Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: bremerradkurier on August 11, 2024, 11:05:56 AM
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Won the giveaway last month-frame finished painting and is planned to ship this week. Went for 80s vintage Celeste paint as I wanted one as a teenager but Bianchi was way above my budget.
https://imgur.com/a/zGW3oV4 (https://imgur.com/a/zGW3oV4)
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Looking forward to this build!
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Yew! How exciting! Very nice colour choice
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Which BB you took? Can you send me a link
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Which BB you took? Can you send me a link
Frame has arrived and I measured the BB shell at about 85mm in width, so I'll need a T47 inboard BB. Was going to get a Kactus ceramic BB from Ali, but for 10 USD more the Praxis BB is probably a much better option as it includes dust caps.
https://praxiscycles.com/product/t47-i-b-shimano/ (https://praxiscycles.com/product/t47-i-b-shimano/)
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Thoughts on wheels from Carbon Speed? I didn't find many results using the search feature. I think @Serge_K has bought from them.
My interest is in those 65mm deep 34ext 26int wheels. Probably overkill for the road, but I do own a set of wheels from No6 and find them to be wildly comfortable with 30c tires. Stretches them to 32/33mm. No tangible loss in speed. But of course this hasn't been scientifically tested.
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1649 (https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1649)
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Thoughts on wheels from Carbon Speed? I didn't find many results using the search feature. I think @Serge_K has bought from them.
My interest is in those 65mm deep 34ext 26int wheels. Probably overkill for the road, but I do own a set of wheels from No6 and find them to be wildly comfortable with 30c tires. Stretches them to 32/33mm. No tangible loss in speed. But of course this hasn't been scientifically tested.
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1649 (https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1649)
Interesting find - I've been looking for some >25mm internal width wheels for a gravel build, now that I'm used to 24mm IW and 30mm tyres on the road. Not many options out there from the budget Chinese brands so interesting to see wider rims making it into the market.
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I'm currently looking at an Elite Carbon wheelset in 45×24 IW or 38x25 IW for this build. For tires I'm thinking I could get some hilarious lean angles on the road and a super plush ride compared to my current 28c tires on 19 IW rims with either 38c Schwalbe Pro Ones or 35c Conti 5000 AS tires.
Should also have enough volume to handle the light unpaved sections I'd be trying.
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They are solid choices.
However to me it's a bit strange that you won the giveaway from Peter and then buy the wheels somewhere else.
But maybe its just me finding this awkward. :)
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Arrived. 8)
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That’s a pretty!
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Progress! Ended up using Xmcarbonspeed wheels because Elite would have been way too slow.
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So with the inner rim width at 26mm, my Schwalbe 38c tires are a hilarious 38.9mm wide and about 36mm tall-can't wait to see how far I'll be able to lean it over in turns.
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Ah, i was wondering what kind of big ass tyres you were running. 38C slick? Nice! Never seen that before. The new Long Teng 301 can clear 38C as well, so it means these could fit.
Please let us know after you've ridden them how that feels.
I love my 30-32C combo on wide rims (from Xmcarbonspeed in fact), but given how wide they get, i'm thinking of going 28&30 tubeless next time (in GP5000 still), because that would still be super wide. To respect more the 105 rule.
38 slicks is next level after the next level, idk what to expect!
My first choice was actually going to be Conti GP5000 AS in 35c but they were out of stock at Merlin-Bicycle Rolling Resistance website had some comments on the Schwalbes that they were undersized for a 38c.
So my handle refers to being a bike messenger in Northern Germany in the 90s and we were huge into maintaining momentum (and speed) over poorly paved roads and cobblestones. Best tire choices were usually tubed wide slicks/semi-slicks on 26" wheels but as was the practice at the time, on typically 17-19 at most IW rims at the max pressure on the tire sidewalls to prevent pinch flats. I once managed a deep two wheel drift without crashing on a pair of 26x1.75 Michelin Wildgripper Rock tires where I was completely puzzled as to why I didn't crash hard-this is the kind of moment I'm looking to relive with far better equipment. ;D
ETA: Was also considering the Challenge Strada Bianca in 45c, but there were a lot of comments about them unpredictably loosing grip in dry sand/gravel over pavement conditions.
