Nice build. How does it ride ?
Nice one! Did you weighted it? Could you post some detailed pictures of the cockpit? Was it easy to find good position?
What happened to the cover on the seat tube? Does it not fit?
very nice.
can you please post 1000 pictures on the front end of the bike? i'm curious about how it works, how adjustable it is, whether it's well made and so on, because if you can't adjust that correctly, you can't get comfortable on the bike and it defeats the purpose.
the VB website has very little information about the front end.
Thanks!
Have actually just pulled the trigger on ordering a VB-TT-23 too for a cheap Disc Brake TT build but is yet to arrive. Frameset looked decent but only concern (not even concern, just my petty-ness) is the Basebar and the exposed bolts on the underside. My frameset is yet to arrive but thinking of getting some other basebars to address the aforementioned issue.
Don't suppose you could measure the width of the stem clamping section could you please?
Thanks
I also ordered this frame a few weeks ago, still waiting for it to arrive. I also asked them to add some bento box rivets to the top tube which they said yes to, so that's an option.
Is there any way of routing di2 cables down the extensions? I was assuming that there was an exit hole somewhere at the bottom of the extensions but I cant see one
I actually ordered a tririg alpha one to replace mt basebar and extensions. I have a few measurements i did before ordering it, see attached pictures. Let me know if you need any other measurements.
I also ordered this frame a few weeks ago, still waiting for it to arrive. I also asked them to add some bento box rivets to the top tube which they said yes to, so that's an option.
Thats great, appreciate that! I was thinking of doing similar and replacing the stock stem with Tri Rig or alike. Whats your general thoughts on the frame? I had minor reservations about slippage on contact points like seatpost and handlebar so always curious to hear. Also, what Bottom Bracket are you running, looking at the dimensions and then looking online they seem to be the same BB as the Trek? I see you went for the SRAM Crankset so guessing its a T47-86.5 SRAM Dub?
I also asked them to add some bento box rivets to the top tube which they said yes to, so that's an option.
Picture from ironman event
Finished the build just in time I guess! Hope you are happy with your bike split. I'm doing a 70.3 next weekend on my road bike and if I like it, I'll build a tt over the off season and do a full IM next season. Nice picture, and nice fit btw! Care to share your height and frame size?
Picture from ironman event
Picture from ironman event
Cool picture. Really love the bike as well! Clean lines, think it should do well against frames like Trek Speedconcept, Cayon Speedmax, etc.
Just 3 observations:
- I think a giro Aerohead will save you minutes (almost for free, sell this one, buy new one). Also, your helmet looks bit small.
- I would switch to rear facing BTA bottle placed as high and far back as possible
- race without socks, easier to put them on in T2. Saves you some seconds and you start the run with fresh socks
Does it appear to fit the claimed 32c tires?
1st proper ride with the VB-TT-023 today
Bike is truly stiff, broke alot of PR’s today on a route that i havent been on for several months. Considering that this is my first time on a TT bike, i am truly happy with the frame and my build, no issues on a 63 mile ride with 1k feet of elevation, i completed the ride in 3:06.22 averaging 20.1mph on 204watts.
What's the fit like for your Alpha One around the headset area? I just got both my frame and the Alpha One but its quite skinny compared to the stock Stem?
Ultimate cups. What's what she said.
You guys are talking cockpits /stems that aren't stock with the velobuild frame, right? I'm considering getting one and obviously the bike fit, and therefore the cockpit to a large extent, is the most important thing to go fast on such a bike.
Can you please explain for us what cockpit you got / didn't get, how it compares to the VB, why and so on?
Ultimate cups. That's what she said.
You guys are talking cockpits /stems that aren't stock with the velobuild frame, right? I'm considering getting one and obviously the bike fit, and therefore the cockpit to a large extent, is the most important thing to go fast on such a bike.
Can you please explain for us what cockpit you got / didn't get, how it compares to the VB, why and so on?
Picture from ironman eventHow did you apply the lettering to the frame?
1st proper ride with the VB-TT-023 todayIs the ospw fake?
Bike is truly stiff, broke alot of PR’s today on a route that i havent been on for several months. Considering that this is my first time on a TT bike, i am truly happy with the frame and my build, no issues on a 63 mile ride with 1k feet of elevation, i completed the ride in 3:06.22 averaging 20.1mph on 204watts.
I'm not far off pulling the trigger on purchasing this frame, checked out all the other options and this just feels like the right frame for me. Just need to sort out final colour and costing (Chris has been super helpful answering all my questions), thinking mat black to match the wheels. My build will take a few months as the wheels are going to take a while to build. Hopefully on the road early Jan.
Planning to double sided sticky tape the bento box, not as clean a solution but allows for my ProfileDesign FC35 to be custom mounted in front of it. I plan on running the stock bars, unless my bike fitter says not to.
All the bike builds posted here are nice and clean looking.
Finally finished my VB-TT build. Only ridden on Turbo so far so no idea on road feel / secureness of contact points (particularly concerned about Bars / Seatpost slipping on bumpy terrain)
Components:
SRAM Force Rear Mech
2 pairs of SRAM AXS Wireles Blips
76 Projects Blip Holders
RideRever Trivia TT Brakes
Stock Basebar and Vision TFE Clone Bars
Pass Quest 56t Single Chainring
Dura Ace R9200 167.5 mm Crankset
KMC 12 Speed Chain
Praxis T47 Integrated Bottom Bracket (Shimano)
Shimano 105 R7100 11-34t Cassette
ISM PN3.1 Saddle
*I do have a SRAM Red eTap AXS Front Mech and Pass Quest 56/42t Double Chainring for a 2x setup
Tri Spoke and Disc to be obtained in due course.
Cost: £1,921.54 (not including labor to build or 2x Chainset setup)
Finally finished my VB-TT build. Only ridden on Turbo so far so no idea on road feel / secureness of contact points (particularly concerned about Bars / Seatpost slipping on bumpy terrain)
Components:
SRAM Force Rear Mech
2 pairs of SRAM AXS Wireles Blips
76 Projects Blip Holders
RideRever Trivia TT Brakes
Stock Basebar and Vision TFE Clone Bars
Pass Quest 56t Single Chainring
Dura Ace R9200 167.5 mm Crankset
KMC 12 Speed Chain
Praxis T47 Integrated Bottom Bracket (Shimano)
Shimano 105 R7100 11-34t Cassette
ISM PN3.1 Saddle
*I do have a SRAM Red eTap AXS Front Mech and Pass Quest 56/42t Double Chainring for a 2x setup
Tri Spoke and Disc to be obtained in due course.
Cost: £1,921.54 (not including labor to build or 2x Chainset setup)
Love it! Didn't know you could mix and match Shimano and sram like that, but apparently you never stop learning!
I'm due to receive my frame soon aswell and plan to go for a 1x setup as well (living in pancake flat northern Germany..). So I'm wondering what offset did you chose on there passquest chainring? Did you spend lots of time to optimize the chain line?
I all, I am considering buying the VB tt 023 as well. I am 190 with 87 cm inseam so kind of "short legs". I am really in doubt if it would fit me and would therefore love to hear if someone was able to give any advice on fit? Furthermore is any one aware if it is possible to mount a BTA system?
Best
Markus
I all, I am considering buying the VB tt 023 as well. I am 190 with 87 cm inseam so kind of "short legs". I am really in doubt if it would fit me and would therefore love to hear if someone was able to give any advice on fit? Furthermore is any one aware if it is possible to mount a BTA system?
I all, I am considering buying the VB tt 023 as well. I am 190 with 87 cm inseam so kind of "short legs". I am really in doubt if it would fit me and would therefore love to hear if someone was able to give any advice on fit? Furthermore is any one aware if it is possible to mount a BTA system?
Best
Markus
Did you go for it? I am 186cm with 91cm legs and I fear the L is too small because of my inseam. I still think this frame is the best option out there if it fits.
the VB frame is out for me. VB doesn't even answer messages.
New one in the mix is the Elves Falath. It's an aero bike. But they have a nice TT setup. But need to dig deeper...
if you are considering a tri-mod falath, take note of sebastan kienle tri-mod scott foil (ttx38)
Can you elaborate on that, I'm very interested?
I have a buddy who purchased a Yoeleo TT frame for his road bike setup.
that yeoleo T9 is the tt912, though that pic uses some aftermarket fork.
my tt912 is a tad large as i need the reach (tantan only have 80mm n 100mm stem). had tantan offers 120-130 stem, i would gone 1size down.
you have the ttx38, thats close to a foil, and foil to last gen plasma (as close a road frame to a tt frame)
Even with my TanTan x38 I'm still needing to run a 140mm stem. Frame reach is 394 stack 575. With the reach and steep seatpost angle of the VB-TT-023 in a size large I could get away with a 100-110mm stem. It would probably still corner like a yacht. But 90% of my rides are solo on long flat roads.
That looks great!
Are those the Winow extensions? What do you think of them?
All parts have finally arrived and got the rig set up. This is what it looks like pretty much in race set up (1st race is IM Lanza so front mech needed, but will be removed for flatter races).
Made a DIY BTA bottle cage plate from an AliEx carbon plate and a 3 slot bottle age adaptor common in MTBing.
The Trek Speedconcept Gen 3 (disc brake) specific downtube bottle doesnt work on this frame as it comes, however I'll find a way to mod the that bottle cage to fit. That or use the Orbea Ordu OMX or Cervelo downtube bottle.
(okay, one thing: I'd like the BTA to be horizontal to the toptube and not with the angle of the wedge --> given that you like DIY, I think that's an easy one for you :) )
All parts have finally arrived and got the rig set up.
I agree it would look a heck of a lot more satisfying if it was parallel to top tube, however I like an angle to it so when I’ve got race nutrition in the BTA bottle it won’t leak out the bottle as easy.
You should see some of the other shit house things I’ve done after seeing the arms race the pro triathlon peloton has done with bottles. Pic below is the more tame set ups I did.
Could someone please post the measurement between the two basebar towers? Center screw to center screw.
Can someone advice on the bottom brackets they used? Almost all parts for my build are ready except the bottom bracket because I cannot find a SRAM DUB bb for the TT-023 frame shell width of 86.5mm. I am running a SRAM Force AXS 1x setup with 165mm DUB Force D2 crankset and Red 1x 50T. Will the SRAM DUB Road T47 bb do the job or I need the Road Wide version? Thanks.
Could someone please post the measurement between the two basebar towers? Center screw to center screw.I asked chris from VB. Basebar 400 / 420 / 440mm -> 81,5 / 101,50 / 120,50mm
Doneeee. Took longer than expected as I fiddled a lot with the cockpit. Very happy overall but the list of wanted/unnecessary updates is longnice!
nice!Thanks! I wasn't aware there were different sizes. I can measure it for you, but will take until the weekend is over.
Which Leap S900 Grip Shifter is it, 24 or 25?
Nice tool Box, where did you get it from?Self designed and 3d printed. :) it's still undergoing a revision since I cannot mount a bottle in the frame any more. But afterwards I'm happy to share the .stl file if you want
Doneeee. Took longer than expected as I fiddled a lot with the cockpit. Very happy overall but the list of wanted/unnecessary updates is long
Love the paintjob and the cockpit looks super slick. Have you done something to increase the reach? Those bars look alot further forward than they did with the standard VB plate that the extension towers bolt in to.
Thanks! I wasn't aware there were different sizes. I can measure it for you, but will take until the weekend is over.
Self designed and 3d printed. :) it's still undergoing a revision since I cannot mount a bottle in the frame any more. But afterwards I'm happy to share the .stl file if you want
A question about the seat post.
There are new regulations from the DTU and the “sword” as it is now on the seatpost and as it is also on Canyon will probably be prohibited.
Is there another way to attach water bottles to the seat post? Is there perhaps a cavity like on the Avenger frame here?
https://www.lambda-racing.de/rennraeder
That would be awesome, i am searching for it.
All parts have finally arrived and got the rig set up. This is what it looks like pretty much in race set up (1st race is IM Lanza so front mech needed, but will be removed for flatter races).
Made a DIY BTA bottle cage plate from an AliEx carbon plate and a 3 slot bottle age adaptor common in MTBing.
The Trek Speedconcept Gen 3 (disc brake) specific downtube bottle doesnt work on this frame as it comes, however I'll find a way to mod the that bottle cage to fit. That or use the Orbea Ordu OMX or Cervelo downtube bottle.
I suggest using PETG for this box, as it offers flexibility aswell as heat stability and UV resistance. Both pieces can be printed without support if you flip them to the flat side in your slicer. You'll need two M5 screws to attach it to the frame. Sadly using this toolbox, you will not be able to mount bottlecages in the frame correctly any more. I haven't found a way yet to circumvent this, but if I do I'll post a new revision.Thanks a lot for this service!
Hi Riders!Can anyone measure the horizontal and vertical diameter of the handlebars against the stem?
I bought and assembled VB-023-TT with standard cockpit. And I have a problem: the stem don't fixed cockpit properly.
Have anybody same problem? What torque you applied to stem bolts?
https://www.yoeleocanada.com/products/ltwoo-er9-tt-groupset
This can't ship to you? or yoeleo not canada somehow?
Did you check panda podium? (I didnt).
Princeton wheels with mechanical shifting and mechanical disc brakes? Dude...How many kmh add hydraulic brakes and electronic shifting?
Doneeee. Took longer than expected as I fiddled a lot with the cockpit. Very happy overall but the list of wanted/unnecessary updates is long
@mattgold: It looks like you have 150mm spacers under the trailers. Is this still stable or does it wobble a lot under load?
I had another look at transferring my Shimano set up and it looks like it will be a pain (as it is now!) Especially keeping the junction box internal. So I will probably go down the SRAM two pairs of blips route with the RideRever (Triva hydraulic TT) brakes. Anyone any feedback on those?
I’m running the RideRever Trivia’s and 2 pairs of blips. Works a-ok for me, no complaints really. Don’t have a huge amount of time outdoors logged on them but they seem to do their job.
Will be doing Lanzarote IM on it in 6 weeks time so they will really get put through their paces their.
Can you post photos of how you routed the hydraulic brake cables?
Sadly not, as you wouldn't see anything. Its entirely internally routed. Through the basebar and than through the back of the hole in the clamping area and through the stem
Can you post photos of how you routed the hydraulic brake cables? My set of riderever triva brakes is still on its way from Japan and I am currently using cable-actuated brakes. And it is not a good experience so far. I have changed the cables twice and the braking power is still not satisfactory. I have routed the brake cables through the top holes of the stem and brought them inside the stock base bar holes on the lower side. It looks ugly and not so aerodynamic. These cable-actuated cables seem to be so hard to bend and go through the stem as hidden/internal routed cables. I am running 1x sram force with wireless blips so the only cables I have are the brake cables.
Princeton wheels with mechanical shifting and mechanical disc brakes? Dude...How does mechanical shifting and mechanical disc brakes affect aerodynamics...
