Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: jakonodi on August 24, 2023, 09:06:13 AM
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Hello, I am going for the new 505 SL. I ordered the non-integrated version which would take a little bit longer to deliver. So I decided to swap to the integrated version. Has anyone experience which integrated stem would fit? I prefer to have handlebar and stem separat for easier maintenance. Thank you for suggestions.
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I would check the headset spec to make sure that it is 1.5 to 1.5, but my guess would be that they are using the ACR spec. In which case any semi-integrated stem should work. There are a few from name brands as well as Chinese manufacturers.
Can you share any details you have about the 505 SL? Any images? Information is sparse and when I asked about it Adam basically said "yes, its a thing" without much else.
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Katie sent this photo and wrote: "The headset size is 1-1/2"* 1-1/2”ACR". As soon as the frame arrives I can provide photos. Should be in Germany in 10-20 days.The one attached also came from Katie@Carbonda. Right now I prefer the Specialized SL7 stem, not sure if it fits and if I need something more like another headset. I am not building up myself, a friend does the job. But I want to have everything ready. Right now I have a Carbonda 696. Very good gravel bike, just made the mistake to buy a size too big. Like many others... So now I'll try the 505SL.
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Yes it is 1.5"/1.5"
T47 BB is the first available
UDH hanger
They provide CGB02 an integrated handlebar, flared by 6cm on the 40cm wide.
I'm looking forward to get and see the two I ordered.
One will be a mullet Force/XX and maybe the second too :D
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Hi Carbonazza, do you think the Specialized SL7 stem would fit? Do I need anything else? Headset?
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Hi Carbonazza, do you think the Specialized SL7 stem would fit? Do I need anything else? Headset?
You'll need a 1.5" dust cover
Ritchey is doing one :
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/ritchey-comp-logic-e-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-headset-upper
This one looks promising, but I never tried :
https://acros-components.com/en/headsets/is52-headset-cover---integrated-cable-routing?number=24.52.113-OD56-AM
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Hello Carbonazza, the photo shows the included headset and what seems to be a dust cover. On top of that I need the Ritchey cover? Sorry for asking again will be my first integrated stem...
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Hello Carbonazza, the photo shows the included headset and what seems to be a dust cover. On top of that I need the Ritchey cover? Sorry for asking again will be my first integrated stem...
Ask them, but this is probably the dust cover that is just designed for their handlebar, not the SL7 stem.
In your case you need a more generic part, such the Ritchey one.
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Where do you find info on this frame? I can't find it on the Carbonda website.
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Seems to be their new frame. Just write to carbonda and ask for it. Geo almost similar to the classic 505 (not on their hp either but can be googled) https://www.carbonda.com/road/gravel/cfr505.html Small changes were made and it is 200 g lighter. Mine is in custom for almost 3 weeks now....
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I received my CFR505-SL this week, building up with Shimano GRX810 2x11. I've never been disappointed by Carbonda, and pretty happy with the quality on this one. They did forget to include my seatpost clamp, fortunately have a spare in my parts box. Will post more pictures later.
I've built up many frames up over the years, this is the first using an integrated handlebar (the CGB02).
Differences between CFR505-SL and CFR505:
- Headset size: 1-1/2"* 1-1/2”ACR (two 40 x 52 x 7mm: 45x45 deg bearings)
- Rotor size: 160/180 mm
- The rear brake cable exit was changed to the same design as CFR707
- The front derailleur cable routing was changed to the same design as FM1056
- Seat tube was changed to normal seat tube clamp design, same as CFR696
- Removed rack and fender mounts. Only keep two sets of water bottle cage mounts. (My frame has 3 with the downtube mount)
- Max tire size:700x42c / 650B*47c
- Max chainring: 50-34T / 42T
- T47 bottom bracket
- All mounts removed from fork. There are internal and external routing versions.
Build Notes:
- Rear caliper: flat mounts on the chain stay are 25mm thick, so if you're using Shimano calipers & SM-MA-R160D/D adapter, you will need 38mm long bolts (Shimano part Y8N208020)
- Headset bearings: Don't quite trust the quality of the supplied bearings, and considering what a PITA it will be to replace the them, I plan to order new Cane Creek or Enduro bearings for the build
- Front derailleur: cable uses housing from the shifter to to a plastic guide below the BB (pic attached). From there it's inner cable to the RD. You'll need around 1.4m of housing
- Rear derailleur: cable use housing from the shifter all the way back to the rear derailleur. I'm using a GRX810 RD, so I need to use the flexible Shimano OT-RS900 housing where the cable exits the frame to the RD. I'm using a Jagwire Double-Ended Housing Connector CHA062 to join the two cables. Note the Jagwire Pro cable kits (e.g. PCK500 ) also include the flexible cable section and double-ended connector.
- Get some Internal Housing Damper foam (6mm ID, 10mm OD) for the rear brake hose and shift cables to stop it rattling in the frame. I have some made by Jagwire (ZSK600), you'll need around 2-3m
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Got my CFR505-SL built up yesterday with Shimano GRX810! Still waiting for my wheel parts, so using a spare wheelset with 32mm tires until they arrive.
