Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: NikkoPh on August 20, 2024, 03:51:14 PM
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Hello all,
Just finish building my TT bike from Velobuild, its a VB-TT-023. The frame came in from china to the US within a week after shipping, total waiting time i think was around 3 weeks.
Very well packaged and includes tons of extra hardware.
The build has the following components
SRAM Red 1X 50T
SRAM Force D2 172.5mm crankarm
Assioma Favero single power meter
SRAM Force D1 Rear Derailleur
Kogel Aero oversize pulley
SRAM Flattop chain
SRAM Force 10-33T casette
SRAM S900 Aero HRD Levers and Calipers
SRAM Wireless Blips
ISM PS 1.0 Saddle
Hyper D65 Wheels
Pirelli Pzero TLR 700x28c
Elite Aero bottles and cages
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So neat, so clean
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Nice build. How does it ride ?
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Nice one! Did you weighted it? Could you post some detailed pictures of the cockpit? Was it easy to find good position?
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What happened to the cover on the seat tube? Does it not fit?
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very nice.
can you please post 1000 pictures on the front end of the bike? i'm curious about how it works, how adjustable it is, whether it's well made and so on, because if you can't adjust that correctly, you can't get comfortable on the bike and it defeats the purpose.
the VB website has very little information about the front end.
Thanks!
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Nice build. How does it ride ?
This is my first TT bike, i was very uncomfortable at first so i had to always stop and adjust my position. Ill get you a proper feedback as soon as i get dialed in.
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Nice one! Did you weighted it? Could you post some detailed pictures of the cockpit? Was it easy to find good position?
It is at 20.75lbs with everything you see in the pictures on my first post. The cockpit has a decent amount of adjustability, i believe the extensions are a copy of metron tfa armrest, ill take more detailed pictures of the cockpit and its adjustability.
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What happened to the cover on the seat tube? Does it not fit?
I had to adjust my seat when i did my shakedown, it does fit but i just didnt put it properly when i took the pictures
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very nice.
can you please post 1000 pictures on the front end of the bike? i'm curious about how it works, how adjustable it is, whether it's well made and so on, because if you can't adjust that correctly, you can't get comfortable on the bike and it defeats the purpose.
the VB website has very little information about the front end.
Thanks!
Ill get you more detailed pictures soon and its adjustability. The cockpit came with 3 spacers, a 5mm, 10mm and 20mm. The bridge can be flip and has more than 20 mounting holes, it looks similar to the one in aliexpress when you search for tt bars.
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Superb build and sooo clean! Love seeing tt builds on this forum more and more. I'm also thinking about building a tt bike during next winter, and I'm thinking the tantan tt912 or velobuild vb-r-023. I'd be super grateful if you post more pictures. Especially details on the mounting points. Can the frame hold a bento box? Or does it have other storage means for nutrition? Alsooo, can you mount a front hydration system to the stem? Sorry for the spam, I'm just getting a bit excited for this frame
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Here are some pictures of the cockpit, it has a decent amount of adjustability in my opinion. Unfortunately there are mounting holes on the top tube for extra hydration or bento box, maybe this can be added in the future.
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Have actually just pulled the trigger on ordering a VB-TT-23 too for a cheap Disc Brake TT build but is yet to arrive. Frameset looked decent but only concern (not even concern, just my petty-ness) is the Basebar and the exposed bolts on the underside. My frameset is yet to arrive but thinking of getting some other basebars to address the aforementioned issue.
Don't suppose you could measure the width of the stem clamping section could you please?
Thanks
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Have actually just pulled the trigger on ordering a VB-TT-23 too for a cheap Disc Brake TT build but is yet to arrive. Frameset looked decent but only concern (not even concern, just my petty-ness) is the Basebar and the exposed bolts on the underside. My frameset is yet to arrive but thinking of getting some other basebars to address the aforementioned issue.
Don't suppose you could measure the width of the stem clamping section could you please?
Thanks
I actually ordered a tririg alpha one to replace mt basebar and extensions. I have a few measurements i did before ordering it, see attached pictures. Let me know if you need any other measurements.
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I also ordered this frame a few weeks ago, still waiting for it to arrive. I also asked them to add some bento box rivets to the top tube which they said yes to, so that's an option.
Is there any way of routing di2 cables down the extensions? I was assuming that there was an exit hole somewhere at the bottom of the extensions but I cant see one
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I also ordered this frame a few weeks ago, still waiting for it to arrive. I also asked them to add some bento box rivets to the top tube which they said yes to, so that's an option.
Is there any way of routing di2 cables down the extensions? I was assuming that there was an exit hole somewhere at the bottom of the extensions but I cant see one
Yes, there are holes underneath the extensions for di2 cables and you have to route through the stem.
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I actually ordered a tririg alpha one to replace mt basebar and extensions. I have a few measurements i did before ordering it, see attached pictures. Let me know if you need any other measurements.
Thats great, appreciate that! I was thinking of doing similar and replacing the stock stem with Tri Rig or alike. Whats your general thoughts on the frame? I had minor reservations about slippage on contact points like seatpost and handlebar so always curious to hear. Also, what Bottom Bracket are you running, looking at the dimensions and then looking online they seem to be the same BB as the Trek? I see you went for the SRAM Crankset so guessing its a T47-86.5 SRAM Dub?
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I also ordered this frame a few weeks ago, still waiting for it to arrive. I also asked them to add some bento box rivets to the top tube which they said yes to, so that's an option.
That's pretty sweet that they did that. I see in some of the GAs that they intended to have in-built bento in the top tube of the frame but it obviously didn't make the cut for the production models.
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Thats great, appreciate that! I was thinking of doing similar and replacing the stock stem with Tri Rig or alike. Whats your general thoughts on the frame? I had minor reservations about slippage on contact points like seatpost and handlebar so always curious to hear. Also, what Bottom Bracket are you running, looking at the dimensions and then looking online they seem to be the same BB as the Trek? I see you went for the SRAM Crankset so guessing its a T47-86.5 SRAM Dub?
Ill get you ride feedback by next week, yes i am running a t47 dub bottom bracket.
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I also asked them to add some bento box rivets to the top tube which they said yes to, so that's an option.
You're getting me all excited! ! Not sure if I can handle this on a Saturday morning
Please post pictures once you get the frame
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1st proper ride with the VB-TT-023 today
Bike is truly stiff, broke alot of PR’s today on a route that i havent been on for several months. Considering that this is my first time on a TT bike, i am truly happy with the frame and my build, no issues on a 63 mile ride with 1k feet of elevation, i completed the ride in 3:06.22 averaging 20.1mph on 204watts.
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I got the frame this week, still waiting on components, but thought I would share some photos anyway. I went with silver chameleon, which doesn't really come out in photos, but looks nice in the sun.
This is with the top tube bento mount, it fits a bottle cage so its the right size I think for most screw on bento boxes. The top tube also feels pretty sturdy so I have no worries about that.
The brake mounts probably need to be faced which I'm not too worried about. I'm not sure if I should sand away the paint on the outside of the bottom bracket or not.
There also isn't really a great place to put the di2 junction boxes, sending 4 cables down the stem feels like they will get chewed up and be a pain in the ass when I try to put it in a bike box to fly with. I'm currently planning to print a small box to screw on under the cockpit metal plate thing and shove all the connections in there so I can have one wire going down the stem, which I can disconnect in the front. Sram makes a lot more sense.
