Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: spcycle on July 27, 2024, 04:02:49 AM
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Dear All:
Have a nice day.
For M868 some inforamtion listed:
Model Name: SP-M868
Material: Full Carbon Fiber
Size: S M L XL
Headtube: 1-1/2" to 1-1/2"
Bottom Bracket: BSA 73mm, threaded
Rear Shock: 190x45mm, Standard install, Bushing specifications Front 8x50mm, Rear 8x22mm.
Cable : Full hides internal cable routing
Frame Travel: 120mm
Advise Fork Travel: 120mm
Brake Type: Post Mount Disc Brake, 180mm Rotor.
Rear Space : 12x148mm Boost, UDH Hanger
Seat Tube: 31.6mm
Max Tire: 29x2.4"
Test Standard：ISO 4210+ 20%
Crankset: Single chainring, Max 38T
Weight: 1720+/-60g. This is the weight of matt black frame
Package including: Frame + Clamp + headset + thru axle.
This frame will be listed at the end of August, Any interesting of this frame, feel free to contact us at any time.
info@lc2000.com.cn
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Do you have the leverage ratio and anti-squat charts for this frame?
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Is the rocker made of carbon or ALU?
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What is the difference to SP-M861?
Only the rear caliper mount? I hope there is still the cable port in the headtube?
If so, I would be interested.
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Is the rocker made of carbon or ALU?
The M868 is a carbon rocker arm.
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What is the difference to SP-M861?
Only the rear caliper mount? I hope there is still the cable port in the headtube?
If so, I would be interested.
The front triangle is the same as the M861. It uses a full integrated cable design.
The rear triangle and carbon rocker arm are redesigned. The strength will be increased by 30%.
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Can frame be made or drilled with ports for cables on headtube or downtube instead of headset?
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Can't find the bike on aliexpress or in your own shop. When will it be available? Will it replace the SP-M861?
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Can frame be made or drilled with ports for cables on headtube or downtube instead of headset?
In theory it is possible to drill holes in the head tube or down tube of the frame to achieve semi-integrated cables. I will confirm this with our engineers.
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Can't find the bike on aliexpress or in your own shop. When will it be available? Will it replace the SP-M861?
We expect to list it on AliExpress by the end of August. M861 will continue to be sold.
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Can you please send me price for frame?
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Can you please send me price for frame?
Retail price is 899USD. Including shipping cost. EU buyers do not need to pay customs tax.
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The front triangle is the same as the M861. It uses a full integrated cable design.
The rear triangle and carbon rocker arm are redesigned. The strength will be increased by 30%.
How is the rear triangle different?
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In theory it is possible to drill holes in the head tube or down tube of the frame to achieve semi-integrated cables. I will confirm this with our engineers.
That would be interesting to know, a frame with cables through the headset is a no go for me :)
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It vaguely resembles the OIZ. very nice.!
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I contacted SP Cycle and was told that it'll be released on september now. I guess they needed to do more testing.
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That would be interesting to know, a frame with cables through the headset is a no go for me :)
For me too, and I suppose for many. The cable routing itself is not a problem for me, but I race, so I want the cockpit as low as possible with a fork of 120mm travel. A completely internal routing is the opposite of that idea. Besides, I am a fan of mechanical gear changes and sharp cable turns will not work here :)
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For me too, and I suppose for many. The cable routing itself is not a problem for me, but I race, so I want the cockpit as low as possible with a fork of 120mm travel. A completely internal routing is the opposite of that idea. Besides, I am a fan of mechanical gear changes and sharp cable turns will not work here :)
Same here. Cables through the headset is a bad design trend that needs to go away. It has no real benefits, is annoying to service and can lead to problems.
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The M868 rear triangle has passed testing. Mass production will begin next week.
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better to test carefully this time, i would do it twice ;) ;)
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Was there a problem with spcycle previously?
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The right one is the new carbon rocker arm.
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Was there a problem with spcycle previously?
There are several posts of peeps reporting broken suspension arm as well as cracked frames if you google the keywords.
They are claiming to adress those issues with the M868 launch, but since there are also several posts in this forum about other SPcycle frame quality issues, i'm probably going to either skip buying it or wait until others confirming that quality issues have really been solved.
The second problem with them - according to few posts also in this forum, is not honoring their warranty. A couple of buyers left with a broken frame and no replacement in sight.
Either way, SPcycle not doing too good lately with all this bad publishity.
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better to test carefully this time, i would do it twice ;) ;)
Did SP-Cycle replace your broken frame? It's been a few months...
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In theory it is possible to drill holes in the head tube or down tube of the frame to achieve semi-integrated cables. I will confirm this with our engineers.
Didnt you guys already have two versions of the M861, one with fully internal cables (through headset) and the other one with "partially" internal routing, where the cables would not go through the headset, but traditionally through holes on the frame? Why wouldnt that apply to this frame, if all thats different is the rocker and rear triangle?
