who would have thought that there are people that use their bike when it rains... They could have never predicted that kind of abuse... ::)
If you design a derailleur it should even work submerged...
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Yeah, who would have thought that there are people that use their bike when it rains... They could have never predicted that kind of abuse... ::)
If you design a derailleur it should even work submerged...
Rain and washing the bike are absolutely crazy things :D.
Well, a short submersion should have no impact, but I wouldn't demand it to be fine with hours of diving.
It's a challenge to run electronic stuff in the environment. But it's not impossible. I never had issues with my di2 due to water.
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I've done around 1000k on er9 now. About 250k since I sealed the cable plug on the RD with silicon grease. It's been working flawlessly ever since. I did another wet ride and washed the bike after. No problems. I haven't done anything to the plug on the FD because I don't think that there's an issue with that connection. Ever since the latest FD firmware update the trimming function works a bit better, too. I'm quite happy with it, for the money anyway. So far, that is. :)
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Rain and washing the bike are absolutely crazy things :D.
Well, a short submersion should have no impact, but I wouldn't demand it to be fine with hours of diving.
It's a challenge to run electronic stuff in the environment. But it's not impossible. I never had issues with my di2 due to water.
Well, there is always the chance you end up in a stream or puddle up to the shins. I would expect a derailleur to keep working in those conditions...
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I've done around 1000k on er9 now. About 250k since I sealed the cable plug on the RD with silicon grease. It's been working flawlessly ever since. I did another wet ride and washed the bike after. No problems. I haven't done anything to the plug on the FD because I don't think that there's an issue with that connection. Ever since the latest FD firmware update the trimming function works a bit better, too. I'm quite happy with it, for the money anyway. So far, that is. :)
I've read your post on here the silicone grease might be the solution to protecting the RD. Still sucks though that LTwoo hasn't designed a better solution. Now someone else is having cold issues with the shifters. Maybe 2024 will be the year that all the kinks get ironed out?
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My new er9 on my alloy bike.
Was about to sell that bike and buy a "fancier" one instead. But all i needed was elecronic shifting.
The RD cable solution is ugly for now since i cant internally route it. Thought about drilling a hole into the chainstay but i'd rather not.
I love and hate it. Hate because now i have to turn my TT bike into electronic shifting with a frankenstein sram force / shimano setup. After my first ride on the blue bike I'm totally sold on electronic.
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Well, there is always the chance you end up in a stream or puddle up to the shins. I would expect a derailleur to keep working in those conditions...
And tell me ..... what is the difference from your writing to what i wrote?? Short immersion. Or do you plan to rest in a puddle?
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And tell me ..... what is the difference from your writing to what i wrote?? Short immersion. Or do you plan to rest in a puddle?
No difference ;) Just to clarify that I did not mean that you should be able to use it in a swimming pool
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It should survive a dunk in the pool! Pretty sure both AXS and Di2 are IPX7 rated (1m depth for 30 minutes) and Ive never had or heard of a water ingress issue on either. Have like 30,000+ miles on the AXS group on my gravel bike with zero failures. It gets pressure washed too. That is a really big difference vs. adding in some grease. Seems like Ltwoo needs some serious design to work to get there.
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Hello I have contacted LTWOO without response, There was a question: if anyone figured out yet what the “Gear protection” options in the LTWOO application actually is?
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Hello I have contacted LTWOO without response, There was a question: if anyone figured out yet what the “Gear protection” options in the LTWOO application actually is?
Not sure. But I think it's the crash mode. And the option in the app is probably really only there to disengage crash mode after it has automatically been engaged due to, well, a crash for instance.
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Hello I have contacted LTWOO without response, There was a question: if anyone figured out yet what the “Gear protection” options in the LTWOO application actually is?
Purpose is to prevent your drivetrain from crosschaining. If you are on the big gear at the front, you won't be able to shift your rear to the last 2 lowest gear. Same if you are on the small ring, you won't be able to shift your rear to the last 2 highest gear
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Purpose is to prevent your drivetrain from crosschaining. If you are on the big gear at the front, you won't be able to shift your rear to the last 2 lowest gear. Same if you are on the small ring, you won't be able to shift your rear to the last 2 highest gear
Perfect for people who've accidentally cut their chain one link too short!
Side note, there's a ridiculous sale for the ER9 groupset on AliExpress, 600 AUD!
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Perfect for people who've accidentally cut their chain one link too short!
Side note, there's a ridiculous sale for the ER9 groupset on AliExpress, 600 AUD!
Probably because they're about to start selling stock of a significantly revised version ...
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Probably because they're about to start selling stock of a significantly revised version ...
That's exactly what I thought.
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Probably because they're about to start selling stock of a significantly revised version ...
There will be a new iteration of ERX coming in Q1 2024:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSE-cr2lAd0
See from around 7:00 in this video. LTWOO will be holding a launch event.
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Hiall. With regard to the RD connector, I have sealed this with heat shrink tubing. Let’s see how this works. This is my 3rd RD. Works as a charm again. Hopefully three is the lucky number.
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There will be a new iteration of ERX coming in Q1 2024:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSE-cr2lAd0
See from around 7:00 in this video. LTWOO will be holding a launch event.
Presumably the revised electronic gravel hoods we saw pics of a while ago, and derailleurs with seals, for both road and gravel.
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I hope the stuff stays backwards compatible + I hope it is possible to buy individual parts somewhere.
So if something breaks a few years down the line you don't need to get a whole groupset. When I bought er9 I tried to buy the groupset without the calipers since I knew I wasn't gonna use them. But no seller was willing to sell anything but a full groupset.
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Pulled the trigger on er9 today, found on ali from the ltwoo official store , winter sale ends 1/12 for $406.18 US + tax, total $439.69 shipped sans box and battery. Purchased zitto 11-34 colorful 12 speed cassette and kmc 12 speed chain as well. Will run 1X with 48T Crank (but have 48/35 2X if I choose later) .
Was really hoping GRX would be out by now but seems still having issues with that.
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I, now have a point of comparison as I already installed my Shimano 105 Di2. Pressing the shifters with Shimano is much better since there is a feedback and has more tactility compared to LTwoo which feels like linear when you are pressing those shifters. In terms of shifting performance of RD and FD, I feel Shimano is much better because it's like you are shifting with mechanical (almost no delays) and more quieter than LTwoo. Now I see why LTwoo is much cheaper because Shimano has a much better hardware and software. Also has a much better integration with my head unit (Garmin) because my unit always detects low battery on my LTwoo. Braking feels much better with Shimano. LTwoo's brake caliper is shit
Now, I am trying to sell my LTwoo Er9 if anyone's interested because I need funds. (I plan on not selling for my Gravel bike project but I really need funds right now)
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Where I live in Europe, an er9 upgrade kit is still only two thirds of the price of the cheapest offerings for 105 Di2. For that money I think it’s a good offering (if you’re ready for some tinkering, that is - as with most cheap D2C stuff from China). But if that gap narrows considerably, I think I’d definitely go with Shimano.
As for battery life: I got around 750k out of the first charge. Some of it was in ERG mode on the trainer, though. So no shifting.
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I got my 105 Di2 upgrade kit in AliExpress for a price of LTwoo ErX. I think that is a pretty good deal already.
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I got my 105 Di2 upgrade kit in AliExpress for a price of LTwoo ErX. I think that is a pretty good deal already.
Sure. But for me at least part of going the Shimano or Sram route would be a more reliable warranty process, should any issue arise. Not sure I'd get that from Aliexpress.
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Finally installed my ER9 after sitting on it for a month. Smooth installation with no issues, the calipers actually seem pretty good quality with the ceramic pistons.
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Pulled the trigger on er9 today, found on ali from the ltwoo official store , winter sale ends 1/12 for $406.18 US + tax, total $439.69 shipped sans box and battery. Purchased zitto 11-34 colorful 12 speed cassette and kmc 12 speed chain as well. Will run 1X with 48T Crank (but have 48/35 2X if I choose later) .
Let us know how you go with er9 and the Zitto, I used the Zitto for a Ltwoo mechanical build and it wasn’t great, always had issues with the middle gear……I changed the cassette to a sram which worked amazing, shifting now is crisppppp
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I've just spent 6 days riding out to watch each stage of the Tour Down Under with my full AliExpress build, including er9 12 speed set up. 600km and 7000m of climbing and it didn't miss a beat. Still no rides in the wet but given other reported issues I added silicone around where the cables plug in to enhance the waterproofing.
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I might have missed it somewhere but how do we check the battery level of the shifters? (Cr2032)
I don't seem to see it displayed anywhere?
The app only reports the derailleur battery level.
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I might have missed it somewhere but how do we check the battery level of the shifters? (Cr2032)
I don't seem to see it displayed anywhere?
The app only reports the derailleur battery level.
I don't think that's possible. The (very brief) manual also doesn't mention anything AFAIK. Maybe this could be implemented in a future update of the companion app?
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I might have missed it somewhere but how do we check the battery level of the shifters? (Cr2032)
I don't seem to see it displayed anywhere?
The app only reports the derailleur battery level.
if i recall correctly, the light on the shifters turn red when battery is at like 20%?
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What bleeding kits does everyone use with their LTWoo groupsets? My kit doesn't fit the callipers and no store in town has a fitting kit.
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I bought the full ezmtb bleed kits from AliExpress and they had the adapters.
IIRC some YouTubers mentioned that ltwoo requires sram style adapters.
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Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out!
SG$13.86 30%OFF | LTWOO L-TWOO Hydraulic Brake Bleed Tools
https://a.aliexpress.com/_oEoeLSc
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Hi guys, am I the only one that can't access the LTWOO official store on Ali? It seems that we can see items from them but only through Choice Store (concept from Ali). The reason I am asking is that the er9 is on sale through Choice, but it won't ship to Canada.
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Hi guys, am I the only one that can't access the LTWOO official store on Ali? It seems that we can see items from them but only through Choice Store (concept from Ali). The reason I am asking is that the er9 is on sale through Choice, but it won't ship to Canada.
Seems to work on my end at least from the USA:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1101522220 (https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1101522220)
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Just in case it helps, there is also 80 Designer Store, which generally has better prices than LTWOO Official Store. For example, I'm seeing eR9 No Box No Battery for US$ 464 for at the former while US$514 at the latter. (I have no idea about their shipping policies though.)
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Yes, 80 store usually has better price, but with the current sale, er9 is down to 414USD from LTWOO via choice. That would have been a sweet deal with the 50USD coupon.
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Hi guys, am I the only one that can't access the LTWOO official store on Ali? It seems that we can see items from them but only through Choice Store (concept from Ali). The reason I am asking is that the er9 is on sale through Choice, but it won't ship to Canada.
Yeah I have this problem too in Canada. I noticed the price from the LTWOO official store is substantially lower than any other, so that's too bad.
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So I finally got the matching bleeding kit and got around to bleeding the brakes. Rear brake went completely smooth - was done in 5 minutes or so.
Front brake however - it seems like the brifter is leaking air somewhere, when I pull on a brake lever, there's a sloshing noise, similar to sound you get when you are pushing in a water bottle. The sound is coming from the top of brifter, both the oil and air screws are fully tightened. Any ideas what could be the issue? Don't have a video at the moment, apologies.
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I’ve pulled the trigger on the eR9 groupset, do you guys know if we can swap the pulley on the rear derailleur for an oversized one? And if yes wich one to your knowledge.
Looking foward to try the eR9. I have the RX mechanical and no issue with it.
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I’ve pulled the trigger on the eR9 groupset, do you guys know if we can swap the pulley on the rear derailleur for an oversized one? And if yes wich one to your knowledge.
Looking foward to try the eR9. Imalsi have the RX mecanical and no issue with it.
I believe LTwoo and Sensah rivet on their pulley cages so they're non-removable. At best you might be able to get away with 12t and 14t jockey wheels with the stock cage. I use these POM jockey wheels from Fovno with steel bearings on my gravel bike. They spin smooth with no issues even with mud and dirt:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804850728680.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804850728680.html)
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So I finally got the matching bleeding kit and got around to bleeding the brakes. Rear brake went completely smooth - was done in 5 minutes or so.
Front brake however - it seems like the brifter is leaking air somewhere, when I pull on a brake lever, there's a sloshing noise, similar to sound you get when you are pushing in a water bottle. The sound is coming from the top of brifter, both the oil and air screws are fully tightened. Any ideas what could be the issue? Don't have a video at the moment, apologies.
Oh, I mine had this issue too. I needed to replace the olive (where you connect the hydraulic hose to the shifter) and that fixed the problem. Hopefully you can figure it out soon.
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I'll post more eventually, but i bought 5 er9, i've installed 4 so far, ridden 1 over 5 rides (300+km) and i LOVE it. The app is great, calibration is easy, and you can fit 11-34T. Being able to switch between 11 and 12s in app is amazing.
Battery & cables (w/o the 2x14500 batteries). 50g
Shifters (pair) 453g. There's oil inside, as well as batteries.
RD 297g
FD 143g
Brakes w housing 351g. You end up cutting 20-40cm of housing, can't weigh much. There's oil inside.
Hardware 72g (using 160mm mounts). Subject to which bolts you use though.
Together: 1386g assuming 2 batteries weigh 20g.
I didn't buy the right bleed tool originally (ZMTB), and given there's oil in both the shifters and the housing, so far i've gotten away without bleeding the brakes, they work fine out of the box.
I used the video from Klein Concept on Youtube as a guide. Great dude.
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I have now done around 1.500 km with my er9 groupset. I had one single incident during a ride where I experienced lagging shifting with my RD where I had to push the button twice or three times to shift. I sealed the cable plug at the RD with silicone grease. I did nothing to the FD. It has been working fine ever since. After some minor tweaking here and there it does now shift very nicely. I’m very pleased with it. IMO for the money it’s a no brainer. At least in Germany I got it for around 2/3 of the price of the cheapest offering for 105Di2.
So my verdict is: I’d probably buy it again for that kind of money. BUT I dunno how it compares to 12sp Di2 or Sram Etap AXS. Never ridden any of them.
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I believe LTwoo and Sensah rivet on their pulley cages so they're non-removable. At best you might be able to get away with 12t and 14t jockey wheels with the stock cage. I use these POM jockey wheels from Fovno with steel bearings on my gravel bike. They spin smooth with no issues even with mud and dirt:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804850728680.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804850728680.html)
After I’ve checked on my rx mechanical derailleur its defenetly a set screw.
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I can unscrew the jockey wheels on my ER9. The jockey wheel is narrow wide so you need to feed the chain right otherwise it doesn't work. I'm not sure it helps with shifting to have that profile. It took me a while to realize that, hence i almost changed the pulley wheel itself before realizing i was just being thick.
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I can unscrew the jockey wheels on my ER9. The jockey wheel is narrow wide so you need to feed the chain right otherwise it doesn't work. I'm not sure it helps with shifting to have that profile. It took me a while to realize that, hence i almost changed the pulley wheel itself before realizing i was just being thick.
I guess the question was about exchanging the complete cage and not the jockey wheels. They should be replacable as they are aging and at some point must be replaced.
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Has anyone found any replacement parts yet, things like hoods for example.
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My eRX Rear Derailleur stops working during ride. Anybody have a fix?
One hour into ride, rear derailleur “crashed” in gear 12. Derailleur would not come out of 12th gear. There was noise coming from the derailleur, but no movement. Front derailleur kept working.
When I plugged the charger onto the derailleur, nothing changed. It will not come out of 12th gear so I can't recalibrate via the App. Front derailleur still working.
Is there something I can do? Do I need a new rear derailleur?
Thank you for your help!
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Is crash protection on the app on or off?
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My eRX Rear Derailleur stops working during ride. Anybody have a fix?
One hour into ride, rear derailleur “crashed” in gear 12. Derailleur would not come out of 12th gear. There was noise coming from the derailleur, but no movement. Front derailleur kept working.
When I plugged the charger onto the derailleur, nothing changed. It will not come out of 12th gear so I can't recalibrate via the App. Front derailleur still working.
Is there something I can do? Do I need a new rear derailleur?
Thank you for your help!
Do you have the version of the battery that holds batteries with tabs or springs? It's been established that the tabs version led to problems, vs i'm unaware of problems with the springs version. I would start there, because if you have the tabs version, contact LTWOO and get a springs version. The battery housing weighs nothing so shipping it to you should be super cheap for them. And in the meantime, you can add shims to increase the pressure / tension on the system.
It is unlikely that any of your group is broken, stuff typically doesnt randomly breaks just like that, especially when it's new and you weren't doing anything weird with it.
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Is crash protection on the app on or off?
Thanks for your feedback. I checked settings in the App and "Gear Protection" was "OFF." I switched it "ON" and nothing changed. The RD still makes a movement sound, but no movement. The App thinks it is in gear 10. when I try to switch up or down, the App jumps to the gear, but then switches back to gear 10 when the RD motor stops.
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Do you have the version of the battery that holds batteries with tabs or springs? It's been established that the tabs version led to problems, vs i'm unaware of problems with the springs version. I would start there, because if you have the tabs version, contact LTWOO and get a springs version. The battery housing weighs nothing so shipping it to you should be super cheap for them. And in the meantime, you can add shims to increase the pressure / tension on the system.
It is unlikely that any of your group is broken, stuff typically doesnt randomly breaks just like that, especially when it's new and you weren't doing anything weird with it.
Thanks Serge_K. I have the battery with the springs version insert. I hope you are right, and nothing is broken. I am trying to exercise warranty through "LTWOO Official Store" on Aliexpress, but so far no luck.
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I've installed 5 ER9 groups in the last 2 weeks. 1 gave me issues for some reason, but it was my fault. Make sure the limit screws are set properly, as well as the 3rd screw that sets the tension on the cage. The RD protects itself very quickly, so if any of the 3 screws are off, the cage wont shift. It's given me a new appreciation for my own incompetence and the fact that stuff usually works as long as it's installed and setup properly. During the builds i'm often thinking "this is such POS" but then an hour later, or a week later, i realize it's just me being incompetent / thick / tired.
Did you unplug and reset? battery's charged?
If you remove the wheel, does the RD shift? Are both FD & RD running the latest firmwares?
EDIT: setting the 3 screws and calibrating the gears (as well as the FD) is somewhat of an iterative process. If you change a limit screw, your calibration of the RD is likely to need updating. I wont pretend that I understand how everything affects everything, but the point is the moment you change the tension on 1 screw, there's a decent chance the rest of the system is affected. And if ONE thing is off, everything can be off, and the RD tends to protect itself and refuse shifting until it's happy with alignments and what not.
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I've installed 5 ER9 groups in the last 2 weeks. 1 gave me issues for some reason, but it was my fault. Make sure the limit screws are set properly, as well as the 3rd screw that sets the tension on the cage. The RD protects itself very quickly, so if any of the 3 screws are off, the cage wont shift. It's given me a new appreciation for my own incompetence and the fact that stuff usually works as long as it's installed and setup properly. During the builds i'm often thinking "this is such POS" but then an hour later, or a week later, i realize it's just me being incompetent / thick / tired.
Did you unplug and reset? battery's charged?
If you remove the wheel, does the RD shift? Are both FD & RD running the latest firmwares?
I second that. I've found that as soon as the RD's motor will experience excessive vibration or resistance it will stop shifting and/or shift back to it's original position. For instance, it avoided the big big chainring/casette sprocket combo when I had the RD's upper pulley set up too close to the cassette. It didn't touch. But the vibrations alone caused it to immediately shift back as soon as it went into that gear. A short tweak of the b-screw and the issue stopped.
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Has anyone found any replacement parts yet, things like hoods for example.
80 Designer Store has now put an eR9 RD listing. I am guessing we will start to see more replacement parts listed up on AliExpress.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806373886040.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806373886040.html)
edit: They also already had cables, battery holder/box and charger listed for quite a while.
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If using the silicone grease method to protect the RD cable, has the ER9/ERX groupset gone through enough manufacturing revisions to be recommended (by users on here)? It looks like most of the kinks have been ironed out and if the silicone grease does indeed enhance weather protection, one could just buy a backup battery/cable set off 80 Design Store for $20 USD and the rest of the components should be solid.
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What about the heat shrink tubes? They are waterproof and they sure protect from water entering the RD?
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The cable plugs into a slight indent. I don't think there's enough space for shrink wrap to work properly.
I coat liquid electrical tape around the indent to form a waterproof seal and it's been solid.
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My eRX Rear Derailleur stops working during ride. Anybody have a fix?
One hour into ride, rear derailleur “crashed” in gear 12. Derailleur would not come out of 12th gear. There was noise coming from the derailleur, but no movement. Front derailleur kept working.
When I plugged the charger onto the derailleur, nothing changed. It will not come out of 12th gear so I can't recalibrate via the App. Front derailleur still working.
Is there something I can do? Do I need a new rear derailleur?
Thank you for your help!
Did you work this out?
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Because i'm intellectually challenged, i went for a ride and the battery of the er9 died on me. Folks, don't forget to charge your group regularly, please be smarter than me :)
I am not using the original l-twoo batteries because of problems with shipping lithium internationally, so i bought what i found, and the capacity of the cells i found is SHIT. Therefore, i think i can get 500km autonomy or so. This is, afaik, the lithium's fault, not l-twoo's fault. Charge your group very regularly, it's quick to do, but no juicy, no sexy. Was a flat ride, was ok. In the mountains, it would have sucked hard.
Does anyone know if there's a garmin data field with the battery indicator of the er9/erx group?
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Because i'm intellectually challenged, i went for a ride and the battery of the er9 died on me. Folks, don't forget to charge your group regularly, please be smarter than me :)
I am not using the original l-twoo batteries because of problems with shipping lithium internationally, so i bought what i found, and the capacity of the cells i found is SHIT. Therefore, i think i can get 500km autonomy or so. This is, afaik, the lithium's fault, not l-twoo's fault. Charge your group very regularly, it's quick to do, but no juicy, no sexy. Was a flat ride, was ok. In the mountains, it would have sucked hard.
Does anyone know if there's a garmin data field with the battery indicator of the er9/erx group?
Try https://www.nkon.nl/ for batteries
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Because i'm intellectually challenged, i went for a ride and the battery of the er9 died on me. Folks, don't forget to charge your group regularly, please be smarter than me :)
I am not using the original l-twoo batteries because of problems with shipping lithium internationally, so i bought what i found, and the capacity of the cells i found is SHIT. Therefore, i think i can get 500km autonomy or so. This is, afaik, the lithium's fault, not l-twoo's fault. Charge your group very regularly, it's quick to do, but no juicy, no sexy. Was a flat ride, was ok. In the mountains, it would have sucked hard.
Does anyone know if there's a garmin data field with the battery indicator of the er9/erx group?
It happens to the best of us! I now carry the USB charger cable with a USB C to A converter, so I can quickly top up just enough to get me home/anywhere to stop and charge using only my phone. Both the cable and USB converter are so compact I can easily shove them in my saddle bag.
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It happens to the best of us! I now carry the USB charger cable with a USB C to A converter, so I can quickly top up just enough to get me home/anywhere to stop and charge using only my phone. Both the cable and USB converter are so compact I can easily shove them in my saddle bag.
This is genius. I went out without charging the groupset after a few months off the bike, and it was fine for the first 40km until the cafe, close to the cafe the FD and RD were getting slow on shifting (FD wouldnt shift the whole way, RD would take 2-3 presses to react), I set the gears to a manageable gear and then everything died on the way back. Would've saved me if I did this.
I did see that I had 4% battery life left before I left so it was my fault.
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This is genius. I went out without charging the groupset after a few months off the bike, and it was fine for the first 40km until the cafe, close to the cafe the FD and RD were getting slow on shifting (FD wouldnt shift the whole way, RD would take 2-3 presses to react), I set the gears to a manageable gear and then everything died on the way back. Would've saved me if I did this.
I did see that I had 4% battery life left before I left so it was my fault.
Honestly, this is some of the few small things that keeps me from going away from eR9/eRX. For comparison, Shimano's charging cable is bulkier and probably takes much more space in my saddle bag if I want to do the same strategy.
All the flexibility that comes with LTWOO are so user friendly, from the variable 10-12 speed, user replaceable battery, individual gear indexing, air vent for bleeding, great app for on-the-fly adjustments. I know Shimano/SRAM may already have most, if not all of these, but considering I can get eR9 for a fraction of the price (they are now even much cheaper compared to launch price and I got my second eR9 for $380 after tax), I am now a happy user. I am hoping the second and third generation of eR9/eRX would solve all the issues users are currently having. By then, I would not hesitate to recommend the groupset to others.
It's actually somewhat impressive that they managed to do all these in their first generation product, while avoiding all the patent minefield left by Shimano/SRAM.
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It happens to the best of us! I now carry the USB charger cable with a USB C to A converter, so I can quickly top up just enough to get me home/anywhere to stop and charge using only my phone. Both the cable and USB converter are so compact I can easily shove them in my saddle bag.
Wait, whaaaat? I got to try this. I was thinking of maybe carrying a small battery pack, but if the phone can charge it, then F*** yeah Matt Damon!
Thank you!
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Wait, whaaaat? I got to try this. I was thinking of maybe carrying a small battery pack, but if the phone can charge it, then F*** yeah Matt Damon!
Thank you!
Yep! Worked for me the other day. You probably want to make sure you enable USB OTG setting in whatever phone you are using. Though I bet most phones these days come with OTG enabled by default.
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I too bought aftermarket batteries because I purchased the groupset without them. I am now at roughly 9000 shifts according to the app (although I'm not sure if this has been reset somewhere along the way when doing firmware updates). I've clocked around 1700km on this groupset and I've just charged it for the second time like 100km ago. So I think it's roughly on par with Sram AXS groups when it comes to batter life.
What is slightly annoying is that while the battery level is correctly displayed in the app, I still get a low battery level warning every time the groupset connects to my Wahoo when starting a ride. It's a bug that apparently still hasn't been fixed. Unless one of you guys knows something I don't?
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I too bought aftermarket batteries because I purchased the groupset without them. I am now at roughly 9000 shifts according to the app (although I'm not sure if this has been reset somewhere along the way when doing firmware updates). I've clocked around 1700km on this groupset and I've just charged it for the second time like 100km ago. So I think it's roughly on par with Sram AXS groups when it comes to batter life.
What is slightly annoying is that while the battery level is correctly displayed in the app, I still get a low battery level warning every time the groupset connects to my Wahoo when starting a ride. It's a bug that apparently still hasn't been fixed. Unless one of you guys knows something I don't?
I've got the same issue on my Garmin. Shows up as low battery but the battery indicator is correct when I put it on my screen. What size battery did you get? I find I can only get about 300-400km before needing to recharge, I have 2x1000mah 14500 batteries in mine.
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Vapcell f12 works well for me. You would want something that is high capacity and low self discharge.
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I got 2x800mAh units for around 13EUR which according to the shop are slightly more premium quality. They’re from a company called PATONA. Not on e of those generic blue ones. But what do I know? All I can say is they’re working well for me. Also, whenever I did charge my groupset, it still had 16-20% of battery capacity left. So I probably could have gone further.
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Honestly, this is some of the few small things that keeps me from going away from eR9/eRX. For comparison, Shimano's charging cable is bulkier and probably takes much more space in my saddle bag if I want to do the same strategy.
All the flexibility that comes with LTWOO are so user friendly, from the variable 10-12 speed, user replaceable battery, individual gear indexing, air vent for bleeding, great app for on-the-fly adjustments. I know Shimano/SRAM may already have most, if not all of these, but considering I can get eR9 for a fraction of the price (they are now even much cheaper compared to launch price and I got my second eR9 for $380 after tax), I am now a happy user. I am hoping the second and third generation of eR9/eRX would solve all the issues users are currently having. By then, I would not hesitate to recommend the groupset to others.
It's actually somewhat impressive that they managed to do all these in their first generation product, while avoiding all the patent minefield left by Shimano/SRAM.
where are you getting the er9 for $380?
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where are you getting the er9 for $380?
It was a few months ago when AliExpress and 80 Designer Store both had coupon discounts. It was too tempting to miss, so I decided to buy the set for another bike I plan to build for my wife. Nowadays, you can find eR9 for ~ $400 during discount days, which happens quite frequently it seems. Early this month, it was selling for $400.
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It was a few months ago when AliExpress and 80 Designer Store both had coupon discounts. It was too tempting to miss, so I decided to buy the set for another bike I plan to build for my wife. Nowadays, you can find eR9 for ~ $400 during discount days, which happens quite frequently it seems. Early this month, it was selling for $400.
Best I've seen is $400 during one of those discount days, and then using an AliExpress $50 off $350 code (which happens once every few months), so $350 pre-tax.
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Not really worth a vid, IMO. I pulled the plug, applied silicone grease in the slot where the plug sits and put it back in. It takes literally less than a minute. I washed the bike thoroughly yesterday and did spray water onto the RD and the plug deliberately. No issues. You could probably even use silicone sealant for a more permanent solution. The flakes everywhere on the pic are just little pieces of wax from the chain.
Still debating about getting this groupset but concern about the water proofing. So the silicone grease goes inside the connectors?
I was thinking of applying silcone gasket maker on the outside of the connector instead in inside https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-3-35-oz/
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Still debating about getting this groupset but concern about the water proofing. So the silicone grease goes inside the connectors?
I was thinking of applying silcone gasket maker on the outside of the connector instead in inside https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-3-35-oz/
You don't want to put it inside the plug or get it on the connector pins. It's really only there to fill the space between the plug and the socket to keep water from getting in there. So you put it round the outside of the plug and then you plug it in and wipe of the excess and you're done.
Like I said, I believe you only need to do it on the RD. Since the socket is upside down on the FD the chance of water ingress is practically zero.
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so it sounds more like a tolerance issue with the connectors. It doesn't look like the Shimano e-tubes have a seal on them at least not easily seen in pictures.
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etube take quite a bit of force to connect, especially the new SD300 on 12S stuff.
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I've got the same issue on my Garmin. Shows up as low battery but the battery indicator is correct when I put it on my screen. What size battery did you get? I find I can only get about 300-400km before needing to recharge, I have 2x1000mah 14500 batteries in mine.
Can I ask how did you paired your erx with your garmin computer?
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Can I ask how did you paired your erx with your garmin computer?
I just added it as Di2/Electronic Shifting and it showed up.
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I have received my er9 groupset, unfortunately my front derailleur doesnt work. I want to update the firmware but it doesnt go past 1 percent. Anybody who has a clue?
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Do you have batteries in the battery? I found that it needed more power than just plug in the cable.
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Do you have batteries in the battery? I found that it needed more power than just plug in the cable.
I have batteries in the battery
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I have batteries in the battery
Make sure the batteries are fully charged, disconnect reconnect everything, make sure stuff is paired properly. If you left shifter is paired with the FD, you can make it shift without using the app. Whatever firmware version you have, you should be able to shift up / down before / without updating it. If the firmware update doesnt go through, try on another phone? Basically, methodically try to eliminate all possible user errors. Pretty much every time i have a problem with anything, ultimately i realize it was my fault / mistake.
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I can confirm with the latest firmware update, the trim options are now more refined. The front derailleur will decide the best trim position. I also noticed that they have fixed the incorrect gear selection showing up on Wahoo. It was showing 12 speed when in fact I was on 11 speed cassette. I cannot confirm if this is also fixed on any other head unit. It is still showing that the battery is low even when fully charged. Hopefully they will fix this on the next update. Well, it looks like LTWOO is certainly working on making the groupset better and better. Kudos to them!
I think what LTWOO should do is to allow users to manually set a two steps shift, by allowing users to manually configure the sequence of shifts, it would avoid shimano copyrights issues.
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I just added it as Di2/Electronic Shifting and it showed up.
I can confirm that it also works with Wahoo although the display is somewhat lagging...
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Just did my first semi-wet ride after installing my 2nd rear derailleur (after 2 months of not being able to use it). This time with dielectric grease on both derailleurs.
First ride, and the shifting was incredible. So far no issues with the grease. Hopefully this derailleur will survive the weather in the Netherlands.
Ltwoo was helpful with their customer support, however the process of confirming the issue, and shipping the new derailleur took a sizable amount of time.
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...This time with dielectric grease on both derailleurs...
I'm planning to build my e-gravel with this group.
Would you mind to explain the known issue(s) of the group, as there are already 30+ pages.
The "dielectric grease" intrigued me ???
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I'm planning to build my e-gravel with this group.
Would you mind to explain the known issue(s) of the group, as there are already 30+ pages.
The "dielectric grease" intrigued me ???
The number one issue (and admittedly my only one) is water ingress. On my first set, after the first ride, I already started having issues. Note that I live in the enticingly moist Netherlands. After ride nr 5, I decided to add duct tape to the connections, which temporarily seemed to resolve all issues, until the 31st of Dec, when the rear derailleur died on me mid-ride.
The duct tape is not a full fix, and I personally only have one ride with the dielectric grease setup, but the latter solution seems to work for many people having this set.
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I'm planning to build my e-gravel with this group.
Would you mind to explain the known issue(s) of the group, as there are already 30+ pages.
The "dielectric grease" intrigued me ???
You need to somehow seal the plug at the RD to make it 100% waterproof. Otherwise you’re definitely gonna have issues. Silicone grease worked for me. Silicone sealant or Teflon tape could work as well, I guess. Other than that I had zero issues so far. This seems to be the most common problem.
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I use this around the RD connector.
125/50/30ML Liquid Insulation Electrical Tape Waterproof UV Protection Tube Paste Fast Rubber Fixed Dry Insulating Sealing Glue
https://a.aliexpress.com/_oBAVJdM
Have hosed down my bike several times with no issues.
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Is it possible to disconnect the connector if necessary wenn you use this glue?
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Just use a light coating. It tears off when you pull.
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Hello everyone, since yesterday I am the owner of the Ltwoo ER9 group and I have a question for the distinguished group about trimming - how does it work in your sets? It works fine on a small countertop, but on a large countertop it's like magic for me
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Hello everyone, since yesterday I am the owner of the Ltwoo ER9 group and I have a question for the distinguished group about trimming - how does it work in your sets? It works fine on a small countertop, but on a large countertop it's like magic for me
The app is great for calibration. you start by upgrading the FD & RD firmware, choose the number of gears you're running, and then you play with the app to fine tune everything. It's much more pleasant that using cables, especially the FD.
There's a useful function that prevents cross chaining (the last 2 cogs on each end of the cassette). With that, either i dont need to trim, or it's trimming on its own.
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Ok, thank you for the advice, and is it also the case that if the chain is on a small tabletop, you can use one half-speed, and if on a large tabletop, you have as many as four of these half-speeds at your disposal?
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Ok, thank you for the advice, and is it also the case that if the chain is on a small tabletop, you can use one half-speed, and if on a large tabletop, you have as many as four of these half-speeds at your disposal?
I don't really need the trim feature as I never really get chain rub. I use the "gear protection" feature to avoid cross chaining so the RD will avoid the two most extreme opposite gears of the respective chainring. The way I understand the trim feature is that whenever you press the button of the chainring that you're already in, the FD will reposition itself depending on the gear you're in at the back. So the more extreme you're cross chaining, the bigger the adjustment that the FD will make if you use the trim feature. But that's just my observation.
But like I said: Since I never get chain rub, I don't really bother to use the trim feature. I just shift the front when I have to.
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everything works :) precise adjustment of the front derailleur again eliminated the problem (very precise setting was the key to success). The half-speed gears work properly, but it's a pity that they are not automatic like in Shimano, they have to be corrected manually by pressing a button. Maybe the next update will introduce such an option. Thank you very much for help
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You need to somehow seal the plug at the RD to make it 100% waterproof. Otherwise you’re definitely gonna have issues. Silicone grease worked for me. Silicone sealant or Teflon tape could work as well, I guess. Other than that I had zero issues so far. This seems to be the most common problem.
Oh okay that means there is no updated Version of from LTWOO to solve this problem.
Can not understand why they didn´t update the sealing to stop this problems.
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everything works :) precise adjustment of the front derailleur again eliminated the problem (very precise setting was the key to success). The half-speed gears work properly, but it's a pity that they are not automatic like in Shimano, they have to be corrected manually by pressing a button. Maybe the next update will introduce such an option. Thank you very much for help
It used to be automatic. LTWOO had to remove that feature due to an infringement of Shimano's patent, it appears. So I doubt it'll happen anytime soon.
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Oh okay that means there is no updated Version of from LTWOO to solve this problem.
Can not understand why they didn´t update the sealing to stop this problems.
It seems that there's an update to this groupset underway. So maybe they will address the issue.
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https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4MstiMqJiU/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
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https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4MstiMqJiU/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Thanks for the info.
So now will battle of price between ERx and EDS.
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It will be interesting to see how LTwoo manages the release of the new version
I also hope it's available on Ali before the next big sale this month
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New version looks a lot better. Particularly the calipers. Hopefully all of this will be simultaneously added to the gravel version.
I think this revision will probably pressure Wheeltop to lower prices a touch.
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EGR now available on the L-Twoo AliEx Choice store:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006636427506.html
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Short review of the updated ERX version from ChinaCycling.
youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ
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Short review of the updated ERX version from ChinaCycling.
youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ
Wish I could get those updated calipers for my GR9 groupset.
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how much have you guys actually paid for ER9? I'm seeing 475 which imo is still not that good of a deal
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Paid 406 for er9 couple of months ago and paid 432 for GRX yesterday + 101 for Zitto 11-46 12 speed cassette and chain, for gravel bike...will update when received and installed.
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Short review of the updated ERX version from ChinaCycling.
youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ
So seemingly there’s absolutely no update on the cable port design on the derailleurs? That surprises me. I’m curious whether the waterproofing issues have been fixed.
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They mention the eGR having no issue with waterproofing, I believe that the learnings would be transferred to the road groupset?
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how much have you guys actually paid for ER9? I'm seeing 475 which imo is still not that good of a deal
Why? Cheapest 105 di that i can find costs around 750USD, it's 35% more than ER9, and with shimano you don't have shifting customization, like adjustment to each cassette cog and various cassette speed. You literally get 105 di2 equivalent with a price 35% cheaper, and some risk of sudden death.
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how much have you guys actually paid for ER9? I'm seeing 475 which imo is still not that good of a deal
Around 450€ with tax (thanks to the declared value of 70€ ;D ), also paid roughly 160€ for crankset, 70-ish for Ultegra 11 speed cassette and also bought Sram rotors.
It might look expensive compared to 105 Di2, but 105 groupset costs 1000€ + I'd have to sell stock crank and buy new one (because Shimano doesn't pair 165mm crank arms with their groupsets), replace rotors with Sram or Hope (don't trust Shimano Shite tech rotors), running costs of 12 speed group are higher too
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They mention the eGR having no issue with waterproofing, I believe that the learnings would be transferred to the road groupset?
True. eGR seems to be sufficiently waterproof. I wonder what they did to fix it, though. Tighter tolerances? Is the difference in the cables and plugs. If yes, could 1st gen users just buy new cables? I mean, I really don't have any issues with er9. But it would be good to know.
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I've ordered the e-gr groupset but now I'm a bit confused. The graphic on the AliExpress listing (official ltwoo) says max 50t. Trace velo seems to be running a 50t. All the official website comms and the user manual says max 46t.
Which is true? I need the 50t capacity.
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I've ordered the e-gr groupset but now I'm a bit confused. The graphic on the AliExpress listing (official ltwoo) says max 50t. Trace velo seems to be running a 50t. All the official website comms and the user manual says max 46t.
Which is true? I need the 50t capacity.
They most likely say 46t to play it safe with tolerances. Even the big brands are known to be conservative on their max capacity numbers. It may not work in all situations with a 50t, so they say 46 max.
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True. eGR seems to be sufficiently waterproof. I wonder what they did to fix it, though. Tighter tolerances? Is the difference in the cables and plugs. If yes, could 1st gen users just buy new cables? I mean, I really don't have any issues with er9. But it would be good to know.
I wonder if everything is backwards compatible between the 1st gen ER9/X and blue edition? Also did the latest batch of ER9/ERX get the blue edition weatherproof fixes? I wish LTwoo was more transparent about the changes. I think Wheeltop and Sensah should still try to win marketshare in the Chinese electronic groupset market. Internal competition should keep LTwoo in-check especially if the competition offers a more solid product with better customer service.
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Around 450€ with tax (thanks to the declared value of 70€ ;D ), also paid roughly 160€ for crankset, 70-ish for Ultegra 11 speed cassette and also bought Sram rotors.
It might look expensive compared to 105 Di2, but 105 groupset costs 1000€ + I'd have to sell stock crank and buy new one (because Shimano doesn't pair 165mm crank arms with their groupsets), replace rotors with Sram or Hope (don't trust Shimano Shite tech rotors), running costs of 12 speed group are higher too
That was a huge miscalculation on my part, I assumed drivetrain was more expensive. I thought the bare minimum with YBN chain, senicx crankset and ZTTO cassette would end up being ~850 for the groupset which is straight up uninteresting when you can have resale value, service and reliability of 105 for not much more. But individual trim, replacable battery and sleeping at night knowing you didn't give shitmano a cent make ltwoo an interesting option, too bad I built my bike just before it was anounced.
But how much can the ER9/ERX mech clear? It's rated for 32T and I know joe said 34T was fine but can it clear 36T? Also when you buy the "no battery" option, does this mean you still get the battery holder and have to buy the batteries yourself, or do you have to buy a battery case? And does anyone know if ER9 will be updated to "blue edition" at the same time as ERX?
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But how much can the ER9/ERX mech clear? It's rated for 32T and I know joe said 34T was fine but can it clear 36T?
I think officially it can only clear 32t. I'm using it with an 11-34 cassette and that's fine. Not sure if it can handle more. I think you could try and set it up with 11-36 but if the RD parallelogram curve then ends up with the upper pulley too far away from the cogs in the rest of the gears the shifting will suffer.
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I have 34t with no problem, think 36 t would work, or maybe with a roadlink.
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I don't have the groupset, I want to make sure it can take 36T before I buy. Do you still have room on the b screw?
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On the Er9 you can run 34T native, for 36T you need a small cage extender that costs 2 bucks on AliX. Dont buy the long ass one, that's for MTB cassettes.
You've guessed it, i've tried all these things 1st hand.
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They most likely say 46t to play it safe with tolerances. Even the big brands are known to be conservative on their max capacity numbers. It may not work in all situations with a 50t, so they say 46 max.
Confirmed 46t max. Am I right in thinking a hanger extender will allow me to use my 50t without issue?
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Where to buy Ltwoo eR9 for aroudn 400€?
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Where to buy Ltwoo eR9 for aroudn 400€?
AliX (80 designer store) is the answer. Right now at 532$ and at the checkout incl. VAT-discount, 18$ cupon and exchange rate to € i end up at that 400€ mark.
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Do not forget sales will start next week.
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Does anyone know if we can pair eGR with the front derailleur from eR9/eRX? I'd like to have 2x chainring at the front with eGR rear derailleur. The eGR shifter almost looks exactly the same as the new eRX shifter, with larger buttons.
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The template below was shared when talking to customer service.
That saved my bacon, thank you. Basically my group wasn't charged, I thought it was, it wasn't, the battery pack I've been using goes to sleep after a while and stops charging it seems. Anyway. Ofc my phone itself was nearly dead so I didn't manage to get much of a charge from it while on the road. Back home, the RD was stuck. Following that decision tree, all I had to do was reset the RD by pressing the RD button for 5-10 seconds (I had removed the chain), and then recalibrated the gears which took five minutes (chain back on obviously).
Be smarter than me people, make sure your group is charged...
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Do your front derailleur guides wear off the chain so quickly? I've traveled maybe 500 km and the derailleur slide looks bad. What will it be like when I've traveled 5,000 km? It's probably a hole right through. I'm very concerned about this
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I had a deal worked out with ltwoo regarding
Bring in to USA the electronic group set but they did not
Respond to providing me with a couple units for warranty exchange
For my USA based customers. The group set is great
And have it installed on 2 of my personal bikes
No problem with the set up and all went well..it now
Going on 1 and 1/2 years of full experience..
I'm glad you have yours working if I can help any one else
Be happy to.
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What's the general feeling towards ltwoo erx in spring 2024? I've been tempted to pull the trigger on a number of occasions but too many of the YT influencers saying it's not a finished product, has inherent problems etc ( maybe ltwoo aren't paying them enough to endorse). Aliexpress have a sale this week, never been a better time to buy however I value reliability over anything.
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What's the general feeling towards ltwoo erx in spring 2024? I've been tempted to pull the trigger on a number of occasions but too many of the YT influencers saying it's not a finished product, has inherent problems etc ( maybe ltwoo aren't paying them enough to endorse). Aliexpress have a sale this week, never been a better time to buy however I value reliability over anything.
I've been thinking about this myself. With the "blue edition" around the corner, I have a feeling LTwoo is trying to off-load the remaining product before release of the updated model. Maybe if I was building up a new frame right now and wanted to save some money on the groupset, I might pull the trigger. If I was upgrading a current frame to electronic, I might wait for the new version to be released.
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What's the general feeling towards ltwoo erx in spring 2024? I've been tempted to pull the trigger on a number of occasions but too many of the YT influencers saying it's not a finished product, has inherent problems etc ( maybe ltwoo aren't paying them enough to endorse). Aliexpress have a sale this week, never been a better time to buy however I value reliability over anything.
If you value reliability over ANYTHING, then buy Shimano.
YouTubers often receive early units and they serve as beta testers. Bad strategy? These YouTubers had the battery with tabs and not springs, which caused most of the concerns.
Your concern over shilling is also warranted. Anybody who has a discount code on anything has an interest in you spending more, mathematically. And so if you don't see a discount code on l-twoo, they don't stand to benefit, which is worse. If they don't make money from it but then users report problems, then they just shit themselves in the foot twice.
I'm very happy with my 5 er9, but I kind of want them to fail to see what happens. I enjoy the tinkering and the grind of making my own bike infinitely more than buying off the shelf pre packaged branded stuff. Shimano for me is a patent troll and SRAM is the worst assemble of engineers in recent bike history, so I will get out of my way to try alternatives.
I still use a Shimano group on an old bike. That stuff will never die. You probably should buy Shimano if your key concern is reliability. L-twoo electric groups didn't exist a year ago. Nobody can tell you how they age long term. They may age like fine wine, they may age like Lindsay Lohan. Do you want modern day Lindsay Lohan on your bike?
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If you value reliability over ANYTHING, then buy Shimano.
YouTubers often receive early units and they serve as beta testers. Bad strategy? These YouTubers had the battery with tabs and not springs, which caused most of the concerns.
Your concern over shilling is also warranted. Anybody who has a discount code on anything has an interest in you spending more, mathematically. And so if you don't see a discount code on l-twoo, they don't stand to benefit, which is worse. If they don't make money from it but then users report problems, then they just shit themselves in the foot twice.
I'm very happy with my 5 er9, but I kind of want them to fail to see what happens. I enjoy the tinkering and the grind of making my own bike infinitely more than buying off the shelf pre packaged branded stuff. Shimano for me is a patent troll and SRAM is the worst assemble of engineers in recent bike history, so I will get out of my way to try alternatives.
I still use a Shimano group on an old bike. That stuff will never die. You probably should buy Shimano if your key concern is reliability. L-twoo electric groups didn't exist a year ago. Nobody can tell you how they age long term. They may age like fine wine, they may age like Lindsay Lohan. Do you want modern day Lindsay Lohan on your bike?
I have to agree with many of these. I am now already >5000km on my first eR9. I have to admit, almost half of which are indoor Zwift rides (don't blame me, I am a fair-weather rider and don't like to be miserable on the bike during winter). I got another set for my wife's bike. These days, with discount codes, you can almost buy two eR9s for a price of Shimano 105 Di2. That is just a no brainer for me when I want to maintain more than two bikes. It's also convenient to have "spare" parts on one bike if/when anything goes wrong on the other. Some stores on AE are now listing individual parts already.
I am actually thinking of getting another set for my commuter bike. Still trying to figure out if I should get eGR or eR9. I want to run 2x on eGR, but not sure if that works. I'd imagine if the firmware allows, it should be straightforward since everything else is identical. I do have an extra front derailleur to use, so that would be great.
I am hoping my eR9s would age like Lindsay Lohan on fine wine diet.
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Am I blind or there really is no rim brake version of ER?
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Am I blind or there really is no rim brake version of ER?
No rim brake version. Seems like Wheeltop is basically the only Chinese option for electronic and rim brake.
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AliX (80 designer store) is the answer. Right now at 532$ and at the checkout incl. VAT-discount, 18$ cupon and exchange rate to € i end up at that 400€ mark.
Today they have sales. at checkout the price was 372€.
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Do your front derailleur guides wear off the chain so quickly? I've traveled maybe 500 km and the derailleur slide looks bad. What will it be like when I've traveled 5,000 km? It's probably a hole right through. I'm very concerned about this
This seems a bit concerning. Is anyone else seeing something similar?
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This seems a bit concerning. Is anyone else seeing something similar?
I've got about 2000km on my ER9, only some scrapes on the FD guide.
Maybe the limit position is incorrectly set on OP's setup? Or he isn't hitting the trim button every couple of shifts?
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Looks like the chainline or the limits are not properly set. There shouldn't be rubbing during normal riding.
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end positions set correctly, there is no friction during normal driving, what you see in the photo was only caused by changing from a small top to a large top
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Also when you buy the "no battery" option, does this mean you still get the battery holder and have to buy the batteries yourself, or do you have to buy a battery case?
You buy the batteries yourself, everything else comes with the kit (battery holder, charger, wires). Also, my shifters came with the coin cell batteries installed, no need to purchase these.
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Given the choice with the current sale, would you go with ER9 or ERX? With the ER9 I could offset the weight adding a lightweight 12 speed cassette and 2x chainring. I've been thinking of going 12 speed 52-36/11-34t. If I opt for the ERX, I'd stay 50-34/11-32t. Either option would be priced the same with the discount codes.
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Er9, the weight difference is tiny
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I placed the order on Ali for the er9, with the 80$ discount code ( I needed a few other things so I did reach the 500$ order), the er9 came to 350 USD with 80 designer store. Shipped to Canada.
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This seems a bit concerning. Is anyone else seeing something similar?
This is my FD after roughly 2.500km of use. The finish wears away and there is this copper coloured layer below. Where the chain hits the cage, it’s basically polished down to the bare steel. But there’s no scrapes or ridges. So I think it’ll last. The black stuff is just wax. I’m not really concerned by these wear marks.
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I see that your FD base is also worn out after driving 2,500 km, and I cover about 10,000 km per season, so it's scary to think what it will look like after a year of use. I think that after 2 years the FD will need to be replaced and this will add up to additional costs
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I don't think I'd call that worn out. Maybe the pic makes it look worse than it looks in the flesh. It's really only the surface finish that's worn off. What looks like scrape marks is really only residue of wax and dirt. The metal itself is fine. But we'll see.
I got a Campy FD on my other bike that looks very similar. They put a sort of low friction coating on their FD cages to ease up front shifting. It wears off where the chain touches the cage which makes it look pretty horrible. But the thing is still fine after tens of thousands of km. I have no reason to believe that the chain is going to eat away the steel cage. But I guess we'll see.
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finally pulled the trigger yesterday. 330€ without maybe customs was too temting. Has anyone replaced the breakpads by now and can say, if there is a shimano alternertive? and if yes which model does fit?
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finally pulled the trigger yesterday. 330€ without maybe customs was too temting. Has anyone replaced the breakpads by now and can say, if there is a shimano alternertive? and if yes which model does fit?
I paired my eR9 with ZRace XG caliper and Cooma Elite pads (the pink ones). I am just impressed with the Cooma pads. For the price, it has no business being so good and I have used all different kinds of Shimano pads before. I can comfortably say they are almost as good as Shimano's. Please note that I weight somewhere between 68-70kg, depending on the days, so that may change the results. Also impressed with the very minimal disc squealing noise.
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Man, I am >< this close to pulling trigger on that $380 ER9 but the imminent launch of upgraded version is stopping me. It's supposed to go on an existing bike (replacing mechanical Ultegra). But then in the comparison video on China cycling it appears that RD, cable port, charging port basically parts that have been reportedly suseptible to water damage are not updated and are same as current ER9/X. They updated FD but from what I read on these pages, the FD isn't really prone to getting the water in.
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Was doubting but with the sale i've got a full ER9 group with Zrace rotors and Senicx crank for 500usd. I'm racing these bikes, curious how ER9 will react to the Belgian kermesse races ;-)
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I also picked up the ER9 during the sale. Price came out to $350 USD with tax once I stacked it with $80 off coupon + coins. I decided to upgrade the rest of the drivetrain in the process so I picked up a 12 speed Goldix 251g 11-34t cassette and Senicx 52-36t chainring. I also picked up a pair of Fovno 12t POM jockey wheels for good measure. I noticed the cadence jumps on the 12 speed 11-34t matched the 11 speed 11-32t in the high gears and with a 36:34t low gear ratio, it'll match my current 34:32t 11 speed. I figure it's one of those scenarios where I can have my cake and eat it too! I've already ordered a set of high quality 14500 batteries and I'll probably pick up some dielectric grease from the auto store later on for insurance. Fortunately I have two road bikes, so I'll convert one to the ER9 and keep the other one mechanical Ultegra just in case.
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Was doubting but with the sale i've got a full ER9 group with Zrace rotors and Senicx crank for 500usd. I'm racing these bikes, curious how ER9 will react to the Belgian kermesse races ;-)
let me know how it goes with the customs. I was thinking about buying that set but am afraid of customs here in BE
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let me know how it goes with the customs. I was thinking about buying that set but am afraid of customs here in BE
if your parcel gets stopped, they ask you for an invoice and charge you VAT on what you paid, plus potentially 10-20 eur for custom processing fee. They can't really fine you, if that's your concern. And worst case, you refuse the package, it goes back to china, and you eventually get a refund. There's a tracking number so the parcel can't just get lost on its way back to china, so you would get a refund.
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if your parcel gets stopped, they ask you for an invoice and charge you VAT on what you paid, plus potentially 10-20 eur for custom processing fee. They can't really fine you, if that's your concern. And worst case, you refuse the package, it goes back to china, and you eventually get a refund. There's a tracking number so the parcel can't just get lost on its way back to china, so you would get a refund.
Well first of all I'd like to avoid any custom :) there are some shops which do the XDB or so to dispatch things without paying it. Second, if it's like in PT, it's not just 10/20€. It's actually quite a bunch more. Here you can find a complete 105di2 for around 1000€. Taking the VAT off is sth like 830€ which puts it dangerously close to a complete ER9 build, with the advantage of being Shimano and warranty
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let me know how it goes with the customs. I was thinking about buying that set but am afraid of customs here in BE
Not BE but GER, but will let you know if it may help you. They package will arrive with transit throug NL. Last time (magene 505 base) the postman at my door charged me around 13€ on an 250€ order. But i can't rember what value they wrote on the package. This time it is 83€ :D
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I went through this thread and could not find the answer. Apologies if I missed it, but regarding the kit we need to bleed the brakes, do you guys know if we need a particular Ltwoo kit? I have the below kit that says is good for Shimano and SRAM. I was assuming that ltwoo would use the same fittings, but I am unable to confirm.
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I went through this thread and could not find the answer. Apologies if I missed it, but regarding the kit we need to bleed the brakes, do you guys know if we need a particular Ltwoo kit? I have the below kit that says is good for Shimano and SRAM. I was assuming that ltwoo would use the same fittings, but I am unable to confirm.
This kit will not work, I have the same kit and I ran into issue with fittings - they were too thick (lol) to thread into calipers. I ended up buying Jagwire Elite bleeding syringes for Sram.
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Ordered eGR on 3/11 and the came on 3/19, didn't pay for air shipping but they got here to Texas in a week. Pretty nice set up again. I am disappointed that they don't ship it with mineral oil bottle, olives and barbs, or seatpost battery plug, but overall happy to this point. Waiting on cassette and chain to install.
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Ordered eGR on 3/11 and the came on 3/19, didn't pay for air shipping but they got here to Texas in a week. Pretty nice set up again. I am disappointed that they don't ship it with mineral oil bottle, olives and barbs, or seatpost battery plug, but overall happy to this point. Waiting on cassette and chain to install.
What store did you get it from? What was the final price?
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let me know how it goes with the customs. I was thinking about buying that set but am afraid of customs here in BE
I tried it with 2 orders in the previous sale. Both were about 200 EUR and I did not choose the prepaid shipping option. Both orders were stopped by customs and I had to pay extra both times. I had to pay 10-15% of the value, so still lower than what you would have to pay on Ali. The biggest part of those costs were handling cost for the shipping company. VAT was very little...
Customs do take their sweet time in handling the shipment. So you can expect that will add 1-2 weeks to the delivery times. I suspect this is maybe to discourage you from ordering this way... But they probably also just have a lot of work with all these packages.
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I went through this thread and could not find the answer. Apologies if I missed it, but regarding the kit we need to bleed the brakes, do you guys know if we need a particular Ltwoo kit? I have the below kit that says is good for Shimano and SRAM. I was assuming that ltwoo would use the same fittings, but I am unable to confirm.
As per Balticsea, this will probably not work. i ended up buying the decathlon bleed kit (c.35 eur) (way more than i would have liked) JUST for the little adaptors to screw into the bleed ports.
I had bought the "EZMTB Bicycle Brake Oil Bleed Kit Tools For SHIMANO SRAM Avid MAGURA Series Hydraulic Disc MTB Road Bike Brake Repair Tool... 2022 STD BAG" and the adaptor was too thick. i tried to file down the fitting, i broke it.
The Decathlon kit: https://www.decathlon.fr/p/kit-de-purge-pour-frein-a-disque-minerale/_/R-p-301337
Btw, out of 5 er9 i installed, i think i bled only 1 or 2. There's oil in the housing, so given that these groups were my first forays into hydraulic brakes, i didn't want to fix something that wasnt broken. Braking's been fine without bleeding on most of them.
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I used the full ezmtb kit listed here and it works:
60Ml Bicycle Brake Fluid Mineral Oil System Fluid Cycling Mountain Bikes for Shimano Bike Accessorie Oil Injector
https://a.aliexpress.com/_oCbPLJI
I believe any kit that includes sram adapters should work?
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These are plastic fittings. Mine are metal. Maybe that paradoxically, the plastic ones work better? The version i bought was meant to be universal, ie include sram (kit came with a LOT of different fittings).
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let me know how it goes with the customs. I was thinking about buying that set but am afraid of customs here in BE
Seller declared the value lower i always ask around 170 dollar so it's the absolute minimum import duty and it's a realistic value since the belgian limit is at 150 dollar.
Did this a few times before it works. Don't put 25 dollars on it or they will look it up :)
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Seller declared the value lower i always ask around 170 dollar so it's the absolute minimum import duty and it's a realistic value since the belgian limit is at 150 dollar.
Did this a few times before it works. Don't put 25 dollars on it or they will look it up :)
Interesting. So if you spend more than 170 eur on an AliX order, you send a message to the seller, ask they declare a value of 170 eur, that way customs catch the bag, they charge you on that 170 eur, and everybody is happy? What do you then pay, is it 20% on 170 + customs fees?
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i am from BE and rideing the er9 groupset, I payed an extra 30€ on tax. They put the price lower without asking them .
But what I read about racing it in kermesse ... I don't know but if you pay 400€ you really can't compare it to shimano or sram. the groupset is okay but not more than that. I wouldn't recommend it to people who really want quality. I was riding this weekend in bad weather and the shifting reactions where just bad. Sometimes you just have to shift like 10 times before the RD reacts to it.
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Sounds like you didn't set it up properly
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No such problem on mine. Do you mean the gear won’t shift on the cassette? Or does the RD not react to when you push the button? The former would be a setup issue. The latter might be water ingress and contact issues at the cable plug and socket interface.
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Check if the plugs are firmly plugged in and maybe change the shifter batteries. My set came with one side shifter battery(cr2032) totally flat because the wrap packaging it came in was pressing on the paddles.
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How's everyone's experience with battery life so far? I bought 2x 800mAh batteries. I didn't really pay attention how far I got with the first charge. When I charged the groupset for the second time, I reset the shift counter in the companion app to zero. I have done roughly 4.800 shifts now and the batteries are at 35%. So I should get around 7000-7500 shifts out of a single charge. The bike has done 2.300km with this groupset now. I guess I could do at least another 200km. Some of this was on the indoor trainer, however. Though I do not use ERG mode there, so I shift quite a bit on the indoor trainer as well. All in all, I guess I can expect 1000km per charge without pushing the batteries too much into the red. But if there are batteries with more capacity, this could be increased maybe?
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How's everyone's experience with battery life so far? I bought 2x 800mAh batteries. I didn't really pay attention how far I got with the first charge. When I charged the groupset for the second time, I reset the shift counter in the companion app to zero. I have done roughly 4.800 shifts now and the batteries are at 35%. So I should get around 7000-7500 shifts out of a single charge. The bike has done 2.300km with this groupset now. I guess I could do at least another 200km. Some of this was on the indoor trainer, however. Though I do not use ERG mode there, so I shift quite a bit on the indoor trainer as well. All in all, I guess I can expect 1000km per charge without pushing the batteries too much into the red. But if there are batteries with more capacity, this could be increased maybe?
will have a look at it when my set arrives and is installed. I opted for 1100mAh batteries with usb charging. So 1500km is my goal for the first charge?!
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How's everyone's experience with battery life so far? I bought 2x 800mAh batteries. I didn't really pay attention how far I got with the first charge. When I charged the groupset for the second time, I reset the shift counter in the companion app to zero. I have done roughly 4.800 shifts now and the batteries are at 35%. So I should get around 7000-7500 shifts out of a single charge. The bike has done 2.300km with this groupset now. I guess I could do at least another 200km. Some of this was on the indoor trainer, however. Though I do not use ERG mode there, so I shift quite a bit on the indoor trainer as well. All in all, I guess I can expect 1000km per charge without pushing the batteries too much into the red. But if there are batteries with more capacity, this could be increased maybe?
I am at 4800 shifts and at 55%. Using vapcell f12.
However, you should simply charge when at 30%. Don't stretch the batteries too much if you can help it.
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I bought batteries locally, and they are crap. I have a lithium capacity tester and they tested at 300-400mah. With these in, the group dies at c.35%. I found out because at first i was using an external battery pack to charge the group, but it turns out it wasn't charging properly for several reasons. So now for simplicity, i charge using a wall charger. I am making a habit of charging very often to avoid being stuck in one gear, which really, really sucks.
Note 1: you can / may to some extent charge the group on the go with a battery pack or your phone, but that assumes you're staying on top of the battery in these things.
Note 2: the 2nd time my group died in a ride, when back home, and after charging, i had to press the RD button for several seconds to reset the cage (it was stuck). Then took me 5min to re-calibrate the gears.