Thank you for the info. Since this will be my last resort (full hydraulic brakes) I don’t want to mess it up. You routed the cables from the calipers to the base bars, correct? Or is it the other way around? I am assuming that these hydraulic brake cables are far softer than the jagwire pro brake kit cables (cable actuated) that I initially used.
I had my LBS ran the lines as it is a very tight fit (brake lines only, I didn't have the tools). From what they said you need to tighten the levers in first then pull the cables through to the callipers, mounting the front end as you go. The reverse of how it would normally be done. Also the headset top tightens front to back. Otherwise the bull horns don't sit tight enough to hold riders weight.
I have a big problem with the stem of my TT023.I had similar issues: the stem would spin on the steerer, and the handlebar would spin in the stem.
It doesn't hold properly, so the basebar twists when there is a strong shock. For example, I have just ridden through a pothole and the basebar has twisted a little in the stem.
As a result, I can no longer brake as the brake cables are crushed.
I have already used carbon assembly paste and tightened all the screws evenly.
Any ideas or other experiences?
I have routed the brake lines from the brake levers to the brake bodies. I also tightened the stem at the bottom front first.
Thank you.
I can't imagine that it will help.
My carbon paste is very good, I already know that from other projects. There are massive differences.
I tightened the screws both crosswise and first on the underside at the front of the stem and then on the top.
But I'm curious to see what the support team writes.
In any case, it's far too tricky if the brakes suddenly fail.
Another nuance, perhaps it also had significance: I tightened the central bolt last, after tightening the lower and upper bolts.
Yeah these are the first release of the Winow extensions paired with a drag 2 zero 15 deg spacer. Generally pretty happy with the extensions. Still yet to sort a garmin mount as I don’t fancy paying the £25 for the winow ones / I like DIYing it.
Handlebar problem solved!
The support was great - they sent a new stem and handlebars.
I really like this frame and I am considering pulling the trigger and buy it but I just can't figure out where to store gels during IM/70.3 events
I don't like the idea of the box on the top tube because kinda defeats the purpose of having a nice flat stem and top tube.
What real alternatives are there? Does anyone have any picture of their setup?
I thought of this issue too when buying, and my solution is a mixture of Gels in the back pocket and running 2x bottles up front. 1 1L bottle with my carb mix and then 1 small 500ml or elite aero bottle with a load of gels squeezed into it.
Same, I'm doing 100% liquid feed as well. Otherwise I'd have gotten the tantan 912, because it has a bento box. I like your cockpit setup! I haven't dared to pull the trigger on the winow bars yet as I am afraid they are too short (fasttt makes an XL variant, winow not..). How tall are you and what bar size you have?I am 187 cm (6ft2 ish) and pretty sure I am on the L version (I got these when they first were released by Winow). I've paired them with the FastTT reach extender brackets and they now fit really quite nice.
By the way, are you keeping the colored bracelets on your bike so you can shorten the next run during an IM? :D
Hi guys, I´ve been reading this thread as I´m building a bike with this frame.
I have a question: Does the lower headset bearing needs a cap for the frame or it just sits on the steerer tube?
I only got 1 cap in the headset box installation.
Have a nice sunday
Thank you
I get the feeling that VB is making a lot of errors on this frame, no? I'm following from a distance because fundamentally, i'd like to get a TT bike, but i really, really dont need one, but is it me or a lot of people are having problems with the front end?
Or is it user error mostly?
Like the inside of that steerer looks absolutely horrendous?
What I call the compression plug is the insert that goes inside the fork. You can see in the picture that is not going down any further in the fork, so I can´t put the top of the stem.
And I will attach a picture with the seat post issue. To clamp the seat, you need a screw and 2 parts. Onepart must not be threaded, only the one in the end of the screw. Mine are both threaded
I get the feeling that VB is making a lot of errors on this frame, no? I'm following from a distance because fundamentally, i'd like to get a TT bike, but i really, really dont need one, but is it me or a lot of people are having problems with the front end?
Or is it user error mostly?
Like the inside of that steerer looks absolutely horrendous?
I was totally up to tinkering and solving all these tiny issues - as i completely expected from a Chinese frame.
The stuff that challenged me most was also the cockpit.. bars slipped on the first ride (because I "too carefully" torqued them up).
Now with greater torque, everthing seems fine.
Coincidentally, I asked a couple of hours ago to VB for the max torque just to be sure. I will edit it in the post later when they reply =-
I actually never build a bike up before.. but it was surprisingly more straight forwards than expected.
Also had to cut the fork by myself.. but with care that was easily enough.
But.. for sure.. specific torque settings would have given me more confidence in the build stage and test rides :)
Doneeee. Took longer than expected as I fiddled a lot with the cockpit. Very happy overall but the list of wanted/unnecessary updates is long
Hey @mattgolt,
Have you got any pics of your front setup?
That sounds interesting.
Please take a photo of all the parts of the headset and then I can label them for you in order.
The fork steerer should be short enough so that the top cap does not (!) touch the compression plug.
It's just like the road bike, except that the stem is at a slight angle. You still have to cut the steerer straight.
Ah, I know what you mean. I didn't have a screw with a narrower head either. It's just a question of appearance.
And I didn't even have an additional top cap. And you don't need one. I've been riding it for 5,000 km now and have been able to adjust the headset well.
I also swapped the compression plug for a shorter one, which fitted better.
Don't forget to install the fork cone and the centering ring at the top.
Ah, I know what you mean. I didn't have a screw with a narrower head either. It's just a question of appearance.
And I didn't even have an additional top cap. And you don't need one. I've been riding it for 5,000 km now and have been able to adjust the headset well.
I also swapped the compression plug for a shorter one, which fitted better.
Don't forget to install the fork cone and the centering ring at the top.
Does anyone on here know what the downtube storage pictured on the velobuild website would be? I asked on whatsapp and they could only say that the customer installed it. I'm hoping to do something similar and would like to know if I need bottle cage rivets installed before ordering.
• PASS QUEST X110 BCD (4-bolt AERO) AXS Round Narrow Wide Chainring
Careful with the passquest chainrings. They make specific ones for the SRAM flattop chains. I found out the hard way and had to buy a new one :D It's absolutely gorgeous though and works flawlessly.
Hi guys, anyone had a problem with the stem? I mean - I screwed the side screws of the stem to 5NM and it is just so wobbly, the wheel does not turn with the rest of the cockpit. Do you think it is safe to put more than 5NM or what else can I do to fix it?
Yeah that looks bad, looks like half of the stem would clamp on nothing.Thank you so much for your help! What an idiot I am…
1. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005627177754.html. That might work. Never used one, so check the diameters, but in principle, it should work?
2. A ghetto version would be to epoxy back a piece of the steerer on top of the steerer, then use the longest expander plug you can fit / find, so as to spread forces as far down the steerer as possible. There's a decent chance the epoxy bond would snap when you hit a pothole, i really dont know how much force steerers absorb, and how much they deform. There's a reason most catastrophic failures tend to happen in this area. Specialized recalled an entire model because of a fuck up there.
3. The easy way out is indeed to get a new fork.
I think 1&2 are worth exploring, unless you plan to ride the bike a tremedous amount and on sketchy terrain. Most TT bikes never see much elevation change, or sprints, so the demands on them are lower than on road bikes.
As someone who's ridden bikes that were too large for years (turns out i have long legs, and a short torso), you can usually fit yourself on a frame that's too small, but the opposite isnt true.
Unless someone chips in on your specifics, i'd be wary of going against Chris' advice. If the frame ends up being too large, you will have a very, very bad experience.
Hey triathletes,
I’m reaching out because I’m about to order my VB TT-023 frameset, but I’m hesitating between size S and M...
Chris recommended a size S, but I’m worried it might feel a bit tight.
For reference, I’m 1.72m tall with an inseam of 80 cm.
Do you have any recommendations or feedback based on your own experience?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Such info without relative limb length is largely irrelevant and can be very confusing for people. If you have a long torso and long arms, and tiny legs, the frame you need will be totally different from the opposite. At least add your saddle height if you dont know the relative length of your limbs.
I'm also currently building a 1X crankset with Sram and 165mm. I can't find a reliable site that has a crankset available with these specifications (Red, Force, whatever). Even used ones. They've become a rare commodity!
I had a question about road crank length vs. triathlon crank length. For road use, I'm using 170mm cranks, and I thought that to improve my drag coefficient and overall aerodynamics, it would be better to upgrade to 165mm cranks for my TT bike. What are your thoughts?
Also be careful not to overtightend. Otherwise it will "crack" and you will need a new stem.
Don't ask me how I know that :D.
I've been considering a triathlon bike for my first 70.3 which will be in the next year and this frame seemed like a good value.
I came up with 2 potential builds (one slightly cheaper using PASS QUEST chainring and ENLEE rotors instead of their SRAM's counterparts), but since I've never built a bike from scratch I'm not sure if I selected incompatible parts or something which simply won't work. Could you help me reviewing it, please?
One concern that I have is that this 1X setup might be hard for me on the climbs (although the course has only 450m of altitude difference over the 90km), since my FTP is a bit low still 150W. However, I have almost a full year of training ahead to improve, so maybe the 50T chainring won't be an issue.
I have placed some parts which I already have available from my road bike, such as the wheels, tires and saddle (will look for a triathlon focused one soon), so I'm considering using those in the beginning and replace them with best suited parts for triathlon in the following months. I'm thiking about getting 65/80 wheels from Peter (Carbon Speed), an ISM saddle (no idea about the model yet) and conti 5000s. If you have any suggestion, please, let me know!
Here's the link for the Google Sheet with the mentioned builds: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1fES4X-LiPKhs_fiS6qy5EmR8PGFpCd6POgR4Y5Vlm0Y/edit?usp=sharing
Consider this one which is very hard to beat in terms of weight, performance, compatibility, flexibility and price. Have been using for a while and no complaints at all. Also very good online reviews:
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005008667737305.html
Can´t open teh link. Can u post the title description or a picture?
I used to run 175 on a giant propel bike i rigget as a TT bike. I'm now on 170, and considering 165. I probably wouldn't go shorter, i'm tall w long legs. My point: is the 175 a choice? You're probably going to have your knees come up to your chest in tuck, it's likely going to cost you a F*** ton of watts. You'll still go watts, mind you, but chances are, your FTP in tuck vs your FTP upright on a bike is going to be massively different.
Very curious about the front end, because uncertainties there is the key reason why i still dont feel comfortable ordering a TT bike. Front end has to fit like a glove, or you're leaving a lot of speed & comfort on the table.
My TT build is almost done, thanks to this discussion for all the tips and tricks!
Still left to finish:
- Extensions (larger extensions on their way from VB)
- Front Hydration (Universal BTA mount from Fast TT)
- 3D printed toolbox from @mattgolt
Build Details
SRAM Rival AXS D1
SRAM RED D2 Crank 175MM
Passquest 54T
SRAM DUB T47
RIDEREVER Triva
SRAM Wireless Blips (Pair)
76 Projects Blip holders
Elitewheels 50mm (disc to come)
Continental gp5000
SRAM Force 10-33
My TT build is almost done, thanks to this discussion for all the tips and tricks!
Still left to finish:
- Extensions (larger extensions on their way from VB)
- Front Hydration (Universal BTA mount from Fast TT)
- 3D printed toolbox from @mattgolt
Build Details
SRAM Rival AXS D1
SRAM RED D2 Crank 175MM
Passquest 54T
SRAM DUB T47
RIDEREVER Triva
SRAM Wireless Blips (Pair)
76 Projects Blip holders
Elitewheels 50mm (disc to come)
Continental gp5000
SRAM Force 10-33
Hi,
Also build a TT bike from that same frame set and couldn't be happier:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mE7LtKe21CTyAYtPoBpYAIpCF4da8K-i?usp=sharing
I did completely customize the TT base bar though, by cutting out my ow from a 4 mm thick carbon sheet, which brought the arm rests further forward and further apart. I also custom-printed two 12 cm high, one-piece spacers, as I prefer a much higher upper body position (and yes, I used extra long high-grade steel M6 bolts rather than the included, shorter M5 bolts). And I added a custom, 3D-printed aero-shaped 2-gel nutrition box underneath the base plate.
Best,
Martin
P.S. VeloBuild even shows it off on their product page now, albeit with an older version of the cockpit, using their base bar, not the one I eventually installed:
https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/vb-tt-023-new-t47-carbon-fiber-time-trial-frame-set-disc-integrated-cables
mauwth would you mind sharing what option did you take for your crankset? I can see you are using Sram Rival with powermeterNot Rival, it's Apex, because I exclusively do flat TTs, so weight was not a factor for me.
and it looks like the cheapest option but the original chainring is too small (T46).Correct: 46t max, which wasn't nearly enough for me for a TT bike. I installed these instead:
What is the box you put bellow the frame?https://www.orbea.com/es-es/equipement/spare-parts/cat/tool-box-kit-ordu-omx
Does anyone have a solution for a BTA setup with a Garmin mount on the stock Velobuild handlebars?
2mm Carbon Plate: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007049758967.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.134.76655c5f3nCeDh&gatewayAdapt=glo2deuHi, thanks for sharing in details.
Bottle mount long: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008585918087.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.69.76655c5f3nCeDh&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
Bottle mount short: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006788434505.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.99.76655c5f3nCeDh&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
Garmin Mount: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006233411618.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.104.76655c5f3nCeDh&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
Hello guys, first time posting. I've been inspired by your builds and I'm thinking about ordering the frame and components. I have thought of the following build, please tell me what you think or ir there are better alternatives.
Frame: Velobuild TT-023 size S (169 cm tall, 75cm inseam)
Groupset: LTWOO ER9 TT (would be cheaper ~720 USD than buying SRAM RD, Bleeps, and braking system)
Wheels: 65mm wheels from Velobuild (looking for better options but within a reasonable budget i.e. less than 800 USD)
Cranks: PES 515 with powermeter (165 mm) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005506880823.html
Chainrings: Goldix 54-40 110 BCD (I think i can use it as 1X also) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008635340478.html
BB: ZTTO T47 24mm https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003124765596.html
Brake Rotors: Unbranded, found them on Tracevelo's website https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32878710242
Cassette: ZTTO SLR 12 speed 11-32 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007748021425
Chain: KMC 12 speed (will buy locally)
Pedals: ONIRII SPD steel axle https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006979501199.html
Seat: Still looking for options
Please let me know if I'm missing something or if there are better alternatives to the ones I'm choosing. I cannot afford to spend more than 4,000 USD on whole build. I would be racing 70.3 but i would train on both flat courses but also on climbs with average 4% gradients for 8kms.
Hello guys, first time posting. I've been inspired by your builds and I'm thinking about ordering the frame and components. I have thought of the following build, please tell me what you think or ir there are better alternatives.