Also does this mean that current M861 frames sold come only with the aluminum rocker arm, but the same old, 'weaker' rear triangle, in order to avoid issues like what happened to federic000?
Thx.
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Did SP-Cycle replace your broken frame? It's been a few months...
Wasn't me, it's another federico I own a Carbonda 936 and so far really happy about it
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Just reached out to them. New availability for this frame is October now, “expected”.
Debating on going for the M861 with their upgraded rocker arm but old rear triangle, wait for the M868 (prolly not ready till end of year more than likely), or just go with the Carbonda CFM1001 and get it over with…
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M868 has started mass production. We have listed it on AliExpress and spcycle official website.
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Sembra molto bello.
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I am interested in this frame. Are you also providing to sell with shock?
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Buy it while it's light. The more frames will break, the heavier it will become in the future.
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Buy it while it's light. The more frames will break, the heavier it will become in the future.
LoL this is what happened to your and mine fm936, now it's given for 2150 grams in size M. Mine is 2030 grams, but I remember when it was marketed it was 1850 grams. Then some of them had cracks and now it's heavy like a fat duck ;D
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LoL this is what happened to your and mine fm936, now it's given for 2150 grams in size M. Mine is 2030 grams, but I remember when it was marketed it was 1850 grams. Then some of them had cracks and now it's heavy like a fat duck ;D
haha, yes!))
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I got a used fm936 M from the end of 2023 a week ago, weighs about 1950g
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Anyone with any real experience with this frame?
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Anyone with any real experience with this frame?
I have pulled the trigger on this frame. In Size XL. But it has not been delivered yet. Will do a build thread once the frame arrives
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Now its built. Missing some bits but atleast you get a rough idea on what I am planning :)
Will be changing the fork during winter but i wanted to just get it built up. Hopefully, maiden voyage can come this weekend
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Maiden voyage done today on wet slippery autumn trails. First impression is really good. Snappy feel and way faster over rocks and roots than the hardtail.
Suspension tuning needs some work thou. And looking forward to changing fork. Feels a bit weird to ride 120mm rear and 100mm front :)
My XL frame painted weighed 1950g without Axle but with mounting hardware. Easy buildup. Only crux is getting the Rear brake hose from swingarm to frame. But sorted pretty easily without removing swingarm.
The paintjob is okay at best. I (for some unclear reason) order a matte white which is pretty stupid. But an hour later and some polish compound and a polisher the finish is now gloss white. So cleaning was easy :)
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Almost order that frame and for some reason couldnt find good looking pictures of it, yours is the fist one I like!
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Now its built. Missing some bits but atleast you get a rough idea on what I am planning :)
Will be changing the fork during winter but i wanted to just get it built up. Hopefully, maiden voyage can come this weekend
Nice bike.
I have some wuestions regarding the geometry. What is your saddle height? And do you also know your reach as we can see it on the pictures?
Thanks
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Nice bike.
I have some wuestions regarding the geometry. What is your saddle height? And do you also know your reach as we can see it on the pictures?
Thanks
Thanks!
My saddle height is 79cm. And the reach with this (not correct travel of 100mm) fork is around 505mm. With the correct travel fork it is 496mm. Or are you reffering to the saddle-bar measurement?
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Yes, i was referring to your specific saddle-bar measurement as we can see it on your nice pictures. ;)
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Now its built. Missing some bits but atleast you get a rough idea on what I am planning :)
Will be changing the fork during winter but i wanted to just get it built up. Hopefully, maiden voyage can come this weekend
Hey, tell me what headset and handlebars you have on your bike. I bought the frame and should receive it in December, and I'm gathering the remaining parts.
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Hey, tell me what headset and handlebars you have on your bike. I bought the frame and should receive it in December, and I'm gathering the remaining parts.
I use a standard 52mm headset with the Syncros onepice bar/stem combo. Works really well for me:) I have about 400km on the bike now and i am very happy so far
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Just pulled the trigger on this one in glossy black, size L.
Planning to go rock shox flight attendant!
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Hi guys,
i also pulled the trigger and ordered one in matte black size L.
My question now: Is the fork cone included, or do i get it when i order a new fork or do i have to buy it separetely?
And when i have to buy it extra, where is a good place to buy it?
Thanks
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Are you talking about the piece that goes between the fork and the bearing, the crown race?
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yes 🙂
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That should come with your headset
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Hi guys, I also pulled the trigger on one of these, size medium, just after the new year. I will post the build and some progress. I’m pumped!
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I just received my white XL M868 from SP Cycle this morning after an annoying hold up with customs (UPS was the problem is seems.). Delivery was prompt from SP, you can't hold anyone accountable for customs into the USA who isn't in the government.
Everything appears in order, after removing the plastic spacer for the rear shock I weighed it at 1785 g. Paint looks smooth and well done. The frame was packaged well without any damage. The interior appears smooth and without any carbon lay up mess. The BSA BB looks clean, I will find out straightness when I put the crankset on. The headset is snug and seated well, the edges don't feel sharp enough to cut through the cable housing as was seen on Orbea bikes with similar cable routing.