Note 3: the group talks to my garmin edge: battery indicator as well as which gear i'm in. I bothered setting that up only 3 days ago. It's quite neat.
Bottom line: charge your group...
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@Serge_K
It's 26€ handling + vat on 170 +-. Mostly between 45 and 50€.
i am from BE and rideing the er9 groupset, I payed an extra 30€ on tax. They put the price lower without asking them .
But what I read about racing it in kermesse ... I don't know but if you pay 400€ you really can't compare it to shimano or sram. the groupset is okay but not more than that. I wouldn't recommend it to people who really want quality. I was riding this weekend in bad weather and the shifting reactions where just bad. Sometimes you just have to shift like 10 times before the RD reacts to it.
Worth taking the risk, sram front shifting was horrible never going back to that. I'll try to put something over the connections to protect it from water ingress.
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Note 3: the group talks to my garmin edge: battery indicator as well as which gear i'm in. I bothered setting that up only 3 days ago. It's quite neat.
Bottom line: charge your group...
Yeah, that still doesn't work for Wahoo users though. The head unit randomly gives a low battery warning even when the groupset is fully charged. They still haven't fixed that bug.
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Ordered eGR on 3/11 and the came on 3/19, didn't pay for air shipping but they got here to Texas in a week. Pretty nice set up again. I am disappointed that they don't ship it with mineral oil bottle, olives and barbs, or seatpost battery plug, but overall happy to this point. Waiting on cassette and chain to install.
Mine came with olives and barbs in the bag with the caliper mounts.
I am using a hanger extender to run 11-50t. Will report back on shifting.
As I am running 1x, it seems like the buttons on the left lever are completely redundant. Any way they can be used for something else? Like changing Garmin screen? Or can I set them up like SRAM left/right shifting?
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Mine came with olives and barbs in the bag with the caliper mounts.
I am using a hanger extender to run 11-50t. Will report back on shifting.
As I am running 1x, it seems like the buttons on the left lever are completely redundant. Any way they can be used for something else? Like changing Garmin screen? Or can I set them up like SRAM left/right shifting?
Where did you buy hangar extender?
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They're generic, give it a Google. Ebay for cheap.
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Where did you buy hangar extender?
They come "free" when you order 11-50 cassettes on ali more often than not
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I just pulled trigger on the ER9 over EGR even though its going on a gravel bike. This will replace Ultegra/GRX setup. My plan is to run it in 11 speed mode and keep current crank, chain, cassette (11-34) as it is. Will see how it goes. Once the time comes to replace wearables, I will make the jump to 12s.
Also ordered a couple of Vapcell F12 batteries since I saw reference to those earlier in this thread. Not sure if that is a good price but it says "genuine" over there and Reddit confirmed its a reputable website.
https://liionwholesale.com/collections/batteries/products/vapcell-f12-14500-3a-button-top-1250mah-battery-genuine?variant=40539607302213
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Hi All
I'm a bike mechanic in Ireland, and in the last year I've built 5 customer bikes and 1 for me using eRX. And it's all been grand, couple wee hickups here are there, but overall very good, customers happy
For shipping reasons I buy without batteries which I source locally. The batteries I've been using are 14500 800mah un-protected, as the protected cells are too long to fit. Also capacites over 800mah are also too long to fit in the tube without forcing and bending it. I know to my cost, as the wee copper strip up the back of the pack is extremely fragile at the solder between the 2 batteries
Today a customer flatten his battery on a ride, when after re-charging its become apparent that the cells have been allowed to discharge below 30% and ruined them.
I'd presumed that the actually battery tube had a BMS at the top, now I'm not so sure.
Anyone else had issues with the batteries?
Also the manual states that a solid green LED on RD means the battery is fully charged. This isnt the case, if you open up the app you'll see it's charging and not 100%. This was the cause to the confusion for my customer, and the reason he didn't leave home with a full battery
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Hi All
I'm a bike mechanic in Ireland, and in the last year I've built 5 customer bikes and 1 for me using eRX. And it's all been grand, couple wee hickups here are there, but overall very good, customers happy
Nice to hear since Ireland has the same wet climate like Belgium. No water ingress issues with the rear derailleur?
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been very wet even for Ireland this winter. But no issues with water getting where it shouldn't
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My ER9 shipped immediately but hit a snag. The package has been returned back to sender. I have never seen this happening before and I order a LOT. Bad news?
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My ER9 shipped immediately but hit a snag. The package has been returned back to sender. I have never seen this happening before and I order a LOT. Bad news?
I wouldn’t lose sleep over this. Maybe the parcel got damaged or wasn’t properly packed. Good thing it happened in China still. Shouldn’t be too hard for the seller to sort it out. Did you order it with batteries? Customs issue maybe?
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My ER9 shipped immediately but hit a snag. The package has been returned back to sender. I have never seen this happening before and I order a LOT. Bad news?
Did you buy the eR9 from LTWOO Official Store and you're in the US? I had this issue twice and ended up not getting the eR9 (my third). I was told it was because restricted item (battery), even though I ordered one without battery, so customs don't allow for shipment. It's a bummer. I was recommended to buy from other sellers to avoid this issue. It's kind of odd, since my first eR9 was from this store, though it was before they became AE Choice seller. Being shipped by Choice may have something to do with it.
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I received my AliEx sale ER9 groupset while I was out of town last week. It took exactly 7 days to arrive from China to Southern California. Anyways, I examined all the hardware and everything looks good. Now I have to decide which road bike I'm going to install it on? It might have been easier if I just bought a new frame with the groupset! I'll report back later this week once I get it installed.
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I wouldn’t lose sleep over this. Maybe the parcel got damaged or wasn’t properly packed. Good thing it happened in China still. Shouldn’t be too hard for the seller to sort it out. Did you order it with batteries? Customs issue maybe?
Yes, without box and without battery version from their own official store. After reading boxof13's reply I got curious and started a chat with customer care. Their response - unfortunately it has been returned back to sender and on further inspection it seems the reason is "non-permitted items - batteries".
So I asked if sender can resend the package, reply - "No. Again, unfortunately Aliexpress has no system for reshipment of a package. I am buyer of Aliexpress too and this has happened with me before. The only option is to request for refund. Since you cannot request a refund I will start a refund dispute on your behalf"
. Not wanting to let go I asked if I should ask the seller directly, reply "You can try but best option would be refund as any reshipment process will be outside of Aliexpress if the seller agrees".
So yeah that's it. They have started refund. To be frank I am pleasantly surprised at this particular service rep's responses.
Did you buy the eR9 from LTWOO Official Store and you're in the US? I had this issue twice and ended up not getting the eR9 (my third). I was told it was because restricted item (battery), even though I ordered one without battery, so customs don't allow for shipment. It's a bummer. I was recommended to buy from other sellers to avoid this issue. It's kind of odd, since my first eR9 was from this store, though it was before they became AE Choice seller. Being shipped by Choice may have something to do with it.
You are right. This is exactly what happened and I am in US, ordered it from LTW official store the no battery or box version. My guess at this point is that they forgot to remove those CR2032 batteries from the shifters? Sent multiple messages to LTW but they don't reply. I should have known because they have never replied to any of my messages earlier too.
Man this is surely is a bummer. I didn't even need the group and now I am unreasonably mad.
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I receive lots of items with C2032 batteries. Maybe they accidentally packed a mineral oil container into your package? Anyways, I'd be annoyed that my package was returned. On the bright side, the blue edition ER9/X should be available on the next AliEx sale, so you can order the new & improved version instead! ;)
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Keep in mind that the so called official LTWOO store is not actually owned or run by LTWOO. At least according to Joe from China Cycling/Panda Podium. That’s why I just chose the best offer regardless of who the seller is and went with the 80s Designer Store.
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I receive lots of items with C2032 batteries. Maybe they accidentally packed a mineral oil container into your package? Anyways, I'd be annoyed that my package was returned. On the bright side, the blue edition ER9/X should be available on the next AliEx sale, so you can order the new & improved version instead! ;)
That's how I am looking at it. I kept going back and forth because the new edition is coming. But then Joe's video where the new version doesn't seem to have any additional waterproofing pushed me over the edge. Not sure what went wrong, per the customer care its batteries. May be its for the better. With that said, today is Choice Day and with 50 off coupon the ER9 is again back to same price as anniversary sale.
Keep in mind that the so called official LTWOO store is not actually owned or run by LTWOO. At least according to Joe from China Cycling/Panda Podium. That’s why I just chose the best offer regardless of who the seller is and went with the 80s Designer Store.
yeah I remember reading that! In this case it was not only official store (apparently) but also the best offer by quite some margin. Almost a no brainer when coupons were stacked. Oh well.
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That's how I am looking at it. I kept going back and forth because the new edition is coming. But then Joe's video where the new version doesn't seem to have any additional waterproofing pushed me over the edge. Not sure what went wrong, per the customer care its batteries. May be its for the better. With that said, today is Choice Day and with 50 off coupon the ER9 is again back to same price as anniversary sale.
yeah I remember reading that! In this case it was not only official store (apparently) but also the best offer by quite some margin. Almost a no brainer when coupons were stacked. Oh well.
I have to say the groupset does look quite nice, externally the ER9 finish looks similar to Shimano 105. I'd also be tempted to try the EGR, but where I live 1x gravel doesn't make sense. I wish there wasn't such an industry to push gravel as 1x.
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I receive lots of items with C2032 batteries. Maybe they accidentally packed a mineral oil container into your package? Anyways, I'd be annoyed that my package was returned. On the bright side, the blue edition ER9/X should be available on the next AliEx sale, so you can order the new & improved version instead! ;)
It was indeed odd. My second eR9 came with CR2032 already installed too, but it was from 80 Designer Store.
Getting the new blue edition was also my thought process. I was planning to put the additional eR9 on my old road/commuter bike anyway. I somehow developed a new habit of pressing the shift button with my pinky finger after riding so much on the eR9, so the new button layout on the blue addition will be awesome!
Anyone got news when they will start selling the new edition?
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Keep in mind that the so called official LTWOO store is not actually owned or run by LTWOO. At least according to Joe from China Cycling/Panda Podium. That’s why I just chose the best offer regardless of who the seller is and went with the 80s Designer Store.
In addition to informing about who is the real owner of the LTWOO account in AliExpress, I understand that it is a way to attract customers. After all he is offering the same product at a higher price, but it is understood that with better warranty and better service.
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I just noticed that Pandapodium put up this comment on their eRX listing
The “Blue Edition” won’t be available til the second half of 2024. The eRX we selling currently are still the all black version but with the previous issues solved.
It looks like plenty of people are asking this question already to them.
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I was getting my ER9 groupset setup last night and I verified mine did not come with CR2032 batteries (bought from the LTwoo "Official" Choice Store). Though I had to do a quick Google search to find where the battery slot was on my shifters. I'm really impressed by the customizable options via the app. I got everything sync'ed up, so now I have to figure out which one of my road bikes will receive the conversion. Also I can see now see how water ingress can be an issue, I'm debating which sealing method would work best for me. I was thinking of just using rubber cement around the plug, because I don't see myself detaching the RD once installed.
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I just noticed that Pandapodium put up this comment on their eRX listing
It looks like plenty of people are asking this question already to them.
Good that l ordered di2 last week ;D
..I was willingly to wait if the evolution of ERX would be better regarding the water ingress.. but my new frame arrived last week, no way that I would wait that long. The summer is coming 8)
But: next bike build will come for sure and then ERX is probably a solution.
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Today I sorted out my ER9 shifting. Unfortunately I picked the wrong bike frame to convert. I opted to use my TFSA (SL7 clone) frameset and despite having ports for Di2, the ER9 cable won't fit in the chainstay RD hole. So I had to route the cable externally. Also I tried running 52-36/11-34t and it's not that great. It shifts fine, but there's too much chain slack. I did try a shorter length chain while enabling gear protection, but you can still shift into big/big from small/big. I could potentially destroy the derailleur. I ended up sizing back down to 50-34 and kept the 11-34t. Chain length remained the same from my previous 50-34/11-32t combo.
So far I was able to properly fine tune shifting on my Goldix 12 speed 11-34t lightweight cassette. In fact the cassette shifts greats. I had some minor shift issues with the FD, though I was able to get it sorted. I installed an FD chain catcher for good measure (not needed on my Ultegra R8000 FD). Hopefully I'll be able to to get the bike up and running this weekend, and I'll report back.
Also I picked up a small packet of dielectric grease at the auto store. Just to verify, do I put it inside the connector port cable or just around the connector?
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On the Chris Miller channel a first indication of the update ER9 group-set have been shared: September 204
quite looooong waiting time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH9BZS1fHus&list=PLEpbDnti9Ma3sS3_n0VhLvurDB1ZgY3DY&index=1&t=2478s
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Today I sorted out my ER9 shifting. Unfortunately I picked the wrong bike frame to convert. I opted to use my TFSA (SL7 clone) frameset and despite having ports for Di2, the ER9 cable won't fit in the chainstay RD hole. So I had to route the cable externally. Also I tried running 52-36/11-34t and it's not that great. It shifts fine, but there's too much chain slack. I did try a shorter length chain while enabling gear protection, but you can still shift into big/big from small/big. I could potentially destroy the derailleur. I ended up sizing back down to 50-34 and kept the 11-34t. Chain length remained the same from my previous 50-34/11-32t combo.
So far I was able to properly fine tune shifting on my Goldix 12 speed 11-34t lightweight cassette. In fact the cassette shifts greats. I had some minor shift issues with the FD, though I was able to get it sorted. I installed an FD chain catcher for good measure (not needed on my Ultegra R8000 FD). Hopefully I'll be able to to get the bike up and running this weekend, and I'll report back.
Also I picked up a small packet of dielectric grease at the auto store. Just to verify, do I put it inside the connector port cable or just around the connector?
Just coat it outside the lip should be fine. What's important is that you ensure the cable is firmly plugged in. Personally I would prefer hot glue or liquid tape since that ensures a waterproof seal and yet is easily torn off when needed.
Chain catcher shouldn't be needed. Do note the FD limits are all adjusted in app.
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Just coat it outside the lip should be fine. What's important is that you ensure the cable is firmly plugged in. Personally I would prefer hot glue or liquid tape since that ensures a waterproof seal and yet is easily torn off when needed.
Chain catcher shouldn't be needed. Do note the FD limits are all adjusted in app.
I finished my bike rebuild last night and I opted to use rubber cement around the cable ports and then applied dielectric grease once it dried. I figure a glob of rubber cement should provide adequate adhesion that's easy to remove and the dielectric grease over that for moisture protection. So after installing the chain catcher, I was able to adequately tune the FD. I was too lazy to remove it though.
First impressions. Everything shifts excellent once setup. Though it was an all-day affair tuning the bike. I'm not sure it was any easier over setting up a cable mechanical bike. The software tuning app is amazing. I've never owned SRAM AXS or DI2, but gear protection and one touch shifting are awesome. I used a quality pair of batteries and battery life seems to be good so far.
On the not so bright side. I'm not fond of the puny RD springs LTwoo and Sensah tend to use. They work, but it's more confidence inspiring how Shimano uses an over engineered spring coil. Also my RD cage looks like it can only accommodate the same size jockey wheels provided. There's no wiggle room to tweak the size. Weight-wise, the ER9 isn't exactly less weight compared to mechanical Ultegra. I either broke even or maybe added a few grams to my bike.
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let me know how it goes with the customs. I was thinking about buying that set but am afraid of customs here in BE
the mailman rang a few minutes ago. Had to weigh everthing before i rememered to tell about the tax and so.
Price as declared was 83€ and i payed 19% VAT (15,77€) and a 6€ handling fee from DHL. So in total 21,72€ on top of the original price.
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the mailman rang a few minutes ago. Had to weigh everthing before i rememered to tell about the tax and so.
Price as declared was 83€ and i payed 19% VAT (15,77€) and a 6€ handling fee from DHL. So in total 21,72€ on top of the original price.
Thanks!
Yes in Portugal would be much different as they'd want the real invoice.. In Belgium I dunno... still waiting. Anyway I got a full groupset 105 hydraulic for 190euro delivered which I think wasn't bad. Going mechanical for now eheh
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I got a full groupset 105 hydraulic for 190euro delivered which I think wasn't bad. Going mechanical for now eheh
Second hand I guess?
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Yesterday I took the ER9 groupset on it's first ride doing a quick 40km and 600m of climbing. I took it up and down one of the worst road climbs in our city with lots of pot holes, dirt and loose rocks. My aim was to see if I could drop the chain while constantly shifting the ER9 using the whole gear range. The ride included flats, climbing and fast downhill descents. The ER9 worked amazingly well! Shifting was smooth, my cables stayed in-place, I never dropped the chain especially on the fast bumpy downhill and I was totally satisfied with the performance.
There were only a few issues I had when riding. I seemed to accidentally hit the left shift button inadvertently switching to the small chainring while descending in the drops. Also I didn't like that both left FD buttons functioned the same. I'd prefer to have one button dedicated to the small chainring and the other to the big chainring. Without auto trim, it's hard to hear if the chain is rubbing on the FD or not especially when listening to music. The LTwoo grips are a bit too narrow for my taste, I tend to prefer beefier grips. The LTwoo hydro brake calipers work fine, but they're definitely heavy, I might swap them out later on for some lightweight calipers.
Also I think 12 speed is worth switching over to if you plan on buying this groupset. I'm not sure if the smoothness of my ride was attributed to electronic shifting, the wider range cassette, a freshly waxed chain or all of the above? Either way I liked I was able to keep a similar cog range as my 11 speed 11-32t and get the added benefit of the 34t in the low gear.
In regards to gearing I think 50-34t is as big as you can go with an 11-34t cassette with the ER9 without compromising shift performance. It can shift 52-36t + 11-34t, but without a clutch or some sort of cage stiffness adjustment, it feels a bit sloppy. Regarding battery life with lots of shifting due to up and down terrain, I was at 84% from full charge after the ride. I think it'll be a good idea to buy an additional charging cable as backup and maybe bring a power bank if planning a century or more. Also I'm not sure how long the CR2032 batteries will last in the shifters? I think I'll have to pack a few batteries in my saddle bag and dedicated screwdriver moving forward.
Overall my first impressions of the ER9 is very positive. With tax and shipping the whole thing cost me $350 USD for the groupset and it seems the early production kinks have been ironed out (crossing fingers). Also the money saved going with the ER9 can be applied cutting weight elsewhere like a lightweight cassette (which I opted for) or lightweight brake calipers. I still think it's a good idea to have a firm grasp of tuning a mechanical groupset. I don't think I'd jump straight into electronic without knowing how to tune a mechanical bike.
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Second hand I guess?
Yes yes forgot to mention that ahha. Still I think it was a nice deal as it includes all (ex disc rotors and crank)
Now just seeking wheels and frame to match it... So far divided between lcr017, ltk 268 or vb066.
Currently have a speedster 30 and I think it would be nice maybe to have sth racket though I'm not going young
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There were only a few issues I had when riding. I seemed to accidentally hit the left shift button inadvertently switching to the small chainring while descending in the drops. Also I didn't like that both left FD buttons functioned the same. I'd prefer to have one button dedicated to the small chainring and the other to the big chainring. Without auto trim, it's hard to hear if the chain is rubbing on the FD or not especially when listening to music. The LTwoo grips are a bit too narrow for my taste, I tend to prefer beefier grips. The LTwoo hydro brake calipers work fine, but they're definitely heavy, I might swap them out later on for some lightweight calipers.
I think you have "one touch shift" enabled, that's why both shifter paddles work the same for the FD. The default config is one paddle for big, one for small.
Also agree that the hoods feel a little too small/thin for my hands. Prefer sensah ones which feel meatier.
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I think you have "one touch shift" enabled, that's why both shifter paddles work the same for the FD. The default config is one paddle for big, one for small.
Also agree that the hoods feel a little too small/thin for my hands. Prefer sensah ones which feel meatier.
I indeed had one touch shift activated! I turned that feature off. Also today I did some more fine tuning to the FD. Since I activated gear protection, I'm able to optimize my FD high and low gearing a bit more without worrying too much about big/big and small/small since those gears will be closed off. Also one little issue. I found when removing the wheel, the lower jockey wheel with chain rubs up the lower portion of the rear derailleur. Something to keep in mind.
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Keep in mind that the gear protection feature will not entirely block the big/big or small/small combo. If you are on either end of the cassette and click the FD shifter buttons it will still make the shift despite gear protection. So you should at least have it set up so your chain won’t get too slack or is not too short, otherwise you might damage your RD.
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Keep in mind that the gear protection feature will not entirely block the big/big or small/small combo. If you are on either end of the cassette and click the FD shifter buttons it will still make the shift despite gear protection. So you should at least have it set up so your chain won’t get too slack or is not too short, otherwise you might damage your RD.
I found on the ER9 fine tuning the FD high/low limits somewhere between the "ideal" setting and how I would adjust it with gear protection OFF to be a good compromise. My low and high gear will run smoother using gear protection, but I'm still within tolerances if I accidentally go big/big or small/small. Also I found chain length remained the same with either a 50-34/11-34t or a 52-36/11-32t setup. Since this bike is mainly used as a climber, I opted for the lower gear 1st option.
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Review of the new ERX from Local Alien / CLIFF on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PE58mKlZd6Q
The new FD cage is a different shape from before. He's reporting less chain drops from front shifting compared to previous ERX.
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I've installed my 5th er9 on a pinarello grevil clone I'm testing. Did a 4h gravel ride today, very varied terrain including technical stuff where you lose traction, have to choose your line, silly steep bits, all imaginable surfaces, blablabla. I put a 50/34 11/36 (all Chinese) with a 2 euro cage extender. I was shifting constantly and used all the gears. Didn't miss a shift. 34/36 really lets you climb up a tree, the limiting factor is my absence of skill and tendency to lift the front end. I ended up folded in two on top of the bars to keep traction.
Really pleased with the stuff.
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I can't seem to find the er9 when I search it on the app. Any buttons I need to click to make it enter search mode? I tried searching that info many places.
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The new FD cage is a different shape from before. He's reporting less chain drops from front shifting compared to previous ERX.
I've had my fair share of chain drops on one of the bikes i installed. It comes down to calibration / setting it up properly, after which, it doesnt drop. But all the better if they somehow improved that (I suspect he just installed / setup the new one better though).
I can't seem to find the er9 when I search it on the app. Any buttons I need to click to make it enter search mode? I tried searching that info many places.
Do you mean you're trying to pair the group with your phone using the app? as long as the group is on (which means as long as you can shift up / down with the shifters), your app on the phone should find it. If the group is sleeping, you wont find it. Make sure it's fully charged, make sure your bluetooth is on, your phone is charged, both FD & RD are connected to the battery, all the usual / obvious :) Sometimes my phone is in a bad mood and it takes 2-3 tries before connecting to a group, but i have 5 active groups on my app. It always ends up working.
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I can't tell from the aliexpress pictures, are the derailleur cages swappable or glued like sensah? I would be curious if an OSPW could potentially increase the clearance a little bit for a gravel bike. Mine has 31-40 lowest and I'm still grinding up some climbs
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Fixed now. It was the location permission from the phone that was preventing it to see the er9. Weird, but fixed. Thanks!
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Perhaps the wrong thread but I see there are people with tons of experience with the L-twoo unit and looks like an updated version is much improved. Any sense of how it compares so far to the new Wheetop EDX TX electronic groupset?
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So far I'm quite pleased with my ER9 groupset. I've been riding it back-to-back with my mechanical Ultegra bike and they're both good in their own ways. In my opinion, it's similar to driving an auto assist car versus a manual transmission. I find installing the ER9 easier than mechanical, but it's faster to tune mechanical once installed. Though I wish there were RD cage options with the ER9/X. The one thing I like with the OSPW Ceramic Speed knock-off I'm using on the Ultegra bike is the 4 levels of spring tension. For someone like me who climbs and descend rough California fire roads the added tension keeps the chain from bouncing without having to use a clutch RD. LTwoo's looser cage tension and smaller spring are a bit bouncy on rougher roads.
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So far I'm quite pleased with my ER9 groupset. I've been riding it back-to-back with my mechanical Ultegra bike and they're both good in their own ways. In my opinion, it's similar to driving an auto assist car versus a manual transmission. I find installing the ER9 easier than mechanical, but it's faster to tune mechanical once installed. Though I wish there were RD cage options with the ER9/X. The one thing I like with the OSPW Ceramic Speed knock-off I'm using on the Ultegra bike is the 4 levels of spring tension. For someone like me who climbs and descend rough California fire roads the added tension keeps the chain from bouncing without having to use a clutch RD. LTwoo's looser cage tension and smaller spring are a bit bouncy on rougher roads.
Really? My er9 RD has the highest spring tension I ever had on a 2x derailleur without a clutch mechanism. I get virtually no chain slap from it but the FD has to work quite a bit to make the front shift smoothly as a result. I wonder if it's different to yours. My Campy Record 12sp RD is a lot looser in comparison and I do get more chain slap on it.
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Today I sorted out my ER9 shifting. Unfortunately I picked the wrong bike frame to convert. I opted to use my TFSA (SL7 clone) frameset and despite having ports for Di2, the ER9 cable won't fit in the chainstay RD hole. So I had to route the cable externally. Also I tried running 52-36/11-34t and it's not that great. It shifts fine, but there's too much chain slack. I did try a shorter length chain while enabling gear protection, but you can still shift into big/big from small/big. I could potentially destroy the derailleur. I ended up sizing back down to 50-34 and kept the 11-34t. Chain length remained the same from my previous 50-34/11-32t combo.
So far I was able to properly fine tune shifting on my Goldix 12 speed 11-34t lightweight cassette. In fact the cassette shifts greats. I had some minor shift issues with the FD, though I was able to get it sorted. I installed an FD chain catcher for good measure (not needed on my Ultegra R8000 FD). Hopefully I'll be able to to get the bike up and running this weekend, and I'll report back.
Also I picked up a small packet of dielectric grease at the auto store. Just to verify, do I put it inside the connector port cable or just around the connector?
So the ER9 can be set up with 12 speed? I always see it advertised as an 11 speed groupset.
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So the ER9 can be set up with 12 speed? I always see it advertised as an 11 speed groupset.
Yes - you select the number of speeds in the app when setting up - it supports at least 10/11/12 (maybe more?).
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Yes - you select the number of speeds in the app when setting up - it supports at least 10/11/12 (maybe more?).
Luke TraceVelo in last video mention that after software update - it supports from 7 to 13 speed.
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Really? My er9 RD has the highest spring tension I ever had on a 2x derailleur without a clutch mechanism. I get virtually no chain slap from it but the FD has to work quite a bit to make the front shift smoothly as a result. I wonder if it's different to yours. My Campy Record 12sp RD is a lot looser in comparison and I do get more chain slap on it.
The main reason I run this Ceramic Speed knock-off OSPW (I'm not paying $500 USD for the real one) on my mechanical Shimano RD is for the 4 spring tension levels. It has 2 more spring coil holes more than the stock RD cage. I also have an Ultegra RX800 clutch RD on my gravel bike and I'd be fine with no clutch if Shimano had just pre-drilled additional holes into the cage, that way I could run the highest tension with no chain bounce. Plus I'm not too concerned about making a Shimano FD work, bar none Shimano makes the best FDs on the market. They just work!
If anything the ER9 is probably closer to stock Shimano cage tension. I already stress tested the ER9 on a really rough downhill descent and the chain was fine. It's just more personal preference for the way I ride.
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The main reason I run this Ceramic Speed knock-off OSPW (I'm not paying $500 USD for the real one) on my mechanical Shimano RD is for the 4 spring tension levels. It has 2 more spring coil holes more than the stock RD cage.
If anything the ER9 is probably closer to stock Shimano cage tension. I already stress tested the ER9 on a really rough downhill descent and the chain was fine. It's just more personal preference for the way I ride.
That's interesting. can you please link to your OSPW? On the er9, if you run 11-34 (native) or 11-36 (with a small cage extender), in small small, there's a lot of chain slack. Mind you, the app has "gear protection" that prevents that, plus you shouldn't cross chain, but if the OSPW acts as some de facto clutch, it becomes a lot less useless as an upgrade, at which point i'm curious to try. And I agree w you, i'm not paying 500$ for that farce.
It then becomes a question of whether there's an OSPW option for the er9/x.
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If anyone knows of an OSPW option that fits er9/erx, then I'd be interested as well. I'm happy to admit that for me it's mainly for the sake of vanity. :P More adjustability in spring tension is a welcomed side effect, however.
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That's interesting. can you please link to your OSPW? On the er9, if you run 11-34 (native) or 11-36 (with a small cage extender), in small small, there's a lot of chain slack. Mind you, the app has "gear protection" that prevents that, plus you shouldn't cross chain, but if the OSPW acts as some de facto clutch, it becomes a lot less useless as an upgrade, at which point i'm curious to try. And I agree w you, i'm not paying 500$ for that farce.
It then becomes a question of whether there's an OSPW option for the er9/x.
I found with the ER9 50-34/11-34t is the biggest cassette I could run with minimal chain slack. Chain length remained the same from my previous 11-32t when I was running mechanical and I can still safely clear big/big if I go there by accident. Though I'm wondering if there's some sort of Shimano patent for removable derailleur cages? I wonder why LTwoo and Sensah insist on non-removable cages?
Here's the link to that OSPW:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806117049941.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806117049941.html)
If you look closely at the photos you can see the 4 tension hole adjustments.
One more thought: I find gear protection an acceptable trade-off on the ER9/X because I feel small/small is where you'll most likely drop a chain. I also plan on keeping my chain catcher as an added bit of insurance.
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Here's the link to that OSPW:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806117049941.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806117049941.html)
If you look closely at the photos you can see the 4 tension hole adjustments.
One more thought: I find gear protection an acceptable trade-off on the ER9/X because I feel small/small is where you'll most likely drop a chain. I also plan on keeping my chain catcher as an added bit of insurance.
Avoid these cages at all costs. Broke two of these, last one on a cobble section in a race. Pure garbage! Consider yourself warned :)
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Avoid these cages at all costs. Broke two of these, last one on a cobble section in a race. Pure garbage! Consider yourself warned :)
I've been riding these on some of the roughest urban Los Angeles roads with no issues. I don't ride my road bikes in the rain, only use immersive waxed chains and they work fine. If you crashed, it probably would have happened to the real Ceramic Speed OSPW. It's getting to the point people keep saying everything is junk on AliExpress, but for some weird reason all the junk seems to work for me with proper care and maintenance.
I'm starting to think on the same lines as @Serge_K that most problems people have on here are due to user error/negligence.
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I've been riding these on some of the roughest urban Los Angeles roads with no issues. I don't ride my road bikes in the rain, only use immersive waxed chains and they work fine. If you crashed, it probably would have happened to the real Ceramic Speed OSPW. It's getting to the point people keep saying everything is junk on AliExpress, but for some weird reason all the junk seems to work for me with proper care and maitenance.
I'm starting to think on the same lines as @Serge_K that most problems people have on here are due to user error/negligence.
I don't know, I have also seen some bad reviews of those cages you link to. I must admit I had been thinking about ordering one, but the chances of damage if it snaps is just too high for me... You could end up with a damaged frame and a ruined wheel if it snaps and you chain rips off the derailleur...
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I don't know, I have also seen some bad reviews of those cages you link to. I must admit I had been thinking about ordering one, but the chances of damage if it snaps is just too high for me... You could end up with a damaged frame and a ruined wheel if it snaps and you chain rips off the derailleur...
My bikes should have exploded 10 times over with all the questionable parts I'm using from AliExpress. With weather heating up in my area, I'm more worried about running over a rattlesnake and having that rip off my derailleur. I've already accidentally run over 3 snakes alone this year on my bikes! ;D
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Weird thing I have noticed. When I tried to fit the chain to the bike after installing the er9, I noticed that the chain was not sitting right on the lower pulley. I suspected that the person who assembled the RD mixed up lower & upper pulley. I switched them and it it's all good now.
But, when searching pictures of the groupset after just by curiosity, I found pictures of both configurations.
Does anyone have an explanation to that?
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My ER9 shipped immediately but hit a snag. The package has been returned back to sender. I have never seen this happening before and I order a LOT. Bad news?
Update on this. Aliexpress finally refunded the money today even though package went back on March 29th. Has anyone had any luck with customer service to re-apply coupon?
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Weird thing I have noticed. When I tried to fit the chain to the bike after installing the er9, I noticed that the chain was not sitting right on the lower pulley. I suspected that the person who assembled the RD mixed up lower & upper pulley. I switched them and it it's all good now.
But, when searching pictures of the groupset after just by curiosity, I found pictures of both configurations.
Does anyone have an explanation to that?
I don't think it matters all that much. Though my came with the bigger 12t lower pulley wheel and the small 11t upper pulley wheel. I did notice the pulley wheels swapped in various photos, but in operation my arrangement shifts fine.
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FYI. I have put 100 miles on my new Wheeltop EDS TX Disc kit. I am very impressed with the quality and how good the EDS TX is working. The only thing I dislike is the ergonomics of the shift paddles on the right shift/brake lever. My fingers are having a hard time hitting the right button now and again, and more often on single track trails when the bike is bouncing around. I presume that as I get used to the paddle operation, it will become more second nature and I will mess up fewer shifts.
I was a lot more impressed with the disc caliper's stopping power than I thought I would be.
I was thinking about the ER9 or ERX, but I am sold on the EDS TX kit now. I hope the WheelTop products become more readily available in the USA, I have another bike I want to upgrade.
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I've also been riding my ER9 groupset without a hitch and I ride on some rough road terrain and it just works. I have my ER9 gear tuned perfectly, quality replaceable batteries are cheap/plentiful, the high speed shifts are faster than any of my mechanical bikes and gear protection does a great job minimizing chain drops + keeping chain line optimized. On price alone I would probably get another ER9 groupset. No complaints on brakes either, they work fine.
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Weird thing I have noticed. When I tried to fit the chain to the bike after installing the er9, I noticed that the chain was not sitting right on the lower pulley. I suspected that the person who assembled the RD mixed up lower & upper pulley. I switched them and it it's all good now.
But, when searching pictures of the groupset after just by curiosity, I found pictures of both configurations.
Does anyone have an explanation to that?
the lower pulley has a narrow / wide teeth config, so you have to feed the chain correctly. i guess it helps with shifting quality?
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Well, I had to swap the pulleys. 11 speed chain was blocking in the cage plate with the big pulley installed in the lower position. I am surprised if some of you were able to run the chain through with that config.
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Latest coupon is out AED369 $50 off
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Unlike Anniversary sale, the EGR this time is ~$1 cheaper than ER9. Both down to $370 - $50 coupon. The deal is back. On the other hand all EDS TX groups from 2-3 different vendors that I had added to cart before sale have expired just today. So no dice on them at least in the USA.
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At this sale price point, I'd consider getting a spare ER9 groupset. I really need to stop looking at AliExpress! lol
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the lower pulley has a narrow / wide teeth config, so you have to feed the chain correctly. i guess it helps with shifting quality?
+1 on that
Mine has the pulley with the narrow/wide teeth in the lower position.
I swapped my cheap aluminium/steel hybrid cassette for a ZTTO lightweight one piece steel cassette. It has absolutely transformed the shifting and it‘s now WAAAY better, quicker, quieter and smoother. Only confirms my assumption that these cheap cassettes are not worth it. (Mine was the Goldix one but they’re all the same I think). But even more so, I’m only realising now how much this has hampered my er9 groupset. It’s soo much better now. Amazing.
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They are all same. I bought different brands and noticed that the lockring on which brand name is printed comes in its own little pouch sticky-taped to main cassette body. One manufacturer is producing those cassettes and ZTTO, Wuzei, Goldix, Sunshine just add brand lockrings on top and make it theirs. Those mid range lightweight cassettes are really good. I am yet to try scary light cassettes like Riro branded.
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They are all same. I bought different brands and noticed that the lockring on which brand name is printed comes in its own little pouch sticky-taped to main cassette body. One manufacturer is producing those cassettes and ZTTO, Wuzei, Goldix, Sunshine just add brand lockrings on top and make it theirs. Those mid range lightweight cassettes are really good. I am yet to try scary light cassettes like Riro branded.
Naah, Thanks. 250g for a 11-34 12sp cassette is light enough for me. I’ll steer clear of steel/aluminium cassettes from Ali for the time being.
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At this sale price point, I'd consider getting a spare ER9 groupset. I really need to stop looking at AliExpress! lol
I ordered for the second time this afternoon after first purchase debacle. The groupset literally shipped in 1 hour after placing the order. I *really* hope they have removed the batteries this time.
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Group installed here, raced with it. Trained with it and I have to say wow very impressed with what I got for the money. Shifts better than my old dura ace 11v di2.
Running 12s with a cheaper 11-28 cassette (219gr).
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Did anyone have to contact 80's Designer store for a warranty issue? I messaged the store but didn't get any reply regarding a batt problem.
My ER9 (bought Nov 2023) seems to have a battery drain issue which depletes the batts about 10% everyday without any riding. Batts are new Vapcell F12 and all firmware updated. Compared to another ER9 set that I got in Feb 2024 which drains maybe 1% per day which probably seems to be the norm.
Anybody have a similar experience?
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Is something waking your er9 from time to time?
Also check if the battery was fully charged in the first place. On some power banks the charging may stop but the batteries may not be at 100%. Always visually confirm the battery percentage in the app before unplugging the charger.
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And have you tried switching batteries between the 2 groupsets to make sure it really isn't a bad battery?
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Is something waking your er9 from time to time?
Also check if the battery was fully charged in the first place. On some power banks the charging may stop but the batteries may not be at 100%. Always visually confirm the battery percentage in the app before unplugging the charger.
Its actually on my trainer bike so its rock steady and not moving at all. Initially I used a power bank, but switched to a wall socket to ensure. Yep, I confirmed the batt was full via the app. But it just steadily depletes even when not in use. During a 1hour zwift ride, it drops maybe 2 to 3% so its definitely not a huge drain when the derailleurs are shifted. Another strange thing is I always have to press the RD button in order to connect to the app, even though I had just shaken the RD to wake it up 3 secs ago and the green light blinks to indicate it is awake. My other ER9 set doesn't need the button press, just the shake to wake. So I thought something is wonky...
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And have you tried switching batteries between the 2 groupsets to make sure it really isn't a bad battery?
Yep, I initially used sofirn 900mah batts, then when I discovered the batt drain issue, switched to vapcell F12's with a higher mah, thinking my sofirn's had a problem. Same batt drain issue with the vapcells. I put the sofirn's in the other ER9 set and no batt drain issue.
Possibly users that report short batt lifespans may have this phantom batt drain issue like I'm having.
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Would be worth testing the voltage of the cells, but lithium really doesnt like staying fully charged (which is also why it's bad practice to charge phones to 100%), so assuming the group charges the cells to full voltage, that voltage is going to drop a bit to a level the cell is happier with. So for simplicity i wouldn't read much into what happens between 100 and 95, if not 100 and 90. Now if the group drains itself from 90 down to 50 for no apparent reason, then either there's a strange ghost load, or the batteries are trash. Or both.
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Would be worth testing the voltage of the cells, but lithium really doesnt like staying fully charged (which is also why it's bad practice to charge phones to 100%),
Propagated myth from 10 to 15 years ago that it is bad to charge cell phone batteries to 100%. Guess what! Cell phone manufacturers know that it is not good to charge a Lithium battery to a real 100%. What you see displayed at 100% isn't really a fully charged battery. the charging circuits compensate and stop charging before the battery is fully/overcharged, leading to a shorter battery life.
This being stated, does anyone know if LTWOO is using a charging circuit that wont allow the batteries to be charge limited? One would think that they would, but the only way to know would be to ask them.
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It's not a myth, there's ample data from the likes of accubattery that shows the battery degrades less if you dont charge to 100%, AND a lithium cell that gets charged to 4.2V will be much happier at 4.1 or 4V; it doesn't stay at full charge, and it shouldn't be stored at full charge.
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Did anyone have to contact 80's Designer store for a warranty issue? I messaged the store but didn't get any reply regarding a batt problem.
My ER9 (bought Nov 2023) seems to have a battery drain issue which depletes the batts about 10% everyday without any riding. Batts are new Vapcell F12 and all firmware updated. Compared to another ER9 set that I got in Feb 2024 which drains maybe 1% per day which probably seems to be the norm.
Anybody have a similar experience?
I had a to get my shifter on my GR9 group replaced. 80 Designer store sent me another and I paid shipping. They had the typical timezone delay on responses.
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I have a canyon endurace cf7 with 105.. Reckon the battery will fit in the seatpost? Also - can I do away with the calipers and retain the 105 brake setup?
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I have a canyon endurace cf7 with 105.. Reckon the battery will fit in the seatpost? Also - can I do away with the calipers and retain the 105 brake setup?
Yes and yes. But buying the shifters and derailleurs without the caliper makes little sense/might be more expensive than buying the whole thing. Also if you have R7000 the brake calipers are pure trash in my experience. R7100 was a giant upgrade
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Yes and yes. But buying the shifters and derailleurs without the caliper makes little sense/might be more expensive than buying the whole thing. Also if you have R7000 the brake calipers are pure trash in my experience. R7100 was a giant upgrade
Yeah I’d buy the whole kit and keep the unused bits as spare - although I do have the R7000 so I might check out the new calipers.
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It's not a myth, there's ample data from the likes of accubattery that shows the battery degrades less if you dont charge to 100%, AND a lithium cell that gets charged to 4.2V will be much happier at 4.1 or 4V; it doesn't stay at full charge, and it shouldn't be stored at full charge.
Remember, I am talking about modern cell phones being manufactured by the major manufacturers. Apple, Samsung,... What you are saying is true for most other appliances that use Lithium batteries, unless they are installing good charging control circuitry.
(Look up Samsung Battery Protect. Samsung charges all of its cell batteries to 85% of full charge, but the phone tells you it is charged to 100%)
https://www.wired.com/story/how-to-improve-battery-life-tips-myths-smartphones/
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Actually that is am option in samsung settings and it just stops charging at 85%, still shows 85%.
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I have a canyon endurace cf7 with 105.. Reckon the battery will fit in the seatpost? Also - can I do away with the calipers and retain the 105 brake setup?
It should work fine. My mechanical Ultegra bike is setup with LTwoo R9 calipers. Though there was some pad spacing issues which required me to pump the calipers without the brake pads to get them closer to the rotor. Though I prefer this method of adjusting brakes compared to the tight tolerances of my GRX calipers which required me to sand the brake pads slightly.
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I'm starting to find that I really don't like the LTwoo shaped hood. Today I went riding and was getting slight hand numbing. They're too slim compared to the beefier grips on my GRX and Ultegra R8020 equipped bikes which don't give me any issues. Even the Sensah Team Pro shifters I was previously using had thicker hoods. My Ultegra bike has the same drop bars and shifter positioning as well. I'm thinking of trying a -17° degree stem to slightly change the angle of my grip positioning. Any suggestions?
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I am finding it abit thin too. Just do an extra wrap around the hoods with bar tape and it helps. Or put some Eva foam on the hoods before u wrap.
-17 stem would likely make it worse?
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I am finding it abit thin too. Just do an extra wrap around the hoods with bar tape and it helps. Or put some Eva foam on the hoods before u wrap.
-17 stem would likely make it worse?
i was thinking about the additional bar tape, but then I would end up covering the CR2032 battery port of the shifters.
On my other bike with Ultegra shifters, I did switch to a -17° stem and while that extended my reach slightly, it put less pressure on my grip position. Though I'm not sure if it would help since my main issue is slim grip design that's causing discomfort.
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i was thinking about the additional bar tape, but then I would end up covering the CR2032 battery port of the shifters.
By the time you need to change cr2032, likely you need to change bar tape too.
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I had a to get my shifter on my GR9 group replaced. 80 Designer store sent me another and I paid shipping. They had the typical timezone delay on responses.
Just received a reply from 80's designer on sending me a new RD and wanted US$15 for shipping.
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i was thinking about the additional bar tape, but then I would end up covering the CR2032 battery port of the shifters.
On my other bike with Ultegra shifters, I did switch to a -17° stem and while that extended my reach slightly, it put less pressure on my grip position. Though I'm not sure if it would help since my main issue is slim grip design that's causing discomfort.
I slipped two pieces of thin bar tape, each 1 to 1.5 inches long under the rubber hoods mainly to provide more cushion and beef up the height to transition the hoods to bar better. Might help in your case too. Used double-sided tape to secure.
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Finkster. Did you have the same nick in clubsnap years ago?
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Finkster. Did you have the same nick in clubsnap years ago?
Yep! ;)
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Just received a reply from 80's designer on sending me a new RD and wanted US$15 for shipping.
Sounds about right. Glad you got it sorted.
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Sounds about right. Glad you got it sorted.
Yep, at least I'll have an extra RD for spare parts.
Anyway, I swopped out the faulty RD with my other newer ER9 RD just to confirm definitively that it is the RD drawing down the batt and not any other component or the batts themselves. The new RD with original FD, batts and shifters remained at 88% for 24hrs. But the faulty RD with brand new and uninstalled FD, batts and shifters (all paired and connected together) dropped from 94% to 84% in 24hrs just sitting on my desk.
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Does the shimano funnel fit the hood bleed port? If not, what is the best bleed kit made for this er9/x groups?
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There are ltwoo bleed kits out now.
SG$8.20 62%OFF | LTWOO L-TWOO Hydraulic Brake Bleed Tools
https://a.aliexpress.com/_on2Kqcq
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Does the shimano funnel fit the hood bleed port? If not, what is the best bleed kit made for this er9/x groups?
I had to buy the decathlon bleed kit for like 30-40 eur because the one i got from aliexpress (a ztto supposed to be universal) didnnt work: the fitting was too wide to screw into the bleed port on the calipers.
I suggest you get the kit zerstorer just posted from AliX, they must be including the right fitting.
The decathlon kit has metal bits, but i dont think it matters for the occasional mechanic. i'd rather spend 7 eur than 35 on that stuff.
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Yep, at least I'll have an extra RD for spare parts.
Anyway, I swopped out the faulty RD with my other newer ER9 RD just to confirm definitively that it is the RD drawing down the batt and not any other component or the batts themselves. The new RD with original FD, batts and shifters remained at 88% for 24hrs. But the faulty RD with brand new and uninstalled FD, batts and shifters (all paired and connected together) dropped from 94% to 84% in 24hrs just sitting on my desk.
80 designer store really has good service, great solution from them
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To help make my LTwoo shifters more comfortable, I added extra bar tap strips under the rubber hoods. I'm also going to switch back to gel padded gloves. I tend to prefer minimalists gloves with less padding on my Shimano equipped bikes.
Battery life on my ER9 has been very good. For about every 20 miles I only get about 5% battery drain with constant shifting. I can probably do an imperial/metric century with power to spare. Recharging is also quick. My only issue is that buying a spare charging cable is like $20-27 USD on AliEx (depending on sale pricing). I don't need an extra cable immediately, but I wouldn't mind getting one if I plan on traveling with my bike.
If anyone in the US is interested, I bought my batteries from this Ebay seller:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155465836365 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/155465836365)
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My only issue is that buying a spare charging cable is like $20-27 USD on AliEx (depending on sale pricing). I don't need an extra cable immediately, but I wouldn't mind getting one if I plan on traveling with my bike.
Maybe you can build one yourself? I found these, maybe they fit?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002198730186.html
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Maybe you can build one yourself? I found these, maybe they fit?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002198730186.html
The # C cable in that link looks like it could be the same one supplied with the ER9/X? Can anyone confirm? That would be a much cheaper alternative and great to have for travel or just to carry in the saddle for emergencies.
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It won't work with a normal usb charger. The batteries are 7.2V. That's why the usb plug of the charging cable is so big. It will probably increase the 5v output of a normal charger
But if this connector fits, you could theoretically solder it to a charger with the correct output.
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Yesterday I took the ER9 bike out with extra padded shifters and using gel padded gloves. Adding bar tape strips on the inner top part of the shifters helped on comfort and probably using the gel padded gloves as well. Though it's still not as comfortable as bigger Shimano hoods, but at least I didn't get any hand numbing. Also I needed to do some more gear fine tuning specifically in the small/big and big/small combination. I was having slight shift issues shifting up and down the three biggest cogs while on the small chainring. Its most noticeable on climbs constantly shifting while adjusting for elevation and cadence. I'm hoping I have it dialed in now, if not I'll have to do the gear fine tune while riding.
Other than that, the ER9 has been running great. If I was building a new bike now, I wouldn't hesitate using Chinese electronic groupsets. My old semi-internal TFSA frame definitely feels like a new bike with all the component upgrades!
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Any link to order 14500 batteries for ER9 from EU?
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Any link to order 14500 batteries for ER9 from EU?
nkon.nl
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nkon.nl
Ordered already 2 different types of batteries and nobody fit. :(
This are to big: https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/keeppower-14500-800mah.html
This don't touch the contact (they don't have button top): https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/sanyo-ur14500ac.html
Now I ordered this (hope will be ok): https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/xtar-14500-800mah-protected-1a.html
What are the right one?
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Ordered already 2 different types of batteries and nobody fit. :(
This are to big: https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/keeppower-14500-800mah.html
This don't touch the contact (they don't have button top): https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/sanyo-ur14500ac.html
Now I ordered this (hope will be ok): https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/xtar-14500-800mah-protected-1a.html
What are the right one?
the last one should fit well. The first one are protected ones that are way too high.
i got myself a set of this one, which fit perfect and can be recharged in case i left my ltwoo charger at home.
https://www.akkuteile.de/en/lithium-ionen-battery/size-14500/keeppower/keeppower-14500-1100mah-li-ion-3-7v-3-6v-with-usb-charging-facility-and-pcb-p1411u_12087_2926
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So rear derailer stopped working, it’s my girlfriends and I’m not sure if she did something or not but it doesn’t work anymore.
It makes a sound when I shift but won’t shift, right before it was shifting from1-5th gear, (1st being biggest sprocket) and then I was messing with it it got stuck in 1 and won’t shift anymore, just a bit of clicking sound.
Does anybody had this happen before.
https://m.youtube.com/shorts/Ufatm9ERIA0
Sounds like I am getting my money back, but I want a rear derailleur
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In the last few days, the er9 RD of a friend died for no reason. Got stuck in the hardest cog and nothing will make it shift, including reset, unplugging, replugging and everything i could think of. The FD works fine.
Then today, went for a ride with my gravel bike, and my own RD died exactly the same way! I went down a descent with bad asphalt and vibrations, at the end of the descent, dead RD.
I'm trying to get a response from l-twoo via the intermediary that sold me the groups, I'll keep you posted.
But as of right now, I'm extremely unhappy and would not recommend er9/erx because a bike has to work, if you can't trust your derailleur to shift, then buy something else.
I'll post updates.
TWO DEAD er9 RDs in one week under normal use.
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https://m.youtube.com/shorts/Ufatm9ERIA0
Try resetting it. Long press the button on the RD, like 10 seconds.
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In the last few days, the er9 RD of a friend died for no reason. Got stuck in the hardest cog and nothing will make it shift, including reset, unplugging, replugging and everything i could think of. The FD works fine.
Then today, went for a ride with my gravel bike, and my own RD died exactly the same way! I went down a descent with bad asphalt and vibrations, at the end of the descent, dead RD.
I'm trying to get a response from l-twoo via the intermediary that sold me the groups, I'll keep you posted.
But as of right now, I'm extremely unhappy and would not recommend er9/erx because a bike has to work, if you can't trust your derailleur to shift, then buy something else.
I'll post updates.
TWO DEAD er9 RDs in one week under normal use.
Keep us posted if you're able to get a replacement RD. I wonder what other issues might be affecting the ER9/X besides water ingress. Does extreme vibration mess with the RD motion sensor, causing it not to wake from sleep mode?
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PEOPLE I HAVE FOUND THE FIX AND MIGHT HELP YOU.
Look at the photo hopefully this will explain and otherwise get in contact with me.
Hopefully this works for you!
(I posted that I had a problem yesterday)
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Looks like buying this groupset is clearly a gamble. Seems to me it just isn't tested good enough and buyers are (once again) beta testers...
Let's hope the next version is better...
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Warranty issues aside how are the details on the groupset? did they copy old shimano mistakes like plastic threads on bleed port, flathead brake pad pin, random useless sharp bit in the caliper etc
and is it possible to buy electronic ltwoo with the zrace/iiipro calipers like it is for the mechanical version?
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PEOPLE I HAVE FOUND THE FIX AND MIGHT HELP YOU.
Look at the photo hopefully this will explain and otherwise get in contact with me.
Hopefully this works for you!
(I posted that I had a problem yesterday)
I can't read your scribbles, but I'm very interested. Would you mind using Paint and the text function, or PowerPoint with text boxes over the photo instead?
Thanks!
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Lol I’m sorry I do scribble but In essence the final drive gear that drives the arm that shifts had a tooth broken off, I’m not sure if this was my girlfriend frantically shifting without pedaling or something like that. She honestly doesn’t know yet how to shift because she is new to cycling.
For this problem you need to have a derailleur that is stuck in a biggest or smallest gear and still makes noise when you shift, or a rear derailleur that stops in a certain gear, for example 1-5 works but then 5-6 is a green flash and some noise but does not actually make the shift. If you diagnose any of those this might help.
But since that shifter arm only moves about 60° or so, I was able to take the derailleur cage off, then move the arm 120° around and then go in the app. Now here is where it gets sort of tricky. If it’s stuck in the smallest sprocket follow 1 if in largest follow 2.
1. Go to the rear derailleur in the app, then click calibrate, it will ask if you are in the 6th sprocket which you need to answer with “yes” ( even though you are not). This will offset the zero and will allow you to shift down 5-6 times (11-12 speed). Repeat this step until the arm has come around anbout 120° and you can mount the cage back on.
2. Go to the rear derailleur in the app, then click calibrate, it will ask if you are in the 6th sprocket which you need to answer “yes” ( even though you are not). This will offset the zero and will allow you to shift up 5-6 times (11-12 speed). Repeat this step until the arm has come around about 120 ° and you can mount the cage back on.
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Warranty issues aside how are the details on the groupset? did they copy old shimano mistakes like plastic threads on bleed port, flathead brake pad pin, random useless sharp bit in the caliper etc
and is it possible to buy electronic ltwoo with the zrace/iiipro calipers like it is for the mechanical version?
LTwoo brake calipers are actually pretty decent. I use them on my Ultegra build bike. Only issue is that I had to manually adjust brake pad spacing (removed the pads) by squeezing the levers several times to get the pistons closer. I think this was an issue with earlier calipers, because my newer ER9 calipers don't need much lever pull.
The Zrace calipers, while being less weight are more cheaply made. On the pair I was using, the pistons can actually fall out if too much pressure is applied without a brake block. Let's just say I had to clean up a big mess.
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The Zrace calipers, while being less weight are more cheaply made. On the pair I was using, the pistons can actually fall out if too much pressure is applied without a brake block. Let's just say I had to clean up a big mess.
Had this happen with shimano... Costly mistake lol. Brought it to a shop and they said shimano specifically asks to not service them in those cases so I had to buy a new one, thankfully of newer generation which is infinitely better made than the old gen sack of shit caliper
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Hello folks,
I do have a doubt about my er9 groupset...
It works perfectly when connected to the charging cable (via the app and sync with the levers), but as soon as I plug it out, nothing happens... No green light on the rear derailleur...
I guess it's not normal but hum...?!
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Hello folks,
I do have a doubt about my er9 groupset...
It works perfectly when connected to the charging cable (via the app and sync with the levers), but as soon as I plug it out, nothing happens... No green light on the rear derailleur...
I guess it's not normal but hum...?!
had quite the same problem yesterday. Try holding the RD button when attached to the charging calbe. The RD jumped into the smallest cog and worked fine since. This should be some kind of factory reset, if i understood right.
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I've been abusing my ER9 all week with fast flats, long climbs and sketchy road descents. I'm definitely using the full range of my shifting. I hop curbs and take my bike on dirt roads, something my mechanical setup could easily handle. I also fixed my mis-shift issues on the 3 big cogs, now it's shifting perfectly.
On occasion I have to press the RD button to link up to the app as opposed to just shaking the bike to have it connect. Besides that everything is working fine. I'll definitely chime in if I have any issues. Not doing any rain rides though!
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Hello folks,
I do have a doubt about my er9 groupset...
It works perfectly when connected to the charging cable (via the app and sync with the levers), but as soon as I plug it out, nothing happens... No green light on the rear derailleur...
I guess it's not normal but hum...?!
Check the batteries/connection?
Can you see the battery status when power cable is connected?
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had quite the same problem yesterday. Try holding the RD button when attached to the charging calbe. The RD jumped into the smallest cog and worked fine since. This should be some kind of factory reset, if i understood right.
That is a reset indeed. When it's not broken, you can then shift again normally, but you probably have to recalibrate the gears with the app (which, the more you do it, the quicker you get).
But if your RD is F'ed like 2 of mine, then it makes weird noises, and refuses to shift.
Trying to hear back from Ltwoo via the chinese intermediary that sold me the groups, and so far i m getting nowhere.
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That is a reset indeed. When it's not broken, you can then shift again normally, but you probably have to recalibrate the gears with the app (which, the more you do it, the quicker you get).
But if your RD is F'ed like 2 of mine, then it makes weird noises, and refuses to shift.
Trying to hear back from Ltwoo via the chinese intermediary that sold me the groups, and so far i m getting nowhere.
Have you tried contacting LTwoo directly?
https://www.ltwoo.com/foot/Contact_us/Contact_us (https://www.ltwoo.com/foot/Contact_us/Contact_us)
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Quick Q, Does eRX have a button that can control the head unit screen like Di2 (Ultegra+) has?
To clarify, with Ultegra and DA Di2, there are buttons on top of the hoods that can be programmed to page up/down on your head-unit.
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No
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Have you tried contacting LTwoo directly?
https://www.ltwoo.com/foot/Contact_us/Contact_us (https://www.ltwoo.com/foot/Contact_us/Contact_us)
The support / ticket page i saw said to go via your reseller first, so i did. if i understand him correctly (his English is conveniently dubious at critical times), ltwoo is sending him 2 replacements and then he'll have to ship them to me. I'm not sure i understood correctly, it's happening in real time and he's bad at answering emails and gets upset when i chase him. There hasn't been any feedback on what the problem may be / is. If they are sending replacements i guess they're just broken? I would have wished there would be a software / reset solution to it, because it means 2 RDs just randomly died under normal use.
I have extremely mixed feelings about RD randomly dying for no reason, imagine a cycling holiday, a bike tour, or a long day out, how F'ed you are if that happens...
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I have extremely mixed feelings about RD randomly dying for no reason, imagine a cycling holiday, a bike tour, or a long day out, how F'ed you are if that happens...
It's definitely concerning to hear about the ER9/X RDs just dying. By any chance do you have a bar code on your RD? Joe from China Cycling said it should say the manufacturing date. Reading the first 6 digits, mine says 250123. If that's dd/mm/yy, that means I have an RD from early last year. :(
I'm not sure I would take the ER9 groupset as my travel bike either. Luckily I have other mechanical bikes for travel. I'm just wondering if there's a way we can narrow down the problematic groupsets or if they're all ticking time bombs! :-\
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Don't know if I should feel happy or sad. My second purchase of the ER9 has been sent back to seller because of the batteries. This is after I sent message to seller (for once they replied) and confirmed if its without batteries. Then I placed the order and sent them order number. No dice. They included battery and pretty much immediately was back in their hands. Now reading these reports, may be it was for the better.
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Reading the first 6 digits, mine says 250123. If that's dd/mm/yy, that means I have an RD from early last year. :(
I'm just wondering if there's a way we can narrow down the problematic groupsets or if they're all ticking time bombs! :-\
I have access to 4 of the 5 now (2 broken, 1 on my road bike that's working and 1 that's not broken but on a bike with a broken wheel & a trashed RD hanger, so not seeing any use for several weeks already):
Broken: 250123
Broken: 250123
Working: 250123
Working: 250123
...
Maybe more interestingly full numbers 250123XXXX0119 / 123 / 122 / 133. I blanked out the middle, idk if it's sensitive or not to share the serial #.
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It's definitely concerning to hear about the ER9/X RDs just dying. By any chance do you have a bar code on your RD? Joe from China Cycling said it should say the manufacturing date. Reading the first 6 digits, mine says 250123. If that's dd/mm/yy, that means I have an RD from early last year. :(
I'm not sure I would take the ER9 groupset as my travel bike either. Luckily I have other mechanical bikes for travel. I'm just wondering if there's a way we can narrow down the problematic groupsets or if they're all ticking time bombs! :-\
I have two ER9 sets, one with the RD phantom batt drain fault that I described a few pages back. Both have serial numbers starting with 250123. First set was bought in Nov 2023, second in Feb 2024. More likely that these numbers are just product codes identifying it is an ER9 RD with the following numbers the actual serial number. Unless someone actually owns an ER9 RD that has different first six numbers.
I'm hesitating installing the 2nd ER9 set on my gravel tourer due to reliability concerns. When riding on the road near home in relatively good conditions, its not a big deal, but in a foreign country with limited access to LTWOO ERX/ER9 parts, its a big risk unless you carry a spare ER9 RD around on your travels. With SRAM and Shimano, almost every decent bike shop will be able to provide the needed parts in a jiffy.
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Hello folks,
I do have a doubt about my er9 groupset...
It works perfectly when connected to the charging cable (via the app and sync with the levers), but as soon as I plug it out, nothing happens... No green light on the rear derailleur...
I guess it's not normal but hum...?!
I might have solved my problems... But... Don't ask me how, I don't really know... Plug out/plug in batteries, long press on RD, reset, fine tuning and that's it!
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I have access to 4 of the 5 now (2 broken, 1 on my road bike that's working and 1 that's not broken but on a bike with a broken wheel & a trashed RD hanger, so not seeing any use for several weeks already):
Broken: 250123
Broken: 250123
Working: 250123
Working: 250123
...
Maybe more interestingly full numbers 250123XXXX0119 / 123 / 122 / 133. I blanked out the middle, idk if it's sensitive or not to share the serial #.
You are in the EU? I am familiar with the physical analysis of broken electronic units.
I can't of curse guarantee anything, but if this failure is due to a water ingress or internal dewing event there should be visible traces on the printed board. Sometimes it's also possible to see bad solder joints.
Internal damages of components unfortunately very often do not show any signs of something which can be seen visually. Sometimes they show discoloration on pins or melted housing but that's not always the case.