Regarding the cockpit, it feels fairly comfortable to lean on, but ill give some feedback when I've had a few rides on it. It would have been nice with another few cm of spacers as last time it took me quite a while to sink into a decent aero position, starting gently really helps. It also lacks an angle spacers, the handlebars are fixed at 10 degrees.
The spacers seem to be this design:
https://progresscycles.com/en/producto/pg-241-kit-espaciadores-aerobar-20mm/
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Picture from ironman event
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Picture from ironman event
Finished the build just in time I guess! Hope you are happy with your bike split. I'm doing a 70.3 next weekend on my road bike and if I like it, I'll build a tt over the off season and do a full IM next season. Nice picture, and nice fit btw! Care to share your height and frame size?
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Finished the build just in time I guess! Hope you are happy with your bike split. I'm doing a 70.3 next weekend on my road bike and if I like it, I'll build a tt over the off season and do a full IM next season. Nice picture, and nice fit btw! Care to share your height and frame size?
Yes i am, i did 2:53 on a 55 mile 2500 feet elevation course, could have done better for sure. Im 6’0 168lbs and the frame is a large, i think i can get away with a medium.
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Picture from ironman event
One of the coolest and practical out in the wild photos I've seen on this forum.
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Does it appear to fit the claimed 32c tires?
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Picture from ironman event
Cool picture. Really love the bike as well! Clean lines, think it should do well against frames like Trek Speedconcept, Cayon Speedmax, etc.
Just 3 observations:
- I think a giro Aerohead will save you minutes (almost for free, sell this one, buy new one). Also, your helmet looks bit small.
- I would switch to rear facing BTA bottle placed as high and far back as possible
- race without socks, easier to put them on in T2. Saves you some seconds and you start the run with fresh socks
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Cool picture. Really love the bike as well! Clean lines, think it should do well against frames like Trek Speedconcept, Cayon Speedmax, etc.
Just 3 observations:
- I think a giro Aerohead will save you minutes (almost for free, sell this one, buy new one). Also, your helmet looks bit small.
- I would switch to rear facing BTA bottle placed as high and far back as possible
- race without socks, easier to put them on in T2. Saves you some seconds and you start the run with fresh socks
Thank you for your suggestions. Ill definitely consider changing my helmet for my next event, this is a large Kask Bambino pro evo, i dont think they have anything bigger, it may look small but its still comfortable in my head with still alot of room for adjustment.
I choose this front hydration system because of the straw, i can easily drink without taking my hands off the aero bars.
Im not comfortable without socks, and besides i use the same socks for running, no issues so far.
I appreciate all your suggestions ;)
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Does it appear to fit the claimed 32c tires?
Ill take a picture of the clearance later on but i think it would
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1st proper ride with the VB-TT-023 today
Bike is truly stiff, broke alot of PR’s today on a route that i havent been on for several months. Considering that this is my first time on a TT bike, i am truly happy with the frame and my build, no issues on a 63 mile ride with 1k feet of elevation, i completed the ride in 3:06.22 averaging 20.1mph on 204watts.
What's the fit like for your Alpha One around the headset area? I just got both my frame and the Alpha One but its quite skinny compared to the stock Stem?
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What's the fit like for your Alpha One around the headset area? I just got both my frame and the Alpha One but its quite skinny compared to the stock Stem?
Very skinny but i dont really mind, i like the adjustability of the alpha one paired with their ultimate cups.
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Ultimate cups. That's what she said.
You guys are talking cockpits /stems that aren't stock with the velobuild frame, right? I'm considering getting one and obviously the bike fit, and therefore the cockpit to a large extent, is the most important thing to go fast on such a bike.
Can you please explain for us what cockpit you got / didn't get, how it compares to the VB, why and so on?
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Ultimate cups. What's what she said.
You guys are talking cockpits /stems that aren't stock with the velobuild frame, right? I'm considering getting one and obviously the bike fit, and therefore the cockpit to a large extent, is the most important thing to go fast on such a bike.
Can you please explain for us what cockpit you got / didn't get, how it compares to the VB, why and so on?
Hey serge,
I changed to stock bar/stem/aerobar combo with Tririg alpha one with tririg ultimate cups.
The stock aerobar appears to be a copy of vision tfe extensions, nothing wrong with it but with the tririg adjusting your position is very easy, just one single 4mm bolt would adjust the stack height, same with the extension angle. The ultimate cups allows full forearm support. Downside is, The cockpit alone is more than the cost of the vb frame, the stem looks very narrow compared to the stock stem, a little hard to route the brake lines, i had to cut a bit of the openings on the spacers.
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The stock aerobar appears to be a copy of vision tfe extensions,
https://www.instagram.com/p/C97c_oKNBsy/?img_index=4
The (real) Vision TFE used at the olympics, it seems.
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Ultimate cups. That's what she said.
You guys are talking cockpits /stems that aren't stock with the velobuild frame, right? I'm considering getting one and obviously the bike fit, and therefore the cockpit to a large extent, is the most important thing to go fast on such a bike.
Can you please explain for us what cockpit you got / didn't get, how it compares to the VB, why and so on?
Like Nikko, changed out the Stem / Bar that came with the Frameset for the Tri Rig Alpha One but I will be using Aerocoach 35 Degree extensions (22.2 mm pole clamps). The Alpha One has pretty amazing adjustability which is what I was after. Basically I had a look to see how it would look when installed on the fork and the overall width is narrower than the stock stem and as such can see some of the headset bearings (albeit they are covered). My frameset is currently being built up in the bike shop but can provide pictures when its back.
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For context this is how the tririg compared to the stock stem looks likes
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Just ordered a VB-TT-023 in white ice crack, with the extra threads for a bento box on top. Hope it will turn out alright! Gotta keep busy in the off season ;)
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Picture from ironman event
How did you apply the lettering to the frame?
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1st proper ride with the VB-TT-023 today
Bike is truly stiff, broke alot of PR’s today on a route that i havent been on for several months. Considering that this is my first time on a TT bike, i am truly happy with the frame and my build, no issues on a 63 mile ride with 1k feet of elevation, i completed the ride in 3:06.22 averaging 20.1mph on 204watts.
Is the ospw fake?
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Finally finished my VB-TT build. Only ridden on Turbo so far so no idea on road feel / secureness of contact points (particularly concerned about Bars / Seatpost slipping on bumpy terrain)
Components:
SRAM Force Rear Mech
2 pairs of SRAM AXS Wireles Blips
76 Projects Blip Holders
RideRever Trivia TT Brakes
Stock Basebar and Vision TFE Clone Bars
Pass Quest 56t Single Chainring
Dura Ace R9200 167.5 mm Crankset
KMC 12 Speed Chain
Praxis T47 Integrated Bottom Bracket (Shimano)
Shimano 105 R7100 11-34t Cassette
ISM PN3.1 Saddle
*I do have a SRAM Red eTap AXS Front Mech and Pass Quest 56/42t Double Chainring for a 2x setup
Tri Spoke and Disc to be obtained in due course.
Cost: £1,921.54 (not including labor to build or 2x Chainset setup)
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I'm not far off pulling the trigger on purchasing this frame, checked out all the other options and this just feels like the right frame for me. Just need to sort out final colour and costing (Chris has been super helpful answering all my questions), thinking mat black to match the wheels. My build will take a few months as the wheels are going to take a while to build. Hopefully on the road early Jan.