The included headset has a UDH to standard derailer adaptor, and the proper bits for a normal fork (a previous post asked this.) The seat clamp I will probably replace with a more robust one, but it's probably fine.
I will share pictures when it is built up later today.
Attached are some pictures showing details I haven't seen on other posts for those considering.
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I just received my white XL M868 from SP Cycle this morning after an annoying hold up with customs (UPS was the problem is seems.). Delivery was prompt from SP, you can't hold anyone accountable for customs into the USA who isn't in the government.
Everything appears in order, after removing the plastic spacer for the rear shock I weighed it at 1785 g. Paint looks smooth and well done. The frame was packaged well without any damage. The interior appears smooth and without any carbon lay up mess. The BSA BB looks clean, I will find out straightness when I put the crankset on. The headset is snug and seated well, the edges don't feel sharpenough to cut through the cable housing as was seen on Orbea bikes with similar cable routing.
The included headset has a UDH to standard derailer adaptor, and the proper bits for a normal fork (a previous post asked this.). the seat clamp I will probably replace with a more robust one, but it's probably just fine.
I will share pictures when it is built up later today.
Attached are some pictures showing details I haven't seen on other posts for those considering.
What suspension are you planning on installing on your project? I also purchased this frame in the same color, size M.
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I am using Rock Shox Suspension on it, a SID Select+ fork, and a SID Luxe Ultimate rear shock. They are older models, but significantly cheaper and only slightly different from current models. Syncros Fraser integrated handlebar (if I'm internally routing cables I may as well go for all the things.)
Attached is a picture of the nearly final build, I have a new wheelset comng, I went with BTLOS for that. Still figuring out the power meter options, I have an Xcady spider on a different bike I could move over. I can drop about 800 g with a light wheelset, so the bike will land at less than 11 kg when done, lower if I ditch the dropper post.
I'll add a picture of the break down of parts and weights, formating a table is too painful.
Total weight currently 11618.7 (25.6 Lbs)
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Everything appears in order, after removing the plastic spacer for the rear shock I weighed it at 1785 g.
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Interesting to see that the same frame differs alomost 200g in weight :) My XL weighed 1950g or something close to that.
It recently got a small upgrade. New fork, a Fox Factory 34 in 120mm travel instead of the super weird setup with the SID Ultimate SL in 100mm i used at first :) Feels a bit more balanced now, haha.
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looking good these last few white builds!i am considering this frame with the epic evo clone. As this one looks more reliable.
Any long term reviews? I wonder how this frame will do in the tech stuff trail , not just XC
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sizing help with this frame:
I am 175 riding a M frame all my life, i am considering the L size an short stem for more controll on the DH, Plus i am missing a bit length when out of the saddle on my current trek fuel ex frame
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Interesting to see that the same frame differs alomost 200g in weight :) My XL weighed 1950g or something close to that.
It recently got a small upgrade. New fork, a Fox Factory 34 in 120mm travel instead of the super weird setup with the SID Ultimate SL in 100mm i used at first :) Feels a bit more balanced now, haha.
I removed everything I could to get a "just frame" weight, that might account for the difference.
Which handlebar is that? The spcycle one or something different?
For a power meter I switched to the pedal-based favero assioma Duo, modified with shimano XT SPDs.
For tires I am giving the Continental Dubnitals 2.4 a try, I ran race kings for a few years, and they are basically the same thing.
Also giving the ZTTO MS ultralite 10-51 cassette a try, it's been out a while and the chinese game of beta testing on customers may have worked out the problems (I hope!). It's about as light as the XTR and less than half the price. Shifting seems ok.
I also ordered the shimano M8250 XT Di2 upgrade, it was on spring sale from Aliexpress, and it will remove some cables from the internal routing. The internal routing is managable, but it is annoying at times. The headset design isn't great, but workable. I ordered a different headset design off Amazon ($38) which might address the issue. The problem is really the C-compression ring and how it restricts the cable placement. Ideally you would face the gap forward, but if you have a negative angle steam or integrated bar, the bend on the cables/brake lines is enough that things don't work anymore. The new headest has teh slots on the sides of the headset so that can be routed without this issue.
Updated picture attached for all your peeping desires.
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looking good these last few white builds!i am considering this frame with the epic evo clone. As this one looks more reliable.
Any long term reviews? I wonder how this frame will do in the tech stuff trail , not just XC
It's still winter here so I haven't had any hard rides yet, in fact I'm just sorting out the fit still. (Going to a 90mm steam instead of a 70 mm stem really made a bigger difference than I expected.). I have two other spcycle frame that I have ridden extensively, a hardtail MTB, and a road bike. No quality problems with either of them, which is why I went with them for this new build. For reference, I'm 6'3" (190 cm) tall and weigh in at 220 lbs (100 kg), I could lose a few pounds for sure but not hardly fat, so I put a lot of torque on the pedals, typical rides will see 800-1100 watt accelerations. If the frames were going to break under load they would have under me. (To be fair, I don't jump much, I'm an XC rider, not an enduro guy.)
