Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: BadIdeasMakeGoodStories on March 10, 2024, 10:59:24 PM
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Have been checking AliExpress every few months in the hope of a cheap(er) disc TT frame coming to the market. My prayers have finally been answered: the TT-119.
http://www.winowsports.com/product/disc-brake-carbon-tt-frame-TT119-road-disc-frame-triathlon-frame.html (http://www.winowsports.com/product/disc-brake-carbon-tt-frame-TT119-road-disc-frame-triathlon-frame.html)
BSA BB, clearance for 32c! tires, support for standard stems and mechanical shifting, and relatively modern geometry.
Has anyone had experience with other Winow frames or know who they've done ODM work for? I see it being resold by BXT, but no one else, and the geo seems unique to them.
I am planning to inquire about the price of a frameset without the basebar and extensions and may likely pull the trigger if it's low enough, but would love to learn more before if possible.
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just to share that im currently building my TT912, and for the stem part, TanTan can source me the same 2piece stem+ 31.8 basebar as on the winow 119 instead of the integrated monoriser basebar that they advertised (if this is your requirement)
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Has anyone had experience with other Winow frames or know who they've done ODM work for? I see it being resold by BXT, but no one else, and the geo seems unique to them.
The Hygge Model S is also a Winow frame. You can look up the thread here. There are no problems with that frame as I know of so far (I have one myself).
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How much does it cost
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I bought 2 frames from Winow. The other 2 are Long teng. I prefer the LT, but they're very similar. If I have to nitpick, The LT had better BB tolerances (one of the Winow frames, the BB on 1 frame got in too easy compared to the other 3 frames), the Winow seatpost is too thin to house the er9 battery (irrelevant to you, but pretty annoying).
They're all fine though. Havent ridden the Winow ones, but i doubt i could tell the difference. My friends are happy but it's still winter and they havent ridden much. The geometry is a bit more aggressive on the winow, but that's irrelevant to your situation.
They're bomb proof aero frames for c.80kg dudes, basically.
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I bought 2 frames from Winow. The other 2 are Long teng. I prefer the LT, but they're very similar. If I have to nitpick, The LT had better BB tolerances (one of the Winow frames, the BB on 1 frame got in too easy compared to the other 3 frames), the Winow seatpost is too thin to house the er9 battery (irrelevant to you, but pretty annoying).
They're all fine though. Havent ridden the Winow ones, but i doubt i could tell the difference. My friends are happy but it's still winter and they havent ridden much. The geometry is a bit more aggressive on the winow, but that's irrelevant to your situation.
They're bomb proof aero frames for c.80kg dudes, basically.
Love the tractor frame :D which model is that?
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Love the tractor frame :D which model is that?
LT268. Love that bike :)
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Ended up ordering during the last day of the sale. Opted for custom painting so it will be a bit before I receive the frame. Will post on the build process and result once completed!
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Received yesterday. Overall pretty impressed with the weight and paint job. Definitely better than I could've done myself.
Came with a Profile Design bento box, 43asc clone extensions. Seatpost includes a 10mm thru rail. Basebar was 400mm and appears reversible. Included riser bolts mandate using every riser spacer. Will work out thread pitch and length and update tomorrow when I order extras.
Routing exits bars into the stem then down through the top tube, 3T/Cervelo style.
Maximum seatpost insertion is ~110mm due to the wheel cutout; if your saddle height is <810mm from centre of the BB cutting it down will be mandatory.
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Info for anyone else who may be purchasing. Spacer bolts are M5, I bought sets in 20mm increments from 40-100mm from Bolt Depot for <$10 to play with pad height. I believe the spacers are compatible with the PD A3A riser kit, but have yet to order and check -- still getting other aspects of the fit dialed.
Some niggles:
- the hardware holding the arm rests / clamping the extensions is incredibly soft. I recommend replacing it right away.
- had to sand down the seatpost to allow for movement within the seattube
- bottle cage mounts are too far down the downtube to mount a standard bottle cage. Even with a sideloader the rear wheel cut out is too large to allow the bottle to sit flush. Might be fixed on larger sizes, but if even a 54 is too small I doubt it. Using a Wolftooth B-Rad to move it farther up the downtube for now, and planning to try the Cervelo aero bottle, which looks like it may clear.
- Stem clamps from only one side and has a weak hold on the steerer. Needs to be torqued to 6-7Nm or it still wants to turn. Going to try adding some carbon paste and see if that helps.
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nice build
on my tt912, i also suffer the bottle boss so far low, that it just fits the provided Elite aero bottle.
im not sure if TT913 fixed this issue.