Planning to double sided sticky tape the bento box, not as clean a solution but allows for my ProfileDesign FC35 to be custom mounted in front of it. I plan on running the stock bars, unless my bike fitter says not to.
All the bike builds posted here are nice and clean looking.
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I'm not far off pulling the trigger on purchasing this frame, checked out all the other options and this just feels like the right frame for me. Just need to sort out final colour and costing (Chris has been super helpful answering all my questions), thinking mat black to match the wheels. My build will take a few months as the wheels are going to take a while to build. Hopefully on the road early Jan.
Planning to double sided sticky tape the bento box, not as clean a solution but allows for my ProfileDesign FC35 to be custom mounted in front of it. I plan on running the stock bars, unless my bike fitter says not to.
All the bike builds posted here are nice and clean looking.
If you pull the trigger, ask Chris to include some extra spacers for the aero bars. While they can be bought 3rd party it’s very handy if the bike comes with extra that aren’t needed, rather than not come with them but are needed. I myself need another 35-50mm stack worth.
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How is the tire clearance in this bike?
Would be awesome to run 32mm (measured) tires for longer events.
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Finally finished my VB-TT build. Only ridden on Turbo so far so no idea on road feel / secureness of contact points (particularly concerned about Bars / Seatpost slipping on bumpy terrain)
Components:
SRAM Force Rear Mech
2 pairs of SRAM AXS Wireles Blips
76 Projects Blip Holders
RideRever Trivia TT Brakes
Stock Basebar and Vision TFE Clone Bars
Pass Quest 56t Single Chainring
Dura Ace R9200 167.5 mm Crankset
KMC 12 Speed Chain
Praxis T47 Integrated Bottom Bracket (Shimano)
Shimano 105 R7100 11-34t Cassette
ISM PN3.1 Saddle
*I do have a SRAM Red eTap AXS Front Mech and Pass Quest 56/42t Double Chainring for a 2x setup
Tri Spoke and Disc to be obtained in due course.
Cost: £1,921.54 (not including labor to build or 2x Chainset setup)
Bike looks awesome.
And yeah, a disc/trispoke or some 80mm deep wheels will finish it off.
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Finally finished my VB-TT build. Only ridden on Turbo so far so no idea on road feel / secureness of contact points (particularly concerned about Bars / Seatpost slipping on bumpy terrain)
Components:
SRAM Force Rear Mech
2 pairs of SRAM AXS Wireles Blips
76 Projects Blip Holders
RideRever Trivia TT Brakes
Stock Basebar and Vision TFE Clone Bars
Pass Quest 56t Single Chainring
Dura Ace R9200 167.5 mm Crankset
KMC 12 Speed Chain
Praxis T47 Integrated Bottom Bracket (Shimano)
Shimano 105 R7100 11-34t Cassette
ISM PN3.1 Saddle
*I do have a SRAM Red eTap AXS Front Mech and Pass Quest 56/42t Double Chainring for a 2x setup
Tri Spoke and Disc to be obtained in due course.
Cost: £1,921.54 (not including labor to build or 2x Chainset setup)
Love it! Didn't know you could mix and match Shimano and sram like that, but apparently you never stop learning!
I'm due to receive my frame soon aswell and plan to go for a 1x setup as well (living in pancake flat northern Germany..). So I'm wondering what offset did you chose on there passquest chainring? Did you spend lots of time to optimize the chain line?
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Love it! Didn't know you could mix and match Shimano and sram like that, but apparently you never stop learning!
I'm due to receive my frame soon aswell and plan to go for a 1x setup as well (living in pancake flat northern Germany..). So I'm wondering what offset did you chose on there passquest chainring? Did you spend lots of time to optimize the chain line?
Honestly, I wasn't too sure how mix and matching would work either but seems to be ok so far. Also, for chain ring offset I am not too sure about it, its just a standard DA 9200 compatible 12s chainring (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006163501452.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.54.727b1802JhYbj7).
I asked Velobuild what max Chainring size (60t IIRC) and chose accordingly for the racing I will be doing next season. I've raced on 56t and 58t 1x and also 56/44t 2x on my last bike so knew both worked well for me. I also just bought what was cheap and 11-34t was the cheapest cassette I found. I will swap this out down the line for an AliExpress Ultralight cassette for my A race where Weight will be a factor.
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I all, I am considering buying the VB tt 023 as well. I am 190 with 87 cm inseam so kind of "short legs". I am really in doubt if it would fit me and would therefore love to hear if someone was able to give any advice on fit? Furthermore is any one aware if it is possible to mount a BTA system?
Best
Markus
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I all, I am considering buying the VB tt 023 as well. I am 190 with 87 cm inseam so kind of "short legs". I am really in doubt if it would fit me and would therefore love to hear if someone was able to give any advice on fit? Furthermore is any one aware if it is possible to mount a BTA system?
Best
Markus
I see that the Geometry of the Velobuild TT-023 are similar to those of Trek Speed Concept. You can check which size fits you with Trek and then buy a similar size in TT-023
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https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/velobuild-vb-tt-023-2023-l,velobuild-vb-tt-023-2023-m,trek-speed-concept-slr-7-2023-l,trek-speed-concept-slr-7-2023-m/
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/triathlon-bikes/speed-concept/c/B231/
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Thank you!!
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I all, I am considering buying the VB tt 023 as well. I am 190 with 87 cm inseam so kind of "short legs". I am really in doubt if it would fit me and would therefore love to hear if someone was able to give any advice on fit? Furthermore is any one aware if it is possible to mount a BTA system?
I am 187cm and also have shorter legs respective to my torso and on the L frame (previously rode an XL Trek SC). Can feel somewhat 'small' when out saddle and riding but thats not a biggie at all. Unless you can ride a super slammed position, ask for at least 1 more set of the 5-10-20mm spacers.
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I all, I am considering buying the VB tt 023 as well. I am 190 with 87 cm inseam so kind of "short legs". I am really in doubt if it would fit me and would therefore love to hear if someone was able to give any advice on fit? Furthermore is any one aware if it is possible to mount a BTA system?
Best
Markus
Did you go for it? I am 186cm with 91cm legs and I fear the L is too small because of my inseam. I still think this frame is the best option out there if it fits.
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I am new to building bikes, and I am looking for a BB for the VB TT 023. The measurements on the website says 86.5. I am doing a sram build and can only find a 85.5mm T47 Sram dub BB. Can I go with that?
Thank you!
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Did you go for it? I am 186cm with 91cm legs and I fear the L is too small because of my inseam. I still think this frame is the best option out there if it fits.
Yes, think I might receive it in the coming week - will update :)
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the VB frame is out for me. VB doesn't even answer messages.
New one in the mix is the Elves Falath. It's an aero bike. But they have a nice TT setup. But need to dig deeper...
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the VB frame is out for me. VB doesn't even answer messages.
New one in the mix is the Elves Falath. It's an aero bike. But they have a nice TT setup. But need to dig deeper...
if you are considering a tri-mod falath, take note of sebastan kienle tri-mod scott foil (ttx38)
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if you are considering a tri-mod falath, take note of sebastan kienle tri-mod scott foil (ttx38)
Can you elaborate on that, I'm very interested?