For the fit issue you're looking at, look at the reach, it can be adjusted a bit by changing the stem, but it's not that simple. The larger frame also pushes the front wheel out further, which puts you further behaind the contact patch of the tire. The location of your mass relative to the front tire contact pad is one of the biggest factors in the handling of the bike, which is something we tall riders have to deal with constantly. If I get a smaller frame and put a longer stem on it, my weight in front is on top of the contact pad, making it more difficult to lift the front, and making handling twitchier. In many cases this is fine, but you lose stablity on downhill sections and it makes handling at speed more challenging. It's something to think about when picking a frame, it's not just comfort and ergonomics at play, there are real handling changes going on.
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Some images in Sunlight for those of you who want to know the gloss facter on the white paint.
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just pulled the trigger on a white frame 8)
can anyone send me the headset bearing spec/numbers? I want to swap them with some SKF premium bearings.
Ty
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I removed everything I could to get a "just frame" weight, that might account for the difference.
Which handlebar is that? The spcycle one or something different?
Ah, get it. I weighed mine with the Axle and hanger and shock hardware. Makes sense.
The handlebar is a Syncros bar/stem combo 70mm/ -10 degrees. I am pretty happy with that. The C- clip is also Syncros and made for that stem so I have "holes on both sides instead of only in the front. But I only have the brake hose going thru the frame. I don't have any cable for the lockout of the shock.
And I have ordered a wireless dropper so I won't have to pull everything apart again. Weight penalty yes, but I am ok with that. The Dropper weighs 688g with 150mm of travel.
According to my spreadsheet the bike is 11,52 kg with this setup which I think is ok for a XL bike. The fork is a bit heavy since it a regular 34 and not a Stepcast, but I bought it at a to good to pass price :)
I can save some weight by changing tires when these wear out. The ones on the bike are clincher tires weighing almost 900g each. So should drop the weight by atleast 200-300 with lightweight tires.
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looking good these last few white builds!i am considering this frame with the epic evo clone. As this one looks more reliable.
Any long term reviews? I wonder how this frame will do in the tech stuff trail , not just XC
I have only ridden about 400km during the fall before the snow and the cold came. But so far so good. I am really happy with how it performs on the rough stuff. I haven't dialed the rear shock settings fully yet. And it has not even been ridden in the correct geo, since I had a 100mm travelk fork from start.
I am coming from the DH and Enduro side so I ride the bike fairly hard on descents. There are no really big descents where I live at the moment but I think it feels pretty solid on the tech. The leverage ratio on a bike like this with pedal effecieny in mind (I hope) will of course be a bit more "bumpy" than a more trail oriented bike. I think I will get an even better feel for the bike once the dropper post is in place. Always weird to ride fast downhill with that high seatpost :)
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I have only ridden about 400km during the fall before the snow and the cold came. But so far so good. I am really happy with how it performs on the rough stuff. I haven't dialed the rear shock settings fully yet. And it has not even been ridden in the correct geo, since I had a 100mm travelk fork from start.
I am coming from the DH and Enduro side so I ride the bike fairly hard on descents. There are no really big descents where I live at the moment but I think it feels pretty solid on the tech. The leverage ratio on a bike like this with pedal effecieny in mind (I hope) will of course be a bit more "bumpy" than a more trail oriented bike. I think I will get an even better feel for the bike once the dropper post is in place. Always weird to ride fast downhill with that high seatpost :)
Thanks for the info man.
Im planning on building it with 130 mm 34 fork, if i feel it needs it i will drop to 120.
but so far it looks like a winner frame, especially in white! :P
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just pulled the trigger on a white frame 8)
can anyone send me the headset bearing spec/numbers? I want to swap them with some SKF premium bearings.
Ty
The bearings are standard 52mm top and bottom, sinc ethe fork will be 28.6, any headset you get with a compression ring will have the correct bits.
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Ah, get it. I weighed mine with the Axle and hanger and shock hardware. Makes sense.
The handlebar is a Syncros bar/stem combo 70mm/ -10 degrees. I am pretty happy with that. The C- clip is also Syncros and made for that stem so I have "holes on both sides instead of only in the front. But I only have the brake hose going thru the frame. I don't have any cable for the lockout of the shock.
And I have ordered a wireless dropper so I won't have to pull everything apart again. Weight penalty yes, but I am ok with that. The Dropper weighs 688g with 150mm of travel.
According to my spreadsheet the bike is 11,52 kg with this setup which I think is ok for a XL bike. The fork is a bit heavy since it a regular 34 and not a Stepcast, but I bought it at a to good to pass price :)
I can save some weight by changing tires when these wear out. The ones on the bike are clincher tires weighing almost 900g each. So should drop the weight by atleast 200-300 with lightweight tires.
I have the Syncros -17 70mm it's unfortunately took short, I find I need a 90mm stem, so I might buy it again. For now separate stem and bar until I get things sorted.