On my tt912, i think i used similar stem type as yours (stem n basebar are split components). I smeared lotsa carbon paste, seemed to work. but for my case the 2 bolt got loose after a while. gotta threadlock blue that
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How much does this frameset cost?
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Frameset + cockpit was $620, painting was $80/colour. Full build excluding wheels came in just under $2100:
Component Item Price
Frameset Winow TT917 $620
Frameset Frame Painting $160
Saddle Specialized Sitero $86
Bars w. Frame -
Stem w. Frame -
Chainring AXS 48/31 Part Out $51
RD Rival AXS $110
FD Rival AXS $106
Batteries Takewell $23
Crankset Zele-A12X-OS 150 $47
Chain Force AXS $25
Bar Tape Fizik Tacky - Red $25
Levers RideRever Triva Hydro $281
Cable / Hose Damping Amazon Brand $9
Calipers w. Levers $0
Bottom Bracket ZTTO 24mm BSA $12
Pedals Look Keo2Max $80
Shifting eTap Blips $168
Shifting Leap Components Blip Mounts+Buttons $72
PM Quarq $270
Garmin Mount $72
Coupon Anniversary Sale -$120
Coupon TopCashback 40 -$40
Saving by going w. cheaper pedals, saddle, mech v. hydro levers, or 11 spd Di2 would probably get you down to $1.4k-ish all in. Even less if you don't care about shifting from the basebar and do full mechanical.
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Thank you very much.
can you say somethign abotu your shifting and brakign solution?
How can you shift at the base bar?
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Nice bike!
Pretty sure I am going to order one of these with the next sale. Been looking for something that can run 32mm tires. I want that extra comfort. So many triathlons require riding on the shoulder or a road that isn't perfect.
Can I ask what frame size you went with and your height/inseam? I am looking at the 54, which should fit my 182/81 the best based on geometry and my sizing for other brands.
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Info for anyone else who may be purchasing. Spacer bolts are M5, I bought sets in 20mm increments from 40-100mm from Bolt Depot for <$10 to play with pad height. I believe the spacers are compatible with the PD A3A riser kit, but have yet to order and check -- still getting other aspects of the fit dialed.
Some niggles:
- the hardware holding the arm rests / clamping the extensions is incredibly soft. I recommend replacing it right away.
- had to sand down the seatpost to allow for movement within the seattube
- bottle cage mounts are too far down the downtube to mount a standard bottle cage. Even with a sideloader the rear wheel cut out is too large to allow the bottle to sit flush. Might be fixed on larger sizes, but if even a 54 is too small I doubt it. Using a Wolftooth B-Rad to move it farther up the downtube for now, and planning to try the Cervelo aero bottle, which looks like it may clear.
- Stem clamps from only one side and has a weak hold on the steerer. Needs to be torqued to 6-7Nm or it still wants to turn. Going to try adding some carbon paste and see if that helps.
a bit out of topic but what powermeter are you using with the zele cranks?
I have the same cranks and deciding whether to get a spider based or pedal based PM.
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a bit out of topic but what powermeter are you using with the zele cranks?
I have the same cranks and deciding whether to get a spider based or pedal based PM.
I am using a SRAM Quarq. If you intend on purchasing an aerosensor at some point there's possibly some merit to opting for a dual-sided pedal system. Quarqs are nearly as good, ~1/5th the price, and allow for experimenting with aero pedal options.
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I am using a SRAM Quarq. If you intend on purchasing an aerosensor at some point there's possibly some merit to opting for a dual-sided pedal system. Quarqs are nearly as good, ~1/5th the price, and allow for experimenting with aero pedal options.
Thank you!
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how does it ride?
I'm 185cm, so about 6ft1...
Winow advises a 58, but i'm afraid it will be too big
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The bad: harsher than my TCX which is by far the least comfortable bike I've ever ridden - that's meant to give you feedback when you're running 12psi on extremely variable surfaces.
The good: for training there's clearance for 32-33mm tires. You could run 40-50psi no problem.
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I received the frame. The steerer tube is cut way too short. The top pinch bolts on the supplied stem are above the tube. I’ve requested a new fork that isn’t cut so short. Stem is bad anyway but at least it shouldn’t be unsafe to use it. 19mm of exposed steer tube and the stem has a 29mm clamping area.
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how does it ride?
I'm 185cm, so about 6ft1...
Winow advises a 58, but i'm afraid it will be too big
I’ve only ridden it once outside with a steer tube extension plug while I wait for new fork. Been just using it on the trainer due to safety.
It felt great with 32mm tubeless tires at around 60psi. Aero position felt solid. I’m running 2x SRAM AXS with mech hydraulic breaks. They don’t feel as good as true hydraulics but no issues stopping down a fast descent.