This analysis is very often destructive,. But .. its already dead, right? ;D
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I have two ER9 sets, one with the RD phantom batt drain fault that I described a few pages back. Both have serial numbers starting with 250123. First set was bought in Nov 2023, second in Feb 2024. More likely that these numbers are just product codes identifying it is an ER9 RD with the following numbers the actual serial number. Unless someone actually owns an ER9 RD that has different first six numbers.
I'm hesitating installing the 2nd ER9 set on my gravel tourer due to reliability concerns. When riding on the road near home in relatively good conditions, its not a big deal, but in a foreign country with limited access to LTWOO ERX/ER9 parts, its a big risk unless you carry a spare ER9 RD around on your travels. With SRAM and Shimano, almost every decent bike shop will be able to provide the needed parts in a jiffy.
I have a ER9 and RD code starts with 250124
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You are in the EU? I am familiar with the physical analysis of broken electronic units.
I can't of curse guarantee anything, but if this failure is due to a water ingress or internal dewing event there should be visible traces on the printed board. Sometimes it's also possible to see bad solder joints.
Internal damages of components unfortunately very often do not show any signs of something which can be seen visually. Sometimes they show discoloration on pins or melted housing but that's not always the case.
This analysis is very often destructive,. But .. its already dead, right? ;D
Yes i'm either in France or Romania. after i get the replacements, let's chat. I may open one myself to see if there's something obvious, i could maybe send you one if you're curious to play around. It would be interesting to figure out what happened.
Either way, neither died because of water or humidity. One died after a descent on bad asphalt with teeth rattling vibration, the other one just died at the very start of the ride, but we're not in humid climate or season so can't be condensation.
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My RD's serial number starts with 250123 as well. Bought in Sept 23.
No issues yet apart from one ride with intermittent shifting due to humidity in the plug. Without issues since I weatherproofed the connection.
I've done roughly 3000km and 16.000 shifts with it. Fingers crossed.
I did shy away from using the bike in a race recently due to the number of reports here. I didn't want to be stranded on the side of the road with non working derailleurs, so I used my mechanical bike. But I've done 6+ hour long gran fondos with this and used the battery with as little as around 25% of its capacity. It kept working. I also regularly ride cobbled and dirt roads on my rides and the vibrations have not been a problem so far.
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Mine is working fine so far, damn I really hope that it just doesn't die in the middle of a race here. But if it happens oh well bad luck than lol
I'm selling an eGR group in Belgium. Don't wonna take the risk on the gravel since I'm mostly far from home when riding gravel.
Asking the price i've paid for it, if it doesn't sell I'll try it anyway.
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I have a ER9 and RD code starts with 250124
Curious which seller you bought your ER9 groupset from? Also report back if you have any issues. If the 250124 is a newer batch with silent revisions, perhaps those are the groupsets to buy?
I somewhat have this love/distrust with the ER9. Now that my ER9 is setup properly, functionality-wise it's been running great. The way I can hammer the shifts on the fly is awesome in conjunction with a close ratio 12 speed cassette, finely tuned cog spacing and gear protection helps so I can just focus on my cadence. I rode my mechanical Ultegra the other day and totally forgot I had no gear protection (shifted into big/big) and I was wondering why my computer wasn't seeing the shifters? Lol
Only if LTwoo weren't such dumba**es and put a bit more effort in refining their product. They could literally sweep the market if the ER9/X was far more reliable. All these user reports of failing RDs and lack of support just undermines a potentially good product. Hell, I'd pay $100 USD extra if they could improve their quality assurance and customer support. The fact I can use 7-13 speed cassettes and use run-of-the-mill rechargeable batteries is enough for me to pay extra.
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So it seems more likely that 250123 and 250124 are batch numbers. I'll have a replacement RD coming in a week or so. We'll see what numbers this one has.
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Yes i'm either in France or Romania. after i get the replacements, let's chat. I may open one myself to see if there's something obvious, i could maybe send you one if you're curious to play around. It would be interesting to figure out what happened.
Either way, neither died because of water or humidity. One died after a descent on bad asphalt with teeth rattling vibration, the other one just died at the very start of the ride, but we're not in humid climate or season so can't be condensation.
;D sometimes the damages are a weirdo combination of several things. Yes, I agree , your description doesn't sound like water at the first space. I am super curious, last year i opened a failed Shimano front derailleur and I could figure out the damage.. purely mechanic damage, the electronic part was super fine. ;D I didn't expect that frankly... I am open for that experiment, let's just chat then :)
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My set that I received a month ago is 250140. Didn't receive my electrical tape yet and did a few pouring rain rides already.
Fingers crossed.
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My set that I received a month ago is 250140. Didn't receive my electrical tape yet and did a few pouring rain rides already.
Fingers crossed.
Okay, so 250123 batches seem to be problematic. 250124 and 250140 could be newer batch runs. Maybe all the deep sales are for the older 250123 batches? What seller did you buy yours from?
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Looks like my first ER9 set is a lemon. After the RD gave me batt drain issues, the right brake lever also has a fault. When pulling the brake lever, at first it travels normally, hits the wall of resistance when the caliper pistons move and brake pads press against the rotor (normal so far). But when more force is applied, a loud clunk comes from the hinge area of the brake lever/shifter, and there is no further force generated by the hydraulics to squeeze harder on the rotor. So essentially, the rear brake doesn't work no matter how hard I pull on the lever. There is felt resistance at the lever, but it feels like something gave way internally of the lever and no fluid is moved from that point. There are no fluid leaks to be seen anywhere.
So to troubleshoot, yet again I had to rob parts from my 2nd ER9 set, installed the right shifter and it totally works fine. No more brake issues.
Contacted 80's designer again to request for a replacement and awaiting their response. Meanwhile I'll try to dissect the lever and see what's wrong if possible.
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Okay, so 250123 batches seem to be problematic. 250124 and 250140 could be newer batch runs. Maybe all the deep sales are for the older 250123 batches? What seller did you buy yours from?
80 Designer store here on Ali.
Contacted 80's designer again to request for a replacement and awaiting their response. Meanwhile I'll try to dissect the lever and see what's wrong if possible.
Atleast this looks like a seller that's handling issues. :s
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I just received an eGR 1x setup. I have a 220124 date code, so let's hope it's in better shape.
Does anyone have both an eRX/eR9 as well as an eGR? Can anyone comment if any of the parts are interchangeable? (i.e using an eGR RD with an eR9 FD,or using eR9 shifters with eGR derailleur, etc.)
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Has anyone tried this set for bleeding.
It's SRAM specific but should work for the calipers?
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005001317203067.html
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Just came back from my first ride.
Was super happy with the ER9. Nice shifting (some small adjustments have to be done to be spot on) until i tried to shift both derailleurs at the same time.
Front from big to small and back vice versa. Ended up in a half shifted gear and a complete dead groupset.
Has anyone had this problem before? And is there a hack to bring it back to life without attaching the charging cable?
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Have you tried doing a long hard press on the RD button? Also have you double checked all your battery cables to make sure they aren't loose? Mine are all rubber cemented on the derailleurs and then coated with dielectric grease. Were your batteries charged? I would definitely check all connectors to make sure they are firmly attached.
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Have you tried doing a long hard press on the RD button? Also have you double checked all your battery cables to make sure they aren't loose? Mine are all rubber cemented on the derailleurs and then coated with dielectric grease. Were your batteries charged? I would definitely check all connectors to make sure they are firmly attached.
yes.
yes even unplugged every cable even removed the cables from the battery pack.
and yes everything is charged.
just a small connecting to an external power source and tada everything was back to normal
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Mine is 250132 and it's working fine.
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250123 here as well - eR9 purchased from 80 Designer November 2023. No problems so far but only ~8k shifts as of yet (don't know the mileage), roughly 80/20% paved/unpaved roads; it survived a few minor downpours and subsequent washes.
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Did anybody have to deal with a groupset that was only charging a couple of seconds after connecting it?
If so, was there a fix to deal with it? I have had numerous rides now where midride, the batteries are empty, even though I charged them the night before (or so I thought).
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Try another power bank or DC source.
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Or different batteries.
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i used to use a battery pack thinking it was charging, it wasn't really. I've been using a wall socket, works much better. I wouldn't charge less than once a week though, the battery doesn't last that long (I did use $hit batteries, to be fair, i tested their capacity at 320-380mah each).
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I can already see that the non-proprietary battery pack is going to be both a blessing and a curse for this system. Occasionally, there will be some electronics issues with either the battery pack, wiring, or derailleurs that users (and Ltwoo) are going to have to deal with, but I imagine that much more commonly there will be issues with cheap, garbage cells that fail or are DOA. Savvy troubleshooters may zero in on the root cause quickly enough, but some are going to struggle. I'm no expert on lithium cells, but when I bought mine on Amazon for this setup I was really put off by the number of terrible reviews almost all of the make/model cells had on Amazon in the US. There wasn't a single product that had over 3/5 reviews that had sold more than a dozen units. I opted to go through a site dedicated to selling flashlight batteries, as they at least had some more quality offerings.
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The repeated issues with this groupset are almost pushing me towards disregarding the groupset entirely and move to shimano. As a final and desperate move, I will try it with higher quality batteries. Thanks for the input all.
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The repeated issues with this groupset are almost pushing me towards disregarding the groupset entirely and move to shimano. As a final and desperate move, I will try it with higher quality batteries. Thanks for the input all.
WheelTop! WheelTop, WheelTop EDS...
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The repeated issues with this groupset are almost pushing me towards disregarding the groupset entirely and move to shimano. As a final and desperate move, I will try it with higher quality batteries. Thanks for the input all.
Not sure if this prognosis is exhaustive, but there is probably a problem with 1 of the 14500 batteries I had on my bike. Just compared two "new" 14500 batteries which were giving ±4 volts. The ones installed were giving ±3v (which apparently is the cutoff?) and ±3.5v.
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Not sure if this prognosis is exhaustive, but there is probably a problem with 1 of the 14500 batteries I had on my bike. Just compared two "new" 14500 batteries which were giving ±4 volts. The ones installed were giving ±3v (which apparently is the cutoff?) and ±3.5v.
4,2V = fully charged. 3V is definately empty and very low
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These look OK at first sight: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005871463985.html
Reviews are good and people seem to have measured them. Capacity even looks higher than stated.
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The repeated issues with this groupset are almost pushing me towards disregarding the groupset entirely and move to shimano. As a final and desperate move, I will try it with higher quality batteries. Thanks for the input all.
If you want to nerd out, you can buy a lithium battery tester. I have an EUC i use to ride around town, and i've had extensive problems with its battery, so i've become pretty knowledgeable about lithium. Testing cells is often step 1.
In Europe there's a reputable shop that sells 14500 batteries that's been recommended here several times. I bought mine locally and they're shit, in the sense they have low capacity, but they do work.
To be fair to LTWOO, lithium on planes is such a ridiculous ordeal that it makes sense that as a direct to consumer brand, they have the option to sell groups w/o batteries. It's also in line in spirit with right to repair and all that. Regulations around carrying even the smallest of batteries is stupidly strict, not unlike limiting ebikes at 25kmh. Laws that defy all common sense.
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Contrary to other bad experiences, my ER9 groupset has been working really well. It took a few rides to iron out the kinks, but right now it's running near perfect. I'd almost be tempted to buy another ER9 set! Though I bought it with really low expectations, with the belief it will fail on me at any given moment. If you want race ready equipment with money spent on R&D, extensive customer support and quality assurance, no one should be buying any components from AliExpress!
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I didn't mean to give the wrong impression, because I'm very much a fan of their over-the-counter solution to the battery pack. The $150+ battery pack for the Di2 system is no doubt using exactly the same cells in the same setup as the Ltwoo pack. The only difference is that when the Di2 pack dies, you throw it away and buy a new one from Shimano for another $150+. If you are able to source quality cells, then this pack by Ltwoo is amazing. I chose to buy from a flashlight website because the flashlight consumers have been buying and reviewing and having high expectations of their lithium cells for many years now. They seem to give in-depth accounts of various cells' capacity, quality, current handling, etc.
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Which 14500 type is actually the right one for the battery pack? With or without IC Protection/PCB? And do they require a raised pole or the flat type (height differs between 49 - 51mm)?
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I'm using Skywolfeye 14500 Battery 1200mAh Li-ion 3.7V Rechargeable batteries and they've been working great.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155465836365 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/155465836365)
I do wonder if batteries make a difference with some of these bad ER9 groupsets? It's the only major variable besides environmental conditions and riding style (race, commuter, etc.). Perhaps bad batteries could cause RDs to fail?
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I'm using Skywolfeye 14500 Battery 1200mAh Li-ion 3.7V Rechargeable batteries and they've been working great.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155465836365 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/155465836365)
I do wonder if batteries make a difference with some of these bad ER9 groupsets? It's the only major variable besides environmental conditions and riding style (race, commuter, etc.). Perhaps bad batteries could cause RDs to fail?
Yes, I can confirm the batteries are an important part. The issue of not being able to charge for more than 10 seconds immediately changed after replacing them. During the fixing process, it was also quite obvious that the charger is quite important. I had multiple rides in a row where the derailleur died mid-ride (even though charging them during the night). I will circle back after the next couple of rides to see whether the issues continue.
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I'm based in Germany. I used cells from German company (reseller?) PATONA. They do all kinds of batteries including big ones for e-scooters and e-bikes. They were slightly more expensive - something like double the price of the cheap stuff on Amazon. But they're working reliably. I guess you really shouldn't save money on the battery.
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On a different topic, does anybody know which OSPW is compatible with this groupset? Not too long ago, I placed LTWOO's OSPW on an indoor bike, and the difference in sound is dramatic. Can we use the same one, and if so, which version specifically?
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i used to use a battery pack thinking it was charging, it wasn't really. I've been using a wall socket, works much better. I wouldn't charge less than once a week though, the battery doesn't last that long (I did use $hit batteries, to be fair, i tested their capacity at 320-380mah each).
Thanks for this. I ended up getting these: EBL14500 3.7V 800mAh Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries from walmart.com. So far so good!
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Issues with 12 speed cassettes. I am having a problem getting it to shift into the last 11 tooth cog on two different wheelsets. I have backed off the limit screw so much that it has over-shifted on the outboard side so I don't think the limit screw is the problem. It will actually shift to the 11 and then about 2 seconds later it shifts back up to the 12. if i hold the button down, it will stay in the 11 but as soon as I release the shift button, it shifts back to the 12. I did replace the wonky looking narrow/wide type pulley with one from a 6800 ultegra derailleur I had laying around. That helped shifting all over but the 11 cog is a mystery. When I use an 11 speed wheel and change it to 11 speed in the settings, it has no issue shifting the entire range.
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Issues with 12 speed cassettes. I am having a problem getting it to shift into the last 11 tooth cog on two different wheelsets. I have backed off the limit screw so much that it has over-shifted on the outboard side so I don't think the limit screw is the problem. It will actually shift to the 11 and then about 2 seconds later it shifts back up to the 12. if i hold the button down, it will stay in the 11 but as soon as I release the shift button, it shifts back to the 12. I did replace the wonky looking narrow/wide type pulley with one from a 6800 ultegra derailleur I had laying around. That helped shifting all over but the 11 cog is a mystery. When I use an 11 speed wheel and change it to 11 speed in the settings, it has no issue shifting the entire range.
Which front chainring are you in while you're attempting this? Is it, perhaps, trying to prevent cross-chaining and shifting to the same ratio but with a different front chainring?
I believe I read a post where someone was pulling their hair out over their Wheeltop electronic derailleur doing something like this before realizing it was a feature not a bug.
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Issues with 12 speed cassettes. I am having a problem getting it to shift into the last 11 tooth cog on two different wheelsets. I have backed off the limit screw so much that it has over-shifted on the outboard side so I don't think the limit screw is the problem. It will actually shift to the 11 and then about 2 seconds later it shifts back up to the 12. if i hold the button down, it will stay in the 11 but as soon as I release the shift button, it shifts back to the 12. I did replace the wonky looking narrow/wide type pulley with one from a 6800 ultegra derailleur I had laying around. That helped shifting all over but the 11 cog is a mystery. When I use an 11 speed wheel and change it to 11 speed in the settings, it has no issue shifting the entire range.
I'm running a 12 speed cassette with no issues. Check your lower limit screw and also try fine tuning in the app. I have my ER9 tuned using gear protection and optimal shifting for climbing in my small chainring. Though I can shift big/big and small/small no issue.
Also check that your derailleur hanger is aligned properly and that your cassette is seated properly in the freehub. I've noticed 12 speed is a bit more finicky so any little thing out of adjustment can affect shifting.
Worst case scenario is reset all settings using the app and start fresh. Make sure to double check if your RD is properly screwed into the derailleur hanger. Good luck!
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Just to verify, you're on a 12 speed chain right? ;D
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I'm running a 12 speed cassette with no issues. Check your lower limit screw and also try fine tuning in the app. I have my ER9 tuned using gear protection and optimal shifting for climbing in my small chainring. Though I can shift big/big and small/small no issue.
Also check that your derailleur hanger is aligned properly and that your cassette is seated properly in the freehub. I've noticed 12 speed is a bit more finicky so any little thing out of adjustment can affect shifting.
Worst case scenario is reset all settings using the app and start fresh. Make sure to double check if your RD is properly screwed into the derailleur hanger. Good luck!
It's not a limit issue that I can tell but I will double check. When I back out the screw it will over shift outboard. I can adjust the trim on the 12 cog to go over to the 11 and it will stay there, but it will not shift to the 11 and stay, I do not have gear protection turned on and it is doing the same in both chainrings up front. Next stop is the factory reset and redoing the 6th gear calibration. Or swap back to the 11 speed cassette. Yes, I use 12 speed chains on all my bikes.
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Try the seventh gear recalibration.
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You could have a bad 12 speed cassette. I would try another 12 speed cassette if possible, do a hard reset on the groupset and see if that will help. If it shifts an 11 speed cassette fine, it should work fine for 12 speed. Something tells me the issue must be hardware related. So you'll have to do your best to narrow down the possibilities.
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You could have a bad 12 speed cassette. I would try another 12 speed cassette if possible, do a hard reset on the groupset and see if that will help. If it shifts an 11 speed cassette fine, it should work fine for 12 speed. Something tells me the issue must be hardware related. So you'll have to do your best to narrow down the possibilities.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions, it is working!! A combination of doing the factory reset via the app and performing the calibration again was the trick. Speaking of hinky cassettes, I think both of my Ultegra cassettes are weird in different places. I get some chattering in a couple of places on one and the other has a bad tooth on the 16 cog that needs some shaving, but other than that, I can shift equally well on ER9 and Ultegra.
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Bit of a shower thought, what is stopping LTWOO (and shimano for that matter because they are 100% in the same boat) from pooping out a MTB shifter? 95% of the research and development is done already with the road groupset, wouldn't they just have to rewire the electronics into a dropbar shifter and merge their MTB derailleur with the clutch and the eGR derailleur? No complicated STI, no front mech etc. What is stopping them, patents?
Also, why not supply titanium bolts for ERX? Would cost them at most another $10 to produce for an easy 50 gram save which would make it competitive with stock duraace in terms of weight
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Ltwoo already have flatbar electronic shifters in their cazalogue, just dont seem to be selling them yet
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Ltwoo already have flatbar electronic shifters in their cazalogue, just dont seem to be selling them yet
Yes, and they already are selling a MTB style e-shifter with their universal electronic shifting system (that retrofits to mechanical derailleurs).
I'm kind of interested in how cross-comptaible all their wireless electronic gear is. For instance, is it possible to integrate their current mtb style shifter with the eGR or eR9/eRX system? For that matter, does an eGR shifter work with the eR9/eRX?
I know some people have bought eR9 and eGR at or around the same time. I'm really hoping someone tries swapping some of these parts and can report back.
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Yes, and they already are selling a MTB style e-shifter with their universal electronic shifting system (that retrofits to mechanical derailleurs).
I'm kind of interested in how cross-comptaible all their wireless electronic gear is. For instance, is it possible to integrate their current mtb style shifter with the eGR or eR9/eRX system? For that matter, does an eGR shifter work with the eR9/eRX?
I know some people have bought eR9 and eGR at or around the same time. I'm really hoping someone tries swapping some of these parts and can report back.
I'm sure the electronic hardware behind the ER9/X and EGR are similar if not the same. The question is if the software will allow the ER9/X and EGR components to "talk" to each other? Also I'm curious if LTwoo's AE MTB electronic shift mechanism can talk to ER9/X and EGR shifters? If so you could create a mullet electronic setup using something like the GRX 820 RD and LTwoo wireless shifters or create a 2x mullet shifting something like 105 12 speed RD, while using an ER9/X FD + shifters.
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Likely the egr mech doesnt support 2x as the rd is the only reciever in the drivetrain and needs to send a signal to shift to the fd. The egr and new erx levers are identical
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Likely the egr mech doesnt support 2x as the rd is the only reciever in the drivetrain and needs to send a signal to shift to the fd. The egr and new erx levers are identical
I remember Trace Velo had problems with his FD not working since it couldn't communicate with the RD which was most likely the main receiver for the shifters. The FD itself doesn't communicate directly. Though it'd be interesting to know if you could mix shifters across various electronic groupset. Like using the LTwoo AE MTB e-shifter mechanism (not sure what to call it) with ER9/X shifters. That would open up the possibilities for other 1x drivetrains at least.
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I remember Trace Velo had problems with his FD not working since it couldn't communicate with the RD which was most likely the main receiver for the shifters. The FD itself doesn't communicate directly. Though it'd be interesting to know if you could mix shifters across various electronic groupset. Like using the LTwoo AE MTB e-shifter mechanism (not sure what to call it) with ER9/X shifters. That would open up the possibilities for other 1x drivetrains at least.
Ltwoo already have flatbar electronic shifters in their cazalogue, just dont seem to be selling them yet
these literally exist for this exact purpose
http://oss.ltwoo.com/pdf/V1.3_2024-L-TWOO%20-PRODUCT_CATALOG.pdf page 27
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Another interesting tidbit from that catalogue, looks like (probably as expected) we should see new ER9 soon to match new ERX.
(https://i.imgur.com/Im3RmvR.png)
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Do we know what's different? From the panda podium video I didn't understand what changed with the new erx (with the exception of the brakes but i don't think anyone had any issue with the brakes, I certainly didn't).
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Do we know what's different? From the panda podium video I didn't understand what changed with the new erx (with the exception of the brakes but i don't think anyone had any issue with the brakes, I certainly didn't).
Hopefully they improved the mechanic design as well as the water protection ..... 8)
I was just thinking about your rear derailleur failure description (the one failing after some tough decent) if it's a smart idea to ride something similar on a MTB with all that mechanic shocks.
I don't think so frankly. If there's a general design flaw this kind of sickness usually gets the whole " product family".
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Do we know what's different? From the panda podium video I didn't understand what changed with the new erx (with the exception of the brakes but i don't think anyone had any issue with the brakes, I certainly didn't).
The FD cage shape was the other external change with the newer blue edition. Not sure what internal changes if any were done though.
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https://youtu.be/HUxLUQI2-Us?si=vFeF6ydXi8e9R4er&t=671
New ERX will have USB C charging on the FD.
They didn't have to do it, but how nice of them. As a right to repair enthusiast L-Twoo is scoring very high for me between the full gear trim and speed selection, user replaceable battery and now this
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Joe from China Cycling at Shanghai bike show just showed the newly updated (again) Blue edition of eRX will come with USB-C charging port on the front derailleur. That is just awesome! L-Twoo clearly thinks of the ease of use for end users. Pretty exciting, to be honest.
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https://youtu.be/HUxLUQI2-Us?si=vFeF6ydXi8e9R4er&t=671
New ERX will have USB C charging on the FD.
They didn't have to do it, but how nice of them. As a right to repair enthusiast L-Twoo is scoring very high for me between the full gear trim and speed selection, user replaceable battery and now this
Ah! I posted my comment only a few moment after you did. Yeah! It's very nice of them. I am now eagerly waiting for the much improved eRX.
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After ride number 5 where the shifters stopped working, I have finally reached the point of permanently moving forward. Is there a way to use parts (such as the breaking calipers) in a shimano groupset?
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After ride number 5 where the shifters stopped working, I have finally reached the point of permanently moving forward. Is there a way to use parts (such as the breaking calipers) in a shimano groupset?
Yes, the brake calipers use BH59 and mineral oil same as shimano, you can use them with shimano shifters
The battery, derailleurs and shifters however you can't reuse, they are a package deal
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Yet another problem with my er9. So, 2 RD died for no reason, that's being sorted.
But last night I put the er9 on my road bike to charge ahead of a mountain ride today. Battery was over 70pc when I put it to charge, I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't run out. In the morning, I start the ride, two bars as per be Garmin unit. And it wasn't a fluke. I did the whole ride trying not to shift and the battery died at the very end of the ride.
I plugged it in the wall. It was blinking green. It's not exactly the first time I handle the stuff.
So wtf happened this time? How is charging overnight actually draining the battery? Like wtf?
I am losing patience here. I really want that stuff to work, but man... This is really testing my patience, I feel like I should be getting paid to ride that stuff and debug it.
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Yet another problem with my er9. So, 2 RD died for no reason, that's being sorted.
But last night I put the er9 on my road bike to charge ahead of a mountain ride today. Battery was over 70pc when I put it to charge, I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't run out. In the morning, I start the ride, two bars as per be Garmin unit. And it wasn't a fluke. I did the whole ride trying not to shift and the battery died at the very end of the ride.
I plugged it in the wall. It was blinking green. It's not exactly the first time I handle the stuff.
So wtf happened this time? How is charging overnight actually draining the battery? Like wtf?
I am losing patience here. I really want that stuff to work, but man... This is really testing my patience, I feel like I should be getting paid to ride that stuff and debug it.
Oh man! At this point, you should get honorary membership for their QA team.
On my last ride, I also seemed to have sudden shift when hitting small potholes. I thought it was one time thing, but then it happened quite a few more times. This was on my second eR9 set. I will keep monitoring this and raise concerns it keeps happening.
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Another interesting tidbit from that catalogue, looks like (probably as expected) we should see new ER9 soon to match new ERX.
(https://i.imgur.com/Im3RmvR.png)
I don't understand why the range on the RD is so small. The latest Shimano 12 speed rear mechs all go to 36.
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Yet another problem with my er9. So, 2 RD died for no reason, that's being sorted.
But last night I put the er9 on my road bike to charge ahead of a mountain ride today. Battery was over 70pc when I put it to charge, I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't run out. In the morning, I start the ride, two bars as per be Garmin unit. And it wasn't a fluke. I did the whole ride trying not to shift and the battery died at the very end of the ride.
I plugged it in the wall. It was blinking green. It's not exactly the first time I handle the stuff.
So wtf happened this time? How is charging overnight actually draining the battery? Like wtf?
I am losing patience here. I really want that stuff to work, but man... This is really testing my patience, I feel like I should be getting paid to ride that stuff and debug it.
I had exactly the same thing a couple of hours ago. Previous derailleur died of water ingress. It seems like one bump on the road fried the 2nd one.
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I'm on the opposite spectrum of ER9/X users on here, because my ER9 has been working great. Shifts are spot on and no issues with battery drain. My groupset has been used almost exclusively for climbing on rough mountain roads, so it's not like it's being babied either with the full range of shifting being used. It's been so good I want to buy another ER9. I'm not the most OCD bike mechanic, but I try to make sure everything runs smoothly.
Maybe I'm using some sort of goldilocks combination where everything is working just right or maybe my groupset was built on a Wednesday so QC was a bit better that day! ;D
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After ride number 5 where the shifters stopped working, I have finally reached the point of permanently moving forward. Is there a way to use parts (such as the breaking calipers) in a shimano groupset?
I'm using LTwoo calipers on my other Ultegra mechanical road bike. They work pretty good and I was able to standardize my 3 bikes with the same brake pads (GRX, Ultegra and LTwoo).
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Joe from China Cycling is in the shanghai bike shoe, in his video of day 2, he is talking of the ERx blue edition V2, seems they made some upgrade especially on the charging port which is now usb C and on the FD.
https://youtu.be/HUxLUQI2-Us?t=485 (https://youtu.be/HUxLUQI2-Us?t=485)
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I'm on the opposite spectrum of ER9/X users on here, because my ER9 has been working great.
Well, you haven't had it for that long so too early to tell, I'd say.
Mine's also working fine still all the way through a very wet winter here. I'm past 3000k/1800miles now. I too am cautiously optimistic that I might have a well working unit. But so thought SergeK, until they all broke down on him.
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Wonder how eGR will be charged if it gets redesigned since there's no FD. Not very streamlinely of them
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Well, you haven't had it for that long so too early to tell, I'd say.
Mine's also working fine still all the way through a very wet winter here. I'm past 3000k/1800miles now. I too am cautiously optimistic that I might have a well working unit. But so thought SergeK, until they all broke down on him.
Exactly... Until everything went to shit i was saying the stuff's amazing.
I charged / tried to charge my group last night after it died yesterday. Charged all night. This morning it was at 77%. Plugged into the wall, no funny business. So... idk. I doubt it's supposed to take more than 12h to fully charge. Which then means there's something that's not working properly. But i'm not in the mood to try to figure it out now.
i have put 3500km on the er9 on my road bike since Feb24.
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Check the charger or the batteries.
Mine does about 7000-8000 shifts before it drops to 30%
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Joe from China Cycling is in the shanghai bike shoe, in his video of day 2, he is talking of the ERx blue edition V2, seems they made some upgrade especially on the charging port which is now usb C and on the FD.
https://youtu.be/HUxLUQI2-Us?t=485 (https://youtu.be/HUxLUQI2-Us?t=485)
Hello,
I realized yesterday, watching TraceVelo video about bike rack, he is testing the eRx blue edition. Were checking videos and shorts (to know from when) but he did not mention anything about it. He will want to make a good evaluation before giving an opinion.
Greetings!!
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Hello,
I realized yesterday, watching TraceVelo video about bike rack, he is testing the eRx blue edition. Were checking videos and shorts (to know from when) but he did not mention anything about it. He will want to make a good evaluation before giving an opinion.
Greetings!!
His is eRX "blue" "v1". A revision but not the latest Joe showed with usb c
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Well, you haven't had it for that long so too early to tell, I'd say.
Mine's also working fine still all the way through a very wet winter here. I'm past 3000k/1800miles now. I too am cautiously optimistic that I might have a well working unit. But so thought SergeK, until they all broke down on him.
I live in one the best climates for cycling so wet and/or cold weather isn't an issue for me. Though I did take all the preventative precautions for the battery cables. If the weather is wet, either I ride an indoor trainer or I take my gravel bike instead. I used the ER9 as an excuse to move to both 12 speed and electronic.
I'll be the first to report back if I have any issues, but I chanced getting the groupset knowing I wouldn't be riding in extreme weather.
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Thank you for the 51 pages of comments to the eR9 and eRX, very useful and interesting information!
During the recent sale I could not resist to get an eR9 without batteries that came in delivered around 300US$.
A great price if the thing works...
For context, I upgraded my mostly indoor Zwift bike with the eR9 since the shifting performance of the GR9 never was great and the thumb shifter is not my cup of tea after trying it for several months. I think the poor shifting performance may have been due to the tight bends of the shifter cable due to the fully integrated handlebar. Going to wireless electric shifting did the trick for me...
I had the GR9 hydraulic levers paired with the Zrace XG calipers, design, weight and color choice were attractive at the time.
My experience with the calipers was less than stelar... the back brake did never work, even after several bleeds. The brake feeling was always soft and not very assuring on steep downhill rides. Installed the heavier L-Twoo calipers and breaking feel and performance is now good.
I am running the eR9 in a 1x11 speed configuration, due to the existing chain and cassette.
I really like the future proof option to upgrade to 1x12 or 2x12 if I want to experiment.
Reading about the water ingress on the deraileur, I decided to use a heat shrink tube to slide over the port of the rear derailleur and then shrieked it to seal the cable in place. I expect this to solve the issue for the time being.
Getting the L-Two app to work is a bit of an issue since the default language is Chinese... after some online search I figured out how to switch the language. Other than that the App is easy to use and the option to fine tune each gear to the tolerances of your cassette is a great feature.
I currently run 46t x 11-36t for my indoor setup, no problem with the B screw to get 36t working even without a deraileur extender.
Time will tell how good the system works and if the batteries discharge quickly. Since use the bike mostly indoors it should at least not cause any issues with water ingress.
(https://i.ibb.co/WHn2gtx/IMG-2725.png) (https://ibb.co/nwrLzCg)
BR
Chris
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I really like these emonda looking frames. If you ever see one capable of taking 32C, please message me.
I actually rode today with a guy who has a 6000 EUR emonda di2. Such a nice bike. He's an ex pro so in my book he's allowed to spend 6k on a bike :p
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I really like these emonda looking frames. If you ever see one capable of taking 32C, please message me.
I actually rode today with a guy who has a 6000 EUR emonda di2. Such a nice bike. He's an ex pro so in my book he's allowed to spend 6k on a bike :p
32mm wide tires would be pushing it to the limit... I currently use 30mm Conti GP5000 and there is still room to go a bit wider.
BR
Chris
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I had the GR9 hydraulic levers paired with the Zrace XG calipers, design, weight and color choice were attractive at the time.
My experience with the calipers was less than stelar... the back brake did never work, even after several bleeds. The brake feeling was always soft and not very assuring on steep downhill rides. Installed the heavier L-Twoo calipers and breaking feel and performance is now good.
This is funny, I just did the opposite. My LTwoo calipers worked fine, but the weight gain going with the ER9 was bugging me. I had ZRace XG calipers I bought on a whim awhile back and decided to install them. In the process I also opted to switch to 140mm rear rotors and cut a few extra grams. I didn't even do a proper bleed since I did a direct swap with the calipers. Brake feel is surprisingly good with the ER9 levers. The weight savings is quite significant because I cut about 100g from the calipers.
BTW - do you have a photo of your heat shrink cables? I'm using a coat of rubber cement + dielectric grease on my cables, but now I'm realizing it's a bit of a dirt magnet. I'd prefer a much cleaner application if possible!
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This is funny, I just did the opposite. My LTwoo calipers worked fine, but the weight gain going with the ER9 was bugging me. I had ZRace XG calipers I bought on a whim awhile back and decided to install them. In the process I also opted to switch to 140mm rear rotors and cut a few extra grams. I didn't even do a proper bleed since I did a direct swap with the calipers. Brake feel is surprisingly good with the ER9 levers. The weight savings is quite significant because I cut about 100g from the calipers.
BTW - do you have a photo of your heat shrink cables? I'm using a coat of rubber cement + dielectric grease on my cables, but now I'm realizing it's a bit of a dirt magnet. I'd prefer a much cleaner application if possible!
Very pretty build (with the exception of that saddle bag :)!
What frame is that?
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Very pretty build (with the exception of that saddle bag :)!
What frame is that?
It's a TFSA disc frameset (SL6 clone). I believe TFSA is the OEM for the Delihea framesets as well. I initially bought it because it was cheap, but surprisingly it's held up to quite a bit of abuse.
Though if I were to build a new bike I'd probably go with one the Aethos clones floating around. There's just too much climbing in my area!
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I'm really excited for the TT brake and shifters LTWOO had on display at the Shanghai bike show. Maybe I'll be able to build an electric shifting tri bike under 8k aud
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Well, especially as a triathlet i would stay away from ltwoo on my racebike..not many races i participate and loads of training...thrown away if you have a faulty whatever....
i mean, this is so typical chinese...they ignore the problems, give you a hard time when something is defective , do not change it fast and after loosing trust in the brand due to lacking reliability, they try to enter triathlon.....?
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Yeah given the failure rate on the er9/erx, i'd wait a good 2 years after they RELEASE the triathlon version to put it on a race day bike. race bikes have to work on race day, enough things can go wrong without worrying about whether your group will decide to shift that day.
Eventually though, if they do get their act together, it will indeed be great. Should also open the doors to the "order a full custom bike from china straight to your door" market. Everything is in Xiamen, once their groups work, should be very doable to get someone to build you a bike, or at least most of it, the way Trek bikes arrive in shops, for eg (plenty of videos of Trek unboxing on YT).
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The reason why I've sold my EGR group. Travelling for those gravel races can't have an issue at race day. Road bike same but if it happens so be it, a race every week ..
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...if they do get their act together, it will indeed be great. Should also open the doors to the "order a full custom bike from china straight to your door" market. Everything is in Xiamen, once their groups work, should be very doable to get someone to build you a bike, or at least most of it, the way Trek bikes arrive in shops, for eg (plenty of videos of Trek unboxing on YT).
Don't forget the market pressure on SRAM and Shimano to price their stuff more reasonably or at least offer lower-end electronic parts. Ocme economies of scale kick in, there's no reason why electronic parts should command such a premium price compared to mechanical groupsets. There's SO many small precise parts that need to fit and function perfectly in order for a 10-11-12 speed groupset to shift reliably, and do so over hundreds and thousands of miles of use. I can't wrap my head around why that is the cheaper option, other than it's tried and true, they have supply networks all in place, the design and engineering for manufacturing is all in place already, etc. etc. and momentum carries it all forward.
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Purely because ppl are willing to pay more for electronic
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There might be some R&D costs that went into electronic group sets they are still trying to pay off, even if manufacturing should be cheaper than mechanical
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There might be some R&D costs that went into electronic group sets they are still trying to pay off, even if manufacturing should be cheaper than mechanical
That's wishful thinking unfortunately. These companies have been patent trolling for years, it's been the new rule of the game for many years. A friend used to be an intellectual property lawyer in London, representing the likes of Amazon. It is impossible to imagine how cunning these companies are at preventing competition. Amazon for example has patented so much shit related to conveyor belts that it's almost impossible to achieve their efficiency without tripping patents. Is it fair? Absolutely not.
SRAM and Shimano do essentially the same thing.
At these price levels, it's pure price gouging. Especially when you consider the price difference between OEM pricing and retail pricing, especially on Shimano.
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Hi i have problem with er9 one of you have simillar problem.
Problem is happend again (5 rides and 2 same situation), same situation, straight road without any holes, and system go down. This happend with some combination of front from 1 to second and on rear and back. After plug charger system turn on (new battery). happend when i tried to shift both derailleurs at the same time??
Front from big to small and back vice versa.?
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Yeah given the failure rate on the er9/erx, i'd wait a good 2 years after they RELEASE the triathlon version to put it on a race day bike. race bikes have to work on race day, enough things can go wrong without worrying about whether your group will decide to shift that day.
Eventually though, if they do get their act together, it will indeed be great. Should also open the doors to the "order a full custom bike from china straight to your door" market. Everything is in Xiamen, once their groups work, should be very doable to get someone to build you a bike, or at least most of it, the way Trek bikes arrive in shops, for eg (plenty of videos of Trek unboxing on YT).
Well, frankly speaking, that is a common chinese problem and i have only worked with one company on complete different level: DJI
We started the business with them and they listened to our reviews, tips etc....the founders rolemodel was steve jobs...we started with them when they had 7 employees...look at them now..
Ltwoo ist just another chinese company who does not know, how big the potencial would be, if they would erase issues immediately, even better, not having those issues...at the end, they are money driven and do not understand, that spending this little extra money in making the product perfect NOW would skyrocket sales...
With launching these product too early, they basically destroyed the brand..yes, all the aliexpres cheapo guys buy the stuff, but the quantity comes from manufacturers and distributors. And we will see, if all those electronic groupsets do hurt any patents, when the big player lawyers come into the game...
We did end up very disappointed with the way ltwoo treated our problems...they do not trust us and wanted to see videos of the broken product? yeah...a dead product makes a great video...
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Don't forget the market pressure on SRAM and Shimano to price their stuff more reasonably or at least offer lower-end electronic parts. Ocme economies of scale kick in, there's no reason why electronic parts should command such a premium price compared to mechanical groupsets. There's SO many small precise parts that need to fit and function perfectly in order for a 10-11-12 speed groupset to shift reliably, and do so over hundreds and thousands of miles of use. I can't wrap my head around why that is the cheaper option, other than it's tried and true, they have supply networks all in place, the design and engineering for manufacturing is all in place already, etc. etc. and momentum carries it all forward.
well, you buy an insurance for having a great day on a bike not breaking down somewhere or dnf a race, that is what people pay for: TRUST in the brand....of course, i do know guys who buy stuff because its cheap and they would never admit, that they have trouble with it...
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On the plus side of LTwoo's missteps, it's allowed more Chinese groupset competition to catch up. Wheeltop and soon Magene will also be in the electronic groupset market. I haven't heard anything from Sensah, but if they do make an electronic groupset there will be four potential players. Whoever can step up quality and customer service will own the Chinese cycling market which is on the rise.
I think within the next 3-5 years one of these companies will come out on top. Also that's the number that was thrown around for a Chinese sponsored cycling team to enter the World Tour. That means one of these manufacturers will really need to step up reliability if they want to represent.
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well, you buy an insurance for having a great day on a bike not breaking down somewhere or dnf a race, that is what people pay for: TRUST in the brand....of course, i do know guys who buy stuff because its cheap and they would never admit, that they have trouble with it...
That's assuming that Shimano and SRAM components never have issues, which is far from the case. I wasn't really paying attention when the first electronic group sets became common, but others comment that they had their issues, even on race days. I would assume they still do, to a much lesser degree, though the rare times they still have issues the problems are probably more quickly and painlessly corrected.
Also, engineering and design missteps are still non unheard of for the big boys, as stories of Shimano's delaminating cranks caused many people huge headaches and even injuries.
But I wasn't talking about the upper end of the market. I was talking about the mid and lower tiers, where electronic geoupsets can really shine on a price/performance ratio, but Shimano and SRAM keep the tech walled off to only high performance and super high price because they have no real reason not to price it as such. Now, perhaps, they'll have a reason.
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On Shimano failing, the Nero podcast that just came out, Chris flew across Australia for a race and his di2 died at the start of the race.
I feel everyone who has SRAM has several stories about groups running out of juice. The batteries on SRAM are notoriously bad.
The documentary Icarus that was so interesting about the guy doping for the haute route event. He dnfed because his di2 died.
Maybe the morale of the story is to run mechanical.
But my hope is that L-TWOO will improve their products. Maybe in 3 years they will make stuff that's just as reliable as the big guys. I hope so.
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Just a heads up with the ER9. I found if shifting maybe 3-4 gears without pedaling, you can derail the chain and jam it on the RD cage. I also ended up scruffing up the inner cage plate. I'm way too OCD, so I removed it, sanded it down and repainted the cage matte black with some paint primer.
It does make me wish there were some optional cage replacements in case of major damage.
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That's assuming that Shimano and SRAM components never have issues, which is far from the case. I wasn't really paying attention when the first electronic group sets became common, but others comment that they had their issues, even on race days. I would assume they still do, to a much lesser degree, though the rare times they still have issues the problems are probably more quickly and painlessly corrected.
Also, engineering and design missteps are still non unheard of for the big boys, as stories of Shimano's delaminating cranks caused many people huge headaches and even injuries.
But I wasn't talking about the upper end of the market. I was talking about the mid and lower tiers, where electronic geoupsets can really shine on a price/performance ratio, but Shimano and SRAM keep the tech walled off to only high performance and super high price because they have no real reason not to price it as such. Now, perhaps, they'll have a reason.
maybe true....but i have never had a hassle when quality problems occured with the big players., shimano swapped all the faulty stuff without a hassle, ....Ltwoo knows about all those issues, but keeps selling these faulty groups and generates more frustration on users and sellers side....with this behaviour, it should be a no brainer for them to help customers getting the group running...or take the stuff back?
in my base, groups did not work and no one helped or asks for videos...we are just beeing ignored..
i am doing chinese business for 25 years now....we started with ltwoo and big motivation to establish a brand against to big ones...at the end, it was just a waste of time..the mechanical groupsets work well, but with aliexpress selling cheaper than ltwoo to dealers?
It was just a waste of time.
DJI for instance had faulty stuff, too....all these items where collected and deducted from next orders..with this, we never had problems selling quantities, as we knew DJi will help....so the market had no problems with minor issues....these issues were solved within 2 weeks..and a plan was established how to proceed with the products on the market....
It seems LTWOO does not have the capacity to concentrate on these products as they are busy with domestic sales with entry groupsets....
Look at sensah...the were one of the first companies at the starting line....but they are way behind now...
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Sory for post my problem again but this is new er9 from Aliexpress, ltwoo and store from few days are off ;/ Total silence od ther side ;/
problem with er9 one of you have simillar problem (i have PM him).
straight road without any holes, and system go down. This happend with some combination of front from 1 to second and on rear and back. After plug charger system turn on (new battery). happend when i tried to shift both derailleurs at the same time??
Front from big to small and back vice versa.
Yesterday i have test it without gear protection in app (off) and while on FD move from 1 to 2 then all OFF. When gear protection is on i can change at FD gears few times and when chanigng in not smooth system of, this looks like some of protection?? In my opinion FD is quite good adjust at 2x11
53-36T and 11-25T
Thanks for any help
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Sory for post my problem again but this is new er9 from Aliexpress, ltwoo and store from few days are off ;/ Total silence od ther side ;/
problem with er9 one of you have simillar problem (i have PM him).
straight road without any holes, and system go down. This happend with some combination of front from 1 to second and on rear and back. After plug charger system turn on (new battery). happend when i tried to shift both derailleurs at the same time??
Front from big to small and back vice versa.
Yesterday i have test it without gear protection in app (off) and while on FD move from 1 to 2 then all OFF. When gear protection is on i can change at FD gears few times and when chanigng in not smooth system of, this looks like some of protection?? In my opinion FD is quite good adjust at 2x11
53-36T and 11-25T
Thanks for any help
Thats me and nope no solution yet. Just for saftey reasons that i by mistake shift both exactly at the same time i put my charging cable and a usb-a to ubs-c adapter in my saddlebag, so i can connect the rd to my phone as a charging device and get it working again.
Maybe some pseudo "calibration" needs to be done, because mine thought it was in the smales cog altough it was in the middle of the cassette
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Thats me and nope no solution yet. Just for saftey reasons that i by mistake shift both exactly at the same time i put my charging cable and a usb-a to ubs-c adapter in my saddlebag, so i can connect the rd to my phone as a charging device and get it working again.
Maybe some pseudo "calibration" needs to be done, because mine thought it was in the smales cog altough it was in the middle of the cassette
you run 2x11 or 12? Yestrerday I was testing and with gear protection off my system go down after only one change from 1 to 2 at front, with gear protection on this situation happend less often. I think this is connected with some adjusment of FD, when shift on front is smooth then is ok, when not system is blocking.
I'm in contact with Ltwoo and Store from aliexpress ,but damn, they are silent ;/ Support even not exist
Could somone whith 53-36 on front take photo of FD when is at second gear ( now mine is set with sticker 3mm up the tooth) and screen with calibration for FD on 1 and 2 gear (i know that this depends which frame, hanger etc.)
//Edit: I have contact with a few people with Ltwoo and I have tommorow video call or chat with someone from tech support, will see
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you run 2x11 or 12? Yestrerday I was testing and with gear protection off my system go down after only one change from 1 to 2 at front, with gear protection on this situation happend less often. I think this is connected with some adjusment of FD, when shift on front is smooth then is ok, when not system is blocking.
I'm in contact with Ltwoo and Store from aliexpress ,but damn, they are silent ;/ Support even not exist
Could somone whith 53-36 on front take photo of FD when is at second gear ( now mine is set with sticker 3mm up the tooth) and screen with calibration for FD on 1 and 2 gear (i know that this depends which frame, hanger etc.)
//Edit: I have contact with a few people with Ltwoo and I have tommorow video call or chat with someone from tech support, will see
it's 2x11 with 50-34 and 11-32
really looking forward to the outcome of your video call
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also mine is 2x11 53-36 and 11-25. I will give feedback if something tell new this support .
Edit:///
Today chat with store and fianlly nothing new, same info like
"When changing gears with shift, the crank needs to be cranked up, otherwise the RD will flash a red light and not move."
It's very hard to talk with them ;/ now again I'm waiting for any response ;/
Today I will also test with another battery, maybe there is some drops of Voltage ?? FD need more power to change gear i think
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And the disaster continues. 3rd dead er9 RD. again, randomly and for no reason. Was riding with my friend, who really hasn't used his new bike much, less than ten rides for sure. Dry, 20 Celsius, smooth asphalt, largely flat. 35km into the ride, his RD dies like the other 2. So there's my er9 on which I've put almost 4k km that's working fine (sometimes it charges weird, but at least it's working), and the fifth one isn't being used because the front wheel on that bike broke during a crash and we're still waiting for a replacement.
At which point can I preemptively ask for extra spare RDs? I'm happy to beta test, but we can't be 6 weeks without derailleurs every time one kills itself.
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And the disaster continues. 3rd dead er9 RD. again, randomly and for no reason. Was riding with my friend, who really hasn't used his new bike much, less than ten rides for sure. Dry, 20 Celsius, smooth asphalt, largely flat. 35km into the ride, his RD dies like the other 2. So there's my er9 on which I've put almost 4k km that's working fine (sometimes it charges weird, but at least it's working), and the fifth one isn't being used because the front wheel on that bike broke during a crash and we're still waiting for a replacement.
At which point can I preemptively ask for extra spare RDs? I'm happy to beta test, but we can't be 6 weeks without derailleurs every time one kills itself.
It probably wasn’t a good idea to buy 5 ER9 groupset especially since it seems LTwoo hasn’t ironed out their issues. My ER9 is still working fine, but I’m always checking to see if it’s functioning! I’m already eyeballing some cheap mechanical 105 12 speed shifters or just drop back down to 11 speed with spare Ultegra shifters if my groupset does die!
BTW - LTwoo updated the app, but I don’t see any new features. It looks like they updated it to recognize the upcoming blue edition ERX/9.
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Yeah. I wonder how high the failure rate with first gen er9 actually is. I guess we’ll never know for sure. Mine’s still fine as well. Did a 2h rainy ride today. Cleaned the bike with a pressure washer after, intentionally blasting on the derailleurs. Works fine.
But I got to admit: If it fails, I’m probably gonna bite the bullet and get 105Di2 or Sram Rival AXS instead.
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It probably wasn’t a good idea to buy 5 ER9 groupset especially since it seems LTwoo hasn’t ironed out their issues.
I agree very much, but we had 4 bikes to build up day 1 and I bought a spare in case we had one dead on arrival or breaking right at the outset.
At the time of purchase, it was pretty much the only electronic option available, and I definitely have mixed feelings with sensah mechanical, my experience has been very mixed. And routing 4 hoses in the bike instead of 2?... L-TWOO mechanical I didn't like the thumb shift thing. And Shimano/ SRAM were way out of budget.
So we're now paying the price of beta testing.
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With reading all these comments that's the reason I'm keeping my gravel mechanical. Atleast I always have a backup bike. But damn this is bad
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it's 2x11 with 50-34 and 11-32
really looking forward to the outcome of your video call
I have Fix my problem :) take voltage meter and check V of batteries 14500 should have from 2.2v?? To max 4.4 (something like that), mine have 5.2-5.5V, now long 5h ride with new batteries ( this new have 4.2v) and 0 problem, 0! :)
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My ER9 is still going strong. When it works, it's f**king great! Though I'm not ignoring the problems. Hence why I don't ride my ER9 bike in the rain & don't wash it with a hose, I rotate my bikes to minimize wear-n-tear and I don't do things like shifting both the left/right shifters at the same time.
Also I'm theorizing that some aftermarket batteries might be an issue as well. That's the one variable that differs between all the working/non-working units. This is probably why Shimano uses their own proprietary unit and SRAM insist on only using their OEM batteries. I could imagine a sh**ty battery could potentially toast the ER9/X RD electronics.
Even with all the issues and the non-existent LTwoo support, I'd probably buy another ER9 groupset when it's on sale. The performance-price-risk factor is still worth it for me.
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My ER9 is still going strong. When it works, it's f**king great! Though I'm not ignoring the problems. Hence why I don't ride my ER9 bike in the rain & don't wash it with a hose, I rotate my bikes to minimize wear-n-tear and I don't do things like shifting both the left/right shifters at the same time.
Also I'm theorizing that some aftermarket batteries might be an issue as well. That's the one variable that differs between all the working/non-working units. This is probably why Shimano uses their own proprietary unit and SRAM insist on only using their OEM batteries. I could imagine a sh**ty battery could potentially toast the ER9/X RD electronics.
Even with all the issues and the non-existent LTwoo support, I'd probably buy another ER9 groupset when it's on sale. The performance-price-risk factor is still worth it for me.
where are you located?
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where are you located?
Southern California. When it does get wet here, I usually just take my mechanical GRX gravel bike.
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Yesterday first rainy ride and groupset working without any issue :) FD and RD after changing batteries still work fine. So bat are really important here also :)
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Damn bleeding these brakes is a mess. Front brake failed to bleed multiple times.
Saw a 105 di2 group cheap around me and bought it. With all the fails, I'm gonna sell it and be safe :s
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Damn bleeding these brakes is a mess. Front brake failed to bleed multiple times.
Saw a 105 di2 group cheap around me and bought it. With all the fails, I'm gonna sell it and be safe :s
For me, it's actually quite the opposite. I have easier time bleeding the calipers, especially with the additional air port. I very much prefer L-Twoo's system compared to previous 11 speed Shimano. I haven't tried the new 12 speed system from Shimano, but I'd guess it's similar.
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Damn bleeding these brakes is a mess. Front brake failed to bleed multiple times.
Saw a 105 di2 group cheap around me and bought it. With all the fails, I'm gonna sell it and be safe :s
Check if the olive was properly crushed? It was my first time doing it and it went very smoothly for me.
https://youtu.be/cRrPe0YbDpk?si=9sCbZqYjbrZgOQGL
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For me, it's actually quite the opposite. I have easier time bleeding the calipers, especially with the additional air port. I very much prefer L-Twoo's system compared to previous 11 speed Shimano. I haven't tried the new 12 speed system from Shimano, but I'd guess it's similar.
Agree, I've bled both Shimano 11-speed 105 (R7020/R7070) and L-TWOO eR9. I found L-TWOO to be easier, the threaded bleed port on the calipers results in less mess.
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Damn bleeding these brakes is a mess. Front brake failed to bleed multiple times.
Saw a 105 di2 group cheap around me and bought it. With all the fails, I'm gonna sell it and be safe :s
Did you back off the tiny reach adjust screws in the brake levers when bleeding? They can push the master cilynder enough to block the oil flow when bleeding otherwise. You will still be able to push the oil through but with a lot of resistance and you won’t be able to get all the air out.
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Did you back off the tiny reach adjust screws in the brake levers when bleeding? They can push the master cilynder enough to block the oil flow when bleeding otherwise. You will still be able to push the oil through but with a lot of resistance and you won’t be able to get all the air out.
That was the issue, didn't know.. Saw it in the youtube video.
Thanks for the help guys.
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That was the issue, didn't know.. Saw it in the youtube video.
Thanks for the help guys.
it's also written in the LTWOO instructions manual that comes with the group, from memory.
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You're welcome. Happened to me, too. And to several others. You'll definitely remember it next time ;)
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it's also written in the LTWOO instructions manual that comes with the group, from memory.
With this group my first reaction is always this forum than youtube and last resort the manual. Think I've got my priorities wrong ;-)
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With this group my first reaction is always this forum than youtube and last resort the manual. Think I've got my priorities wrong ;-)
I actually found the manual by Ltwoo to be fairly complete and helpful. That's kind of a surprise, I know.
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eR9 issue and fix
I had an issue with my L-TWOO eR9 groupset today that I later fixed. It was most likely user error, and I'm posting it here in case it could help someone else in the same situation.
tl;dr
Problem: The front derailleur wouldn't shift, but the rear derailleur shifted just fine.
Fix: Ensure both derailleurs are firmly plugged into the battery, by unplugging them at the battery end, and firmly plugging them back in.
Likely reason: Poor connection to the seatpost battery on the battery end, possibly caused by vibrations by being transported in a car.
Other plausible reason: Dodgy batteries.
Situation
I was going for a ride in the morning, and I loaded my bike (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4952.0.html) in the boot (trunk for those of you in the US) of my sedan (saloon for those of you in the UK), lying on the side (NDS). The drive to the start of the ride took about 20 minutes. When I took my bike out of the car, the rear derailleur shifted just fine, but the front derailleur wouldn't budge.
I tried the following:
- Shift using the shifters
- Shift using the app
- Unplug the rear derailleur, wait 10 seconds, then plug it back in
- Unplug the front derailleur, wait 10 seconds, then plug it back in
- Calibrate the front derailleur using the app
- Adjust front gears using the app
- Change front derailleur high and low limits in the app
- Swap the gear shift responsibilities of the left and right shifters
- Try with one-touch shifting both on and off
- Try with gear protection both on and off
- Rear derailleur firmware update - was using version 0.1.1, no updates available
- Front derailleur firmware update - app reported current version 0.0 and latest 0.0
- Reset to factory settings - this reset all my derailleur position settings (which I fortunately had saved)
The only response I got from the front derailleur was when I plugged the front derailleur cable back in. It was a buzz reminiscent of Trace Velo's issue (https://youtu.be/32UDzOrqK2I?t=78s).
Other behaviour I noticed:
- The app reported 91% battery level.
- The app reported that I used the latest rear derailleur firmware version 0.1.1
- The app reported that I used the latest front derailleur firmware version 0.0. This was different to what it previously reported, which was 1.12
- The app would show that the front gears had changed when I used the app, but nothing happened.
- When I tried to adjust the front derailleur position for the large chainring in the app, the app showed a position of 0. This doesn't match what I saw from Trace Velo's video. The position for the small chainring showed correctly what I had set it to previously (12).
Other points of note:
- The app reports that I'm using model ES-R9001.
- The serial number on the rear derailleur starts with 250123.
- The battery holder uses coil springs rather than leaf springs to hold the batteries in place.
- I'm running the groupset as 2x11.
- I haven't ridden the bike in the rain or on wet roads, and I haven't washed the bike.
At this point I thought the rear derailleur was toast (which apparently was Trace Velo's problem in the end), but I decided to do a short solo ride anyway, with the front stuck in the small chainring. After riding for about 50 meters, I tried to change to the large chainring, and it shifted! Actually, it over-shifted, because I had lost my position settings when I "Reset to factory settings". So I stopped, put the chain back on, and tried to shift down. No response. The rear still shifted just fine. I then proceeded to try many of the steps listed above one more time, but no luck.
So I started riding again, and after another 50 meters of so, I could shift back to the small chainring. That was the last time the front derailleur shifted until I got back home, so put my rear derailleur position adjustments back as they were and did the ride in the small chainring. It was fairly hilly, so I could at least get up the hills!
After I got back home, the front still wouldn't shift. At that point, I wanted to check the connections on the battery end. So I pulled out the seatpost carefully, as I wanted to see what state the connections were. But as I pulled the seatpost slowly and carefully up and out, both derailleur cables came loose from the battery case connectors. I then plugged both of the cables into the battery holder, and immediate success! I could shift up or down without issue as before, and the front derailleur firmware now showed the correct version.
My main hypothesis is that I didn't plug the cables properly into the battery, and that the vibrations from being transported in a care shook them loose. Then when I started riding, the movement caused just enough of a connection to be established so I could shift.
Assuming that's the cause, does anyone have suggestions for how to better secure the cables at the battery end?
Another hypothesis is that the issue was caused by dodgy batteries in the battery holder. I don't have anything to support this hypothesis currently, apart from the fact that I'm using unbranded batteries from eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256250808223). They've been charging fine, and the reported charge hasn't dropped much with each ride. Regardless, I now have a branded set on order.
I'll also keep this bike for shorter trips for the time being, and be ready to pull out the seatpost should the problem reappear.
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My main hypothesis is that I didn't plug the cables properly into the battery, and that the vibrations from being transported in a care shook them loose. Then when I started riding, the movement caused just enough of a connection to be established so I could shift.
Assuming that's the cause, does anyone have suggestions for how to better secure the cables at the battery end?
Another hypothesis is that the issue was caused by dodgy batteries in the battery holder. I don't have anything to support this hypothesis currently, apart from the fact that I'm using unbranded batteries from eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256250808223). They've been charging fine, and the reported charge hasn't dropped much with each ride. Regardless, I now have a branded set on order.
I'd suggest either heat shrink plastic, hot glue or rubber cement. I actually didn't use any adhesive at the battery holder end for my ER9 build. I just made sure the cables were properly snug. I'm using bubble wrap packaging tied to a string to secure the battery holder inside my seat post. I just used the bubble wrap that came with the groupset. I'm wondering if this stuff makes for a better vibration insulator than using those fancy Di2 mounts? My cables on the FD/RD end are all rubber cemented in and I added coat of dielectric grease.
Anyways, I've transported my bike multiple times on a car bike rack and I regularly ride on rough surface roads. Also I'm using Ebay batteries as well with no problems.
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That was a very long message to say: have you tried unplugging it and plugging it again? :)
You could work in IT support now, you know enough to fix 90pc of people's problems!
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Today I finished up a ride and I was cleaning my ER9 bike when it fell on the drive side knocking the rear derailleur. It was enough of an impact to bend the derailleur hanger and threw off my RD fine-tuning adjustments. I had to realign the hanger and then redo my gear fine tuning. Luckily I was able to get everything back in working order.
I'm at about 13,600 shifts with the ER9. Issues I've encountered so far is jamming the chain into the cassette (dumping too many gears without pedaling) and dropping the bike on the RD (throwing off indexing). Both issues fixed. Batteries are still in working order and front/rear derailleurs shifting properly. Let's see how long my ER9 will last! ;D
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Update. On 18 May, the 3rd er9 RD died, and i contacted my reseller. 24 May, i contacted my reseller about my own er9 RD, because there are clear issues with recharging. Long story short, charging it, more often than not, results in the battery actually discharging. Go figure. I have a standalone lithium battery charger so i'm now using that until i get a replacement. I know a thing or 2 about lithium batteries, and i tried several different batteries (the actual Ltwoo battery compartment) as well as several different sets of lithium batteries, in various states of charge: the problem isn't coming the lithium batteries.
May 30th, still no resolution on either of them. my reseller makes it sound like ltwoo is being difficult this time around (for the previous 2, they were more straightforward).
The previous 2 broken ones (contacted my reseller on 17 Apr), i still havent received (it's not entirely ltwoo's fault, because they're in a box with a new wheel, so that took time too, but still, that box has been in transit for almost 20 days now, and i still have no idea where it is. So 1.5 months and still no replacement.
My friend whose RD died on May 18th had a triathlon the following weekend. He's back on his older sworks di2, at least the er9 died on a casual training ride and not on race day...
We're all loving Chinese groupsets in my cycling group, and the behaviour of ltwoo makes it extra tasty.