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Wasn't this supposed to be a gravel bike? :D
38C slicks - I didn't even know they come that wide!
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I took the bait and merge two brands :)
Astana Qazaqstan for the win
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Niiiiiiiiice! is the paintjob good? looks great on pics. I dont think many OEMs are able to do such a paintjob on all the components.
Definitely brings an extra 10 points of bling.
I don’t have the expertise to judge if it is really good or excellent. Do you have a few points I could check to provide you a score?
To my naked and easy eyes, the paint is awesome. The only downside [which was expressed by Peter] is that is might be hard to insert the seatpost, so I might remove a bit of paint for a full insertion.
I am honestly really happy about the paint job, it was the main selling point to my wife as well [I bought 2 frames
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I took the bait and merge two brands :)
Astana Qazaqstan for the win
Was that painted directly by xmcarbonspeed? Seatpost, handlebar and all?
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Built up and ready to ride at 8.77kg. Sunny day in the mid 70s F, high 20s C-time to rock and roll and play the song of the angry AF bees in the freehub.
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I don’t have the expertise to judge if it is really good or excellent. Do you have a few points I could check to provide you a score?
To my naked and easy eyes, the paint is awesome. The only downside [which was expressed by Peter] is that is might be hard to insert the seatpost, so I might remove a bit of paint for a full insertion.
I am honestly really happy about the paint job, it was the main selling point to my wife as well [I bought 2 frames
I had the same problem with seatpost insertion on my frame. Put the wedge in a vise and used sandpaper around the front edge of the seat post to remove material from the inside of the wedge.
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The Thicc Slicks were so fun. Roll great at 50 PSI front, 55 rear and smooth out everything from cracked asphalt up to expansion joints and make a quality woosh tone that makes you want to give them more watts.
Leaned over a bit and they plant like rock climbing shoes. Grabbed a good fistful of brake doing break in cycles and not even close to skidding.
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Wasn't this supposed to be a gravel bike? :D
38C slicks - I didn't even know they come that wide!
Pirelli make a 40C road slick
https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-ww/bike/tyres/catalogue/p-zero-race-tlr/40-622
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Was that painted directly by xmcarbonspeed? Seatpost, handlebar and all?
Yes!
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8.7kg with pedals and a mid tier groupset looks like a super competitive weight/cost ratio.
New Ridley halo gravel bike at a 9000ish Euro price point with 1 x Red is only in the low 8kg range with pedals-with the same tires I'd probably still be under 9kg.
https://bikerumor.com/ridley-astr-rs-gravel-bike-balances-race-ready-speed-all-rounder-versatility-review/
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So with the inner rim width at 26mm, my Schwalbe 38c tires are a hilarious 38.9mm wide and about 36mm tall-can't wait to see how far I'll be able to lean it over in turns.
Have you been able to test ride the bike and wheels yet?
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Have you been able to test ride the bike and wheels yet?
Rides great and appears to offer real aero advantages compared to my non-aero optimized road bike (my OG Evkin CF025, Di2, integrated handlebar with 31mm deep rims, Conti GP 5000s in 28c).
Same 3km no stop Strava segment rode a day apart was two seconds fast on the road bike but took 14w more average power to do so, both based off of Stages ND power meter data
I do have one small, maddening issue to resolve with a howling front wheel/disc rotor.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5302.0.html (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5302.0.html)
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How would you rate it against your OG Evkin?
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How would you rate it against your OG Evkin?
Worksmanship is much better and T47 is a big plus over BB86, but to be fair my OG Evkin is six years old now so of course not as clean on the inside.