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Can you elaborate on that, I'm very interested?
https://youtu.be/lS6fKtgM6eY?si=LZnyQcVtWT_ipy8O
this was Kienle's custom mod Foil for the Norseman Tri.
tt-x38 have similar geo to Foil.
granted that his foil had custom seat post, but at least x38 seatpost isnt setback like on Falath
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talked to elves. yolu can turn the seatpost by 180 degree. that should give you some flexibility
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Hello all,
did someone messure the real seat angle range of this frame?
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Hello all,
did someone messure the real seat angle range of this frame?
Trigonometry time, because the answer is probably "no".
I'm assuming:
- a 81cm saddle to BB distance.
- 25mm of movement from the center (basically i assume there's 5cm of adjustment on the seat post: 80 degrees.
- 40mm for the nose of the saddle vs where it's clamped: 83 degrees.
That's ghetto math, but it shouldnt be too far off.
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I have a buddy who purchased a Yoeleo TT frame for his road bike setup. Elite racer. Although he only uses the bike for training. A total diesel of a rider. Freakishly fast on the flats with his setup.
Him and I have extremely similar heights, wingspans, and proportions. Super flexible and long arms.
He suffers from the same exact dilemma I have which is needing a lot of reach for my height. But without the unnecessary stack height that comes with larger frames. He's been trying to get me on a TT frame for years. Lots of reach, no toe overlap, low stack, more balanced position over the frame. And most importantly no need for a 130-140mm stem that affects handling/steering.
I've had my eye on this VB TT frame since last summer. But it's quite the undertaking to experiment with a TT frame for road, only to potentially discover afterwards that was a bad idea.
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I have a buddy who purchased a Yoeleo TT frame for his road bike setup.
that yeoleo T9 is the tt912, though that pic uses some aftermarket fork.
my tt912 is a tad large as i need the reach (tantan only have 80mm n 100mm stem). had tantan offers 120-130 stem, i would gone 1size down.
you have the ttx38, thats close to a foil, and foil to last gen plasma (as close a road frame to a tt frame)
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that yeoleo T9 is the tt912, though that pic uses some aftermarket fork.
my tt912 is a tad large as i need the reach (tantan only have 80mm n 100mm stem). had tantan offers 120-130 stem, i would gone 1size down.
you have the ttx38, thats close to a foil, and foil to last gen plasma (as close a road frame to a tt frame)
Even with my TanTan x38 I'm still needing to run a 140mm stem. Frame reach is 394 stack 575. With the reach and steep seatpost angle of the VB-TT-023 in a size large I could get away with a 100-110mm stem. It would probably still corner like a yacht. But 90% of my rides are solo on long flat roads.
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Even with my TanTan x38 I'm still needing to run a 140mm stem. Frame reach is 394 stack 575. With the reach and steep seatpost angle of the VB-TT-023 in a size large I could get away with a 100-110mm stem. It would probably still corner like a yacht. But 90% of my rides are solo on long flat roads.
Actually nevermind my earlier thoughts. Once you start raising the front end you lose effective overall reach.
Increasing the stack height by 53mm just to be near that of a normal road bike...nets me a reduction in reach by 17mm. Which is almost basically the same reach as my Tavelo Arow in a similar size. I think there could be some other benefits to using a TT bike for road. But it appears bike fit stack/reach isn't really one of them.
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All parts have finally arrived and got the rig set up. This is what it looks like pretty much in race set up (1st race is IM Lanza so front mech needed, but will be removed for flatter races).
Made a DIY BTA bottle cage plate from an AliEx carbon plate and a 3 slot bottle age adaptor common in MTBing.
The Trek Speedconcept Gen 3 (disc brake) specific downtube bottle doesnt work on this frame as it comes, however I'll find a way to mod the that bottle cage to fit. That or use the Orbea Ordu OMX or Cervelo downtube bottle.
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That looks great!
Are those the Winow extensions? What do you think of them?
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That looks great!
Are those the Winow extensions? What do you think of them?
Yeah these are the first release of the Winow extensions paired with a drag 2 zero 15 deg spacer. Generally pretty happy with the extensions. Still yet to sort a garmin mount as I don’t fancy paying the £25 for the winow ones / I like DIYing it.
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Nice! Let us know what you come up with.
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Looks like a nice setup. I can see you have the new(ish) 65mm AliE trispoke. I haven't been able to finde any specs on it. Do you know the inner, outer and max width? It looks pretty good.
Oh, and remove the front valve cap, its only use is for tube storage and transportation purposes ;p
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All parts have finally arrived and got the rig set up. This is what it looks like pretty much in race set up (1st race is IM Lanza so front mech needed, but will be removed for flatter races).
Made a DIY BTA bottle cage plate from an AliEx carbon plate and a 3 slot bottle age adaptor common in MTBing.
The Trek Speedconcept Gen 3 (disc brake) specific downtube bottle doesnt work on this frame as it comes, however I'll find a way to mod the that bottle cage to fit. That or use the Orbea Ordu OMX or Cervelo downtube bottle.
That looks absolutely on par with any of the big brands recent releases (at, the 'normal' looking ones). Got an Insta page to follow (curious about Lanza results and futher photo's of this machine) :)
(okay, one thing: I'd like the BTA to be horizontal to the toptube and not with the angle of the wedge --> given that you like DIY, I think that's an easy one for you :) )
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(okay, one thing: I'd like the BTA to be horizontal to the toptube and not with the angle of the wedge --> given that you like DIY, I think that's an easy one for you :) )
I agree it would look a heck of a lot more satisfying if it was parallel to top tube, however I like an angle to it so when I’ve got race nutrition in the BTA bottle it won’t leak out the bottle as easy.
You should see some of the other shit house things I’ve done after seeing the arms race the pro triathlon peloton has done with bottles. Pic below is the more tame set ups I did.
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All parts have finally arrived and got the rig set up.
This is so hot. Love the ghetto bottle rig. I've designed a plate that let's me mount it in a similar way. Currently only 3d printed, but I'm looking to have it lasercut somewhere.
What size of the winowsport extensions do you have? And how tall are you? They look nice and long. I'm having some trouble with the original ones from the vb-tt-023 since my arms are quite long
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I agree it would look a heck of a lot more satisfying if it was parallel to top tube, however I like an angle to it so when I’ve got race nutrition in the BTA bottle it won’t leak out the bottle as easy.
You should see some of the other shit house things I’ve done after seeing the arms race the pro triathlon peloton has done with bottles. Pic below is the more tame set ups I did.
Loving the double BTA better (but still prefer it horizontal).
I'm using a DIY alu BTA bridge whateverthingie as well. Also not horizontal, but got the botle in backward. Must say that with the right botle it doesnt leak my nutrition.
Still curious if you have an instagram page to follow :)
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Could someone please post the measurement between the two basebar towers? Center screw to center screw.
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Could someone please post the measurement between the two basebar towers? Center screw to center screw.
Will get you some measurements. I am tempted to hack off the last few rows of holes as they're unused and unnecessary weight. Rather annoyingly the towers are a bit too close together / extensions don't have holes close enough to get my required width to be able to have the bolts mount directly into my d2z spacers.
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Can someone advice on the bottom brackets they used? Almost all parts for my build are ready except the bottom bracket because I cannot find a SRAM DUB bb for the TT-023 frame shell width of 86.5mm. I am running a SRAM Force AXS 1x setup with 165mm DUB Force D2 crankset and Red 1x 50T. Will the SRAM DUB Road T47 bb do the job or I need the Road Wide version? Thanks.