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I don't know what to say, my ER9 is still working great. I use the whole gear range as well sprinting flats, hill climbing and fast descending. I rotate my 3 bikes, so it gets used every third ride. No issues with battery drain and I top off my batteries all the time. I'm almost tempted to get another groupset for my other road bike.
Maybe I'm just lucky or I'm using the right combination of batteries and app settings to keep it from imploding on itself!
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I don't know what to say, my ER9 is still working great. I use the whole gear range as well sprinting flats, hill climbing and fast descending. I rotate my 3 bikes, so it gets used every third ride. No issues with battery drain and I top off my batteries all the time. I'm almost tempted to get another groupset for my other road bike.
Maybe I'm just lucky or I'm using the right combination of batteries and app settings to keep it from imploding on itself!
More likely a QC issue affecting a large number of products from the same batch, even if a QC issue by an electronics supplier to Ltwoo and not necessarily by Ltwoo, itself. Also could be a possible design issue that was either solved or weaseled its way in through later design changes. Iterating the design quickly within the same model and model year could lead to all sorts of issues being fixed or un-fixed without any way for us to easily tell.
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More likely a QC issue affecting a large number of products from the same batch, even if a QC issue by an electronics supplier to Ltwoo and not necessarily by Ltwoo, itself. Also could be a possible design issue that was either solved or weaseled its way in through later design changes. Iterating the design quickly within the same model and model year could lead to all sorts of issues being fixed or un-fixed without any way for us to easily tell.
That's the problem, you don't know if you'll get a good groupset or not. Plus LTwoo seems to have a s**ty response to any issues. Maybe stress testing the groupset is necessary to tell if you have a good sample. I can have my kid spin the pedal while I shift the RD 1000 times and shift the FD 100 times! That way if it breaks, I can still return it for a refund!
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Im at around 22.000 shifts. Another ride in torrential rain the other day. Still fine. Battery life is very good. I’m on my 4th charge IIRC.
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I don't know what to say, my ER9 is still working great.
Your sample size is 1. Mine is 5.
Beyond that and more importantly, a groupset is supposed to work, rather than break for no reason, so I am hoping that you're not the only user on the forum whose groupset is working!
I keep posting about the issues with mine so that it's visible to others who can then decide where they spend their money. I expected it would be beta, but that's a farce of a product, not a beta. I mean the failure rate is 100pc, as the 5th group is not being ridden atm. If they were on point with warranty and support, I wouldn't necessarily mind too much, but they're not.
Would be nice to have polls on the forum though, to know who's riding what.
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Have you tried using another charging source?
Some powerbanks will auto-cutoff moments after you connect and will result in the unit draining instead of charging. You need to find a steady USB power source or a powerbank that works.
This is not just a ltwoo issue, even my Magene powermeter reacts like this with some powerbanks.
Using a lithium charger for the 14500 definitely works but I have not encountered any issues charging through the RD once I get the right power source sorted out.
Ultimately always login via the app to check battery levels before riding out and you should not have any nasty surprises.
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Have you tried using another charging source?
Some powerbanks will auto-cutoff moments after you connect and will result in the unit draining instead of charging. You need to find a steady USB power source or a powerbank that works.
I posted about that before. originally i was trying to charge with a powerbank, but quickly realized it wasn't working. So yes, i've been using a wall socket with different high quality usb chargers and so on, i'm confident the issue is with the group / RD and not the juice. Also, i've handled 5 groups, i have 4 at home currently, so i know what works and doesn't, what should work but doesn't, and so on.
Ltwoo has asked if i have ridden in the rain, so presumably the charging issue has been linked to water exposure, which could explain why the new version has a USB C port in the FD. I'm speculating, because they're not exactly forthcoming w info, but it's the first time they ask a question.
For those with garmin devices, you can link the er9/erx w your head unit. tells you the level of charge of the battery, as well as which gear you're in, it's very neat.
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I use my ltwoo er9 with hammerhead karoo2 but the battery level doesn't seem accurate or granular enough, only displaying low/mid/high.
Only the ltwoo app gives the exact percentage.
However you still need to be careful, sometimes the value displayed might not be correct.
Only the value you see when you plug and unplug a charging source is the accurate one.
Incidentally try swabbing the charging contacts with a isopropyl swab before you charge. Dirt and grime might affect the charging. I hope the next version will have some proper covers for the charging port.
I have 2 sets of ER9, one used for about 6mths on my gravel bike and another that I got last month for a new build. Both are fine at the moment
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Your sample size is 1. Mine is 5.
Beyond that and more importantly, a groupset is supposed to work, rather than break for no reason, so I am hoping that you're not the only user on the forum whose groupset is working!
I keep posting about the issues with mine so that it's visible to others who can then decide where they spend their money. I expected it would be beta, but that's a farce of a product, not a beta. I mean the failure rate is 100pc, as the 5th group is not being ridden atm. If they were on point with warranty and support, I wouldn't necessarily mind too much, but they're not.
Would be nice to have polls on the forum though, to know who's riding what.
Hi Serge, this really sucks...sorry to hear that...
the problem with most of the chinese companies is, that the engineers usualy do not speak any english, they develop, that is it.
so if a problem occurs, you end up with someone who speaks english, but does not have any technical clue....therefore, they ask questions like, did you ride it in the rain, they may have a note in front of them, with questions they need to ask..they hardly understand the product...the salesperson usually do not have any interest in solving problems, as long as the sales are good...
My er9 was totally dead, nothing and they ask for a video...we have done several orders now, tries everything to help and at the end, they do not even trust us when filing a complaint......
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Any news when the L-TWOO eRX 'Blue' edition will hit the shelves
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ)
From youtube:
Fwiw, I've installed 5 er9 groups. All been flawless. Haven't ridden in the rain, people have had success with liquid electric tape around the RD plug to seal it. Everybody seems to have the new version with springs and not tabs in the battery. That was causing the group to die / go to sleep for no reason. The other problem for some is weather proofing, and this liquid tape thing seems to work. I don't think anybody has had problems beyond that. Bearing in mind that most people who install these groups are individuals who don't really know what they're doing, me included.
What's an 'RD' plug?
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What's an 'RD' plug?
Probably referring to the rear derailleur plug.
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Chirping in as someone who's had their ER9 since August.
done 4000+km, mostly dry riding with the occasional wet ride and it's given me no major issues.
I have shrink wrapped the RD plug and left the FD plug as is, regularly hose down the bike during the wash process and stood up to it just fine.
Only complaint so far is not being able to see the shifter battery level in the app.
I've had the right shifter battery go flat on me ~3000km? so had to change the RD shifting to the left shifter through the app, very handy.
Groupset is also fairly light with the Giant TCR in a M/L weighing in at 7.3kg without pedals. I'd say this groupset provides decent value during the aliexpress discount seasons.
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For some reason my hyperlink to a YouTube video showing up the new L-TWOO eRX 'Blue' edition update did not go through.
https://velo.outsideonline.com/road/road-gear/l-twoo-drivetrains-taipei-2024/ (https://velo.outsideonline.com/road/road-gear/l-twoo-drivetrains-taipei-2024/)
Also, why is LTWOO charging 100$ more for the option "with box". Is the version without box used in any way?
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For some reason my hyperlink to a YouTube video showing up the new L-TWOO eRX 'Blue' edition update did not go through.
https://velo.outsideonline.com/road/road-gear/l-twoo-drivetrains-taipei-2024/ (https://velo.outsideonline.com/road/road-gear/l-twoo-drivetrains-taipei-2024/)
Also, why is LTWOO charging 100$ more for the option "with box". Is the version without box used in any way?
Without box version is smaller, with all items bubble wrapped. I guess it's easier and cheaper for the vendors to ship it that way.
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Also, why is LTWOO charging 100$ more for the option "with box". Is the version without box used in any way?
The "box" version seems to have full-on, retail store levels of packaging: fancy box with sharp marketing print and photos, molded internal parts holders, nicer packaging all around, printed manuals and other marketing materials, etc. etc. The photos make it all look super nice. I think it's kind of cool that you have the option to not pay $100 for fancy printed cardboard and molded other cardboard I'm just going to throw away. It's kind of hard to believe that the "no box" option is that much cheaper, though, because the size of the box it came in and the amount of packing foam and little bubble-wrap-baggies was ridiculous. But, besides all the bubble wrap and packing foam, it was literally just a box of random parts in bags without any instructions or packing lists or anything. You still get all the parts and hardware, but no extras of any kind. I'm not sure if the "box" version comes with the brake bleed kit, but I think it might. I can tell you for sure that you do not get a bleed kit with the "no box" version.
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Afaik, the difference is shipping cost. Also to consider whether the mineral oil and lithium batteries are included or not in the box version. International shipping of liquids & lithium is a can of worms.
I got my er9 groups in retail boxes, without lithium and without oil. The boxes are useless and just created more trash.
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Chirping in as someone who's had their ER9 since August.
done 4000+km, mostly dry riding with the occasional wet ride and it's given me no major issues.
I have shrink wrapped the RD plug and left the FD plug as is, regularly hose down the bike during the wash process and stood up to it just fine.
Only complaint so far is not being able to see the shifter battery level in the app.
I've had the right shifter battery go flat on me ~3000km? so had to change the RD shifting to the left shifter through the app, very handy.
Groupset is also fairly light with the Giant TCR in a M/L weighing in at 7.3kg without pedals. I'd say this groupset provides decent value during the aliexpress discount seasons.
I'm going to give the heat shrink a try. I only clean my bike with a wet cloth and I don't ride in the rain. I carry spare CR2032 batteries in my saddle bag, plus a small screwdriver just in case my shifter batteries die out.
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Even though I used liquid tape on the RD initially. I removed it for an adjustment and haven't re-applied it since. Bike has been through several washes and wet rides and is ok.
I think the key thing is to just ensure the plug is securely fitted all the way.
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Even though I used liquid tape on the RD initially. I removed it for an adjustment and haven't re-applied it since. Bike has been through several washes and wet rides and is ok.
I think the key thing is to just ensure the plug is securely fitted all the way.
Yeah, I don't think you need to go nuts trying to waterproof the connection. If that were super important, I would think it would be designed differently. I used some dielectric grease for the connection and haven't done anything else. So far, so good.
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Without box version is smaller, with all items bubble wrapped. I guess it's easier and cheaper for the vendors to ship it that way.
Yes,
it is cheaper....and usually the prices are so low, that every buck counts for them...also, for europe, if they put it in a bag, it is more likely not being checked and 48 % antidumping tax applied.
But the main reason is just shippingcosts.
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How did you get this to work? I haven't been able to sort how to get my Karoo2 to connected with my l-twoo erx.
I use my ltwoo er9 with hammerhead karoo2 but the battery level doesn't seem accurate or granular enough, only displaying low/mid/high.
Only the ltwoo app gives the exact percentage.
However you still need to be careful, sometimes the value displayed might not be correct.
Only the value you see when you plug and unplug a charging source is the accurate one.
Incidentally try swabbing the charging contacts with a isopropyl swab before you charge. Dirt and grime might affect the charging. I hope the next version will have some proper covers for the charging port.
I have 2 sets of ER9, one used for about 6mths on my gravel bike and another that I got last month for a new build. Both are fine at the moment
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How did you get this to work? I haven't been able to sort how to get my Karoo2 to connected with my l-twoo erx.
Just add it to the list of sensors and then make sure you add the gear to one of your profiles. Its pretty straightforward.
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I carry spare CR2032 batteries in my saddle bag, plus a small screwdriver just in case my shifter batteries die out.
I carry a spare CR2032 and taped to it is a larger coin (Quarter) At least on my Wheeltop EDS levers, a coin works better to open the battery cover than a screwdriver.
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I carry a spare CR2032 and taped to it is a larger coin (Quarter) At least on my Wheeltop EDS levers, a coin works better to open the battery cover than a screwdriver.
LTwoo wireless shifters use tiny screws for the battery holder, so a tiny screwdriver is needed.
Luckily the screwdriver probably weighs only like 3 grams.
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How did you get this to work? I haven't been able to sort how to get my Karoo2 to connected with my l-twoo erx.
For my eGR, I connect it to my Stages M200 using ANT+ and it seems to think it is a Di2. It reports which gear I'm in and also battery condition (but not an actual percent, just a full/high/critical condition).
LTwoo wireless shifters use tiny screws for the battery holder, so a tiny screwdriver is needed.
Not sure how the eR9 is different from the eGR, but I found it very difficult to roll back the hood and open the battery door when I first installed them. I'm kind of dreading changing those batteries again, and in my head I've completely ruled out trying to do that on the side of the road. Maybe it will be easier now that the rubber is broken in, I'll find out probably in the next few months when I have to change them again. If it's just as bad, I'll just shift using my phone until I get home, lol (or, more likely, use the app to switch control to my other shifter).
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Not sure how the eR9 is different from the eGR, but I found it very difficult to roll back the hood and open the battery door when I first installed them. I'm kind of dreading changing those batteries again, and in my head I've completely ruled out trying to do that on the side of the road. Maybe it will be easier now that the rubber is broken in, I'll find out probably in the next few months when I have to change them again. If it's just as bad, I'll just shift using my phone until I get home, lol (or, more likely, use the app to switch control to my other shifter).
I changed a battery in the right shifter a few days ago. You only need access to the screw, then you can just pull the cover. You dont need the whole cover to be exposed is my point. Sliding the battery in and out was very easy (i used pliers to remove the old one, but i'm sure that i could have done it with my fingers as well). Then you slide the cover back in. No need to pull the hood cover very far.
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Are they rim wheels compatible?
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Are they rim wheels compatible?
The Ltwoo electronic groupsets are all disc brake compatible only. Rim braking is not possible with the Ltwoo electronic setups, unless maybe you use some kind of third-party hydraulic rim brake caliper. I don't know much about that, so maybe others can speak to whether that's really possible or not.
The Wheeltop brand of electronic groupsets has an option for a cable-pulled rim-brake setup.
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The other day my ER9 groupset stopped shifting mid-ride. Luckily I was in a useable gear to ride back home. At first I thought I was having issues with a loose/dirty connector, but for some reason every time I flipped the bike around, the groupset would go to sleep and wouldn't wake up until I plugged the charging cable into the RD. I double checked and cleaned all connectors, I then put everything back together, but still same issue. I even did a factory reset with the shifters and RD button. In addition I restored the default settings using the LTwoo app (I wrote down all my fine-tune settings). Still it would sleep when I flipped the bike upside down!
I then swapped the batteries out for a fresh pair and the sleep issue disappeared! The weird part is the batteries would work when the bike wasn't flipped. I'm not sure if it's the batteries or the battery holder that was causing the problem. I plan to order a higher quality set of batteries just in-case.
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Just add it to the list of sensors and then make sure you add the gear to one of your profiles. Its pretty straightforward.
For some reason my Karoo wasn't seeing it as a sensor! This was like 6 months ago, so I'll try again!
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I plan to order a higher quality set of batteries just in-case.
Absolutely. Can't stress enough the importance of good rechargeable batteries.
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For some reason my Karoo wasn't seeing it as a sensor! This was like 6 months ago, so I'll try again!
I have been using mine for about 5mths. I saw your post then and got worried, but when I installed it, it paired with no issues.
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Absolutely. Can't stress enough the importance of good rechargeable batteries.
It was weird. It would die if I flipped the bike around, but if I placed the charging cable on the RD, it'd wake up. Though after swapping the batteries out, the problem disappeared. I did 34km and 640m of climbing today and the issue disappeared.
I think besides weather proofing, the other areas of weakness are loose cables and batteries. I think if issues do arise with the ER9/ERX, I'd definitely go down the problem checklist to troubleshoot any problems that do occur.
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If anyone needs a replacement ER9 rear derailleur (or backup) 80 Design Store said they'd be willing to sell a replacement. Just message them.
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So I had an issue with the charging cable not charging properly. Plug it in, app shows it's charging but after a few hours battery percentage remained the same. I realized I needed to plug it in and the USB light on the usb plug side had to turn red to charge. Something was stuck inside the charging attachment part and I couldn't get it to charge properly. At least it works now, but only in certain angles.
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Hi guys my ER9 RD (s/n 250123x) also died after going through a very short patch of uneven pavement at ~ 25 mph a week ago. The same problem that it makes sound but is stuck at the smallest cog. I contacted both 80 designers store (the seller) and ltwoo. Heard nothing from ltwoo and 80 designers is dragging their feet with responding. Only one reply from 3 days ago so far and it was for asking me for a video. They've been ignoring me since.
I was just about to order one more set for another build and this happened. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and get the 105 DI2.
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I have been using mine for about 5mths. I saw your post then and got worried, but when I installed it, it paired with no issues.
Sure as shit, went in to add it and it showed immediately, thanks for nudging me to try again!
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Hi guys my ER9 RD (s/n 250123x) also died after going through a very short patch of uneven pavement at ~ 25 mph a week ago. The same problem that it makes sound but is stuck at the smallest cog. I contacted both 80 designers store (the seller) and ltwoo. Heard nothing from ltwoo and 80 designers is dragging their feet with responding. Only one reply from 3 days ago so far and it was for asking me for a video. They've been ignoring me since.
I was just about to order one more set for another build and this happened. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and get the 105 DI2.
Welcome to the club. Providing a video is step 1, that's only fair. What happened to you happened to me as well (bad asphalt downhill, dead er9 RD at the bottom of the descent), and another 2 er9 RD died for no reason (literally just riding in the dry, flat... just died. In all 3 instances, the RD goes into the smallest cog, doesn't shift up, and makes a "broken" noise, like the gearbox is broken or something. I've had 2 replaced, I re-installed them a few days ago. The 3rd one i'm still battling with Ltwoo via my reseller. The 4th group (I ordered 5 and installed 5 in total) after 4000+ km is causing serious problems with charging. I've asked that i receive 3 spares, with the assumption that given the odds, the 5th will die as well. It's been in limbo for several weeks now, ltwoo is basically ghosting my reseller, it seems.
From what you explain, you will get a replacement. You can even say you know that how your RD died is a known / common problem. Just email them every day and stay on top of them.
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For those that have your ER9 RDs die, have you tried replacing the batteries and rechecking all the cable connectors?
That's exactly what happened to mine over the weekend with a fast high speed bumpy descent and it completely died. FD even made weird sounds like a malfunctioning computer. I systematically restored the settings to default, re-synced both shifters and double checked all connectors. Even once it started working again, every time I flipped the bike over it would die again!
It was only after I swapped out the batteries, that it started working properly again. Because of that I have another set of batteries on order. It's also a good idea to write down your fine tune # adjustments, just in case you need restore everything to default.
Honestly I don't love electronic shifting that much to invest in Di2 or AXS. My other road bike is running Ultegra R8020 mechanical and it's bulletproof. My gravel bike is running a mix of GRX and Ultegra RX800 mechanical and that bike shifts like butter.
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In summary, in your opinion... Is it worth it?
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In summary, in your opinion... Is it worth it?
Depends. The ER9 is the cheapest gateway "drug" into Chinese electronic groupsets, just be ready to troubleshoot your own issues. Not to mention it's still a 1st gen product and LTwoo doesn't seem all that great as a company. Wheeltop actually seems more serious (like opening a US office) and Magene has a lot to gain creating full integration with an electronic groupset with their computers and power meters.
For all out reliability and affordable cost, I'd stick with mechanical. For simplifying a fully internal bike build, electronic will make your life easier. If you want the ability to try different cassette speeds, Chinese electronic groupsets are the only options that allow you to do that.
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In summary, in your opinion... Is it worth it?
That depends on a lot of things.
In my case, I went with the eGR, not eR9. I put it on my Poseidon gravel bike that came with Microshift Advent X. I really liked the frame, and once I got some of the fit pieces dialed in (bar, stem, and seat) and a decent pair of wheels, I was really very happy. People with these bikes sometimes swap to Microshift Sword parts for better looking brifters and more options for cassettes. But, you're still spending $160+ for brifters alone, and you're still stuck with mechanical brakes and a 10sp setup. The Advent X RD is not bad, but it does start to get less precise after a while and will need to be replaced sooner rather than later ($75+).
When the eGR went on sale for about $370 (I think is what I paid), I judged it to be worth a try. I get full hydraulic brakes, electronic shifting, better brifters with MUCH cleaner and easier routing, and I could slap it on my current 10sp setup and still have the option to easily transition to 11 or 12 speed in the near future. WORTH IT. About 500mi later and it's proven to have been a good buy. Brakes are excellent, routing is clean and nice looking, shifting is precise and fast (and still exactly as precise and fast at the 500mi mark as it was on the 1mi mark, which was not the case with Advent X), and I've had zero problems (so far). What's not to like? If it craps out on me and I can still claim a warranty and get a replacement RD, then I'll judge it still worth it. If I get to 1000mi or more and it craps out on me and I have to eat the cost of another RD, then I won't be super happy, but I won't be super upset, either. If it lasts me significantly more than 1000+ miles then it's all gravy, baby. Only time will tell from this point forward.
At 1.5x to 2x the cost of what I paid ($500 and up), my expectations would probably be different. What it's worth to you and what your expectations are for the price are yours to judge.
Wheeltop actually seems more serious (like opening a US office)...
Interesting. I didn't realize Wheeltop had targeted the US market. In fact, I thought they were specifically avoiding the US market and only selling in Europe and Asia.
I'm hopeful that Ltwoo will do okay. I noticed that Ltwoo is now providing OEM groupsets for all Walmart bikes. That's got to bring a pretty good influx of capital and a requirement for a certain base level of organization and supply chain management. Also, they've been more careful about avoiding patent infringements, whereas Wheeltop just decided to infringe on whatever they want and avoid the US market so as not to have to deal with that (at least, as far as I had previously heard).
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Interesting. I didn't realize Wheeltop had targeted the US market. In fact, I thought they were specifically avoiding the US market and only selling in Europe and Asia.
There was mention in the Wheeltop thread that they just opened some sort of distribution base or office location in Portland, OR. I'm not sure how Wheeltop is navigating around SRAM and Shimano patents. I even browsed some of SRAM's patents on battery attached electronic derailleurs and they even have interns filing patents! If anyone does something similar, they cry wolf and play victim of IP theft!
I work in another industry that has to deal with stupid lawsuits, so I really have no love for patent trolling.
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There was mention in the Wheeltop thread that they just opened some sort of distribution base or office location in Portland, OR. I'm not sure how Wheeltop is navigating around SRAM and Shimano patents. I even browsed some of SRAM's patents on battery attached electronic derailleurs and they even have interns filing patents! If anyone does something similar, they cry wolf and play victim of IP theft!
I work in another industry that has to deal with stupid lawsuits, so I really have no love for patent trolling.
The main patent that Wheeltop initially violated was the removable battery. Wheeltop is now selling derailleurs with a fixed battery. (That problem solved.) There were also concerns about SRAM's "wireless" patents, but this appears to be a non-issue. All the main companies have wireless patents of some sort. As I understand it, there are many ways of getting around the SRAM, Shimano and Campy patent's. In the world of Bluetooth and ANT, a lot of these communication protocols are open source. Nothing unique about adding a Bluetooth or ANT Transceiver to a mechanism and making the mechanism's function be wireless.
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Bad news, my batteries died again at the same exact location they died last time!
I now suspect it's the battery brand causing the issues. If you're in the US, I'd avoid the Skywolfeye 14500 Batteries found on Ebay. I've swapped them out for another Ebay battery set under the brand EBL. The description on this brand seems to indicate they are of higher quality and cost more. Though I'll have to see if they can hold charge without dying on me during long rides. At least this time around I didn't reset my settings and just did a simple battery swap to fix the issue.
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Bad news, my batteries died again at the same exact location they died last time!
I now suspect it's the battery brand causing the issues. If you're in the US, I'd avoid the Skywolfeye 14500 Batteries found on Ebay. I've swapped them out for another Ebay battery set under the brand EBL. The description on this brand seems to indicate they are of higher quality and cost more. Though I'll have to see if they can hold charge without dying on me during long rides. At least this time around I didn't reset my settings and just did a simple battery swap to fix the issue.
I have some EBL products in the form of NiMH rechargeable AA and AAA batteries and chargers. They're not bad, maybe not the best I've ever used but aat least I think they're legit enough to trust. I ended up going through a website that sells lithium brands for for the flashlight hobbyists. I figured they had a long established history with lots of good/bad reviews and pretty demanding use.
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L-Twoo spares listing here on AliExpress shows the 2nd gen ER9 shifters so hopefully a general release is not far away:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007123480001.html
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L-Twoo spares listing here on AliExpress shows the 2nd gen ER9 shifters so hopefully a general release is not far away:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007123480001.html
That's all 2nd gen ER9 equipment. The listing appears to have the new FD design.
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I replaced the unbranded blue batteries from eBay that I used at first with branded ones from DLG. Specifically the button-top variant from here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005871463985.html
So far, so good. I did a 35km ride today with lots of undulating hills, so loads of gear changes, both front and back. By the end of the ride, the battery capacity had dropped from 100% to 99%. The previous unbranded ones dropped more charge from shorter rides.
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I replaced the unbranded blue batteries from eBay that I used at first with branded ones from DLG. Specifically the button-top variant from here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005871463985.html
So far, so good. I did a 35km ride today with lots of undulating hills, so loads of gear changes, both front and back. By the end of the ride, the battery capacity had dropped from 100% to 99%. The previous unbranded ones dropped more charge from shorter rides.
What's weird is the failure happened at the same exact spot it failed last time. I didn't have problems with these batteries prior. I'm wondering if there's a possible glitch with the battery holder itself as well. I'm hoping it's just the batteries causing the problems. I do have a 2nd ER9 groupset I'm thinking of installing on my other road bike, but I've been hesitant mainly because Ultegra mechanical runs so well! Lol
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What's weird is the failure happened at the same exact spot it failed last time. I didn't have problems with these batteries prior. I'm wondering if there's a possible glitch with the battery holder itself as well. I'm hoping it's just the batteries causing the problems. I do have a 2nd ER9 groupset I'm thinking of installing on my other road bike, but I've been hesitant mainly because Ultegra mechanical runs so well! Lol
If your unit is old enough, that might be true. The first units had a sheetmetal spring tab that was apparently prone to either failure or simply not having enough stroke. It was eventually upgraded at some point to have a coil-type battery spring that was more robust and also had more compliance. You may wish to check which type you have.
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If your unit is old enough, that might be true. The first units had a sheetmetal spring tab that was apparently prone to either failure or simply not having enough stroke. It was eventually upgraded at some point to have a coil-type battery spring that was more robust and also had more compliance. You may wish to check which type you have.
I have the spring type. Maybe one of my cables have gone bad. Who knows. At least the AliEx LTwoo store has restocked spare parts. Anyways, I'll tough it out and see if these EBL batteries hold up. Going on a Father's Day ride to test them out!
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Hi all, I'm considering purchasing either the Erx or the Er9 from ltwoo for a new build, but there are few points on which I'd like to ask about your experience:
1) indexing of the gear: from what I can read on the forum and bits and pieces of information from Ltwoo on AliExpress (I could not find a comprehensive description of the groupset) the indexing is done via the partner app. Is there a way to use and index the group without the need to install any app?
Can you press a combination of buttons on the levers that will put the group into a "indexing mode" where you can go through each cogs and do micro adjustments just by clicking on the buttons and then memorizing that specific configuration or the app is the only way to go? (Opposite to what is possible with Shimano ).
My concern is that if in the near future the app becomes unusable (lack of support, new OS version of iOS or Android that do not supper and old app) I will be be left with an electronic for upset that I cannot index anymore
2) poor support from Ltwoo and availability of spare parts: I currently have two ltwoo groupset and I'm very happy with them (GRT and R9) but I recently broke the right shifters. When contacting Ltwoo official store or ltwoo factory store on Ali they are very very slow at replying and the only answer I got is that the R9 is out of production so they are unsure if they can sell me the single shifter and I should buy both (that apparently cost more than the full groupset). My concern is the following: mechanical groupset from ltwoo are fairly cheap, but if the same issue happen with the Erx or Er9 I wouldn't want to be payong an electronic groupset twice.
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Hi all, I'm considering purchasing either the Erx or the Er9 from ltwoo for a new build, but there are few points on which I'd like to ask about your experience:
1) indexing of the gear: from what I can read on the forum and bits and pieces of information from Ltwoo on AliExpress (I could not find a comprehensive description of the groupset) the indexing is done via the partner app. Is there a way to use and index the group without the need to install any app?
Can you press a combination of buttons on the levers that will put the group into a "indexing mode" where you can go through each cogs and do micro adjustments just by clicking on the buttons and then memorizing that specific configuration or the app is the only way to go? (Opposite to what is possible with Shimano ).
My concern is that if in the near future the app becomes unusable (lack of support, new OS version of iOS or Android that do not supper and old app) I will be be left with an electronic for upset that I cannot index anymore
2) poor support from Ltwoo and availability of spare parts: I currently have two ltwoo groupset and I'm very happy with them (GRT and R9) but I recently broke the right shifters. When contacting Ltwoo official store or ltwoo factory store on Ali they are very very slow at replying and the only answer I got is that the R9 is out of production so they are unsure if they can sell me the single shifter and I should buy both (that apparently cost more than the full groupset). My concern is the following: mechanical groupset from ltwoo are fairly cheap, but if the same issue happen with the Erx or Er9 I wouldn't want to be payong an electronic groupset twice.
i have noticed very few mechanicals defects on non electronic groupsets...but they are there...i have plenty of broken shifters after a years or so....then trouble starts: getting proper spares....we have given up on asking ltwoo for that..which ends up in big trouble for our customers, as they need to get the new part themselve somehow..there is no proper spare part infrastructure and communication..that is the major downside on this brand.....they like to sell, but they ignore any problems which occur and fail to help..they just do not care...even domestic sellers report that behaviour..
with electronic groupsets, its worse...because the groups are not as cheap to trash them...
So if you are willilng to have backup bikes or backup groupsets which help reducing downtimes and if you are willing to live with all the compromises....go for it..
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i have noticed very few mechanicals defects on non electronic groupsets...but they are there...i have plenty of broken shifters after a years or so....then trouble starts: getting proper spares....we have given up on asking ltwoo for that..which ends up in big trouble for our customers, as they need to get the new part themselve somehow..there is no proper spare part infrastructure and communication..that is the major downside on this brand.....they like to sell, but they ignore any problems which occur and fail to help..they just do not care...even domestic sellers report that behaviour..
with electronic groupsets, its worse...because the groups are not as cheap to trash them...
So if you are willilng to have backup bikes or backup groupsets which help reducing downtimes and if you are willing to live with all the compromises....go for it..
Thanks that answer question n2 - but I kinda knew it already about Ltwoo support
Does anyone that actually owns an erX or Er9 groupset have experience about the first question, i.e. indexing without the need of using the app but relying on physical buttons only?
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I honestly can not imagine why anyone in their right mind is still buying these groupsets now... The failure rate is so enormous and the aftersale service is so horrible...
The low price is just not worth getting stuck somewhere (and the question seems to be when and not if this will happen) without any chance of repairing the groupset on the road...
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Thanks that answer question n2 - but I kinda knew it already about Ltwoo support
Does anyone that actually owns an erX or Er9 groupset have experience about the first question, i.e. indexing without the need of using the app but relying on physical buttons only?
as far as my questions have been answered, app is mandatory.
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I honestly can not imagine why anyone in their right mind is still buying these groupsets now... The failure rate is so enormous and the aftersale service is so horrible...
The low price is just not worth getting stuck somewhere (and the question seems to be when and not if this will happen) without any chance of repairing the groupset on the road...
I expect it's because everyone likes to believe that it won't happen to them.
It's a shame because, when it's working, it seems like it's great. I'd love to try the EGR but the risk of being stranded in a remote area is way too high. I'd love to hear what L-Twoo have done to try and improve this in the second generation.
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I honestly can not imagine why anyone in their right mind is still buying these groupsets now... The failure rate is so enormous and the aftersale service is so horrible...
The low price is just not worth getting stuck somewhere (and the question seems to be when and not if this will happen) without any chance of repairing the groupset on the road...
I'd still buy the ER9/X over again even with the minor issues I've had. I've been able to figure out all my problems. Plus spare parts replacement for Di2/SRAM are still more expensive. If any major issues are going to occur, it'll be the RD. Protect the ports, get good batteries and make sure not to damage the cables. At least up to this point, ER9/X replacements parts are available and for reasonable prices.
Hi all, I'm considering purchasing either the Erx or the Er9 from ltwoo for a new build, but there are few points on which I'd like to ask about your experience:
1) indexing of the gear: from what I can read on the forum and bits and pieces of information from Ltwoo on AliExpress (I could not find a comprehensive description of the groupset) the indexing is done via the partner app. Is there a way to use and index the group without the need to install any app?
Can you press a combination of buttons on the levers that will put the group into a "indexing mode" where you can go through each cogs and do micro adjustments just by clicking on the buttons and then memorizing that specific configuration or the app is the only way to go? (Opposite to what is possible with Shimano ).
My concern is that if in the near future the app becomes unusable (lack of support, new OS version of iOS or Android that do not supper and old app) I will be be left with an electronic for upset that I cannot index anymore
If that's a concern, then I wouldn't even consider an electronic groupset. That's probably why most bike tourers stick to mechanical + steel frame bikes for ease of maintenance. It's not like 10 speed Di2 is still properly supported. Plus you could always put the Ltwoo app on an old device/ipad/tablet dedicated to tuning the groupset.
I have no particular bias with electronic vs mechanical. They both work. At this point either 105 or Ultegra mechanical are the best bang-for-buck groupsets available right now.
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Hi all, I'm considering purchasing either the Erx or the Er9 from ltwoo for a new build, but there are few points on which I'd like to ask about your experience:
1) indexing of the gear: from what I can read on the forum and bits and pieces of information from Ltwoo on AliExpress (I could not find a comprehensive description of the groupset) the indexing is done via the partner app. Is there a way to use and index the group without the need to install any app?
Can you press a combination of buttons on the levers that will put the group into a "indexing mode" where you can go through each cogs and do micro adjustments just by clicking on the buttons and then memorizing that specific configuration or the app is the only way to go? (Opposite to what is possible with Shimano ).
Ltwoo has a website with fairly good listing of documentation. You can find the manual for the eR9/eRX series, and it's actually a pretty good manual. It clearly states that you can do fine tuning of individual gears through button presses on the groupset and brifters. Please go check that out to see the procedure. However, I don't see anything about being able to switch from 12speed to 11 or 10speed via buttons, so I think that functionality may be only available through the app.
as far as my questions have been answered, app is mandatory.
How did you arrive at this answer? As far as I can see, the app is not mandatory (except to switch from 12 speed to some other speed cassette).
I'd still buy the ER9/X over again even with the minor issues I've had. I've been able to figure out all my problems. Plus spare parts replacement for Di2/SRAM are still more expensive. If any major issues are going to occur, it'll be the RD. Protect the ports, get good batteries and make sure not to damage the cables. At least up to this point, ER9/X replacements parts are available and for reasonable prices.
If that's a concern, then I wouldn't even consider an electronic groupset. That's probably why most bike tourers stick to mechanical + steel frame bikes for ease of maintenance. It's not like 10 speed Di2 is still properly supported. Plus you could always put the Ltwoo app on an old device/ipad/tablet dedicated to tuning the groupset.
I have no particular bias with electronic vs mechanical. They both work. At this point either 105 or Ultegra mechanical are the best bang-for-buck groupsets available right now.
Exactly my thoughts. Except it doesn't even appear to be necessary to worry about long term app functionality, as you may only *really* need it to re-purpose the groupset onto other bikes and maximize your use of it long term. If you simply install it on a bike and keep it on that bike, you probably won't need the app 10 years from now as long as you keep it on the same bike.
As far as matching functionality to Di2, not even Shimano lets you swap the number of gears or even let you microadjust through an app so it's already a false comparison. If Ltwoo goes out of business tomorrow and their app ceases to exist, then you'd still have an electronic derailleur with as much functionality as a Shimano Di2 derailleur, right?
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Every time I read the new posts in this thread, I am so happy I became a Wheeltop EDS OX and TX user. ;D
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Every time I read the new posts in this thread, I am so happy I became a Wheeltop EDS OX and TX user. ;D
Hey, but now we have the first report of Wheeltop TX PCB corrosion! ;D
I think all these electronic groupsets have certain compromises, even Di2 and AXS. It really just depends on what's acceptable for the end user. Though I'm still interested in what Wheeltop is doing. Hopefully prices will start to drop in coming months, especially once Magene comes out with their electronic groupset.
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Though I'm still interested in what Wheeltop is doing. Hopefully prices will start to drop in coming months, especially once Magene comes out with their electronic groupset.
Wheeltop seems interesting, I especially am interested by the cable-pull version for modding old bikes. But.... Those prices really need to drop. No way would I pay what they're asking for Chinese groupset. Only reason I'm using my Ltwoo set is because the price was worth giving it a go.
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Maybe I'm a lucky one, but I've had *zero* issues with my eRX gruppo from Sept/Oct last year. I've got a couple thousand miles on it and no issues at all.
Knocking on wood, I really love it and have the gravel set on my list for a gravel build soon.
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I'm building another bike with 105 di2 and will sell my ER9 bike. But so far no issues and racing with it every week. Also knocking on wood, posts here do frighten me.
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Ltwoo has a website with fairly good listing of documentation. You can find the manual for the eR9/eRX series, and it's actually a pretty good manual. It clearly states that you can do fine tuning of individual gears through button presses on the groupset and brifters. Please go check that out to see the procedure. However, I don't see anything about being able to switch from 12speed to 11 or 10speed via buttons, so I think that functionality may be only available through the app.
How did you arrive at this answer? As far as I can see, the app is not mandatory (except to switch from 12 speed to some other speed cassette).
Exactly my thoughts. Except it doesn't even appear to be necessary to worry about long term app functionality, as you may only *really* need it to re-purpose the groupset onto other bikes and maximize your use of it long term. If you simply install it on a bike and keep it on that bike, you probably won't need the app 10 years from now as long as you keep it on the same bike.
Well, i have asked which functions can be set via buttons and i did not receive an answer, yet...but it has only be 8 month...i think i will have to patient...lol
As far as matching functionality to Di2, not even Shimano lets you swap the number of gears or even let you microadjust through an app so it's already a false comparison. If Ltwoo goes out of business tomorrow and their app ceases to exist, then you'd still have an electronic derailleur with as much functionality as a Shimano Di2 derailleur, right?
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Roughly 3.500km and 24.000 shifts on my er9, here. Haven't touched anything ever since I sealed the cable plug on the RD. No issues with water ingress nor with cables coming loose. I'm riding the occasional cobbled road, which we got a lot of here.
Very little battery use, which is a pleasant surprise. I'm using branded higher quality batteries. Well, I like to believe that they're higher quality at least.
I will say that while it shifts fine, I'm not blown away by the shifting performance. It's okay for what it is, but my Campy 12sp mechanical is still in a different league in comparison. And the 11sp Ultegra that I rode on a rental bike was better as well. I consider myself fairly experienced in how to set up a groupset. I've been doing this for around 15 years. Maybe it's because I'm running an 11-34 cassette which is the extreme end of what the RD parallelogram arm/upper pulley can track well.
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Man, i wish you all the best and hope the group continous to perform...thats how it should be....!
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I ended up installing a spare ER9 groupset on my older SPCycle SP-027D frameset. Despite having a few quirks with my first ER9 bike, I think I've ironed out most potential issues. I was planning to save the groupset for a future bike build, but there's not much that interest me right now. Plus I think semi ICR bikes running electronic are as hassle-free as it gets when it comes to maintenance and travel (my headset is solid like a rock).
This bike was easy to convert to electronic compared to my ER9 TFSA frameset. There was ample space to route the cables and battery holder. Only issue I had was getting my shifters installed properly on new 38cm flared drop bars. LTwoo has the most convoluted shift clamp screw. I also swapped in a new set of EBL brand 2x14500 batteries. They seem to be working well on my other ER9 bike, compared to the Skywolfe batteries I was using previously (both purchased off US EBay).
One strange thing is the ER9 FD on this frame hasn't asked for a firmware update. This ER9 FD is running ver 0.0, while my other ER9 frame is on ver 1.2 I believe. Also I'm running 11 speed 52-36t/11-32t on this frame, while my other frame is running 12 speed 50-34t/11-34t. When set to 11 speed, the fine tuning values were way off. I found it really strange, though I was able to adjust it properly. I also have a chain catcher on order, I don't trust non-Shimano FDs to be chain-drop free.
Anyways, I'll report back once I get a few kilometric miles on the groupset. We'll see if my bike implodes with all the shifty AliEx components I'm running! ;D
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by way of update, the 3rd derailleur (er9) that died on May 18th, I'm yet to get ltwoo to provide a warranty replacement. it died like the others, for no reason.
someone suggested that - somewhat magically - resetting the whole thing with new batteries could fix the issue, it didn't on mine. I capacity tested all the lithium batteries i put in these groups, i'm pretty familiar with lithium things so i doubt there's something obvious that i missed in the battery department.
So it's now Jun 21st and my reseller is saying that ltwoo support is now full on ghosting him. He's now trying to speak with the sales rep. He says he's pissed off himself that the company is behaving like that. Now my reseller isn't reactive at all, i have to chase him 5x before he replies, but i do believe him when he's saying that he's being ghosted.
i've now put over 5000 km on mine, and other than charging problems, it's been flawless. my friend who broke his wheel weeks ago is now back on the bike, so he's ticking miles on the 5th RD, so far with no problem other than calibration to avoid chain drops.
I've installed 2 replacements and these have been working fine, but that's on under 500km together.
the worst thing in all this is the behaviour of ltwoo. a beta product with a ghosting manufacturer is just bad news.
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hi folks, I'm a relatively new to building a bike myself, and in the process of doing so I've ordered the LTWOO eGR. Additionally I've ordered a cassette 12 speed 10-44, but the LTWOO eGR states that the supported gear range is 11 to 46, so I'm wondering if this will work?
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I've installed 2 replacements and these have been working fine, but that's on under 500km together.
the worst thing in all this is the behaviour of ltwoo. a beta product with a ghosting manufacturer is just bad news.
Since you have access to other ER9 groupsets, have you tried other cables and battery holders to narrow down the issue to the RD being completely dead?
At this point why not just order a spare ER9 RD? With the coupon deals right now, it'll probably be under $130 USD. Time is money, I'd rather be back on the bike.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806937165249.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806937165249.html)
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806937165249.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806937165249.html)
wow, finally the "official" LTWOO store ships to Germany so we can benefit from the lower prices too.
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It's definitely not a problem with cables.
We indeed just bought one on AliExpress, came to cost 145 EUR, not quite 130 USD, but still a good backup to have.
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wow, finally the "official" LTWOO store ships to Germany so we can benefit from the lower prices too.
Well, we have matched all the aliexpress prices on the ltwoo products and are directly in Germany..
Now, as we have dropped the brand they seem to sell directly..
It also helps not getting in trouble, as the electronic products may get inspected by patent lawers soon?
Who knows...
But at the end it does not make to product more reliable and if they really start selling via aliexpress directly as the manufacturer they do destroy loads of possibilities for the future, as the market does not forget this behaviour...
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Well, we have matched all the aliexpress prices on the ltwoo products and are directly in Germany..
Now, as we have dropped the brand they seem to sell directly..
It also helps not getting in trouble, as the electronic products may get inspected by patent lawers soon?
Who knows...
But at the end it does not make to product more reliable and if they really start selling via aliexpress directly as the manufacturer they do destroy loads of possibilities for the future, as the market does not forget this behaviour...
so you matched the prices but as you dropped LTWOO from your website no one can find this nice deals online?
or am i just too blind to find them?
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I just want to report some oddities between my 2 separate ER9 setups. Each groupset was purchased from different vendors on AliEx. My 1st ER9 is running FW 1.1 on the RD and FW 1.2 on the FD. My 2nd ER9 is running FW 1.1 on the RD and FW 0.0 on the FD. I'm not sure why the FW between the two groupsets would be different, perhaps there are some internal hardware differences? Also for some strange reason, the 2nd ER9 groupset doesn't seem to show any battery drain. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the batteries or the RD isn't transmitting charge data? Also I was initially covering the power connection port on both ER9 RDs with electrical tape (as a means of weather protection). Though on the 2nd ER9 groupset, doing so interfered with the bluetooth connection to the shifters. The moment I removed the tape, the shifters were able to reconnect.
I'll update any other issues that arise!
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so you matched the prices but as you dropped LTWOO from your website no one can find this nice deals online?
or am i just too blind to find them?
Well, we have discontinued the product ER9 and other electonic Groupsets due to bad quality, missing customer service and missing legal certificates for the electronic parts!
we only stock grt systems which are also on sale.
I just mentioned the fact, that we sold them for good prices and aliexpress is not the holy grail :-)
we still have two er9 which do not show online, and these are genuine and untouched and come in original boxes...if you are really intersted, make an offer/contact us via email...
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I want to buy new brake pads for the er9. Considering experimenting with different compounds.
What are the pads that are compatible with the L-TWOO calipers? I doubt the fins matter.
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I want to buy new brake pads for the er9. Considering experimenting with different compounds.
What are the pads that are compatible with the L-TWOO calipers? I doubt the fins matter.
These work well. I use them on my GRX gravel bike with no issues on off-road downhill. They're a resin/ceramic mix. I think they brake better than the stock LTwoo eggroll pads.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804993304535.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804993304535.html)
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I want to buy new brake pads for the er9. Considering experimenting with different compounds.
What are the pads that are compatible with the L-TWOO calipers? I doubt the fins matter.
i got a pair of these https://aliexpress.com/item/1005002611865379.html (944-RS805-Elite). Breaking performence is good but i had to sand down the paint at the side of the pads around half a mm because they were to wide, at least in my calipers.
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Hi guys my ER9 RD (s/n 250123x) also died after going through a very short patch of uneven pavement at ~ 25 mph a week ago. The same problem that it makes sound but is stuck at the smallest cog. I contacted both 80 designers store (the seller) and ltwoo. Heard nothing from ltwoo and 80 designers is dragging their feet with responding. Only one reply from 3 days ago so far and it was for asking me for a video. They've been ignoring me since.
I was just about to order one more set for another build and this happened. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and get the 105 DI2.
I'm here to report back on the issue. I never heard back directly from Ltwoo sadly. On the other hand 80 designers on Ali, albeit incredibly slow, finally sent out the replacement RD today (6/25) after 3 weeks of back and forth and two separate videos showing the RD is indeed broken. On top of that I have to pay for shipping (USD $15+tax, which should not be taxed by law but anyway).
I have to say I enjoyed the group set, when it was working. Maybe the downshifting in the rear isn't as crispy but it still worked very well (and maybe because I have a 11-34 there). And the weight and price point are incredible comparing to 105 di2. However this whole ordeal left a very sour taste. First of all, how on earth would the RD break itself simply by going through an uneven patch of pavement less than 10-12 ft long? There's something very wrong about the engineering/material here. And then there is the customer service, or lack thereof. Ltwoo never directly responded to my email. And I really don't understand why it took them a whole 20 days since they first received the video to agree and send out a replacement. Ltwoo should be ashamed of themselves for doing business this way.
i really was going to order another set for my other bike's upgrade right before this happened. But I'm holding out now until I see how Wheeltop/Magene handle their QA/QC and customer service, though to be honest I don't have high hope there either. Or maybe this is the universe telling me to stop effing around and just stick to the mechanical 105 for now.
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I'm here to report back on the issue. I never heard back directly from Ltwoo sadly. On the other hand 80 designers on Ali, albeit incredibly slow, finally sent out the replacement RD today (6/25) after 3 weeks of back and forth and two separate videos showing the RD is indeed broken. On top of that I have to pay for shipping (USD $15+tax, which should not be taxed by law but anyway).
I have to say I enjoyed the group set, when it was working. Maybe the downshifting in the rear isn't as crispy but it still worked very well (and maybe because I have a 11-34 there). And the weight and price point are incredible comparing to 105 di2. However this whole ordeal left a very sour taste. First of all, how on earth would the RD break itself simply by going through an uneven patch of pavement less than 10-12 ft long? There's something very wrong about the engineering/material here. And then there is the customer service, or lack thereof. Ltwoo never directly responded to my email. And I really don't understand why it took them a whole 20 days since they first received the video to agree and send out a replacement. Ltwoo should be ashamed of themselves for doing business this way.
i really was going to order another set for my other bike's upgrade right before this happened. But I'm holding out now until I see how Wheeltop/Magene handle their QA/QC and customer service, though to be honest I don't have high hope there either. Or maybe this is the universe telling me to stop effing around and just stick to the mechanical 105 for now.
Man, i am sorry to hear this...i was hoping ltwoo will change....the problem is, that their factory is massivly overloaded with domestic orders, lower quality groupsets, as chinese bikecyclemarket is increasing in the lower budget range...so they do not see any need to change their behviour with the relatively small market they have with electronic groupsets....the aliexpress guys have to loose a little more, thats why they invest hard work to help customers....but are helpless because ltwoo ignores them too..at the end, they will cover the parts on their costs, but it is a loss for them,surely...i have still questions pending with ltwoo factory, my sales person keeps asking me, what is the problem, i keep telling him, just read the messages above..and he ignores me again? i have seen many chinese companies in the past 25 years i do business with china, this is one of the worst, sorry to say......
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Howdy all,
I'm new to Chinertown and new to ordering from AliExpress/Alibaba in general.
I'm building up a frameset and think I'd like to use ER9/X but unsure of which sellers/distributors to buy from? Any recommendations?
I'm also struggling to match the prices others have shown on this thread for the parts. Any tips on getting good value?
And one other final question. If I buy the set without cassette/chainrings/rotors can I use pretty much any alternative brand? Is this the way to go to save some weight or am I best just buying the whole lot with the ER9.
Thanks for the help for this rookie!
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Howdy all,
I'm new to Chinertown and new to ordering from AliExpress/Alibaba in general.
I'm building up a frameset and think I'd like to use ER9/X but unsure of which sellers/distributors to buy from? Any recommendations?
I'm also struggling to match the prices others have shown on this thread for the parts. Any tips on getting good value?
And one other final question. If I buy the set without cassette/chainrings/rotors can I use pretty much any alternative brand? Is this the way to go to save some weight or am I best just buying the whole lot with the ER9.
Thanks for the help for this rookie!
You did see all the previous issues people have with this groupset? Are you really sure you wanna gamble on it? Especially, given you are new to ordering from China/AliExpress.
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You did see all the previous issues people have with this groupset? Are you really sure you wanna gamble on it? Especially, given you are new to ordering from China/AliExpress.
Yup, I've given the whole thread a read.
If I can find a good deal and some knowledgeable folk offer some good advice to queries, it'll worth my effort to try it.
If not, I might stick to the mainstream.
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Yup, I've given the whole thread a read.
If I can find a good deal and some knowledgeable folk offer some good advice to queries, it'll worth my effort to try it.
If not, I might stick to the mainstream.
You're a brave man, i applaud that.
on price matching, the lower prices are usually because people buy during a "sale" on aliX. Also depends on the region you're in. For example, if in EU, you see prices incl. VAT. Not the case in the UK. Shipping depends on region too. Those who live in Australia pay less in shipping. Long story short, it's complicated. There's a guy selling er9 on the forum btw, his user name is very long and has plates in it i think.
everything kind of works with everything. er9 doesnt sell rotors, cranks, cassette, chain, anyway. i have an ultralight steel & alu cassette, chinese, i m very happy with it, but you ll find people here saying it's shit. as long as it's calibrated properly, it works great, on my setup anyway.
there's a number of youtubers saying that expensive rotors dont brake any better than cheaper ones, so you may want to save your money there. It also depends on the riding you do, and your weight.
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Howdy all,
I'm new to Chinertown and new to ordering from AliExpress/Alibaba in general.
I'm building up a frameset and think I'd like to use ER9/X but unsure of which sellers/distributors to buy from? Any recommendations?
I'm also struggling to match the prices others have shown on this thread for the parts. Any tips on getting good value?
And one other final question. If I buy the set without cassette/chainrings/rotors can I use pretty much any alternative brand? Is this the way to go to save some weight or am I best just buying the whole lot with the ER9.
Thanks for the help for this rookie!
Ha you're brave! Even though I'm running 2 ER9 groupsets, they are way to finicky that I wouldn't recommend them to anyone who isn't able to troubleshoot their own issues. First none of the AliEx stores are official, even if they have "official" in their name. So far the best prices for ER9/X groupsets come from the 80 Design Store or the LTwoo "Offical" Store . They were selling them cheaper on the AliEx LTwoo Choice store, but that stock dried up. Also wait to buy during sales. The next big one should be the AliEx summer sale. Though they've been running sales every 1st of the month with coupon deals if you miss that one.
You can run any cassette/chain/crank/rotor combo. You can even run different brake calipers if you want. Also you can save weight using a lightweight cassette, carbon crankset, lightweight 160/140 rotor combo and even swap out the brake calipers.
If you're new to AliEx bike building, I'd highly recommend using Shimano drivetrain components, because they should work with the least amount of hassle. I'd only start experimenting with the lightweight fringe components after you've become more comfortable. There's a lot of great stuff on AliEx, but there's also a lot of junk. For example if you start with 105 or Ultegra cassette/chain/crank components, You'll at least have some guarantee everything will work properly. Good luck!
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Howdy all,
I'm new to Chinertown and new to ordering from AliExpress/Alibaba in general.
I'm building up a frameset and think I'd like to use ER9/X but unsure of which sellers/distributors to buy from? Any recommendations?
Diving into the deep end of the pool. Respect.
Like others, I'd recommend shimano parts for your first foray. Anrancee and Delic-bike store have legit shimano groups available.
Or you could get a full group at a decent price from merlincycles.
I bought a Ltwoo gravel group from 80 Designer store and they replaced a bad shifter after I provided video evidence that it wasn't working properly. They seemed to have the best prices at the time.
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You're a brave man, i applaud that.
on price matching, the lower prices are usually because people buy during a "sale" on aliX. Also depends on the region you're in. For example, if in EU, you see prices incl. VAT. Not the case in the UK. Shipping depends on region too. Those who live in Australia pay less in shipping. Long story short, it's complicated. There's a guy selling er9 on the forum btw, his user name is very long and has plates in it i think.
everything kind of works with everything. er9 doesnt sell rotors, cranks, cassette, chain, anyway. i have an ultralight steel & alu cassette, chinese, i m very happy with it, but you ll find people here saying it's shit. as long as it's calibrated properly, it works great, on my setup anyway.
there's a number of youtubers saying that expensive rotors dont brake any better than cheaper ones, so you may want to save your money there. It also depends on the riding you do, and your weight.
yes thats me...i have still one set on stock, oem, with box, not touched..
happy to receive offers for it or it will end up on my new zwiftsetup :-)
this will be a private sale...for the brave...
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Apart from two Shimano sellers listed above another one, the cheapest and often the fastest - Newbie bike store. Have bought numerous Shimano goodies from them. They are the only ones where you can buy entire Shimano R7100 12s mechanical groupset for around $375 and 105 Di2 for $750 during the monthly sales/coupons.
If you still want to go ahead with LTwoo ER9, (apparently official) LTwoo store has the cheapest prices. Last time I utilized my coupon, I got it for $365 tax included, shipped to my doorstep.
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Lots of negativity in here lately but mostly rooted in a couple of folks talking about a couple of instances - that's not to discount those, but I would *highly* encourage you to try new stuff if you have the patience. I've not had a single issue with my eRX, and there a ton of folks that share the same. As is often the case, the bad experiences are what you hear about. So, if you're on the fence, then, yes avoid it. But for lots of folks, wireless shifting isn't an experience they can afford from the major players so having access to this sort of technology with the appetite to figure it out, try it and play with it, is pretty cool.
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My personal verdict is that while my er9 works, I think the only big advantage it gives is that it makes bikes with integrated cables super easy to build. The performance in my eyes isn’t really much better than a good mechanical groupset. There’s obvious reliability issues which make me worry if I should take the bike on a holiday or to a race. I took a gamble when buying it and chose to take the risk. But looking back, I’m not sure I’d do it again. I’d like to ride the latest 105 Di2 or Sram Rival electronic to see how they compare.
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Lots of negativity in here lately but mostly rooted in a couple of folks talking about a couple of instances - that's not to discount those, but I would *highly* encourage you to try new stuff if you have the patience. I've not had a single issue with my eRX, and there a ton of folks that share the same. As is often the case, the bad experiences are what you hear about. So, if you're on the fence, then, yes avoid it. But for lots of folks, wireless shifting isn't an experience they can afford from the major players so having access to this sort of technology with the appetite to figure it out, try it and play with it, is pretty cool.
I don't understand how you can defend this groupset like that. It's crap and A LOT of the people here that have bought it have problems with them. It's not an isolated incident like you make it out to be.
3 (or is it 4 by now) out of 5 groupsets that become defective is not a coincidence. It's a bad product and should not have come to market like this. That combined with the terrible support of Ltwoo should be a warning to not buy this stuff.
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I don't understand how you can defend this groupset like that. It's crap and A LOT of the people here that have bought it have problems with them. It's not an isolated incident like you make it out to be.
3 (or is it 4 by now) out of 5 groupsets that become defective is not a coincidence. It's a bad product and should not have come to market like this. That combined with the terrible support of Ltwoo should be a warning to not buy this stuff.
Yep, that's me. Writing " a couple of folks talking about a couple of instances" is a gross misrepresentation. Also known as horse shit. It's far, far more than that.
Now as a contrarian, I will keep trying to ride these er9 into the ground because I want competition in the space. What Shimano and SRAM charge for their groups simply is intellectually insulting when you start to understand unit economics. And I have zero respect for patent trolling.
But users be warned: these er9 are not to be used by those who don't want to tinker.
Anaerobic session coming up, uphill, on my er9 :)
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Yep, that's me. Writing " a couple of folks talking about a couple of instances" is a gross misrepresentation. Also known as horse shit. It's far, far more than that.
Now as a contrarian, I will keep trying to ride these er9 into the ground because I want competition in the space. What Shimano and SRAM charge for their groups simply is intellectually insulting when you start to understand unit economics. And I have zero respect for patent trolling.
But users be warned: these er9 are not to be used by those who don't want to tinker.
Anaerobic session coming up, uphill, on my er9 :)
Well, this is the reason why we started to work with ltwoo, we saw a chance to cut off a pieces of shimano and sram...we, as a listed dealership, buy shimano and sram parts at a higher pricepoint than normal customer do at onlineshops.
As we spoke with ltwoo, explained the european market and what is needed to sell legally and what needs to be done quality wise and that customer service is essential IF the product fails...
Well, all this was promised....
we also pointed out, why a legal seller who copes with local tax and duties and far most important, getting customer service handled, if aliexpress comes into play. business is done for any normal distributor or seller..
due to the missing certificates, licenses it is illegal to sell this groupsets as they come, we would have had to invest loads of money to make the product legal (not legal concorning patents), ce certificate, ANt+, bluetooth....all this is not existant for aliexpress sellers, they just sell and do not have to fear shimano lawers.
Due to the quality issues, quantities stuck...we did not want to order the faulty groupsets anymore until new reliable versions are available...ltwoo just went to easy path and jumped onto aliexpress...boom...all the faulty groupsets found customers..
Even the known quality issues are not handled fast and easy, which would be necessary to get back minimum trust in the brand...they want to see videos, pictures its the old chinese we make it as hard as possible story....
I understand people are on a budget, if they are, it is essential to make an invest in reliable products , so a good di2 105 may is more expensive, but at the end, cheaper because no down time, no hassle ...
hope your anaerobic season was nice....i just had a swim this morning and will have aerobic run this evening!
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I am actually not so sure that this groupset is that much cheaper... Looking into high level numbers:
Ltwoo FD, RD, Shifters, batteries etc = 450€
Shimano 105 di2 full groupset which includes Cassette etc = 1000€
If on Shimano we remove the VAT (175€) + crank (135€) cassette (50€), chain (20€), disc rotors (50€) how much cheaper is it actually?? difference is around 100€.
Is it really that worth it to lose warranty etc etc. This is the reason why I don't think a lot of work has to be done by them. Wheeltop needs to lower their and Megane and Sensah need to step in with the same idea.
For me I prefer my solid 105 7020 than any of these.
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When I put together my build, I got er9 for 460 EUR and combined it with a used crankset and a lightweight Aliexpress cassette & chain. 105 Di2 actually gets more expensive when you buy individual parts and not a full groupset. But I simply didn't need a complete groupset as I had various parts lying around. The cheapest offerings to put together a 105 Di2 mini groupset was something like 650-700 EUR IIRC. To me at the time, that was enough to go the cheaper route. Knowing what I know today, I'd probably get a Sram Mini gruppo which sometimes can be had for around 650ish EUR and be done with cables entirely. My wheels don't have an XD freehub but Sram should work just fine with regular cassettes/chains and chainrings as well. No definite need for flattop chains and 10tooth cog cassettes, I think.
Wheeltop seems interesting as well but I don't see the point when it's basically (almost) as expensive as Western brands.
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Wheeltop seems interesting as well but I don't see the point when it's basically (almost) as expensive as Western brands.
Considering weight, the Wheeltop EDS TX competes with the SRAM Force AXS level components. The Force upgrade kit typically costs between $1100 and $1300 USD, but you might find it for around $1000 USD during a sale. On the other hand, the Wheeltop can be found on AliExpress for $630 USD without any sales involved. And with this price difference, Wheeltop looks like an interesting option. But if the weight difference and lack of customization don't bother you, and you need good customer support, Sram Rival is a great choice.
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But if the weight difference and lack of customization don't bother you, and you need good customer support, Sram Rival is a great choice.
Most of the weight savings usually lie in the cassette and cranks, which is why I usually go lightweight there and go budget with the rest.
While there don't seem to be huge issues with Wheeltop, I do not consider this a safe bet either. Comparing Aliexpress with reputable shops with reliable warranty service isn't fair either, IMO. If I went Aliexpress and Wheeltop, I could just as well buy 2nd hand Sram components and pay with PayPal insurance. That's more of a fair comparison, I think.
But for the time being, I'll just ride my er9 and see what happens :)
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How much difference that weight actually makes honestly speaking? I fell it's a MegaPixels war in the bike industry.
Rim brakes are lighter xD
Anyway it's a discussion which will lead nowhere :) Up for each one to decide how weight can affect them
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You'll remember the pain of a failed electronic groupset long after you've forgotten the extra 100g that Shimano 105 Di2 / SRAM Rival AXS weighs.
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How much difference that weight actually makes honestly speaking? I fell it's a MegaPixels war in the bike industry.