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I just finished to build he frame, and here is my observations:
1. Paint choice consequences (part my responsibility). This is the most frustrating part of the build: I had to sand the paint the seat post a lot to make it enter into the frame. Moreover, it was also really hard to put the shifters on the handlebar, I had to destroy the paint at the curve of the handlebar. Solution: only paint the upper side of the seatpost, and only paint the stem and the part of the handlebar from the stem until the shifters clamp area.
2. Handlebar design. I find two issues: it was impossible to pass the cable inside the stem, and there is not enough space underneath the stem for the 4 cables to pass without being squeezed. I could not pass the shifting wire while the handlebar was installed. Hopefully, I manage to make it work. It took me a lot of experimentation to find the solution haha.
3. I am not a fan on the design of the derailleur hanger with the double screw system.
Basically, I spent a lot of time (a few days more than my usual builds) because of the paint, but it looks gorgeous otherwise :)
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Hi guys,
I just finished a build with this frame and am left with quite a gap below the bottom spacer and frame. Peter said someone here may know what's up. Does anyone know what I may have done wrong or if there is a fix for this?
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Got photos from Peter today, looking forward to the build.
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Hi guys,
I just finished a build with this frame and am left with quite a gap below the bottom spacer and frame. Peter said someone here may know what's up. Does anyone know what I may have done wrong or if there is a fix for this?
Looks great-what width are the Pirellis?
Since you're using Shimano, you can get a bit crisper shifting and save a little weight with a direct mount UDH hanger-I got this one with the 1.0mm thread pitch and the fit was perfect.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807539398396.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.49.24f01802AeFswW&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807539398396.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.49.24f01802AeFswW&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa)
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Hi guys,
I just finished a build with this frame and am left with quite a gap below the bottom spacer and frame. Peter said someone here may know what's up. Does anyone know what I may have done wrong or if there is a fix for this?
I have exactly the same problem, a very large gap.
Have you found a solution?
The bearing is fairly flush with the bearing seat.
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Looks great-what width are the Pirellis?
Since you're using Shimano, you can get a bit crisper shifting and save a little weight with a direct mount UDH hanger-I got this one with the 1.0mm thread pitch and the fit was perfect.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807539398396.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.49.24f01802AeFswW&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807539398396.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.49.24f01802AeFswW&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa)
They are 35mm. Thanks for the udh tip!
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I have exactly the same problem, a very large gap.
Have you found a solution?
The bearing is fairly flush with the bearing seat.
Unfortunately no solution yet. Bearing is flush on mine too... :(
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Acros Rosé X-Lite compatible headset insert does the trick. Head set cap needs to be modified to sit flush with the insert. I had to cut 2 pins and grind a a little bit with grind paper.
I had bad luck with the BB overspray tho, too much paint causing pre tension on the BB bearings. Currently sitting in the shop to get faced.
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That looks like it’s straight up rubbing on the frame in your two pictures. Have you placed the plastic centering piece on the top bearing? Because I did and there was this nasty gap because it’s a few millimetres too thick.
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Unrelated question, anyone used this frame for bike packing ?
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I do like straight up rubbing to certain pictures.
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Pulled the trigger, looking forward to compare it to my Yishun Endurance bike.
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Just a follow-up now after a bit more than 1000km. I'm quite impressed with this frame. it seems to be built like a tank, but the comfort is great (of course aided by 35mm wide tires). It seems fairly quick on tarmac as well. Nothing creaks or rattles, so far so good! The gap between frame and headset cap I'll sort when the bearings need replacing.
And a huge shoutout to Peter who has been an absolute pleasure to deal with, answering my many many questions. There was an issue with the first frame I received, but Peter had a new frame painted and sent to me ASAP, no questions asked and no charge. I can highly recommend buying from Peter. The CS-GR01 frame has also been great so far.
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Just unpacking my recently received CS-GR01, wondering what if anything I should make of the faintly visible ridging/wrinkling inside the head tube in attached pic.