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Can someone advice on the bottom brackets they used? Almost all parts for my build are ready except the bottom bracket because I cannot find a SRAM DUB bb for the TT-023 frame shell width of 86.5mm. I am running a SRAM Force AXS 1x setup with 165mm DUB Force D2 crankset and Red 1x 50T. Will the SRAM DUB Road T47 bb do the job or I need the Road Wide version? Thanks.
NikkoPh is using t47 dub bottom bracket https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5156.msg64449.html#msg64449
The guy in this video used the Sram Dub BSA 68/73 BB, he wrote it in the comments "youtube.com/watch?v=PtYLbQ-97fM"
Could someone please post the measurement between the two basebar towers? Center screw to center screw.
I asked chris from VB. Basebar 400 / 420 / 440mm -> 81,5 / 101,50 / 120,50mm
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I just went to a bike shop near me today. The mechanic managed to fit the SRAM DUB T47 road bb.
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Can someone please messure me the outer diameter of the handlebar end? 24 or 25mm?
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Doneeee. Took longer than expected as I fiddled a lot with the cockpit. Very happy overall but the list of wanted/unnecessary updates is long
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Doneeee. Took longer than expected as I fiddled a lot with the cockpit. Very happy overall but the list of wanted/unnecessary updates is long
nice!
Which Leap S900 Grip Shifter is it, 24 or 25?
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Nice tool Box, where did you get it from?
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nice!
Which Leap S900 Grip Shifter is it, 24 or 25?
Thanks! I wasn't aware there were different sizes. I can measure it for you, but will take until the weekend is over.
Nice tool Box, where did you get it from?
Self designed and 3d printed. :) it's still undergoing a revision since I cannot mount a bottle in the frame any more. But afterwards I'm happy to share the .stl file if you want
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Doneeee. Took longer than expected as I fiddled a lot with the cockpit. Very happy overall but the list of wanted/unnecessary updates is long
Love the paintjob and the cockpit looks super slick. Have you done something to increase the reach? Those bars look alot further forward than they did with the standard VB plate that the extension towers bolt in to.
I tried making my own extension plates with 5mm thick Alu bar and drilling holes in them for where I want but they came out hella flimsy and would definitely snap under real world conditions. I'm trying everything but spending £90 on the FastTT reach extender brackets looks like its going to be required.
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Love the paintjob and the cockpit looks super slick. Have you done something to increase the reach? Those bars look alot further forward than they did with the standard VB plate that the extension towers bolt in to.
Yest, reach extension has probably been the topic that held me up the most while finalising the build.
Hate to be that guy, but please spend 90$ for your safety ;D. I had a mock up setup made with aluminium extrusion for bike fitting purposes during winter on my hometrainer. Once I found my position I spent 90€ on these extensions, as they increase wingspan and reach at the same time:
https://ronwheels.com/gb/accessories/195-adjustment-plates.html
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Thanks! I wasn't aware there were different sizes. I can measure it for you, but will take until the weekend is over.
Self designed and 3d printed. :) it's still undergoing a revision since I cannot mount a bottle in the frame any more. But afterwards I'm happy to share the .stl file if you want
That would be awesome, i am searching for it.
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A question about the seat post.
There are new regulations from the DTU and the “sword” as it is now on the seatpost and as it is also on Canyon will probably be prohibited.
Is there another way to attach water bottles to the seat post? Is there perhaps a cavity like on the Avenger frame here?
https://www.lambda-racing.de/rennraeder
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A question about the seat post.
There are new regulations from the DTU and the “sword” as it is now on the seatpost and as it is also on Canyon will probably be prohibited.
Is there another way to attach water bottles to the seat post? Is there perhaps a cavity like on the Avenger frame here?
https://www.lambda-racing.de/rennraeder
If, and it is a big if, that DTU sanctioned races don’t let you use the saddle mounted bottle cage, just get a saddle mounted system instead.
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That would be awesome, i am searching for it.
I just measured with a caliper. The outer diameter of the basebar is 23,8mm.
Inner diameter of the leap grips is 24,1mm. I used one layer of electrical tape to adjust and make them hold correctly
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All parts have finally arrived and got the rig set up. This is what it looks like pretty much in race set up (1st race is IM Lanza so front mech needed, but will be removed for flatter races).
Made a DIY BTA bottle cage plate from an AliEx carbon plate and a 3 slot bottle age adaptor common in MTBing.
The Trek Speedconcept Gen 3 (disc brake) specific downtube bottle doesnt work on this frame as it comes, however I'll find a way to mod the that bottle cage to fit. That or use the Orbea Ordu OMX or Cervelo downtube bottle.
Hello!
Beautiful build! I have the same frame as you in size S. Can you please tell me if you have more reach with the winosports extensions? I'm hesitating on buying it also the 37cm basebar...
Do you know if there are any alternatives for a integrated base bar (stem and base base in one piece)?
Thanks,
José.
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I've received a PM about the toolbox I have designed 3d printed for the VB-TT-023. If anyone wants the .stl file to print it yourself, feel free to download in on thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6988838 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6988838)
I suggest using PETG for this box, as it offers flexibility aswell as heat stability and UV resistance. Both pieces can be printed without support if you flip them to the flat side in your slicer. You'll need two M5 screws to attach it to the frame. Sadly using this toolbox, you will not be able to mount bottlecages in the frame correctly any more. I haven't found a way yet to circumvent this, but if I do I'll post a new revision.
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I suggest using PETG for this box, as it offers flexibility aswell as heat stability and UV resistance. Both pieces can be printed without support if you flip them to the flat side in your slicer. You'll need two M5 screws to attach it to the frame. Sadly using this toolbox, you will not be able to mount bottlecages in the frame correctly any more. I haven't found a way yet to circumvent this, but if I do I'll post a new revision.
Thanks a lot for this service!
If you have the time and inclination, could you make a second version, extending up to the second threaded hole, so the box has more volume?
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I've received a PM about the toolbox I have designed 3d printed for the VB-TT-023. If anyone wants the .stl file to print it yourself, feel free to download in on thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6988838 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6988838)
I suggest using PETG for this box, as it offers flexibility aswell as heat stability and UV resistance. Both pieces can be printed without support if you flip them to the flat side in your slicer. You'll need two M5 screws to attach it to the frame. Sadly using this toolbox, you will not be able to mount bottlecages in the frame correctly any more. I haven't found a way yet to circumvent this, but if I do I'll post a new revision.
Awesome!
Cautionary tale. 3d printed stuff tends to fail catastrophically in ways injected molded plastic doesnt. I had a 3d printed box behind my seat post on my propel, it worked until it just exploded. So, people, when you use 3d printed parts, be mindful of print orientation / layer lines, material fatigue, stress points, how to reinforce a print with non 3d printed parts like inserts, mesh and so on. Don't be like me, basically. Especially those who just DL free STLs from Thingiverse and send them to print without giving it much thought.
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Hi Riders!
I bought and assembled VB-023-TT with standard cockpit. And I have a problem: the stem don't fixed cockpit properly.
Have anybody same problem? What torque you applied to stem bolts?
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Hi Riders!
I bought and assembled VB-023-TT with standard cockpit. And I have a problem: the stem don't fixed cockpit properly.