Did the inaugural ride ride today which was cut short by a slipping seatpost >:(. Carbonda forgot to include my seatpost clamp but immediately sent me one, which is in the mail. I'm using an old spare clamp I had, but it has never gripped well, even if the seatpost is slathered in carbon paste.
First impressions are that the bike is very comfortable, absorbs a lot of vibration from the road. I ordered the 420x90mm integrated handlebar, and I have to say the top is kinda narrow. I would say get at least a 20mm wider bar that your normal bar width. The drops are wide and very comfortable.
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@dogsbollocks what size is that?
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It's a large - 564.1mm top tube, 594.6mm stack & 388mm reach
@dogsbollocks what size is that?
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Hi, my 505SL arrived after 5 weeks in customs... Already build up, looks great! Only problem so far I choose FSA ACR headset, seems to work. I go for semi integrated to be flexible.
Which semi integrated stem will work with FSA? Right now I mounted a Specialized SL7 stem but the spacers do not fit...looks weird.
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Bike is ready and fun to ride. Setting up was easy with the help of a friend, just stem/handlebar was tricky. I decided to go for semi integrated as I love my cheap PRO Discover handlebar. Like so many others I had to learn that FSA headsets only go with FSA stems, so I ditched my favorised Specialized stem. The first FSA ACR/SMR built quite high and although we cut the fork quite conservatively it was too short... So I went for the FSA ACR stem which works fine with 10 mm spacer which will maybe be reduced. Now I needed an integrated handlebar and was surprised that there are not too many on the market that fit. I wanted a little flare so went for Ritchey. All the others have too much flare or no flare or, like deda, 31.7 mm instead of 31.8. Seems like everyone has his own systems and makes sure nothing fits.... I am quite happy with the bike. Unfortunately I had to install lights as winter is coming and it gets dark early.
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Great component choice which gives the bike a fast and clean look!
I'm curious about your ride impressions. Knowing it's a light frame and that the seat stays & the fork blades look thin, I'm wondered about the stiffness of this frame.
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As the CFR505/SL is a gravel frame, I would assume it's designed to be compliant and absorb vibration. I've been riding mine for a few weeks now, definitely a very comfortable ride. If you're looking for a super stiff race bike, this would not be it.
Great component choice which gives the bike a fast and clean look!
I'm curious about your ride impressions. Knowing it's a light frame and that the seat stays & the fork blades look thin, I'm wondered about the stiffness of this frame.
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As the CFR505/SL is a gravel frame, I would assume it's designed to be compliant and absorb vibration. I've been riding mine for a few weeks now, definitely a very comfortable ride. If you're looking for a super stiff race bike, this would not be it.
Thank you for your feedback, good to know it's very compliant. For me, compliance and stiffness (lateral & torsional ) are separate properties. For sure in gravel the absorption of shocks is important, but since it is marked as a gravel race frame, I would like to know how it accelerates and behaves in corners.
Thanks
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I think it likes corners ;-) I am 80 kilos and the 505sl isn't wobbly at all.
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Thank you for your feedback, good to know it's very compliant. For me, compliance and stiffness (lateral & torsional ) are separate properties. For sure in gravel the absorption of shocks is important, but since it is marked as a gravel race frame, I would like to know how it accelerates and behaves in corners.
Thanks
Isn't the cornering determined a lot from the rear length? If you check this the 505 (either the old or the SL) are quite short compared to other Gravel frames. How stable the steering is depends on the angle of the fork and the trail.. and the stem length. ;).. so you can tune this a bit. But the rear geometry is fixed.
Compared to a road bike the 505 is a bit less nervous. For the stiffness of the SL I am out.. cause I have the "old" one.
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How do you protect the chainstay?
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As the CFR505/SL is a gravel frame, I would assume it's designed to be compliant and absorb vibration. I've been riding mine for a few weeks now, definitely a very comfortable ride. If you're looking for a super stiff race bike, this would not be it.
Put 25mm tires on a deep carbon wheelset, and you'll get a stiff bike feel with it 8)
Compliance comes from big tires, and the 27.2 seatpost(something you can't make stiffer ;D), the frame and fork are not flexing at all.
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How do you protect the chainstay?
I bought a roll of helicopter tape on Amazon, and cut a kind of trapeze(20-25cm long, 25mm at the derailleur - 15mm at the BB) with rounded corners on all bikes I build
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Does this frameset have mudguard mounts? I've read that it doesn't but unless my eyes are deceiving me I think I can just make one out on the RH dropout in one of the photos of jakonodi's bike.
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No, there is no holes at the back of the BB.
And not on top of the fork.
But I use this now:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGtdEAD
Does this frameset have mudguard mounts? I've read that it doesn't but unless my eyes are deceiving me I think I can just make one out on the RH dropout in one of the photos of jakonodi's bike.
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Does this frameset have mudguard mounts? I've read that it doesn't but unless my eyes are deceiving me I think I can just make one out on the RH dropout in one of the photos of jakonodi's bike.