My build without dropper is 10.95 kg (24.11 lbs), the 4-piston brakes add some weight and I could put a raceday damper in the fork and save another 200g, but I kind of feel like for a 100kg rider it's getting to diminishing returns. I'm not totally sold on the dropper, it's 600g of weight without clear benefit to a flat-land dweller like me, and routing the cable is a huge pain plus one more thing on the handlebar.
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For those interested, the Acros is52 headset bearing fits this frame, and it matches the Syncros cable layout for their integrated bars. Current pricing is $62 + shipping from Acros. Acros is the OEM for the Syncros headset bearings.
https://acros-components.com/us/is52-is52-bearing-kit-integrated-cable-routing/us-56.52.920r1 (https://acros-components.com/us/is52-is52-bearing-kit-integrated-cable-routing/us-56.52.920r1)
The Neco is52 headset also fits, but has lower quality bearings. https://www.necoparts.com/en/product/H322TP-1.html (https://www.necoparts.com/en/product/H322TP-1.html) It's available for $22 on AliExpress and $35 on Amazon currently (USA numbers of course, stupid tariffs.). I have it in hand now, it weighs 104g (as the manufacturer claims.)
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For those interested, the Acros is52 headset bearing fits this frame, and it matches the Syncros cable layout for their integrated bars. Current pricing is $62 + shipping from Acros. Acros is the OEM for the Syncros headset bearings.
https://acros-components.com/us/is52-is52-bearing-kit-integrated-cable-routing/us-56.52.920r1 (https://acros-components.com/us/is52-is52-bearing-kit-integrated-cable-routing/us-56.52.920r1)
The Neco is52 headset also fits, but has lower quality bearings. https://www.necoparts.com/en/product/H322TP-1.html (https://www.necoparts.com/en/product/H322TP-1.html) It's available for $22 on AliExpress and $35 on Amazon currently (USA numbers of course, stupid tariffs.). I have it in hand now, it weighs 104g (as the manufacturer claims.)
thank you so much nallen!
Im thinking on a checklist for this to make sure all goes well.
In retrospec would you guys have ordered somthing as sapre? somthing i better clearfy before the frame is shipped?
Trying to make sure i help the sp people to not screw up :)
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thank you so much nallen!
Im thinking on a checklist for this to make sure all goes well.
In retrospec would you guys have ordered somthing as sapre? somthing i better clearfy before the frame is shipped?
Trying to make sure i help the sp people to not screw up :)
I just installed the Neco headset, and it's so much better. Spcycle should use these as stock. I will probably replace it with the Acros when it comes it as it looks like an even better design, and more robust bearings, but honestly, it's just a bike geek upgrade, this neco bearing does all the things at 1/3 the price.
One thing that I had to order that I didn't plan out: the rear shock bushings! Bikes are so different that there isn't really a standard size, for the 686: Front 8x50mm, Rear 8x22mm. And of course a bushing press if you dont have one. Neither item is terribly expensive, but nearly impossible to work around.
You will need a cable fish line to get the rear brake line and shifting cable through, which you should expect with interally routed anything.
Consider upgrading the bolts/hardware, they are fine, but a bit prone to rust. I haven't done so yet, but thinking of it. I need to find a source for the parts. I might just paint the exposed metal as a solution.
I didn't have any issues with the brake surfacing on the mounts, everything went together smoothly there.
Consider the grease you are using to put things together, instead of bike grease I am using Mobil XHP 222 for the bearings and seals, it's a lot more robust than most geases, and a lot cheaper. For suspension bits, and anything moving a faster speeds I'm using a calcium sulfonate grease, it is less prone to attack surfaces like some lithium greases can. I ran across this great youtube video by Mapdec which actually explains quite a lot: https://youtu.be/WqiTtlVo-xA?si=CxEbj9GcMscli1fj (https://youtu.be/WqiTtlVo-xA?si=CxEbj9GcMscli1fj). Totally worth a watch before assembling a new build.
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I just installed the Neco headset, and it's so much better. Spcycle should use these as stock. I will probably replace it with the Acros when it comes it as it looks like an even better design, and more robust bearings, but honestly, it's just a bike geek upgrade, this neco bearing does all the things at 1/3 the price.
One thing that I had to order that I didn't plan out: the rear shock bushings! Bikes are so different that there isn't really a standard size, for the 686: Front 8x50mm, Rear 8x22mm. And of course a bushing press if you dont have one. Neither item is terribly expensive, but nearly impossible to work around.
You will need a cable fish line to get the rear brake line and shifting cable through, which you should expect with interally routed anything.
Consider upgrading the bolts/hardware, they are fine, but a bit prone to rust. I haven't done so yet, but thinking of it. I need to find a source for the parts. I might just paint the exposed metal as a solution.
I didn't have any issues with the brake surfacing on the mounts, everything went together smoothly there.