Frame: Velobuild TT-023 size S (169 cm tall, 75cm inseam)
Groupset: LTWOO ER9 TT (would be cheaper ~720 USD than buying SRAM RD, Bleeps, and braking system)
Wheels: 65mm wheels from Velobuild (looking for better options but within a reasonable budget i.e. less than 800 USD)
Cranks: PES 515 with powermeter (165 mm) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005506880823.html
Chainrings: Goldix 54-40 110 BCD (I think i can use it as 1X also) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008635340478.html
BB: ZTTO T47 24mm https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003124765596.html
Brake Rotors: Unbranded, found them on Tracevelo's website https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32878710242
Cassette: ZTTO SLR 12 speed 11-32 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007748021425
Chain: KMC 12 speed (will buy locally)
Pedals: ONIRII SPD steel axle https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006979501199.html
Seat: Still looking for options
Please let me know if I'm missing something or if there are better alternatives to the ones I'm choosing. I cannot afford to spend more than 4,000 USD on whole build. I would be racing 70.3 but i would train on both flat courses but also on climbs with average 4% gradients for 8kms.
well, i would rethink to install the ltwoo tt system..if you can live with a fail during a race, go for it..if you want reliable components and easy and fast swappable parts available around, i would go for sram or shimano....there is nothing more frustrating, than being somewhere on the world racing and missing it because a part breaks and cannot be swapped...
We have sold ltwoo for quite a while, and not even one setup is still on a bike...customer service does not exist for dealers and only available via aliexpress....
being involved in 70.3 races myself and putting loads of energy and time in these projects and do not risk a dnf because of the gear.
Just my thoughts...
where did you get 720 USD for er9tt? The few aliexp stores i've seen it on had it listed for over 1k. Also i really wish they would make this in an XL :/
Has this already happened to anyone here?
Even when I first received the stem, I already found that the finishing quality wasn’t great…
Does anyone know how to install taller aerobar spacers that are compatible with the original aerobars? Or perhaps angled spacers for a better fit?
Hello everyone,
Thanks to your advice, I ordered and started assembling my VB-TT-023. However, I just ran into an issue while tightening the 4 bolts on the stem (the ones holding the handlebar). Chris had advised me to torque them to 5 Nm, but as a precaution I started gradually at 3 Nm and then 4 Nm, when I suddenly heard a sharp cracking sound. The lower part of the stem cracked at that point (see attached photo).
Has this already happened to anyone here?
Even when I first received the stem, I already found that the finishing quality wasn’t great…
That's awesome!
All i can think of to mod it a bit is a bunch of hooks on the sides so one can carry grenades, ideally sticky a la Halo, to get rid of the competition during races. Or cars during training rides.
Hi Guys,
I am thinking about buying the VB-TT-023 frame, but I want to know how far the seatpost can be extended?
The description on their Homepage say, 400mm length. But is it the whole length of the seatpost or is it the length which I can extend?
Thanks for your answers 😉
Yo yo yo, 3d printable rear bottle holder is finished! It replaces the one that comes with the frame, but elevates the bottle higher and mounts it horizontal. I suggest using a bottle mount adapter for fine tuning the fore/aft of the bottle, but it could be mounted directly. (Depending on the bottle cage, you might touch the bottle though)The 3D printable rear bottle holder is amazing, but unfortunately I’m a bit short (5ft6), so I can’t leave enough space for two bolt holes on the seatpost.
It is compliant with the current ironman/world triathlon rules about the mount for the rear hydration having to fit in a 30x30cm box.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7128222
The total length of the seatpost is approx 400mm. But judging from the grip-paint on the seatpost, you should keep minimum ~120mm of the seatpost in the frame. I currently have ~170mm of seatpost in the frame, so I could actually raise the seat by another ~50mm. All made up numbers btw - I didnt find any information from VB.
On the frame L, my setup gives me 83cm from saddle to bottom bracket. I'm 188cm with 92cm inseam.
If you are really tall, this frame would probably be too short before you run into seatpost issues :D
Did an olympic triathlon last weekend. Managed to average over 40km/h on this frame ;D Stoked to see how it will perform in the longer races next yearWhere did you get that computer tower/ riser? And what aero bars are those, they look sharp?
Did an olympic triathlon last weekend. Managed to average over 40km/h on this frame ;D Stoked to see how it will perform in the longer races next year
Right now the Riderever Triva are the cheapest hydraulic brakes for TT bikes, but the sram blip part is impossible to find, using it glued is a downside for me.
Does anyone know anything about the iiiPro ET7 brakes pictured at the Trace Velo video of Eurobike?
https://youtu.be/gZlHoCT9Kak?si=e5nNXdB0a0DNWtNB&t=772
I’m currently working on a setup with Riderever Triva brake levers, and I was also looking for a technical and stylish way to integrate the blips. I just received this part (https://leapcomponents.com/product/sram-s900-grip-shifter/), which is normally only compatible with SRAM S900, but I’ll check if it works with the Riderever levers. If it does, it could be a great alternative!
Hi, I'm looking at getting the VB-R-368 which looks to have the same seatpost as the TT-023. Can someone with this frame show what the adjustable seat clamp looks like? Wondering how much adjustment there is fore-aft.
My thoughts: if I had to build again today, I’d go with SRAM, since you only need to run the hydraulic hoses. The Shimano system is a nightmare, with lots of wires and 11V-to-12V converters.
Hi,What a lovely built 😍.
This is my first post here on the forum. I have a Velobuild TT and also one of their road bikes.
Last year I built 2 TT bikes, mine and a friend’s, because we raced the 70.3 Emilia Romagna here in Italy.
My setup is basically stock, with some extra spacers to raise the front a bit more, built with Shimano Ultegra and a bit of 105. The wheels are from Officine Mattio, the Wave model, size 40 for the road bike and 60 for the TT. I work at the headquarters of this bike brand, so I end up buying the parts here since I get them for less.
My thoughts: if I had to build again today, I’d go with SRAM, since you only need to run the hydraulic hoses. The Shimano system is a nightmare, with lots of wires and 11V-to-12V converters.
Happy to help with any build questions if anyone needs.
Yo yo yo, 3d printable rear bottle holder is finished! It replaces the one that comes with the frame, but elevates the bottle higher and mounts it horizontal. I suggest using a bottle mount adapter for fine tuning the fore/aft of the bottle, but it could be mounted directly. (Depending on the bottle cage, you might touch the bottle though)Hi Matt, what's the point of having it on this pole instead of the stock one?
It is compliant with the current ironman/world triathlon rules about the mount for the rear hydration having to fit in a 30x30cm box.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7128222
What a lovely built 😍.
How did you get the extra spacers ? What is the final screw lenght after all ?
Thanks
I don't know why shimano hasn't figured out wireless blips and such.
Even Ltwoo's new TT group is fully wireless at the front end.
Hi Matt, what's the point of having it on this pole instead of the stock one?
Is it for accessibility concerns or is there any aero concerns that this setup addresses?
Thank you
Stock one is fine if you just want to carry a bottle. That position is probably "aero neutral". However, recent studies from ezgains (I think it was them), showed that for behind the saddle bottles:
- elevating the bottle as high as possible
- putting it horizontal
- maybe adding a 2nd bottle
Can give you a positive aero effect, similar to a BTA bottle.
I don't think a bento box would fit nicely on this frame, because the headset is recessed so the basebar sits flat with the frame, which I very much prefer. This is one of the reasons why I chose this frame over the winow T119 frame.
However, my dream is still to find a cockpit with a monoriser, and then put a bottle/bento box behind it. That's why I had velobuild put in two threads on the top tube, but I haven't used them yet.
Yeah about cutting a hole in the frame for a bladder.... Idk if I would be brave enough riding that 😁 But if you want to go down that route, fyi: canyon does sell the bladder for the speedmax separately including the filling valve, and they're not even that expensive
Stock one is fine if you just want to carry a bottle. That position is probably "aero neutral". However, recent studies from ezgains (I think it was them), showed that for behind the saddle bottles:GoT it
- elevating the bottle as high as possible
- putting it horizontal
- maybe adding a 2nd bottle
Can give you a positive aero effect, similar to a BTA bottle.
I am very interested by this frame for my upcoming long distance triathlon, I've read in the thread that I can contact chris from velobuild, anyone got his contact?
How much overall can I expect to pay for a full build?
Support@velobuild.com
I paid 2000€ for complete Bike with new wheelset and the other components second Hand. (50mm Carbon Wheelset, 2 x 12 SRAM axs, riderever triva brakes)
I am curious about how you achieve such a low price as I calculated what I want to be >3000$. Do you mind sharing a part list?
I am curious about how you achieve such a low price as I calculated what I want to be >3000$. Do you mind sharing a part list?
| Teil | Technischer Name | Rabatt % | Preis (EUR) | Link |
| Rahmen | VB-TT-023 | – | €985.77 | https://www.velobuild.com/products/vb-tt-023-new-t47-carbon-fiber-time-trial-frame-set-disc-integrated-cables |
| Gabel | VB-TT-023 | – | – | – |
| Sattelstütze | VB-TT-023 | – | – | – |
| RD-Hanger | VB-TT-023 | – | – | – |
| Lackierung | VB-TT-023 | – | – | – |
| Versand | VB-TT-023 | – | – | – |
| Teil | Beschreibung | Rabatt % | Preis (EUR) | Link |
| Bremsen links | Riderever Triva Carbon FM | – | €130.00 | https://www.ebay.de/itm/306471258979 |
| Bremsen rechts | Riderever Triva Carbon FM | – | – | https://www.ebay.de/itm/297571773271 |
| Schalthebel Auflieger | 2x SRAM Blips | 10 | €76.05 | https://r2-bike.com/SRAM-eTap-AXS-Wireless-Blips-Zusatz-Schaltknoepfe-2-Stueck |
| Schalthebel Lenker | 2x SRAM Blips | 10 | €76.05 | https://r2-bike.com/SRAM-eTap-AXS-Wireless-Blips-Zusatz-Schaltknoepfe-2-Stueck |
| Blips-Halterung | LEAP TT Mount | 10 | €35.55 | https://r2-bike.com/LEAP-COMPONENTS-Lenkerhalterung-fuer-SRAM-AXS-Wireless-Blips-Schaltknoepfe-TT-Mount-1-Paar |
| Adapter vorne | RIDERACE Flat Mount | – | €3.00 | https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008705051148.html |
| Adapter hinten | RIDERACE Flat Mount | – | €3.00 | https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008705051148.html |
| Kurbel | Magene P515 (20% Cashback) | – | €182.12 | https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005506880823.html |
| Innenlager | ZTTO T47 | – | €25.00 | https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003643193122.html |
| Akku-Ladegerät | SRAM kompatibel | – | €16.99 | https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0DDTP9BF6 |
| Akku | SRAM AXS Akku | 10 | €42.75 | https://r2-bike.com/SRAM-Akku-fuer-RED-eTap-RED-eTap-AXS-Force-eTap-AXS-Eagle-AXS |
| Schaltwerk hinten | SRAM Rival AXS | – | €142.99 | https://www.bike-discount.de/de/sram-rival-etap-axs-2x12-fach-schaltwerk-1 |
| Teil | Beschreibung | Preis (EUR) | Link |
| Kettenblatt | 54T SHIMANO 110BCD Aero | €53.89 | https://pq-bike.com/products/pass-quest-r8-7000-4-aero |
| Lenkerband | vorhanden | – | https://pq-bike.com/products/pass-quest-r8-7000-110bcd-4-bolt-aero-round-narrow-wide-chainring-%E7%9A%84%E5%89%AF%E6%9C%AC?variant=42884049272994 |
| Lenkerend Stopfen | vorhanden | – | – |
| Vorbau / Spacer / Steuersatz / Expander | VB-TT-023 | – | – |
| Sattel | vorhanden | – | – |
| Steckachse vorne | VB-TT-023 | – | – |
| Steckachse hinten | VB-TT-023 | – | – |
| A-Head Kappe | VB-TT-023 | – | – |
| Jagwire Bleed Kit Ersatzteile | Shimano/Magura/Tektro etc. | €17.50–€22.50 | – |
| Jagwire Olive | Formula (1 Stück) | €7.50 | – |
| Jagwire Überwurfmutter | Magura/Shimano M985 | – | – |
| Shimano Insert-Pin | SM-BH90 Hydraulikleitung | – | – |
| Kleinteile | Local bike shop | €1.65 | – |
| ZTTO Cable Routing Damper | Internal Housing | €2.39 | – |
| Flaschenhalter | MTB Lightweight | €4.01 | – |
Where did you get that computer tower/ riser? And what aero bars are those, they look sharp?
Hi mattgolt,
Can you share some pictures of your copilot BTA setup?
I did my own "pad" using a mold of my arms (used plaster for the mold)
Let me tap into the beautiful swarm intelligence - I'm stuck between a Medium and a Large.I'm 182, shorter legs than you and went for a M. I'm clearly between the M & the L.
Height: 182.5 cm (approx. 6'0")
Inseam: 88 cm (34.6")
Elbow to wrist: 28cm
so I am all leg, no torso.
Let me tap into the beautiful swarm intelligence - I'm stuck between a Medium and a Large.
Height: 182.5 cm (approx. 6'0")
Inseam: 88 cm (34.6")
Elbow to wrist: 28cm
so I am all leg, no torso.
Currently riding a LCR017 in 56 with 380/90.
I experience light lower back pain after 4-5 hours of riding. So the reach of 396.4mm is probably just a tad too long.
TT-023 has:
Size M: Stack 501 mm / Reach 411 mm
Size L: Stack 525 mm / Reach 429 mm
Case for Size M:
- 411mm reach is better suited for a shorter torso. But I have no idea how drastically you lean forward on a TT compared to road, negating some of the extra reach.
- The M's lower stack (501mm) offers a higher aerodynamic ceiling. It's always possible to add spacers to go up, but impossible to make the L's 525mm stack lower.
Case for Size L:
- Sizing charts for the Trek Speed Concept place a 182.5cm / 88cm inseam squarely in a Size L. I know these charts can suck, but that much?!
- The already mentioned "when in doubt, size up" philosophy by Dan Empfield to get a more stable, less twitchy frame. (and headtube being more aero than spacers)
For the aerobars, I would probably choose "L", whatever the frame size - it's relatively short already, right?
Given the reduced adjustability in the cockpit, will my short torso stretch me like a cheese string on the size L? Has anyone with similar proportions ridden the TT-023? Particularly interested if anyone can comment on how the bike feels at the extremes of its fit window.
Currently, where I live, its almost impossible to get a bikefit - it would also be ~250$ to either get told "M" or "L".
Thanks!
Reach on TT bikes is different compared to road bikes because of the drastic seat tube angles, your whole body is rotated forward around the bottom bracket.
I'd look at your effective top tube measurments, since that is going to be the true measurment from saddle to stem. which would be close ish to your butt to your shoulders (if you have a 90 deg torso to arm)
I'd say you have to be creative with the cockpit, you have a little bit of reach adjustment to the arm cups and whatver stack you can get with the spacers. Any major reach adjustments you'd probably need to have a plate made.