I do have the classic 505 and still..i use the quickly removable fenders. Very similar to the ones from Carbonazza, they are the SKS Speedrocker. They cover the wheels a bit more. They are very functional, I use my 505 as commuter bike and I ride at any wheather :)
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Thanks both, but I need full coverage mudguards. Shame - this would be a great winter bike frame otherwise.
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@dogsbollocks are you based in the UK? Also, what headset cover are you using? Is it a Carbonda supplied one?
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I just stumbled across this thread. The frame and it's quality (plus good seller reputation!) is very tempting! ... if there wasn't the short distance between front axle and bb ... since I rode my current Velobuild GF001 in Norway on long and steep climbs I became allergic to toe overlap. This is one of the main reasons why I want a new frame...
P.S. I was also tempted to buy either the Lexon GFX or BXT 135 since they have enough room for my toes. But how very helpful this forum is which keeps me from buying junk from bad vendors.
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Hi all
First of a couple of posts about my build of this bike.
I’ve bought the integrated frameset in XL painted RAL 5025 - metallic effect Pearl Gentian Blue. The frame has arrived and quality of manufacture and paint job is very high, even better than the already good 29er hardtail I bought from Carbonda last year.
I wasn’t sure whether I’d want offset or zero offset seatpost so bought both. And like a number of others looking at Carbonda’s integrated gravel bars, CGB02, ideally I’d have wanted a longer stem and narrower bar than they offer (80x400, 90x420, 90x440, 100x440). But I took a punt at their 44cm bars and 100mm stem version. And as someone else has observed, they actually feel narrower than their stated width, which for my preferences is a good thing. They feel stiff and the cable ports are well finished (and wide).
I’m halfway through building with the parts listed below. Will post pictures and conclusion when finished. For now, a word on the headset:
I wanted to replace the headset that came with the frame - mainly because I don’t trust the bearings (and with an integrated set up I didn’t want to be replacing them in a hurry…), but also because the FSA ACR headset cover looks neater than the Carbonda one. So I ordered the FSA ACR #55, which is compatible with the Carbonda bars (and spacers). Slightly problematic. The headset top cover works well with the bars, and looks better than the Carbonda one. And it is compatible with Carnonda’s top bearing compression ring (which as it happens looks like a better design than the FSA one). But the FSA bearings are a) 51.8 OD wheareas the Carbonda ones are 52 (which is the required size for the frame, the 51.8 bearings are a bit loose); b) the FSA bearings are 36/45 and the Carbonda ones are 45/45 (which makes no difference if you don’t mix and match race and compression ring); but c) the FSA bearings sit much lower in the frame and so (either) top cover rubs against the top of the headtube when tightened. So, I’ve gone and ordered a pair of Hambini MH-P16 bearings and plan to use these with the Carbonda compression ring, Carbonda crown race and FSA headset top cover. We’ll see.
Build list:
- SRAM Force XPLR 2023 1x (with Pass Quest 42T chainring)
- Ali X cheap ‘Carbon Fibre’ saddle. Now use this on all my bikes - cheap and comfortable, even on my hardtail
- ZTTO T47 bottom bracket. Looks ok, not ridden.
- two pairs of wheels: both rims supplied by Leon at Yuananbike - 24mm internal, 39mm depth tubeless hooked. One pair will be built 28/28 with Pillar Wing 20 straight pull on Goldix GDR310 hubs. Waiting on rims. Other pair being built 24/24 with Sapim CX Ray on Malcolm’s Borg hubs (The Cycle Clinic). Will put 33mm slicks on the 24/24 and Conti Terra Trails on the 28/28.
- ZTTO bottle cages.
Cheers
Ben
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I didn't find it in the threat: Could anybody comment on frame and fork weight?
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The pictures Wing sent me showed 980g and 400g unpainted. I think for XL but not sure. I didn’t weigh the frame/forks painted.
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980? Dont Carbonda claim a 1200 weight? That is a big weight improvement.
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If I’m not mistaken 1200 is the original 505. This is the 2023 CFR505 SL (Super Light).
980? Dont Carbonda claim a 1200 weight? That is a big weight improvement.
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If I’m not mistaken 1200 is the original 505. This is the 2023 CFR505 SL (Super Light).
Exactly! Although the shape and geometry stayed rather unchanged, the usage was shifted to more allroad than bikepacking. As its less strong e.g it's not having all the mounts.
That's not bad in general , but if anybody wants that for bikepacking, the SL is maybe not the best choice.
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Almost built. Just waiting on rotors and tape to arrive.
Build was unproblematic. Internal hose routing through the integrated stem/bars was obviously more of a faff than external routing but not a deal-breaker. Only very minor complaint is the rear caliper mounts aren’t perfectly faced - but not so off to bother rectifying.
Without doubt the hardest and most time consuming job was mounting the Challenge tyres. WTAF. I almost cried, broke my thumbs, cut them up and set fire to them. I’ve mounted many tubeless tyres on many different rims but this was on a whole new scale of ridiculous. Not getting them off in a hurry/ever.