Consider the grease you are using to put things together, instead of bike grease I am using Mobil XHP 222 for the bearings and seals, it's a lot more robust than most geases, and a lot cheaper. For suspension bits, and anything moving a faster speeds I'm using a calcium sulfonate grease, it is less prone to attack surfaces like some lithium greases can. I ran across this great youtube video by Mapdec which actually explains quite a lot: https://youtu.be/WqiTtlVo-xA?si=CxEbj9GcMscli1fj (https://youtu.be/WqiTtlVo-xA?si=CxEbj9GcMscli1fj). Totally worth a watch before assembling a new build.
the shock bushings! THANKS!! didnt think of that :)
can you please share the aliexpress link for the headset and bushings? does the frame come with shock bolts? if not what should i buy?
ill order both :D
just got the downtube and chainstay protectors from ali as well. top quality stuff
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the shock bushings! THANKS!! didnt think of that :)
can you please share the aliexpress link for the headset and bushings? does the frame come with shock bolts? if not what should i buy?
ill order both :D
just got the downtube and chainstay protectors from ali as well. top quality stuff
The frame comes with the bolts, no worries there.
I ordered the bushings off Amazon because I could get them overnight (as you can imagine that was pretty important at that point!)
Bushings are easy to find: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805690164722.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805690164722.html)
If those don't work for whatever reason there are lots of options.
Also, since this is a common issue with carbon fiber, if things are slipping, like the seat post or handbars, really anything, a great solution in place of carbon fiber grip grease, is just a piece of thin PVC rubber, I use small bits from a old pool float. Works great, I heard about it from TraceVelo on Youtube. Solved the seat tube issue on my road bike when nothing else really worked.
I figured out why the SP cycle headset is the way it is, the integrated handle bar they sell has internal cable routing, in which case you'd want to run the cables through the front of the headset. This makes sense, and every company does this sort of thing.
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Hello.
Have you replaced the suspension bearings on your bikes, or are you still using the original ones?
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Hello.
Have you replaced the suspension bearings on your bikes, or are you still using the original ones?
Not yet changed, but yesterday I replaced the rear brake hose (nothing to do with the frame) so i pulled the lower linkage apart. And realized that the bearings is totally stuck. So no movement at all. So these needs to be replaced. Will change all others bearings when i am on it.
do anyoine now the specs of the beraings?
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Sorry, I'm a bit of a noob. What do you think of these front forks https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005121945934.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4Kr51wb)? Are they good for this frame?
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Not yet changed, but yesterday I replaced the rear brake hose (nothing to do with the frame) so i pulled the lower linkage apart. And realized that the bearings is totally stuck. So no movement at all. So these needs to be replaced. Will change all others bearings when i am on it.
do anyoine now the specs of the beraings?
I got my answer iin under an hour from SPcycle :)
24*15*5mm 2pcs
21*12*5mm 6pcs
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Sorry, I'm a bit of a noob. What do you think of these front forks https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005121945934.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4Kr51wb)? Are they good for this frame?
Sorry, don't have any info or thoughts on that specific fork.
But I think I would rather go for an used one from a known brand if I was on a budget.
And make sure you buy a fork with the proper axle for the wheels you are going to use.
The link refers to a fork with the older quick release axle. Not thru axle that are more common nowadays. If you buy a wheelset with the boost rear axle you usually get a thru axle for the front as well. And the fork you link to will not fit that type of wheels/hubs.
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Sorry, I'm a bit of a noob. What do you think of these front forks https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005121945934.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4Kr51wb)? Are they good for this frame?
The fork says a lot fo teh right things, however, there is one detail that makes it a pass: It is a quick-release fork, 9x100mm, so it will not fit the modern boost hub size and you would be stuck trying to source a a quick release front wheel, and a thru axle rear wheel. Kind of a deal killer.
I looked at a lot of the aliexpress forks, the low prices look nice, but nearly all of them have this issue.
I ended up buying the previous model Rockshox SID Select+ 120mm for $350 (Wheel and Sprocket Outlet) , and then upgrading the damper to the Race Day 2 ($150 ebay) giving me a 1520g fork for $500. The weight ranges for a SID Ultimate is 1485g-1530g, and current check runs a litle over $1000.
If youre looking for a lower trim level, look for close outs or on ebay. If you're in the USA, just order the $350 Rockshox SID Select+ while they still have it available, you don't need to upgrade the damper, I just wanted the remote lock out.
Let me look through the Aliexpress for some options, I saw a Rockshox fork listed the other day.
Edit: They do have some Rockshox available on Aliexpress, but they are all $375+ for a Judy or Reba.
If you want to give Baloney a try this is the correct fork to roll the dice on: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810128429442.html? (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810128429442.html?)
"BOLANY BOOST Bike Air Fork 26/27.5/29 Inch MTB Air Fork 15x110mm 34mm Tube 15x100mm Thru Axle Suspension Fork 120/140mm Travel"
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If you want to give Baloney a try this is the correct fork to roll the dice on: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810128429442.html? (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c32P5fVZ)
"BOLANY BOOST Bike Air Fork 26/27.5/29 Inch MTB Air Fork 15x110mm 34mm Tube 15x100mm Thru Axle Suspension Fork 120/140mm Travel"
I will take a look
Thanks!