Rim brakes are lighter xD
Anyway it's a discussion which will lead nowhere :) Up for each one to decide how weight can affect them
On a upgrade kit (derailleurs, shifters and brake calipers) scale weight almost doesn't make any difference for the average user. But weight is almost the only thing that differentiates groupsets. So i think it's correct to compare wheeltop to Force, rather than Rival.
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I am actually not so sure that this groupset is that much cheaper... Looking into high level numbers:
Ltwoo FD, RD, Shifters, batteries etc = 450€
Shimano 105 di2 full groupset which includes Cassette etc = 1000€
If on Shimano we remove the VAT (175€) + crank (135€) cassette (50€), chain (20€), disc rotors (50€) how much cheaper is it actually?? difference is around 100€.
Is it really that worth it to lose warranty etc etc. This is the reason why I don't think a lot of work has to be done by them. Wheeltop needs to lower their and Megane and Sensah need to step in with the same idea.
For me I prefer my solid 105 7020 than any of these.
You can get the er9 for less. You can get a crankset for much less. At this price you're in Chinese carbon crankset territory, which is hundreds of grams lighter than Shimano. A 50 euro cassette is an ultra light which is dura ace level weight. You can get 2 rotors for 10 bucks, that's what I use, as approved by peak torque. AliExpress in Europe includes VAT. Also worth noting that it can be tough to get the exact spec you want from Shimano, across crank arms, chainrings and cassette sizes.
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You can get the er9 for less. You can get a crankset for much less. At this price you're in Chinese carbon crankset territory, which is hundreds of grams lighter than Shimano. A 50 euro cassette is an ultra light which is dura ace level weight. You can get 2 rotors for 10 bucks, that's what I use, as approved by peak torque. AliExpress in Europe includes VAT. Also worth noting that it can be tough to get the exact spec you want from Shimano, across crank arms, chainrings and cassette sizes.
Well you can also get 105 di2 under 1000eur. I just made a high level comparison.
It's worth what is worth and each person is free to take their own decisions. And it's good that it's like that... Else if we all liked yellow what would be of blue.
Ali doesn't include vat above 150euro so if you get the er9 you don't pay vat (unless you get them under 150 euro on ali, and for that I would also try it ahah). As for the weight approach it's an argument maybe for some people.
I actually think the biggest value of these Chinese electronic groupsets is on the flexibility of adapting it to current system being it 10, 11, 12 speed or other.
I prefer an iPhone to a Xiaomi top specs. Even if the iPhone is 14 and the xiaomi was launched yesterday.
Anyway happy to hear reports and to follow the topic.
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When I put together my build, I got er9 for 460 EUR and combined it with a used crankset and a lightweight Aliexpress cassette & chain. 105 Di2 actually gets more expensive when you buy individual parts and not a full groupset. But I simply didn't need a complete groupset as I had various parts lying around. The cheapest offerings to put together a 105 Di2 mini groupset was something like 650-700 EUR IIRC. To me at the time, that was enough to go the cheaper route. Knowing what I know today, I'd probably get a Sram Mini gruppo which sometimes can be had for around 650ish EUR and be done with cables entirely. My wheels don't have an XD freehub but Sram should work just fine with regular cassettes/chains and chainrings as well. No definite need for flattop chains and 10tooth cog cassettes, I think.
Wheeltop seems interesting as well but I don't see the point when it's basically (almost) as expensive as Western brands.
well, it will only effect the market if the prices of the chinese go down for us, or if they are able to get any well known brands oem them stuff for them in their entry levels...this would immediately hurt the big ones and they would lower their surely healthy margins.
But currently i do not see any of the chinese in this position. Maybe ltwoo will take a big step and do all the legal work, liczens etc but they still have the problem with their flatmount solution....so oem would probably need to buy it without the brakes ( i have asked for a smaller gravel project , but ltwoo told me, only with brrakes) But oems have been watching the whole story and are disappointed as we are..
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The cassette speed flexibility is a big thing going for the LTwoo and Wheeltop Chinese groupsets. I really wanted to go with an 11-34t cassette on my climbing bike, but I didn't like the cog spacing of the 11 speed version and the Shimano 12 speed 11-34t cassette are quite heavy. I went with the ER9 and a Goldix 12 speed 11-34t lightweight cassette which is sub 280g. Plus the small cog spacing is similar to the 11 speed 11-32t cassette. I also swapped out my LTwoo brake calipers and went with the ZRace XG brakes which come in at about 95g a piece. I am curious if Wheeltop licensed the flat top caliper design?
I don't recommend the ER9/X for those unable to troubleshoot their own problems. I am running 2 ER9 groupsets currently, but I'm fairly methodical about my bike building and troubleshooting. If any issues are going to arise, it's all based on the RD from my experience which is basically the brains of entire system. The shifters, FD, cables and battery holder (w/springs) are all fairly solid. Also I haven't heard as many issues from the EGR, so perhaps the next iteration of the ERX/9 will have a bit more reliability. It looks like you can get the updated ER9 components individually from the LTwoo "official" store.
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Also I haven't heard as many issues from the EGR, so perhaps the next iteration of the ERX/9 will have a bit more reliability. It looks like you can get the updated ER9 components individually from the LTwoo "official" store.
The eGR thread has been dead quiet. Maybe they haven't sold as many units? I have an eGR and so far it's been great. Though, I don't use it frequently for actual gravel riding, so I have no real commentary on durability other than I'm about 2months and 500 miles in on it with pretty rough roads and it's been flawless with exceptionally low battery drain. Survived at least one 40 mi ride in the rain, at least.
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Interesting about the arguments pro ER9 or ERX
Basically these electronics are all almost new and a lot of them failed. That's not even about reliability (which is about aging).. this is a design flaw. Those who are lucky and have a functional system, should not blame all the failed parts. There's definitely something wrong.
The root cause may be to high tolerances in the parts for the water ingress for example. But there seems to be different failures.
Would you buy a car like that?. ;D don't think so..
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The eGR thread has been dead quiet. Maybe they haven't sold as many units? I have an eGR and so far it's been great. Though, I don't use it frequently for actual gravel riding, so I have no real commentary on durability other than I'm about 2months and 500 miles in on it with pretty rough roads and it's been flawless with exceptionally low battery drain. Survived at least one 40 mi ride in the rain, at least.
I'm curious about this group as well. I guess no news is good news?
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well the egr looks basically like the new erx design with a clutch and no fd so I'd assume it'd be a bit more trustworthy
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Has anyone tried pairing an EGR RD with an ERX/9 setup? I wonder if it's possible to combine the two setups or has LTwoo software locked the groupsets?
If the EGR has improved weather sealing and more reliable hardware, I'd love to run a 2x gravel setup. I'm not fond of 1x gravel.
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I don't understand how you can defend this groupset like that. It's crap and A LOT of the people here that have bought it have problems with them. It's not an isolated incident like you make it out to be.
3 (or is it 4 by now) out of 5 groupsets that become defective is not a coincidence. It's a bad product and should not have come to market like this. That combined with the terrible support of Ltwoo should be a warning to not buy this stuff.
I understand that you had a bad experience, and yes, there's risk here, to be sure. But there's also a *lot* of information in the last year, adjustments to the product, and a much more stable series of reports about performance after the initial batch.
I'm not defending it, I'm just saying that it's not as black and white as you and the german retailer here is making it seem. A *lot* of folks have had great experiences with it. We're on a forum for trying cheap alternatives to western products and all the tinkering and nuance that comes with that - this is that, to me. There's no comparison of a 105 mech set against the eRX as they have different functions and features and any western electric gruppo is going to be out of range for some folks that are interested in the value that this gruppo can offer.. If someone is interested in trying this product out, it's okay for them to take the full scope of anecdotes available, including yours and including mine.
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well the egr looks basically like the new erx design with a clutch and no fd so I'd assume it'd be a bit more trustworthy
Well, building a gravel bike with the eGR in a couple of weeks, so I'll let ya know. Haha.
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I understand that you had a bad experience, and yes, there's risk here, to be sure. But there's also a *lot* of information in the last year, adjustments to the product, and a much more stable series of reports about performance after the initial batch.
I'm not defending it, I'm just saying that it's not as black and white as you and the german retailer here is making it seem. A *lot* of folks have had great experiences with it. We're on a forum for trying cheap alternatives to western products and all the tinkering and nuance that comes with that - this is that, to me. There's no comparison of a 105 mech set against the eRX as they have different functions and features and any western electric gruppo is going to be out of range for some folks that are interested in the value that this gruppo can offer.. If someone is interested in trying this product out, it's okay for them to take the full scope of anecdotes available, including yours and including mine.
Well, i just inform about the problems we have with the factory regarding customer service and the way they treat problems. sorry to say it is black for us.....so i do not make anything "seem" to be...
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Had another small issue with my eR9 groupset today. There was suddenly a crunching sound from the rear derailleur in all gears. Turns out that the B tension screw had worked its way out and the upper jockey wheel was touching the cassette.
Identifying the problem and fixing it was quick and easy (screw it back in), and I've applied some Loctite to hopefully prevent it from happening again. But it's not something I've experienced on other groupsets.
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I was having few minor bugs on my 2nd ER9 groupset, but I think I've ironed them out. I think the issues might be related to the batteries I'm using. For some reason, this set of EBL 14500 batteries purchased from EBay doesn't show the accurate battery status. It just reads 100%. My other ER9 bike is now using the same batteries and the battery status is also at 100% regardless if I've rode the bike. This wasn't an issue before I swapped the batteries. Though battery life and power drain seem more steady, so I'll keep using them for now.
If anyone knows of another set of batteries that can be purchased in the US, I'm open to suggestions.
In terms of functionality though, both ER9 bikes are working properly with no other issues. In terms of shift speed while using continuous high shifting, it's definite much smoother than either my GRX or previous Ultegra setups. That's on both 11 and 12 speed cassettes. Honestly I don't think I'd want to deal with shift cabling moving forward.
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If anyone knows of another set of batteries that can be purchased in the US, I'm open to suggestions.
https://liionwholesale.com/collections/batteries/products/vapcell-14500-purple-white-10a-button-top-1000mah-battery-genuine?variant=31261628137541
I'm using these batteries and no issues with it for the past 7 months.
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https://liionwholesale.com/collections/batteries/products/vapcell-14500-purple-white-10a-button-top-1000mah-battery-genuine?variant=31261628137541
I'm using these batteries and no issues with it for the past 7 months.
well, usually battery status uses the voltage of the battery, if the voltage after charging is higher than the normal parameters it may show you 100 % for a longer time, 0.1 Volts above can make a difference.
wich battery to chose? as Ltwoo is not effecient when changing gears, so current which is drawn by the system can overreach some of the battery parameters.
High C-Rate batteries are the ones you are looking for, as they keep the voltage stable and higher for a longer time if.
Usually good e-vape cells should do the trick..
Sometimes it is also necessary to check voltage directly after completed charging cycles, i have seen some major offsets regarding charged batteries, which basically indicates a bad charger hard- or software, but i do not want to complain again..
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well, usually battery status uses the voltage of the battery, if the voltage after charging is higher than the normal parameters it may show you 100 % for a longer time, 0.1 Volts above can make a difference.
wich battery to chose? as Ltwoo is not effentient when changing gears, so current which is drawn by the system can overreach some of the battery parameters.
High C-Rate batteries are the ones you are looking for, as they keep the voltage stable and higher for a longer time if.
Usually good e-vape cells should do the trick..
Sometimes it is also necessary to check voltage directly after completed charging cycles, i have seen some major offsets regarding charged batteries, which basically indicates a bad charger hard- or software, but i do not want to complain again..
I don't know anything about batteries. Vapcell was a brand recommended on /r/flashlight on Reddit. I just went with something that seemed to be a good price and brand.
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I don't know anything about batteries. Vapcell was a brand recommended on /r/flashlight on Reddit. I just went with something that seemed to be a good price and brand.
that was a good recommendation....vapcell rebrands and has own factories as for as i know....if they are genuine, they should be fine with higher discharge currents and have low voltage drops.
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I upgraded from 11 to 12 speed today on my eR9 equipped bike. By:
- Changing the cassette
- Changing the chain
- Adjusting the gears in the app
That's it! This is such an underrated feature of this groupset (and the Wheeltop one too).
Why go to 12 speed? I wanted to try the lightweight Goldix monoblock steel cassettes, as recommended by jonathanf2 on this forum. Those cassettes are available in both 11 and 12 speed, and I figured 12 > 11 ;D
I can also confirm that 11-34T, with 50/34T at the front, is at the absolute limit of what the derailleur cage can handle, so max capacity of 39. And the chain length has to be spot on at that setup. One link more, and there's too much slack in small/small. One link less (which is what I did at first), and the chain runs nearly straight when passing through the jockey wheels. And my B tension screw has only a few millimeters of additional travel left.
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I upgraded from 11 to 12 speed today on my eR9 equipped bike. By:
- Changing the cassette
- Changing the chain
- Adjusting the gears in the app
That's it! This is such an underrated feature of this groupset (and the Wheeltop one too).
Why go to 12 speed? I wanted to try the lightweight Goldix monoblock steel cassettes, as recommended by jonathanf2 on this forum. Those cassettes are available in both 11 and 12 speed, and I figured 12 > 11 ;D
I can also confirm that 11-34T, with 50/34T at the front, is at the absolute limit of what the derailleur cage can handle, so max capacity of 39. And the chain length has to be spot on at that setup. One link more, and there's too much slack in small/small. One link less (which is what I did at first), and the chain runs nearly straight when passing through the jockey wheels. And my B tension screw has only a few millimeters of additional travel left.
Your experience with the 11-34t matches up with my findings. The ER9/X doesn't have much leeway in terms of chain line. Same goes with running 52-36t, 11-32t seems to be largest cassette you can run with that chainring size. Which works out, because both bikes have the same length chains.
I was thinking of trying the Goldix 12 speed 11-32t cassette for my other ER9 setup with the 52-36t, but my current Ultegra 11-32t cassette is still in good condition. Also I find with 12 speed on the big ring, gear protection kicks in at 3rd gear. With 11 speed, gear protection kicks in at 2nd gear.
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just came bike from putting my bike on the turbo because of the shitty weather here.
As i have a 10 speed casette on the turbo i switched to 10 speed in the app and oh boy, all options below 10 speed are gone. App version 2.6.0
Can anyone confirm this?
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Your experience with the 11-34t matches up with my findings. The ER9/X doesn't have much leeway in terms of chain line. Same goes with running 52-36t, 11-32t seems to be largest cassette you can run with that chainring size. Which works out, because both bikes have the same length chains.
I’m using 52/36 with an 11-34/12sp cassette. I got it set up so that the big/big combo is usable and the small/small combo is noisy but not completely slack. I’m never using any of these combos and the gear protection feature is keeping me from doing it as well. But it’s definitely pushing what the RD can do. And I suspect that the curve that the RD parallelogram makes is not ideal for this type of cassette. Hence my complaints that the shifting sensation is a bit underwhelming at times. It’s slightly rough and just doesn’t feel as refined as I’m used to. But it certainly doesn’t slow me down.
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I’m using 52/36 with an 11-34/12sp cassette. I got it set up so that the big/big combo is usable and the small/small combo is noisy but not completely slack. I’m never using any of these combos and the gear protection feature is keeping me from doing it as well. But it’s definitely pushing what the RD can do. And I suspect that the curve that the RD parallelogram makes is not ideal for this type of cassette. Hence my complaints that the shifting sensation is a bit underwhelming at times. It’s slightly rough and just doesn’t feel as refined as I’m used to. But it certainly doesn’t slow me down.
I tried that combo and while it worked with the appropriate chain length, the derailleur cage is too bouncy to handle it properly for the kind of terrain I ride in. You should consider either 52/36+11-32 or 50/34+11-34 to get optimal performance. Either combo works well enough I don't miss my Ultegra mechanical setup. Though I'm firmly in the 2x gravel camp and it seems none of the Chinese groupset makers want to dabble in that space.
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just came bike from putting my bike on the turbo because of the shitty weather here.
As i have a 10 speed casette on the turbo i switched to 10 speed in the app and oh boy, all options below 10 speed are gone. App version 2.6.0
Can anyone confirm this?
I'm on app ver. 2.6.1 and all cassette speed options are available.
FYI - If your smartphone isn't connected to the internet, the app can still access the groupset using the passcode (default 0-0-0). Someone asked what would happen if LTwoo went out of business and there are no updates or changes. At least if you have an older device with the app the groupset will be adjustable in the long term.
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before the issues, we have installed a 11-36 cassette, 11 speed and it worked ok....
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the derailleur cage is too bouncy to handle it properly
I have zero issues with a bouncing derailleur cage, despite riding cobbles and pretty bad roads at times. In fact, the cage tension is the highest I ever had on a non clutch RD. I think I dropped the chain once, since I'm running this groupset.
The issue is more with the upper pulley tracking the cassette closely. Obviously, you need to set it up so it clears the biggest cog. That means however that the upper pulley is further away than I would like it to be in the middle gears of the cassette. Hence, the shifting performance suffers slightly. It's a compromise and it doesn't feel ideal. It probably has to do with the RD's parallelogram curve. It's officially designed for a max cassette size of 11-32, after all.
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Just a short upgrade on the LTWOO Story...
as they have had a booth on the Eurobike (not in the cheap china halls) we have decided to give them a mystery visit.
We have asked about the er9 erx and the problems everybody could read online and the videos on youtube....They told me, the products work absolutely flawless and if any problems occur, customer service would step in.
After we have stated, that we have had trouble with er9 and that help has been ignored by customer service, they told me i never ever bought the products from the factory otherwise, they would have swapped immediately for free to help
and customer service is flawless. my products must have been bought at aliexpress and they are not capable of the service levels on aliexpress.
Funfact: when we ordred our first batch, we only did this, as the salesperson garantueed no aliexpress sales..(which started, when the shit hit the fan quality wise, so they could get some volume)
Well, the company i bought from is the same as shown on their name cards (factory)they gave me before..i have asked, if the company on their name card is the factury for sure...they confirmed...they seem to have installed a ltwoo europe outlet with a new sales guy. I did not shown them our invoices, which state that we have bought directly at the factory.
We just collected impressions and wanted to state it here...
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Yeah not surprised. Should really get this info through to Joe, Trace, Nero guys. This should not stay contained to the couple 100 or so ppl who read this thread. Is there even an "official" channel for non-chinese buyers?
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Well, the sales guy is officially working for jagwire europe according to linkedin.... no idea.....i am sure, he told me what ltwoo wanted him to tell customers....it is the usual chinese way of doing business...they have used the market for evolving the product fast and getting the product payed...doing that without r+d by customers, it is more expensive...of course they kind of destroyed the brand name...even joe at panda cycling does not sell the products...
they need to establish a new brand, buy a knockdown company and use this brand....who knows....
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Sometimes I wish I could browse the Chinese web and check what they are saying about LTWOO and the ER9/ERX group set. The sample size probably is much bigger there and we would get a more reliable overview ...
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I have that same wish often
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I have an outstanding claim for 3 er9 RDs. It's been back and forth for months at this point. They're making life impossible, ghosting, then moving the goal post, I've basically given up, I'm preserving my sanity that's worth more than a few hundred bucks.
It's impressive how shitty they are.
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Sometimes I wish I could browse the Chinese web and check what they are saying about LTWOO and the ER9/ERX group set. The sample size probably is much bigger there and we would get a more reliable overview ...
well, if panda podium states, that his sales are very very low...the brand seems to have screwed up even in china.
once again, the domestic market explodes and their low budget groupsets work and sell pretty good.
The basically do not care about er9 or electronic group problems and feedback....
But i have seen many chinese companies visiting fairs, looking for the people who do not know about current situations and start doing business with them , seeing an opportunity.
currently, i have not even seen a ce certificate, which makes the products illegal to sell and import...
any distributor or seller would have to invest in this themselves.
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While it's a shame you've had to go through this, at least it has reassured me to stay far away from them for now when you see this is how they treat a wholesaler who should (in theory) be helping to grow the brand in Europe.
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I don't think panda podium sells much in china in general. Ltwoo are a huge OEM provider for complete bikes in china though
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I don't think panda podium sells much in china in general. Ltwoo are a huge OEM provider for complete bikes in china though
Well, i am sure he does...this is a huge market which currently explodes...
which is good, because lots of factories are loosing big chunks of business with overseas..
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It's getting hard to just hand wave away all of these stories. This is a damn shame, because I am enjoying the heck out of my eGR and was considering an eR9 for a road build. I guess I'll just wait to see how the market evolves with Magene, Sensah, and Wheeltop in the fray now.
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Today still got one of the bikes running with my ER9 set and it's still faultless. Not going to say this too loud.. Sold my EGR because of the fear of issues.
If they want they could have a huge portion of the market at the lower price.
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Today still got one of the bikes running with my ER9 set and it's still faultless. Not going to say this too loud.. Sold my EGR because of the fear of issues.
If they want they could have a huge portion of the market at the lower price.
eGR thread has been dead silent compared to this eR9/eRX thread. Similar lack of info all around the web on the eGR. Only thing that makes sense to me is that it's more of a niche product and they're selling fewer of them, fewer people are talking about them, etc. Also, there have been no firmware updates at all. Maybe they're selling a ton of them and there are just no issues to report and no issues to correct? I don't know, but I am enjoying the heck out of mine and I hope it continues.
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eGR thread has been dead silent compared to this eR9/eRX thread. Similar lack of info all around the web on the eGR. Only thing that makes sense to me is that it's more of a niche product and they're selling fewer of them, fewer people are talking about them, etc. Also, there have been no firmware updates at all. Maybe they're selling a ton of them and there are just no issues to report and no issues to correct? I don't know, but I am enjoying the heck out of mine and I hope it continues.
It's the silence that is stopping me from going to eGR route. Nothing on youtube for months, barely a mention here or reddit. It's either not popular, or people have installed it and it's working fine?
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It's the silence that is stopping me from going to eGR route. Nothing on youtube for months, barely a mention here or reddit. It's either not popular, or people have installed it and it's working fine?
Well, they do not want to spoil problems currently...just imagine having youtubers testing the product honestly and note all the bad behaviours service wise in their videos, while Ltwoo is on the biggest bike exhibition world wide in Frankfurt.
Does not make sense..
Few people know ltwoo, so all the people who have visited the booth check the brand online and they can argue: well, thats old problems.
As the final two days on the fair were public days, many endusers got to know the brand, will look up the product and find it on aliexpress (we have delisted electronic sets from them currently) and buy...we will see how that goes in a month or so.
once again, of course we have had faulty products from other suppliers but the big brands take responsability for their products and try to help...
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Has anyone had trouble with the brakes.
I have had troubles with brake failure but it could be my mechanical skills.
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Has anyone had trouble with the brakes.
I have had troubles with brake failure but it could be my mechanical skills.
probably your skills. i dont think i m aware of anyone who's had issues with the ltwoo brakes (let's give credit where it is due :)
I changed the pads to ceramic ones on AliX, and braking feels (even) better than stock pads. I dont think it's in my head, i feel i have (even) more stopping power.
Havent done anything scientific to quantify that though. but my front pads were halfway dead and 2 new pairs were like 9 eur. they bedded in almost instanlty, and havent squealed until now. The jury will stay out on longevity for some time.
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probably your skills. i dont think i m aware of anyone who's had issues with the ltwoo brakes (let's give credit where it is due :)
Just yesterday evening I was riding and twice needed to stop short to save my life, and the brakes worked phenomenally. I've never had 2 close calls on one short ride before, I was a little rattled after the second one and I locked up both brakes on asphalt briefly. First one was a lesson in physics that I sorted out in my head for the next 10 minutes. Second one was just a bad driver.
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Has anyone had trouble with the brakes.
I have had troubles with brake failure but it could be my mechanical skills.
nope, no problems with the brakes..
but we also do mount many shimano brake setups as the flatmount adaptors may work but are not popular optically on the bikes we sell...
we did not have any problems with the brakes on the sets we sold (12 month in the market)
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Tip: Use thicker rotors for reduced brake lever reach
I initially set up my L-Twoo eR9 groupset with Shimano SM-RT70 160mm center lock brake disc rotors front and rear. Braking power and feel was great, but I had to push the levers away from the bars by winding in the 2mm screw at the front of the levers (https://youtu.be/watch?v=53qM8N8_hXQ&t=11s), otherwise the levers would touch the bars when braking hard.
Winding in the screw reduces brake travel by preloading the hydraulic piston, positioning the brake pads closer to the rotor. However, winding in the screw also pushes the brake levers further from the handlebars. The result was that the lever reach was a little longer than what I was comfortable with.
I looked for some thicker rotors to remedy the problem, and I eventually purchased these Enlee 160mm rotors: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006060575685.html
They're very similar in design to SRAM CenterLine XR (CLX-R) rotors (https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/rt-clx-r-a1), but with different shaped cutouts on the braking surface. I've also seen the rotors sold on AliExpress under the brands Mana, Meroca, and ZRace. They come with external spline lock rings that I'm not a fan of, but internal spline lock rings should also work fine.
The Enlee rotors are not for weight weenies, and they're a little heavier than advertised, my scales show 140g without the lock ring, and 147g with the lock ring. Thickness is difficult to measure as I don't have a micrometer, but my digital vernier calipers suggest that they're somewhere around 1.85-1.9mm thick.
With the Enlee rotors installed, I could position the brake levers closer to the handlebars by winding out the free stroke adjustment screw - success!
After bedding in, braking power feels the same as with the Shimano rotors, using the stock L-Twoo brake pads. The Enlee rotors are ever so slightly noisier - no screeching noise at all, but a sort of sandpaper-like sound. I don't live in the mountains, but I took them down a local descent on the weekend (Akuna Bay clockwise for Sydney-siders), and I didn't experience any brake rub after I got to the bottom.
A bonus is that these rotors look better than the Shimano SM-RT70 (105 level) rotors IMO. 8)
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Had a counter experience with LTWOO support. One of the two we are testing failed and they shipped a replacement rear mech (which has been flawless) straightaway.
I will say the 2032 cells shipped with the grifters were shit (as measured on our tester) and replacing them hel-ed immensely. I do wish the rear mech had more capacity or that the egr mech worked with the bringers and 2x. We really want a replacement for the ultegra rx mech which go to 42 easily
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Posting here as the e-gr thread is a lot quieter. I've moved my e-gr groupset between bikes and I can't get the RD to do anything. No charging light, no movement. Have checked all connections thoroughly.
What are the contact details that have been the most successful? It was an AliExpress purchase from the official store, so have messaged there for now.
Really need it working for race in around 6 weeks time and ideally sooner so I can actually practice!
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Had a counter experience with LTWOO support. One of the two we are testing failed and they shipped a replacement rear mech (which has been flawless) straightaway.
I will say the 2032 cells shipped with the grifters were shit (as measured on our tester) and replacing them hel-ed immensely. I do wish the rear mech had more capacity or that the egr mech worked with the bringers and 2x. We really want a replacement for the ultegra rx mech which go to 42 easily
What support channel have you used please?
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Had a counter experience with LTWOO support. One of the two we are testing failed and they shipped a replacement rear mech (which has been flawless) straightaway.
I will say the 2032 cells shipped with the grifters were shit (as measured on our tester) and replacing them hel-ed immensely. I do wish the rear mech had more capacity or that the egr mech worked with the bringers and 2x. We really want a replacement for the ultegra rx mech which go to 42 easily
sounds very strange to me....you are the first one which actually got help. who did you speak with....did you buy directly at the factory? how long did it take to get the new item?
of course not only me is interested in the contacts...factory?
I have noticed, that some of the youtube videos which basically stated ltwoo is rubbihs have disappeared..
maybe we are withness of the new marketing strategy of ltwoo?
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maybe we are withness of the new marketing strategy of ltwoo?
Shut up all the "liars" /s
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I have noticed, that some of the youtube videos which basically stated ltwoo is rubbish have disappeared..
Youtubers make money from brand deals and promotions much more than from views these days, so that wouldn't surprise me. The content on chinese bike frames and components is so incredibly skewed towards brands that provide kick backs.
On Instagram, i'm also seeing girls with hundreds of thousands of followers (can't all be bots) still shilling for shampoos and crisps, even though their profiles promote ultra high end lifestyles.
Follow the money.
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I'm looking at getting picking up a used road bike so I can run 2 bikes. Mostly rim brake bikes available for prices I'm interested in and I'm fine with that. The ER9 is only available for hydraulic disc brakes, but could I pair it with some hydraulic rim brake calipers and use those with it?
I could see maybe using the wheeltop or something else, but I already have an eGR so it might be nice to have spare charging cables, batteries, etc.
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could I pair it with some hydraulic rim brake calipers
Are there any Chiner hydro rim calipers? Or which ones are you talking about, because this would be a great news for me too.
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Shut up all the "liars" /s
do not know, but i would appreciate more info from lavistaa
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I just took one of my ER9 bikes out for a ride today after a 2 week hiatus while on vacation. Everything worked fine. Only problem is that my fitness took a dive!
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Same here, another 1000 miles in on my ERX and not a single issue to speak of. I'll report back on the EGR that I'm building my new gravel bike with.
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Same here, another 1000 miles in on my ERX and not a single issue to speak of. I'll report back on the EGR that I'm building my new gravel bike with.
You're probably one of the few who has both ERX and EGR. Do you mind trying to pair EGR shifters to the ERX RD/FD? I have not seen any reports on the compatibility on all LTWOO system.
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You're probably one of the few who has both ERX and EGR. Do you mind trying to pair EGR shifters to the ERX RD/FD? I have not seen any reports on the compatibility on all LTWOO system.
Yes, that would be GREAT info. I would love to hear someone test that. I have an eGR and would love to know if it pairs with any other Ltwoo electronics parts.
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You're probably one of the few who has both ERX and EGR. Do you mind trying to pair EGR shifters to the ERX RD/FD? I have not seen any reports on the compatibility on all LTWOO system.
Yeah, I can check it next time I'm out in the garage, headed out to dinner currently!
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This doesn't bode well for LTWOO in the Western market:
https://youtu.be/kPgnPGX-gs4?t=3473
Timestamp is at 58:00, Jesse Coyle recounts his experience on ER9.
What I do find slightly odd, is that LTWOO had plenty of notice that he was going to be building up his bike with the ER9, so they could have provided him with a bomb proof groupset, but obviously they didn't - water and dirt ingress and now he doesn't trust it, just like pretty much everyone else who have put out YT reviews.
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This doesn't bode well for LTWOO in the Western market:
https://youtu.be/kPgnPGX-gs4?t=3473
Timestamp is at 58:00, Jesse Coyle recounts his experience on ER9.
What I do find slightly odd, is that LTWOO had plenty of notice that he was going to be building up his bike with the ER9, so they could have provided him with a bomb proof groupset, but obviously they didn't - water and dirt ingress and now he doesn't trust it, just like pretty much everyone else who have put out YT reviews.
And again this "we fixed it in the new version", I hear it every time, and groupsets continue to die.
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Yeah, they really dont give a shit
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They had all the things in favor, all the momentum and shit and they blew it up. That may be one of the worst fails by a big company I've seen.
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And again this "we fixed it in the new version", I hear it every time, and groupsets continue to die.
Yep. What a load of crap - continuously "we've fixed it" when they clearly haven't.
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I'm affraid to sell my bike with this group on because what if the person after me has issues lol..
So far it's been bombproof even in pouring rain etc, fingers crossed but it's really good.
My main bike now has 105 di2 just because of the fear that something would happen.
Could always tell the wife I need two bike. Because the gravel doesn't count as backup since it has wider tyres lol
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I mean... there is maybe some hope from this video. I was intrigued that they are making these changes and updates to it but not selling it. They are apparently still "working out the bugs" with it but not doing it to the buying public. But, it's boneheaded for them to have sent a work-in-progress with known issues to someone who was making internet videos.
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I have 2 ER9 groupsets and had a few bug. Took apart both systems to figure out the problems and managed to fix all issues. All my cable connectors are rubber cemented in with dielectric grease and I use alloy chain catchers. I'm not a particularly good bike mechanic, but even I've been able to get two of these ER9 systems to work properly. I clean my bikes after each ride and rotate my immersive waxed chains on a regular basis to keep the drivetrain spotless.
Also I just don't ride my road bikes in the rain. I go straight to my mechanical gravel bike when it comes to wet or rainy weather. Maybe it's just this younger generation that can't figure s**t out. They go straight to cry baby mode when any minor problem occurs! Lol
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I have 2 ER9 groupsets and had a few bug. Took apart both systems to figure out the problems and managed to fix all issues. All my cable connectors are rubber cemented in with dielectric grease and I use alloy chain catchers. I'm not a particularly good bike mechanic, but even I've been able to get two of these ER9 systems to work properly. I clean my bikes after each ride and rotate my immersive waxed chains on a regular basis to keep the drivetrain spotless.
Also I just don't ride my road bikes in the rain. I go straight to my mechanical gravel bike when it comes to wet or rainy weather. Maybe it's just this younger generation that can't figure s**t out. They go straight to cry baby mode when any minor problem occurs! Lol
I too have two eR9 sets and have been suspiciously running well. I hope I don't jinx it.
Sometimes I am also amazed at how clueless most people are on basic bike maintenance. Though in all fairness, people who are willing to try LTWOO systems must be at least somewhat comfortable tinkering around the bike. LTWOO definite still have some works to do.
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I too have two eR9 sets and have been suspiciously running well. I hope I don't jinx it.
Sometimes I am also amazed at how clueless most people are on basic bike maintenance. Though in all fairness, people who are willing to try LTWOO systems must be at least somewhat comfortable tinkering around the bike. LTWOO definite still have some works to do.
I have no doubt there are bad groupsets out there and that LTwoo's weather-sealing is subpar. Though why would anyone who's willing to pay over $1k USD for a frameset and probably more $$$ for a wheelset use a budget electronic groupset? At minimum I'd get 105 Di2 or Force AXS. LTwoo and Wheeltop at this point is for budget DIY'ers willing to figure things out while drinking a beer at midnight on the bike stand!
From my observation using this system, this is how I'd rate the reliability of LTwoo ER9/X components:
1. Brake calipers are surprisingly good though their proprietary mount sucks. At least you have the option to use Shimano mineral oil calipers.
2. Shifters are solid, tactile feedback isn't great, but they work. No real issue there.
3. Battery holder w/springs does the job, but needs to be properly secured in seat post.
4. FD is okay, not as good as Shimano. I'd use a chain catcher for added insurance.
5. Battery cables are flimsy and need additional weather protection. Room for improvement.
6. Most if not all issues from this groupset are from the RD going bad which is also the brains of the entire system. At least spare RDs are currently available for purchase.
7. Batteries. This will either make or break the entire groupset. Spend more than $10 USD and get something good.
I'd definitely use gear protection at all times and I'd only turn it off when fine-tuning the bike. 34t is the biggest I'd go on the cassette and only with a 50-34t.
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Maybe it's just this younger generation that can't figure s**t out. They go straight to cry baby mode when any minor problem occurs! Lol
You surely have to be talking about ltwoo engineers here right lol
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You surely have to be talking about ltwoo engineers here right lol
What's there to complain about? I have 2 electronic groupsets that can run 7-13 speed cassettes which cost $350-400 USD a piece. Even if one of the RDs go bad, the overall cost is still less next to comparable systems if I need to get a replacement RD. The same situation could occur if I dropped or crashed a Di2/AXS equipped bike and needed to replace a component. On the plus side, I'm not locked into any cassette speed, forced to use DOT brake calipers, buy proprietary flat top chains and I can use off-the-shell rechargeable 14500 batteries.
Again, if someone needs weather-durability, either stick to mechanical or spend the extra cash for Shimano or SRAM. It's already been established buying any of these AliEx/overseas components have risks associated with them. A little forethought and risk prevention/assessment goes a long way.
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On the plus side, I'm not locked into any cassette speed, forced to use DOT brake calipers, buy proprietary flat top chains and I can use off-the-shell rechargeable 14500 batteries.
Again, if someone needs weather-durability, either stick to mechanical or spend the extra cash for Shimano or SRAM. It's already been established buying any of these AliEx/overseas components have risks associated with them. A little forethought and risk prevention/assessment goes a long way.
It's easy to lose sight of the potential. Yes, there are some issues that are still being worked out. Is it ready for primetime? Maybe not.
But... the things you just pointed out are true. It's kind of wild that you can use any cassette of any kind and dial it in. I'm not locked into HG or XD or microspline when selecting cassettes or wheelsets. I'm not locked into any particular ANYTHING. Maybe don't have this on your race bike, but this is a wild tool to have in your garage for fitting up a muggle bike build.
I think Wheeltop has the slight edge with the full wireless setup and the option for rim brakes. My mind goes to WEIRD places when I think of the fun I'd have with one of those setups. Some nasty slick old steel bike builds. Or, my personal favorite thing to dream about, a cheap steel or aluminum tandem build. What wheelset does it come with, how many speeds, where do you run the wires? NONE OF THAT MATTERS.
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What's there to complain about? I have 2 electronic groupsets that can run 7-13 speed cassettes which cost $350-400 USD a piece. Even if one of the RDs go bad, the overall cost is still less next to comparable systems if I need to get a replacement RD. The same situation could occur if I dropped or crashed a Di2/AXS equipped bike and needed to replace a component. On the plus side, I'm not locked into any cassette speed, forced to use DOT brake calipers, buy proprietary flat top chains and I can use off-the-shell rechargeable 14500 batteries.
Again, if someone needs weather-durability, either stick to mechanical or spend the extra cash for Shimano or SRAM. It's already been established buying any of these AliEx/overseas components have risks associated with them. A little forethought and risk prevention/assessment goes a long way.
No complaints, just a laugh from a clown
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LTwoo and Wheeltop at this point is for budget DIY'ers willing to figure things out while drinking a beer at midnight on the bike stand!
Excellent.
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4000+ k now on my er9.
I did a 220km ride today which started in pretty awful rainy conditions and I had wet roads/road spray and grime throughout. I must say after all these stories I am a bit anxious that at some point I’m gonna click the button on the shifter and nothing happens. But it keeps working just fine, no matter what I put it through.
Edit: Sorry for the pic from the NDS. I was pretty spent when I shot this. ;)
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4000+ k now on my er9.
I did a 220km ride today which started in pretty awful rainy conditions and I had wet roads/road spray and grime throughout. I must say after all these stories I am a bit anxious that at some point I’m gonna click the button on the shifter and nothing happens. But it keeps working just fine, no matter what I put it through.
Edit: Sorry for the pic from the NDS. I was pretty spent when I shot this. ;)
What calipers are you using?
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Campagnolo.
The LTwoo hydraulics are a carbon copy of Campagnolo‘s internals. I know, because I own Campagnolo Ekar on my gravel bike. Works well together. I bought them used. And the front caliper doesn’t need an adapter for 160mm rotors which looks better IMO.
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4000+ k now on my er9.
I did a 220km ride today which started in pretty awful rainy conditions and I had wet roads/road spray and grime throughout. I must say after all these stories I am a bit anxious that at some point I’m gonna click the button on the shifter and nothing happens. But it keeps working just fine, no matter what I put it through.
Edit: Sorry for the pic from the NDS. I was pretty spent when I shot this. ;)
Did you do any kind of weatherproofing to your connections or rear mech? Or are you riding it as it came?
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Did you do any kind of weatherproofing to your connections or rear mech? Or are you riding it as it came?
I rode it as it came. Then I experienced laggy shifting on the RD during a ride. After that I smeared some dielectric grease around the RD cable plug to seal it. Haven’t touched it since. Probably around 3000k since I did it. No issues. I left the FD untouched.
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Today I rode my other ER9 bike after being sick for a few days. Seriously, no issues with either bike. Maybe living in sunny, dry weather is key to having trouble free performance!
I don't really have any complaint other than wanting more cassette capacity. I think the big advantage with 105 Di2 is being able to run max 36t on the cassette.
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I’ve ridden mine in plenty of horrible weather. Probably around 40-50% of the rides I did so far as it’s a very wet summer in Europe this year. No issues apart from the one time when I sealed the plug afterwards.
Also, after fine tuning the indexing further, shifting performance and chain tension with 52/36 up front and 11-34 in the back is absolutely fine. I’ve been doing a lot of climbing this week and used the whole range of the cassette and had no issues.
The only thing that keeps happening to me is that on bumpy descents when braking before a corner, I do sometimes accidentally hit the front shifting button and drop the chain to the small ring. Pretty annoying but not a huge issue. It just has to do with the ergonomics of the shift buttons and the brake lever and where my hands are. The textured button protrudes ever so slightly too much from the brake lever IMO. So I have to pay attention to not grab the lever the wrong way, otherwise I’ll push the button by accident.
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The only thing that keeps happening to me is that on bumpy descents when braking before a corner, I do sometimes accidentally hit the front shifting button and drop the chain to the small ring. Pretty annoying but not a huge issue. It just has to do with the ergonomics of the shift buttons and the brake lever and where my hands are. The textured button protrudes ever so slightly too much from the brake lever IMO. So I have to pay attention to not grab the lever the wrong way, otherwise I’ll push the button by accident.
Thanks that i'm not the only one with that problem. Sometimes super annoying, especially when you don't feel the shift and start pedalling.
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Thanks that i'm not the only one with that problem. Sometimes super annoying, especially when you don't feel the shift and start pedalling.
Yeah, if that button had a touch more resistance and clicky feedback to it, I guess it wouldn’t happen half as often. But if I have to negotiate potholes and bumps under braking, it can happen quite easily if I don’t pay attention. And you only really realise once you start pedalling again.
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I’ve ridden mine in plenty of horrible weather. Probably around 40-50% of the rides I did so far as it’s a very wet summer in Europe this year. No issues apart from the one time when I sealed the plug afterwards.
Also, after fine tuning the indexing further, shifting performance and chain tension with 52/36 up front and 11-34 in the back is absolutely fine. I’ve been doing a lot of climbing this week and used the whole range of the cassette and had no issues.
The only thing that keeps happening to me is that on bumpy descents when braking before a corner, I do sometimes accidentally hit the front shifting button and drop the chain to the small ring. Pretty annoying but not a huge issue. It just has to do with the ergonomics of the shift buttons and the brake lever and where my hands are. The textured button protrudes ever so slightly too much from the brake lever IMO. So I have to pay attention to not grab the lever the wrong way, otherwise I’ll push the button by accident.
I've been hesitant to wash my bike, but since I don't ride in the rain often it only requires a wipe down after every ride. Maybe when winter comes, I'll test out the ER9 in wet conditions. It seems at this point, as long as the rear derailleur battery cable is protected, the ER9 should be okay.
When I sized up the chain length for 52-36/11-34t, I found it more prone to chain slap. It was too loose for my taste. I removed 2 chain links and went down to an 11-32t cassette instead. It feels much more concise at that length and I can still climb at that gearing, but I do rely on my lowest gear more often. Compared to my gravel bike running an Ultegra RX800 RD, by far the spring tension even with the clutch is off, is much more firm. I'm wondering if it's just a cost-cutting measure by LTwoo or if Shimano has some patent on beefy rear derailleur springs?
I also occasionally hit the left shift button when on bumpy descents. When I first installed the groupset it was an issue, but now that I'm aware of it, it's been less of an issue.
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Compared to my gravel bike running an Ultegra RX800 RD, by far the spring tension even with the clutch is off, is much more firm. I'm wondering if it's just a cost-cutting measure by LTwoo or if Shimano has some patent on beefy rear derailleur springs?
I also occasionally hit the left shift button when on bumpy descents. When I first installed the groupset it was an issue, but now that I'm aware of it, it's been less of an issue.
I'm not sure the reason, but I would guess neither of those reasons. Maybe some other design decision, though. The Ltwoo eGR has mega spring tension. It's impressive how stable and taught the RD keeps the chain. The eGR doesn't have a clutch, but it retains the chain WAY better than my Advent X 1x10 that did have a clutch.
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I wonder if my RD is a different revision. Like I said earlier, my RD has the highest spring tension of any non clutch RD, I ever had. Not as hardcore as for instance on my Campy Ekar 1x RD. But it's still a lot. It's so high that I didn't even bother to put on any chainstay protection. And in +4000km of riding there's not a single scratch on the chainstay. It's a complete non issue on mine. And I could probably shorten the chain by another two links, if I deemed it absolutely necessary. The small/small combo is a touch too slack, but I don't really care. It's not dangerously slack and I never use that gear apart from the aforementioned accidental downshift on the front.
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I also have an er9 without any problem with water. I have washed the bike several times. the only problem I had was with the fd, which from the first to the last gear had a problem. yesterday for the first time I noticed that there was probably an update and there are three levels of adjustment in the fd. my great suffering was finally solved. every time you press the shifter, depending on what speed you are in, the position of the fd also changes
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i use XTAR 14500 800mah with no problem. no drain. and they lasted for many changes
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I also have an er9 without any problem with water. I have washed the bike several times. the only problem I had was with the fd, which from the first to the last gear had a problem. yesterday for the first time I noticed that there was probably an update and there are three levels of adjustment in the fd. my great suffering was finally solved. every time you press the shifter, depending on what speed you are in, the position of the fd also changes
I understand that now the front derailleur is automatically adjusted the same way as SRAM? Do you have a new update that introduces this possibility?
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I recently did a stint with Zrace XG brake calipers with my ER9, but when it was time to replace the pads while using aftermarket Shimano L05A finned pads, there was zero leeway for the rotors. I didn't want to bother sanding down the pads, so I ended up just going back to my LTwoo brake calipers. While I'm not too fond of the added weight especially with the adapter plates, they do seem more accommodating to fit aftermarket brake pads that tend to have thicker pad material. Plus I was having sticky piston issues with the Zrace calipers, so I figure I might as well swap back.
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I recently did a stint with Zrace XG brake calipers with my ER9, but when it was time to replace the pads while using aftermarket Shimano L05A finned pads, there was zero leeway for the rotors. I didn't want to bother sanding down the pads, so I ended up just going back to my LTwoo brake calipers. While I'm not too fond of the added weight especially with the adapter plates, they do seem more accommodating to fit aftermarket brake pads that tend to have thicker pad material. Plus I was having sticky piston issues with the Zrace calipers, so I figure I might as well swap back.
Maybe too much oil in the system? Did you by any chance bleed your brakes with used brake pads?
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I recently did a stint with Zrace XG brake calipers with my ER9, but when it was time to replace the pads while using aftermarket Shimano L05A finned pads, there was zero leeway for the rotors. I didn't want to bother sanding down the pads, so I ended up just going back to my LTwoo brake calipers. While I'm not too fond of the added weight especially with the adapter plates, they do seem more accommodating to fit aftermarket brake pads that tend to have thicker pad material. Plus I was having sticky piston issues with the Zrace calipers, so I figure I might as well swap back.
I have been running eR9 with the Zrace XG caliper for the past >4000km and have been testing various pads. I have not so far had any issue with not having clearance. Tried pushing in the caliper back in with any tool, before putting in the pads?
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Maybe too much oil in the system? Did you by any chance bleed your brakes with used brake pads?
I was able to push back the pistons with the calipers off the bike, but in general I find them a bit more finicky than the LTwoo calipers. The one benefit I found with the LTwoo calipers and adapter plates, is that they're a bit more easier to adjust and align. Plus I don't get stick pistons on long descents. Anyways, I might give the ZRace XG calipers another try later.
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I have been running eR9 with the Zrace XG caliper for the past >4000km and have been testing various pads. I have not so far had any issue with not having clearance. Tried pushing in the caliper back in with any tool, before putting in the pads?
I did push them back, but the XG calipers just seem a bit more stubborn to work with. I do think the LTwoo calipers a bit easier to adjust.
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I understand that now the front derailleur is automatically adjusted the same way as SRAM? Do you have a new update that introduces this possibility?
no it has now 3 steps. first step 1-5 gears, second step 6-9 gears. thirs step 10-12 . the position changes only with click on shifter
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I recently did a stint with Zrace XG brake calipers with my ER9, but when it was time to replace the pads while using aftermarket Shimano L05A finned pads, there was zero leeway for the rotors. I didn't want to bother sanding down the pads, so I ended up just going back to my LTwoo brake calipers. While I'm not too fond of the added weight especially with the adapter plates, they do seem more accommodating to fit aftermarket brake pads that tend to have thicker pad material. Plus I was having sticky piston issues with the Zrace calipers, so I figure I might as well swap back.
take allen tool (i think no2) and uncrew the screw which is inside of shifter.(inside of shifter front hole) space will open up for you
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take allen tool (i think no2) and uncrew the screw which is inside of shifter.(inside of shifter front hole) space will open up for you
I've been able pushed them back quite a bit. Also I have two sets of ZRace XG calipers. One is an older model and the other newer. I hadn't realized they added an additional bleed port screw at the top of the caliper. The older model only has 1 bleed port as opposed to 2.
Anyways I plan to put one of my ER9 bikes on weight reduction diet for climbing, so I might re-install the XG calipers again.
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Today I encountered some strange quirks with my ER9 groupset on my 2nd road bike. On two abrupt road bumps, my rear derailleur went to sleep. It took a few button presses on the RD to wake it back up. I'm wondering if could also be the batteries getting jarred in the holder causing the issue? I've tried recreating the problem at home by dropping the rear wheel a few times, but the issue only occurred on the road.
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Today I encountered some strange quirks with my ER9 groupset on my 2nd road bike. On two abrupt road bumps, my rear derailleur went to sleep. It took a few button presses on the RD to wake it back up. I'm wondering if could also be the batteries getting jarred in the holder causing the issue? I've tried recreating the problem at home by dropping the rear wheel a few times, but the issue only occurred on the road.
Welcome to the jungle :)
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Welcome to the jungle :)
Still cheaper than the new SRAM Red and 13 speed XPLR groupsets! I somewhat take pride in being an AliEx parts bin cyclist! ;D
Actually, I might have forgotten to charge the groupset after a 3 week hiatus! I’ll ride it again this week and see if the problem occurs. Plus it’s getting hot where I live, so I’m wondering if heat might be an issue.
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I had the bike on the back of the car the other day and drove through some biblical storms. I’m talking Noa‘s Arch kind of rainfall. The er9 stopped working. But it turned out that it was just the battery that was drained. It had only 6% left when I put it on the car and the constant vibrations must have activated the groupset during the whole ride? I dunno. Anyway, I charged it back up. All good again. But a bit of a panic moment, I must admit.
Mine has around 33.000 shifts now.
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Has anyone opened up the shifter and looked at the circuit board/taken pictures? I'm curious how hard it would be to add in sprint shifters.
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Has anyone opened up the shifter and looked at the circuit board/taken pictures? I'm curious how hard it would be to add in sprint shifters.
Definitely haven't, but this is the kind of shithousery I'm here for - please report back if you do.
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Definitely haven't, but this is the kind of shithousery I'm here for - please report back if you do.
;D ;D me too.
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For the last few months I've been running one of my ER9 bikes (1 of 2) with an externally routed RD battery cable. Today it bugged me enough to try and route the cable through the chain stay. Months ago, when I initially installed the groupset, there was any obstruction that would not let me put the cable through the RD chain stay. It appeared to be some sort of residue blockage.
I first tried forcing the battery cable through, but it ended up getting jammed and I had to pry it out. Unfortunately by forcing the cable out, I bent one of the gold pins on the cable head. I thought for sure I messed it up and would have to order a replacement. I took a minute to think and decided to try and fix the pin using tweezers and bend it back into place. Thankfully that worked and the pin was fixed. I still had to deal with the residue obstruction. I then thought about heating up a small screw driver and melting the residue. Luckily that tricked worked and I was able to get the battery cable through and properly route everything internally.
Seriously, working on these cheap bike parts is almost like a form of self-punishment! ::)
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I first tried forcing the battery cable through, but it ended up getting jammed and I had to pry it out. Unfortunately by forcing the cable out, I bent one of the gold pins on the cable head. I thought for sure I messed it up and would have to order a replacement.
Seriously, working on these cheap bike parts is almost like a form of self-punishment! ::)
When installing mine I came very, very close to slicing my cable in the threads of the bb shell. Thankfully I didn't, but it scared me enough to go ahead and order an extra cable and an extra battery charger while I was at it. No reason to wait 2 weeks with no shifting for something so silly when it was easy to order a backup now.
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For those of us in Australia, you can pick up 14500 batteries from Jaycar that do the trick perfectly with this groupset. Don't get the Bunnings ones, they won't work properly.
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Just a heads up. For those running bigger than 11-32t cassettes on the ER9/X, I found when in the big/big with my 12 speed 11-34t cassette, the chain will rub on the cage. I swapped the 12t jockey wheel for an 11t Ultegra jockey wheel and that seems to have fixed the rubbing. My other ER9 bike is running 52-36/11-32t and that setup has no rubbing in big/big with the stock 12t jockey wheel.
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Has anyone used the ERX or ER9 sets with a Shimano caliper?
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Shimano clamps work with the er9/erx set
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Has anyone opened up the shifter and looked at the circuit board/taken pictures? I'm curious how hard it would be to add in sprint shifters.
Pedaldancer on the forum has been gutting two broken er9 derailleurs, for posterity. Reach out.
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My e-gr battery is dropping about 10% per day without being ridden. I have put new batteries in but getting the same. Anyone else?
I have a replacement RD on the way for a different issue, so hoping that resolves it.
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My e-gr battery is dropping about 10% per day without being ridden. I have put new batteries in but getting the same. Anyone else?
I have a replacement RD on the way for a different issue, so hoping that resolves it.
I have an eGR. I went about a week without riding it and, when I checked it, I was at 93%. I don't know what it was charged to before that time, but it couldn't have dropped as much as you say per day. I haven't ridden it in almost a week since then, so I'll go check again and see where I'm at later today.
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Pedaldancer on the forum has been gutting two broken er9 derailleurs, for posterity. Reach out.
And I am still missing taking the microcope photos for you with the attached camera. :-X .. next week I must finish that task.
The PCB is multilayer style, i didn't count the layers but the layers were very good visible on the cutting edges... don't know how one can figure out the electronic layout.. besides the part which is visible on outer layer - there will be some inner routing for sure.
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so I've been pretty lucky on my er9 groupset as it's been working pretty flawlessly aside from that sticking shifter button that has since been fixed. But now for some reason, something is draining it's battery? Like it's not holding charge for too long? I just swapped the batteries too and seems like it's doing the same thing. Anyone had experience this?
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so I've been pretty lucky on my er9 groupset as it's been working pretty flawlessly aside from that sticking shifter button that has since been fixed. But now for some reason, something is draining it's battery? Like it's not holding charge for too long? I just swapped the batteries too and seems like it's doing the same thing. Anyone had experience this?
I found you might have to place the charging cable several times on the RD, before it will charge properly. Even if it gives the solid green light, leave the cable on 30 minutes longer. At least with my batteries, it's not giving me an accurate read. What might appear to be battery drain, might actually be under charged batteries.
I'm running 2 ER9 bikes right now, so it's been a good way to monitor any strange quirks between them.
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Same here. The magnetic charging plug needs solid contact with both the pin in the middle and the metal surface on the RD’s charging port. Otherwise it will drain the battery instead of charging it. The green light will flash regardless so you need to check the battery level. I just clean the RD charging port every time I have to charge. It hasn’t happened anymore since I’m making sure it’s clean.
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I found you might have to place the charging cable several times on the RD, before it will charge properly. Even if it gives the solid green light, leave the cable on 30 minutes longer. At least with my batteries, it's not giving me an accurate read. What might appear to be battery drain, might actually be under charged batteries.
I'm running 2 ER9 bikes right now, so it's been a good way to monitor any strange quirks between them.
Same here. The magnetic charging plug needs solid contact with both the pin in the middle and the metal surface on the RD’s charging port. Otherwise it will drain the battery instead of charging it. The green light will flash regardless so you need to check the battery level. I just clean the RD charging port every time I have to charge. It hasn’t happened anymore since I’m making sure it’s clean.
Mine gets to full charge as I check it after with the app and on my igpsport but then the power drains real quick. Like it will die overnight. It did happen after i was caught in a torrential storm though. Did not have any issues before that. Possible some things may have gotten wet and shorted out?
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So update on my battery issue. I have reached out to 80 Designer Store and responses have been pretty darn quick despite the timezone differences and also being a weekend. They responded with sending me a quick troubleshooting chart but i had already ruled out those things. Next response is that they're gonna "Discuss with engineer" (that's a direct quote) and get back to me next week.
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Did you check the plug connections on the FD and RD to make sure there’s no water residue in there? That could cause some sort of short circuit.
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Did you check the plug connections on the FD and RD to make sure there’s no water residue in there? That could cause some sort of short circuit.
Yup! Dry... so hopefully it gets warrantied somehow or it fixes itself somehow... Pretty bummed. Really wanted this to work and it has been for almost a year and then this...
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Yup! Dry... so hopefully it gets warrantied somehow or it fixes itself somehow... Pretty bummed. Really wanted this to work and it has been for almost a year and then this...
Did you do any preventative measure with the cables like dielectric grease or heat shrink plastic? I've yet to ride any of my ER9 bikes in wet weather and I don't plan to! ;D
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Did you do any preventative measure with the cables like dielectric grease or heat shrink plastic? I've yet to ride any of my ER9 bikes in wet weather and I don't plan to! ;D
no i didnt... just installed and rode it. I don't plan to ride in rain either and when it's shit weather i'm normally just stay indoors or grab my gravel bike as i hate cleaning bikes. Coming from California, it's been pretty easy to figure out but now that i'm in Virginia, it rains all the time and sometimes from out of nowhere like what happened to me and it sucks... so yea hopefully it gets figured out soon
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no i didnt... just installed and rode it. I don't plan to ride in rain either and when it's shit weather i'm normally just stay indoors or grab my gravel bike as i hate cleaning bikes. Coming from California, it's been pretty easy to figure out but now that i'm in Virginia, it rains all the time and sometimes from out of nowhere like what happened to me and it sucks... so yea hopefully it gets figured out soon
If there is an issue, I'm sure it's RD related. I would thoroughly dry the RD with a blow dryer or something and clean both the battery and charging ports. Maybe even let it sit for a few days.
If nothing works, hopefully the 80 Design store sends you a replacement RD. Since I bought one of my ER9's from them, I'd be curious how they handle customer service! I'm in SoCal and that was one of the reasons I took a chance with the groupset since I know most my weather will be dry. So far it's been flawless, but I still wouldn't chance it in the rain.
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If there is an issue, I'm sure it's RD related. I would thoroughly dry the RD with a blow dryer or something and clean both the battery and charging ports. Maybe even let it sit for a few days.
If nothing works, hopefully the 80 Design store sends you a replacement RD. Since I bought one of my ER9's from them, I'd be curious how they handle customer service! I'm in SoCal and that was one of the reasons I took a chance with the groupset since I know most my weather will be dry. So far it's been flawless, but I still wouldn't chance it in the rain.
I ended up using liquid electrical tape around the connector as a preventative measure. When I was on my road bike today, which has ultegra di2, I realised that I've done 45,000km on it without a single hiccup. I guess that's why you'd spend the extra money it.
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Not really an ER9/X issue, but the other day when doing a climb segment, I heard a loud pop and realized 3 of 4 rivets on my front derailleur hanger had popped off. It happened when I was shifting from the big to small chainring. It's the same issue that occurred with Trace Velo's Trifox X18 frameset. My TFSA frameset is using the same FD hanger with 4 rivets. My guess is that the extra weight/torque of the ER9 FD + chain catcher I'm using eventually wore out the rivets. Luckily I was able to ride back home. So I cleaned up the frame, added an adhesive back to the hanger and re-riveted it back in place. The new rivets are stainless steel and I opted not to epoxy the hanger onto the frame. From a few YT videos I saw, even epoxied FD hangers can break, tearing off part of the carbon.
Anyways, it's probably something to keep an eye on, especially if you're using an older frameset.
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This groupset is more expensive than Shimano 105 di2. Have no idea why anyone would buy it.
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This groupset is more expensive than Shimano 105 di2. Have no idea why anyone would buy it.
Not sure about pricing now. But er9 wasn't even remotely close to 105 Di2 when I bought it. I got the upgrade kit for 460EUR incl shipping and customs/taxes. Even if I had bought 105 Di2 with some used parts, I would have landed at +700EUR. That's why I gave it a chance.
With ERX it's a different story. I don't think the bits of cosmetic carbon fiber and miniscule weight difference justify the up in price.
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For all the issues I've had with the ER9 which I've documented on this thread, I've been able to resolve all of them. I would still buy the groupset based on price and features. I'm running 2 bikes with the ER9 and riding both of them several times a week. I paid less than $400 USD for each groupset. So far they're performing quite well.
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This groupset is more expensive than Shimano 105 di2. Have no idea why anyone would buy it.
i bought an erX 2 days ago, new, for 210 eur. from a dude on a french ebay-like website who thought he had bought a tablet because the box looked all fancy.
Given the rate at which the RDs have been dying on me, i figured it would get used :D
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i bought an erX 2 days ago, new, for 210 eur. from a dude on a french ebay-like website who thought he had bought a tablet because the box looked all fancy.
Given the rate at which the RDs have been dying on me, i figured it would get used :D
I admire your undying enthusiasm for this groupset :D
If I was in your shoes, I'd probably have tried to cram together a used Di2 groupset already.
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I admire your undying enthusiasm for this groupset :D
If I was in your shoes, I'd probably have tried to cram together a used Di2 groupset already.
I know :D
I'm a contrarian, i do contrarian things. Others would say i just like to fuck myself :)
My current view on ltwoo electronic is: when it's not broken, it's pretty great for the riding i do. I like that a new RD is c.150 eur. The only thing that's not been reliable & not good with all the bikes i've launched in the wild is the RD. So, i keep running the experiment.
Now, i wouldnt use this in the rain. to commute. on really bad roads. on a gravel bike. to race. if i can't fix my bike myself. if i want something reliable. if i want to make my life easier. And so on.
I'm about to build bikes for friends who live far away from me: i'm telling them to buy shimano :)
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Not sure about pricing now. But er9 wasn't even remotely close to 105 Di2 when I bought it. I got the upgrade kit for 460EUR incl shipping and customs/taxes. Even if I had bought 105 Di2 with some used parts, I would have landed at +700EUR. That's why I gave it a chance.
With ERX it's a different story. I don't think the bits of cosmetic carbon fiber and miniscule weight difference justify the up in price.
Once you consider full groupset pricing the 105 di2 is cheaper.
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Once you consider full groupset pricing the 105 di2 is cheaper.
Not where I live. Dunno about your domestic market. But a full 105 Di2 groupset is basically 1000EUR in Germany. er9, a ZTTO lightweight cassette, chain and crankset is somewhere between 6-700. Also, most of us probably have some stuff in the parts bin. I reused a Sram crankset I still had and used er9 with my existing 11sp components before upgrading to 12sp. Why would I buy a groupset with cranks and a cassette that I don’t want?