I plan to use it most of the time on road with offroad outings here and there - so wanted something sprightly enough for the former without being so aggressive it’s limited for the latter. I knew I wouldn’t need many if any spacers given how massive the headtube is, and I wasn’t wrong - esp with the positive angle stem / bars.
Paint looks great in the flesh - metallic effect hard to come through in the photos.
7.3kg not including pedals or rotors or bar tape. Pretty good for an XL build that’s not massively weight weenie (wheels are 1530g, tyres 335each etc)
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Exactly! Although the shape and geometry stayed rather unchanged, the usage was shifted to more allroad than bikepacking. As its less strong e.g it's not having all the mounts.
That's not bad in general , but if anybody wants that for bikepacking, the SL is maybe not the best choice.
Or you can take the new frame with the old fork
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Or you can take the new frame with the old fork
I am not sure if this is completely compatible in the crown sizing. I would guess so.. at least this would be only a bit cosmetic, but not a functional thing.
Due to some bad luck I needed to order a new fork for my old 505. And the one thing that you need to consider: the old fork comes with external routing only. And the new fork with internal routing only. I asked if the new fork could be an option .
I was also considering a new frameset frankly, but all of my friends said "you always tell everybody how happy you are with your gravel." They are right... and Carbonda will paint it in my color, they still had the color swatch of my painting. That's awesome..
(Plus I have a brand new Yoeleo build finished 4 weeks ago.. bad timing)
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(Plus I have a brand new Yoeleo build finished 4 weeks ago.. bad timing)
How did you experience the order process of your Yoeleo? I am considering to order the R12 but I read some negative stories on delivery times etc.
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How did you experience the order process of your Yoeleo? I am considering to order the R12 but I read some negative stories on delivery times etc.
I bought it brandnwe from someone in Europe. Sorry, I have no experience with direct orders at Yoeleo.
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Here's a new build with a mulet with the new SRAM Red shfiters/brakes - GX Transmission derailleur - X0 Transmission cassette and chain
And the Lexon gravel bar https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004788375665.html which is very nice and stiff
To have a better chainline (49mm instead of the road limited to 47.5mm) I did put a non boost MTB crankset.
So there was no more rubbing of the chain.
The setup app is limited to 38T, so with this 44T I did add 6 links(inner+outer) to the 118 advised.
But had to remove one after testing.
From two other builds, for better shifting, the setup key had to be set on B even if the app was saying A.
But not on this one. So the setup app is not really accurate for mullet builds.
Edit: I forgot the wheels, these are the WR40 from lightbicycle with their carbon aero spokes + ceramic hub v2.0
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Here's a new build with a mulet with the new SRAM Red shfiters/brakes - GX Transmission derailleur - X0 Transmission cassette and chain
And the Lexon gravel bar https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004788375665.html which is very nice and stiff
To have a better chainline (49mm instead of the road limited to 47.5mm) I did put a non boost MTB crankset.
So there was no more rubbing of the chain.
The setup app is limited to 38T, so with this 44T I did add 6 links(inner+outer) to the 118 advised.
But had to remove one after testing.
From two other builds, for better shifting, the setup key had to be set on B even if the app was saying A.
But not on this one. So the setup app is not really accurate for mullet builds.
super nice build. Any idea of the total cost?
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super nice build. Any idea of the total cost?
No, as I didn't buy the components myself.
All prices are on r2-bike.com
1160USD for the wheels
1100USD for the frame set + paint
The RED shifters are prohibitive, but look and feel better than before.
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Nice looking bikes! Has anybody checked the real tire clearances. Could you squeeze in a 45mm tyre?
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Nice looking bikes! Has anybody checked the real tire clearances. Could you squeeze in a 45mm tyre?
Last week I installed 45mm tires (vredestein aventura on 26mm internal width rim) on my bike. There is still a bit of space and after a couple of semi-wet rides, I can conclude they don't touch or damage the chainstays while riding.
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I'm interested in this frame with a 1x SRAM AXS group. However the 42T max chainring size is not enough. I need minimum 46t for this build.
The old 505 on carbonda site says max size 46t. How big can you guys fit on your 505SL frame?
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I'm interested in this frame with a 1x SRAM AXS group. However the 42T max chainring size is not enough. I need minimum 46t for this build.
The old 505 on carbonda site says max size 46t. How big can you guys fit on your 505SL frame?
I'm currently running a 48T (oval) chainring without any issue and could even go bigger. I must say, my crank is a rotor 3D24 crank which I previously used for 2X chainring. Not sure how much that influences the space between the frame and the chainring.
My set-up is AXS Xplorer derailleur with 10/44 cassette (goldix) and 48t chainring with an shimano 12sp chain. No issues so far.
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Thanks for the feedback!
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Some reflections having put some miles in on the bike. In case helpful for those maybe thinking about one.