Following up after replacing the stock stem with the Vision Metron Snakebite system. It’s been great so far, pictures of how I routed the cables attached (you need spacers and I cut them). Thanks to Nikko for his help.
On frame box from Matt Golt (thank you). BTA system, Blip mounts ect are from https://www.wattworx3d.com/
Overall happy with it so far - they did send me a replacement stem as well, just don’t trust it honestly.
Great work!
Good to know that you don't need the original stem. It's a known source of problems, and the cable routing isn't that easy either.
Why did you do the conversion?
Just leaving, some quick pics from my build.It looks dope 😍
Following up after replacing the stock stem with the Vision Metron Snakebite system. It’s been great so far, pictures of how I routed the cables attached (you need spacers and I cut them). Thanks to Nikko for his help.
On frame box from Matt Golt (thank you). BTA system, Blip mounts ect are from https://www.wattworx3d.com/
Overall happy with it so far - they did send me a replacement stem as well, just don’t trust it honestly.
Are there mounts for top tube storage? I dont see any in the pics..
Seems like my ideal bike is one with a mix of features of this frame and the winnow tt119. Really having a hard time deciding between the 2
I'd really like 2 standard bottle mounts in the tringle for training, tool storage for racing, and bta mounts. Something that supports an upgraded cockpit in the future with Profile design or tririg.
That’s a a pretty cool paint job, how did you achieve that effect?
Nice!
What BTA system is that? Interested in the rails/botlecage-extender-adapter-thing (not sure what the name is, where you bolt the cage to and has the integrated computer mount). Also, what cages are that? Look like Gorilla XT's (imo the best cages for BTA solutions).
I followed the steps explained in youtube videos.
It looks like you can't share the links here but the 2 video titles are : "Crystal FX Bike Paint With Spray Cans Only" and "(ASMR)How is it done? Crystal FX + Chameleon Bike Paint"
It's time consuming but it's rewarding to do it yourself
I will also print @mattgolt rear bottle holder and toolbox (if it fits size S frame).
Wheelset: Serenade 80/75 Wavy wheels with carbon spokes
It doesn't fit size S, sorry. I haven't had time to design a parametric version yet :-X
The link in your spreadsheet is for 60/55mm wheelset. How do you get 80/75mm?
Have also build up a Velobuild TT and did the IM Italy with it. Cant complain at all.
Sadly already sold it last week but ne next build will come soon
@sanopit, maybe my BTA Setup could be useful for your thoughts on how to handle this
The Winow bars are a 1:1 copy to the FastTT ones which are seen all over the place.
Also a guy I know who does custom aero cockpits for the Triathlon Pros told me that this is one of the best cheap aero options to add on your TT.
I had the bike unbranded at first but then bought the decal set and liked it better.
The Winow bars are a 1:1 copy to the FastTT ones which are seen all over the place.
Also a guy I know who does custom aero cockpits for the Triathlon Pros told me that this is one of the best cheap aero options to add on your TT.
Did the 180k in 4:45h, but with a very low effort (177W. / 190W NP), partly because of that crazy drafting which was all over the place, on second loop.
The tire was set up correctly before the competition. After doing the pictures and flipping through it I also saw that beginners mistake and changed.
It is just the Extensions from winow
I asked Velobuild for longer screws and a double set of spacers, then I took that horizontal metal Plate and cut everything away which I dont need.
After that I installed on both sides 2*15 degree angled spacer from profile design and opened the screw holes with a small rotary tool on the extensions to fit m6 screws.
Worked out fine, and is very stable. Nevertheless I also used stainless steel screws from a local shop for everything and put some Loctite on when installing.
I had the bike unbranded at first but then bought the decal set and liked it better.
The Winow bars are a 1:1 copy to the FastTT ones which are seen all over the place.
Also a guy I know who does custom aero cockpits for the Triathlon Pros told me that this is one of the best cheap aero options to add on your TT.
Did the 180k in 4:45h, but with a very low effort (177W. / 190W NP), partly because of that crazy drafting which was all over the place, on second loop.
The tire was set up correctly before the competition. After doing the pictures and flipping through it I also saw that beginners mistake and changed.
I had a Custom 3d-printed Aero onepiece as the Cockpit from prints4watts before, so hard to compete against that. But in comparison with the Fake Vision from Velobuild or other Standard extensions they are a Great bargain.
Also I would assume that I can Ride a very narrow setup, also with the BTA filling the whole room behind my Arms which is a huge positive impact on aerodynamics. Also the 30 degree angle helps for a good air Flow over the helmet and down
Have also build up a Velobuild TT and did the IM Italy with it. Cant complain at all.
Sadly already sold it last week but ne next build will come soon
@sanopit, maybe my BTA Setup could be useful for your thoughts on how to handle this
Just got my frame in size L. Has anyone had to chase the bottom bracket threads on their frame? I cant get a SRAM DUB T47 to thread in more than a mm or so by hand. The threads look a bit rough, but could probably convince it to go in with a bit of torque, just dont want to risk damaging the threads.i have the exact same bb, easy to install even by hand
Im using this bb: https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/bb-dub-t47-a1 in 85.5mm
Also the mounted Winow Bars enabled very good control even with that very narrow setup I rode.
Yo yo yo
3D printable box version 2 is out! Took some suggestions from the forum into consideration, so here you go if anyone wants it. Main improvments:
- Better fit to the frame, as I took some time to model the geometry of the frame
- Can be used with an aero bottleholder in the frame
- Lid is held on with a pin (because I lost the lid of the old box several times ::) )
Link to new box: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7073969 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7073969)
Happy to take input for version 3 from all of you!
i have the exact same bb, easy to install even by hand
I haven't seen it mentioned throughout this thread...is anyone running a different basebar than the stock one?
I'm eyeing this bike and thinking of asking Chris for just the frame and fork and getting the full Winow HB052 cockpit. The Winow basebar looks so much better, I like that it can be flipped to have a positive rise, and it looks like it has a shorter reach than the VB stock basebar. Appears that it would fit with the VB stem.
I do. My HB052 is just on the way...I hope it will arrive in one week.
Awesome! Can you post some pictures of the HB052 cockpit on your VB when built? You're going to use the stock VB stem?Yeah, when I installed it, I can post some pics. And Yeah, I will use the stock stem.
Yeah, when I installed it, I can post some pics. And Yeah, I will use the stock stem.
People in this thread using Riderever triva, what brake fluid are we supposed to use with it? And what fitting if I want to resize the brake hoses?
Maybe a noob question, but it's the 1st time i want to build a bike.
About the BB, i saw it's a T47 -> this is ok
But about the crankset, are they all compatible ? at the moment the BB have the right diameter
When all compatible i mean shimano, rotor, sram etc
thanks
I started to assemble my frame. There is some kind of wobble at the front. Did I do something wrong? No amount of pulling on the tube makes the play disappear.
Thanks in advance.
Have you installed this part? You put it over the fork and it is for the brake pipes.
People in this thread using Riderever triva, what brake fluid are we supposed to use with it? And what fitting if I want to resize the brake hoses?
Thanks
Yes I did,
I put the this part above the top bearing.
Maybe you haven't set the headset right? It seems it is too loose.
Hi, for the Velobuild TT frame, you need to install a T47 bottom bracket without cups, because the shell there is already wide.
Then, just buy the one with the correct internal diameter for the crankset you’ll be using:
Shimano: 24 mm
SRAM AXS: 29 mm
etc.
I started to assemble my frame. There is some kind of wobble at the front. Did I do something wrong? No amount of pulling on the tube makes the play disappear.
Thanks in advance.
Did you cut the steerer tube to the correct height? I’m asking because the Velobuild stem is quite unusual, and the cut usually needs to be made slightly lower than normal.
Otherwise, when you tighten the top cap, it will touch the compression plug and won’t be able to remove the play in the system.
Check if that might be the issue.
Normally, the cut should be made at the height of the upper bolt of the stem, but since this stem is angled, if you cut it there, you won’t be able to tighten the system properly and remove the play.
I read this whole thread as I was deciding on my new TT bike last winter, and it convinced me to order. My previous TT bike was a used 2011 Garneau Gennix T1 Large, and I was looking to be more comfortable for my first full Ironman in Ottawa this past summer - more adjustability in the front end and bigger tire clearance. I am 5’8” (173cm), 155-160lb (70-72kg), and went with a large frame for more reach/stack since that fits me best. I did get a bike fit on the Garneau, (and the Velobuild once it arrived), and the fitter agreed that a large frame is right for me.
The order process was great, got them to add the 2 bolt holes on the top tube for a bento box (though I have not used them yet). Went for a black/white paint scheme and added my name in the paint at the seatpost. This was the 2nd frame I’d built from scratch (first one was a custom drop bar titanium mountain bike from Waltly Ti), but I’ve been doing my own maintenance on my bikes for a while. The build was very straightforward, with the usual difficulties of fully internal cable routing. I did crack the stem as I was tightening to the recommended torque (5Nm), and Chris from Velobuild sent out a new one – though I don’t trust it anymore, so I’m looking for other options now that I’m done racing for the year.
Parts List:
Frame: Velobuild TT-023 Large
TT Bars: Included with frame, but I added a custom 3D printed extension off the back that replaces the (too) soft yellow foam over the screws and makes a closed back for the elbow. Also adds a bit more length to the extensions which I found I needed. Custom 3D printed SRAM wireless blip holders. Textured heat-shrink for the grips, as I’ve seen in a few posts in this thread
Stack Angle: Custom machined aluminum block for additional 9 degree angle
Base Plate/Bridge: Custom machined aluminum bridge for a bit more reach and a BTA bottle mount
Arm pads: CeeGees 10mm TriRig Scoops Ultimate SL for full padding along the forearms
Garmin Mount: Custom 3D Printed mount that fits just between the bars at the front. Very large platform zip-tied to the bars, covering most of the area between them.
Brakes: RideRever Triva
Rotors: Shimano Ultegra
Shifters: SRAM Wireless Blips
Bottom Bracket: Token Steel Bearing T47 Threaded BB 47mm for 24mm cranks
Crankset: 160mm XCadey 24mm spindle
Power Meter Spider: XCadey XPower-S Gen 2 110BCD-4S
Pedals: Shimano 105
Chainring: 1x 54T Pass Quest
Chain: SRAM Force with Silca wax
Cassette: SRAM Apex XPLR 12 speed 11-44T
Derailleur: SRAM Force D2 12 speed XPLR
Wheelset: Yoeleo SAT C88 DB PRO NxT SL2
Tires: Continental Aero 111 29mm on front, and GP5000 30mm on rear
Disc Cover: ABS Sheet with electrical tape and zip ties
Aero Bottle: Canyon 650mL Fuel bottle, Fidlock magnetic mount
Toolbox: Custom 3D Printed box fitting the aero bottle and the frame. Inside I fit my pump, tupe, plugs, extra tubeless valve parts, multi-tool, hex keys, tire levers. Take the top cover off, and pull out an insert with slots for all the individual tools.
Saddle: Ergon SR Tri Front (not settled on this yet, might tri that ONIRII 3D printed TT saddle)
BTS Bottle Holder: For me, the 2nd seatpost bottle mount hole is hidden inside the frame, so I spent some time to come up with a much better solution. Custom design – yes, it fits within the 30x30cm box rule, but it is a little heavy (~700g, but I’m working on improving that). 2x1L Bottles face forwards so there is much less risk of ejecting. They are also quicker to remove since you don’t need elastics on them to keep them in, and they are much easier to reach. I haven’t done aero testing, but it definitely looks fast – the goal was to have then follow the curve of my back. The pictures don’t show it, but the bottle also angle outwards for easier access since you reach around the side of your body, not directly over your back (and maybe helps with aero as well)
Ride Review:
I haven’t seen anyone else put an XLPR groupset on a 1x TT bike – this forum seems to be the place for unconventional builds though - I think it works great! I am not too picky about cadence, generally average about 95rpm in races. This bike is quick, it just wants to go fast (2nd fastest bike split at IM Ottawa this year). Liquid nutrition for my races, carrying up to 3.65L on the bike and grabbing water from aid stations (possibly more with a different front hydration setup). Much more comfortable than my previous TT bike as well, but there are many factors that go into that (tires, fit, saddle, etc.). On windy days, the deep front wheel gets blown around a bit, but that’s entirely expected.
The headset bearings seem to have rusted after my IM – sitting in T2 all day with sticky carb drink maybe did it. I’ll be replacing with higher quality stainless steel bearings when I replace the stem.
If anyone is interested in the custom parts I’ve made, let me know – I’ve seen a few people in other posts asking about angled spacers (I have been considering starting an online store)! I’m happy to share the files for the 3D printed parts, but they are in constant revision, so I’d have to lock down a design.
I read this whole thread as I was deciding on my new TT bike last winter, and it convinced me to order. My previous TT bike was a used 2011 Garneau Gennix T1 Large, and I was looking to be more comfortable for my first full Ironman in Ottawa this past summer - more adjustability in the front end and bigger tire clearance. I am 5’8” (173cm), 155-160lb (70-72kg), and went with a large frame for more reach/stack since that fits me best. I did get a bike fit on the Garneau, (and the Velobuild once it arrived), and the fitter agreed that a large frame is right for me.
The order process was great, got them to add the 2 bolt holes on the top tube for a bento box (though I have not used them yet). Went for a black/white paint scheme and added my name in the paint at the seatpost. This was the 2nd frame I’d built from scratch (first one was a custom drop bar titanium mountain bike from Waltly Ti), but I’ve been doing my own maintenance on my bikes for a while. The build was very straightforward, with the usual difficulties of fully internal cable routing. I did crack the stem as I was tightening to the recommended torque (5Nm), and Chris from Velobuild sent out a new one – though I don’t trust it anymore, so I’m looking for other options now that I’m done racing for the year.
Parts List:
Frame: Velobuild TT-023 Large
TT Bars: Included with frame, but I added a custom 3D printed extension off the back that replaces the (too) soft yellow foam over the screws and makes a closed back for the elbow. Also adds a bit more length to the extensions which I found I needed. Custom 3D printed SRAM wireless blip holders. Textured heat-shrink for the grips, as I’ve seen in a few posts in this thread
Stack Angle: Custom machined aluminum block for additional 9 degree angle
Base Plate/Bridge: Custom machined aluminum bridge for a bit more reach and a BTA bottle mount
Arm pads: CeeGees 10mm TriRig Scoops Ultimate SL for full padding along the forearms
Garmin Mount: Custom 3D Printed mount that fits just between the bars at the front. Very large platform zip-tied to the bars, covering most of the area between them.