Have anybody same problem? What torque you applied to stem bolts?
Princeton wheels with mechanical shifting and mechanical disc brakes? Dude...
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Hi Riders!
I bought and assembled VB-023-TT with standard cockpit. And I have a problem: the stem don't fixed cockpit properly.
Have anybody same problem? What torque you applied to stem bolts?
Can anyone measure the horizontal and vertical diameter of the handlebars against the stem?
I suspect that my handlebars are too small - 31.6mm vertical and 31.3mm horizontal. That's why the stem doesn't grip them properly.
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Just for information, I ordered my TT-023 on the 27th of March and it arrived yesterday (31st). That's just FOUR days, to the UK (with no additional taxes/duty to pay)
Now I just have to decide whether re-use the 11 speed Di2 parts that can be swapped over from my old rim brake bike, or whether to get a new groupset. I see from the Taipei show that L-TWOO have released a new fully wireless TT brake/shifter! But so far no sign of any of their TT components shipping to UK.
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But so far no sign of any of their TT components shipping to UK.
https://www.yoeleocanada.com/products/ltwoo-er9-tt-groupset
This can't ship to you? or yoeleo not canada somehow?
Did you check panda podium? (I didnt).
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https://www.yoeleocanada.com/products/ltwoo-er9-tt-groupset
This can't ship to you? or yoeleo not canada somehow?
Did you check panda podium? (I didnt).
Thank you Serge,
Not on Panda Podium, yet. I saw the Canadian advert, but was particularly interested in the new brake/shifter, hoping that it will combine with the tt-bar shifter to give dual position shifting. I cannot see anything TT related on the L-TWOO website (yet).
I had another look at transferring my Shimano set up and it looks like it will be a pain (as it is now!) Especially keeping the junction box internal. So I will probably go down the SRAM two pairs of blips route with the RideRever (Triva hydraulic TT) brakes. Anyone any feedback on those?
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Princeton wheels with mechanical shifting and mechanical disc brakes? Dude...
How many kmh add hydraulic brakes and electronic shifting?
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Doneeee. Took longer than expected as I fiddled a lot with the cockpit. Very happy overall but the list of wanted/unnecessary updates is long
@mattgold: It looks like you have 150mm spacers under the trailers. Is this still stable or does it wobble a lot under load?
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@mattgold: It looks like you have 150mm spacers under the trailers. Is this still stable or does it wobble a lot under load?
I think you mean the stack towers for the cockpit, and not the bottle stack?
No issues with this setup at all. But I wouldn't ride it without the bridge between the stack towers.
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I had another look at transferring my Shimano set up and it looks like it will be a pain (as it is now!) Especially keeping the junction box internal. So I will probably go down the SRAM two pairs of blips route with the RideRever (Triva hydraulic TT) brakes. Anyone any feedback on those?
I’m running the RideRever Trivia’s and 2 pairs of blips. Works a-ok for me, no complaints really. Don’t have a huge amount of time outdoors logged on them but they seem to do their job.
Will be doing Lanzarote IM on it in 6 weeks time so they will really get put through their paces their.
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I’m running the RideRever Trivia’s and 2 pairs of blips. Works a-ok for me, no complaints really. Don’t have a huge amount of time outdoors logged on them but they seem to do their job.
Will be doing Lanzarote IM on it in 6 weeks time so they will really get put through their paces their.
Can you post photos of how you routed the hydraulic brake cables? My set of riderever triva brakes is still on its way from Japan and I am currently using cable-actuated brakes. And it is not a good experience so far. I have changed the cables twice and the braking power is still not satisfactory. I have routed the brake cables through the top holes of the stem and brought them inside the stock base bar holes on the lower side. It looks ugly and not so aerodynamic. These cable-actuated cables seem to be so hard to bend and go through the stem as hidden/internal routed cables. I am running 1x sram force with wireless blips so the only cables I have are the brake cables.
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Can you post photos of how you routed the hydraulic brake cables?
Sadly not, as you wouldn't see anything. Its entirely internally routed. Through the basebar and than through the back of the hole in the clamping area and through the stem
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Sadly not, as you wouldn't see anything. Its entirely internally routed. Through the basebar and than through the back of the hole in the clamping area and through the stem
Thank you for the info. Since this will be my last resort (full hydraulic brakes) I don’t want to mess it up. You routed the cables from the calipers to the base bars, correct? Or is it the other way around? I am assuming that these hydraulic brake cables are far softer than the jagwire pro brake kit cables (cable actuated) that I initially used.
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Can you post photos of how you routed the hydraulic brake cables? My set of riderever triva brakes is still on its way from Japan and I am currently using cable-actuated brakes. And it is not a good experience so far. I have changed the cables twice and the braking power is still not satisfactory. I have routed the brake cables through the top holes of the stem and brought them inside the stock base bar holes on the lower side. It looks ugly and not so aerodynamic. These cable-actuated cables seem to be so hard to bend and go through the stem as hidden/internal routed cables. I am running 1x sram force with wireless blips so the only cables I have are the brake cables.
This is two brakes mecanical cables and one rear derauler mecanical cable.
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Princeton wheels with mechanical shifting and mechanical disc brakes? Dude...
How does mechanical shifting and mechanical disc brakes affect aerodynamics...
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I pushed the brake lines through the center hole of the basebar. This hides them completely from the wind.
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Thank you for the info. Since this will be my last resort (full hydraulic brakes) I don’t want to mess it up. You routed the cables from the calipers to the base bars, correct? Or is it the other way around? I am assuming that these hydraulic brake cables are far softer than the jagwire pro brake kit cables (cable actuated) that I initially used.
Routed from Caliper up through fork out stem and through basebar. Hmpf's picture above is how mine also looks at the stem-basebar junction box.
I've never used mechanical disc brakes but have heard they are notoriously stiff. I let my local bike shop set up the hydraulic brakes and BB while I did the rest.
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My tt-023 is built and road ready. If anyone would like close-ups of any bits let me know.
The brake lines feed through the bars straight into the headset and through the frame to come out near where the calliper are mounted.
The cables for the gears if not using remote shifters are a little tricky but run down the bars through the arm pads, come out the back under where the elbows would sit then route into the headset through the 2 eye holes. I have electronic remote shifters so didn't run these.
I had my LBS ran the lines as it is a very tight fit (brake lines only, I didn't have the tools). From what they said you need to tighten the levers in first then pull the cables through to the callipers, mounting the front end as you go. The reverse of how it would normally be done. Also the headset top tightens front to back. Otherwise the bull horns don't sit tight enough to hold riders weight.
I have only done 40km on the bike, before having to take time off due to an unrelated injury. Compared to my other TT bike it feels similar maybe a bit more twitchy, but I had high cross winds and the 80 front wheel was just a big sail pushing me all over the place. About to fit a 50 front, hopefully solves some of the twitchy riding.
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I had my LBS ran the lines as it is a very tight fit (brake lines only, I didn't have the tools). From what they said you need to tighten the levers in first then pull the cables through to the callipers, mounting the front end as you go. The reverse of how it would normally be done. Also the headset top tightens front to back. Otherwise the bull horns don't sit tight enough to hold riders weight.
I tried routing the brake ducts from caliper to levers.. but I think the ducts are 'pinched' and the bars don't really turn freely. Just a tad of resistance at the a specific turn angle, probably because of a lack in slack or something. So that approach actually makes sense to me now. Probably ensures better slack and tension at the right places.