All told I’m very happy with it and would recommend. I guess the way that gravel bikes are going this is going to be seen more as an all-Road bike than a gravel bike, principally because you’re limited to 42-45mm tyres (I’ve got 44mm Mezcals on no prob, but would be wary about going bigger in clingy-mud). And lack of mounts mean it’s not designed for bike packing etc. But that suits what I want it for and I’ve been happily riding it fast on the road with 33mm slicks and off-road on 44mms. I haven’t found its ability to do both a compromise on either which I thought I might. If I’m on stuff where 44mm isn’t enough I’d rather take my mtb anyway.
I had seatpost slipping issues - the seat tube is +0.15mm over and 2 Carbonda seatposts supplied are both under 27.2 to about the same degree. No amount of carbon paste was solving the issue. The seat collar supplied is 13mm high - I wondered if a taller collar (18mm?) would solve the problem but most collar listings don’t specify height dimensions and the few that do all seem to be max 15mm. In the end I solved the problem with some adhesive 0.2mm vinyl sheeting designed for covering books. A single layer of that on the seat post has worked without issues.
On chainrings - I’m running the stated max 42T ring with a 6mm offset (as recommended) on a SRAM DUB road crank (with 10x44 XPLR cassette). I don’t think you could go more than 42T with this set up without putting on a ring without an offset (or maybe 3mm instead of 6) - there isn’t much room to play with, see pictures. I’ll defer to others’ experience of increasing the chainline on shifting performance and wear etc. As it happens I don’t spin out with 42x10 until over 40mph which is fine by me for the type of riding I’m doing on this.
Finally - in going 1x fully wireless without a chain guide I had to buy some rubber hole plugs/bungs to cover the unused holes. Cheap on eBay.
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Picture now included
Some reflections having put some miles in on the bike. In case helpful for those maybe thinking about one.
All told I’m very happy with it and would recommend. I guess the way that gravel bikes are going this is going to be seen more as an all-Road bike than a gravel bike, principally because you’re limited to 42-45mm tyres (I’ve got 44mm Mezcals on no prob, but would be wary about going bigger in clingy-mud). And lack of mounts mean it’s not designed for bike packing etc. But that suits what I want it for and I’ve been happily riding it fast on the road with 33mm slicks and off-road on 44mms. I haven’t found its ability to do both a compromise on either which I thought I might. If I’m on stuff where 44mm isn’t enough I’d rather take my mtb anyway.
I had seatpost slipping issues - the seat tube is +0.15mm over and 2 Carbonda seatposts supplied are both under 27.2 to about the same degree. No amount of carbon paste was solving the issue. The seat collar supplied is 13mm high - I wondered if a taller collar (18mm?) would solve the problem but most collar listings don’t specify height dimensions and the few that do all seem to be max 15mm. In the end I solved the problem with some adhesive 0.2mm vinyl sheeting designed for covering books. A single layer of that on the seat post has worked without issues.
On chainrings - I’m running the stated max 42T ring with a 6mm offset (as recommended) on a SRAM DUB road crank (with 10x44 XPLR cassette). I don’t think you could go more than 42T with this set up without putting on a ring without an offset (or maybe 3mm instead of 6) - there isn’t much room to play with, see pictures. I’ll defer to others’ experience of increasing the chainline on shifting performance and wear etc. As it happens I don’t spin out with 42x10 until over 40mph which is fine by me for the type of riding I’m doing on this.
Finally - in going 1x fully wireless without a chain guide I had to buy some rubber hole plugs/bungs to cover the unused holes. Cheap on eBay.
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Can an owner of a 505sl measure the tire clearance for 650b? If I can put 52mm measured width 650b tires with ~2.5-3 mm clearance on all sides then this frame becomes extremely attractive to me. Even 50mm would probably be enough, but I’d like to have options.
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Hi lovely build.
what was the price for f &F and bars etc?
thanks
John
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...I had to buy some rubber hole plugs/bungs to cover the unused holes. Cheap on eBay...
Do you have the links? I always miss some...
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Do you have the links? I always miss some...
I bought them from here:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264763709464?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=AoBSuMVjTx2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=6Z99glLAQgu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
For seat tube holes I used Size A (5.5mm shaft diameter).
They ship from China so probably can be found cheaper on Ali etc but not big bucks either way.
B
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Hi lovely build.
what was the price for f &F and bars etc?
thanks
John
This is what Wing @ Carbondale quoted me, noting prices change:
CFR505 SL : US$660.00 with frame, fork, seat post,clamp.
CFR505 SL : US$820.00 .with frame, fork, seat post ，clamp. +handleabr CGB02
headset: US $15.00
F&R axle: US $26.00
extra rear derailleur hangers: US$8.00
spacers: 10MM , 5MM a set : $5
( It contained in the CGB02 handlebar, if you do not buy the CGB02 handlebar,Spacers are not present by default , It need additional purchase required)
extra rear derailleur hangers: US$5.00
(One is included with the accessories and one is mounted on the frame.)
standard matte : free
standard matte is between black matte and UD matte , It have clear coat protect the paint
UD matte , UD glossy : $105
One color: US:$70.00(matte or glossy,solid color )
Two colors: US$ :95.00 ( all matte or all glossy,solid color )
Two colors: US$ :105.00 ( matte and glossy,solid color )
Two color gradient : US$ :115.00 ( all matte or all glossy ,solid color )
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You'll need a 1.5" dust cover
Ritchey is doing one :
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/ritchey-comp-logic-e-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-headset-upper
This one looks promising, but I never tried :
https://acros-components.com/en/headsets/is52-headset-cover---integrated-cable-routing?number=24.52.113-OD56-AM
How funny, these are the two I was also split on! The acros one seems nice for the multiple ports, as I will run mechanical shifting at this time.