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Once you consider full groupset pricing the 105 di2 is cheaper.
not even close. Got my er9 with super lightweight 11spd casette, Ultegra chain, chainrings AND Magene 505 base powermeter for 725€ including postage, import taxes etc.
105 di2 WITHOUT powermeter is at 1090€ right now.
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seems like 105 di2 isn't on sale as often as it used to, but i'm pretty sure we've seen it under 800€ on ali. 856€ confirmed on bike-components.de in september 2023
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seems like 105 di2 isn't on sale as often as it used to, but i'm pretty sure we've seen it under 800€ on ali. 856€ confirmed on bike-components.de in september 2023
1090€ is from bike-components.de today
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SRAM and Shimano electronic has no appeal to me. Proprietary parts, fixed cassette speed and replacement components are still $$$. Cassette speed flexibility is a big selling point for me with LTwoo. Also I'm willing to overlook the slight annoyance of routing battery cables and battery holder in the seat post for easy to find replaceable batteries. Also I have to give credit to LTwoo, their app and gear fine-tuning is actually really good.
Even if someone gave me 105 or Ultegra Di2 for free, I'd probably just sell the groupset to a Rapha coffee ride dentist, pocket the difference and stick to LTwoo. Though I get it, some roadies want to impress impress their boyfriends at the Sunday group ride with name brand accessories. Nothing wrong with that! ;D
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... fixed cassette speed and replacement components are still $$$. Cassette speed flexibility is a big selling point for me with LTwoo. Also I'm willing to overlook the slight annoyance of routing battery cables and battery holder in the seat post for easy to find replaceable batteries. Also I have to give credit to LTwoo, their app and gear fine-tuning is actually really good.
Yes, I have to admit, a bit part of the appeal to me about the Chiner e-groupsets is that you can basically use any cassette of any size (within the limits) and absolutely go nuts and dial it all in electronically.
Obviously these groupsets need to work and last long enough to justify their cost, but assuming that bar is met, they represent not just tremendous value BUT ALSO tremendous capability! Again, they still need to work. So far my Ltwoo eGR has been flawless. I suppose it will continue to be flawless right up until the point that some flaws appear.
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If I could have gotten a full 105Di2 groupset for under 800quid. Sure. I probably would have and sold on what I wasn’t gonna use myself. At that price point, there’s not much reason to go with a largely unproven obscure Chinese groupset. Don’t get me wrong. I like my er9. And it’ll hopefully continue to work for a long time. But I’d expect the shifting performance of 105Di2 to be on another level. Especially if you pair it with the respective 105 cassette and cranks. Just saying.
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not even close. Got my er9 with super lightweight 11spd casette, Ultegra chain, chainrings AND Magene 505 base powermeter for 725€ including postage, import taxes etc.
105 di2 WITHOUT powermeter is at 1090€ right now.
I doubt it. Everyone exaggerates how little money they paid for their stuff on here.
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not even close. Got my er9 with super lightweight 11spd casette, Ultegra chain, chainrings AND Magene 505 base powermeter for 725€ including postage, import taxes etc.
105 di2 WITHOUT powermeter is at 1090€ right now.
You're also missing cranks, bottom bracket, and rotors that the di2 105 groupset will come with.
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SRAM and Shimano electronic has no appeal to me. Proprietary parts, fixed cassette speed and replacement components are still $$$. Cassette speed flexibility is a big selling point for me with LTwoo. Also I'm willing to overlook the slight annoyance of routing battery cables and battery holder in the seat post for easy to find replaceable batteries. Also I have to give credit to LTwoo, their app and gear fine-tuning is actually really good.
Even if someone gave me 105 or Ultegra Di2 for free, I'd probably just sell the groupset to a Rapha coffee ride dentist, pocket the difference and stick to LTwoo. Though I get it, some roadies want to impress impress their boyfriends at the Sunday group ride with name brand accessories. Nothing wrong with that! ;D
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SRAM and Shimano electronic has no appeal to me. Proprietary parts, fixed cassette speed and replacement components are still $$$. Cassette speed flexibility is a big selling point for me with LTwoo. Also I'm willing to overlook the slight annoyance of routing battery cables and battery holder in the seat post for easy to find replaceable batteries. Also I have to give credit to LTwoo, their app and gear fine-tuning is actually really good.
Even if someone gave me 105 or Ultegra Di2 for free, I'd probably just sell the groupset to a Rapha coffee ride dentist, pocket the difference and stick to LTwoo. Though I get it, some roadies want to impress impress their boyfriends at the Sunday group ride with name brand accessories. Nothing wrong with that! ;D
Sure you would....
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I doubt it. Everyone exaggerates how little money they paid for their stuff on here.
I get it, some people don't have the mental capacity to understand how sales work!
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Did you do any preventative measure with the cables like dielectric grease or heat shrink plastic? I've yet to ride any of my ER9 bikes in wet weather and I don't plan to! ;D
Such a great deal but can't even get it wet. Meanwhile I routinely blast my 1st gen di2 with a hose while cleaning my bike.
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Such a great deal but can't even get it wet. Meanwhile I routinely blast my 1st gen di2 with a hose while cleaning my bike.
Sounds like you enjoy hosing your bike often. Just remember blasting it too often can lead to temporary blindness! ;D
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You're also missing cranks, bottom bracket, and rotors that the di2 105 groupset will come with.
nope. https://www.bike-components.de/de/Shimano/105-Di2-R7150-Gruppe-2x12-34-50-p88663/ look it up. There are no rotors, no bb and not even the wireing for the battery included.
725€ is already with cranks because they are part of the magene power meter. So on top 10€ for a bb and 60€ for some Shimano RT-MT800 which sums up to shy of 800€. The complete di2 with all of that then jumps to around 1200€, still without powermeter.
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nope. https://www.bike-components.de/de/Shimano/105-Di2-R7150-Gruppe-2x12-34-50-p88663/ look it up. There are no rotors, no bb and not even the wireing for the battery included.
725€ is already with cranks because they are part of the magene power meter. So on top 10€ for a bb and 60€ for some Shimano RT-MT800 which sums up to shy of 800€. The complete di2 with all of that then jumps to around 1200€, still without powermeter.
The Magene PES power meter crankset is over $300. Your numbers don't add up correctly. You are either lying or not adding things up correctly.
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I get it, erallen30 is fast. I'm guessing he holds the KOM around the suburban business park during weekend coffee rides. Plus his 105 Di2 is superior with Toyota Prius-like performance. I need to figure out how to hose my bike with more frequency! This kind of insight can only come from someone who wears white socks and white shoes!
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The Magene PES power meter crankset is over $300. Your numbers don't add up correctly. You are either lying or not adding things up correctly.
What kind of lube do you use when you're hosing your 105 Di2? You seem like the kind of cyclist who likes dry all the way!
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What kind of lube do you use when you're hosing your 105 Di2? You seem like the kind of cyclist who likes dry all the way!
No need to get defensive. Just do actual objective analyses of the values of your products.
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The Magene PES power meter crankset is over $300. Your numbers don't add up correctly. You are either lying or not adding things up correctly.
yes you got me. liar all the way… or maybe you are too stupid to go to the aliexpress checkout where the price ist shown that your really have to pay. no one knows… ::)
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No need to get defensive. Just do actual objective analyses of the values of your products.
You’re right dude, it’s all about objective analysis. Some people need that 105 di2 36t max cog due to feeble climbing ability. I’m sure you need that big cassette to make up for your small chainring!
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Anyone know if this groupset supports satellite shifters?
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Anyone know if this groupset supports satellite shifters?
Besides being leg deficient with short cranks are your arms also deficient in reaching the shifters? I suggest a short stem. It will help reach those 105 Di2 shifters with your child sized hands.
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Besides being leg deficient with short cranks are your arms also deficient in reaching the shifters? I suggest a short stem. It will help reach those 105 Di2 shifters with your child sized hands.
In my opinion the best part of electronic shifting is being able to install satellite shifters on the drops. Otherwise I'd just go with cheaper mechanical.
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Besides being leg deficient with short cranks are your arms also deficient in reaching the shifters? I suggest a short stem. It will help reach those 105 Di2 shifters with your child sized hands.
No need to get super personal. I think he just likes to troll. No ones keeping you from buying 105Di2 for whatever price you may get @erallen30. But AFAIK you can’t use satellite shifters with that either. That’s only possible with Ultegra and Dura Ace.
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On a different note: Turns out my criticism towards the shifting performance of my er9 was unjustified. At first I thought the ZTTO monobloc cassette was to blame. But the groupset behaved the same way on the turbo with a different cassette. But it appears that the chain was to blame. As I wrote in a different thread: I gave the ZTTO chain a try because I was impressed by the quality of their other stuff. I bought the gold chain with hollow links and pins for somewhere around 25EUR. Super cheap and super light, Turns out this chain has all the style but zero substance. It's worn after only 4000k - and that's with hot waxing. I've never worn through any chain that fast.
So I took it off and decided to put on a Campy Super Record 12sp chain, because it was heavily discounted. I got a Chorus chain on my other bike which works very smoothly and it shows barely any sign of wear after 6-7000km. WHAT A DIFFERENCE: Before, I could never set the RD up perfectly. There would always be the occasional crunchy shift. The shifting now is smoother and a lot quieter without touching anything. Just by switching out the chain. I might have to fine tune one or two gears. But it's a night and day difference, especially when shifting into a harder gear. The chain just drops effortlessly onto the next smaller cog.
I'm now actually a lot more impressed by this groupset than I was initially. This feels very nice indeed.
And I'll definitely steer clear from ZTTO chains for the time being.
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btw campy chains are just YBN chains
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Ahh. Is there a source for that claim?
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My 11 speed ER9 setup is running an Ultegra cassette and chain. Shifts like butter.
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No need to get super personal. I think he just likes to troll. No ones keeping you from buying 105Di2 for whatever price you may get @erallen30. But AFAIK you can’t use satellite shifters with that either. That’s only possible with Ultegra and Dura Ace.
Too many soy boys in the road cycling scene. Deserves to get called out for low-level thought processes.
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btw campy chains are just YBN chains
Pretty sure they claimed that their chains are still made in the European Union (Italy and Romania) when they launched 12sp. The lower level stuff like the Centaur rim brake groupset and some parts of the Ekar groupset are made in Taiwan. It says so on the packaging. At least on all the packaging that I held in hand. But there’s absolutely nothing wrong with YBN chains.
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Topic batteries for eRX / eR9 / eGR
I bought both of my eR9 and eGR groups without batteries and source them:
1. From local source in Europe: 2x Xtar 14500 (AA) 3.7V 800mAh /
2. From AliX China: Doublepow 14500 AA 3.7V Lithium Battery 800mAh / https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006240603318.html
Observation after using both groups over the past months and 1000km+:
1. The locally sourced batteries hold charge well, so I need to recharge about once a month
2. The Chinese sourced batteries deplete quickly, so I need to recharge once per week.
So in summary, make sure to buy quality 14500 Lithium batteries instead of going cheap.
Any other experiences?
BR Chris
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80 Designer Store warranty update. Responses were pretty quick and they had to talk to LTwoo as well but yea they're sending me a new rear derailleur. They gave me a link to make a new order through their store for $15 which is probably for shipping and processing or whatever but yea looks like i'll be getting a new derailleur sent over
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Topic batteries for eRX / eR9 / eGR
Bought some batteries branded DLG from AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005871463985.html They have held up very well for the past two months.
I charged them before a ride recently, and after 56 front shifts and 586 rear shifts, the app still showed 100% charge.
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My e-gr battery is dropping about 10% per day without being ridden. I have put new batteries in but getting the same. Anyone else?
I have a replacement RD on the way for a different issue, so hoping that resolves it.
I haven't been using this bike as much this month, maybe ridden it once or twice just around the block with the kiddos. Since the beginning of august I haven't charged my eGR. It's been almost a month and my battery is down to approx. 75%.
I am using Xtar 800mAh batteries I ordered from a US based flashlight and vape battery supplier. I've been very happy with how they've been performing.
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I have some DLG batteries on order from AliX, will swap them and report if this solves the problem.
Quite sure it will. ;-)
Thank you for your answers.
BR Chris
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regarding batteries, do not go cheap and buy local!
look for high c-discharge rates..usually cells which are used for vaps are good, as they need to cope with high , short discharge rates , too..
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What support channel have you used please?
Didn't see all the questions until now! I bought from 80 Designer Store which has been super responsive. We got an erx first, had the issue wish they asked for a video of my mech not operating and then sent the new mech straight away no argument. I've gotten a few other things from then since bit haven't had any new issues with the erx or anything else. My erx is still perfect, just rode through a very wet ride here in PEI today with no issues at all. Haven't had to make any adjustments and there's only been one firmware update so I think whatever caused the failure before seems to have been hardware related and not recurred or fw related. It's the "old" version, not the 2024 one. I am running a 12 spd 11-36 Shimano cassette with it and no issues with capacity. I do wish I knew if it worked with the EGR mech as I'd love to run a 40 or 42 with a double as I can with the now NLA Ultegra RX groupset.
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80 Designer Store warranty update. Responses were pretty quick and they had to talk to LTwoo as well but yea they're sending me a new rear derailleur. They gave me a link to make a new order through their store for $15 which is probably for shipping and processing or whatever but yea looks like i'll be getting a new derailleur sent over
This was my (positive) experience with the same store
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1090€ is from bike-components.de today
Anyone selling 105 di2 for 500 is either doing something illegal or not complying with their Shimano agreement as that is way below OEM cost (I'm a manufacturer and only sell legit Shimano stiff, we couldn't touch that number even selling at a loss).
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I'm not sure the reason, but I would guess neither of those reasons. Maybe some other design decision, though. The Ltwoo eGR has mega spring tension. It's impressive how stable and taught the RD keeps the chain. The eGR doesn't have a clutch, but it retains the chain WAY better than my Advent X 1x10 that did have a clutch.
You haven't, by any chance, seem of the ERX brifters will control the EGR rear mech? I am using an 11-36 with the erx but would love to bump the rear cassette up a bit.
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Yeah, I can check it next time I'm out in the garage, headed out to dinner currently!
Any luck with testing the erx/EGR cross compatibility?
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Another update... swapped finally swapped out the warrantied derailleur and everything is running as it should be. Also a buddy of mine just got a Canyon Ultimate that came with 105 di2. 12 miles in and his right shifter button was sticking just like my er9 did. So yea there ya go. Happens to Shimano too :P But yea, would really like to applaud 80 Designer store. Responses were ridiculously quick, everything was taken cared of and a replacement was shipped out in no time
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This was my (positive) experience with the same store
Also had good customer service experience with 80 designer store sorting a broken GR9 shifter.
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I replaced my cheap ZRACE chainrings with a new set of Ultegra chainrings that I bought 2nd hand. I was never fully satisfied with how the FD performed. Now it's much better. Still not particularly quiet and it could still be smoother. But very reliable.
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what happened to the blue edition? it disappeared. we don't hear anything about it anymore.
do you have any news?
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The "blue edition" was a prototype of the 2.0 that was replaced almost instantly and they've done like 3 iterations since the one they had on bike shows. Just not selling anything yet.
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Also had good customer service experience with 80 designer store sorting a broken GR9 shifter.
Hi, how was the response time from 80 Designer Shop. I have raised an issue with a dead EGR, they quickly replied with standard checklist to check and then silence and no answers in a couple of days. Did you also experience long response time.
Thanks,
Christian
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I'm working on getting the fd tuned properly. When I'm using the adjustment button it seems to move in and out instead of just one direction. Does anyone have any tips? Should I be in the first click of going up to the big ring, or the second click trim position?
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I'm working on getting the fd tuned properly. When I'm using the adjustment button it seems to move in and out instead of just one direction. Does anyone have any tips? Should I be in the first click of going up to the big ring, or the second click trim position?
Adjust for the 1st click. I only use the second click to adjust when in the big or small cassette cogs. The first click should already be free of FD rubbing. Plus the app doesn't allow for trim fine-tuning directly from the app, trim only happens manually when pressing the left shift button.
I wish LTwoo would implement some new features, but I'm sure Shimano and SRAM have some software patents that keep them limited on features. Either that or they don't have the software budget to do so. I also notice Wheeltop is getting more OEM groupset sales, whereas I don't see any bikes in Asia getting LTwoo electronic.
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Adjust for the 1st click. I only use the second click to adjust when in the big or small cassette cogs. The first click should already be free of FD rubbing. Plus the app doesn't allow for trim fine-tuning directly from the app, trim only happens manually when pressing the left shift button.
Do you have the issue where the adjustment seems to not move continuously in one direction? That's the other thing that's making it hard
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Hi, how was the response time from 80 Designer Shop. I have raised an issue with a dead EGR, they quickly replied with standard checklist to check and then silence and no answers in a couple of days. Did you also experience long response time.
Thanks,
Christian
response time was pretty quick... I got the standard checklist too but told them I went through all of that already and told them it started happening after some crazy rain. They got back to me in hours saying they'll contact Ltwoo. In about a week they sent me a new custom order for $15 for shipping and in two days, my new derailleur was shipped
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Okay, sounds pretty reasonable. They did revert yesterday and asked for a video, so that is send and I assume they share with Ltwoo and then send me a replacement. Thanks for letting me know.
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Do you have the issue where the adjustment seems to not move continuously in one direction? That's the other thing that's making it hard
If that happens, try adjusting the front derailleur physically on the hanger if it's still rubbing. The FD fine tuning can only adjust so much, you still need to align the actual FD properly. I sometimes find it better to adjust the FD while the bike is flipped over because you can see the FD and chain line much better.
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a little update...
we have claimed a burned battery tray at ltwoo, which was bought directly...the tray burned while charging normally....
Ltwoo wanted pictures, which were sent..
Now, they want a video...we have asked in detail what the video needs to show..
Our customer is now not able to ride.
It seems that they have no intention to help us, but also do not shut the door completey...
This becomse more and more a circus..
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a little update...
we have claimed a burned battery tray at ltwoo, which was bought directly...the tray burned while charging normally....
Ltwoo wanted pictures, which were sent..
Now, they want a video...we have asked in detail what the video needs to show..
Our customer is now not able to ride.
It seems that they have no intention to help us, but also do not shut the door completey...
This becomse more and more a circus..
I think it's a tactic that sellers use in the hope you will eventually give up. This was what OG-Evkin did when I tried to get warranty on my MTB frame with crooked BB shell. They keep asking and keep promising for months and in the end you end up with nothing but a lot of frustration.
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Hi, how was the response time from 80 Designer Shop. I have raised an issue with a dead EGR, they quickly replied with standard checklist to check and then silence and no answers in a couple of days. Did you also experience long response time.
Thanks,
Christian
Once I showed them a video of the shifter not working there was a few days of silence, then they responded that the new shifter was sent. Gave me a tracking number and it arrived in about a week.
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I think it's a tactic that sellers use in the hope you will eventually give up. This was what OG-Evkin did when I tried to get warranty on my MTB frame with crooked BB shell. They keep asking and keep promising for months and in the end you end up with nothing but a lot of frustration.
That's 100% what LTWOO did with me. After literally months of slow back and forth, where every time the goal post kept changing, i gave up. in the middle there was my reseller being ghosted by ltwoo and having to contact someone else at ltwoo. they essentially do their best to be unhelpful.
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That's 100% what LTWOO did with me. After literally months of slow back and forth, where every time the goal post kept changing, i gave up. in the middle there was my reseller being ghosted by ltwoo and having to contact someone else at ltwoo. they essentially do their best to be unhelpful.
Well, i defenately will not give up...
and i am not afraid to make a youtube video about our experiences with LTWOO business tactic.
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Had to replace the coin cell in my FD shift lever after roughly 35.000 shifts. The indicator light on the inside of the brake lever started flashing red. The weird thing is that I rarely shift the front and the rear shifter is still flashing green despite seeing much more use. I guess the coin cells are just not the best quality. I replaced it and it's good to go. No repairing necessary.
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That's 100% what LTWOO did with me. After literally months of slow back and forth, where every time the goal post kept changing, i gave up. in the middle there was my reseller being ghosted by ltwoo and having to contact someone else at ltwoo. they essentially do their best to be unhelpful.
and be careful because paypal is not helping anymore on this. Latest experience with paypal have been very bad, a waste of money. Probably aliexpress is more safe now.
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and be careful because paypal is not helping anymore on this. Latest experience with paypal have been very bad, a waste of money. Probably aliexpress is more safe now.
Is credit card any better at helping with disputes?
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So I went and impulse bought some Zrace XG calipers for my Ltwoo ER9 groupset. Was wondering since the pistons are both 22mm but the Ltwoo ones are ceramic and Zrace is aluminum... has anyone here swapped them to see if they're interchangeable? Lol
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So I went and impulse bought some Zrace XG calipers for my Ltwoo ER9 groupset. Was wondering since the pistons are both 22mm but the Ltwoo ones are ceramic and Zrace is aluminum... has anyone here swapped them to see if they're interchangeable? Lol
I switched back to GRX calipers mainly because I found the XG pistons tend to be sticky after long descents. They could be better if they were fitted with ceramic pistons.
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I switched back to GRX calipers mainly because I found the XG pistons tend to be sticky after long descents. They could be better if they were fitted with ceramic pistons.
Good to know... yea the zrace were an impulse buy as they were like $55 shipped for a pair... Sounds like possibly the aluminum zrace pistons expanding under high heat? I might try and retrofit the ltwoo pistons in there and see if that works if i dont like them haha|
Or maybe i could try something like this
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803315987372.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en3256803315987372&ds_e_product_merchant_id=515767637&ds_e_product_country=US&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=19678427463&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgL-3BhDnARIsAL6KZ6_JUimFvSK-X2ZniA-N7pvCAOrqeBIjpb7JOGu-Pv-qGcLTqcEHKAwaAkznEALw_wcB&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
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Good to know... yea the zrace were an impulse buy as they were like $55 shipped for a pair... Sounds like possibly the aluminum zrace pistons expanding under high heat? I might try and retrofit the ltwoo pistons in there and see if that works if i dont like them haha|
Or maybe i could try something like this
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803315987372.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en3256803315987372&ds_e_product_merchant_id=515767637&ds_e_product_country=US&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=19678427463&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgL-3BhDnARIsAL6KZ6_JUimFvSK-X2ZniA-N7pvCAOrqeBIjpb7JOGu-Pv-qGcLTqcEHKAwaAkznEALw_wcB&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
That could be a cheap solution if they use the same size piston. Have you measured the zrace ones?
If its a tolerance issue with zrace, then they probably won't solve the problem. I just ordered some grx400 calipers for $33 from ali to replace my ltwoo calipers. Couldn't resist at that price.
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That could be a cheap solution if they use the same size piston. Have you measured the zrace ones?
If its a tolerance issue with zrace, then they probably won't solve the problem. I just ordered some grx400 calipers for $33 from ali to replace my ltwoo calipers. Couldn't resist at that price.
Trace Velo measured and said they were both 22mm? But i'm not sure... I'm probably going to run the stock ones for a bit when mine get here and then if i'm not happy with them do the swap. I also noticed Lewis uses Ti pistons which is interesting! Never seen that before
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Pair of GRX 400 calipers:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807394938962.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807394938962.html)
These GRX 400 calipers cost almost as much as the Zrace XG calipers. Weight-wise GRX calipers weigh less than both Ultegra and 105 and there's no difference between GRX 400/600/800 other than appearance. I confirmed with the seller this comes as a pair. I have a set of these on my gravel bike and on long descents the pistons don't get sticky and they're Shimano quality.
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So I went and impulse bought some Zrace XG calipers for my Ltwoo ER9 groupset. Was wondering since the pistons are both 22mm but the Ltwoo ones are ceramic and Zrace is aluminum... has anyone here swapped them to see if they're interchangeable? Lol
Yes, they use the same piston i.e. 22mm. In fact, I replaced my first two Zrace XG pistons with ceramics ones I bought from AE. Unfortunately, one of the two XGs I had started leaking from around the piston. I don't have much time to tinker around, so I replaced that with a new updated XG, which I bought for $22 using discount and coins. By the way, the new XG calipers comes with what looks to be ceramic piston. They are no longer Aluminum. Overall, I think the new updated XG calipers are much improved. This includes longer portion where we thread in the olive, supposedly to avoid having the channel blocked by olives or the hose. This was highlighted in TraceVelo video. Will give XG another chance before moving back to Shimano. Trying for a werightweenie build, so >50gr saving is tempting. Also, for the kind of riding I do, XG is plenty powerful already and have worked well for the past ~7000km for me.
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So I went and impulse bought some Zrace XG calipers for my Ltwoo ER9 groupset. Was wondering since the pistons are both 22mm but the Ltwoo ones are ceramic and Zrace is aluminum... has anyone here swapped them to see if they're interchangeable? Lol
I just got a set for my first hydro build... would not recommend. Got a pair, one seems to have a sticky piston. Dont wanna bother with rebuilding or w/e, I just ordered Ultegra.
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There's no way to switch which button is up and which is down on a given side, right? When sprinting I'm struggling to hit the rear button on the right to get a harder gear.
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There's no way to switch which button is up and which is down on a given side, right? When sprinting I'm struggling to hit the rear button on the right to get a harder gear.
AFAIK there isnt except for the front derailleur where you cans wap it to be a single button shift
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You can adjust lever position to move it closer to the drops. Especially if you can't reach the buttons.
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I wish the buttons were customisable. Being able to do that is kind of the point of going electronic. I wonder why they’re not. Patent reasons or did LTWOO just not bother. I’d love to set the shift buttons up Sram style.
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The issue is I can too easily reach the further shift button so when I'm sprinting my finger rests on the shift button for going easier. Not ideal haha
Maybe I'll shoot them an email about configurable buttons
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Finally happened. My 2nd ER9 RD died on me during a ride. My 1st ER9 groupset is working great, but this 2nd one just stopped. FD works fine, shifters seem to be working and battery holder/cables haven't been compromised. Plus I don't ride in the rain, so it's definitely a bad RD and not a water ingress issue. I just contacted the 80 Design Store to see if I can get a replacement unit. Hopefully they live up to their customer service reputation!
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Finally happened. My 2nd ER9 RD died on me during a ride. My 1st ER9 groupset is working great, but this 2nd one just stopped. FD works fine, shifters seem to be working and battery holder/cables haven't been compromised. Plus I don't ride in the rain, so it's definitely a bad RD and not a water ingress issue. I just contacted the 80 Design Store to see if I can get a replacement unit. Hopefully they live up to their customer service reputation!
Ouch! Hopefully 80 Design Store will sort you out quickly!
Just wondering, you mentioned that FD is still fine. Does it still shift with dead RD? Could it be that RD is somehow stuck mechanically? I remember seeing TraceVelo had this issue on his eGR, I think!?
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Ouch! Hopefully 80 Design Store will sort you out quickly!
Just wondering, you mentioned that FD is still fine. Does it still shift with dead RD? Could it be that RD is somehow stuck mechanically? I remember seeing TraceVelo had this issue on his eGR, I think!?
It doesn't seem like a mechanical issue. Whenever I try to upshift, it just flashes a red light. The FD shifts fine. I tried several hard resets, swapped batteries and switched the plugs around. My other ER9 bike is running like a champ. Thankfully I have several bikes in case one goes down!
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Flashing the red light means it thinks it's at the end of its travel when it's working. Could it be that the end stop is being depressed because some stuff slipped?
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It doesn't seem like a mechanical issue. Whenever I try to upshift, it just flashes a red light. The FD shifts fine. I tried several hard resets, swapped batteries and switched the plugs around. My other ER9 bike is running like a champ. Thankfully I have several bikes in case one goes down!
hihihi, welcome to the club. I wish i had good news.
My 3 dead RDs would make a weird noise and refuse to upshift, and i was never offered solutions. I managed to get 2 warranty replaced, and not the 3rd one, at which point i gave up and made plans to buy them new. One of my friends bought a spare RD for 150 eur on AliX as insurance policy, so he can keep riding if his RD dies. His and mine are the only that havent died from the batch of 5 we ordered last year.
I'm still riding with mine, i've put almost 9k km on it. The charging port is half broken because it's a bad design (worst case i charge the batteries in a dedicated lithium charger which i already have), but other than that, the group works super well, so assuming i can source groups at a good price (c.400 usd for shifters & FD/RD + brakes), then what i plan to do is order than AND a spare RD, because in the west, 150 EUR is basically a visit to the bike shop, so it's a good insurance policy.
That logic quickly breaks down if the price of the group goes up.
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Flashing the red light means it thinks it's at the end of its travel when it's working. Could it be that the end stop is being depressed because some stuff slipped?
It's pretty much stuck now at the lowest gear. It just won't shift. I might tinker with it some more to see if I can get it to wake up, but it just makes a click sound, but nothing is happening.
hihihi, welcome to the club. I wish i had good news.
My 3 dead RDs would make a weird noise and refuse to upshift, and i was never offered solutions. I managed to get 2 warranty replaced, and not the 3rd one, at which point i gave up and made plans to buy them new. One of my friends bought a spare RD for 150 eur on AliX as insurance policy, so he can keep riding if his RD dies. His and mine are the only that havent died from the batch of 5 we ordered last year.
I'm still riding with mine, i've put almost 9k km on it. The charging port is half broken because it's a bad design (worst case i charge the batteries in a dedicated lithium charger which i already have), but other than that, the group works super well, so assuming i can source groups at a good price (c.400 usd for shifters & FD/RD + brakes), then what i plan to do is order than AND a spare RD, because in the west, 150 EUR is basically a visit to the bike shop, so it's a good insurance policy.
That logic quickly breaks down if the price of the group goes up.
The 80 Design Store messaged me. Unfortunately (for me), it's National Day in China and it's a week long holiday starting Oct 1st. They'll get back to me next week. As long as I can get a warranty replacement, I'll be fine.
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It's pretty much stuck now at the lowest gear. It just won't shift. I might tinker with it some more to see if I can get it to wake up, but it just makes a click sound, but nothing is happening.
The 80 Design Store messaged me. Unfortunately (for me), it's National Day in China and it's a week long holiday starting Oct 1st. They'll get back to me next week. As long as I can get a warranty replacement, I'll be fine.
Could it be the shifter button getting stuck? Like I had an issue where the spring wasn't strong enough to push the buttons back out. It was like two Phillips screws, take the buttons out, stretch out the springs and put them back together and my problems were solved
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So I went and impulse bought some Zrace XG calipers for my Ltwoo ER9 groupset. Was wondering since the pistons are both 22mm but the Ltwoo ones are ceramic and Zrace is aluminum... has anyone here swapped them to see if they're interchangeable? Lol
Got the Zrace calipers in and put them on. I think this is like a 3rd gen? Unlike Tracevelo who has two separate ports where the hose goes into and Fiveminutevelo where the there is one main port and one half port for the second piston... Mine only has one port so they've machined it differently and now the fluid gets distributed to both pistons after the ONE port from the hose. Pistons are still the same black alloy ones. I haven't had a chance to bed in the pads and ride them yet so we'll see but initial impressions is that they are feel better than the stock Ltwoo calipers with the lever feel. Overall looks to be pretty well made and really looking forward to giving this a go!
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Got the Zrace calipers in and put them on. I think this is like a 3rd gen? Unlike Tracevelo who has two separate ports where the hose goes into and Fiveminutevelo where the there is one main port and one half port for the second piston... Mine only has one port so they've machined it differently and now the fluid gets distributed to both pistons after the ONE port from the hose. Pistons are still the same black alloy ones. I haven't had a chance to bed in the pads and ride them yet so we'll see but initial impressions is that they are feel better than the stock Ltwoo calipers with the lever feel. Overall looks to be pretty well made and really looking forward to giving this a go!
FYI - Looks like you're running 140mm disc in the rear? If you are, be careful with tightening the caliper bolts. The alloy screw holes is very soft on the ZRace XG calipers and can possibly strip.
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Could it be the shifter button getting stuck? Like I had an issue where the spring wasn't strong enough to push the buttons back out. It was like two Phillips screws, take the buttons out, stretch out the springs and put them back together and my problems were solved
Nope, shift buttons click just fine. It's definitely the RD that's not responding. I'm just going to wait for the 80 Design Store to respond and hopefully get a replacement.
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FYI - Looks like you're running 140mm disc in the rear? If you are, be careful with tightening the caliper bolts. The alloy screw holes is very soft on the ZRace XG calipers and can possibly strip.
Good to know... thanks for the headsup!
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Good news. I was able to wake up my ER9 RD after repeated hard resets pressing the RD button. I restored the RD back to factory default and re-indexed the gears. Though I'm a bit paranoid riding it again. I'm considering ordering new batteries, but I'm using the same batteries on my other ER9 bike with no issues. So I'm wondering if this RD is just a bit wonky? I think I'll still ask the 80 Design Store for a replacement. It's too risky to use the RD if it's prone to dying mid-ride, though there's no guarantee the new RD will be any better.
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I decided to order some new batteries from Nitecore. They do have US warranty service for their batteries and they appear to be well-built. They're a bit more spendy than what you'd find on Ebay, but hopefully this should at least eliminate any potential battery issues with the ER9.
https://nitecorestore.com/collections/batteries?sort_by=best-selling&filter.p.m.battery_info.battery_size=14500 (https://nitecorestore.com/collections/batteries?sort_by=best-selling&filter.p.m.battery_info.battery_size=14500)
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I decided to order some new batteries from Nitecore. They do have US warranty service for their batteries and they appear to be well-built. They're a bit more spendy than what you'd find on Ebay, but hopefully this should at least eliminate any potential battery issues with the ER9.
https://nitecorestore.com/collections/batteries?sort_by=best-selling&filter.p.m.battery_info.battery_size=14500 (https://nitecorestore.com/collections/batteries?sort_by=best-selling&filter.p.m.battery_info.battery_size=14500)
Just don't get any with the usb-c charging feature. (1) I can't see any benefit in this use case, (2) I could theoretically see some potential issues.
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I decided to order some new batteries from Nitecore. They do have US warranty service for their batteries and they appear to be well-built. They're a bit more spendy than what you'd find on Ebay, but hopefully this should at least eliminate any potential battery issues with the ER9.
https://nitecorestore.com/collections/batteries?sort_by=best-selling&filter.p.m.battery_info.battery_size=14500 (https://nitecorestore.com/collections/batteries?sort_by=best-selling&filter.p.m.battery_info.battery_size=14500)
well it depends, if they are able to handle high discharge rates, go for it, but 3 Amps is not really high discharge.
I once again recommend batteries for vapours, they usually need high discharge capabilities......
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well it depends, if they are able to handle high discharge rates, go for it, but 3 Amps is not really high discharge.
I once again recommend batteries for vapours, they usually need high discharge capabilities......
Come on now, have you modeled anything you say? have you calculated the amps that high discharge vape cells that are meant to work for mere minutes crank out vs the current draw of these derailleurs that are meant to work for thousands, thousands, thousands, and many thousands more actuations?
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Just don't get any with the usb-c charging feature. (1) I can't see any benefit in this use case, (2) I could theoretically see some potential issues.
I just bought their regular (non-USB) 14500 battery with 1000mah. Their 850mah batteries were sold out and I figure I might as well spend extra over the 650mah battery. Nitecore batteries have a 1 year US warranty if they crap out. I'll report back on their performance when I get them.
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Come on now, have you modeled anything you say? have you calculated the amps that high discharge vape cells that are meant to work for mere minutes crank out vs the current draw of these derailleurs that are meant to work for thousands, thousands, thousands, and many thousands more actuations?
I have built up the distribution for Kokam Lithium polymer cells in Europe (and did a project with their cells for bmw in formula one), over a decade ago, have develope a 350mAh cell which is capable of discharge rates up to 20 c...so i am in the business since it started.
Ltwoo had massive problems with their aftermarket mtb shifting set, which pulls the shiftingcable.., they did not even understand why voltage drops und higher loads and comes back after the shift was done...
I just wanted to help and having a 1000mah battery only being able to work 3 Amps, which is 3 C will probably end up in chaos...especially if its getting colder...internal resistance, you know....
No, i have not measure current draw for this system, as i do not have anymore left, we are happy to have sold those crappy products and i am not willing to do the work for ltwoo...the crappy pcb, which does not securely protect the battery housing from shortening is another sign of their engineering skills.
Vapecells provide currents up to 10 or 15c without showing significant voltage drops...so they wont go bad fast because of cell chemistry being hurt with too high discharge rates..it was just a recommandation to be on the safe side....
There are many discharge curves available here:
https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Vapcell%20INR18350%201100mAh%20(Purple)%20UK.html
Basically, feel free to buy or use whatever you want...i will hold back my posts in this thread
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I decided to order some new batteries from Nitecore. They do have US warranty service for their batteries and they appear to be well-built. They're a bit more spendy than what you'd find on Ebay, but hopefully this should at least eliminate any potential battery issues with the ER9.
https://nitecorestore.com/collections/batteries?sort_by=best-selling&filter.p.m.battery_info.battery_size=14500 (https://nitecorestore.com/collections/batteries?sort_by=best-selling&filter.p.m.battery_info.battery_size=14500)
I received the Nitecore batteries only to find out they're about 5mm too long. I should have double checked the specs, but here's me presuming 14500 batteries should all be the same. Might as well designate the battery something else if they're physically bigger.
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Woohoo! 80 Design Store replied back and they are sending me a replacement ER9 rear derailleur! It's definitely worth paying a little extra to get customer support from them on products. They've definitely earned my future business.
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Woohoo! 80 Design Store replied back and they are sending me a replacement ER9 rear derailleur! It's definitely worth paying a little extra to get customer support from them on products. They've definitely earned my future business.
Once again they deliver, put your hands up for 80 designer store our lovely supplier ;D ;D
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Woohoo! 80 Design Store replied back and they are sending me a replacement ER9 rear derailleur! It's definitely worth paying a little extra to get customer support from them on products. They've definitely earned my future business.
Great news indeed! that's how long after you bought it from them?
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Great news indeed! that's how long after you bought it from them?
This unit was purchased in June 2024 and is my 2nd ER9. This RD has been exhibiting a bit of strange behavior since I installed it. I suspect the motion sensor to wake it from sleep is slightly off and possibly has abnormal battery drain. Since I have my 1st ER9 bike as a comparison in performance, I've been able to notice differences.
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Woohoo! 80 Design Store replied back and they are sending me a replacement ER9 rear derailleur! It's definitely worth paying a little extra to get customer support from them on products. They've definitely earned my future business.
Hell yeah... I definitely check their store when Im looking for stuff nowadays before going anywhere else!
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So, after roughly 40.000 shifts of flawless performance, my groupset is finally showing issues: I'm experiencing battery drain. I came home from a vacation trip and the bike was stored on the wall for a week. The RD was dead because the battery was fully drained. I recharged it to 100%, went out on a 90min ride and it was down to 82%. After leaving the bike for another day it's now at 59%.
Has anybody with these kinds of issues found a cause and/or solution? The batteries have given me zero trouble so far. I doubt that that's what's causing the problem. I'm gonna clean the plugs and connectors and weatherproof them and see if that does anything.
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So, after roughly 40.000 shifts of flawless performance, my groupset is finally showing issues: I'm experiencing battery drain. I came home from a vacation trip and the bike was stored on the wall for a week. The RD was dead because the battery was fully drained. I recharged it to 100%, went out on a 90min ride and it was down to 82%. After leaving the bike for another day it's now at 59%.
Has anybody with these kinds of issues found a cause and/or solution? The batteries have given me zero trouble so far. I doubt that that's what's causing the problem. I'm gonna clean the plugs and connectors and weatherproof them and see if that does anything.
That's what happened to me. I rode my gravel bike for 2 weeks straight, decided to ride my SPCycle ER9 road bike and it just died. After reseting the RD like 30-40 times in a row while plugged into the charger, it finally woke up. My FD was still working the whole time, it was just the RD that was dead. Though I had already messaged 80 Design Store and they sent me a replacement RD since I'm not sure what's going on with my current one. Strangely enough LTwoo issued a firmware update on the app for that RD once it woke up!
Get this, between my two ER9 groupsets both RDs and both FDs all have different firmware versions. I can only presume each one has slightly different internal hardware, because you'd think they'd all have the same FW updates applied.
Though my TFSA ER9 road bike has zero issues with battery drain even if I let it sit for awhile. This one has taken the most abuse as well and no issues using the same exact batteries. I can only surmise the issue stems from the RD or battery holder causing drain issues if they pop up.
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Well, I cleaned all connections and sealed the plug on the RD with silicone grease again.
The battery level went up again to 60% when checking on the app. Whatever that means.
I have a theory that dirty connections on the RD can cause drain issues. I noticed for example that if the magnetic connector on the RD that the charger plug goes onto is dirty, then the charger can actually drain the battery instead of charging it. I dunno if dirt can cause some sort of shorting issues? Anyway, when that happened, I just needed to wipe everything clean and it went back to normal.
Well see what happens, I guess. I'm kinda glad that I bought my groupset at 80 Designer Store as well. So hopefully they'll step in if my RD decides to die.
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So, after roughly 40.000 shifts of flawless performance, my groupset is finally showing issues: I'm experiencing battery drain. I came home from a vacation trip and the bike was stored on the wall for a week. The RD was dead because the battery was fully drained. I recharged it to 100%, went out on a 90min ride and it was down to 82%. After leaving the bike for another day it's now at 59%.
Has anybody with these kinds of issues found a cause and/or solution? The batteries have given me zero trouble so far. I doubt that that's what's causing the problem. I'm gonna clean the plugs and connectors and weatherproof them and see if that does anything.
I had the same thing happen to me after being caught in the rain. 80 Designer store sent me a new rear derailleur. While waiting for the new one to get in, the old one did start to hold charge a little better over time but I went and swapped out the derailleurs anyways and everything was running good. No idea how the old one is doing now as its been sitting in a box since all this went down
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Cleaning everything didn’t do much apparently. The groupset works but the battery went from 60% to 44% over night. So still considerable battery drain.
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So, after roughly 40.000 shifts of flawless performance, my groupset is finally showing issues: I'm experiencing battery drain. I came home from a vacation trip and the bike was stored on the wall for a week. The RD was dead because the battery was fully drained. I recharged it to 100%, went out on a 90min ride and it was down to 82%. After leaving the bike for another day it's now at 59%.
Has anybody with these kinds of issues found a cause and/or solution? The batteries have given me zero trouble so far. I doubt that that's what's causing the problem. I'm gonna clean the plugs and connectors and weatherproof them and see if that does anything.
have you tried replacing the batteries... they can get weak and break down from constant drain... Kinda like phone batteries dont last as long as they used too after a year or more.
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have you tried replacing the batteries... they can get weak and break down from constant drain... Kinda like phone batteries dont last as long as they used too after a year or more.
I’ve been using the groupset for something like 8 months and around 5.000 km. I must have charged it less than 20 times throughout that period. So I can’t imagine that the batteries already show that kind of behaviour after just so few charging cycles. Also, the drainage kind of started from one day to the next. It used to hold the charge for a long time. And there was no drainage when the bike was stored and the groupset asleep. So I think there’s another issue going on.
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I contacted 80 Designer Store. They too suggested that the batteries might be the problem. So I agreed to swap them out and see what happens. I bought a set of 14500 cells with high capacity and discharge voltage, as recommended by rockerplates. Let’s see what happens.
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Double check your app if there's a new FW for your RD. The ER9 RD version that was being problematic for me, recently updated to version 1.4. My other ER9 which isn't having issues is on version 1.1. I'm testing to see if the ER9 RD with FW ver 1.4 will have less problems, before I install the replacement RD that's shipping to me.
I'm wondering if LTwoo is issuing separate firmware versions on units with different internal hardware?
My ER9 groupset FW:
SPCyle ER9 - RD ver. 1.4 / FD ver. 0.0
TFSA ER9 - RD ver 1.1 / FD ver. 1.12
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I check for updates every time I connect the groupset with the app. I received two updates in short succession after I set the groupset up. Nothing since then.
My RD is on FW version 0.1.1, my FD on version 1.12
I replaced the batteries. But my hopes are very slim. The strange behaviour continues. Contrary to earlier, the app reports 100% charge after just about one hour. The green light stops flashing and is on continuously. It did that with the old batteries too. When it was still working normal, charging usually took at least a few hours before it was full. And now, after just a few minutes the charge dropped to 96%. I’ll leave it over night and see what happens. But something seems off with the circuit. Charging doesn’t work properly and it drains the battery even when the groupset is asleep, apparently. It started doing that from one day to the next. I didn’t do a particularly wet ride before that.
Luckily, the new batteries have a built in protection circuit that prevents shortages, zero discharge or overcharging.
I’ll see what happens but I think the RD is fishy.
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If you want to eliminate variables, you can get a lithium charger and place the batteries in the bike when you KNOW they're charged. Then see what the app says, and if they drain for no reason or not. A charger can also do a capacity test, which is helpful.
I've done that several times because my own er9 is very temperamental with charging. It's great redundancy to have. Mine is an opus something, it was the gold standard when I bought it, it's served me well. We live surrounded by lithium cells so such a thing has been useful many times. From memory it's about 20 bucks, and should last you a lifetime.
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Sure. But regardless of how much the batteries are charged, it shouldn’t drain them when the bike is sitting idle. Historically it never has. The battery level remained largely unchanged even when the bike was left for a week. Now it’s fully drained when I do that.
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I'm not disagreeing with you. I'm just suggesting a way that's been helpful to me in order to isolate a variable to get closer to the source of the issue.
In 2024, Colombo would be using an opus charger.
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My ER9 RD replacement RD arrived this morning. Big props to 80 Design Store. They definitely get an A+ for customer service. They definitely should earn our support.
Though I've been riding my revived ER9 RD (happened after like 30+ button resets) and after the surprise FW update to 0.1.14, it's been working quite well! This FW seems to only apply to certain ER9/X RDs though, so not sure how LTwoo ascertains the FW process? If LTwoo's hardware wasn't so quirky, the shift performance and app are actually well done. It seems like Wheeltop is stealing a lot of their thunder.
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So what is the consensus on the ER9/ERX? I'm looking into buying it (ER9) since it is a great price at the moment. Seems like it works well when it works but has some downfalls. I don't mind tinkering with it to some extent and don't really want to mess with full internal routing with a mechanical group.
- Waterproofing issues- Grease the plugs seems to be a consistent solution
- need to buy decent batteries- What are the current demands on this to justify a specific battery over another
if you do these things it seems like it is a reliable group. Especially if you get it from a reliable seller like the 80 designer store and can actually get warranty support.
I can't justify spending almost 120% on the wheeltop eds group so this would be the limit in my budget, the next choice would be mechanical 11/12speed from ltwoo... What would be your guy's opinion?
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So what is the consensus on the ER9/ERX? I'm looking into buying it (ER9) since it is a great price at the moment. Seems like it works well when it works but has some downfalls. I don't mind tinkering with it to some extent and don't really want to mess with full internal routing with a mechanical group.
- Waterproofing issues- Grease the plugs seems to be a consistent solution
- need to buy decent batteries- What are the current demands on this to justify a specific battery over another
if you do these things it seems like it is a reliable group. Especially if you get it from a reliable seller like the 80 designer store and can actually get warranty support.
I can't justify spending almost 120% on the wheeltop eds group so this would be the limit in my budget, the next choice would be mechanical 11/12speed from ltwoo... What would be your guy's opinion?
Buy from 80 Design Store, protect your plugs and spend extra $ on quality batteries. That sounds about right. Also once you get your fine tune adjustments done, I think it's a good idea to write them down somewhere just in case you need to reset the groupset.
I probably would have stayed mechanical if it wasn't for the LTwoo price point. It does work well when working and just be ready to figure stuff out on your own. Now that the 80 Design store has stepped up on warranty service, it's definitely helped and replacement parts are also available for purchase.
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So what is the consensus on the ER9/ERX? I'm looking into buying it (ER9) since it is a great price at the moment. Seems like it works well when it works but has some downfalls. I don't mind tinkering with it to some extent and don't really want to mess with full internal routing with a mechanical group.
- Waterproofing issues- Grease the plugs seems to be a consistent solution
- need to buy decent batteries- What are the current demands on this to justify a specific battery over another
if you do these things it seems like it is a reliable group. Especially if you get it from a reliable seller like the 80 designer store and can actually get warranty support.
I can't justify spending almost 120% on the wheeltop eds group so this would be the limit in my budget, the next choice would be mechanical 11/12speed from ltwoo... What would be your guy's opinion?
This thread is now 78 pages long, so I don't blame you for not being able or willing to scour it. Having followed along for most of it, I'll do my best to summarize. I'll also state that I don't actually own an eR9/eRX, but I do own the 1x gravel version the eGR (different thread running in the cross forum).
It seems like, on the whole, most people are happy with it. As long as it works, it seems like a capable unit with good performance. A few people have had issues and are peeved, a few have had lots of issues - or, more accurately - or multiple units with the same issues and are much more put off and vocal about their displeasure. I don't dare call them outliers, but their vocal displeasure is not without some grain of truth.
The biggest issues is that you can't expect Ltwoo to directly step up and back their product. They put the work of supporting the product on the retailer. They must have some level of backing for their product, as some stores seem quite capable of issuing replacement parts and replacing troublesome units entirely. 80s Designer Store has been the store most talked about for stepping up and supporting users after sales. Other stores have been more spotty. I'll add my own experience that I thought I damaged a part in a crash and reached out to Ltwoo to buy a replacement. They weren't able to help me because they said they don't sell directly to consumers, at least I think they tried to say that but ultimately just kept putting me off. 80s Designer Store ultimately stepped up and offered to sell me the part. Kudos to them.
My own experience is with the eGR and I'm quite happy with it. I'm coming up on 800mi on mine over the last 6 months or so. Still works great, even after a crash that took out my derailleur hanger. Well, mostly. I think the bearings on the rollers were not adequate for a gravel groupset that might see dirt and water regularly, but that's a minor issue since those are easily replaceable. I paid mechanical groupset money for an electronic groupset that shifts as good as 800 mi as it did at 8 mi. What's not to like? I'm going to ride a mess load of gravel this winter and spring, I hope, so I'll have a more seasoned take on it in 6 more months. Honestly, it works great, so the only thing I can really report on is whether or not it still works in 6 more months.
Buy good batteries. They're not even expensive. Just find a reputable retailer. I bought from a US based retailer that sells for the flashlight and vape markets. Those markets have been around a while so lots of "reputable" brands with lots of history and reviews. Dont spend $XXX on a groupset and try to save $5 on the batteries. Even 'expensive' cells are CHEAP as dirt compared to the branded packs that SRAM and Shimano sell.
At the end of the day, you have to be aware that you're taking some amount of risk. You can't walk into a bike shop and get a replacement charging cable, or wire harness, or new derailleur next week. In the worst case, you might get shafted with a failed unit that won't be replaced for free. In even the best case, you might have a crash and be down for weeks while you wait for a replacement part, because it all comes from China and none of it is stateside. If you're willing to deal with that, then you can likely reap significant cost savings for, hopefully, just a little risk of inconvenience. If the potential for missing a race or event depends on whether or not you pinch your charging cable, then maybe stick to more mainstream brands.
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Buy from 80 Design Store, protect your plugs and spend extra $ on quality batteries. That sounds about right. Also once you get your fine tune adjustments done, I think it's a good idea to write them down somewhere just in case you need to reset the groupset.
I probably would have stayed mechanical if it wasn't for the LTwoo price point. It does work well when working and just be ready to figure stuff out on your own. Now that the 80 Design store has stepped up on warranty service, it's definitely helped and replacement parts are also available for purchase.
Thats where I'm at, LTwoo Rx/R9 mechanical are really good value and don't seem to have many major flaws. I could spend a bit more to maybe piece together a used 105/ultegra mechanical disc group, or I could spend a similar amount and get the ERx/ER9 and get electronic goodies.
This thread is now 78 pages long, so I don't blame you for not being able or willing to scour it. Having followed along for most of it, I'll do my best to summarize. I'll also state that I don't actually own an eR9/eRX, but I do own the 1x gravel version the eGR (different thread running in the cross forum).
I've read through a good portion of it over the last week trying to come to a decision. There are large sections where the topic changes a bunch so it is hard to find the real meat and potatoes of what is good/bad. Thanks for your help.
At the end of the day, you have to be aware that you're taking some amount of risk. You can't walk into a bike shop and get a replacement charging cable, or wire harness, or new derailleur next week. In the worst case, you might get shafted with a failed unit that won't be replaced for free. In even the best case, you might have a crash and be down for weeks while you wait for a replacement part, because it all comes from China and none of it is stateside. If you're willing to deal with that, then you can likely reap significant cost savings for, hopefully, just a little risk of inconvenience. If the potential for missing a race or event depends on whether or not you pinch your charging cable, then maybe stick to more mainstream brands.
I'm willing to risk it some... At the minimum having the ability to get replacements is a must, but having a good seller to give warranty if something fails in a way that is not my fault is what I think is a decent position to be in. I have a ECE degree so I'd honestly love to mess with internals and I'd replace electrical components if I had to. Biggest things are not wanting to be stranded over something stupid if i can help it, and not throwing money down the drain on this build.
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I bought 6 groups, installed them on 5 bikes, 3 broke. Always the RD, always for no reason. Mine (#4) has problems with the charging port. #5 is reporting that the battery started getting drain for no apparent reason. I've put 9k km on mine.
I like it. When it works. You can calibrate it so it works really well, but it takes work. Because it's much more flexible (it's not shimano 11s w a shimano cassette and a shimano crank type of deal), you have to put in the work. Sometimes it gets out of whack and you have to recalibrate it. If you change the cassette, you need to recalibrate. And so on.
It is quirky, for eg, bleeding the brakes requires loosening a screw that's not on Shimano, so if you bring it to the shop, they make break something or get confused.
A friend says shimano brakes are better, so it might be something you can improve by trying various pads, hoses, discs combo. Again, you're not in an ecosystem where things have been chosen for you.
Since i've put expensive batteries, i stopped worrying about having to charge it very often, and shifting is very reliable.
Now. Say you go ride the Atlas. Or go on a bike packing trip with friends. Or race. Or ride in the rain a lot. Or ride roads with lots of vibrations (one of my groups died during a downhill that had bad asphalt and a lot of road buzz). Would i recommend it? No, because if your RD dies, you're F'ed, and F'ing the people with you.
Imagine you're training all year for a triathlon, and it's on that day that the group decides to die on you, for absolutely no reason. You will have a bad day. I'd say if you're a triathlete, given how expensive entry fees have become, buy shimano or sram, be consistent :)
I dont race, and i bought a spare group so i can replace the RD if mine dies. And i bought a spare RD for Friend running #5, so he also has that redundancy.
We got the earlier versions, as we ordered in the summer of 2023. However, it is evident that the same issues still happen, albeit seemingly less frequently. So you would expect the groups to become more reliable, but that's not fact.
Half the reason i ride what i ride is to experiment. This is not for everyone. I got the groups for c.420 USD. Would i spend 700 for them? no. If i had to spend much more than that, i'd probably use mechanical shimano 11s 2nd hand. Would i spend 1k to get shimano di2? most probably not, i just find it excessive. Shimano and SRAM have been patent milking for years, and i dont care to finance the groupsets of pro teams.
Given how annoying it is to fully route houses, if i ran mechanical, i might run the shifting hoses externally to avoid 90 degree kinks in the cockpit, and then you should be able to get super crisp mechanical shifting.
One of my friends is back to riding his sworks because he can't get the ER9 RD to shift properly and i've been away, and he's as mechanically inclined as I am a good dancer. So i'll have to re-re-re-recalibrate it myself so it shifts well again. He likes it. When it works. He is one of the 3 whose RD died, so basically half the season, he had to use his old bike.
So, me and my friends riding the er9 have mixed feelings about it. When it works, it works. But it tends to not work, when it stops working, it's for no reason, and it requires much more baby sitting than sram or shimano.
And dont get me started on warranty claims.
Your mileage may vary.
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So, I replaced my batteries. I ran about three charging cycles. I made sure that the batteries are at 100%. (But then again, if the groupset doesn't charge properly it's just as bad as when it drains the battery. I'm surely not going to pull the seatpost and get the batteries out every time I need to charge them). Every time, the battery level is down to less than 20% after roughly 48 hours. In that time, I did not touch the bike except checking for the battery level. And this is despite putting in new batteries with considerably more capacity and capable of much higher discharge currents.
I contacted 80 Designer Store to see what they say.
Edit: I disconnected the RD for several hours. It stopped the draining issues. The battery level remained stable. So I reckon the problem lies within the RD.
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if you have several bikes to jump back to, go for the er9, or if you use it on your indoor trainer bike...otherwise, it is not reliable. you may end up in the middle of nowwhere. the only place you can buy is aliexpress, therefore you need to buy 2 groupsets or wait for the parts to be returned by the seller. If ltwoo treats the aliexpress seller the same way like us, they compensate the defectives on their site, (Ltwoo did not change any of the broken er9 products we have had (rds, burned battery trayS) even sending them videos, pictures etc..they would cover them, but we would need to order again, without a follow up order, they are not willing to compensate) this may end pretty fast, if margins drop, defective rates go down, of if the seller just does not want to sponsor the sales on his own...
I think, they also have issue with the battery holder draining voltage in some cases, otherwise the burned one which fired up the seatpost of our client is not explanable.
Long things short: shimano for the win, if oyu only have one bike, it is not worth the hassle.....
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I think as this will be my only bike I should get something more reliable. Thanks for all the input guys.
I'll still be eyeballing this and the wheeltop group, If the price was more competitive from wheeltop I'd go for it the thing that scares me with that one is the battery. Having the ability to fine tune each gear sounds like it would help keep the chain/cassette noise down and probably wear out parts slower. My claris group sucked and would be loud no matter how much I adjusted it.
Has there been any announcements of the next gen for eRX? I know the blue version kind of got scrapped but they had a TT group and some stuff at one of the bike shows.
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I think as this will be my only bike I should get something more reliable. Thanks for all the input guys.
I'll still be eyeballing this and the wheeltop group, If the price was more competitive from wheeltop I'd go for it the thing that scares me with that one is the battery. Having the ability to fine tune each gear sounds like it would help keep the chain/cassette noise down and probably wear out parts slower. My claris group sucked and would be loud no matter how much I adjusted it.
Has there been any announcements of the next gen for eRX? I know the blue version kind of got scrapped but they had a TT group and some stuff at one of the bike shows.
ER9 is great if you have a backup bike and a few spare replacement parts. At this point it's more for the DIY crowd. When it works it's awesome. One of my ER9 RDs was totally dead and I had to hard reset it like 30 times until it woke up. Though the EGR sounds like it's been quite solid with less problems.
I think many of us are sadists for using sketchy bike components! ;D
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ER9 is great if you have a backup bike and a few spare replacement parts. At this point it's more for the DIY crowd. When it works it's awesome. One of my ER9 RDs was totally dead and I had to hard reset it like 30 times until it woke up. Though the EGR sounds like it's been quite solid with less problems.
I think many of us are sadists for using sketchy bike components! ;D
Well, regarding wheeltop, hambini is just building a bike with it :-/ we will see what finally thinks about the product and we will see if he will destroy it on youtube or like it?
We are still waiting on valid iformation regarding the battery packs they use, it needs certificates and tests if you want to import it to the eu....so far, they only provide ce certs for the charger 24 month old...and ignore my questions regarding the battery...no ul tests etc...
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Update on my battery drain issues: I had a bit of back and forth with 80 Designer Store. They said they were going to discuss my problem “with the engineer”. The draining issues continued regardless of new batteries. They warned me to not exceed the battery capacity of 800mAh because “the product might die” if I do. I don’t quite understand why? More capacity doesn’t mean higher voltages and/or currents, right? The battery charge will just last longer?
Anyway, I ordered yet another set of batteries exactly to their specs and a charger/testing device to make sure that all my batteries are fine. Even though I’m quite sure there was never anything wrong with my original batteries in the first place.
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They warned me to not exceed the battery capacity of 800mAh because “the product might die” if I do. I don’t quite understand why? More capacity doesn’t mean higher voltages and/or currents, right? The battery charge will just last longer?
I agree, I see no reason why additional capacity would fry anything. Voltage stays in the right range for longer with larger capacity, but voltage doesn't go higher than a charged lower capacity cell. And i assume the app reads a voltage and returns a value out of 100 for battery life, because no electronics can run a capacity test without running a capacity test, which means charging and discharging and fully chargi the cell, which takes energy, a fan, and hours.
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Update on my battery drain issues: I had a bit of back and forth with 80 Designer Store. They said they were going to discuss my problem “with the engineer”. The draining issues continued regardless of new batteries. They warned me to not exceed the battery capacity of 800mAh because “the product might die” if I do. I don’t quite understand why? More capacity doesn’t mean higher voltages and/or currents, right? The battery charge will just last longer?
Anyway, I ordered yet another set of batteries exactly to their specs and a charger/testing device to make sure that all my batteries are fine. Even though I’m quite sure there was never anything wrong with my original batteries in the first place.
totally bs in case of a draining battery....there may be some "defectice/cold" solderspots, which have more internal resistance and keep drawing energy, there may be moisture somewhere?
the increasing capacity does have effect on hihger "amps" if the c rate is the same...800mah with a c-rate of 10 means 8 amps continues on a stable voltage, 1200 mAh with c-rate of 10 is 12 Amps with a stable voltage supplied....so if your setup ask for 12 amps, the smaller batteries will show a lower voltage....therefore, if there is something wrong with the pcb or rd or ? higher amps may destroy something. This should not happen if properly tested by the "engineers"...
and yes, the charge will take longer..
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I rode the bike the other day and I noticed that the battery draining apparently only happens when the groupset goes to sleep. I charged it up for roughly 2h. The battery was at 84%. I rode for 2.5h and it was at 82% after. Then I put the bike away. Next morning the battery is at 9%. I doesn’t go lower bc the new lithium cells have an internal PCB that protects them from overcharging/overdischarging. So basically the batteries are empty after one night. I cleaned all contacts again to see if there are any shorts that might have caused this. Didnt help.
No answer yet from 80 Designer Store.
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I've had it when I had bike with a cover. because it was working out of the air. try to have it on the front big disk and big rear so that the chain is tight.
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I've had it when I had bike with a cover. because it was working out of the air. try to have it on the front big disk and big rear so that the chain is tight.
Not entirely sure what you mean. But I store my bike indoors. The sleep mode works very reliably. So usually after just 20-30s the derailleurs will not react anymore when I push the buttons on the shifters. So I’m quite sure that when I store the bike, the groupset is definitely switched off.
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I'd try resetting the RD multiple times and see if that triggers the latest firmware update. I'd also try disconnecting the battery cables overnight and then check the charge status. Either you need a new RD or a new battery holder.
