Chinertown
Other Resources => Component Deals & Selection => Topic started by: Wet Noodle on October 19, 2024, 06:30:11 AM
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There are some carbon cranks on ali that look superficially similar to the lexon cranks (and other rebrands), just not quite the same (no indent on the show side, different axle and spider/chainring interface). I didn't find anything on these. Has anybody first-hand experience or are these already discussed somewhere?
Carbon crank arms, aluminium dub spindle, weird two-piece slide-on preload collar contraption, spider/chainring interfaces to the spindle (not the crank arm):
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Scaaee3847e874e67831c9dba3282e397C.jpg)
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S12cea8f6d0f6449d8759d5e8ecfc706aH.jpg)
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S9b65431515794eb093d068066c372767h.jpg)
Cranks and axle seem to go for USD 150 and change regularly, but show up cheaper from time to time.
Suspiciously similar-looking cranks with the same type of axle (including preload collar and spider/chainring interface) are also sold as "Leese".
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Theyre 400 g for crak and spindle, waste of money an material. Leese are 320 and much closer to a Cybrei copy
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According to the product descriptions they'd be 30 g apart (400 vs 370). Where does the 320 g number come from?
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Nvm, mixed up leese and sprill in my head
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Those, I have seen as well, but they are different ... and 3x the price.
Part of the motivation for my initial question was the low price the riros sometimes go for (just yesterday, 135 USD for the bare crankset).
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I’ve been looking them up too, for 150$ with BB and probably a bit less on 11.11, 150g saving is tempting
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I've been using the 24mm alloy spindle Riro carbon cranks on my road and gravel bike with no issue. Those ones are now going for sub $100 USD during the sales. I wouldn't mind trying this new one, but there aren't many chainring options out yet.
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I didint think about the chainring interface…
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So is this a proprietary spider interface?
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So is this a proprietary spider interface?
I think it's a direct mount interface. There aren't many chainring or power meter options available yet.
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I think it's a direct mount interface. There aren't many chainring or power meter options available yet.
Sure, the spider mounts directly to the crank. But it's not an existing standard, is what I mean. Obviously not Sram. Not Raceface or Rotor?
I'd be hesitant to bet on a new standard from some Chinese manufacturer that might be gone in a year or two.
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Sure, the spider mounts directly to the crank. But it's not an existing standard, is what I mean. Obviously not Sram. Not Raceface or Rotor?
I'd be hesitant to bet on a new standard from some Chinese manufacturer that might be gone in a year or two.
I think it is Shimano direct mount. So I also think you can use the Xcadey power meter. But this combo will be a lot more expensive than the older Riro carnkset + P505 power meter.
And that is the reason why I decided to go with that last option last month.
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I think it is Shimano direct mount.
I think that, too. Just for reference, comparison with a wolftooth shimano dm spider:
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S75c072cddc7f46d68306df64081eeda9c.jpg)
(https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/cdn/shop/products/WT-SP-CAMO-SHDM-BST.jpg)
Sidenote: There was at least one listing of presumably the same crank (different branding, I think), where you could choose between 3 or 4 different interface types (meaning different milling on the axle interface, otherwise same construction). But that one was more more expensive.
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Sidenote: There was at least one listing of presumably the same crank (different branding, I think), where you could choose between 3 or 4 different interface types (meaning different milling on the axle interface, otherwise same construction). But that one was more more expensive.
This one? https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwklK5L (https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwklK5L)
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Yea, probably. Wasn't sure anymore which name it had.
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I think it is Shimano direct mount. So I also think you can use the Xcadey power meter. But this combo will be a lot more expensive than the older Riro carnkset + P505 power meter.
And that is the reason why I decided to go with that last option last month.
I just noticed that ZRace, Passquest and Goldix all have 1x Shimano DM chainrings. Though there aren't many 2x chainring options and Magene hasn't adapted the P505 PM to that mount yet.