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Im an hearing from oiz owners the suspension is regressive - very stiff much oriented to XC.
How the suspension on this model feels on trails? tech and chunk?
I am aiming this as a DC / light trail bike
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I have m861, can´t say its very stiff, they changed only rear triangle of m868, so likely the same. Depends what shock you are going to use. I had sidluxe originally M/M tune, had to add larger token and make compression stiffer. It was bottoming out really easy on bumpy road, xc riding(im max 76kg)
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I have m861, can´t say its very stiff, they changed only rear triangle of m868, so likely the same. Depends what shock you are going to use. I had sidluxe originally M/M tune, had to add larger token and make compression stiffer. It was bottoming out really easy on bumpy road, xc riding(im max 76kg)
That is actually good news for me :) sounds pretty progressive. thanks for the helpful comment.
at what sag this happeded?
the shock i have for it is sidluxe ultimate. regular M/M factory tuning. i am 80 kg riding mostly trail + Xc. so a shock token or tune. maybe even going with a float x will be considered.
i have every bits and pieces ready, just the frame is missing, hopefully soon :)
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I found a youtube video uploaded recently with a a sweeeeet xtr kashima build- discussed by the technician who build it, you can have that video translated via youtube.
the technician is really exaggerating with the verdict on the bearings and the costs of the bearing replacement - its a single pivot, from what i read all over from users, the bearings are fine - just need extra greasing to be on the safe side.
i didnt really understand the shock hardware issue as well- it is standard and no one reported this issue.
overall a positive video - great looking build
just copy paste the link :) [liink]www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNLG3LAFo5M&t=328s[link]
(https://avatars.mds.yandex.net/get-vthumb/3413106/5174ff1696cad0aafe6f10fbe8a4d6f2/564x318_1)
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I found a youtube video uploaded recently with a a sweeeeet xtr kashima build- discussed by the technician who build it, you can have that video translated via youtube.
the technician is really exaggerating with the verdict on the bearings and the costs of the bearing replacement - its a single pivot, from what i read all over from users, the bearings are fine - just need extra greasing to be on the safe side.
i didnt really understand the shock hardware issue as well- it is standard and no one reported this issue.
overall a positive video - great looking build
just copy paste the link :)
I am immediately skeptical of these guys because they say some odd things, like needing a lathe to “fix” the spacers on the rear shock so they fit. You just buy the right spacers for like $10, there is not an industry standard of shock spacers. This isn’t a flaw, and you don’t need a lathe to address it.
The comments on the bearings are non-specific, why did there replace the bearings? What was the actual issue? Was this a user error issue or a defect or a poor quality spec? I did look at bearing replacements, they are a standard size and cost like $10 for the main bearings, I can get a set of 4 of the smaller bearings for $20. If you are building bike up from components I would hope replacing a bearings is not a worry.
Several of the Russian commenters point these things out as well. Bike stores have a bias, their incentive is to find problems, the only safe choice is to buy from their store. If this is the worst they can come up with then they found nothing.
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I am immediately skeptical of these guys because they say some odd things, like needing a lathe to “fix” the spacers on the rear shock so they fit. You just buy the right spacers for like $10, there is not an industry standard of shock spacers. This isn’t a flaw, and you don’t need a lathe to address it.
The comments on the bearings are non-specific, why did there replace the bearings? What was the actual issue? Was this a user error issue or a defect or a poor quality spec? I did look at bearing replacements, they are a standard size and cost like $10 for the main bearings, I can get a set of 4 of the smaller bearings for $20. If you are building bike up from components I would hope replacing a bearings is not a worry.
Several of the Russian commenters point these things out as well. Bike stores have a bias, their incentive is to find problems, the only safe choice is to buy from their store. If this is the worst they can come up with then they found nothing.
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Exactly bud!!!!!
My frame has landed, hopefully this week i will hit the singletracks ;D
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Update from my build:
I had a small creak from the suspension, nothing big but annoying. After ruling things out successively, I determined it was the suspension pivots, so off I went to check them out. Two discoveries.
First, the pivots aren't greased at all from the factory, that's going to give you some noise. Pulling everything apart, greasing the pivots, and reassembling (have your medium thread lock handy!) made the sound go away. Problem solved.
Second, this gave me a chance to check the bearings, the main pivot is far too rough for a bike which hasn't even seen a full season of riding. I have ordered replacements, as expected they aren't expensive, I even got the nicer stainless steel ones and only ended up spending $32. These bearings don't really move that much, so I haven't noticed during riding, but now I know and I want things to be right.