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I'd try resetting the RD multiple times and see if that triggers the latest firmware update. I'd also try disconnecting the battery cables overnight and then check the charge status. Either you need a new RD or a new battery holder.
I've disconnected the RD cable several times already. Then the draining stops and the battery level remains constant. In fact it's how I store the bike now so the batteries keep their charge. I narrowed down so far that it only happens a) in sleep mode and b) when the RD is connected. I haven't tried resetting the groupset. I'll check that out. Can you quickly describe the procedure? Is it just a matter of keeping the RD button pressed until it's reset?
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I've disconnected the RD cable several times already. Then the draining stops and the battery level remains constant. In fact it's how I store the bike now so the batteries keep their charge. I narrowed down so far that it only happens a) in sleep mode and b) when the RD is connected. I haven't tried resetting the groupset. I'll check that out. Can you quickly describe the procedure? Is it just a matter of keeping the RD button pressed until it's reset?
I repeatedly pressed and held the RD button several times over and I did a factory reset (write down your fine tuning settings). The app then prompted me to updated my RD firmware to the latest version. Though this may or may not work, because my other ER9 bike groupset hasn't received the firmware update, but I have no issues with that unit.
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Anyone ever had ghost shifts with this group? Group is still going strong here but sometimes very rare it shifts without me touching a shifter. It's so rare that I don't even bother it
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Anyone ever had ghost shifts with this group? Group is still going strong here but sometimes very rare it shifts without me touching a shifter. It's so rare that I don't even bother it
Until i installed fancy batteries, i would fairly often get multiple shifts (RD) when clicking only once. That 100% disappeared after the battery swap. But i never ever had a ghost shift.
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I'd try resetting the RD multiple times and see if that triggers the latest firmware update. I'd also try disconnecting the battery cables overnight and then check the charge status. Either you need a new RD or a new battery holder.
I reset the RD three times. I charged it back up. Charging took noticeably longer after that like it used to when the RD was still working normally. But it didn’t help. Battery level dropped to 73% in 12h. Also it didn’t prompt any firmware update. Neither for the RD not for the FD. I got another set of batteries I’m gonna try. Meanwhile I confirmed that my original batteries are working fine. They charge up and my battery tester gives them the thumbs up. They don’t reach 800mAh though. But neither do the brand new batteries I just unboxed. According to spec they should have 800mAh. But my charger gives a reading of 596mAh when they’re full.
Anyway. I’ll do a third run with the third set of batteries. But I don’t expect a different outcome. Meanwhile still no word from 80 Designer Store. I’ll send them my testing results when I’m done.
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Hi, have somebody EGR shiffters and could test if they work with RD from er9/erx?
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What is currently considered a "good price" for the er9 set?
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What is currently considered a "good price" for the er9 set?
The best price I bought mine for was from the LTwoo Choice store for about $350 USD with local tax. Luckily that ER9 unit has been solid. Though I'd buy from the 80 Design Store and pay a little more (should be sub $400 USD) and get follow-up customer service. You have no recourse for warranty service on Choice items once 90 days is up. I wouldn't buy any Choice items that might have issues after the return period.
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Thanks. With the current discount code I could get it for 399 USD + local tax from 80 designer store. So in line with what you expect. Wondering if singles day sale might come out even better.
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Thanks. With the current discount code I could get it for 399 USD + local tax from 80 designer store. So in line with what you expect. Wondering if singles day sale might come out even better.
Sellers might just wait for the 11.11 sale to drop prices even more. I would just leave things in the cart and wait.
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Yeah that's what I figured. Otherwise I snag it on the first of December sale.
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80 Designer Store replied to me about my battery draining issues. They will send a new RD to me. Praise to them for respecting their warranty.
Still, I’m 99% sure that I’m going to get a used Sram Rival AXS group for cheap and replace my er9. So if anyone within Europe is looking to get one for cheap, send me a pm.
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I thought I'd update those considering the eGR. I bought good quality batteries and have only charged them once. I've been on about 15 rides so far (ranging from 20km - 80km) and the batteries are currently sitting at about 72%.
I've had it on my bike for two months if that's of any worth?
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I thought I'd update those considering the eGR. I bought good quality batteries and have only charged them once. I've been on about 15 rides so far (ranging from 20km - 80km) and the batteries are currently sitting at about 72%.
I've had it on my bike for two months if that's of any worth?
Well, it worked for most of us when it was still brand new. Fingers crossed that yours will keep working.
While we're on the topic of eGR: We still don't know whether LTWOO's electronic groups are cross compatible. Does your battery holder have two cable ports and one is left unused? Is it the same 3 pin plug? Because 80 Designer Store promotes the egR with having a "2024 new" battery holder. Yet on the photos it looks exactly the same.
Also, I wonder if the left shifter buttons can be used for something else at some point. For instance to turn pages on Wahoo or Garmin computers or control a bluetooth dropper.
It doesn't really make sense that LTWOO went through the trouble to come up with dedicated gravel brifters and sell these with buttons on both levers when they don't even make a 2X gravel groupset. They'd be selling dead weight and lose money in the process, right?
Otherwise one might as well strip the left shifter.
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I have an eGR that I bought in March or April of this year. The battery holder weirdly only had one port. The second port was blanked off. Otherwise it looked the same as the eR9 one (from photos I've seen). I still can't figure out why they would make it a unique item.
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Has anyone removed the upper pulley wheel of an eGR (or maybe eR9, not sure how similar they are)? I went to remove mine earlier and discovered that it's not so easy to remove. It seems like there's no nut or maybe just an e-clip or something holding the hardware on. I couldn't immediately work out how to remove it and decided to leave it alone since that wasn't my primary goal while I was tinkering.
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Has anyone removed the upper pulley wheel of an eGR (or maybe eR9, not sure how similar they are)? I went to remove mine earlier and discovered that it's not so easy to remove. It seems like there's no nut or maybe just an e-clip or something holding the hardware on. I couldn't immediately work out how to remove it and decided to leave it alone since that wasn't my primary goal while I was tinkering.
The ER9 just uses standard cage screws to hold the pulley wheels in-place. They're easy to remove.
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Hi, have someone test if RD ER9 will work with cassete 11-36 or higher? I read thaht 11-34 is max (ltwoo manual)
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Hi, have someone test if RD ER9 will work with cassete 11-36 or higher? I read thaht 11-34 is max (ltwoo manual)
On my setup I'm using 50-34 and 11-34t. My big/big clears, but I leave gear protection on, so I'm never in that gear. I tried 52-36t and 11-34t and found the chain was too loose for my taste. You could possible run a 48-31t chainring and 11-36t, but shift performance might be affected. You can also try an RD extender and see if that'll help.
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Hi, have someone test if RD ER9 will work with cassete 11-36 or higher? I read thaht 11-34 is max (ltwoo manual)
when i used a 36, i used a cage extender. We all run 34 native on our er9. ltwoo used to say 32 was the max.
In front, 50/34, 52/36 or 53/39 depending on the rider and terrain.
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Hi, have someone test if RD ER9 will work with cassete 11-36 or higher? I read thaht 11-34 is max (ltwoo manual)
i’m using a 12 speed 11-36 and. 46/30 in front with no issues. I did replace the -pulleys with stone ones because the ltwoo bearings were poopy
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I just set up a bike with 1x ER9 using an 11-36 cassette (11 speed) and 42t chainring. Haven't test ridden it yet, but it shifts just fine in the stand.
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So I picked up an er9 in the current sale. Wanna give it a try for an upcoming gravel build. I know, I know, given the reports of water-related damages to the RD and batteries, that's probably not the best idea - but I guess we all like to make life a bit hard sometimes ;D
If I remember correctly, I saw people talking about "weather proofing" their groupsets to keep potential wet ride damages to a minimum. Trying to seal up all contact points as good as they could. Can anybody who actually did this on their groupset comment on what exactly they did?
Cheers!
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So I picked up an er9 in the current sale. Wanna give it a try for an upcoming gravel build. I know, I know, given the reports of water-related damages to the RD and batteries, that's probably not the best idea - but I guess we all like to make life a bit hard sometimes ;D
If I remember correctly, I saw people talking about "weather proofing" their groupsets to keep potential wet ride damages to a minimum. Trying to seal up all contact points as good as they could. Can anybody who actually did this on their groupset comment on what exactly they did?
Cheers!
You can do either the heat shrink tube method or the liquid tape/rubber cement + dielectric grease to protect the battery cable contact points.
Even though I have 2 ER9 road bikes, I've been hesitant to go EGR on my gravel bike because I hose it down after every ride due to the dusty terrain in my area. There's no avoiding washing my bike.
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Thanks for the quick reply. Where exactly did you apply the grease? The heat shrink probably around the cable connections? If you happen to have a picture, I'd appreciate it!
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Thanks for the quick reply. Where exactly did you apply the grease? The heat shrink probably around the cable connections? If you happen to have a picture, I'd appreciate it!
The dielectric grease goes directly on the contacts and pins inside the plug.
I have an eGR and I elected not to use the rubber cement or any other glues or sealants. I just used dielectric grease on the ports.
But... eGR hasn't had water ingress issues that I'm aware of. Really, all the grease is doing, I think, is helping waterproof the electrical connections, not prevent water from getting INSIDE of the derailleur. The other methods are, I think, ways to try to keep water from getting inside of the derailleur. If it functions correctly, that should never be an issue.
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Okay, will wait for the delivery and check hands-on how to handle it.
Anybody know the size of the pulley wheels? Read they are pretty bad quality; might wanna replace them right away.
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Okay, will wait for the delivery and check hands-on how to handle it.
Anybody know the size of the pulley wheels? Read they are pretty bad quality; might wanna replace them right away.
Again, I can only speak for the eGR and not for the eR9. I found the bottom pulley was 14t, which was a strange size. The bearings were fine, but we're not sealed. Big miss on a gravel groupset, imo. They ran fine for hundreds of miles, but once I got them really wet they spun very poorly. I replaced with some cheap Ali Express pulleys. 13t ran fine as a replacement, but recently re-replaced with a slightly better 14t pulley.
Again, the only real problem was the non-sealed bearing. You should be fine to start off with, so don't worry about replacing immediately. Wait until you get it and evaluate what you want to replace it with.
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Got a link to those better ones?
Can you only change the bottom one or why did you only change that one?
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Got a link to those better ones?
Can you only change the bottom one or why did you only change that one?
This is actually a question I asked to the eGR thread in the other side of the forum. I can't seem to easily change my upper pulley and I'm not 100% sure why. It's like it's held in with an e-clip or something instead of a screw. I was hoping someone else could tell me if they've replaced theirs. So far, I've had no answer. I think someone chimed in to say that the eR9 was not like that, though, and they are able to simply unscrew the hardware for their upper pulley.
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Okay, will wait for the delivery and check hands-on how to handle it.
Anybody know the size of the pulley wheels? Read they are pretty bad quality; might wanna replace them right away.
The upper jockey wheel is 11t and the lower jockey wheel is 12t. Also there's no leeway to go bigger unlike Shimano RD cages.The lower pulley wheel has narrow-wide teeth, so you need to properly align your chain. I've experimented using Ultegra jockey wheels, but honestly I'm fine with the Ltwoo stock ones, so I've just left them in. I don't road ride in the rain and prefer using my gravel bike during the wet and cold seasons...though I live in year round riding conditions! ;)
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but honestly I'm fine with the Ltwoo stock ones, so I've just left them in. I don't road ride in the rain and prefer using my gravel bike during the wet and cold seasons...though I live in year round riding conditions! ;)
Sounds like similar bearings to what are in my eGR pulleys. I also found them to be fine, and - to be clear - they held up well even for light rain and moisture. I only noticed a problem with my lower pulley having been soaked fully in deep puddles. My upper pulley is still fine despite being ridden in light rain, at least one heavy rain, and some damp/moist riding.
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Sounds like similar bearings to what are in my eGR pulleys. I also found them to be fine, and - to be clear - they held up well even for light rain and moisture. I only noticed a problem with my lower pulley having been soaked fully in deep puddles. My upper pulley is still fine despite being ridden in light rain, at least one heavy rain, and some damp/moist riding.
Fovno jockey wheels are my go-to wheels on my gravel bike using a GRX 812 RD + Garbaruk cage:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806461367775.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806461367775.html)
Even with multiple washes and heavy use they still look good and spin smoothly.
For the ER9 though, I might consider switching to either sealed Shimano jockey wheels or I might try these Stone wheels, but they don't have an 11t option, only 10t/12t:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802305982659.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802305982659.html)
Lastly I don't touch alloy wheels or anything with ceramic bearing for off-road riding.
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In April I was really kean on the eRX for a new build, in the en I got the eGR for my gravelbike and moved my Force AXS to the new road bike, that bike unfortuamely got stolen in September.
Im now again building a new road bike and Im impressed enough with the eGR that I now again want eRX for the new road bike. Currently this has the best looking shifter in my eyes and I realy like the ergonomics. But the current eRX really looks industrial wrt its front derailleur.
So again Im waiting for the new eRX "Blue" to be sold. I see its on its website, but nowhere available for sale.
No-one have more news when this will be actually for sale and why its taking so long?
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In April I was really kean on the eRX for a new build, in the en I got the eGR for my gravelbike and moved my Force AXS to the new road bike, that bike unfortuamely got stolen in September.
Im now again building a new road bike and Im impressed enough with the eGR that I now again want eRX for the new road bike. Currently this has the best looking shifter in my eyes and I realy like the ergonomics. But the current eRX really looks industrial wrt its front derailleur.
So again Im waiting for the new eRX "Blue" to be sold. I see its on its website, but nowhere available for sale.
No-one have more news when this will be actually for sale and why its taking so long?
Yeah right! I am also looking forward to the updated eRX. On their YouTube channel, they even already have the updated FD with what looks to be the new USB-C charging port. I am now considering an upgrade for either the new eRX or the new Magene QED. Though I don't know if I want to be on another first generation groupset. At least, by now, LTWOO should have figured a couple of things to improve upon their previous one(s).
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for those interested - the eR9 brake levers work with the eGR rear derailleur and vice versa, the eR9 rear derailleur works with the eGR brake levers
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for those interested - the eR9 brake levers work with the eGR rear derailleur and vice versa, the eR9 rear derailleur works with the eGR brake levers
For shifting? If so, then that's awesome!!!
I'm guessing that the RD is the 'brains' of the whole thing. If that's the case, my guess is that you can't simply add an eR9 front derailleur to an eGR rear derailleur and have them work together as a 2x groupset. It would be interesting if you could somehow try that.
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I checked it for you, mounted rear derailleur eGR front eR9 works together, gear change works RD reacts to the right brake lever FD reacts to the left brake lever so the sets can be swapped. A large beer is due
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for those interested - the eR9 brake levers work with the eGR rear derailleur and vice versa, the eR9 rear derailleur works with the eGR brake levers
Finally we have confirmation! I might just pick up an EGR RD and run one of my road bikes in 1x with wide range cassette!
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I checked it for you, mounted rear derailleur eGR front eR9 works together, gear change works RD reacts to the right brake lever FD reacts to the left brake lever so the sets can be swapped. A large beer is due
You're a hero! We owe you a huge can of beer, for sure. I might actually just get a set of eGR and set it 2x for a gravel frame that I just bought, since I have an extra FD lying around! I might even get away with just purchasing eGR RD and transfer one of my two eR9 to save a bit of cash.
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I checked it for you, mounted rear derailleur eGR front eR9 works together, gear change works RD reacts to the right brake lever FD reacts to the left brake lever so the sets can be swapped. A large beer is due
Incredible! You're now the hero of this forum. Seriously cool of you to drop this info!!!
Edit: On a more sobering note, surely you run out of derailleur takeup for a wide range cassette + 2x chainrings. But, even if you're somewhat limited on the number of gears or functional configurations of your setup, simply being able to mix/match parts to get a working groupset together is incredible value. I can't fathom why Ltwoo wouldn't advertise (or even mention) this fact?!
For me, personally: Right now I have an eGR. If I wanted to turn my 1x gravel bike into a road bike is swap my crank, swap my cassette, and clamp on a front derailleur. Boom. Now I've got a 2x road groupset. Hell, I think I can get 2x chainrings for my current crank, so really I just need to bolt on a new chain ring, clamp on a front derailleur, and swap my rear cassette and I've got an entirely new groupo.
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aramus personal hero!
Yeah er9+egr RD would be my favorite 2x12 gravel groupset as well. But why the hell is the single EGR RD so expensive? ~130 USD more than the er9?
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I didn't even think about 2x gravel! ;D
I have a 10-42t cassette and 46-30t chainring. That combo would give great high and low gear range. I could even try slapping on a 9-46t!
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Just to confirm though. The EGR battery pack only has 1 cable port. You'd need a 2 cable port battery pack. Also is there any confirmation that the EGR RD will talk to an ER9/X FD if hooked up together?
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I didn't even think about 2x gravel! ;D
I have a 10-42t cassette and 46-30t chainring. That combo would give great high and low gear range. I could even try slapping on a 9-46t!
46/9 would be an absolutely gianormous gear. That’s the equivalent of a 56/11. I’m running Ekar and with a 38t chainring and a 9t cog in the back I can comfortably pedal 55k/35mph on descents. More with a high cadence.
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Just to confirm though. The EGR battery pack only has 1 cable port. You'd need a 2 cable port battery pack. Also is there any confirmation that the EGR RD will talk to an ER9/X FD if hooked up together?
this is how they work together
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Okay, so if you wanna go down that road (pun intended), the best way would be to order a ER9 group and a spare EGR RD and link them together.
And if the RD fails for whatever reason, you still have a spare ER9 RD to use until your EGR replacement arrives ;D
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this is how they work together
Oops didn't see your other post! If that's the case this is huge. Yeah you deserve a beer! ;D
Now makes me think I should consider 2x + EGR on my gravel bike. I'd be fine with 46-30t + 10-42t. That would cover most my local climbing terrain with ease. Though you'd need to have both ER9 gruppo + EGR RD.
New thoughts: I did try running my GRX 812 RD + Garbaruk cage with a 10-42t and 46-30t chainring. An issue I faced is that I still had to make additional clearance with the 42t cog with the B screw when using the small 30t chainring, affecting high gear/small cog shifting performance. There's a good chance running FD + EGR might not shift well.
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deliberately avoiding cross chaining easily adds at least 4 teeth to any rear capacity. I am guessing a 42 or possibly 46 would shift with a 46/30. A 50/34 could probably shift to 42. The cage on the egr must be benefiting from narrow wide pulley wheels. I had a 1x derailleur cause chain suck in the smaller cogs so I’m glad to hear it shifts well- definitely getting an egr rear mech!
I set up DI two drive trains using this technique. A 44/28 and 11-46 with great shifting is cake. I just lock out the cross train gears maybe one or two down near the end.
I don’t see a lockout or synchronous shift option in the ltwoo app, but it would be readily implemented. I’m guessing with the acquisition of rotor, they intend to continue to invest so I’m hoping for this sort of programmability. Embracing the software side of this would give them a huge lift.
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The eGR RD has a clutch, right? Wouldn’t the higher chain tension impact front shifting. Does it work reliably? I’d imagine it’s like with Sram’s mechanical 1x RDs. You can’t combine these with an FD AFAIK. Never tried it but I can’t imagine that it’d work with that amount of chain tension.
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The eGR RD has a clutch, right? Wouldn’t the higher chain tension impact front shifting. Does it work reliably? I’d imagine it’s like with Sram’s mechanical 1x RDs. You can’t combine these with an FD AFAIK. Never tried it but I can’t imagine that it’d work with that amount of chain tension.
It works fine. GRX 2x RD also has a clutch. Shimano also has MTB groupsets with clutch and they work fine
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The GRX 2x "only" has to work with an 11-34/36t cassette. I could still see issues with larger cogs say 42t or even 46t. Limiting 2-3 cogs on either extreme end as suggested by lavistaa could help with the issue and still allow for a huge capacity.
But we won't know for sure until someone tries it for real.
Someone! Try it! Now! ;D
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i'm running 50-34 and 11-42 on my GRX 400 and a clutch in on makes a hugh differnce in chaining up gears from the middle of the cassette. But as the RD moves a lot further away to compensate for the 42 dinner plate in the back, at least for me the switched on clutch is no longer needed on gravel stuff.
so if the EGR has a clutch switch, the off position should work fine.
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My understanding of the EGR dampening system is, that it is "always on" and there is no off-switch - neither physically nor digital.
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My understanding of the EGR dampening system is, that it is "always on" and there is no off-switch - neither physically nor digital.
You are correct. Whatever it has, it is not selectable.
I don't think it has a clutch at all. It feels like it just has a very stiff spring. It's possible there is some damping, but it's not discernible just from feeling it with your hand.
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Ltwoo states it is a "structure composed of a unidirectional bearing and metal friction plates. It works by utilizing the friction of metal plates to absorb the excess chain jitter" - so probably a glorified spring ;D
source: https://www.ltwoo.com/Technologies/details?partId=13&specialId=13
I couldn't find much else on the web. Their manual doesn't even include the word "dampening", yet alone an explanation what it does or how it works.
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Ltwoo states it is a "structure composed of a unidirectional bearing and metal friction plates. It works by utilizing the friction of metal plates to absorb the excess chain jitter" - so probably a glorified spring
Yeah, the spring tension is higher than a road derailleur, but if that statement is true then maybe there's some amount of damping too.
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Quick update on my battery draining issues: So I received my replacement RD from 80 Designer Store. Again, kudos to them for respecting their warranty. I only paid around 10 EUR for shipping.
I installed the new RD, paired everything and the issue is gone. The new RD received a firmware update right away, so it's running on a different (newer) version than the old one. Anyway I've had it on the bike for a whole day now and the battery level has not changed. It remained at 77% throughout whereas with the old RD, it would drop at least 15% within the first 12-24h and then much quicker after that. The batteries are the same.
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Are there any updates for version 2.0? Which store can you recommend?
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For anybody running LTwoo groupsets in the US, I'd recommend ordering some 14500 batteries now. It seems stock is running dry, possibly due to impeding tariffs coming next year. I was planning to buy spare batteries from my go-to Ebay vendor and it looks like they're all sold out.
BTW - I just received an EGR groupset, but I think I'll be keeping it 1x for my gravel setup! ;D
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what is exactly the point of the erx groupset?
i miss something.
a full new 105 di2 with crankset cost around 890 euros in europe.
erx is not specially cheaper and not specially lighter
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what is exactly the point of the erx groupset?
i miss something.
a full new 105 di2 with crankset cost around 890 euros in europe.
erx is not specially cheaper and not specially lighter
er9 is where value for money lies. I found it to usually cost 2/3 or less than 105 Di2.
However, 105 Di2 and Sram Rival AXS are getting cheaper and cheaper. Which is another answer to your question: The point of Ltwoo and Wheeltop is that it forces established manufacturers to lower their prices to stay in competition. Well, and hopefully Ltwoo and Wheeltop up their game when it comes to reliability in the future.
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ok but what is the best price you find ?
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ok but what is the best price you find ?
In the most recent sale ER9 was 350USD from the L-Twoo Factory choice store. That's for shifters, brakes, derailleurs and batteries/wires.
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what is exactly the point of the erx groupset?
i miss something.
a full new 105 di2 with crankset cost around 890 euros in europe.
erx is not specially cheaper and not specially lighter
Bit off the topic, but can you send me a link?
Need one, and all that I can find cost more than 1k€.
Thank you.
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Bit off the topic, but can you send me a link?
Need one, and all that I can find cost more than 1k€.
Thank you.
https://www.mantel.com/fr/groupes-route-double-compact (https://www.mantel.com/fr/groupes-route-double-compact)
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ok but what is the best price you find ?
ER9 is about $350 USD and EGR is $300-$350 USD during the sales. I have no interest in Di2 or AXS. If those were still my only options, I'd just stick to mechanical groupsets.
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A couple notes regarding the differences between the EGR and ER9 groupsets. I notice the battery cable port on the EGR seems to place the cable deeper and more secure into the RD. It takes a bit more force to remove the plug. On the ER9 it doesn't go in as deep and is easier to pull out the plug. I'm wondering if that difference might account for the better water ingress protection on the EGR? Though I wouldn't submerge either groupset underwater, but I think I'd be more confident to wash my bike with the EGR groupset.
Also the EGR shift levers feel like a nylon/carbon fiber composite. I'm not sure it's full carbon fiber, but it's definitely not alloy, at least with the shift levers I've received. The shift buttons are also more tactile and there's a distinct clicking sound. Battery holder on the EGR only has 1 cable port. EGR brakes are definitely nicer and are a one piece design. Though it still uses those stupid adapters. I accidentally stripped the thread on my ER9 160mm adapter. Luckily 80 Design Store sent me a replacement, albeit me paying a small postage fee.
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https://www.mantel.com/fr/groupes-route-double-compact (https://www.mantel.com/fr/groupes-route-double-compact)
Interesting price point.
Assuming 100 eur for the crankset (it's branded, but it's only 105, and it's heavy, so i'd rather ride a chinese carbon one myself)
Assuming 80 eur for the cassette (it probably shifts great, but it's heavy, so i put 80 as it's the price of ultralight full steel cassettes i've been buying in china)
Assuming 25 eur for the chain (middle of the road chain)
Assuming 10 eur for the discs (i know they cost more, but the ones on the link aren't ice tech tralala, and so i'll compare them to regular no name OEM steel discs
That's 680 eur for the mini groupset (that price is pretty personal, if you have access to a liquid ebay market, you may be able to sell components at a higher price)
I paid 425 for my er9 groups, and they've all died, so let's add 150 each for a RD. Arguably once the RD died, you ought to buy another one to have a spare ready if you want to keep riding. So it's 575, or 725. Given i've been ghosted by Winow (i strongly suggest you dont give them your business) and that LTWOO support is atrocious, I'd assume that you pay for your spare RD. But some have had more luck than me, and tehnically, i got 2 or 3 replaced under warranty, before i got ghosted and gave up.
So, ER9 has a lower upfront cost, especially if you can get them cheaper as per Jonathanf2 (I think this is geo dependent, the US pays less than Europe for AliX things, i think because they dodge all taxes / VAT, while AliX does pay VAT to the EU), and shipping also probably costs less to the US than EU), and if you order via an aliX store that honours warranties, you may not need to spend extra on RD (although keep in mind that if your RD dies, the warranty process takes weeks from the time your bike stops working to you replacing the RD).
So... interesting price point. Most of my friends are completely hopeless with their bikes, so i can see how paying up more upfront to get shimano (i'm assuming it really does "just works") makes sense for a lot of people.
I've been happy with my er9, when it's working. But they literally all died by now, except 1. that's some atrocious fail rate. The good thing is that everything works reliably, except the RD, and the RD "only" costs 150 eur shipped to my door.
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Interesting price point.
...
So... interesting price point. Most of my friends are completely hopeless with their bikes, so i can see how paying up more upfront to get shimano (i'm assuming it really does "just works") makes sense for a lot of people.
I've been happy with my er9, when it's working. But they literally all died by now, except 1. that's some atrocious fail rate. The good thing is that everything works reliably, except the RD, and the RD "only" costs 150 eur shipped to my door.
do we know what is going wrong with the RD (not waterproof or mechanical failure)?
btw i intrested in your best chinese option (reliable ) for light carbon crankset and cassette
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do we know what is going wrong with the RD (not waterproof or mechanical failure)?
btw i intrested in your best chinese option (reliable ) for light carbon crankset and cassette
no idea. i dont think ltwoo know themselves. it's clearly several reasons / flaws, not just one. the hope is that as time passes, they make it better. i want to believe that newer versions break less than earlier versions.
reliable carbon crankset... i have installed 5 or 6 racework ones, i broke one. if you undertorque and use loctite, they work. the alu rings are very soft. it's on my tractor. i'd buy it again. i think i paid 125 dollars for a full set before shipping. if you pay more than 150 shipped, you're paying too much.
cassette, the alix full steel one that costs c.80-90 eur, it's been discussed a lot on the forum.
General note: aliexpress is increasingly playing with prices, so using discounts is sometimes a good deal, but often, it simply brings the price back down to where it's supposed to be. So it's a skill, it's important to understand the coupons, the sale periods and so on. otherwise you can spend 200 for something that should cost 140. Which isnt the end of the world, but it quickly means you'd be better off buying locally.
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I feel stupid asking about it but can anyone explain how to use the front derailleur?
Both front shifter buttons do exactly the same thing: they loop through four derailleur positions (small -> trim -> large -> trim -> small -> trim, etc.). Even if I alternate between buttons, I still end up running through this loop.
But how do I move back from the trim position? Let's say I'm in a big ring and I shifted to a larger sprocket on the cassette and I wanted to trim the derailleur. I press any button on the shifter and it trims but then if I shift to a harder gear on the cassette and I want to move the front derailleur to the most outbound position. I can't do it since no matter which button I press it shifts to a small ring from the trim position
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I feel stupid asking about it but can anyone explain how to use the front derailleur?
Both front shifter buttons do exactly the same thing: they loop through four derailleur positions (small -> trim -> large -> trim -> small -> trim, etc.). Even if I alternate between buttons, I still end up running through this loop.
But how do I move back from the trim position? Let's say I'm in a big ring and I shifted to a larger sprocket on the cassette and I wanted to trim the derailleur. I press any button on the shifter and it trims but then if I shift to a harder gear on the cassette and I want to move the front derailleur to the most outbound position. I can't do it since no matter which button I press it shifts to a small ring from the trim position
Is your FD set for One Touch operation? If so turn it OFF so it won't loop through. Once set to OFF, you can apply trim when in the bigger or smaller cogs. For example if you're approaching your low gear, you can tap the left upshift button to apply trim. Same goes when in the high gears to apply the trim. Hope that helps!
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Is your FD set for One Touch operation? If so turn it OFF so it won't loop through. Once set to OFF, you can apply trim when in the bigger or smaller cogs. For example if you're approaching your low gear, you can tap the left upshift button to apply trim. Same goes when in the high gears to apply the trim. Hope that helps!
jep, that doesn't help either.
The problem is, even when on touch is off, that you can trim on the big and small chainring but you CAN't "un"trim. You have to go to the other chainring and then back to get out of the trim position.
that said, i don't have any solution to offer.
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do we know what is going wrong with the RD (not waterproof or mechanical failure)?
btw i intrested in your best chinese option (reliable ) for light carbon crankset and cassette
As I mentioned in my ER9 versus EGR comparison post, LTwoo designed the battery cable to seat deeper and more snug into the EGR battery port. I think that might account for why there are less moisture issues with the EGR versus the ER9/X. It takes more force to disconnect the cable. Though it's not known if LTwoo has already tweaked newer ER9/X RDs. I've mentioned on this thread that my 2 ER9 groupsets are running on different firmwares on both the RD and FD. They must apply on-the-fly adjustments in the factory production line.
I'm a big fan of the Riro carbon cranksets in terms of price. I have no issue with the alloy axle, but I'm sub 70kg and I don't put out massive amounts of watts. In terms of road cassettes, the Goldix/ZTTO UL all-steel cassette has been very good. My current 12 speed 11-34t Goldix cassette has been solid. Though I had to try several chains. Shimano chains work alright, but are a bit noisy on the Goldix cassette. I'm now using a KMC X12 chain and shifting has been very good and much more quiet. Also you can't go wrong with a Shimano chain/cassette combo. My other ER9 road bike is running Shimano 11 speed chain/cassette and it shifts excellent.
So, ER9 has a lower upfront cost, especially if you can get them cheaper as per Jonathanf2 (I think this is geo dependent, the US pays less than Europe for AliX things, i think because they dodge all taxes / VAT, while AliX does pay VAT to the EU), and shipping also probably costs less to the US than EU), and if you order via an aliX store that honours warranties, you may not need to spend extra on RD (although keep in mind that if your RD dies, the warranty process takes weeks from the time your bike stops working to you replacing the RD).
So... interesting price point. Most of my friends are completely hopeless with their bikes, so i can see how paying up more upfront to get shimano (i'm assuming it really does "just works") makes sense for a lot of people.
I've been happy with my er9, when it's working. But they literally all died by now, except 1. that's some atrocious fail rate. The good thing is that everything works reliably, except the RD, and the RD "only" costs 150 eur shipped to my door.
US residents only pay local state sales tax. If you live in a sales tax-free state, the savings is even bigger. Though starting next year, US residents might have increased pricing. Even though I've been able to keep my ER9 groupsets working and I even revived a dead RD, I wouldn't recommend the system for the average cyclist. It takes a certain DIYer mentality to get the most out of this groupset. LTwoo needs to invest more in reliability and customer service. All they have to do is take a Wheeltop approach and either sell direct with full warranty support or specify authorized dealer support similar to how 80 Design Store has been stepping up.
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jep, that doesn't help either.
The problem is, even when on touch is off, that you can trim on the big and small chainring but you CAN't "un"trim. You have to go to the other chainring and then back to get out of the trim position.
that said, i don't have any solution to offer.
The LTwoo app requires FD adjustment to be either in the low or high gear settings. I believe from there, manual trim can be applied when riding. Using the app FD adjustment, I haven't had issues with FD rubbing.
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jep, that doesn't help either.
The problem is, even when on touch is off, that you can trim on the big and small chainring but you CAN't "un"trim. You have to go to the other chainring and then back to get out of the trim position.
that said, i don't have any solution to offer.
It does help. I had it in one touch mode or whaever it's called. Once in the normal mode you can trim both ways using upshift button on big ring or downshift on the small ring.
The confusing part is that you can't actually trim back and forth when using the same gear in the back. When you are on a larger sprockets on the cassette you click upshift and it moves the front derailleur closer to the frame. Once you've done that you can't "untrim" unless you shift to a harder gear in the back
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It does help. I had it in one touch mode or whaever it's called. Once in the normal mode you can trim both ways using upshift button on big ring or downshift on the small ring.
The confusing part is that you can't actually trim back and forth when using the same gear in the back. When you are on a larger sprockets on the cassette you click upshift and it moves the front derailleur closer to the frame. Once you've done that you can't "untrim" unless you shift to a harder gear in the back
Apparently the older LTwoo app software had auto-trim enabled, but they removed it most likely due to Shimano patents.
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Ltwoo electronic groupset for TT seem available
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlF2LhmwSlo
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Usual "here is the link post":
http://www.youtube.com/v/GlF2LhmwSlo
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Hi have someone info what lock nut will fit with ltwoo shiffters ? I order shiffters but have only plastic screw :/ from 105 r7000 not fit (too big)
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Hi have someone info what lock nut will fit with ltwoo shiffters ? I order shiffters but have only plastic screw :/ from 105 r7000 not fit (too big)
Lock nut on shifters is different on Shimano shifters. Though you can use the same lock nut screws as the brake calipers on LTwoo shifters.
The BH59 set should fit:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832774106227.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832774106227.html)
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But oil needle and olive head is bh90 right? Or also should be 59?
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I use BH90 hose & barb with no issues.
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But oil needle and olive head is bh90 right? Or also should be 59?
I've used both, but I believe BH59 is what ships with LTwoo hydraulic shifters/calipers.
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Some new videos from L-Twoo showing the new USB-C charging front derailleur. Given the videos perhaps it's getting closer to release?
https://youtu.be/pMWjR3k8LJ4
https://youtu.be/pMWjR3k8LJ4?si=iybdZJWbtMdetUXs
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Some new videos from L-Twoo showing the new USB-C charging front derailleur. Given the videos perhaps it's getting closer to release?
I don't think I like USB-C charging. There are times when I forget I have the charger plugged in and yank the bike from the charging cable. Since it's magnetic, it just comes off. I thought they were going to use USB-C for the battery cables instead. It looks like they're still using the same accessory components.
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Apparently the older LTwoo app software had auto-trim enabled, but they removed it most likely due to Shimano patents.
Can anyone hacked it back in ? :-D
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I don't think I like USB-C charging. There are times when I forget I have the charger plugged in and yank the bike from the charging cable. Since it's magnetic, it just comes off. I thought they were going to use USB-C for the battery cables instead. It looks like they're still using the same accessory components.
From what I understood, it was optional. The rear derailleur still had the magnetic charging disconnect, but the FD had a usb-c just in case you preferred that. At least, that's how it was on the pre-release versions of the hardware. We can only hope it gets released like that in the final version.
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Is there any way to reassign shifter buttons? I want to set the rear shifter to change into a harder gear with a small paddle and easier gear with a big one but it looks like you can only swap shifters between rd and fd in the app and nothing more
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One of my ER9 groupsets just updated to ver. 0.1.7. adding TT button functionality. I guess the TT shifters will be available soon. :)
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One of my ER9 groupsets just updated to ver. 0.1.7. adding TT button functionality. I guess the TT shifters will be available soon. :)
interesting. i'm on ver. 0.1.1 and the app tells me this is the newest version…
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interesting. i'm on ver. 0.1.1 and the app tells me this is the newest version…
I have 2 ER9 groupsets and only one of them is getting the new firmware updates. I have no clue why LTwoo is updating only certain units and not all of them.
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After taking off the LTWOO er9, I put on Sram Rival AXS and clocked the first 100k with it.
I’m using the exact same chain, cassette and chainrings. Rival shifts quieter overall on my setup. Front shifting is better. Never thought I’d say that of a Sram FD. Not having to trim the FD because of the yaw feature is nice. But I gotta say, it’s so close that most of it like ergonomics and Button Feedback is really a matter of taste.
Most of the things that Rival does better comes down to the software. Customisable Multi Shift. The fact that the groupset drops into the small ring if you cross chain too much. The way that the FD overshifts onto the big ring and waits for the chain to drop onto the small ring before it moves all the way in. That could easily be implemented by LTWOO as well but I reckon that patents prevent them from doing it.
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I've used both, but I believe BH59 is what ships with LTwoo hydraulic shifters/calipers.
As long as the barb matches the hose type, it's all good. So if you buy some BH90 replacement hose, get the BH90 barbs to go along with it. The rest is either the same or interchangeable.
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I just picked up an ER9 groupset over the 11.11 sale. Easiest groupset install I have ever done. Tuning and brakes were a breeze. Braking is/was better than my DA Di2 9100 groupset. I found the shifting to be as fast and smooth as
DA or Ultegra previous generation before Shimano moved to 12spd.
As an early adopter of Wheeltop’s wireless groupset, its my opinion that Ltwoo’s shifting, particularly with the FD is much better.
Just want to add I have been following this thread for some time and have avoided Ltwoo based on all the issues documented here. I fully realize that issues can and might possibly arise as I put on the miles. For now, my only complaint about the group is that it is very heavy.
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Have someone problem like me? Charging but in app not show this, show 0% of battery, on second fully charged.same situation. RD show thath battery is łów (2 Red light) and all not work :/ battery tested on second erx and work fine
Damn final solution RD is broken:/ change it with erx and all work fine:/ RD have 2 months
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Have someone problem like me? Charging but in app not show this, show 0% of battery, on second fully charged.same situation. RD show thath battery is łów (2 Red light) and all not work :/ battery tested on second erx and work fine
Damn final solution RD is broken:/ change it with erx and all work fine:/ RD have 2 months
Wipe down the charging port with some alcohol. There could be some dirt interfering with the charging function. Also does your RD and FD function while it's plugged in? Try doing several hard resets while the charging plug is connected to the RD. Also try swapping out your FD and RD cables and see if that works. Unless you had some major water ingress, it could just be a battery issue or it needs a hard reset.
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This is probably a dumb question, has anyone heard when the new ERX will actually become available?
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This is probably a dumb question, has anyone heard when the new ERX will actually become available?
Not a dumb question - it was first shown off more than 9 months ago and L-Twoo have been basically silent on it ever since.
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I'm beginning to think LTwoo is lagging behind Wheeltop. Wheeltop seems to have better regional/warranty support and it appears OEMs are gravitating towards Wheeltop with fully assembled bikes. Not to mention they were able to acquire Rotor. I wonder if LTwoo's private equity is starting to dry up with no fresh funds? On one hand, I think only one Chinese groupset manufacturer will eventually come out on top. On the other hand, the inter-Chinese competition has forced lower prices.
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I'm beginning to think LTwoo is lagging behind Wheeltop. Wheeltop seems to have better regional/warranty support and it appears OEMs are gravitating towards Wheeltop with fully assembled bikes. Not to mention they were able to acquire Rotor. I wonder if LTwoo's private equity is starting to dry up with no fresh funds? On one hand, I think only one Chinese groupset manufacturer will eventually come out on top. On the other hand, the inter-Chinese competition has forced lower prices.
well, wheeltop sponsored many full bike builts with a ready built price for 899 USD ....
We worked with ltwoo in order to establish the brand for being ready to equip oem bikes with the groupset....they messed up everything...we also have spoken to a couple of distributors who were basically turned down just by ghosting them, some visited the factory and came home frustrated..
So currently, i do see wheeltop ahead by miles..we need to see, how they work out the patent with flat mount brakes and other things which need to be settled to sell the product legally in EU regions....
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well, wheeltop sponsored many full bike builts with a ready built price for 899 USD ....
We worked with ltwoo in order to establish the brand for being ready to equip oem bikes with the groupset....they messed up everything...we also have spoken to a couple of distributors who were basically turned down just by ghosting them, some visited the factory and came home frustrated..
So currently, i do see wheeltop ahead by miles..we need to see, how they work out the patent with flat mount brakes and other things which need to be settled to sell the product legally in EU regions....
Wheeltop has established a distribution network in the US with warranty service, so I'd presume the flat mount patent should be something they can deal with in Europe. Also I'm still not convinced with the fixed battery solution. Though Magene is the other big player coming into market, so it's not yet determined who'll come out on top. Though Shimano could probably lower prices for 105 Di2! Either way competition is good! ;D
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Wheeltop has established a distribution network in the US with warranty service, so I'd presume the flat mount patent should be something they can deal with in Europe. Also I'm still not convinced with the fixed battery solution. Though Magene is the other big player coming into market, so it's not yet determined who'll come out on top. Though Shimano could probably lower prices for 105 Di2! Either way competition is good! ;D
Fair point, the warranty and distributor network might help them a lot.
For Magene do we have any news on the groupset? Saw the video of Joe about it, but nothing more later on.
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Fair point, the warranty and distributor network might help them a lot.
For Magene do we have any news on the groupset? Saw the video of Joe about it, but nothing more later on.
Asked them some weeks ago, Magene said the groupset is currently only available in China.
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Asked them some weeks ago, Magene said the groupset is currently only available in China.
That is still strange. If it were (only) available in china, I would still expect to see or hear tell of it somewhere. Videos, photos, blogs, etc. Unless they're all exclusively on chinese media and website and haven't made it to any english media or websites, but still strange, I think. The only hits popping up on a google search are all from May or June of last year.
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Not sure if this is related, but I was emailing Magene last week regarding their powermeter and they mentioned that a new version of PES P505 and their powermeter pedals will be released in May. Perhaps they intend to release it together?
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That is still strange. If it were (only) available in china, I would still expect to see or hear tell of it somewhere. Videos, photos, blogs, etc. Unless they're all exclusively on chinese media and website and haven't made it to any english media or websites, but still strange, I think. The only hits popping up on a google search are all from May or June of last year.
This was posted on the forum here back in November when it was launched:
https://www.163.com/dy/article/JEPEACTI0538OBFN.html
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Not sure if this is related, but I was emailing Magene last week regarding their powermeter and they mentioned that a new version of PES P505 and their powermeter pedals will be released in May. Perhaps they intend to release it together?
May would coincide with the China Cycle show so I'd expect they intend to show them off there.
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That is still strange. If it were (only) available in china, I would still expect to see or hear tell of it somewhere. Videos, photos, blogs, etc. Unless they're all exclusively on chinese media and website and haven't made it to any english media or websites, but still strange, I think. The only hits popping up on a google search are all from May or June of last year.
cycling media is clueless about equipment in general, all most of them are good for is regurgitating the talking points of marketing departments
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Has anyone swapped out their 12t/11t jockey wheels for Ultegra 11t/11t wheels on their ER9? I'm running one of my ER9 setups with 50-34/11-34t and I've been getting chain drops with this setup on 50km/30mph plus bumpy downhills. On my other ER9 52-36/11-32t setup, this isn't an issue. I'm guessing this is why 11-32t is the official in-spec max cassette size. I wanted to see if going down to 11t on the lower jockey wheel might help mitigate the chain drop issue by allowing me to move the cage closer to the cassette. I'll report back if this might help.
BTW - I'm staying with the ER9 reversed lower/upper jockey wheel configuration (compared to Shimano). I'm not sure why LTwoo does it this way. Even the EGR has this configuration, but it seems to shift fine.
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Guys, running ERX for 4 month now, so far working but with annoying message from Garmin everytime that the shifter battery is low.
I run into issues with wet weather and cold temperatures. Battery died quickly, although the App/Derailleur shows that the battery is fully charged.
It seems that using the App leads to incorrect charging, so do not try to read the battery status with the App. Just plug the cable into the RD and let it charge.
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The battery status in the app was pretty accurate for me at least after one or two charges. The low battery warning on the head unit however is a well documented bug that hasn’t been fixed yet. It happened on my Wahoo, too. The only way to stop it is to disconnect the groupset from the head unit.
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Guys, running ERX for 4 month now, so far working but with annoying message from Garmin everytime that the shifter battery is low.
I run into issues with wet weather and cold temperatures. Battery died quickly, although the App/Derailleur shows that the battery is fully charged.
It seems that using the App leads to incorrect charging, so do not try to read the battery status with the App. Just plug the cable into the RD and let it charge.
Did the battery die to the point that it couldn't shift? Or, were you just using the head unit's warning as the indicator that it died?
All of the Ltwoo groupsets seem to report bad battery data to the head units, but for me the app has never indicated anything other than reality. What the app says is true, what the head unit says is likely not.
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Sorry for the lack of clarity!
@jonathanf2: I’m aware that the warning from the head unit is a bug; I just wanted to mention it.
@amalcal1: My battery dies suddenly, and I couldn’t shift.
Let me explain the issue in more detail:
It first started when I wanted to ride home, but the battery was dead. This was surprising because just a few hours earlier, I finished a ride without any problems.
I charged the battery, and the solid green lights appeared very quickly. That’s when I started checking with the app.
The app showed the battery at 100%, but when I disconnected and reconnected the app (without the charging cable), it dropped to about 8%.
When I reattached the cable, the solid green light came back quickly, and the app again showed 100%.
It got so bad that I could only shift gears once or twice before it stopped working, even though the charging cable had shown a solid green light.
So, I left the app closed, attached the cable after the rear derailleur went idle, and it started blinking green. However, whenever I opened the app, the green light turned solid again.
After charging (attach the charging cable when the derailleur is in idle mode) without opening the app, the green light stayed blinking and only turned solid after 2-3 hours.
This is why I suspect there might also be an issue with the app.
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Sorry for the lack of clarity!
@jonathanf2: I’m aware that the warning from the head unit is a bug; I just wanted to mention it.
@amalcal1: My battery dies suddenly, and I couldn’t shift.
Let me explain the issue in more detail:
It first started when I wanted to ride home, but the battery was dead. This was surprising because just a few hours earlier, I finished a ride without any problems.
I charged the battery, and the solid green lights appeared very quickly. That’s when I started checking with the app.
The app showed the battery at 100%, but when I disconnected and reconnected the app (without the charging cable), it dropped to about 8%.
When I reattached the cable, the solid green light came back quickly, and the app again showed 100%.
It got so bad that I could only shift gears once or twice before it stopped working, even though the charging cable had shown a solid green light.
So, I left the app closed, attached the cable after the rear derailleur went idle, and it started blinking green. However, whenever I opened the app, the green light turned solid again.
After charging (attach the charging cable when the derailleur is in idle mode) without opening the app, the green light stayed blinking and only turned solid after 2-3 hours.
This is why I suspect there might also be an issue with the app.
Any chance you have a bad battery / cell? Any way you could pull them out and check them with a battery tester or multimeter?
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FWIW, having broken too many ER9 to keep count, i can recommend https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/size/14500.html as a source for batteries. I bought several pairs of "EagleTac 14500 750mAh - 2A", and they are so much better than the batteries i had originally. I have never used the original ltwoo batteries.
These batteries hold their charge soooooo much longer, it's day and night. they were ~5 eur each, and shipping was ~10 eur, so ideally, you have friends who need batteries too to avoid paying 20 eur for 2 small batteries.
Now, these batteries dont prevent RDs from self destructing for no reason (aka "the ltwoo guarantee"), but your group is much less likely to die mid ride because the batteries dont hold a charge well, and shifting is more reliable, crisper, because the battery isn't $hit.
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From my experience there’s basically three sources of battery problems:
1. The batteries themselves obviously which can only really be verified with a testing unit. I bought a testing/charging device and all my batteries turned out to be well within spec.
2. Connectivity issues between the charging port and charging cable. Clean that port on the RD well with alcohol. Any dirt and contact issues can lead to weird behaviour upon charging. I even had the battery discharge instead of charge when the connection was less than perfect.
3. If none of that is an issue and all the cables are perfectly attached, no moisture or water ingress, then the RD is probably to blame. Because it’s the brain of the whole system and manages charging.
Ok. That was more than three problems. But you get the idea.
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Its either the battery or the RD. I didn't do a capacity test, but when the app tells that the battery is full, I measured the voltage and it was 4.1 for each cell.
Again, brought back bike after 5km only today, put cable on and removed it after green light came up continuously. Then open the app, and status was 86%.
If I attach the cable again (RD didn't go into idle), green light appears continuously (battery full).
But after I wait until RD goes into idle and then attach the cable, it is blinking and charging further for a while.
Anyway, I don't bother to debug anymore, will replace it with Shimano soon.
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Any chance it could be a phantom drain? Mine did that and it turned out the rear derailleur wouldnt sleep or something and kept draining the battery. Got it warrantied and 80 Designer Store sent me a new derailleur
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Probably both, IdK. Today it starts to flashing red and green, and when attaching the charger it turns into a solid green. No description of those alternative flashing between red and green can be found in the manual...
But all points to battery, bc this behavior happens when I come back from outside... in the morning, when the bike stays in the warmth overnight it starts the charge again.
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Probably both, IdK. Today it starts to flashing red and green, and when attaching the charger it turns into a solid green. No description of those alternative flashing between red and green can be found in the manual...
But all points to battery, bc this behavior happens when I come back from outside... in the morning, when the bike stays in the warmth overnight it starts the charge again.
Have you tried cleaning the port? Like both the charger and where the thing clips on. Alcohol lens wipe? When mine got a little dirty it didn't want to be charged. I just cleaned it and it was all good. Yea not having any kind of rubber dirt cover was an oversight
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Anyone receive the TT trigger updates for the app? I've been cruising Chinese social media and it looks like the LTwoo TT equipment will launch very soon (or maybe it has already) and so will the new ER9/X groupset as well. Having compared the EGR and the original ER9, the small improvements with the EGR are noticeable. More recessed RD port for better water sealing, better brake caliper performance, better shifting haptics and slightly longer shift levers at the ends (maybe 1cm longer).
I'm also interested in the new FD design. The original ER9 FD works, but it's still not as good as a Shimano FD. Plus I wonder if Shimano has a patent on FD plastic skid plates? My ER9 FDs are starting to brass. Compared to my Shimano FDs with skid plates, they still look practically brand new.
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Has anyone swapped out their 12t/11t jockey wheels for Ultegra 11t/11t wheels on their ER9? I'm running one of my ER9 setups with 50-34/11-34t and I've been getting chain drops with this setup on 50km/30mph plus bumpy downhills. On my other ER9 52-36/11-32t setup, this isn't an issue. I'm guessing this is why 11-32t is the official in-spec max cassette size. I wanted to see if going down to 11t on the lower jockey wheel might help mitigate the chain drop issue by allowing me to move the cage closer to the cassette. I'll report back if this might help.
BTW - I'm staying with the ER9 reversed lower/upper jockey wheel configuration (compared to Shimano). I'm not sure why LTwoo does it this way. Even the EGR has this configuration, but it seems to shift fine.
I'm just quoting myself here, but I did switch out my jockey wheels and eventually went with the appropriate Shimano Ultegra upper and lower jockey wheel configuration. I was able to place my ER9 RD cage as low as possible and I did notice slightly better chain stability on fast/bumpy downhill descents with no chain drops. It was an issue previously using the stock 12t lower and 11t upper LTwoo jockey wheels. On my other ER9 52-36t/11-32t setup, chain drops isn't an issue on very bumpy terrain. This is why it had me wondering what could possibly be the difference between the two configurations and I figured it probably had something to do with the cage setup. I'd highly recommend switching to an 11/11t jockey wheel configuration using an 11-34t cassette to get the closest optimal performance.
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Just found more pics of the ER9 TT setup and a close-up of the USB-C FD charging port. Looks like ZRace might also be supplying their new XG4 4 piston calipers with the new TT groupset.
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no shifting buttons on the brake units, big miss
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no shifting buttons on the brake units, big miss
I don't do TT so I wouldn't
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https://www.yoeleocanada.com/products/ltwoo-er9-tt-groupset?srsltid=AfmBOoqizsWZYpjnsr6Ix0HwuACJG5ifsoxc1uYkXyLe1pSNDAYeDVSS
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I have chain dropping issue when shifting on the large front ring.
If i set limit so that it just raises chain to the largest rim it still jumps often over it.
I’m starting to think there have to be something wrong in my FD. At least that software limit is a joke, if this should ”limit” derailleur like that. See linked video.
https://streamable.com/ojur8m (https://streamable.com/ojur8m)
It moves even more when chain is off. Now movement is limited by hitting a chain and ring.
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I have chain dropping issue when shifting on the large front ring.
If i set limit so that it just raises chain to the largest rim it still jumps often over it.
I’m starting to think there have to be something wrong in my FD. At least that software limit is a joke, if this should ”limit” derailleur like that. See linked video.
https://streamable.com/ojur8m (https://streamable.com/ojur8m)
It moves even more when chain is off. Now movement is limited by hitting a chain and ring.
in my experience, and i hate setting FDs with such passion, it's because you're incompetent. Like it's virtually never the FD's fault, it's almost always because you dont know what you're doing.
I've installed 5 ER9, and when set / INSTALLED properly, it works fine, there's no evil leprechaun hidden in the software playing with your mind and dropping the chain to spite you.
i have almost thrown bikes out of the window multiple times because of FDs i couldnt set properly. then after not working long enough, it ends up working and you're like "oh, thaaaat". and then it works. And sometimes there's no ah ha moment, but it just starts working, because somehow you fixed it and you dont know why.
So, keep grinding, you'll probably figure it out :)
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So that slack is normal? If so then i’ll continue fighting.
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Getting your FD as close as possible in the big/small setting will allow you to adjust the small/big much better. Also if you're pushing the cassette beyond 11-32t, using Ultegra 11/11t jockey wheels is highly recommended.
I found the best shift combination to be Shimano chainrings, chain and cassette. With aftermarket cassettes, I found better shift performance with KMC chains. I don't particularly like the LTwoo FD. When the new ER9/X components come out, I'll definitely look to try the new FD out (if I can buy it separately) since it has a new design.
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Anyone succesfully fitted an aftermarket ospw on this groupset?
Found this on ali: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005008224730828.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.10.2093t89it89i9W&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40196.366991.0&scm_id=1007.40196.366991.0&scm-url=1007.40196.366991.0&pvid=2f9e3036-c5b7-4712-a904-4f35e5790528&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.40196.366991.0%2Cpvid%3A2f9e3036-c5b7-4712-a904-4f35e5790528%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238112%231997&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21113.43%2152.18%21%21%21826.16%21380.03%21%402103010b17374213512804797ef348%2112000044294516591%21rec%21US%21185657359%21XZ&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt#nav-review
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Nope. I expect Wheeltop will have their OSPW out before LTwoo. I think LTwoo is more focused on getting their TT groupset ready to launch.
Anyone succesfully fitted an aftermarket ospw on this groupset?
Found this on ali: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005008224730828.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.10.2093t89it89i9W&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40196.366991.0&scm_id=1007.40196.366991.0&scm-url=1007.40196.366991.0&pvid=2f9e3036-c5b7-4712-a904-4f35e5790528&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.40196.366991.0%2Cpvid%3A2f9e3036-c5b7-4712-a904-4f35e5790528%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238112%231997&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21113.43%2152.18%21%21%21826.16%21380.03%21%402103010b17374213512804797ef348%2112000044294516591%21rec%21US%21185657359%21XZ&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt#nav-review
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Sticky buttons on right shifter happened again! Went out and rode in about 32 degrees Fahrenheit and the right shifter got stuck and this time it stayed stuck the whole for the whole ride. Used the app to swap the shifters so left would shift the rear but still with the crosschain protection setting, I was stuck in the 3rd biggest cog in the back and the big ring up front as my lowest gear and there were quite a few double digit climbs today. I guess I needed to do some low cadence work anyways but dang I would've liked to have had a say in it...
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Sticky buttons on right shifter happened again! Went out and rode in about 32 degrees Fahrenheit and the right shifter got stuck and this time it stayed stuck the whole for the whole ride. Used the app to swap the shifters so left would shift the rear but still with the crosschain protection setting, I was stuck in the 3rd biggest cog in the back and the big ring up front as my lowest gear and there were quite a few double digit climbs today. I guess I needed to do some low cadence work anyways but dang I would've liked to have had a say in it...
I saw on YT that someone had a similar sounding problem. had to do with the little springs that actuate the button / paddle being misplaced, i think there are 2, and if one jumps out, problems happen. It looked fairly straightforward to open the thing and put the springs back in place. Can't remember if it was the nero show, trace velo, or some other channel.
I'm currently getting poor shifting quality, but i think it's because i m using thick winter gloves and i dont really know where i'm pressing.
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Got another bike with shimano and it takes a while to realise I have to press alot harder on shimano. These things are so soft to shift.
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I saw on YT that someone had a similar sounding problem. had to do with the little springs that actuate the button / paddle being misplaced, i think there are 2, and if one jumps out, problems happen. It looked fairly straightforward to open the thing and put the springs back in place. Can't remember if it was the nero show, trace velo, or some other channel.
I'm currently getting poor shifting quality, but i think it's because i m using thick winter gloves and i dont really know where i'm pressing.
I actually did that same spring fix last winter when I first encountered the problem. Something else is happening here. Put the bike in the house for thirty minutes and then shifting came back once bike warmed up.
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LTwoo seems like they're trying to clear out 1st gen ER9 inventory, the new ER9 has already been shown paired with the new TT levers. I think the 2nd gen ER9 will be much better, especially with my experience using the EGR. The EGR shift levers are that much better especially with button haptics and being slightly longer. Also water isn't an issue. I wash my EGR gravel bike after every ride and have been caught in a rain storm.
One thing I've noticed having talked to local cyclists in China (on social media), LTwoo isn't popular there at all, with complaints about ergonomics and reliability. It seems most cyclists in China prefer Shimano! ;D
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LTwoo seems like they're trying to clear out 1st gen ER9 inventory, the new ER9 has already been shown paired with the new TT levers. I think the 2nd gen ER9 will be much better, especially with my experience using the EGR. The EGR shift levers are that much better especially with button haptics and being slightly longer. Also water isn't an issue. I wash my EGR gravel bike after every ride and have been caught in a rain storm.
One thing I've noticed having talked to local cyclists in China (on social media), LTwoo isn't popular there at all, with complaints about ergonomics and reliability. It seems most cyclists in China prefer Shimano! ;D
I had a warranty claim that was handled by 80 Designer store last year because of a phantom drain on the rear derailleur after being caught in a rain storm and was pretty happy with how smoothly that went. That said, i'm pretty annoyed with this sticky button right now. I may be tempted to try out the EGR for my next build or a new ER9 if they release it in time but i dunno. Like I don't mind troubleshooting things and figuring things out but reliability is definitely important on my list.
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I had a warranty claim that was handled by 80 Designer store last year because of a phantom drain on the rear derailleur after being caught in a rain storm and was pretty happy with how smoothly that went. That said, i'm pretty annoyed with this sticky button right now. I may be tempted to try out the EGR for my next build or a new ER9 if they release it in time but i dunno. Like I don't mind troubleshooting things and figuring things out but reliability is definitely important on my list.
I have zero complaints about the EGR. The better weather sealing, brake calipers, shifters and RD performance are all much more refined. I paid $300 for my EGR.
Yeah 80 Design store is super legit. At this point, they're LTwoo's international warranty and customer service front! ;D
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I have zero complaints about the EGR. The better weather sealing, brake calipers, shifters and RD performance are all much more refined. I paid $300 for my EGR.
Yeah 80 Design store is super legit. At this point, they're LTwoo's international warranty and customer service front! ;D
are the ergonomics of the EGR and ER9 brifters the same? Like can I just get an EGR right shifter and it'l feel the same like my left ER9? hahahaha
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are the ergonomics of the EGR and ER9 brifters the same? Like can I just get an EGR right shifter and it'l feel the same like my left ER9? hahahaha
The EGR shift levers are just slightly longer. The difference is barely noticeable (maybe 1cm), but you can feel it when riding the drops. The EGR shift buttons require more pressure to shift as well. They feel/sound more clicky. They are different enough they might be awkward mis-matching them with ER9 levers. ;)
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The EGR shift levers are just slightly longer. The difference is barely noticeable (maybe 1cm), but you can feel it when riding the drops. The EGR shift buttons require more pressure to shift as well. They feel/sound more clicky. They are different enough they might be awkward mis-matching them with ER9 levers. ;)
Good to know... I just shot a DM to 80 Designer Store to see if they have any solutions. Temperatures are starting to rise again out here but i'd rather not have to face this again next year.
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Good to know... I just shot a DM to 80 Designer Store to see if they have any solutions. Temperatures are starting to rise again out here but i'd rather not have to face this again next year.
FYI, the eGR shifter is likely not immune to this issue, entirely. I've had issues with my right shifter (i.e. the only shifter I use since the eGR is 1x) being quite sticky. One of my buttons feels like it no longer has much spring back on the lever. It feels, to my finger feel, like most of the return force comes from the button itself. The lever frequently gets stuck near the button, but it's not really a problem because the button doesn't actually get stuck - it's just that the lever doesn't fully return to where my finger expects it.
Maybe the difference is that the eGR has a much more tactile and "clicky" button under the lever, so the button itself is just a little better at pushing the lever back. That's what it feels like to me.
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FYI, the eGR shifter is likely not immune to this issue, entirely. I've had issues with my right shifter (i.e. the only shifter I use since the eGR is 1x) being quite sticky. One of my buttons feels like it no longer has much spring back on the lever. It feels, to my finger feel, like most of the return force comes from the button itself. The lever frequently gets stuck near the button, but it's not really a problem because the button doesn't actually get stuck - it's just that the lever doesn't fully return to where my finger expects it.