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That's because it's an MTB standard. These are mtb cranks
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Leese just released a 110BDC 4 arm spider that is compatible with their direct mount cranks.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807719198424.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.5a3bkSG3kSG35R&algo_pvid=3ba74c2e-ee83-4086-9c8c-aa8e89176574&algo_exp_id=3ba74c2e-ee83-4086-9c8c-aa8e89176574-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21331.37%21169.00%21%21%21331.37%21169.00%21%402103244617294787549903493e8000%2112000042789221633%21sea%21US%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=l9WYDHiRWbH0&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A&_gl=1*16btv4g*_gcl_au*MTc5OTg2MTgzMy4xNzI3NzUxMjUw*_ga*MTIyNzg4OTk5NjAwNDA1Ny4xNzI5NDc4MzQxOTI5*_ga_VED1YSGNC7*MTcyOTQ3ODM0NS42LjEuMTcyOTQ3ODc1Ni41OS4wLjA.&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
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I purchased a pair of these RIRO cranks from here:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EudctB2 cost me £119 delivered to UK.
Leese seem to have a pretty much identical option.
The cranks use a dub 29mm(28.99) spindle and the chainrings attach using the shimano direct mount standard, though unlike shimano who I believe use a lockring to attach the chainring, these cranks sandwich the chainring between the crank arm and a flange built in to the spindle.
I believe rotor uses a similar mechanism with their Aldhu cranks.
Unfortunately however, the spindle on mine appears to be undersized, and there is a tiny amount of play in the bottom bracket. I’ve tried two different BB’s with the same result. The spindle is measuring in at 28.92/28.93. So, I’m currently processing a refund. I’d rather the seller would just send a new spindle but that doesn’t seem possible.
A pity as the cranks otherwise seem good, look good (imho) and are very lightweight. 571g (165mm cranks) including spacers and preload ring.
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I purchased a pair of these RIRO cranks from here:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EudctB2 cost me £119 delivered to UK.
Leese seem to have a pretty much identical option.
The cranks use a dub 29mm(28.99) spindle and the chainrings attach using the shimano direct mount standard, though unlike shimano who I believe use a lockring to attach the chainring, these cranks sandwich the chainring between the crank arm and a flange built in to the spindle.
I believe rotor uses a similar mechanism with their Aldhu cranks.
Unfortunately however, the spindle on mine appears to be undersized, and there is a tiny amount of play in the bottom bracket. I’ve tried two different BB’s with the same result. The spindle is measuring in at 28.92/28.93. So, I’m currently processing a refund. I’d rather the seller would just send a new spindle but that doesn’t seem possible.
A pity as the cranks otherwise seem good, look good (imho) and are very lightweight. 571g (165mm cranks) including spacers and preload ring.
Are you sure you are not using a 30mm BB or you need to use plastic spacers between bearings and spindle?
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Yes I am 100% Sure. I purchased both bottom brackets myself, they are both DUB bottom brackets. If they were BB30, there would be about 1mm of play which is massive, and the crank would be incredibly loose. This is much much smaller, but ultimately there should be no play in a BB. In terms of spacers between bearing and spindle, neither BB camewith any additional spacers, and were both fitted as per instructions.
The currently fitted BB: https://primebikecomponents.com/products/bb386-bottom-bracket-sram-dub
I’ve also correctly spaced and preloaded the cranks, and maybe I didn’t make it clear but I’m not talking about lateral play (which would be the case if the cranks weren’t preloaded correctly) but vertical play up and down because there is not a proper fit between the spindle and inner race of the BB. I’ve measured both the BB’s I’ve used and they are within tolerance. The BB’s themselves have no play, (they are both new) which could be another explanation.
Photos attached.
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You could probably try Loctite bearing retaining compound which not only keeps the axle in place but is also designed to fill any inconsistency in fitment. I’ve successfully glued in bottom brackets in pretty oversized bottom bracket shells like that. But I’ve never used it on crank spindles. But it could be worth a shot if there’s no other option.
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You could probably try Loctite bearing retaining which not only keeps the axle in place but is also designed to fill any inconsistency in fitment. I’ve successfully glued in bottom brackets in pretty oversized bottom bracket shells like that. But I’ve never used it on crank spindles. But it could be worth a shot if there’s no other option.
That’s an interesting suggestion. I bought these off AiExpress ‘choice’ and so I’m able to send them back for a full refund, postage paid. So will probably do that. I may order a new pair from another seller.
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The manufacturer for LEESE actually made more versions of the spindle that take sram 3 bolt, 8 bolt and easton chainrings but they dont seem to be for sale on aliexpress nor taobao.