From your experience building up these all internal open mold frames, how would you recommend I go for running my two brake hoses AND a shifter housing line? I live in the American Southwest, it is extremely dry so rain/moisture is NOT a concern.
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How funny, these are the two I was also split on! The acros one seems nice for the multiple ports, as I will run mechanical shifting at this time.
From your experience building up these all internal open mold frames, how would you recommend I go for running my two brake hoses AND a shifter housing line? I live in the American Southwest, it is extremely dry so rain/moisture is NOT a concern.
Each time I'm asked for one, I try to convince the rider to consider electronic shifting 8)
A definite no is cable disc brakes. Hydro brakes are easier to work with and require a fork with an internal hole.
Shifting needs a bit more care, there will be some additional turns in your hose, which add friction. Avoid sharp curves as much as you can.
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I received my CFR505-SL this week, building up with Shimano GRX810 2x11. I've never been disappointed by Carbonda, and pretty happy with the quality on this one. They did forget to include my seatpost clamp, fortunately have a spare in my parts box. Will post more pictures later.
I've built up many frames up over the years, this is the first using an integrated handlebar (the CGB02).
Differences between CFR505-SL and CFR505:
- Headset size: 1-1/2"* 1-1/2”ACR (two 40 x 52 x 7mm: 45x45 deg bearings)
- Rotor size: 160/180 mm
- The rear brake cable exit was changed to the same design as CFR707
- The front derailleur cable routing was changed to the same design as FM1056
- Seat tube was changed to normal seat tube clamp design, same as CFR696
- Removed rack and fender mounts. Only keep two sets of water bottle cage mounts. (My frame has 3 with the downtube mount)
- Max tire size:700x42c / 650B*47c
- Max chainring: 50-34T / 42T
- T47 bottom bracket
- All mounts removed from fork. There are internal and external routing versions.
Build Notes:
- Rear caliper: flat mounts on the chain stay are 25mm thick, so if you're using Shimano calipers & SM-MA-R160D/D adapter, you will need 38mm long bolts (Shimano part Y8N208020)
- Headset bearings: Don't quite trust the quality of the supplied bearings, and considering what a PITA it will be to replace the them, I plan to order new Cane Creek or Enduro bearings for the build
- Front derailleur: cable uses housing from the shifter to to a plastic guide below the BB (pic attached). From there it's inner cable to the RD. You'll need around 1.4m of housing
- Rear derailleur: cable use housing from the shifter all the way back to the rear derailleur. I'm using a GRX810 RD, so I need to use the flexible Shimano OT-RS900 housing where the cable exits the frame to the RD. I'm using a Jagwire Double-Ended Housing Connector CHA062 to join the two cables. Note the Jagwire Pro cable kits (e.g. PCK500 ) also include the flexible cable section and double-ended connector.
- Get some Internal Housing Damper foam (6mm ID, 10mm OD) for the rear brake hose and shift cables to stop it rattling in the frame. I have some made by Jagwire (ZSK600), you'll need around 2-3m
Did you get the headset from Carbonda and just replace the bearings? Which bearings did you end up ordering - I am finding the headset compatibility with integrated bars very confusing!
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Yeah it is a bit confusing. In the end i:
- replaced the bearings with MH-P16 40x52x7 45/45 - also known as 1B3 K4052H7 MR128 TH-070E MR170. I bought mine from Hambini at £11 each.
- used Carbonda’s crown race and top compression ring (through which cables feed)
- used an FSA ACR 55R dust cap, along with an FSA ACR spacer. The FSA ACR dust cap is compatible with the Carbonda compression ring and the FSA spacers are compatible with the Carbonda bars.
For reference (I learned by trial and error) - the FSA 55R ACR bearings are 51.8x8. This means they’re not compatible with Carbonda’s crown race or compression ring. And the design of the frame means you can’t run an FSA 55R top bearing, FSA 55R compression ring and FSA 55R dustcover because the bearing seats lower in the top of the head tube, the compression ring has a lower stack height and so taken together the dust cover rubs on the top of the head tube.
The FSA dust cover aesthetically is a lot nicer than the Carbonda one - not sure if you can buy it separately without having to buy the whole headset.
Hope that helps!
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Each time I'm asked for one, I try to convince the rider to consider electronic shifting 8)
A definite no is cable disc brakes. Hydro brakes are easier to work with and require a fork with an internal hole.