Brakes: RideRever Triva
Rotors: Shimano Ultegra
Shifters: SRAM Wireless Blips
Bottom Bracket: Token Steel Bearing T47 Threaded BB 47mm for 24mm cranks
Crankset: 160mm XCadey 24mm spindle
Power Meter Spider: XCadey XPower-S Gen 2 110BCD-4S
Pedals: Shimano 105
Chainring: 1x 54T Pass Quest
Chain: SRAM Force with Silca wax
Cassette: SRAM Apex XPLR 12 speed 11-44T
Derailleur: SRAM Force D2 12 speed XPLR
Wheelset: Yoeleo SAT C88 DB PRO NxT SL2
Tires: Continental Aero 111 29mm on front, and GP5000 30mm on rear
Disc Cover: ABS Sheet with electrical tape and zip ties
Aero Bottle: Canyon 650mL Fuel bottle, Fidlock magnetic mount
Toolbox: Custom 3D Printed box fitting the aero bottle and the frame. Inside I fit my pump, tupe, plugs, extra tubeless valve parts, multi-tool, hex keys, tire levers. Take the top cover off, and pull out an insert with slots for all the individual tools.
Saddle: Ergon SR Tri Front (not settled on this yet, might tri that ONIRII 3D printed TT saddle)
BTS Bottle Holder: For me, the 2nd seatpost bottle mount hole is hidden inside the frame, so I spent some time to come up with a much better solution. Custom design – yes, it fits within the 30x30cm box rule, but it is a little heavy (~700g, but I’m working on improving that). 2x1L Bottles face forwards so there is much less risk of ejecting. They are also quicker to remove since you don’t need elastics on them to keep them in, and they are much easier to reach. I haven’t done aero testing, but it definitely looks fast – the goal was to have then follow the curve of my back. The pictures don’t show it, but the bottle also angle outwards for easier access since you reach around the side of your body, not directly over your back (and maybe helps with aero as well)
Ride Review:
I haven’t seen anyone else put an XLPR groupset on a 1x TT bike – this forum seems to be the place for unconventional builds though - I think it works great! I am not too picky about cadence, generally average about 95rpm in races. This bike is quick, it just wants to go fast (2nd fastest bike split at IM Ottawa this year). Liquid nutrition for my races, carrying up to 3.65L on the bike and grabbing water from aid stations (possibly more with a different front hydration setup). Much more comfortable than my previous TT bike as well, but there are many factors that go into that (tires, fit, saddle, etc.). On windy days, the deep front wheel gets blown around a bit, but that’s entirely expected.
The headset bearings seem to have rusted after my IM – sitting in T2 all day with sticky carb drink maybe did it. I’ll be replacing with higher quality stainless steel bearings when I replace the stem.
If anyone is interested in the custom parts I’ve made, let me know – I’ve seen a few people in other posts asking about angled spacers (I have been considering starting an online store)! I’m happy to share the files for the 3D printed parts, but they are in constant revision, so I’d have to lock down a design.
I was quite sure I would go with a medium but I’m a touch taller than you. What’s your inseam?I'm 172cm tall with an inseam of 82cm, so I have a frame size M. Three independent AIs also recommended size M for me.
Here's a few more pictures of the cockpit and tool box.Dude, I’m so impressed by that level of ingenuity.
Inseam is 82cm.
Saddle height is 73cm from bottom bracket to the 'Biomechanical Reference Line' on the Ergon saddle (roughly 10cm back from the nose of the saddle).
And here are some files. I got the bridge and the angle piece made from 6061-T6 aluminum with a black hard-anodized finish.
The bridge has a variety of mounting holes, on a slightly different pattern than the original bridge. I also pre-angled the mounting pattern inwards by 1 degree to get my hands a little closer together.
The angle piece requires flat-head M5 bolts which attach the angle piece to the bridge before being attached to the base bars.
Flat 90 degree SRAM wireless blip mounts: https://www.printables.com/model/1475910-wireless-blip-holder-for-time-trial-and-triathlon (https://www.printables.com/model/1475910-wireless-blip-holder-for-time-trial-and-triathlon)
Tool box for Large frame: https://www.printables.com/model/1475920-frame-tool-box-for-velobuild-tt-023-triathlon-bike (https://www.printables.com/model/1475920-frame-tool-box-for-velobuild-tt-023-triathlon-bike)
Closed back elbow pad extensions: https://www.printables.com/model/1475931-closed-back-elbow-pad-extensions-for-velobuild-tt (https://www.printables.com/model/1475931-closed-back-elbow-pad-extensions-for-velobuild-tt)
I haven’t seen anyone else put an XLPR groupset on a 1x TT bike – this forum seems to be the place for unconventional builds though - I think it works great! I am not too picky about cadence, generally average about 95rpm in races.
I quote your post regarding gearing because I see very few people talking about this subject here, mostly I guess, because TTers like their gear gaps small so it won't impact cadence. Your aproach is very similar to mine: SRAM XPLR 1x12.
I guess a 10-36T cassette would be ideal, same range as shimano with controlled gaps, and since XPLR derailleurs can manage 10-36 cassettes, best of two worlds. I intend to keep an eye on the app for gear usage, and then tune the chainring size so I can stay most of the time on the middle of the cassette for better efficiency.
I do. My HB052 is just on the way...I hope it will arrive in one week.
Have you received the bar yet?
And here are some files. I got the bridge and the angle piece made from 6061-T6 aluminum with a black hard-anodized finish.
Yeah. Just forgot to post it. Busy these days.
Thank you for posting your designs and your bike’s other modifications.
I am curious, what was your bike’s weight before and after the Winow cockpit? I am talking to Chris about a very similar setup.
Yeah. Just forgot to post it. Busy these days.
Looks nice! Is that with the original stem or one from Winow?
If you meant me, I can't tell ya. Because I am still building it up, and have never installled the original one. But I just from my feeling, the alu spacers could be a bit lighter than the original one.
I can tell you the final weight not before 16.12., because first fitting, then finish building up. That the problem with Shimano Di2 🤷🏼♂️
i'm pretty sure of everything, but i don't understand why all the crankset are specified "BB wide 68/70mm", but the velobuild need a 86.5mm :oFor Cransket 52/36 - shimano RS510 Shimano recomended BB-RS501 with Threaded bottom bracket shell width (mm) 68/70mm or BB-RS501-PB with Press-Fit bottom bracket shell width (mm) 86.5 mm. T47 86.5 will be compatible, IMHO.
Do you think this build can work ?
As I previously mentionned, i want a double crankset + manual shifters rather than electronic (budget build)
i'm pretty sure of everything, but i don't understand why all the crankset are specified "BB wide 68/70mm", but the velobuild need a 86.5mm :o
Frame Velobuild TT023 950,00 €
Personal paint 60,00 €
Sending 90,00 €
Wheels superteam 60/88mm 455,00 €
TPU 25,00 €
Tyre continental GP5000 83,00 €
Front brake - Trivia 75,00 €
Rear brake - Trivia 65,00 €
Brake plate 10,00 €
Needle HFA309 5,00 €
Olive HFA505 4,00 €
Connector HFA403 8,00 €
Disc Shimano 20,00 €
Rear derailleur - shimano 105 R7000 50,00 €
Front derailleur - shimano 105 R7000 32,00 €
Shifters bar end dura ace 2x11 90,00 €
Cransket 52/36 - shimano RS510 110,00 €
BB ZTTO T47 50,00 €
Chain shimano 20,00 €
Cassette sunrace 11-36 50,00 €
2 252,00 €
I can't recommend a mechanical gear shift in this frame.
The bends are much too extreme. I had to heat the brake line slightly, especially on the handlebars and stem, so that it could be bent.
I can't imagine that the shifting performance won't suffer as a result.
Besides, you won't have any gears on the basebar, which can be a real disadvantage depending on the route.
You're riding with a double front, so you want small gear jumps. Are you also prepared to stop shifting on climbs because you're reaching for the base bar?
A used AXs rear derailleur costs €80-100. The front derailleur costs €60-80. Wireless blips cost €75 per pair. That's well within your budget.
Oh, I forgot the batteries: €25-40 each.
What’s the weight of your frame? I don’t trust the website’s listed weights.
Please don't be offended, but I really don't feel like taking everything apart again. The weight should be about right, though.
Yup I eard previously that mecanical is not ideal, but not impossible :-X
on the velobuild website there is a picture of this frame with mecanical, so i can assume that it's ok...
About the gears only on the drop bar, I know it's far to be the best option
I just find and bought used full 105 + brake lever + full brake TRP + gear change -> 350e, i don't think there is cheaper option :-*
Tomorrow I´ll be receiving my frame, thanks to everyone who has posted in this thread, it has been very helpful.
I ordered a custom painted frame last month, inspired on the McLaren F1 Marlboro livery (will further customize with stickers)
I will be riding a 1x12 setup, this are the main components:
Rear Derailleur: Sram Force with Blips
Chainring: 54T narrow wide from Ali
Cassette: 11-34 Goldix
Chain: KMC X12
Brakes: Riderever Triva Hydraulic
Wheelset: Serenade 80/75 Wavy wheels with carbon spokes
Cranks + Powermetes: PES 515 Powermeter
BB: ZTTO T47
Total cost came to $3,655 including shipping and taxes. Here is a detailed list of components and cost breakdown https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VLRYr07odK4a78U5qjvwM58BYk39hgk2h-t_dSA7TFU/edit?usp=sharing (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VLRYr07odK4a78U5qjvwM58BYk39hgk2h-t_dSA7TFU/edit?usp=sharing)
Hello, just finished building my bike. I need to make some adjustments and will be getting a replacement front wheel, as the one I got had a flexible spot.
Hello, just finished building my bike. I need to make some adjustments and will be getting a replacement front wheel, as the one I got had a flexible spot.
Which brake systems do you recommend? I saw in the latest post here that someone used Ride Ever. I don’t know much about it. Can anyone recommend another option?
.
What do you mean by flexible spot? I ordered similar wheels so I would also like to check them upon arrival.
Sick paintjob! I sort of wish you would have conti details on the chainstay though, but I know why you didnt :DThanks!! I wanted to be as close as possible to the late 1980s / early 1990s Mclarens, so Goodyear it is
@sanopit Nice livery! Remind me of F1 meets hydrojets. What’s the total weight of your setup?Thanks! I hope I am as fast as it looks. I dont have a scale right now but will try to weight it soon
When I squeese the wheel with my fingers, it feels flexible and not stiff. And there is a spot that sinks in under load, and makes sound when rolling. I have a video where it is very clear, but I believe you cannot post videos here. (I´m uloading a GIF, dont know if that will work)
I downloaded the gif but it's a static image. I was able to upload video here before.
Hello, just finished building my bike. I need to make some adjustments and will be getting a replacement front wheel, as the one I got had a flexible spot.rotors and font lowkey ruin the build, super ricey and cheap looking
I ended up ordering one from Chris, paying on 11/29/2025. I'll post here when it ships, arrives, and report on how it builds and rides, including weights, modifications, and other details. Hopefully that all helps others on the fence decide if this VB-TT-023 is worth their investment or not.
Where are you shipping to? I'm US based and would love an idea of people's experience with importing and if they were hit with tariffs/duties/taxes to get the package released.
I’m in the USA. I am very anxious about what the duty fee might be for this frame from Velobuild… During AliExpress’ 11/11 sale, I ordered a crankset from Magene’s official store that specifically said “no additional duty”, but then DHL charged me $54 for a $213 crankset. Magene’s official store stopped responding to me the moment I sent them the screenshot from the sales page. Magene is a big store so I don’t believe that it was a “surprise”. I hope Velobuild doesn’t show up with a bill that’s 25% of it’s value…
If you could update, I would appreciate it! I’m really interested in getting one of these, but like you, I’m worried about tariffs.
Where in the US are you? I’m on Long Island.
I'm in Hawaii.
Can anyone confirm that this T47/86 DUB Inboard BB will fit this frame? I believe it will (inboard as opposed to outboard due to the wider 86.5mm frame width stated on VB's website... but I still want to be certain).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176307476330?_skw=T47+inboard+DUB+BB&epid=19034937920&itmmeta=01KC59QB81YN2CV4ZS45CWZS8F&hash=item290cbe976a:g:qdcAAOSw7pdmBGy6&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dLy6zUezuO5R6us3mBXotXpHhWRwK9%2B%2BvUeVq8onTKjqdkfIDL%2F%2BWtiPAYtyjyRrmu8AoZCAeNB8Sp8lOHiwqmkcbLAAhxbqsm5lIbk%2BbQYxc6qlPWPVyC4dtqDTHcEuZhkbpsQQ3xUpMFuZbALDByNUsqXSOqoNiNTYvkcOohAXFAjn8bhdAToxzilSmaxAtXzxmcYw%2F9DwBicfpeEaIDbM%2B56KgxsUffrqMdseiYSnP4lkK5F09%2BrBYOTfhIP4q06s2DoDdEjypZcA3ztx9hTGzAyuH%2FT1MDkMXFkdD0HA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5S03anhZg
Went out for first test ride...
Handlebar slipped (common issue) and clipped brake hoses.
Talked to Chris from Velobuild and told me to get shorter screws (12mm including bold head instead of the ones that came with the bike which are 20mm including bolt head, 15mm without bolt head) so stem can clamp handlebar better.
Has anyone tried this or how have you prevented handelbar from turning?
Will try getting the screws and will update
I used a lot of grip paste and tightened the screws meticulously and evenly (4.5 Nm, I think).
After that, I had no more problems.
Out of interest: how can shorter screws help it to fit better?
Went out for first test ride...
Handlebar slipped (common issue) and clipped brake hoses.
Talked to Chris from Velobuild and told me to get shorter screws (12mm including bold head instead of the ones that came with the bike which are 20mm including bolt head, 15mm without bolt head) so stem can clamp handlebar better.
Has anyone tried this or how have you prevented handelbar from turning?
Will try getting the screws and will update
I will be adding more grip paste, screws are already tightened to almost 5Nm and still slipping.
According to Chris, the longer screw in the front two hole limits how much you can tighten since it tops with the carbon as the hole is not that big. I'm not sure if it works, but I guess i have to try
My mechanic initially complained about the poor quality of the stem – there wasn't enough clearance for proper clamping of the handlebars – the front jaws closed without any clearance.
I’m in the USA. I am very anxious about what the duty fee might be for this frame from Velobuild… During AliExpress’ 11/11 sale, I ordered a crankset from Magene’s official store that specifically said “no additional duty”, but then DHL charged me $54 for a $213 crankset. Magene’s official store stopped responding to me the moment I sent them the screenshot from the sales page. Magene is a big store so I don’t believe that it was a “surprise”. I hope Velobuild doesn’t show up with a bill that’s 25% of it’s value…
I did crack the stem as I was tightening to the recommended torque (5Nm), and Chris from Velobuild sent out a new one – though I don’t trust it anymore, so I’m looking for other options now that I’m done racing for the year.
Just put in an order for a size medium frameset in red cracked ice, just like the one with the Trek logos all over it. Opted to not get the seatpost painted. Going sram red 1x, winow extensions, hunt disc, yoeleo front, panda podium aero bottles, and a diy BTA. Excited to build it up, get the weights, and then rip it around.