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I have a big problem with the stem of my TT023.
It doesn't hold properly, so the basebar twists when there is a strong shock. For example, I have just ridden through a pothole and the basebar has twisted a little in the stem.
As a result, I can no longer brake as the brake cables are crushed.
I have already used carbon assembly paste and tightened all the screws evenly.
Any ideas or other experiences?
I have routed the brake lines from the brake levers to the brake bodies. I also tightened the stem at the bottom front first.
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I have a big problem with the stem of my TT023.
It doesn't hold properly, so the basebar twists when there is a strong shock. For example, I have just ridden through a pothole and the basebar has twisted a little in the stem.
As a result, I can no longer brake as the brake cables are crushed.
I have already used carbon assembly paste and tightened all the screws evenly.
Any ideas or other experiences?
I have routed the brake lines from the brake levers to the brake bodies. I also tightened the stem at the bottom front first.
I had similar issues: the stem would spin on the steerer, and the handlebar would spin in the stem.
I ended up using WELDTITE paste, degreasing the bolts and seat threads, and tightening the bolts to 5.1 Nm crisscross on the handlebars and 5 Nm on the steerer. I contacted the manufacturer and they recommended tightening the bolts to 5.0 Nm-5.58 Nm. I constantly checked the bolts for tightness and tightened them to the target torque. So far, everything is stable.
I would recommend that you first contact the manufacturer with a request and follow their instructions.
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Thank you.
I can't imagine that it will help.
My carbon paste is very good, I already know that from other projects. There are massive differences.
I tightened the screws both crosswise and first on the underside at the front of the stem and then on the top.
But I'm curious to see what the support team writes.
In any case, it's far too tricky if the brakes suddenly fail.
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Thank you.
I can't imagine that it will help.
My carbon paste is very good, I already know that from other projects. There are massive differences.
I tightened the screws both crosswise and first on the underside at the front of the stem and then on the top.
But I'm curious to see what the support team writes.
In any case, it's far too tricky if the brakes suddenly fail.
Another nuance, perhaps it also had significance: I tightened the central bolt last, after tightening the lower and upper bolts.
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Another nuance, perhaps it also had significance: I tightened the central bolt last, after tightening the lower and upper bolts.
Which centralbolt do you mean? The one for the headset?
I also tightened the lower front bolts first and then the upper ones.
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Yeah these are the first release of the Winow extensions paired with a drag 2 zero 15 deg spacer. Generally pretty happy with the extensions. Still yet to sort a garmin mount as I don’t fancy paying the £25 for the winow ones / I like DIYing it.
Have you found a solution for the Garmin holder in the meantime?
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Handlebar problem solved!
The support was great - they sent a new stem and handlebars.
I re-routed the brake lines and used sturdy downhill lines.
I greased the contact surfaces on the handlebars and stem really thickly with carbon grease.
Screws tightened crosswise in 0.2 Nm increments up to 4.4 Nm. Holds bombproof, tested for 530 km, even on potholes.
It was probably due to the paint on the clamping surfaces or the grip film on the handlebars, or it was a material defect. Because I did the same with the old stem and handlebars, also tried till 5Nm and had still the issue.
Just a theory, but now everything fits!
Many thanks for your help and thanks to velobuild!
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Handlebar problem solved!
The support was great - they sent a new stem and handlebars.
Great to hear! Did my first outdoor ride on the bike today.. handlebars slipped and indeed pinched the brake ducts.
Got back home safely, redid the cockpit, and torqued to 4NM.. everything seems to be ok now.
Just another thing: are you handlebars also 'super' flexy? If I'm in the aero position, the flex is not noticeable. But if i hold the bars at the brakes, the flex is super noticeable. Especially when putting power down after corners
I would suspect that the carbon was super stiff.. but apparantly not :)
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The Basebar doesn't flex any more than the carbon handlebars on my road bikes.
The flex was one of the reasons why I switched to carbon. It is more comfortable.
Theoretically, the center of gravity is somewhere else on the TT, so more weight is placed on the basebar. Maybe that's why it works like that.
After fitting the new cockpit, I stood in front of the bike, grabbed the outside of the basebar and pulled and pushed myself up with my whole body weight - as an additional test to make sure everything was really secure.
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I really like this frame and I am considering pulling the trigger and buy it but I just can't figure out where to store gels during IM/70.3 events
I don't like the idea of the box on the top tube because kinda defeats the purpose of having a nice flat stem and top tube.
What real alternatives are there? Does anyone have any picture of their setup?
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I really like this frame and I am considering pulling the trigger and buy it but I just can't figure out where to store gels during IM/70.3 events
I don't like the idea of the box on the top tube because kinda defeats the purpose of having a nice flat stem and top tube.
What real alternatives are there? Does anyone have any picture of their setup?
I thought of this issue too when buying, and my solution is a mixture of Gels in the back pocket and running 2x bottles up front. 1 1L bottle with my carb mix and then 1 small 500ml or elite aero bottle with a load of gels squeezed into it.
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I thought of this issue too when buying, and my solution is a mixture of Gels in the back pocket and running 2x bottles up front. 1 1L bottle with my carb mix and then 1 small 500ml or elite aero bottle with a load of gels squeezed into it.
Same, I'm doing 100% liquid feed as well. Otherwise I'd have gotten the tantan 912, because it has a bento box. I like your cockpit setup! I haven't dared to pull the trigger on the winow bars yet as I am afraid they are too short (fasttt makes an XL variant, winow not..). How tall are you and what bar size you have?
By the way, are you keeping the colored bracelets on your bike so you can shorten the next run during an IM? :D
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@mattgold
You have already provided a very cool toolbox.
Can you show a few more photos of how you solved the cockpit with the BTA bottle?
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Same, I'm doing 100% liquid feed as well. Otherwise I'd have gotten the tantan 912, because it has a bento box. I like your cockpit setup! I haven't dared to pull the trigger on the winow bars yet as I am afraid they are too short (fasttt makes an XL variant, winow not..). How tall are you and what bar size you have?
I am 187 cm (6ft2 ish) and pretty sure I am on the L version (I got these when they first were released by Winow). I've paired them with the FastTT reach extender brackets and they now fit really quite nice.
By the way, are you keeping the colored bracelets on your bike so you can shorten the next run during an IM? :D
haha I never thought about that. I kept them as fuel for the fire after I DNFd that IM and didnt get all the bracelets!
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Hi guys, I´ve been reading this thread as I´m building a bike with this frame.
I have a question: Does the lower headset bearing needs a cap for the frame or it just sits on the steerer tube?
I only got 1 cap in the headset box installation.
Have a nice sunday
Thank you
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I learned so much from this thread (and forum as a whole), so the least I can do it to show you the finished build:
VB-TT-023 build with:
Ultrega crank (with powermeter)
Passquest 50T chainring
Praxis T47 BB
SRAM Rival AXS RD
SRAM wireless blips
Shimano 11-36T cassette
KMC 12s chain
Riderever Trivia brakes
Bontrager COMP5 wheels
Shimano Ultegra 160 disk brakes
Schwalbe one 25mm tires (tubeless)
Bontrager Hilo Comp TT saddle
Bought almost everything (except for like chain/chainring/..) second-hand to reduce the cost. And that got me to a proper finished build at 2.8k
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Hi guys, I´ve been reading this thread as I´m building a bike with this frame.