Also a comment for others doing this: On the main pivot, there are several spacer/washers. 2 thin (<1mm) 3 thick (~2mm), and a cone shaped washer that fits the bolt head, which is also cone-shaped. The thin ones go next to the main bearings, as they are thin enough to slip into the gap (more important on the drive-side. I used a bit of grease to hold it in place and then slide it into position. The order of the others starting from the bolt head: The large cone washer, 3 thick spacers, finally the other thin spacer. Torque it down to 20 n-m (my bike torque wrench only goes to 15, so I did that and then a bit more.)
I mention this because getting it out took some effort and when it finally popped free things went flying, and it helps to know what you're looking for. I only found 2 of the thick spacers, thinking that was all of them, only to find the pivot bolt was no longer flush with the frame. It took my far too long of searching the room to find the missing spacer! Don't be me. I tried to find a place to order these spacers, and they are not commonly available, so consider them precious.
Edit: I figured out what the spacers are, they are pedal washers, so you can order then if you lose them.
Otherwise, the bike is riding really well, I am getting the suspension dialed in, I am also bottoming out the rear suspension more than I think I should, so I added a larger spacer and I am bringing the pressure up. I'm 100 kg so yeah, probably going to need a bit more stiffness regardless.
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Thanks for the valuable update bud.
I am not sure if go on full bearing replacement , or just open seals apply premium grease and see how long they will last.
I will remove the main pivot to regrease with caution ,thanks again for the heads up
I should get my frame any day now, will update
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Hello.
My project is complete. The first rides confirm that it's a very good frame with great geometry. Final weight: 10.7 kg
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Hi everyone
I think it's time to write a few words about my M861. I built the bike about 1.5 years ago. It's ridden over 4000km, mostly in mountainous terrain. After about two months, I had to replace all the bearings. Actually, it was only after installing the Endura ones that they were okay, let's say. I previously installed them from a local shop, and they lasted a month. I bought new ones on AliExpress, and the same thing happened.
The handlebar bearings are in the same situation. Only a brand-name set solved the noise problem, although not completely.
In the fall, the rear swingarm cracked, and I received a new one free of charge.
In the winter, more noises appeared from the crank area. Thinking it was the bearings because they were already a bit worn, I waited until spring to replace the entire crank with a xx crank with a Dub system.
Meanwhile, play appeared in the upper swingarm mount.
After a few measurements, it turned out that there was about 0.02mm difference between the bushing and the bolt. The bolts were probably wearing out. A friend of mine made new, tighter bearing bushings, and so far, everything's fine. After installing the new crankset and bearings, it turned out the noise was still there. I started lubricating everything I could, including the frame bearings, but nothing helped.
I even bought new bearings for the BSA cartridge, which turned out to be unnecessary.
I pinpointed the source of the noise with a stethoscope. After removing the BSA bearings and carefully inspecting them, a crack appeared in the BSA cartridge. The seller ignored the issue.
http://youtube.com/shorts/_7fq1cAbbs0?si=nfqNHjmwzOSGxziB
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I guess with this type of issue you gotta replace the frame right? No way you can replace just the BB shell.
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I guess with this type of issue you gotta replace the frame right? No way you can replace just the BB shell.
exactly, but the seller doesn't want to say it directly. He claims that the new frames don't have this connector between the threads.
Exactly, but the seller won't say it directly. He claims that the new frames don't have this threaded connector.
Below are some better photos of the project.
Weight: 10.95
Carbon wheels: 30mm, Goldix hubs, Aspen 2.4 120tpi tires, Tubolight rear wheel insert
SID Ultimate 2x shock
XTR brakes, XT 180mm brake discs
XX1 crankset, XX1 cassette
Tune saddle
Reverb 150mm seatpost
XTR pedals
XT shifter, XTR rear derailleur
DTSwiss lockout
RPantahi cockpit, tire repair kit in the handlebar
All titanium bolts
Xcadey power meter
Frame wrapped in plastic
ESI grips, plastic cages
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Question to all who have bought this frame and built their bikes: Do you use the included headset or use an after market solution? The one comes with the frame has little holes for cables and it makes the cables bent too much.
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Question to all who have bought this frame and built their bikes: Do you use the included headset or use an after market solution? The one comes with the frame has little holes for cables and it makes the cables bent too much.
The ones that came with the set are useless. The worst problem was that the cables would twist in one direction after a few kilometers of riding. Furthermore, they were so tight that the housings quickly began to wear out. I bought this set and the problem disappeared.
https://sklep.token-polska.pl/m-lite-tk3256-is52-286-is52-40-p-1005.html
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Thanks for the recommendation. I ended up reusing the set from my Tantan FM121 frame.
Just finished my build last weekend. Reused all components from my 1 yo Tantan FM121.
- GoZone carbon wheelset 1200g
- Kocevlo carbon integrated handlebar 232g
- Rockshox SID front and rear
- RIRO carbon crankset
- Sigeyi power meter
- 32T chainring
- ZTTO SLR3 9-51 cassette 297g
- SRAM Eagle AXS rear derailleur and shifter
- OneUp dropper post
Total weight: 23lbs. This is my primary XC racing bike.