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I was wondering if people ordered a set of headset bearing and compression plugs with the bike or if they have any recommendations since mine did not come with any
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To me it was mentioned that the bike comes without bearings.
I'm ordering a basic 52x52 set.
@srf0638 I just received pictures from Peter, from the painted frame. It looks similar. He says it's normal, but I'll try to get a confirmation. For me it should be smooth to fit the bearing.
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I am satisfied with my frame; I have been riding it for a while now. However, I am bothered by the setback of the seat post; I have to push my saddle completely forward.
I asked Peter if there was a 0 setback seat post, but unfortunately there isn't.
Peter could make one if enough people here in the forum were interested.
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I would be interested in a 0 offset seatpost
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Me too, more flexibility is always good.
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I just finished to build he frame, and here is my observations:
1. Paint choice consequences (part my responsibility). This is the most frustrating part of the build: I had to sand the paint the seat post a lot to make it enter into the frame. Moreover, it was also really hard to put the shifters on the handlebar, I had to destroy the paint at the curve of the handlebar. Solution: only paint the upper side of the seatpost, and only paint the stem and the part of the handlebar from the stem until the shifters clamp area.
2. Handlebar design. I find two issues: it was impossible to pass the cable inside the stem, and there is not enough space underneath the stem for the 4 cables to pass without being squeezed. I could not pass the shifting wire while the handlebar was installed. Hopefully, I manage to make it work. It took me a lot of experimentation to find the solution haha.
3. I am not a fan on the design of the derailleur hanger with the double screw system.
Basically, I spent a lot of time (a few days more than my usual builds) because of the paint, but it looks gorgeous otherwise :)
This is one of the most gorgeous paint jobs I've seen on there. Could you share the price breakdown? Thank you
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Waiting for 2 screws for the hydraulic hose
Internal routing was flawless, even without prepared lines to pull through
Headset isn't so clean, but not painted, on the bottom I could feel, how it wasn't round at all, but with bearing pressed in, it feels good
Bottom bracket threads were quite dirty, but installation was flawless, after cleaning
Brake mountings were taped off during painting, so installation was easy
Paint job looks good
Yishun frame felt better, but compared to what you see at hambini, it's a good manufactured frame, but not perfect either
I really want a 0 offset seatpost...
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My build is at roughly 8.5kg with a 105 Di2 groupset, Carbonspeed wheels at 50x26IW, pedals, cages, and a Garmin mount-the real deal even at the halo build level seem kind of porky in comparison as they never include pedal weight.
https://bikerumor.com/pinarello-launches-dogma-gr-and-revamped-grevil-f-series/ (https://bikerumor.com/pinarello-launches-dogma-gr-and-revamped-grevil-f-series/)
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Got photos from Peter today, looking forward to the build.
Are the colors you chose Pantone colors? Do you know the code #?
Looks great!!
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Are the colors you chose Pantone colors? Do you know the code #?
Looks great!!
Yes, the colors I chose are Pantone colors.
Specifically:
Pantone 877 C – Silver Metallic
Pantone 10249 C – Blue Metallic
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Thanks man
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I finally had to time to build up the GR01 frame. It was not without its headaches such as being sent the wrong headset bearings from a retailer here in Canada.
The issues that I had with the frame was:
1. The rear chainstay from the brake line probably wasn't super clean, I didn't have an endoscope to look but I ended up "flossing" it with routing cables and the brake hose went through well afterwards.