I have a question: Does the lower headset bearing needs a cap for the frame or it just sits on the steerer tube?
I only got 1 cap in the headset box installation.
Have a nice sunday
Thank you
You need everything on this picture.
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Yeah I don´t have that piece that you marked in the picture. Thanks for the info
Also they sent me 2 threaded pieces for the seat rails, so I can´t adjust the seat to the seat post.
And I had to file the steerer tube because the compression plug won´t sit in the tube, it got stuck halfway.
So I´m having some issues before I can even ride it.
Hope I will ride it someday.
Thanks
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This is how my fork looks inside :-\
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It will ride one day and you will be happy, don't worry.
1. what you call the “compression plug” goes on the bottom of the fork cone. It is the centering ring for the lower bearing. Once you have fitted it, the head tube will no longer rub on the fork ;). (look attached picture)
2. the marked part is the centering ring for the upper bearing. The recess must be at the front for the cable routing.
3. can you explain again about the seat stays or take a photo? I don't quite understand it (may be due to the language, sorry).
4. write to Velobuild Support, they will send you a replacement part very quickly.
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Hi. Sorry english is not my native language.
What I call the compression plug is the insert that goes inside the fork. You can see in the picture that is not going down any further in the fork, so I can´t put the top of the stem.
Thank you for the explanation, I wrote to Vb and they will send me the missing part.
And I will attach a picture with the seat post issue. To clamp the seat, you need a screw and 2 parts. Onepart must not be threaded, only the one in the end of the screw. Mine are both threaded
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I get the feeling that VB is making a lot of errors on this frame, no? I'm following from a distance because fundamentally, i'd like to get a TT bike, but i really, really dont need one, but is it me or a lot of people are having problems with the front end?
Or is it user error mostly?
Like the inside of that steerer looks absolutely horrendous?
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I get the feeling that VB is making a lot of errors on this frame, no? I'm following from a distance because fundamentally, i'd like to get a TT bike, but i really, really dont need one, but is it me or a lot of people are having problems with the front end?
Or is it user error mostly?
Like the inside of that steerer looks absolutely horrendous?
Not sure if this is survivorship bias and people who didn't have issues dont post.
I for myself, did not have any issues building the VB TT 023 and I'm supper happy with it. My VB R 213 on the other hand, did have some quality defects around the bottom bracket and also the mounting points for the disc brake calipers.
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What I call the compression plug is the insert that goes inside the fork. You can see in the picture that is not going down any further in the fork, so I can´t put the top of the stem.
And I will attach a picture with the seat post issue. To clamp the seat, you need a screw and 2 parts. Onepart must not be threaded, only the one in the end of the screw. Mine are both threaded
yes, its called compression plug.
on aliex, theres longer plugs ver too if you want security of propper clamping, if vb again aend kinda short one.
as for the saddle rail clamp, unless they include 2 types of rail clamps (round n oval rails), indeed thats an error of sending 2 threaded side clamp
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I get the feeling that VB is making a lot of errors on this frame, no? I'm following from a distance because fundamentally, i'd like to get a TT bike, but i really, really dont need one, but is it me or a lot of people are having problems with the front end?
Or is it user error mostly?
Like the inside of that steerer looks absolutely horrendous?
Basically, this is normal for frames from Asia in a certain price range: a bit of tinkering and trial and error is simply part of the deal - that's the deal for the low price.
My biggest struggle was the cockpit. The order of the screws was not self-explanatory and the centering ring was missing.
But: Velobuild's support was excellent. I always received a reply within 24 hours, and the missing ring arrived two days later (from China to Germany).
In general, TT cockpits are often fiddly - here too. The Velobuild cockpit is not perfectly thought out, but it is modular. The basebar, for example, has a classic 31.8 mm clamp, so you can easily mount something else if necessary.
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Well maybe I got a lemon. We bought 2 frames with a friend. His frame is perfect, he´s been using his bike for a month now and 0 problems.
Mine came with all of this: a not finish fork which I need to file and sand in order to fit the compression plug; came without the upper cup of the headset and came with the wrong rail oval clamps (the round clamps are ok, but my seat has oval rails). So I can´b build my bike.
I knew that with chinese frame I would have to tinkering but this is not little.
Anyway, I wrote to Velob with photos and they inmediately answer, saying that they will send asap the correct clamps for the saddle and the upper cap of the headset. But didn´t answer anything about the fork.
The problem is where I live, mail and customes takes months, so now I put everything in the box again. Maybe in August I can test it, hoping that everything else is fine.
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I was totally up to tinkering and solving all these tiny issues - as i completely expected from a Chinese frame.
The stuff that challenged me most was also the cockpit.. bars slipped on the first ride (because I "too carefully" torqued them up).
Now with greater torque, everthing seems fine.
Coincidentally, I asked a couple of hours ago to VB for the max torque just to be sure. I will edit it in the post later when they reply =-
I actually never build a bike up before.. but it was surprisingly more straight forwards than expected.
Also had to cut the fork by myself.. but with care that was easily enough.
But.. for sure.. specific torque settings would have given me more confidence in the build stage and test rides :)
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This is the full list of what I bougth to build my bike:
Frame: Velobuild TT-023 U$1100
Wheels: Velobuild Wave 60-25 U$490
BB: Kactus Ceramic SKF U$73
Crankset: Rockbross carbon U$190
Powermeter: Xcadey spider U$330
Chainring: PassQuest aero 52T U$55
Rear D: SRAM RED axs U$350
Cassette: SRAM RED 10-28 U$225
Brakes: TRP HD T-910 U$300
Chain: SRAM RED axs 12s U$60
Shifters: SRAM blips x4 U$200
Disc Rotors: ENLEE 140mm U$45
Tires (for training): Pirelli Pzero 26 U$110
TOTAL (without shipping and customs): U$3.530
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I was totally up to tinkering and solving all these tiny issues - as i completely expected from a Chinese frame.
The stuff that challenged me most was also the cockpit.. bars slipped on the first ride (because I "too carefully" torqued them up).
Now with greater torque, everthing seems fine.
Coincidentally, I asked a couple of hours ago to VB for the max torque just to be sure. I will edit it in the post later when they reply =-
I actually never build a bike up before.. but it was surprisingly more straight forwards than expected.
Also had to cut the fork by myself.. but with care that was easily enough.
But.. for sure.. specific torque settings would have given me more confidence in the build stage and test rides :)
I think that a basic build in their Youtube Channel would be great for them too. I guess most of us that buy the frames are diyers and a simple video could answer most of our questions and could decide a buy for a lot of chinese brands searchers
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The Maximum Torque for Stem ist 5.5 Nm.
But imo its way too much (the Carbon in top Cap ist too think for it). Use a lot of gripper Paste and Go until it doesnt slip anymore under load.
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The Maximum Torque for Stem ist 5.5 Nm.
But imo its way too much (the Carbon in top Cap ist too think for it). Use a lot of gripper Paste and Go until it doesnt slip anymore under load.
Careful with under tightening stem bolts. if you sprint out of the saddle (sudden massive torque through the steerer), or hit something, the stem can shift in a split second, and then good luck not crashing. Dont ask me how i know.
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Also be careful not to overtightend. Otherwise it will "crack" and you will need a new stem.
Don't ask me how I know that :D.