Are you going with Sram xplr 13sp?Whatever the previous generation of 12 speed sram red axs is. I think its the D1 version.
I received my order today on 12/26 here in Hawaii, just five days after it was shipped from Chris. The tracking number provided was EMS, but UPS ended up delivering it. I had to pay $79.00 of import duty to the UPS delivery driver, which I did from my phone online and he was able to verify from his handheld UPS device.
The package arrived safely without any damage. So far, so good. I have another bike on the bench at the moment, but next week I’ll get into the build. I plan on including weights and measurements of all parts. I’ll share my build log and riding impressions.
Chris has been exemplary to work with. Tell him Mr. Enos sent you.
(http://)
Here's a few more pictures of the cockpit and tool box.
Inseam is 82cm.
Saddle height is 73cm from bottom bracket to the 'Biomechanical Reference Line' on the Ergon saddle (roughly 10cm back from the nose of the saddle).
Hi, can you confirm that the rd hanger is udh? Need a TT frame that can run 13sp sram.
Never heard that the Velobuild TT-023 is UDH, there's no such info on their website...
Only ones I know are confirmed UDH: the ICAN TT-017, the Avenger TM7, Winow TT-129 and the newer TT917 from TanTan (TT914 from TanTan seems like the 129 from Winow...)
Hi, I have my velobuild with the original extensions, and I bought the winow... now I have to buy the angled plate because winow extenions are flat. The original ones have some angle. Do you or anyone know the angle that the original ones have?
They don’t mention anything anywhere that it’s a udh. Although their support confirmed that it has a udh and it looks like a udh from pictures, but I figured I’d ask someone who owns it to confirm. I already have 13s sram components.have it and can confirm its udh
Oh and one I forgot: Those of you who got the winow bars or extension, do you think it makes a huge difference? And would it be a big PITA to switch it out later? (I'm assuming it is)
Hey peeps :D
Been reading this thread for quite some time and I think it's time to get serious about building my own bike :D So much useful information here, thank you all for posting/sharing!
I have quite a few questions and I thought you might be able to help.
First of all, I'm about 172cm (5'8"-ish) tall- ~78cm inseam. I was very sure about ordering in a size S at first but after reading through some of your choices, I'm quite unsure about it. Of course you don't know my other measurements, but if maybe somebody could give some inputs I'd be incredibly happy (don't want to order the wrong size xD)
Second (less frame specific), I don't really know what depth wheel would be optimal. I'd be racing rolling to hilly triathlons and am quite light myself, so worried about winds and weight. I was thinking about 60mm, is that reasonable (SAT C60 DB PRO NxT SL2 maybe :D)
Third, and here I'm completely lost in the best way possible: The paint of the bike frame. I was quite sure about ordering a chameleon color, but hot diggity dog, the ice break color way looks so sick in some pictures posted here! Has anybody ordered one in purple or white or blue and could tell me if they think it's worth it?
Thank you again for all the information already posted here, helping me so much, really excited about this project!
Also have some new TT23 bikes in the Pipeline which I am currently Finishing
Hello again,
Defintely Go with size S Frame I am 1,73 with 80 inseam and S was Perfect
I ran the 82mm Front and Disc Wheel in the back and hab no Wind Problems at all. Very stabile bike and no need to worry about. If you want to make sure to be Safe on very Windy days get a cheap low Profile Front Wheel as spare.
The winow Cockpit is definetly a good and valuble add-on. More stabiliy due to higher sides at the arm Cups and way more Aero than Standard.
In regard to the colour See the picture above. I have now Chamäleon Black, chameloen White and iced red metallic. Im my opinion White chameleon is very Nice. It comes with a Little Pearlescents / Pearl White effect.
Iced red also beautiful, the black looks nice but has a Little Bit of a structure with it, that makes it not perfectly even.
The winow Cockpit is definetly a good and valuble add-on. More stabiliy due to higher sides at the arm Cups and way more Aero than Standard.
Hey peeps :D
Been reading this thread for quite some time and I think it's time to get serious about building my own bike :D So much useful information here, thank you all for posting/sharing!
I have quite a few questions and I thought you might be able to help.
First of all, I'm about 172cm (5'8"-ish) tall- ~78cm inseam. I was very sure about ordering in a size S at first but after reading through some of your choices, I'm quite unsure about it. Of course you don't know my other measurements, but if maybe somebody could give some inputs I'd be incredibly happy (don't want to order the wrong size xD)
Second (less frame specific), I don't really know what depth wheel would be optimal. I'd be racing rolling to hilly triathlons and am quite light myself, so worried about winds and weight. I was thinking about 60mm, is that reasonable (SAT C60 DB PRO NxT SL2 maybe :D)
Third, and here I'm completely lost in the best way possible: The paint of the bike frame. I was quite sure about ordering a chameleon color, but hot diggity dog, the ice break color way looks so sick in some pictures posted here! Has anybody ordered one in purple or white or blue and could tell me if they think it's worth it?
Thank you again for all the information already posted here, helping me so much, really excited about this project!
Oh and one I forgot: Those of you who got the winow bars or extension, do you think it makes a huge difference? And would it be a big PITA to switch it out later? (I'm assuming it is)
Why the Trek branding? Stuff like this is what gives Chinese manufacturers a bad wrap.
Answering your other questions, my bike has a purple chameleon paint job (the color shift is quite subtle), and I’m really happy with the result.
You’ll definitely need the angled spacers, because the original aerobars are 15° while the Winow ones are 0°. The blocks haven’t arrived yet, so I haven’t set them up, but since I’m running a Shimano Di2 system (which has a fair amount of cabling), I don't think the swap will be too difficult.
Thank you for sharing, very helpful! With spacers do you mean the bracket/block thingy, or the spacer shaped one for like 10$?
The winow Cockpit is definetly a good and valuble add-on. More stabiliy due to higher sides at the arm Cups and way more Aero than Standard.
I understand your point that is a "wrong" pciture but I really do like the optics of it. Having nothing on it looks a little empty and the logos are already there...
yeah I was more worried about weight actually (I know, I know, it's a TT bike, weight barely matters, but I'm still looking at over 2k of elevation in 180km). Thinking about going higher than 60mm now for sure :)
Guys, can you tell me who installed the systems with the di2 battery, how did you fix it? Maybe there is some kind of 3d printable model to keep the battery in the seatpost, or some other options.I just foampad the battery and put it into the seatpost. Nothing moved there.
So far, I've only ordered a frame, I'm choosing a groupset, I'm leaning towards the LTWOO eRX-TT, but I don't know if I can fix the battery from it inside.
Does anybody know (or could measure) the (preferably inner) diameter of the aerobar (extensions)? Need to know because I have to choose when buying the Leap Blip holders xD
Is it also similar to the Winow ones if I'd want to upgrade? :)
Hi. I don´t know the diameter but I´m using the Leap TT Sram blip holders in this aerobars with no problems.
Hi. I don´t know the diameter but I´m using the Leap TT Sram blip holders in this aerobars with no problems.
I once asked if there was a price difference without the bar and there was. Maybe $60 less? This was towards the end of last year.
Still having problems with the front end on my bike. Chris sent a new alloy stem, but I still have the same problems- even torqued to spec the handlebars can be turned. Also, the fork rocks back and forth like you can see in the video. Has anyone else run into this or have any ideas for how to fix it? Thanks!
You have the expander plug in and tighten? Starting with the easy check
When you tighten you stem, the end don’t touch each other, right?
You use carbon paste between fork tube and stem?
Since you have an aluminum stem and with the expander plug in place, I personnaly wouldn’t hesitate to increase torque on tightening screws a little; I am no bike mechanic so maybe wait one or two others to comment first lol
Did you clean the steerer tube with alcohol/degreaser before installing the stem? In my case, a little grease from the headset bearing always got onto the steerer tube, and that's why the stem slipped.
Yeah, I actually tried a different expander plug but still no change. The stem bolts are torqued to 8 Nm, which was the max recommended.I am not mechanic but I don’t see the issue with upping the torque 0.5Nm. The fork tube is sandwiched and wont collapse. If you have head stem bolt going into a but rather than threding in the stem itself, I would give it a go. Do you tighten both to 8Nm one after another or do a bit of back and forth between the 2 to get to 8 on both?
Yeah, the steerer tube is clean.
Because you said it was possible I felt okay to ask, he said he could take off $120, which is quite a lot imo :D
Just put in my order, really excited for the whole build :) will try to post a picture once I'm done, but could take quite some time ;D
Thank you everyone for helping!
Just broke my rear wheel thru axle at the thread. I will buy a new udh hanger but I am bit confused with the dimensions of the thru axle, it is written : 164mm M12*1.5*L16 but the website mention: M12*1.5*163mm. I also read that it is standard 142x12 mm.
Which one is it? are these the same? Where could I find one?
thanks in advance.
Wow! That's good to know. Did you go for custom paint?
This is the full list of what I bougth to build my bike:
Frame: Velobuild TT-023 U$1100
Wheels: Velobuild Wave 60-25 U$490
BB: Kactus Ceramic SKF U$73
Crankset: Rockbross carbon U$190
Powermeter: Xcadey spider U$330
Chainring: PassQuest aero 52T U$55
Rear D: SRAM RED axs U$350
Cassette: SRAM RED 10-28 U$225
Brakes: TRP HD T-910 U$300
Chain: SRAM RED axs 12s U$60
Shifters: SRAM blips x4 U$200
Disc Rotors: ENLEE 140mm U$45
Tires (for training): Pirelli Pzero 26 U$110
TOTAL (without shipping and customs): U$3.530
Doneeee. Took longer than expected as I fiddled a lot with the cockpit. Very happy overall but the list of wanted/unnecessary updates is long
Hey all, I’m piecing together the parts for my first ever TT bike - I’ve done so much research (thanks to this forum) but still not 100% sure of compatibility and whether or not I’m getting the most bang for my buck?
Appreciate any advice on the below build.
Total Price $4,644 (AUD).
Use case will primarily be for local sprints/olympics and 70.3s and the rare (maybe 1 every couple of years 140.6s)
Keen to know:
Any compatibility issues or just poor decisions
Any easy/cheap upgrades or downgrades (note, I want SRAM wireless shifting so pretty set on that)
Missing any FUNDAMENTAL components
Once I buy everything, plan is to have it professionally assembled by a shop who offer full build (hopefully they’ll let me watch - i’d love to learn, and im not comfortable doing things like brake installations, bleeding, cable cutting etc.)
All prices are AUD.
Frame - VeloBuild VB-TT-023 including integrated cockpit/tri bars - $1,700.00
Cassette - SRAM Rival XG-1250 D1 10-36 12sp - $184.00
Chainring - 50T PASS QUEST 110BCD AXS (4-bolt AERO) Round Narrow Wide Chainring for R92-8100 / 7100 - $80.00
Rear Derailleur - SRAM Force AXS D1 Rear Derailleur 12 Speed - $373.00
SRAM Blips - SRAM eTAP AXS Wireless Blips (Pair) Black - $149.00
Battery - SRAM eTap AXS Battery - $89.00
Charger - SRAM eTap Battery Charger - $69.00
Brakes - TRP TT Hydraulic Brake Lever/Caliper Set 22-24mm Black + 1x FF-5 adapter for 160 front rotor - $646.00
Power Meter - Magene PES P515 Power Meter Set (165mm no chainring) - $425.00
Rims - Elite ENT 2.0 60mm 28mm Steel - $512.00
Tyres - Continental GP5000 S TR Folding Tyre 700x28C - $258.00
Saddle - RYET 3D Printed Bicycle Saddle - $65.00
Chain - SRAM Force D1 12-Speed Chain - $70.00
Bottom Bracket - T47-24I - $19.00
Centrelock Rotors - ZRACE Center Lock Brake Disc Rotor 140/160 - $5.00
Looks good and I dont see any compatibility issues. I'm using the Ryet Saddle on my road bike, but I'm not sure if I'd go with it for a TT position.
Ah didn't even consider that thank you!
Side note, My measurements:
Inseam 81.5cm
Shoulder to wrist bone 53cm
Height 173cm
I'm not sure if i should get S or M? Any idea?
Yes they are way more stable, higher and help to Control the bike better than the Velobuild Fake Visions
Do you find it a little awkward to press the shift button? Love how they look but having the shift be on the brakes seems more ergonomic.
Is there a new alloy stem available? Do you have a link or photo for it?
Yes, it's available. If you check the velobuild website, it's listed in the description. I'll post a photo as soon as I receive the stem.
I recently upgraded my aero bar to the winnow hb052. But now I have the problem where the winnow handlebar are too low and to far for my liking which makes the handling worse.
I dlike to put back the original handlebar but keeping the aerobar themselves. But the spacing between the spacers is different which makes them incompatible.
I could also put the aerobar on the VB plate but then they are not angled and the plate is missing holes for front hydration system.
Anybody came up with a good solution? I saw a random video where the guy just flipped the winnow handlebars. Any success with this?
Thanks!
...can someone pls share th 3d print file for a Shimano battery holder in the seat post of the tt-023?
Many thanks in advance.
Btw… where to put the garmin mount? Any recommendations?
After shortening the fork, I discovered the first problem.
The included expander plug was too long, or was it simply a dirty fork?
The solution: I installed a shorter expander, 26mm instead of 45mm.
After being sold on time trial riding for a while, I wanted to switch from rim brakes to disc brakes.
After reading a lot on this forum, I decided to go for the Velobuild.
I ordered through the Velobuild website after Chris checked the sizing.
I chose a size S.
I'm 176cm tall with an inseam of 80cm.
My saddle height is 70.9mm from the center of the crankset (165mm).
I have quite short legs, and that became apparent when I unpacked it and tried to assemble it.
The seatpost definitely needs to be shortened.
The frame was delivered super fast within 14 days of ordering, and the box was completely intact and undamaged.
After unpacking, I encountered my first setback:
the top tube bolts
I hadn't asked for this, and it wasn't visible in the photos on the website.
I ask Chris about my problem he would change the pictures on the website.
Everything else was very well packed,
and all the parts were complete.
Parts list :
Frame: Velobuild TT size S
Shifters: Sram s900 with leap components
Sram Force E1 Derailleur
Sram blips with leap components
Evosid cranks 165mm with 58t
Sram Force e1 flattop chain
Sram Force e1 10/30
Cema Bottombracket t47
Aerocoach ascalon cockpit extensions
Front Wheel Aerocoach Titan 100mm with Conti TT
Disc Wheel Still looking for it some tips?
I'll mainly use the TT for fast time trials.
The setup will therefore be 1x12.
I started building.
I started by spraying all the bolts black.
This should actually be standard.
After shortening the fork, I discovered the first problem.
The included expander plug was too long, or was it simply a dirty fork?
The solution: I installed a shorter expander, 26mm instead of 45mm.
When I had the carbon stem in my hands, I already had my doubts about its strength.