Shifting needs a bit more care, there will be some additional turns in your hose, which add friction. Avoid sharp curves as much as you can.
Yes thank you! I am more so looking at how I will be altering the ritchey cap port for two lines in one port with rubber grommet.
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Yes thank you! I am more so looking at how I will be altering the ritchey cap port for two lines in one port with rubber grommet.
The inner rubber grommet can be removed, to give you more space to run gear cables. No idea what kind of shifting quality you will get with this type of routing though.
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The inner rubber grommet can be removed, to give you more space to run gear cables. No idea what kind of shifting quality you will get with this type of routing though.
Well, yes it can be removed, but that defeats the purpose of a form fitting rubber piece to insulate from liquids. Those who have used this system would be more familiar with what I am talking about.
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Each time I'm asked for one, I try to convince the rider to consider electronic shifting 8)
A definite no is cable disc brakes. Hydro brakes are easier to work with and require a fork with an internal hole.
Shifting needs a bit more care, there will be some additional turns in your hose, which add friction. Avoid sharp curves as much as you can.
And that's the best advice. Try to route it as smooth as possible on the complete frame. The entry point on the steerer instead of the side of the frame does not really change a lot.
Even if you route through a handlebar it can work really fine. However this routing creates a lot of pain for the build process itself >:(
If I would go for a 505SL with mechanic 2x drive train I would enter the hoses into the top cap. Which is almost invisible then, but you don't have to fight with the handlebar.
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And that's the best advice. Try to route it as smooth as possible on the complete frame. The entry point on the steerer instead of the side of the frame does not really change a lot.
Even if you route through a handlebar it can work really fine. However this routing creates a lot of pain for the build process itself >:(
If I would go for a 505SL with mechanic 2x drive train I would enter the hoses into the top cap. Which is almost invisible then, but you don't have to fight with the handlebar.
Got it! Yes, I am definitely looking at routing the way Canyon does their new Grail as seen here: https://escapecollective.com/2024-canyon-grail-cf-cfr-slx-gravel-bike-review/
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Got it! Yes, I am definitely looking at routing the way Canyon does their new Grail as seen here: https://escapecollective.com/2024-canyon-grail-cf-cfr-slx-gravel-bike-review/
That's exactly the setup I would prefer for a mechanic groupset.
Almost invisible but less pain in the build process. But get a decent headset.. changing the bearings is connected to disconnecting everything ;D.
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Hi, I made a lot of miles or kilometers as we say in Germany on the 505SL an I really like the bike. I just struggle to find a nice cockpit. Looking for one piece, 400/100 with 12-20 degrees of flare. Any suggestions? I am a bit scared to buy the one on ali as it as a crucial safety component and I want to avoid risks. Has to be ACR compatible and no Metron/Vision.
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Hi everyone, first post here, nice builds!
I have a 505sl on the way. I have a few questions to which Carbonda's answers were not realy clear.
I chose the version with internal routing. Carbonda's description is as follows: “If you choose internal routing, the frame needs to use internal routing fork and it will have cable routing holes at the headtube”.
I'm not sure to understand. Is there a hole in the steerer tube? Is it possible to use other systems than FSA ACR, or does it have to be ACR compatible? Not being limited by ACR compatible components would open up the stem options for my build.
According to carbonda the rotor size would be 140mm (160mm with adapter) at the FRONT and 160mm at the REAR, is this correct?
Thanks for your answers
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I just completed by Carbonda 505SL Transmission Mullet Build last weekend. Very much in a rod going guise while living in Singapore, and will get a gravel wheelset for when I return to Australia.
Carbonda Frame, Seatpost, Integrated Handlebars and Integrated Headet
SRAM Force 1x Quarg Cranks
SRAM XO AXS Transmission Derailler
SRAM Eagle 10-52 Wide Range Cassette
SRAM Rival Levers/Brakes
SRAM Dub T47 Bottom Bracket
Elitewheels Edge 65mm Carbon
Continental GP5000 30mm Tires with TPU Tubes
Look X-Track Carbon Race Pedals
Came in at 8.0kg all up, which I was impressed with, given I was never really focusing on weight.
I am not very experienced with servicing/building bikes, but I am pleased with how it's turned out. Bar tape needs some work but I'll live with it until I have another reason to take it off! Any questions just ask.
Early days, but I am impressed with the Carbonda parts. Well packed, very well painted, no defects. Mostly road riding for now, feels good, comfortable, fast, looks great.
One question - does anyone know if any where else sells compatible headset spacers (for under the stem)? I got the schematic from Wing for 3D printing but no means to do that, and its a lot of shipping for such a small and cheap part, so I was wondering if anyone had experience with a compatible brand/design - I just need another 10mm to relax the position a bit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/67QwPXk8/Whats-App-Image-2024-09-08-at-17-47-04.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/67QwPXk8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zb6JWcPV/Whats-App-Image-2024-09-08-at-17-47-35.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zb6JWcPV)
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Hi
Good luck with the build. Yes the fork has a hole I. The steerer tube for the front brake hose to exit (and then through headtube). The rear hose and gear cables if you use them will feed through the frame (downtube) and then into and out from headtube.