Theyre visible in this ali listing but they're unavailable. same with on their taobao listing
maybe they had them produced but the sandwich mechanism for these interfaces didnt work? the three bolt and 8 bolt spindles have the cutout but there is nowhere to bolt the chainring on
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005007905513176.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.35337a2cxGc3AL&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21US%20%24331.37%21US%20%24169.00%21%21%21331.37%21169.00%21%400b5dcc3217332874830564097e8cd3%2112000044005944424%21sh%21US%21110081474%21X&gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm4itemAdapt
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The manufacturer for LEESE actually made more versions of the spindle that take sram 3 bolt, 8 bolt and easton chainrings but they dont seem to be for sale on aliexpress nor taobao.
Theyre visible in this ali listing but they're unavailable. same with on their taobao listing
That is interesting, I would prefer the 3 bolt GXP connection for the chainrings, it's pretty universal on Ali and easy to get hold of spare chainrings. That said, perhaps this will become more popular? Though aparrently this 'sandwich' mechanism is quite hard to manufacture. You can see a discussion of this in reference to the Rotor Aldhu cranks here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PX6nbV9s7SU
It's worth mentioning that there are 5 bolt 110 and 130 bcd spiders for these cranks, as well as the 4 bolt shimano compatible ones that Leese is selling. Just a pity that no sellers seem to have these parts available to purchase without buying the crankset as well.
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Just a quick update: I ended up purchasing a 'genuine' sram dub BB, I'd read somewhere about a sram rep saying that dub cranks should only be used with their own BB's. Sure, that sounds like marketing BS but I thought I'd give it a go anyhow, and to my surprise the cranks fit perfectly now with zero play. There's also no need for any additional spacers (aside from the 2mm 'road' spacer on the right side and the preload adjustment ring on the left) as the BB protudes slightly further outside the frame.
One other benefit is the plastic covers on the inner bearing races, that may help protect the aluminium spindle from wear.
the other two BB's that did have play were a Prime BB and a Z-Race BB that I purchased from Ali.
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The manufacturer for LEESE actually made more versions of the spindle that take sram 3 bolt, 8 bolt and easton chainrings but they dont seem to be for sale on aliexpress nor taobao.
Theyre visible in this ali listing but they're unavailable. same with on their taobao listing
maybe they had them produced but the sandwich mechanism for these interfaces didnt work? the three bolt and 8 bolt spindles have the cutout but there is nowhere to bolt the chainring on
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005007905513176.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.35337a2cxGc3AL&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21US%20%24331.37%21US%20%24169.00%21%21%21331.37%21169.00%21%400b5dcc3217332874830564097e8cd3%2112000044005944424%21sh%21US%21110081474%21X&gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm4itemAdapt
They had them in stock right before the 11/11 sale, but they sold out quickly once the sale started. I was tempted by the three bolt as that is the interface of my magene PM.
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They had them in stock right before the 11/11 sale, but they sold out quickly once the sale started. I was tempted by the three bolt as that is the interface of my magene PM.
Looks like these are available again: https://aliexpi.com/Rwc1
as well as full chainrings: https://aliexpi.com/YL57
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I'm very much liking the looks of the new Riro cranks, as I want to move to 165mm cranks on my Ultegra 8100 equipped race bike. But I want to use the original rings. I'm struggling to find someone that sells just the Shimano interface to 4 bolt 110 BCD spider. Anyone have any ideas? Would I just be better to get Lexon where they come out of the box like that?
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Anymore experiences with this crank?
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Hi, I have a question for the owners of this cranks: is it possible to mount it in BSA 73mm frame, or in general in the MTB frame? I found at Ali.. the comment that it is possible with some trick, but without any farther explanation. Any ideas? Is the spindle longer than road standard?
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Hi, I have a question for the owners of this cranks: is it possible to mount it in BSA 73mm frame, or in general in the MTB frame? I found at Ali.. the comment that it is possible with some trick, but without any farther explanation. Any ideas? Is the spindle longer than road standard?
Exposed spindle lenght is about 94mm with preload ring. I managed to mount it to my BB92 Mountainbike Bottom bracket.