2. The headset has a huge gap. I used the FSA headset Peter recommended in terms of bearings but the compression ring is really thick and sticks out significantly as seen in the picture. I welcome any recommendations for solving this issue as I see other frames are fine. This is the headset I used:
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-n55r-1-1-8-36-45--integrated-headset/138502170/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=14737909&country=ca&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22604584944&gbraid=0AAAAADvzHL-KtqYr2gl0JArwzm6aIBqiM&gclid=CjwKCAjw-svEBhB6EiwAEzSdrt47Rj0e6IqHPnT4u52FEArI91xAfKYPHP_3CeShccwhYDWeM7T9YhoCpYYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Otherwise the bottom bracket threads were good. The carbon layup in terms of visuals is nice. It is a nice responsive ride, cross winds are sketchy but thats my fault for riding in 40kmph+ gusts. It is nice to be running a mullet setup with the UDH compatibility. As always dealing with Peter is a pleasant experience.
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I finally had to time to build up the GR01 frame. It was not without its headaches such as being sent the wrong headset bearings from a retailer here in Canada.
The issues that I had with the frame was:
1. The rear chainstay from the brake line probably wasn't super clean, I didn't have an endoscope to look but I ended up "flossing" it with routing cables and the brake hose went through well afterwards.
2. The headset has a huge gap. I used the FSA headset Peter recommended in terms of bearings but the compression ring is really thick and sticks out significantly as seen in the picture. I welcome any recommendations for solving this issue as I see other frames are fine. This is the headset I used:
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-n55r-1-1-8-36-45--integrated-headset/138502170/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=14737909&country=ca&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22604584944&gbraid=0AAAAADvzHL-KtqYr2gl0JArwzm6aIBqiM&gclid=CjwKCAjw-svEBhB6EiwAEzSdrt47Rj0e6IqHPnT4u52FEArI91xAfKYPHP_3CeShccwhYDWeM7T9YhoCpYYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Otherwise the bottom bracket threads were good. The carbon layup in terms of visuals is nice. It is a nice responsive ride, cross winds are sketchy but thats my fault for riding in 40kmph+ gusts. It is nice to be running a mullet setup with the UDH compatibility. As always dealing with Peter is a pleasant experience.
You can use the headset cover and the compression ring from AliExpress – it's a copy of the ACR headset. This way, you'll only have a minimal gap left."
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005134607110.html
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I'm interested in getting this frame. Any tyre clearance issues running a 2x front mech? can you still clear a 45mm rear?
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You can use the headset cover and the compression ring from AliExpress – it's a copy of the ACR headset. This way, you'll only have a minimal gap left."
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005134607110.html
This is one of the worst design of headset spacers I have seen xD
You need to remove all the cables to adjust the height of the handlebars 🥹😠🤬🤢 [I noticed it this morning].
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I'm interested in getting this frame. Any tyre clearance issues running a 2x front mech? can you still clear a 45mm rear?
I would just message Peter directly on whatsapp he is usually pretty responsve.
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This is one of the worst design of headset spacers I have seen xD
You need to remove all the cables to adjust the height of the handlebars 🥹😠🤬🤢 [I noticed it this morning].
Yes the two part spacers aren't the greatest design-they should split left-right instead of front-back to allow for height adjustment without re-cabling.
I lowered my integrated handlebar just last week on mine-I cut the inside rib of the of the cable channel slot of the rear part of the two part spacer with kitchen scissors and was able to get both brake lines (no shifter lines with Di2) through.
I was lucky to have enough steer tube to support a cutting guide above the headset and shorten it with the bike laid on the side.
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Just ordered mine from Peter, excited to build it. First time experience here!
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So I recieved some pictures from Peter, his spacers seem to fit very neatly.
I ordered the L-twoo EGR groupset
Magene PES 515 powermeter
Very excited to build and test this ride.
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Started the build of my XMCS GR01 today. Gone as far as I can go until rest of parts arrive. Will be my first SRAM build so have been watching plenty of tutorials from SRAM and GCPerformance etc al to get tips on setting up (mainly the brakes and AXS as new to me).