After reading on the forum, I knew this was a common problem.
After receiving the frame, I immediately emailed Chris to ask why I hadn't received the alloy stem, even though it was listed on the website.
Unfortunately, because of the holidays, this took three weeks to send. Its on my way atm.
I couldnt wait to build this monster ,So I tried the carbon stem.
I did it like this: I applied a thin layer of carbon paste to the base bar.
I tightened the expander bolt 2nm and the top bolts to 5NM, so I could then tighten the bottom bolts according to Chris's advice 5nm
Unfortunately, the stem failed at 2NM and split in two at the front.
I'm glad the aluminum stem is on its way to me.
Fortunately, Chris is easily accessible and acts quickly, which I'm happy about.
I'm waiting for the alloy stem this week so I can continue with this monster.
I can't wait to ride it.
Annyone Else had problems with the carbon stem?
Will be continue..
I encountered the exact same issue, I think the problem is only present with S sized frames, as the headtube is shorter. My steerer tube has a carbon "bridge" inside, so the expander can't be inserted any deeper.
What expander did you buy afterwards? I'll have to get one as well, which is slightly annoying.
Is anyone using the new updated stem? Has it fixed some of the issues people have had?
Also, has anyone imported into the US recently? Were you hit with a lot of extra costs?
Hi, what Leap Aero Grip Shifter size did you order? Thanks!
https://leapcomponents.com/product/sram-aero-disc-brake-grip-shifter/
And here are some files. I got the bridge and the angle piece made from 6061-T6 aluminum with a black hard-anodized finish.
How to fix the stem? Fixed them with 6Nm torque already, but still, a good impulse on the bar, is tilting it slightly the bar slightly
Hey guys, I just finished building my BTA system but now I cannot mount my Garmin. I machined the base plate shared by @ottawabikeparts, a 3d printed 70mm riser and a bottle extender rail from AliExpress.
However, as you can see the pictures, my computer mount is too short to be sandwiched by the cage screws. Does anyone have any recommendations on a longer computer mount or any other way to add my Garmin to the set up.
I contacted Chris with the same problem and told me to use 10-12mm screws for the front of the stem. I cut the screws, as mine were 15mm long, but I would recommend buying new ones.
This worked for me, as it allowed the stem to clamp with better grip the bars.
Thanks. And the torque u were using was still 6Nm? Or did u increased it as a shorter screw is not applying a stronger clamping force or grip?
Any assembly paste in addition?
That plate looks great! If you've got any feedback on it, I'd love to hear.
For a computer mount, I've had a few solutions.
The first one was a 3D printed plate that was zip-tied to the 2 extensions and had a Garmin insert bolted the middle. This got the computer right between my wrists.
Now, I made a much longer bottle rail and a 3D printed mount on the rail with the Garmin insert to attach the computer to.
Note that the rail you have pictured is meant to be supported by a frame underneath (it is used to move bottle mounts up/down a frame), and may move too much and break when hanging a fully loaded bottle off the end like that. The one I designed is much thicker to properly handle the loads and not have a bottle shake loose. I'd also recommend a 'saddle' cage for the upside-down cage where it has the hooks opposite the screws. I use a Topeak one since its the cheapest I found, but there are a few carbon cage options as well.
Happy to share the files if you're interested. I'm also setting up a site to sell some of my custom parts.
Thanks. And the torque u were using was still 6Nm? Or did u increased it as a shorter screw is not applying a stronger clamping force or grip?
Any assembly paste in addition?
1 year Update! 1 year later and same location, with this bike and couldn't be happier. I did some upgrades around the chainring, toolbox and cockpit. Managed to do a 70.3 and actually win a smaller olympic triathlon last year. This year I'll go through a full distance triathlon with the bike. Only issue I had with the frame over the past year was, that water accumulated in it after a wet ride and there is no drain hole at the bottom bracket - I drilled one now hoping it will not crack ;D
My carbon stem gave way at such tightening torques.
I received the Alloy stem from Chris super fast within a few days, and with carbon paste it is tightened to 4nm.
At 2nm, it was already impossible to get any movement out of it at full force, so the fit is perfect.
That plate looks great! If you've got any feedback on it, I'd love to hear.
For a computer mount, I've had a few solutions.
The first one was a 3D printed plate that was zip-tied to the 2 extensions and had a Garmin insert bolted the middle. This got the computer right between my wrists.
Now, I made a much longer bottle rail and a 3D printed mount on the rail with the Garmin insert to attach the computer to.
Note that the rail you have pictured is meant to be supported by a frame underneath (it is used to move bottle mounts up/down a frame), and may move too much and break when hanging a fully loaded bottle off the end like that. The one I designed is much thicker to properly handle the loads and not have a bottle shake loose. I'd also recommend a 'saddle' cage for the upside-down cage where it has the hooks opposite the screws. I use a Topeak one since its the cheapest I found, but there are a few carbon cage options as well.
Happy to share the files if you're interested. I'm also setting up a site to sell some of my custom parts.
Can you show an image of the new Alloy stem?
I also broke my top piece (of the carbon stem) two times.. third one I received, it works fine.. but now I still keep being skeptical :)
If the Alloy stem would be better.. I am tempted to order one separately if that would be possible.
The base plate has worked wonderfully. It has allowed me to get in a more agresivo position since the amount of holes allow for much better adjustment of the bars. Also, being able to move forwards and backwards the BTA system helped me figure out the best setup for me.
As for the rails, yes, I’ve heard theses thin rails for moving ups and down bottles are not sturdy enough for holding a bottle as the amount of force can break them. I had seen the rail from Tririg but getting it to my country makes it almost double its original price.
Your rail looks amazing, and I think I could get it machined at the same place I got the baseplate made.
Thanks to everyone for posting their build and pictures. I've gone ahead and just ordered my bike for a full distance later this year!
How do I get in contact with Chris as I want to order extra spacers and an alloy stem (problems with carbon stem)
What disc wheels are people using? I'm thinking of the Elite Wheels Bundle, due to price, but it looks like they are on backorder.
https://www.elite-wheels.com/product/time-trial-triathlon-wheels-tt-disc-brake-bundle/ (https://www.elite-wheels.com/product/time-trial-triathlon-wheels-tt-disc-brake-bundle/)
Does anyone have any recommendations on what they have used for their builds?
I'm not far off pulling the trigger on purchasing this frame, checked out all the other options and this just feels like the right frame for me. Just need to sort out final colour and costing (Chris has been super helpful answering all my questions), thinking mat black to match the wheels. My build will take a few months as the wheels are going to take a while to build. Hopefully on the road early Jan.
Planning to double sided sticky tape the bento box, not as clean a solution but allows for my ProfileDesign FC35 to be custom mounted in front of it. I plan on running the stock bars, unless my bike fitter says not to.
All the bike builds posted here are nice and clean looking.
Happy with my xmcarbonspeed
Front D65CU-33 rear D78CU-33 T1100 rims 20/20H UD paintless
Black color R506 hubs 20/20H 54T rachets TPI ceramic bearings center lock straight pull for 100*12/142*12 with Shimano HG driver
3.8mm carbon spokes
Thanks, I did take a look, but couldn't see anything on their website - https://xmcarbonspeed.cc/collections/triathlon
Thanks and I have emailed them already :)
Tagoola have also said
Regarding TT wheels, we now have a new model available.
930±40g，36T Ratchet
(Edited for typo)
$620 but with a 1 month lead time.
There’s also DFS. Detail in the attachment
They have a lead time of 10 days.
Would be good to hear what you’re also looking at.
The foam in the armrests is worn out—where can I get new ones?
My Velobuild TT in size M is finished and rides incredibly well – it's lightning fast!
The color is exposed carbon with a glossy clear coat and custom decals (which Velobuild produced for an additional fee and applied under the clear coat).
TRP brakes (with SRAM Blips)
SRAM XPLR rear derailleur (54/10-36)
SRAM Rival E1 Powermeter
ELITE EDGE 2.0 (65mm)
12cm of Spacers
Custom-designed toolbox
AeroCovers on the spacers
BTA for the Velobuild handlebars
All parts are 3D printed.
Do you have the STL for those aerocovers for the spacers?
My Velobuild TT in size M is finished and rides incredibly well – it's lightning fast!
The color is exposed carbon with a glossy clear coat and custom decals (which Velobuild produced for an additional fee and applied under the clear coat).
TRP brakes (with SRAM Blips)
SRAM XPLR rear derailleur (54/10-36)
SRAM Rival E1 Powermeter
ELITE EDGE 2.0 (65mm)
12cm of Spacers
Custom-designed toolbox
AeroCovers on the spacers
BTA for the Velobuild handlebars
All parts are 3D printed.
Can you also customize the toolbox for an S-frame?
My Velobuild TT in size M is finished and rides incredibly well – it's lightning fast!
The color is exposed carbon with a glossy clear coat and custom decals (which Velobuild produced for an additional fee and applied under the clear coat).
TRP brakes (with SRAM Blips)
SRAM XPLR rear derailleur (54/10-36)
SRAM Rival E1 Powermeter
ELITE EDGE 2.0 (65mm)
12cm of Spacers
Custom-designed toolbox
AeroCovers on the spacers
BTA for the Velobuild handlebars
All parts are 3D printed.
Looks amazing! Could you post a top down picture of the cockpit? So we can see the BTA from rider POV?
How much extra did they charge for the decals? I was thinking of doing custom decals as well.
Are you USA based? If so, did you pay tariffs?
Good morning everyone,
coming back here after a few months away from the forum.
My TT was initially built with the original front end but with 9 cm of spacers. Later I bought the Winow aerobar, which looks very similar to the FastTT one. Since they are flat, I also had to buy the angled spacer block from Winow to give them some tilt.
Because my bike is built with Shimano, I currently have some adjustment limitations due to cable length. I still need to decide whether I will disassemble everything and replace the cables, or simply replace the whole groupset.
My frame was purchased in 2024 and the derailleur hanger seems to be the same one used on the VB268 road frame. It does not look like a UDH to me. Has this part been updated on newer versions, or is it actually possible to mount a UDH there? I’m asking because installing a 13-speed SRAM derailleur could be an interesting option.
I’m also open to suggestions for systems/solutions to mount a front hydration setup.
If anyone has questions regarding the bike build or any component, such as the Winow aerobar, feel free to ask!
Hi, thank you.
The decals cost an extra $180.
I'm from Germany and purchased the "Seller Shipping Method" via DPD.
I didn't have to pay any additional fees or taxes.
I'll post more pictures as soon as possible.
I have 13sp sram e1 xplr on this frame. It’s not worth it. The frame is not actually udh compatible whether due to tolerances or design. Just get 12sp.
Thanks! Definitely not going to spend that much extra for decals, glad I know now!
$620 but with a 1 month lead time.
There’s also DFS. Detail in the attachment
They have a lead time of 10 days.
Would be good to hear what you’re also looking at.
It's certainly a lot of money for "decals," but on the other hand, you can give free rein to your ideas and AI, thus creating a very individual and unique racing bike.
And the decals are much thinner than this you can Cut Out of Vinyl.
I really enjoy giving my Far Eastern bikes my own design with lettering and logos.
Another picture of the box and the BTAIs the BTA holding well? I printed the bar from @ottawabikeparts but it cracked using a full bottle. I think this is partially due to my bottle cage that is very tight so I had to use quite some force to pull the bottle out.
Is the BTA holding well? I printed the bar from @ottawabikeparts but it cracked using a full bottle. I think this is partially due to my bottle cage that is very tight so I had to use quite some force to pull the bottle out.
3D printing alone is insufficient for these weights and mounting requirements..
Not entirely true. There are several materials that can significantly increase strength, multiple ways to print the parts, and you can always redesign them to be much more rigid and durable — this is especially important.
I’ve tested at least five different BTA solutions in PETG, and they worked decently. However, when I switched to Tritan HT, the performance improved considerably.
That said, exposing the parts to direct sunlight (for example, during a transition) will definitely hurt their longevity.
For an extra level of safety, you can coat the 3D printed part with resin — much like a carbon fiber + resin composite, but without the carbon. This usually turns the part into something extremely sturdy.
Hello, I would like to install a one piece carbon base bar (and stem combo) instead of the two piece design that comes standard with the frame. I have contacted Chris about compatibility with the frame but he is not sure what base bars are compatible. Does someone have experience with this?
My main concern regarding of the desire for this change is the flexibility the setup now has with the aluminium stem in combination with the carbon base bar. Previously, I had the carbon stem and base bar combo where the base bar slipped and cut of my brake lines almost causing a crash during a race. I was happy knowing there was a aluminium stem comming. (The alu stem feels sturdy yet too flexible for me).
Hopefully someone can help me!
Sorry I made a mistake attaching the files in my previous post
Hello, I would like to install a one piece carbon base bar (and stem combo) instead of the two piece design that comes standard with the frame. I have contacted Chris about compatibility with the frame but he is not sure what base bars are compatible. Does someone have experience with this?
My main concern regarding of the desire for this change is the flexibility the setup now has with the aluminium stem in combination with the carbon base bar. Previously, I had the carbon stem and base bar combo where the base bar slipped and cut of my brake lines almost causing a crash during a race. I was happy knowing there was a aluminium stem comming. (The alu stem feels sturdy yet too flexible for me).
Hopefully someone can help me!
Those risers looks amazing.
Another question: did you cut the basebar handles a bit shorter? they look not as long as others?
Does anyone have experience with cutting these bars? would it be safe to cut them a bit shorter? I think that would improve handeling (especially using RideRever Trivia brakes, that only extend outwards)
Mmmm I don´t remember...I just measured the length of the brake lever and cut the handlebar as short as I could following the instructions.
Sorry that is not so helpful.
I'm looking into the BXT handlbar. Not many universal options in both the mainstream or chinese market that have an integrated stem. There is tririg and the vision metron tfa base bar. Both are pricey.
https://bxtbikes.com/products/tt-handlebar-spacer-aero-handlebar-integrated-carbon-for-tt-bike-carbon-time-trial-handlebar-tt-bar-bike-parts-%E5%89%AF%E6%9C%AC (https://bxtbikes.com/products/tt-handlebar-spacer-aero-handlebar-integrated-carbon-for-tt-bike-carbon-time-trial-handlebar-tt-bar-bike-parts-%E5%89%AF%E6%9C%AC)
But I hear that you did cut them? That's the only thing I needed to hear :)
I will also be cutting them for a next fit.. but didn't know if it would be safe :) But apparently yes
Do they sell it separately? I'm always confused with the way these places handle stuff. I think the winnow tt129 has an integrated basebar/stem as well but i don't know if they would sell it separate as they don't have it listed as its own item yet but they have a other base bars and extensions on their site (https://sites.google.com/view/winowcycle/carbon-tttr-frame/tt129-arb02). I don't think you would get a perfectly flush fit from anything in less it was designed for the frame you're putting it on. I do doubt there is much info/experience out there mix matching these frames with many base bars.. You could look a speed concept base bar but good luck finding one.
edit: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-components/bike-handlebars/aero-bike-handlebars/trek-2022-speed-concept-slr-basebar/stem/p/38001/?colorCode=black guess you can buy it direct from them
Sorry I made a mistake attaching the files in my previous post
Hi,
What's the that thing like a bartape in the end of the extensions?