BUT: It wouldnt fit with the Adjustment/preload ring. I dont use that but preload it with spacers. This means the Crank isnt perfectly centered. i adjust that with pedal spacers on the left side.
So its a huge bodge fpr BB92, i fear BSA73 might even be a mm wider (took a quick measurement from my other bike)
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Great info, thanks. Would you measure the difference between left "q-factor" and right one? It can be the distance from frame to crankarm. I wonder what is the offset from central bike axis. If not much, I'll go for it.
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Great info, thanks. Would you measure the difference between left "q-factor" and right one? It can be the distance from frame to crankarm. I wonder what is the offset from central bike axis. If not much, I'll go for it.
Its 3mm off-center, so one side has 6mm more (measured to a central bottle cage bolt).
so after a Pedal washer you have about 2mm to shift (if you ride flat pedals or your current cleat position is in the middle it could be doable).
During the process i measured another crank on a road bike (with an adjustment ring) - it looks its 1+mm off center too and i didnt recognize it for several 1000 kilometers.
Hope that helps :)
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Yes, it is very helpful. Thanks a lot!
I think I wouldn't even feel 3-4mm offset. Maybe most of us is riding with not centered cranks...
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Is anyone running this crank as a 1-by? Did it work correctly, and what chainring did you opt for? the goldix?
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Spotted this on rednote. Failed under normal use with 900w peak power and no crashes nor abnormal impacts
On the bright side, they got an warranty replacement quickly and easily
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I got the same Crankset. Bought it for the weight savings. I had some struggle to get it fixed at first. It losend up several times even tho I used the specified force. After everal attempts it finally stayed in place.
After about 3000 Kilometers (and about 6month) a part of the left arm broke and is now lose. But at least they partial refunded me about 40%.
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Doe anyone know If this broken piece can be found somewhere (post above).. Looks Like the disc rotor lock screw but is minimal smaller.
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Im using riro 24mm cranks for around 5k kms. No issues so far. I hope they last another year or two. Don't want to use 29mm spindle in bb86 pf. Bb is ztto thread together pf. Doesn't last as my Shimano MTB bb, but it's good fit and no unwanted sound. Spins rather freely, whereas on Shimano pf cranks wouldn't spin good. I'm guessing velo build had a bit tighter bb shell.
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If I could replace this piece I can still use the crank set. It's a shame to throw it away for such a small part. Any Idea where to look for such a thing?
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If I could replace this piece I can still use the crank set. It's a shame to throw it away for such a small part.
I'm not completely sure, what the first picture (previous post) is showing, but I guess the top part of the extractor cap broke off, leaving the threaded part behind in the crank - is that correct? In this case, shouldn't the crank still be usable as is? You just can't pull it (unless you remove the thread and put in the intact cap of the other crank arm, which you took off (without breaking it) for the second/third picture, I assume).
Don't trust me, just crystal balling here.
Apart from that, the way this thing looks, your best bet would be the manufacturer ... or have it made as a turning job.
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If I could replace this piece I can still use the crank set. It's a shame to throw it away for such a small part. Any Idea where to look for such a thing?
Any luck here? I have the same issue. It did not break but I guess it loosened up while riding and that piece is now missing from my crank set. I sent them a message to see if they can ship me a replacement. I’ll update on what they say.
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I have rockbros dub crank and my bolt broke when removing the crank, however i replaced both bolt and extractor cap
I used cybrei gp3 replacement bolts and they are the same as rockbros
https://spartsti.com/products/products-chaser-ultralight-cybrei-gp3-crank-bolt-set
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Any luck here? I have the same issue. It did not break but I guess it loosened up while riding and that piece is now missing from my crank set. I sent them a message to see if they can ship me a replacement. I’ll update on what they say.
Any update ? facing the same issue
Also how did you manage to remove it ? I'd like to remove the one that is still here to be able to remove the crankset but I cannot remove it. I'm using a shimano casette tool and copious amount of force but it doesn't want to move
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Any update ? facing the same issue
Also how did you manage to remove it ? I'd like to remove the one that is still here to be able to remove the crankset but I cannot remove it. I'm using a shimano casette tool and copious amount of force but it doesn't want to move
Got back to it tonight and realised it's reverse threaded. Managed to take it off !