You don’t have to use an ACR system if you change the headset supplied and don’t use Carbonda’s bars (both of which, plus spacers are ACR type). Just make sure you get the right size headset (see my previous post). I think others have used DCR type full internal and integrated, for instance. Or you could you could get a semi internal headset so the cables come out of the headset leaving you free to choose any type of stem and bar - but arguably this kind of negates the point of getting the internally routed frame option in the first place.
(Thinking out loud - I guess it’s possible you could use the ACR headset with a custom spacer that provides compatibility between an ACR headset and another type of integrated bar, but I’ve no idea if such a thing exists. Others may know.)
Hope that helps.
Ben
Hi everyone, first post here, nice builds!
I have a 505sl on the way. I have a few questions to which Carbonda's answers were not realy clear.
I chose the version with internal routing. Carbonda's description is as follows: “If you choose internal routing, the frame needs to use internal routing fork and it will have cable routing holes at the headtube”.
I'm not sure to understand. Is there a hole in the steerer tube? Is it possible to use other systems than FSA ACR, or does it have to be ACR compatible? Not being limited by ACR compatible components would open up the stem options for my build.
According to carbonda the rotor size would be 140mm (160mm with adapter) at the FRONT and 160mm at the REAR, is this correct?
Thanks for your answers
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Hi, thanks for the precisions.
I'm planning to use Sram AXS components (only two brake lines and no cables).
As the steerer tube has a hole, then I think I'm not limited to the ACR system (where the stem seems to be designed to allow the front brake line to pass through the inside of the steerer tube from the top). This opens up my possibilities, and I guess I should be able to use, for example, the Deda DCR system or a Ritchey comp switch stem with the fitting headset.
My idea was to be able to test different stem sizes at first before settling on an aero handlebar/stem of the right size.
About brake rotors, do I need a 140mm to 160mm adapter for the front or the rear (front according to carbonda)?
Thanks a lot!
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Has anyone worked out how to put full mudguards on these?
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Hi all, I ordered a 505 sl. I think it will be a good frame for both light gravel and road riding.
Thus I would like to use a 52/34 front combination. Do you think it will fit a 52? "Officcially" it fits only 50t front but maybe someone put already a 52 on the frame?
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Hi Im about to order a 505 sl to use for bike packing so will need to take it apart. If I went with the stem bar that they supply with integrated cabling is it possible to leave enough slack in the brake cable so i can remove the bars for transport. Ill be on sram wireless so only brakes.
thanks
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The rear hose should be ok - you can build in enough slack through downtime etc - but the front is where you’ll find it more challenging. I’d say it was manageable, just, although you may need to remove the front caliper to give enough slack. Challenge might not be getting the bars off but then having enough slack to get them in the box in the position you want?
Bottom line, integrated sucks for travelling with bikes. Personally I wouldn’t bother. Not least because, if you’re bike-packing then the minimal aero benefits are null and void, and the clean and tidy look is surely undone by all the bags you’re draping off the bike ;)
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Ben, thanks for the reply…so semi integrated better. Im not fussed about aero but a clean look is preferable, at least if i can undo the bars there will enough slack for packing it away.
im also thinking about getting a suspension stem like redshock for longer rides where in the past I've suffered.
i will sort out the stem and bars once ive got it here.
Is it worth buying the bearings and spacers or do these limit my choices?
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Has anyone routed dynamo cables in to this frame?
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I've just built my Carbonda, are you wanting front wheel dynamo or rear? I found the rear hydraulic exit was quite tight but the front I think would be able to squeeze in some cables. Could easily widen the hole if not
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Gravel build with SRAM Eagle GX, Force 40t. Light carbon wheels with 45mm tyres. The first frame arrived damaged and Wing immediately built a replacement. Very happy with the result.
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Here's a new build with a mulet with the new SRAM Red shfiters/brakes - GX Transmission derailleur - X0 Transmission cassette and chain
And the Lexon gravel bar https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004788375665.html which is very nice and stiff
To have a better chainline (49mm instead of the road limited to 47.5mm) I did put a non boost MTB crankset.
So there was no more rubbing of the chain.
The setup app is limited to 38T, so with this 44T I did add 6 links(inner+outer) to the 118 advised.
But had to remove one after testing.
From two other builds, for better shifting, the setup key had to be set on B even if the app was saying A.
But not on this one. So the setup app is not really accurate for mullet builds.
Edit: I forgot the wheels, these are the WR40 from lightbicycle with their carbon aero spokes + ceramic hub v2.0
Great build! What components did you use for mounting the lexon bar? Did you use the original carbonda dust cover or the one provided with the lexon gravel bar?
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I've just built my Carbonda, are you wanting front wheel dynamo or rear? I found the rear hydraulic exit was quite tight but the front I think would be able to squeeze in some cables. Could easily widen the hole if not
Probably the front - but it's not going to be a definite deal breaker. I'm not even sure I'd use dynamo tbh.