I feel like I need to shorten the steerer tube since I received the metal stem. I cannot pull tight the play as the plug is touching the cap before it's tight. How low should I cut?
What flat mount are people using for their front brake? I’m using the Riderever Triva, but can’t get enough clearance between the mounted brakes and my 140mm rotors. Does anyone have an AliExpress link they can share?
Did anyone find that they had to trim their seat post? I'm 180cm and ordered a medium and I had to trim the seat post, just to be able to get to the right position. I am using an ISM Adamo saddle which does seem have a high seat rail though. Mind you I do have little legs.
NBolt goes into your headset compression plug and washer between the headset and bearing if you need to space it out
That C shim should go on top of the compression ring (metal ring/c ring that sits around the steerer tube and on the upper headset bearing) and under the stem/spacer.
Is the C shim needed? I asked Chris where to put it and he just told me it's optional. So I didn't bother putting it.
Where did you find the rear disc for 475 USD? That's very, very cheap and I can't find it on the website for less than 780.My bad, it’s from Superteam wheels, link
Hi!
Here’s another build. Put it together last autumn and didn’t have any major issues, apart from Velobuild never sending me a replacement for the incorrectly painted bottle mount even though they promised they would…
Build was relatively easy, after I gave up trying to make Juin Tech F1 brakes work and switched to Riderever Triva ones.
It’s my first tri-bike, so I have nothing to compare it to. Fun to ride, and certainly fast enough to make me the bottleneck, not the bike :)
However, the seat post has recently started slipping when under load during a ride. I first noticed it after going over an extended patch of grooved asphalt - pure washboard. I wonder if that might have damaged something, but I can’t see any signs of that.
What’s the maximum torque for the seatpost wedge? Are there any good tricks to secure the seat post better?
Thanks,
Markus
Anyone having issue with the headset becoming loose with the alloy stem? Ever since I replaced the stem, the headset is becoming loose and I can hear some slight cracking noise after a long descent with lots of braking involved. How tight to I need to screw the expanded plug? how tight do I need to pull on it using the top cap? how tight does the alloy headset need to be tightened?
Any other suggestions? Are both bearings the same? Am I missing something?
Thanks!
Hello,
Although some brands specify torque values for tightening the expander plug and then for preloading the headset, during the Park Tool mechanic course I attended, they teach that the expander plug should be installed very securely. The goal is to ensure that when you preload the headset, the plug does not slip upward or pull out of the fork steerer tube.
In practice, using only hand force, it is extremely difficult to damage a carbon fork from the inside out with a properly installed expander plug.
When preloading the headset, the stem should already be installed on the steerer tube, but the stem clamp bolts must remain loose. Then install the top cap and the bolt that threads into the expander plug.
The Park Tool recommendation is to tighten the top cap bolt gradually until you begin to feel slight resistance. From there, continue making small adjustments while checking whether all play has been eliminated from the headset system.
If you tighten it too much, the steering will become stiff and the handlebar will not turn freely. If you do not tighten it enough, there will be play in the headset, making the front end loose and potentially dangerous to ride.
One important detail is that the fork steerer tube must be cut to the correct length. If it is too long, the expander plug or steerer may contact the top cap, preventing proper headset preload and leaving play in the system. If it is cut too short (especially below the level of the upper stem clamp bolt), the setup can become unsafe because the stem may not clamp the steerer properly, potentially allowing the handlebar and stem to rotate independently of the fork.
Proper steerer length, correct expander plug installation, and careful headset preload adjustment are all essential for safety and reliable performance.
Does anybody have any recommendations for BTA setup on the stock basebar and risers? Trying to brainstorm how to mount in that single hole in the middle of the plate.
That plate looks great! If you've got any feedback on it, I'd love to hear.
For a computer mount, I've had a few solutions.
Now, I made a much longer bottle rail and a 3D printed mount on the rail with the Garmin insert to attach the computer to.
Hey, could it be possible to share the Garmin mount 3d file? Thanks!
Hi,
had the same problem. I used some carbon assembly paste around and also on the installed grip tape on the seatpost.
Used 6.5Nm and voila, no issues anymore.
Here is an adapter for mounting a standard carbon computer mount to the single mounting hole on the TT-023 bridge.
The computer mount must be 16 mm wide at the point where it attaches to the 3D-printed part.
Greetings Bernhard
Yours might twist, sooner or later. I designed the following fixation.
sure sure, pls see enclosed
My Velobuild TT in size M is finished and rides incredibly well – it's lightning fast!
The color is exposed carbon with a glossy clear coat and custom decals (which Velobuild produced for an additional fee and applied under the clear coat).
TRP brakes (with SRAM Blips)
SRAM XPLR rear derailleur (54/10-36)
SRAM Rival E1 Powermeter
ELITE EDGE 2.0 (65mm)
12cm of Spacers
Custom-designed toolbox
AeroCovers on the spacers
BTA for the Velobuild handlebars
All parts are 3D printed.
Hi everyone, and thank you for all your contributions. I recently placed an order with VeloBuild for a TT-023, went with the custom paint job; I have to confess, I took some of the images in this thread and applied the paint job with ChatGPT; See below, I'll continue to post a real photo once I receive the frame and starit the build-out. Build details below, so far I've spend around $3,650 USD. Also have a Elite Wheels rear disc wheel in the cart for $475 USD but not sure to pull the trigger.
Frame $1,252.00 VeloBuild TT-023
BB $38.00 SRAM DUB English 68/73mm
Brakes $352.00 SRAM Rival Aero Hydraulic Disc Brake E1
Shifters $105.00 SRAM eTap AXS Wireless Blips
Wheelset $386.00 ENST Wave 4550
Rotors $42.00 ZRACE RT-RX 160 mm
Cassette $95.00 SRAM Rival XG-1250 12S 10-36T
Tires $120.00 Pirelli P Zero Race TLR
Crankarms $150.00 SRAM Force Crank Arm Assembly - 165mm
Chainring $80.00 SPRILL X110BCD - 54t
PM $147.00 LEOSEEK EPM010
RD $235.00 SRAM Force eTap AXS D1
Chain $59.00 FORCE Force Flattop Chain - 12/13-Speed
Aerobars $579.00 AEROCOACH Ascalons + Adaptors(FBM)
Hi guys thanks for everybodys information here, I've learned a lot. I'm looking at a build, it will be my first bike build so any feedback welcome. I noticed most in here have built up with a 1x chainring, wonder if there's any reason for this or just preference? Anything wrong with going 2x? What I'm thinking below (prices AUD):
Frame Velobuild TT023 1433
Wheels 10Plus 60mm 500
Groupset Ltwoo ERX TT 1300
Crankset "Magene PES 515 52-36 537
Chain KMC X12 50
Casette Shimano 11-30 120
Tyres F1 Supersport 120
Saddle Ryet TT 3D 150
Rotors Zrace 140/160 25
Bottom Bracket Token 24I 50
Here’s a photo of the build as of today
I got the wrong bb originally, got the right one a SRAM T47 Inboard, also the ZRACE rotors where sketchy, so I got SRAM Paceline. I also got the LEAP components sram aero handle.
Thinkering on the hydration system since I’m using this bike for Ironman training/racing.
Here’s a photo of the build as of today
I got the wrong bb originally, got the right one a SRAM T47 Inboard, also the ZRACE rotors where sketchy, so I got SRAM Paceline. I also got the LEAP components sram aero handle.
Thinkering on the hydration system since I’m using this bike for Ironman training/racing.
Nice build! Where are located? Any chance USA and you could share info on tariffs/duties?Thanks! Yes I’m in Texas, I did paid $52 bucks on tariffs/taxes, VeloBuild was upfront about it when I reached to them thru AliExpress. Once I placed the order, I contacted Chris and had multiple back and forth emails about the paint scheme. Here’s how much I paid for the frame:
It turned out to be a beautiful bike.
I did notice that you used my build as inspiration 😉
How do you find the reach from your handlebars to your brake levers? I actually shortened mine by 3cm, and it’s much better.
I see you also used the base plate from the VB handlebar to mount your 15-degree Aerocoach extensions. Just out of curiosity, why did you set it up that way?
Otherwise, a stunning build!
PS: I love your OSPW system—where did you get it? 🤗
Thanks! Yes I’m in Texas, I did paid $52 bucks on tariffs/taxes, VeloBuild was upfront about it when I reached to them thru AliExpress. Once I placed the order, I contacted Chris and had multiple back and forth emails about the paint scheme. Here’s how much I paid for the frame:
Bike frame:$1,169.00
Extra RD hanger: $10.00
Subtotal:$1,179.00
(-) Coupon Savings:$100.00
Shipping:$126.00
Handling Fee:$47.00
Grand Total:$1,252.00
Tariffs: $52
Hey folks! I finally built my TT-023, thanks in large part to this amazing thread.
Nice build, you just commited a crime posting the build on the wrong side ;D next time, gears up front 8)I confess, good sir. have edited the post to reflect your verdict!
Hey, could it be possible to share the Garmin mount 3d file? Thanks!
Hey folks! I finally built my TT-023, thanks in large part to this amazing thread.
I’m based in China, so I sourced everything locally and mostly Chinese-made, including WheelTop’s latest TT groupset. So far, it seems to be a pretty good deal.
I had my local bike shop handle the build, and the mechanic didn’t run into many issues. The only problem was that the seatpost kept slipping until I tightened it to 8 Nm, as recommended by Velobuild’s after-sales support.
I’ve only ridden it outdoors once because I mostly train on a smart trainer and the weather hasn’t been great. That one ride was awesome, though—the bike feels comfortable and stiff, and the data suggests it’s faster than my road bike with clip-on aero bars. Duh, of course!
I’ll be racing it in a long-course event at the end of this month. If anyone’s interested, I’ll hopefully report back afterward.
Below is my setup:
Component Brand / Model Price (converted to USD)
Frameset VB TT 023 $932.03
Groupset Wheeltop $577.83
Crankset 105, 165 mm $78.55
Chain DA $35.57
Cassette UT, 11–30T $38.24
Bottom Bracket Token $38.68
Wheelset Exar DB607 Ultra(used) $370.50
Brake Rotors iiipro $15.41
Tires Power Cup $91.88
Tubeless Valves & Sealant Boostor & Giant $14.38
Bar Tape Boostor $9.04
Saddle Baluego(used) $41.35
Bike Assembly — $207.48
Total $2,450.93
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256812160592046.html
Wondering how this might look on the TT023
What is exactly your curiosity regarding this cockpit?
Curved basebar may be a little faster, but not everyone will enjoy the lowered position when braking (you yourself asked here for a raised basebar once if I'm not mistaken)
Monopost won't render a great advantage either (as opposed to the traditional dual post), marginal gains if any...
Bars are a copy of the ones sold with the bike. Difference being the hand grip, which can be switched to adapt to your needs. Again not sure it will be a lot faster, but more confort on your position will end up faster (you can stay aero for longer periods of time and save energy). Balugoe sell these for a decent price if you look for something hassle free (won't need to switch the whole front end of the bike)
Focusing only at "looks", certainly will be a distinct front end...
Love the bikes name.
Was it painted by Velobuild or supplied as decals with the frame if so, what did you specify for decal colour, or did you add the decal yourself afterwards?"
I customised the decal sticker after ordering the frame in stock glossy black. The colour I believe to be chrome silver. It's much cheaper to do so (around 8USD) and I can regret anytime if I feel stupid about the name later on.
anyone aware of similar frames available in XL or XXL (~61cm) frame sizes?
Did someone has issues with the headset? Stability
Can you share a link of where you got the decals? I want to do custom paint, but I'd also like to do custom decals beyond just a downtube name. It would be cool to be able to swap out if you got bored of it! I also saw someone else say VB did their decals and it was kind of expensive.
Hey folks! I finally built my TT-023, thanks in large part to this amazing thread.
I’m based in China, so I sourced everything locally and mostly Chinese-made, including WheelTop’s latest TT groupset. So far, it seems to be a pretty good deal.
I had my local bike shop handle the build, and the mechanic didn’t run into many issues. The only problem was that the seatpost kept slipping until I tightened it to 8 Nm, as recommended by Velobuild’s after-sales support.
I’ve only ridden it outdoors once because I mostly train on a smart trainer and the weather hasn’t been great. That one ride was awesome, though—the bike feels comfortable and stiff, and the data suggests it’s faster than my road bike with clip-on aero bars. Duh, of course!
I’ll be racing it in a long-course event at the end of this month. If anyone’s interested, I’ll hopefully report back afterward.
Below is my setup:
Component Brand / Model Price (converted to USD)
Frameset VB TT 023 $932.03
Groupset Wheeltop $577.83
Crankset 105, 165 mm $78.55
Chain DA $35.57
Cassette UT, 11–30T $38.24
Bottom Bracket Token $38.68
Wheelset Exar DB607 Ultra(used) $370.50
Brake Rotors iiipro $15.41
Tires Power Cup $91.88
Tubeless Valves & Sealant Boostor & Giant $14.38
Bar Tape Boostor $9.04
Saddle Baluego(used) $41.35
Bike Assembly — $207.48
Total $2,450.93
Hey, did the TRP HD-T910 brakes fit well? I'm trying to find out if this or the T912 would be the correct fit
Also curious about this as I research the very few options available. Anyone have insight?
For bars measuring a diameter between 22-24 mm: HD-T910
For bars measuring a diameter between 24-25 mm: HD-T912
Just began ordering parts for this build, thank you all for the wisdom!
Hi there, your build looks spectacular!! I wanted to ask where you got the BTA (Between The Arms) setup for the water bottles and the Garmin mount. Could you tell me where you bought it or if it’s a 3D-printed part? I’d love to get one for mine.
Hi all,
Just starting my build. First problem I've encountered is the headset bearing sitting too high above the black crown race. I was wondering if I was sent the wrong crown race. Has anyone had this problem?
I can't attach a photo of issue so changed my profile photo.
Thanks
Yes I sent Chris a few messages. He said push harder but not possible. Have a look at the photos attached.
Yes I sent Chris a few messages. He said push harder but not possible. Have a look at the photos attached.
Hi everyone, I’d like to order a frame—size L. I’m 195 cm tall; do you think that will fit? Also, are extra spacers included for the cockpit?
What have your experiences with the bike been like? ;)
Does anyone has suggestions for a TT cockpit that fits to the Velobuild TT-023? I like the frame set. But the cockpit is not adjustable enough
Another picture of the box and the BTA
You could look into the FastTT extender plates. I think someone here has used them.I use the adjustable angle reach extenders. They screw right into the provided base plate.