I took BadIdeasMakeGoodStories advice and swapped the riser bolts. Does feel more secure than when I tried it with the supplied ones on the trainer.
I got a 54. Im 182.5 cm tall with an 82cm inseam. With short legs long torso I wanted a smaller frame. I’m running a 110mm stem currently. I could have made a 56 work but the geo compared to other companies and my road bike I’ve been using with clip on aero bars made 54 seem the better fit.
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Dear Chinertown friends. Here is the link about TT119, you can check it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007166498310.html?spm
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I’ve only ridden it once outside with a steer tube extension plug while I wait for new fork. Been just using it on the trainer due to safety.
It felt great with 32mm tubeless tires at around 60psi. Aero position felt solid. I’m running 2x SRAM AXS with mech hydraulic breaks. They don’t feel as good as true hydraulics but no issues stopping down a fast descent.
I took BadIdeasMakeGoodStories advice and swapped the riser bolts. Does feel more secure than when I tried it with the supplied ones on the trainer.
I got a 54. Im 182.5 cm tall with an 82cm inseam. With short legs long torso I wanted a smaller frame. I’m running a 110mm stem currently. I could have made a 56 work but the geo compared to other companies and my road bike I’ve been using with clip on aero bars made 54 seem the better fit.
Any issues with your stem slipping / rotating around the steerer? I've been putting off swapping it out for a PD Tri stem because I don't want to deal with recabling / bleeding the front end, but might see if Winow will replace mine if it's possible it's a one-off issue.
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Any issues with your stem slipping / rotating around the steerer? I've been putting off swapping it out for a PD Tri stem because I don't want to deal with recabling / bleeding the front end, but might see if Winow will replace mine if it's possible it's a one-off issue.
I ended up paying a "discount" for a new fork, painted, and shipped. Bit annoying but still cheaper than a new frame and trying to return this.
I have it setup with a $20 120mm road stem I got off Amazon. Torqued to 5mm. Absolutely no slipping since both bolts are on the steer tube. I've ridden outside for a few 1hr training rides and the bike has been excellent.
Does mean I have the cables running outside the stem, which is fine for now. Using mech cables means I need to avoid as many hard bends as I can.
I may move the saddle back 10mm and move to a 110mm stem to get the weight a little further back on the bike. The PD tri stem looks like a possible good upgrade if I can get a 105mm stem to work for me with the current extensions. I will probably need to replace the cups with ones that can adjust longer.
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I ended up paying a "discount" for a new fork, painted, and shipped. Bit annoying but still cheaper than a new frame and trying to return this.
I have it setup with a $20 120mm road stem I got off Amazon. Torqued to 5mm. Absolutely no slipping since both bolts are on the steer tube. I've ridden outside for a few 1hr training rides and the bike has been excellent.
Does mean I have the cables running outside the stem, which is fine for now. Using mech cables means I need to avoid as many hard bends as I can.
I may move the saddle back 10mm and move to a 110mm stem to get the weight a little further back on the bike. The PD tri stem looks like a possible good upgrade if I can get a 105mm stem to work for me with the current extensions. I will probably need to replace the cups with ones that can adjust longer.
ok, so winow made a mistake and you had to pay for it? this sounds strange...we are still looking for a solid source for our upcoming tt frame (we want to equip it with a full load of btas, rear bottleholders etc...and want to make it for a fair price...
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ok, so winow made a mistake and you had to pay for it? this sounds strange...we are still looking for a solid source for our upcoming tt frame (we want to equip it with a full load of btas, rear bottleholders etc...and want to make it for a fair price...
In my Aliexpress discussion with the representative, from what I gathered is that they don't believe there is anything wrong with the steer tube only being clamped by the bottom bolt of the supplied stem.
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ok....
maybe the saleslady which is active here can jump into the discussion...
i think it is a major nono to treat selfcaused problems like this..
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In my Aliexpress discussion with the representative, from what I gathered is that they don't believe there is anything wrong with the steer tube only being clamped by the bottom bolt of the supplied stem.
Are you saying the steerer is so short that half the stem isn't clamping on the steerer, and they're telling you that's fine?
That'd be ridiculous.
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You can see here. Only 19mm of exposed steerer tube on the original. The clamping area of the supplied stem is 29mm. They said it was normal for the tube to be slightly below the top of the stem.
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Ouch. It's hard to tell from the pictures w/o seeing it irl, in the sense that you do need a void to compress the column, and the expansion plug typically has a lip that sits above the steerer, but it does look too short. Intellectually, i agree that you would expect the second bolt to be tightening over an area with steerer, not just void. Not hard to imagine a horror scenario where the stem / bar just pops off the steerer because 2 bolts work, but 1 bolt doesnt.