Build so far:
XMCS GR01 - Large
XMCS Road Bars - 40 X 100
Tagoola XPLR wheels (asked for no decals, but easily removable. Will decide when finished)
Bikone Dub BB
SRAM Red Brifters
SRAM Force 12 speed RD
Generic SLT headset bearings
Ryet/Lexon headset spacers
Chaser UDH
Parts waiting on arrival:
SRAM Force Wide Crankset
SRAM Red/Force 46t Chainring
45mm Terra Speed Tyres
SRAM Rival 10-44 Cassette
Force 12 speed chain
Ryet Saddle
Build Comments:
Frame is very well finished. Super smooth internally and evidently faced where it matters (BB, headset seats, brake mounts). I am very impressed. The supplied mounting bolts are heavy and will be replaced with titanium. I got the XMCS road bars, not the fancy ones, and they were seriously easy to route didn't even need a routing kit, the cables just pushed in and came out where they needed first time. The BB threaded in resistance free by hand on both sides (possibly watched too many BBinfinite videos on this topic).
Paint for a black glossy is fine. I like black bikes, the majority of my bikes have been. Can't see any evidence of imperfections.
The supplied headset was slightly problematic. 1) No bearings provided, although Allen has said he's sent me some. 2) the gap between the headset and top (52x40x7) bearing was humongous, this is as a result of the bearing sitting flush with the top of its seat, and the supplied compression ring being very tall with the majority of it's bulk sitting above the bearing. Solution was to use a much lower Ryet compression ring and top cover/spacers and then epoxy XMCS handlebar spacer to the Ryet spacer. Given if bought the handlebar and how easily it routed I was keen to use it. Appears to work well, minimal gap and aesthetically is not too displeasing. 2nd minor issue, and easily resolved, was the supplied rear thru axle when torqued allows lateral play of the wheel. Having reinstalled the supplied UDH it still had lateral play. I tried a 1mm shorter, and built in additional flat washer, thru axle and play was immediately removed. I assume when the rear thru axle was installed the factory forgot to add a washer which is required to lock down the rear stays sufficiently. It's plausible I did something dumb, but not sure what, tried two hangers and two different rear wheels. The different thru axle resolved it immediately.
Will update again when I've finished my build.
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Does anyone know where I can a ring for under the bottom spacer?
My headset does not fit well after all. Or does anyone have other solutions.
I used 40x52x7 36 degree bearings
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Does anyone know where I can a ring for under the bottom spacer?
My headset does not fit well after all. Or does anyone have other solutions.
I used 40x52x7 36 degree bearings
See my post above.
Had exactly the same problem.
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Just throwing this out there for everyone's consideration, the integrated handlebar that shipped with mine is pretty damn loose on the steerer tube, quite a bit more than the bolts can take up. I suspect it was designed to be used with a shim of some kind, but there wasn't one shipped with the frameset. See pics.
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Just throwing this out there for everyone's consideration, the integrated handlebar that shipped with mine is pretty damn loose on the steerer tube, quite a bit more than the bolts can take up. I suspect it was designed to be used with a shim of some kind, but there wasn't one shipped with the frameset. See pics.
Yes, it's a native 1 1/4" stem, so you need the shim to adapt it to the 1 1/8" steerer tube.
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Yes, it's a native 1 1/4" stem, so you need the shim to adapt it to the 1 1/8" steerer tube.
Oh duh, that makes sense. Thanks. Is there anything special to consider when shimming carbon to carbon or will any old shim be fine?
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Oh duh, that makes sense. Thanks. Is there anything special to consider when shimming carbon to carbon or will any old shim be fine?
You may want to contact Peter to get the correct version with a lip on the top side-otherwise with the way the integrated stem cap fits it may be difficult to pre-load the bearings enough.
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You may want to contact Peter to get the correct version with a lip on the top side-otherwise with the way the integrated stem cap fits it may be difficult to pre-load the bearings enough.