Maybe the difference is that the eGR has a much more tactile and "clicky" button under the lever, so the button itself is just a little better at pushing the lever back. That's what it feels like to me.
Last year when I had the issue it was like you described where the button didn't spring back into the original position. This year since I've opened it up and stretch the spring like Trace Velo, the button returns but it still thinks it's being pushed. Something is contracting under the cold temperatures keeping it stuck and it happens at freezing temps seems like. Yea we'll see what 80DesignerStore and Ltwoo says. Responses are probably going to be a little slow seeing as it's Chinese New Year right now but I'll keep ya'll posted as I get updates...
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80 Designer Store has gotten back to me and I guess they're talking to LTwoo... i sent them a strava ride i did where the temps were around 32 degrees where the button got stuck and another ride a few days later where it was 55 degrees and the button was fine again. Waiting to hear back...
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I wonder if moisture is getting trapped in your shifter assembly, which then freezes in the cold temps causing the shifters to get stuck? I do a lot of climbing and descending, so I'm constantly shifting throughout the gear range. At least in the 40 degree + range, it's not an issue. Maybe you can coat the shifter spring assemble with some sort of anti-moisture lubricant?
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I wonder if moisture is getting trapped in your shifter assembly, which then freezes in the cold temps causing the shifters to get stuck? I do a lot of climbing and descending, so I'm constantly shifting throughout the gear range. At least in the 40 degree + range, it's not an issue. Maybe you can coat the shifter spring assemble with some sort of anti-moisture lubricant?
I doubt it's moisture and actual ice... the buttons were still clicking this last round. It just thought the big paddle was constantly being pressed. I think some thing is contracting at the cold temps that's not allowing the thing to return to where it needs to be? I've no idea... just gotta wait to see what 80DesignerStore and LTwoo say.
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Panda Podium listing the 2025 'blue' eRX version in stock:
https://www.pandapodium.cc/product/l-twoo-2025-erx-road-electronic-hydraulic-disc-brake-groupset/
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Panda Podium listing the 2025 'blue' eRX version in stock:
https://www.pandapodium.cc/product/l-twoo-2025-erx-road-electronic-hydraulic-disc-brake-groupset/
Wondering if they've updated stuff since Jesse Coyle ran them a while ago for Panda Podium to have enough confidence to put them on their site
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Wondering if they've updated stuff since Jesse Coyle ran them a while ago for Panda Podium to have enough confidence to put them on their site
I feel that rear derailleurs have largely stopped randomly dying, so I think that they've done incremental improvements all along, not just because it's a new version. I'm pretty sure the first gen I installed is different from the first gen people were getting 6 or 12 months later.
Fwiw, I'm building a bike for a friend, he went for the er9, knowing that it might just die, so we'll probably buy him a spare RD and count that insurance policy in the build cost.
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I feel that rear derailleurs have largely stopped randomly dying, so I think that they've done incremental improvements all along, not just because it's a new version. I'm pretty sure the first gen I installed is different from the first gen people were getting 6 or 12 months later.
Fwiw, I'm building a bike for a friend, he went for the er9, knowing that it might just die, so we'll probably buy him a spare RD and count that insurance policy in the build cost.
So far all my ER9 RDs are still working, even the one I thought died, but came back to life. That little bit of dielectric grease helps a lot for weather proofing. My EGR has been working great and the updated ERX has all the minor improvements especially the new brake calipers.
The only thing I don't like about the LTwoo groupset is the FD. Shifting is okay, but compared to my previous Ultegra/GRX mechanical FDs, it's nowhere as good. Also I wish the LTwoo FD had a skid plate, my FDs are looking worn out. I read Wheeltop users were able to fit a Shimano skid plate onto the EDS TX FD, but not sure it's possible with LTwoo.
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The only thing I don't like about the LTwoo groupset is the FD. Shifting is okay, but compared to my previous Ultegra/GRX mechanical FDs, it's nowhere as good. Also I wish the LTwoo FD had a skid plate, my FDs are looking worn out. I read Wheeltop users were able to fit a Shimano skid plate onto the EDS TX FD, but not sure it's possible with LTwoo.
I've actually been pretty impressed with the front derailleur shifting of my er9. Wonder though if it's to do with the shimano chainrings on the GRX cranks?
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I've actually been pretty impressed with the front derailleur shifting of my er9. Wonder though if it's to do with the shimano chainrings on the GRX cranks?
The ER9 FD shifting does the job, but I still feel the Shimano FD to be superior in terms of durability and adjustability. I have to put more effort to make sure the FD is set right and I still use a chain catcher. My Shimano Ultegra/GRX FDs were so good, no chain catcher was ever necessary. I do lots of climbing and descents on bumpy terrain, so it's something I'm mindful about. I also found switching to Ultegra jockey wheels and using the Shimano upper/lower pulley wheel orientation to help as well. LTwoo ER9 upper/lower pulley wheels are reversed and I found the chain is more apt to going off-track if you over shift.
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I'm really excited for the TT brake and shifters LTWOO had on display at the Shanghai bike show. Maybe I'll be able to build an electric shifting tri bike under 8k aud
i thought i seen a build insta post somewhere with this TT groupset,cant find it now typically
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i thought i seen a build insta post somewhere with this TT groupset,cant find it now typically
Here's what I've found. :)
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Here's what I've found. :)
This has my name on it for 2026 season :D
When it becomes widely available, y'all please post and keep us updated here :)
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blue edition is probably can buy on aliexpress
80 design store
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heres hoping they offer blip/climber switches we can mount anywhere.
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This has my name on it for 2026 season :D
When it becomes widely available, y'all please post and keep us updated here :)
Did your ER9 firmware and LTwoo app software update with blip compatibility? Only one of my ER9 groupsets updated, while the other one did not. It your ER9 did update, it's possible you can just get the TT shifters/levers and use your current hardware.
Also I've been cruising Chinese social media (using translation algorithms). The new ERX has already been released over there. They also seem to be referring to the new ERX as the blue edition (or blue print). Interestingly enough they have the same concerns about LTwoo in regards to after sales support, durability and cost value compared to 105 Di2.
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I just pulled the trigger on the new edition of eRX from 80 Design Store, which has been very responsive. This is my second purchase from them and previously it was the eR9. I need a new set for my new bike, so I figured to take advantage of the currently running AliExpress promotions. Here are some images for the new eRX. You would notice the new hood shape, which now looks more like Shimano's. I hope this will improve the ergonomic of the shifters.
If anyone is interested, I saw this link from Baidu with more images - https://tieba.baidu.com/p/9320586786
Looks like the new eRX is heavier than the previous one. If it is for all the improvement, I am all for it.
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Also I've been cruising Chinese social media (using translation algorithms). The new ERX has already been released over there. They also seem to be referring to the new ERX as the blue edition (or blue print). Interestingly enough they have the same concerns about LTwoo in regards to after sales support, durability and cost value compared to 105 Di2.
Blueprint is just the translation of L-Twoo's Chinese name - 蓝图 or lántú
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Did your ER9 firmware and LTwoo app software update with blip compatibility? Only one of my ER9 groupsets updated, while the other one did not. It your ER9 did update, it's possible you can just get the TT shifters/levers and use your current hardware.
Also I've been cruising Chinese social media (using translation algorithms). The new ERX has already been released over there. They also seem to be referring to the new ERX as the blue edition (or blue print). Interestingly enough they have the same concerns about LTwoo in regards to after sales support, durability and cost value compared to 105 Di2.
I've been doing very little riding, so haven't updated anything in many weeks, because stuff has simply been working. I replaced my RD at the end of the season because it half died, i had a spare, and didnt have the patience to try to figure out the problem (pure case of kicking the can down the road).
Very interesting about the chinese market reporting the same concerns and problems as the west, thank you for that...
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I just pulled the trigger on the new edition of eRX from 80 Design Store, which has been very responsive. This is my second purchase from them and previously it was the eR9. I need a new set for my new bike, so I figured to take advantage of the currently running AliExpress promotions. Here are some images for the new eRX. You would notice the new hood shape, which now looks more like Shimano's. I hope this will improve the ergonomic of the shifters.
If anyone is interested, I saw this link from Baidu with more images - https://tieba.baidu.com/p/9320586786
Looks like the new eRX is heavier than the previous one. If it is for all the improvement, I am all for it.
do you try to syncronize something for new erx with old. like new fd with old shifters? is that possible?
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do you try to syncronize something for new erx with old. like new fd with old shifters? is that possible?
Curious about this aswell, would solve shitty RD problems for alot of ppl.
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do you try to syncronize something for new erx with old. like new fd with old shifters? is that possible?
there's virtually no difference between ER9 and ERX. I put an ERX RD on a ER9 group, without even thinking about it. From there, newer versions should work with older versions. The blue edition stuff, idk, as, afaik, the charging port is now on the FD, not RD, so idk if that's cross compatible (although it still might be). If someone has free returns on Alix and cares to experiment, would be interesting.
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in his new video trace velo indicate that LTwoo will not be selling the blue edition but go for the 3.0 version instead with USB-C and other stuff, no release date announced but he believe later this year.
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in his new video trace velo indicate that LTwoo will not be selling the blue edition but go for the 3.0 version instead with USB-C and other stuff, no release date announced but he believe later this year.
he got confused. the blue version already has the usbc port on the fd and is already on sale on pandapodium. there is no version 3.0, except for next year, since the blue edition came out in spring last year.
at least, I think so
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There's several. the first "blue edition" that was shown and nicknamed by Joe was more like a prototype, but it wasn't officially acknowledged by ltwoo as anything. The new one is called "blue" something by ltwoo and is probably the 3.0
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do you try to syncronize something for new erx with old. like new fd with old shifters? is that possible?
The groupset is still on its way to me. I can check when I get them on my hands and report back.
So, I believe the new version Trace was referring is the one I just placed the order for. It is the same to what PandaPodium also sells. The new version does have updated hood shape, in addition to the new button layout.
I was also debating if I should wait for the new Magene groupset to be out for sale outside of China. The new extra button will be a nice change, but I need a groupset now and I am not sure if I want to beta test other new groupset. It's not that I expect a perfect second (third?) edition from Ltwoo would be perfert, but I assume Ltwoo has learned a thing or two from the previous ones. Also, my two eR9s somehow are still going strong.
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The groupset is still on its way to me. I can check when I get them on my hands and report back.
So, I believe the new version Trace was referring is the one I just placed the order for. It is the same to what PandaPodium also sells. The new version does have updated hood shape, in addition to the new button layout.
I was also debating if I should wait for the new Magene groupset to be out for sale outside of China. The new extra button will be a nice change, but I need a groupset now and I am not sure if I want to beta test other new groupset. It's not that I expect a perfect second (third?) edition from Ltwoo would be perfert, but I assume Ltwoo has learned a thing or two from the previous ones. Also, my two eR9s somehow are still going strong.
for now no news on magene so your best bet is wheeltop or Ltwoo if you need one right now.
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is there really anybody participating in tt events and risking it with ltwoo components?
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can anyone explain how to set up the front derailleur, please?
I find it really confusing and can get rid of the rubbing.
1) FD cage on ER9 i really narrow for some reason and when I set up "limits" the chain starts rubbing on the inner plate before i can move the outer plate to required 0.5mm.
2) I can't understand when the derailleur moves to those limit positions? when i change the gear or when I changed the gear, i'm in the hardest gear and click trim?
3) What front derailleur "micro adjusting" means? Whatever I set up it feels like the derailleur ends up in some random positions anyway.
4) I can't undestand how the trim works. When I'm in a big ring I can click trim and it moves the derailleur but where? The micro adjust position that I set up?
5) I also can't untrim which is annoying. I often end up in a situation when the chain rubs, I click trim and it starts rubbing even harder but now that I can't undo it I have to shift in the rear, click trim and then shift back to the gear I was in before.
I've been riding it for 2 days only at this point so maybe I will eventually figure it out but at the moment the way the FD works is a mistery for me.
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is there really anybody participating in tt events and risking it with ltwoo components?
It's a hard sell when a SRAM 1x TT setup is pretty cheap.
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especially as, from what I've seen so far, ltwoo only comes with one set of controls, the inserts for the end of the extension bars. So no shifting while out of the extensions and only compatible with traditional round, "pole" extensions.
Just trading in everything from performance to usability for some cost reduction
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5) I also can't untrim which is annoying. I often end up in a situation when the chain rubs, I click trim and it starts rubbing even harder but now that I can't undo it I have to shift in the rear, click trim and then shift back to the gear I was in before.
I've been riding it for 2 days only at this point so maybe I will eventually figure it out but at the moment the way the FD works is a mistery for me.
i had the same problem but after an update fix that. now doesnt need to go in small gear and back to big . if i press the same bottom again makes trimming depending on what gear it is at
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can anyone explain how to set up the front derailleur, please?
I find it really confusing and can get rid of the rubbing.
1) FD cage on ER9 i really narrow for some reason and when I set up "limits" the chain starts rubbing on the inner plate before i can move the outer plate to required 0.5mm.
2) I can't understand when the derailleur moves to those limit positions? when i change the gear or when I changed the gear, i'm in the hardest gear and click trim?
3) What front derailleur "micro adjusting" means? Whatever I set up it feels like the derailleur ends up in some random positions anyway.
4) I can't undestand how the trim works. When I'm in a big ring I can click trim and it moves the derailleur but where? The micro adjust position that I set up?
5) I also can't untrim which is annoying. I often end up in a situation when the chain rubs, I click trim and it starts rubbing even harder but now that I can't undo it I have to shift in the rear, click trim and then shift back to the gear I was in before.
I've been riding it for 2 days only at this point so maybe I will eventually figure it out but at the moment the way the FD works is a mistery for me.
First adjust the FD on the lowest gear adjustment and next the highest gear adjustment. Once that's complete, adjust individual cogs starting from the highest gear in the small chainring. That should be good enough to insure the big chainring will shift well. Make sure your limit screws are properly adjusted as well. I have 2 ER9s and I have both FDs properly setup.
Saying that, I still think the LTwoo FD is the weakest link in terms of design and it just annoys me that there's no skid plate to keep the FD cage from brassing.
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First adjust the FD on the lowest gear adjustment and next the highest gear adjustment. Once that's complete, adjust individual cogs starting from the highest gear in the small chainring. That should be good enough to insure the big chainring will shift well. Make sure your limit screws are properly adjusted as well. I have 2 ER9s and I have both FDs properly setup.
Saying that, I still think the LTwoo FD is the weakest link in terms of design and it just annoys me that there's no skid plate to keep the FD cage from brassing.
when I open front derailleur setup I have a "micro adjust" slider. what does it do? Is it supposed to set the derailleur position for each individual cog in the rear when I use trim? Because I don't think that is what's happening. When I navigate to limit setting and set the limit for the hardest gear and go back, the "micro adjust slider" is now set to whatever was selected for the limit. Now I shift into lower gears in the rear and move the slider until I get rid of rubbing on each cog. Once that's done I try it out and shift through the cassette and it's rubbing on pretty much every cog. When I use trim it moves the fd for some of the cogs in the rear but does nothing for others so it just keeps rubbing. Also that trim position is for sure not what I selected when trying to "micro adjust"
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when I open front derailleur setup I have a "micro adjust" slider. what does it do? Is it supposed to set the derailleur position for each individual cog in the rear when I use trim? Because I don't think that is what's happening. When I navigate to limit setting and set the limit for the hardest gear and go back, the "micro adjust slider" is now set to whatever was selected for the limit. Now I shift into lower gears in the rear and move the slider until I get rid of rubbing on each cog. Once that's done I try it out and shift through the cassette and it's rubbing on pretty much every cog. When I use trim it moves the fd for some of the cogs in the rear but does nothing for others so it just keeps rubbing. Also that trim position is for sure not what I selected when trying to "micro adjust"
I always start with the high limit and low limit adjustments for the FD before adjusting individual cogs. Also make sure you're on the correct cassette speed (10/11/12) and make sure your RD hanger isn't bent. It's possible you have to physically adjust the FD hanger itself. It could be off a 1-2mm causing rubbing.
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My experience so far. I bought the eGR 1X12 in October 24 for a ICAN gravel frame. All was good till recently, when it the battery started getting drained, and on a longish ride I was stuck in 5th gear. I recharged it and did a measurement that showed it was losing about 1%/hr of charge just sitting. I have contacted the seller from AliExpress to see if there is a solution. I suspect a moisture leak and a short. Anyone have a solution?
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My experience so far. I bought the eGR 1X12 in October 24 for a ICAN gravel frame. All was good till recently, when it the battery started getting drained, and on a longish ride I was stuck in 5th gear. I recharged it and did a measurement that showed it was losing about 1%/hr of charge just sitting. I have contacted the seller from AliExpress to see if there is a solution. I suspect a moisture leak and a short. Anyone have a solution?
i had a phantom drain issue as well... 80 Designer Store and LTwoo warrantied my rear derailleur and sent me a new one.
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i had a phantom drain issue as well... 80 Designer Store and LTwoo warrantied my rear derailleur and sent me a new one.
I had exactly the same problem with my ERX. L-TWOO Official Store honored the warranty and sent a new RD with cables. It took 6 weeks (chinese new year and so on..) but now I am happy. The RD is the new model ("blue"), installing was easy and it works fine.
I love that groupset. When it works...
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The RD is the new model ("blue"), installing was easy and it works fine.
I love that groupset. When it works...
I love that groupset. When it works... +1 on that, couldn't agree more.
How does the blue differ from the old one? Could you please share a photo?
Is that store selling the ER9 / ERX both old and new versions on different listings? Are there listings for the ERX / ER9 with the new brakes? (the lighter ones with less bulk around adaptors).
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I love that groupset. When it works... +1 on that, couldn't agree more.
How does the blue differ from the old one? Could you please share a photo?
Is that store selling the ER9 / ERX both old and new versions on different listings? Are there listings for the ERX / ER9 with the new brakes? (the lighter ones with less bulk around adaptors).
i send message to 80 designer. and that is the ansewer. "Yes, dear Kostas, you can place the order by below link and leave a message on your order, we'll send the 2025 latest version to you directly, thank you".
link is from old erx but they send new one
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I had exactly the same problem with my ERX. L-TWOO Official Store honored the warranty and sent a new RD with cables. It took 6 weeks (chinese new year and so on..) but now I am happy. The RD is the new model ("blue"), installing was easy and it works fine.
I love that groupset. When it works...
so old shifters works with new rd?
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I had exactly the same problem with my ERX. L-TWOO Official Store honored the warranty and sent a new RD with cables. It took 6 weeks (chinese new year and so on..) but now I am happy. The RD is the new model ("blue"), installing was easy and it works fine.
I love that groupset. When it works...
You received a new RD derailleur (blue) and it does not have a charging port, so now how do you charge the derailleurs?
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You received a new RD derailleur (blue) and it does not have a charging port, so now how do you charge the derailleurs?
looks like there's a v2 and a v3 of the blue versions. Trace Velo just dropped a video of the v3 and the v2 has the same charging port as the v1
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looks like there's a v2 and a v3 of the blue versions. Trace Velo just dropped a video of the v3 and the v2 has the same charging port as the v1
Just watched the video - the first impressions of v3 seem very good. Hopefully ER9 isn't far behind - that's probably where the real value proposition is, since ERX is getting quite close to 105 in price.
Seems like look and operation is premium though - hopefully the reliability is closer to the mark than v1. Hopefully availability of spares is decent too.
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Has there been a mention of eR9 for this generation? I've only seen eR9 for the first release. Still can't justify eRX prices over discounted 105 di2, but with a 50ish discount on eR9 that's a different question
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Yeah, the new ER9 version exists. I just received mine, which I bought directly from the Ltwoo Taobao store for around $420.
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I love that groupset. When it works... +1 on that, couldn't agree more.
How does the blue differ from the old one? Could you please share a photo?
Is that store selling the ER9 / ERX both old and new versions on different listings? Are there listings for the ERX / ER9 with the new brakes? (the lighter ones with less bulk around adaptors).
There is a difference in appearance, the new version looks much better. As far as the interior is concerned: I have no idea if they removed the bugs or not. The charging port is where it was in the first version.
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Yeah, the new ER9 version exists. I just received mine, which I bought directly from the Ltwoo Taobao store for around $420.
80 Designer Store is also already selling the new eR9. Though it seems the shifter shape remains the same to V2 of eRX, based on the pictures they shared with me. Maybe this is how they are going to have some distinction between eRX and eR9. The new eR9 also comes with USB-C charging in the FD, by the way.
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80 Designer Store is also already selling the new eR9. Though it seems the shifter shape remains the same to V2 of eRX, based on the pictures they shared with me. Maybe this is how they are going to have some distinction between eRX and eR9. The new eR9 also comes with USB-C charging in the FD, by the way.
is it just the hoodcover or the complete shifter? I'd love to get a new eR9, but only with the bigger V3 eRX shifters because i find my eR9 V1 hoods simply too tiny and therefore uncomfortable.
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is it just the hoodcover or the complete shifter? I'd love to get a new eR9, but only with the bigger V3 eRX shifters because i find my eR9 V1 hoods simply too tiny and therefore uncomfortable.
The Trace Velo video didn’t look bigger to me just ever so slight differences in the shifters. They do seem nicer overall. Like the charge port in the FD.
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is it just the hoodcover or the complete shifter? I'd love to get a new eR9, but only with the bigger V3 eRX shifters because i find my eR9 V1 hoods simply too tiny and therefore uncomfortable.
Judging from Trace's video, both hood and the whole body of the V2 and V3 are different. I'd like to do the same to upgrade my other two eR9s. We'll see, maybe eventually eR9 will catch up the eRX. Ltwoo seems to like making changes often, which is both good and bad for us customers. Worst case scenario, I'll just pick new sets eRX shifters and pair them with the current eR9, if I end up liking the V3 shifter that I should be receiving in a few days.
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I don't see myself getting another LTwoo groupset until they've ironed out their finalized specs. Plus I might just go elsewhere especially as 105 Di2 drops in price or even consider going Wheeltop EDS TX.
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I like the "horn"(?) part of the v3 more. A little flatter and seems like it would be more comfortable when bracong against it with your palm. But I'm not likely to buy a set anytime soon either. Especially not with magene on the horizon
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I don't see myself getting another LTwoo groupset until they've ironed out their finalized specs. Plus I might just go elsewhere especially as 105 Di2 drops in price or even consider going Wheeltop EDS TX.
Question on this set. I am seeing talk of v1, v2 and now v3. That does blue and black have todo with and how can you tell when you are looking to possibly order? Any help is appreciated.
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Question on this set. I am seeing talk of v1, v2 and now v3. That does blue and black have todo with and how can you tell when you are looking to possibly order? Any help is appreciated.
V1 is the original ER9/X setup. I believe V2 has the updated FD, shifters, brake calipers and exterior, but the same style charging method. V3 has the ability to charge using a USB type-C plug through the FD and has slightly different hoods.
Worst case scenario, I'll just pick new sets eRX shifters and pair them with the current eR9, if I end up liking the V3 shifter that I should be receiving in a few days.
I was thinking of swapping over my eGR shifters to one of my eR9 bikes since they have better haptics and are slightly more comfortable especially with the longer levers. The eGR has left/right shift buttons, but the left shifter goes to waste since they don't have any functions.
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"Blue" is because that's what Joe from China Cycling/Panda Podium nicknamed one of the prototypes (V2ish) he got and it stuck. Don't worry about it.
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V1 is the original ER9/X setup. I believe V2 has the updated FD, shifters, brake calipers and exterior, but the same style charging method. V3 has the ability to charge using a USB type-C plug through the FD and has slightly different hoods.
I was thinking of swapping over my eGR shifters to one of my eR9 bikes since they have better haptics and are slightly more comfortable especially with the longer levers. The eGR has left/right shift buttons, but the left shifter goes to waste since they don't have any functions.
I am sorry I was not clear in my question. I watch the Trece velo vidio and understand v1, v2 and V3……what has me questioning thing is the Blue, black and gold when referring to the Ltwoo groupset. Thanks
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Has there been a mention of eR9 for this generation? I've only seen eR9 for the first release. Still can't justify eRX prices over discounted 105 di2, but with a 50ish discount on eR9 that's a different question
Where are the discounted 105 Di2's available? Anyone know if it's possible to get just the shifter+FD+RD+disc brake calipers+battery (minus crank, cassette, etc.)?
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Where are the discounted 105 Di2's available? Anyone know if it's possible to get just the shifter+FD+RD+disc brake calipers+battery (minus crank, cassette, etc.)?
I'm curious too... Would be cool if it came without calipers as well as there are many aftermarket options now
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Where are the discounted 105 Di2's available? Anyone know if it's possible to get just the shifter+FD+RD+disc brake calipers+battery (minus crank, cassette, etc.)?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mq5ZADl
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Funny, I just purchased that exact 105 groupset. With taxes and shipping it was 720.00. Shipped to my house via DHL in one week. Consider me impressed.
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Seems a lot of the sellers exclude the battery, only include the battery casing. Searched through LTWOO's site and manual but no mention of what battery types the battery case accepts. Anyone know?
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Seems a lot of the sellers exclude the battery, only include the battery casing. Searched through LTWOO's site and manual but no mention of what battery types the battery case accepts. Anyone know?
Any type 14500 batteries. 3,7v and 800mAh. Available anywhere at about 5 EUR a piece.
Make sure that the +pole is not flat, there are two options for that. The raised pole is what you want.
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Any type 14500 batteries. 3,7v and 800mAh. Available anywhere at about 5 EUR a piece.
Make sure that the +pole is not flat, there are two options for that. The raised pole is what you want.
Also make sure the battery is exactly 50mm. I've picked up 14500 3.7v 800mah batteries that were 51mm-53mm and they're too big. 51mm will barely fit, but I didn't feel comfortable because it put strain on the battery holder casing.
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Make sure that the +pole is not flat, there are two options for that. The raised pole is what you want.
This is often called "button top". You want button top 14500 cells. And, you also want to make sure to get some without extra fancy features. Some offer special USB ports for charging the cell via usb or other things like that. You don't want any of that, and it might interfere with how the Ltwoo charger is supposed to work.
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80 Design Store told me they're selling the new V3 ERX as a complete set for now (using the old link). Compared to Panda Podium pricing, it's still cheaper to buy from 80 Design Store and their warranty service has been excellent so far. Though above $500 USD there is also Wheeltop EDS TX and 105 Di2 to consider. Wheeltop and 105 Di2 also allow larger in-spec cassette range. It's nice to have more options! :)
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According to 80 designer store everything can be mixed and will work together. Good news for broken RD's! But they aren't selling them seperately.
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According to 80 designer store everything can be mixed and will work together. Good news for broken RD's! But they aren't selling them seperately.
I bought a ER9 RD at 80 designer store 4 weeks ago. 151 Euros.
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I bought a ER9 RD at 80 designer store 4 weeks ago. 151 Euros.
wait what? Was it on some crazy sale or something?
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https://a.aliexpress.com/_mq5ZADl
For reference, i could pull the trigger on this group (no cassette) for 630 eur, and i'd expect to pay customs fees (<100 eur?). With the new ERX costing 650$ on Panda podium, the price difference is arguably in favour of shimano, because if you buy ltwoo, you "have" to budget a spare RD. All the bikes i've installed ER9 on have had a RD die.
Note: i just bought another bike for a friend in parts. Aliexpress is becoming very confusing. Prices are much higher than over the summer (10-20% higher), and there's now a lot of volatility over time (if you buy stuff when there is no sales campaign, prices are often much higher, so you really need to time your purchases, even if you forget to use the coupons, and depending on where you ship in europe, prices are increasingly diverging. And there's quality fade i can point to specifically.
Also, as of 2 days ago, it was impossible for me to buy an er9 group on alix, they wouldnt ship it, claiming issue with the 150 eur EU rule. Problem being, you can buy wheels on alix and other stuff that's way above that 150 threshold, so, go figure the logic.
Everything ltwoo also has prices jacked the F up in the last weeks. I used to pay 150 eur for a spare RD, now if i find one that can be shipped, it's much more.
Very confusing stuff, and i'm the highest tier there is on aliexpress, so i know my way around the platform quite well.
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I bought a ER9 RD at 80 designer store 4 weeks ago. 151 Euros.
Did you buy an ER9 groupset from 80 Design Store? If you had issues with your RD, they will send you a warranty replacement (just pay shipping fee). ;)
wait what? Was it on some crazy sale or something?
He said RD only. 151 euros for the whole groupset would be a steal! ;D
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For reference, i could pull the trigger on this group (no cassette) for 630 eur, and i'd expect to pay customs fees (<100 eur?). With the new ERX costing 650$ on Panda podium, the price difference is arguably in favour of shimano, because if you buy ltwoo, you "have" to budget a spare RD. All the bikes i've installed ER9 on have had a RD die.
Note: i just bought another bike for a friend in parts. Aliexpress is becoming very confusing. Prices are much higher than over the summer (10-20% higher), and there's now a lot of volatility over time (if you buy stuff when there is no sales campaign, prices are often much higher, so you really need to time your purchases, even if you forget to use the coupons, and depending on where you ship in europe, prices are increasingly diverging. And there's quality fade i can point to specifically.
Also, as of 2 days ago, it was impossible for me to buy an er9 group on alix, they wouldnt ship it, claiming issue with the 150 eur EU rule. Problem being, you can buy wheels on alix and other stuff that's way above that 150 threshold, so, go figure the logic.
Everything ltwoo also has prices jacked the F up in the last weeks. I used to pay 150 eur for a spare RD, now if i find one that can be shipped, it's much more.
Very confusing stuff, and i'm the highest tier there is on aliexpress, so i know my way around the platform quite well.
I didn't think it was just my imagination that the Chinese electronic group sets had jumped on price the last week or so, damn.
What is the best value set right now for just the levers, disc brake calipers and cables plus derailleurs?
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80 Design Store got back to me. They are officially selling both the new V3 ERX and ER9 groupsets. They haven't updated their profile description though. I did ask if the V3 ER9 has the new FD charging port. There doesn't seem to be much info about it, since all the influencers are pushing the ERX as the only option. From my experience with the eGR, I really do like the newer tactile shift buttons and the mono block alloy calipers have more bite than the older calipers. Though I would ask beforehand before ordering to specifically received the 2025 V3 groupset.
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I didn't think it was just my imagination that the Chinese electronic group sets had jumped on price the last week or so, damn.
What is the best value set right now for just the levers, disc brake calipers and cables plus derailleurs?
The cheapest spot to buy LTwoo groupsets is from the LTwoo official choice store. Just make note, The LTwoo official store won't warranty coverage the items. I did risk buying my Ltwoo eGR groupset from that choice store since it was under $300 USD, but I knew what I was getting into and the savings was worth it to me.
AliEx always have these price fluctuations. Best bet is to add an item on your wish list and monitor pricing. Also I always double check Super Deals on AliEx, because sometimes the same item from the same vendor will be cheaper if buying it as a Super Deal item.
I wouldn't be surprised if there were some prices drops between the spring and summer sales.
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Feels to me like everything jumped in price tbh. Even shimano groups on ali jumped like 10%
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Two er9 sets here without issues, not the early models. Paid 344 dollar with coupons for the last one. Declared lower value and 36 euro import costs.
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The cheapest spot to buy LTwoo groupsets is from the LTwoo official choice store.
AliEx always have these price fluctuations.
You're in the US, i'm in the EU. There are listings made for the US, others made for the EU (Airwolf cockpit is one very specific example i can point to). More generally, given that AliX prices are often 1/3 shipping costs, taxes & fees, what you see as best value is often going to be different for me, before AliX even starts playing price optimization shenanigans. As a rule of thumb, as i understand it, you pay less for stuff than we do on AliX.
Feels to me like everything jumped in price tbh. Even shimano groups on ali jumped like 10%
+1 on that. Given that last time I checked, China was in a deflationary environment, idk if it's 1. international shipping rates; 2. EU shipping rates; 3. the EU asking for more money / being more strict with customs / imports in general 4. algorithmic "optimisation" of Aliexpress, ie them pushing prices up like Amazon has been doing for years to see how much more people are willing to pay (and develop profound hatred for the platform in the process) until they throw in the towel and go live in the woods instead.
But generally, Alix feels more and more like a mine field. The exact same product can be had, without coupons, at such different prices over time, geographies & listings, it's really both frustrating and confusing.
Did you buy an ER9 groupset from 80 Design Store? If you had issues with your RD, they will send you a warranty replacement (just pay shipping fee). ;)
Unfortunately, the RDs that died are from the batch i got OEM when i built the bikes in the summer of 2023.
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As for the price increases, we might want to wait a bit, I expect it is because the anniversary sales is coming and store are jacking up the prices so that the discount seems bigger.
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For the 14500 batteries, must they be the 800mAh type, or can larger capacities (like 2500 mAh) be used? Anyone happen to know? As long as they're the same dimensions of course.
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For the 14500 batteries, must they be the 800mAh type, or can larger capacities (like 2500 mAh) be used? Anyone happen to know? As long as they're the same dimensions of course.
I would stick to something closer to the 800mAh. Not because the system can't handle different capacities (it can, as far as I know), but only because a correctly spec'd cell of that size can't differ in capacity THAT much. Something about the cell must be different, or they're wildly overstating the capacity. Neither bodes well for an indication of quality or compatibility. For reference, I have some good quality XTAR cells that are stated to be 800mAh and my eGR can go many hundreds of miles and thousands of shifts on a full charge. You don't need such wildly over-stated capacity for it to function well.
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I would stick to something closer to the 800mAh. Not because the system can't handle different capacities (it can, as far as I know), but only because a correctly spec'd cell of that size can't differ in capacity THAT much. Something about the cell must be different, or they're wildly overstating the capacity. Neither bodes well for an indication of quality or compatibility. For reference, I have some good quality XTAR cells that are stated to be 800mAh and my eGR can go many hundreds of miles and thousands of shifts on a full charge. You don't need such wildly over-stated capacity for it to function well.
i use xtar too. no drain and i go many miles
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Hi, I have been an owner of ER9 for more than a year now, but as the days are getting warmer this time of the year (for anyone living in the northern hemisphere, at least), I noticed that the brake lever action is changing very noticeably depending on the temperature. For example, I recently adjusted them to be responsive at around 5 ºC, but now that the temperatures are at ~15 ºC, the rear brake sticks significantly. I suppose this is not normal, and I am wondering whether anyone else has experienced something similar and if anyone has any ideas what the problem might be.
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Hi, I have been an owner of ER9 for more than a year now, but as the days are getting warmer this time of the year (for anyone living in the northern hemisphere, at least), I noticed that the brake lever action is changing very noticeably depending on the temperature. For example, I recently adjusted them to be responsive at around 5 ºC, but now that the temperatures are at ~15 ºC, the rear brake sticks significantly. I suppose this is not normal, and I am wondering whether anyone else has experienced something similar and if anyone has any ideas what the problem might be.
yea i've got the same thing too and don't know why but doesn't bother me much... I just adjust the lever reach adjuster to compensate
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I have seen a difference in the travel of the lever due to heat. Indeed, in Greece we reach 45 degrees. If there are any sticking, it is better to lubricate the pistons and if necessary, change the cables and the oil.
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Ok, thanks for quick replies. I have never heard of piston lubrication, but I will check it out!
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Hi, I have been an owner of ER9 for more than a year now, but as the days are getting warmer this time of the year (for anyone living in the northern hemisphere, at least), I noticed that the brake lever action is changing very noticeably depending on the temperature. For example, I recently adjusted them to be responsive at around 5 ºC, but now that the temperatures are at ~15 ºC, the rear brake sticks significantly. I suppose this is not normal, and I am wondering whether anyone else has experienced something similar and if anyone has any ideas what the problem might be.
This started happening on my GR9 brakes to the point that I had to DNF an event as the rear wheel could not fully turn without dragging on the brakes. Switched them out for GRX calipers.
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Ok, thanks for quick replies. I have never heard of piston lubrication, but I will check it out!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2owZkVdbaZc
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Does the LTWOO er9 setup ship with brake pads?
Can someone recommend their favorite replacement pads?
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Does the LTWOO er9 setup ship with brake pads?
Can someone recommend their favorite replacement pads?
yes with brake pads. i replace them with shimano L05A-RF. just be careful all shimano pads for alli aren't original
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The cheapest spot to buy LTwoo groupsets is from the LTwoo official choice store. Just make note, The LTwoo official store won't warranty coverage the items. I did risk buying my Ltwoo eGR groupset from that choice store since it was under $300 USD, but I knew what I was getting into and the savings was worth it to me.
there may be some shops with near-identical names , but I had bougt from this Ltwoo official store
https://ltwoo.aliexpress.com/store/910450018?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.8.1d8c5c5fe69jIu
And they did send me a new RD for my ERX on warranty!
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I just confirmed with the 80 Design store that the Ltwoo eR9 also has the new USB-C FD charging. So it looks like the only difference is in appearance between the two. That makes the eR9 the value deal if buying right now. :)
I added a screenshot with their chat reply! ;)
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I have a Ltwoo 1x11 hydraulic group, excellent group and powerful braking, but after a while the rear brake loses its bite, I open the screw, let a little oil pass and it works again. Why does this problem occur and how can it be solved? Original Ltwoo calipers.
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Received these two pictures from the new ER9 groupset from 80 designer store. Not the best quality and not very visual but clearly shows the new charging design here
With the service 80 designer store is giving it's a no brainer with coupons. Atleast in my opinion, enjoying my two er9 setups more than my di2 setup.
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With the service 80 designer store is giving it's a no brainer with coupons.
If you don't mind me asking, what was your final price with all discounts and savings and shipping applied?
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Received these two pictures from the new ER9 groupset from 80 designer store. Not the best quality and not very visual but clearly shows the new charging design here
With the service 80 designer store is giving it's a no brainer with coupons. Atleast in my opinion, enjoying my two er9 setups more than my di2 setup.
You're in the US, right? currently, can't get er9 / erx groups shipped to europe because of shipping / EU regulations (EU Customs Duty Exemption at 150 eur) shenanigans.
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Hi guys, I got the new eRX gen 3 (type c charging)
I've used XTAR 1200mah batteries for it. My first shakedown ride was a 4 hour 130km cycle and about 3.5h into the ride it went flat/stopped working. When I left for the ride it said it had 90% battery.
When I plugged back in after the ride the groupset came back to life it said it had like 80% left.
Any ideas what might of happened here? Does the battery level thing need time to calibrate?
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You're in the US, right? currently, can't get er9 / erx groups shipped to europe because of shipping / EU regulations (EU Customs Duty Exemption at 150 eur) shenanigans.
I'm from Belgium. Didn't order at this time but ordered a set two months ago came in fine. Just had to pay import taxes at border.
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I'm from Belgium. Didn't order at this time but ordered a set two months ago came in fine. Just had to pay import taxes at border.
Would you mind checking if you can order now? go all the way to "pay" page, then ofc dont press pay. what happens is that at the last page, i get a >150 eur error related message. afaik, the issue wasnt there a few weeks ago.
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Would you mind checking if you can order now? go all the way to "pay" page, then ofc dont press pay. what happens is that at the last page, i get a >150 eur error related message. afaik, the issue wasnt there a few weeks ago.
I ordered er9 groupset from 80 desinger store about 20 minutes ago.
At least when shipped in Finland there’s no issues with ordering.
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Would you mind checking if you can order now? go all the way to "pay" page, then ofc dont press pay. what happens is that at the last page, i get a >150 eur error related message. afaik, the issue wasnt there a few weeks ago.
just checked it. 523$ in the basket and 439$ after price adjustment and shipping to Germany. No warning what so ever.
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Interesting, thanks guys! indeed, to germany using 80 store, you get a price adjustment and the price makes sense. switch to france, and they charge an extra 150+ eur for shipping: doesnt make sense. Using a different store that advertises free shipping to european countries, the same problem with the 150 threshold still shows up at the last minute.
Didnt try a finland address.
Endlessly confusing - i'm building bikes in 3 different countries atm.
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Received these two pictures from the new ER9 groupset from 80 designer store. Not the best quality and not very visual but clearly shows the new charging design here
With the service 80 designer store is giving it's a no brainer with coupons. Atleast in my opinion, enjoying my two er9 setups more than my di2 setup.
Did you order the V3 ER9? I'm thinking of pulling the trigger as well. Not that I need it right now, but there's a good chance I won't have access to the groupset in the next few months.
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Ordered an ER9 groupset from here in the US a few days ago, from the LTWOO factory store on AliE. Price hasn't changed since I ordered, supposed to be version 3 according to support agent, $459.
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Interesting, thanks guys! indeed, to germany using 80 store, you get a price adjustment and the price makes sense. switch to france, and they charge an extra 150+ eur for shipping: doesnt make sense. Using a different store that advertises free shipping to european countries, the same problem with the 150 threshold still shows up at the last minute.
Didnt try a finland address.
Endlessly confusing - i'm building bikes in 3 different countries atm.
VAT can't be excluded on Aliexpress for France. So lame.
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Hi guys, I got the new eRX gen 3 (type c charging)
I've used XTAR 1200mah batteries for it. My first shakedown ride was a 4 hour 130km cycle and about 3.5h into the ride it went flat/stopped working. When I left for the ride it said it had 90% battery.
When I plugged back in after the ride the groupset came back to life it said it had like 80% left.
Any ideas what might of happened here? Does the battery level thing need time to calibrate?
anyone?
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anyone?
I notice those batteries that get marked with higher capacity discharge prematurely. I've since switched to 800mah 3.7v 50mm height batteries with tab. Since then, no issues with battery drain. It's also a good idea not to trust the battery gauge and charge it overnight just to be safe. A sure method is to use an external charger to charge fully and then install the batteries. That way you know the batteries are good to go and every other charge after will just top off the power.
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I notice those batteries that get marked with higher capacity discharge prematurely. I've since switched to 800mah 3.7v 50mm height batteries with tab. Since then, no issues with battery drain. It's also a good idea not to trust the battery gauge and charge it overnight just to be safe. A sure method is to use an external charger to charge fully and then install the batteries. That way you know the batteries are good to go and every other charge after will just top off the power.
Hmm interesting thanks. I thought the XTAR 1200s would be good quality since I'd seen people had good performance out of the XTAR 800s.
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Hmm interesting thanks. I thought the XTAR 1200s would be good quality since I'd seen people had good performance out of the XTAR 800s.
With LTwoo electronic, it's best just to stick with the recommended 800mah batteries. I'd also clean both charging port and battery cable with a cotton swab if you notice dirt.
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I just received my new eRX from 80 Designer Store. The new shifter ergonomic is such an improvement, in my opinion. It's actually heavier than the old eR9 by almost 15gr for each shifter. I'll take the 15gr penalty for improved comfort. Kind of curious how the new eR9 would weigh compared to the new eRX. It seems like an odd choice if eR9 ends up being lighter than the eRX.
I can confirm that the new shifter can be paired with my other eR9 RD and FD. It's funny I can pair two different sets of shifter for one RD and FD, at the same time.
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Do you think that the new version can compete with a Shimano 105 or Ultegra Di2 groupset ?
Which crankset / cassette do you use ?
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Do you think that the new version can compete with a Shimano 105 or Ultegra Di2 groupset ?
Which crankset / cassette do you use ?
Given that you can get the set for reasonable price, I think this can easily compete with 105. I got the eRX for ~$500 after tax, which is still less than what you would pay for 105. Ltwoo needs to drop a bit of weight and add more features like extra button to compete with Ultegra. In terms of functionality, I'd argue the new eRX is already much better than 105 with variable speed, per cog micro adjust, USB-C charging, user replaceable batteries, over the air firmware upgrade (I believe 105 still does not support this either).
The new eRX will be paired with Elilee x310 crankset and ZTTO ultralight cassette. Previously, I was running Racework crankset and Dura-Ace cassette which worked flawlessly. I would expect nothing less from the new combination.
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VAT can't be excluded on Aliexpress for France. So lame.
Well... Death and taxes... Fairness / level playing field... It's not lame. I can't say I like it, but it's something you can order from the toilet to your door in one click. It's competing against bike shops and legit online retailers, subject to VAT, taxes, customer friendly return terms, warranty and so on. I'm all in favour of cutting out middlemen that add little to no value. However, if you start cheating taxes, it's not fair anymore.
The concept of tariffs isn't crazy either. Unfortunately we know that public money is mostly spent poorly, but in spirit, i support the idea of being taxed a little bit on such purchases so that the money goes towards something useful. Idk if it's creating a bit of industry, bike paths, bike events, bike handling / maintenance classes, but in the spirit of fairness, we shouldn't be able to buy shit abroad and pay no VAT / taxes when businesses around us are subject to both taxes and VAT.
Now obviously if there was the option not to pay VAT, i'd pick it, but the idea remains :)
Do you think that the new version can compete with a Shimano 105 or Ultegra Di2 groupset ?
Which crankset / cassette do you use ?
We've broken 4 or 5 ER9 RDs, i stopped counting honestly. But we got early versions. I think the consensus is that when it's working (ie not broken) and well calibrated, it's great.
Caveats: price and relative value. The new ERX on panda podium is 650$, for eg. At this price point, compared to 105 di2, for eg, well... The idea is that i recommend ltwoo if and only if the relative value is a no brainer. And that's a function of jurisdiction, time and so on.
Racing performance: i don't race, and i avoid shifting in shitty situations. So I'm not changing 3 cogs, switching to the big ring, out of the saddle, uphill, suddenly, and panicked. aka, the sort of thing that you do when you race. It's important to flag, because i heard very recent horror stories of pros racing ltwoo er9/erx groups and getting dropped chains, mechanical failures and the likes. I am not saying that ltwoo can't be used for racing, but dropping chains under peak torque is scary and dangerous, and it's not like my previous bikes (shimano 105 mech & sram red mech) would necessarily perform flawlessly under such conditions either (in fact my sram red FD was always a POS). So, i'm not testing that, and the reality is very few people will really have good intel on that.
Bottom line: if there's a signficant price gap vs shimano / sram, and if you're going to be kind to the kit (it's absolutely a SKILL to know how to shift for best shifting performance, whether you're on LTWOO or shimano/sram), ltwoo probably makes sense.
If not, then you have to think a bit harder as the answer becomes less clear.
And i guess, let's mention weather proofing and niche uses like ultra distance racing, bike packing, and that sort of things. If you're going to do exotic stuff like commute in the rain every day or spend 3 weeks in the Atlas mountains with a sleeping bag, then you're probably risk adverse enough to consider bomb proof setups, and not this.
cassette / chainring: you can use anything. from experience, 11s seems to shift better than 12s, which makes sense: same width, narrower cogs, more accuracy needed on 12 than 11 to shift well. I recommend 11s on these groups. If you're on 2x, 12s is a bit of a gimmick to sell new bikes. 11s has cheaper parts and is more dependable, easier to calibrate.
Do expect to spend a significant amount of time over several rides to really dial in the shifting. And if you knock the derailleurs, or drop a chain or something like that, expect to re-calibrate stuff. It's not plug and play.
To be fair, a friend bought an sworks SL7 with ultegra di2 (might be DA, even), i think he fixed a puncture, knocked the derailleur, and hasn't re-calibrated his gears properly either, so his bike makes clicking noises. So his experience is that di2 is not plug and play either.
Last piece of rant: in europe, the battery for di2, which is a plastic sleeve with 2 batteries in it, just that, on sale, is over 150 eur. Shimano, from the bottom of my heart, go fuck yourself.
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Well... Death and taxes... Fairness / level playing field... It's not lame. I can't say I like it, but it's something you can order from the toilet to your door in one click. It's competing against bike shops and legit online retailers, subject to VAT, taxes, customer friendly return terms, warranty and so on. I'm all in favour of cutting out middlemen that add little to no value. However, if you start cheating taxes, it's not fair anymore.
The concept of tariffs isn't crazy either. Unfortunately we know that public money is mostly spent poorly, but in spirit, i support the idea of being taxed a little bit on such purchases so that the money goes towards something useful. Idk if it's creating a bit of industry, bike paths, bike events, bike handling / maintenance classes, but in the spirit of fairness, we shouldn't be able to buy shit abroad and pay no VAT / taxes when businesses around us are subject to both taxes and VAT.
Now obviously if there was the option not to pay VAT, i'd pick it, but the idea remains :)
We've broken 4 or 5 ER9 RDs, i stopped counting honestly. But we got early versions. I think the consensus is that when it's working (ie not broken) and well calibrated, it's great.
Caveats: price and relative value. The new ERX on panda podium is 650$, for eg. At this price point, compared to 105 di2, for eg, well... The idea is that i recommend ltwoo if and only if the relative value is a no brainer. And that's a function of jurisdiction, time and so on.
Racing performance: i don't race, and i avoid shifting in shitty situations. So I'm not changing 3 cogs, switching to the big ring, out of the saddle, uphill, suddenly, and panicked. aka, the sort of thing that you do when you race. It's important to flag, because i heard very recent horror stories of pros racing ltwoo er9/erx groups and getting dropped chains, mechanical failures and the likes. I am not saying that ltwoo can't be used for racing, but dropping chains under peak torque is scary and dangerous, and it's not like my previous bikes (shimano 105 mech & sram red mech) would necessarily perform flawlessly under such conditions either (in fact my sram red FD was always a POS). So, i'm not testing that, and the reality is very few people will really have good intel on that.
Bottom line: if there's a signficant price gap vs shimano / sram, and if you're going to be kind to the kit (it's absolutely a SKILL to know how to shift for best shifting performance, whether you're on LTWOO or shimano/sram), ltwoo probably makes sense.
If not, then you have to think a bit harder as the answer becomes less clear.
And i guess, let's mention weather proofing and niche uses like ultra distance racing, bike packing, and that sort of things. If you're going to do exotic stuff like commute in the rain every day or spend 3 weeks in the Atlas mountains with a sleeping bag, then you're probably risk adverse enough to consider bomb proof setups, and not this.
cassette / chainring: you can use anything. from experience, 11s seems to shift better than 12s, which makes sense: same width, narrower cogs, more accuracy needed on 12 than 11 to shift well. I recommend 11s on these groups. If you're on 2x, 12s is a bit of a gimmick to sell new bikes. 11s has cheaper parts and is more dependable, easier to calibrate.
Do expect to spend a significant amount of time over several rides to really dial in the shifting. And if you knock the derailleurs, or drop a chain or something like that, expect to re-calibrate stuff. It's not plug and play.
To be fair, a friend bought an sworks SL7 with ultegra di2 (might be DA, even), i think he fixed a puncture, knocked the derailleur, and hasn't re-calibrated his gears properly either, so his bike makes clicking noises. So his experience is that di2 is not plug and play either.
Last piece of rant: in europe, the battery for di2, which is a plastic sleeve with 2 batteries in it, just that, on sale, is over 150 eur. Shimano, from the bottom of my heart, go fuck yourself.
Indeed, what is lame is not the VAT but the fact that the amount of VAT changes a lot in the european countries. More than 100 euros between France and Belgium for example on a 900 € item.
Thanks for the explanation about the groupset.
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Would you mind checking if you can order now? go all the way to "pay" page, then ofc dont press pay. what happens is that at the last page, i get a >150 eur error related message. afaik, the issue wasnt there a few weeks ago.
Checked, can order from 80 designer store. Ltwoo official never worked here.
Belgium also adjusts price and than it's import duties.
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Well I've now put about 7 hours on my gen 3 eRX on its current charge with the XTAR 1200 batteries. So far the app still reports 90% capacity after those 7 hours and I have had no mid-ride shutdowns so far.
I think my charger wasn't up to the task. They only gave me a cable in the box so I ended up using an old cellphone charger. After closer inspection said charger was only rated at 5v 2A.
So I went and bought a charger that could do 10v since both those cells in series charged is around 8.4v. And so far I think everything is good?
enjoying my eRX gen 3 tremendously. But as a recent convert over from the mechanical side of things I wonder if alot of ex mechanical users feel the way I do. I miss the clicks and clunks of mechanical shifting. I would describe it to a car enthusiast / petrol head as the same sort of feeling of going from a fully manual transmission to a semi-automatic paddle shift. Yes TECHNICALLY you are still driving it in a manual capacity but it's not the same. I feel electric shifting removes some of the character and some of the soul of the bike.
But I had no choice really since my bike is designed specifically for electric. I managed to make mechanical cables fit into the frame but it was a nightmare. And after 10K kms it was time to replace cables, the thought terrifies me so I chickened and got eRX.
It shifts amazingly quick compared to mechanical. I don't know how it compares to other electric options. But for a mechanical guy this is fast. And once you've fine tuned in the app it's perfect everytime. No missed shifts because you didn't throw the lever far enough to catch the next tooth in the shifter or anything like that just perfect. Sometimes I have to look to confirmed I have actually shifted because it's so smooth and precise I haven't felt the actual shift occur.
In other words. I love it. It's great. I do miss the character of a mechanical drive. But other than that this is awesome!
Brakes are good too.
End of my little review
Now on the gen 3 shifters. Anyone notice they get quite rattley? I get a lot of rattle from the buttons I think. Any one got any home hacks or remedy for that?
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I do miss the character of a mechanical drive. But other than that this is awesome!
Cassette tapes had "character" too, that little warble-y sound they would do with high frequencies and other such artifacts. Though it was funny to listen to my old Journey mix tape while Steve Perry belted over some high pitched synth, I absolutely don't "miss" that being the only way to listen to music in my car. And, though my mechanical Ultegra is very good, electric shifting is just better 99 times out of 100. And, probably better that last time, too, but occasionally a big mechanical "clunk" followed by a perfect shift is fun, so 1/100 ain't bad!
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I was just riding my eGR gravel bike yesterday thinking how much better the shift buttons are versus the ver 1 eR9 shifters and how much more responsive the newer brake calipers are! I can just imagine the new ver 3 eR9/X is that much better in overall performance! Though is enough to justify a new purchase? ::) ;D
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Here's a hi res photo of the new V3 eR9 for those interested. Courtesy of 80 Design Store! ;D
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Just need one of these guys to include some satellite shifter compatibility and I'll jump on.
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Just need one of these guys to include some satellite shifter compatibility and I'll jump on.
That would be a game changer if someone would develop universal satellite shift buttons that would work across all the Chinese electronic groupsets. They could literally "Deepseek" the whole electronic groupset market.
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It shifts amazingly quick compared to mechanical.
I appreciate electronic groupsets. But they still feel kind of gimmicky to me.
I like the ease of building with wireless groupsets. The tunability is cool, too. But quick I’ve actually found none of them. Di2 is the quickest. I’ve only ridden 11sp Di2 though. Er9 is slower. And Sam Rival is sloooow.
I often wonder how many people riding electronic these days have actually had the chance to compare this stuff to a perfectly tuned top tier mechanical system. Compared to my Record 12sp mechanical, every electronic group I’ve ridden is slower. Particularly in the upshifts. Electronic has less chance for misshifts and is easier to build. True. But quicker it is not.
But the way that frames go, it’s a moot point anyway. Not long and only custom frames will still accept derailleur cables, I guess.
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I appreciate electronic groupsets. But they still feel kind of gimmicky to me.
I like the ease of building with wireless groupsets. The tunability is cool, too. But quick I’ve actually found none of them. Di2 is the quickest. I’ve only ridden 11sp Di2 though. Er9 is slower. And Sam Rival is sloooow.
I often wonder how many people riding electronic these days have actually had the chance to compare this stuff to a perfectly tuned top tier mechanical system. Compared to my Record 12sp mechanical, every electronic group I’ve ridden is slower. Particularly in the upshifts. Electronic has less chance for misshifts and is easier to build. True. But quicker it is not.
But the way that frames go, it’s a moot point anyway. Not long and only custom frames will still accept derailleur cables, I guess.
Just a little click with the finger.
But the most thing I like is the semi-syncronisation shifting.
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That would be a game changer if someone would develop universal satellite shift buttons that would work across all the Chinese electronic groupsets. They could literally "Deepseek" the whole electronic groupset market.
It doesn't even have to be anything special. Shimano wired buttons are literally just the simplest binary buttons possible. Press button = complete circuit. You can literally make them at home.
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Cassette tapes had "character" too, that little warble-y sound they would do with high frequencies and other such artifacts. Though it was funny to listen to my old Journey mix tape while Steve Perry belted over some high pitched synth, I absolutely don't "miss" that being the only way to listen to music in my car. And, though my mechanical Ultegra is very good, electric shifting is just better 99 times out of 100. And, probably better that last time, too, but occasionally a big mechanical "clunk" followed by a perfect shift is fun, so 1/100 ain't bad!
I think comparing a bike groupset to a audio standard is a little disingenuous don't you? Like audio cassette tapes looking back were proper trash. I don't see how anyone could look back at those with fond memories. Same with VHS and other standards that converted over to digital. I think a manual transmission on a car compared to a semi-auto paddle shift is definitely more accurate? Both are great, but one is definitely better with shift speed etc. But one definitely has more soul. And that's probably why the manual tranny soldiers on in the hearts of car enthusiasts. (I won't ditch me manual even if you held a gun to my head)
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I think being able to tune a mechanical groupset should be a requisite before going electronic! ;D
I still prefer my Shimano mechanical front derailleur though. I feel like it's the biggest weakness of the LTwoo system. Maybe the newer V3 eR9/X is better, but my Shimano FD was always spot on. No need for a chain catcher. A pefectly tuned Shimano FD, just works!
I forgot to add, I have no clue why Ltwoo uses a narrow wide jockey wheel on the lower cage. Using a regular jockey wheel on the upper cage causes the chain to jump off the wheel if dumping gears. After swapping to Ultegra jockey wheels in the proper orientation, I was able to get better shifting and I was also able to get the cage closer to the cassette allowing for smoother shifting with my 11-34t cassette.
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Maybe the secret sauce is in the Shimano chainrings. Because I am still using my R8000 crank after my conversion to eRX (v3) from R8000 mechanical and I find the front shifting to be at least as good or better. That being said I'm VERY particular about tuning my front mech and my R8000 was tuned very well.
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I still prefer my Shimano mechanical front derailleur though. I feel like it's the biggest weakness of the LTwoo system. Maybe the newer V3 eR9/X is better, but my Shimano FD was always spot on. No need for a chain catcher. A pefectly tuned Shimano FD, just works!
I too found the Ltwoo front shifting pretty agricultural. I made it work but it was nowhere near my Record front mech. That is a full group though so the front mech is paired with the crankset and chainrings from the same groupset. I ran the Ltwoo with a Sram crank with Zrace chainrings. Wasn’t impressed. I switched to Shimano chainrings which actually made things worse because the chainline sits even further outboard with those. Now with Sram Rival AXS it’s better but not by much. I wouldn’t trust this setup to shift well under load in a race situation. If you back off slightly and go easy on it, it’s kind of reliable. But I’ve had much better.
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I think being able to tune a mechanical groupset should be a requisite before going electronic! ;D
I still prefer my Shimano mechanical front derailleur though. I feel like it's the biggest weakness of the LTwoo system. Maybe the newer V3 eR9/X is better, but my Shimano FD was always spot on. No need for a chain catcher. A pefectly tuned Shimano FD, just works!
I forgot to add, I have no clue why Ltwoo uses a narrow wide jockey wheel on the lower cage. Using a regular jockey wheel on the upper cage causes the chain to jump off the wheel if dumping gears. After swapping to Ultegra jockey wheels in the proper orientation, I was able to get better shifting and I was also able to get the cage closer to the cassette allowing for smoother shifting with my 11-34t cassette.
Can you explain what you with the jockey wheels? If previously did I must have missed it. Looking for best operations.
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I too found the Ltwoo front shifting pretty agricultural. I made it work but it was nowhere near my Record front mech. That is a full group though so the front mech is paired with the crankset and chainrings from the same groupset. I ran the Ltwoo with a Sram crank with Zrace chainrings. Wasn’t impressed. I switched to Shimano chainrings which actually made things worse because the chainline sits even further outboard with those. Now with Sram Rival AXS it’s better but not by much. I wouldn’t trust this setup to shift well under load in a race situation. If you back off slightly and go easy on it, it’s kind of reliable. But I’ve had much better.
I use your Ltwoo groupset with a Sram gxp crank and 52-34 chainring combination and a dura ace 11-30 cassette . Pretty good ! The front is as good as di2 11 speed but less Than 12 speed. The trim adjust is a bad point tho, but I'm happy with it ! Thanks again
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Can you explain what you with the jockey wheels? If previously did I must have missed it. Looking for best operations.
LTwoo in-spec has a 32t max cassette size. Running an 11-34t cassette on bumpy terrain while in the smallest cog would result in occasional chain drops. Sometimes when trying to build up speed on the downhill, I find myself in the highest gear setting (small cog). Ltwoo provides an 11t upper and 12t narrow/wide lower jockey wheel. I swapped out the Ltwoo stock wheels for Ultegra 11t upper and 11t lower jockey wheels. By doing so I was able to slightly move the upper jockey wheel closer to the small cog, which gave more stability on bumpy roads. Also the Ultegra upper jockey wheel has taller teeth. I noticed it keeps the chain aligned better when doing multiple shifts at once. On the stock Ltwoo upper wheel there's a chance the chain can jump off the upper jockey wheel if doing multiple shifts at once. I don't really see a point using a lower narrow/wide 12t jockey wheel.
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Maybe the secret sauce is in the Shimano chainrings. Because I am still using my R8000 crank after my conversion to eRX (v3) from R8000 mechanical and I find the front shifting to be at least as good or better. That being said I'm VERY particular about tuning my front mech and my R8000 was tuned very well.
I was initially using Senicx 3 bolt 2x chainrings, which require no adjustment compared to a Shimano chainring/crankset. When I installed my Magene PM, I had to get 4 bolt asymmetric chainrings. I tried aftermarket chainrings and they sucked. I swapped to Shimano chainrings and shifting is much better with LTwoo.
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LTwoo in-spec has a 32t max cassette size. Running an 11-34t cassette on bumpy terrain while in the smallest cog would result in occasional chain drops. Sometimes when trying to build up speed on the downhill, I find myself in the highest gear setting (small cog). Ltwoo provides an 11t upper and 12t narrow/wide lower jockey wheel. I swapped out the Ltwoo stock wheels for Ultegra 11t upper and 11t lower jockey wheels. By doing so I was able to slightly move the upper jockey wheel closer to the small cog, which gave more stability on bumpy roads. Also the Ultegra upper jockey wheel has taller teeth. I noticed it keeps the chain aligned better when doing multiple shifts at once. On the stock Ltwoo upper wheel there's a chance the chain can jump off the upper jockey wheel if doing multiple shifts at once. I don't really see a point using a lower narrow/wide 12t jockey wheel.
Thanks for the explanation!!