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I recently ordered one of these frames. I've just had confirmation the paint job is done so it should be sent out shortly! I'll report back once I get it to see if I have any of the same issues as the others in this thread.
For the bike setup I've mostly gone with Shimano 105 mechanical with Onirii BR-05 brakes. Once it's built I'll throw out a list of parts and the total price.
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Replacing the stem that it shipped with with a PD Tri Stem that still allows for routing out the back into the top tube resolved the issue with slippage around the steerer.
What's shipped requires an absurd amount of torque to actually deform enough to properly clamp the steerer -- I recommend sourcing your own cockpit and riser+extension hardware from somewhere else.
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I received the frame last night. Have started the build and don't seem to be having any of the same issues at this stage (touch wood). The stem is long enough to be clamped and there doesn't seem to be slippage on the stem with ~6nm of torque. Time will tell once I start riding it though.
The issue I'm facing is that the cables are extremely tight coming out of the top tube (all Jagwire cables) which is causing the front end to be super stiff when turning. And the back of the stem is ridiculously sharp which has already start slicing into one of the cables. I may need to look at some different cables for the shifting to make a bit more room.
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FWIW, Terry at winow has been ignoring my emails for several weeks, he's just ghosting me. I've spent thousands of dollars with them. I've sent at least 5 chasers. He just ghosts me.
I wouldn't recommend working with winow.
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Is there an update from the people who ride the frame?
How does it ride? How fast, how comfortable?
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At current prices I would go with the Velobuild TT-023 paired with the new Winow Basebar+Extensions.
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At current prices I would go with the Velobuild TT-023 paired with the new Winow Basebar+Extensions.
The Velobuild ist 1200$ + shipping. The Winowframe is 628$ including shipping (BXT 119 its the Same frame).
Why you say at current prices?
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They are similar frames but not the same. The cockpit on the Velobuild is flat into the frame and the rear shapes are different. The geom is probably close to the same but I haven't compared side by side. So it could be down to looks and price for most. Also basic stuff like the BB is different and the rear hanger is integrated vs replaceable. Not voting one or the other just pointing out the obvious differences I can see.
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I'm also interested in the TT119 frame. Any updates from the proud owners? Especially on ride comfort?
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Frameset + cockpit was $620, painting was $80/colour. Full build excluding wheels came in just under $2100:
Component Item Price
Frameset Winow TT917 $620
Frameset Frame Painting $160
Saddle Specialized Sitero $86
Bars w. Frame -
Stem w. Frame -
Chainring AXS 48/31 Part Out $51
RD Rival AXS $110
FD Rival AXS $106
Batteries Takewell $23
Crankset Zele-A12X-OS 150 $47
Chain Force AXS $25
Bar Tape Fizik Tacky - Red $25
Levers RideRever Triva Hydro $281
Cable / Hose Damping Amazon Brand $9
Calipers w. Levers $0
Bottom Bracket ZTTO 24mm BSA $12
Pedals Look Keo2Max $80
Shifting eTap Blips $168
Shifting Leap Components Blip Mounts+Buttons $72
PM Quarq $270
Garmin Mount $72
Coupon Anniversary Sale -$120
Coupon TopCashback 40 -$40
Saving by going w. cheaper pedals, saddle, mech v. hydro levers, or 11 spd Di2 would probably get you down to $1.4k-ish all in. Even less if you don't care about shifting from the basebar and do full mechanical.
It's not a bad price for a full electronic TT bike. It's crazy how other manufacturers will probably charge this for 7-11k. I'd rather build it and enjoy riding what I built.
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I'm also interested in the TT119 frame. Any updates from the proud owners? Especially on ride comfort?
Here are the photo's of my TT119 bike. I've chosen the HB052 cockpit instead of the standard one that comes with the frame. I paid about €1000 for this frame including the cockpit and another €2000 for the shimano 9180 Di2 TT group, including assembly. The 25mm/50mm rims with 28mm tubeless tires are from my Trek bike.
I've done 2 rides and the comfort is amazing. Can stay in the aerobars continiously for long time. Speed improvement compared to my Trek Madone is about 10-15%.
(https://www.hardlopenzeeland.nl/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/IMG_2371-scaled-e1741082426416.jpg)
(https://www.hardlopenzeeland.nl/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/IMG_2372-scaled-e1741082469211.jpg)
(https://www.hardlopenzeeland.nl/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/IMG_2374-scaled-e1741082584474.jpg)
(https://www.hardlopenzeeland.nl/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/IMG_2373-scaled-e1741082528207.jpg)