Weird update:
I've been going back and forth with Allen about this and he has no idea what I'm talking about. They're being generous and aboveboard as far as I can tell, they sent me the full headset kit, but none of the stuff they sent me has any kind of shim in it and they say nobody else has brought this up with them. It's possible that I'm dumb and lost the shim when I first opened the packaging, but even then you'd think they would know what I meant. As of now, the best advice they have for me is to buy a random one off Ebay that I linked to provide an example and see if it works. So I guess that's what I'll do. Kind of baffled.
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Further update: I tried installing the headset using the spacer I found on Ebay, which I am pretty sure is the same as https://soshanger.com/en/accueil/2678-giant-od2-stem-shim-286mm-to-318mm.html
It did not work. The shim fits inside the stem, and fits over the steerer tube, but will not fit over the steerer tube when it is inside the stem. I fear that I have damaged the steerer tube in my attempt. See pic.
I'm extremely puzzled by this whole situation.
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Sorry for the long waiting time for an update.
So i bought the frame and combined them with these wheels https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1652 (https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1652) from carbon speed.
I also ordered the handlebars from them, and I really like them! https://xmcarbonspeed.cc/products/one-piece-molded-stiff,-reliable-carbon-speed-revenger-road-integrated-handlebar (https://xmcarbonspeed.cc/products/one-piece-molded-stiff,-reliable-carbon-speed-revenger-road-integrated-handlebar)
And i used the Schwalbe G-one RS Pro tires on them.
The problem with the gap at the spacers I solved by buying this on aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005005134607110.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.27.b14c1802AanGrS&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld (https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005005134607110.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.27.b14c1802AanGrS&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld) and combining it with the countercup XMCS send me and a bit of sanding of the bottom spacer.
The bearings XMCS send are 51,8 x 40 x 8 x 36°/45°, but this was a little lose when I inserted them in the frame. So I ordered other bearings with the size 52 x 40 x 7 x 36°/45°. These fitted the frame tightly.
XMCS did not send the countercup for the bottom bearing, I therefore used the crane creek 110 series 52/40mm.
I asked Peter the wrong hub on the wheels so I had to replace it with Z-race hub, these fitted the wheel perfectly.
Other items I used are:
The chainring I used a 40T as a 1x setup with the big casette. But 40T is actually to big for this frame. This made me buy spacers for the hollowtech crankset so that the chainring does not touch the frame. I now ordered a 36T gear and hope that this way I need less spacers. I also never used the 40x9 gear at the moment.
Casette: ZTTO 9-46 12s
BB: ZTT0 T47 But I think i'll have to replace this one, its a bit lose on the cracks.
Saddle: Ryet 3D printed full carbon, I did couple of 4-6h rides on the saddle. For me this saddle is very good.
Powermeter: Magene PES P 515 but I have battery problems with the powermeter, Magene will send me a new one.
Groupset: L-Twoo eGR 1x12s
The groupset worked but not the lowest 2 gears. I messaged L-Twoo and they send me a new rear derailleur. I replaced it yesterday and tested it today. It all seems in order now.
The Groupset works surprisingly good. But the breaking callipers are to wide for this frame the aero flap on the front wheel is in the way. So i had to sand it down to make it fit. I will replace that one with a smaller caliper in the future.
I now did 6 rides with the bike, 4 on offroad terrain (120km, 110km, 80km and 60km) and 2 on the road (110km and 60km). This frame is FAST! I really love this frame, I prefer to ride with this frame over my Trek Madone (2025).
10/10 would recommend if you are willing to work a bit on it. Probably would have been way easier to make this bike ride if I just ordered a SRAM or shimano groupset.
I added more links but I could not post then. I'll try again later if required.
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Update: I broke my saddle post in a Pothole. I contacted Peter for a replacement.
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Damn.... hope you get a replacement soon.
Peter is busy like crazy, so have to be lucky to catch him on WhatsApp.
Anyway, think this will be my next build. I'm planning to use a ThinkRider PP5 carbon crankset but with BikinGreen 46/30t compact chainrings. This will apparently move the chainline inboard by 2mm, so I'm curious it there is still space for the inner chainring?