Chinertown
Other Resources => Component Deals & Selection => Topic started by: pavlo.k on November 08, 2024, 03:26:05 PM
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Does anyone have experience with Riro carbon crankset with 24mm aluminium axle?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007344893638.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007344893638.html)
Thinking about getting one on for my new build. The frame has bb86 bb shell and I don't really want to go for a dub crank.
Was looking around for some lighter 24mm axle cranks and could only find this Riro crank and a raceworks one.
Any feedback on how those axles hold up?
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I have three of them in use. They all are fine. You will probably have to experiment with BB's. I had a Ali BB in my BSA frame and it was too wide. The Shimano BSA BB's are a little narrower and those do fit.
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Does anyone have experience with Riro carbon crankset with 24mm aluminium axle?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007344893638.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007344893638.html)
Thinking about getting one on for my new build. The frame has bb86 bb shell and I don't really want to go for a dub crank.
Was looking around for some lighter 24mm axle cranks and could only find this Riro crank and a raceworks one.
Any feedback on how those axles hold up?
Hey mate, I have a Riro at the 50/34 chainring. Has around 500km on it so far, so I cant comment on longevity. No issues installing, I do have a T47-79BB.
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I have three of them in use. They all are fine. You will probably have to experiment with BB's. I had a Ali BB in my BSA frame and it was too wide. The Shimano BSA BB's are a little narrower and those do fit.
I'm using 3 Riro/Racework cranksets as well. No issue with the 24mm alloy axle and I use these cranks on two road bikes and a gravel bike. Though the same issues with BB size is a concern. If the BB is too wide, it won't fit properly. I had to switch back to the Shimano BBR60 threaded BB and BBR72 PF BBs to have them fit across my different frames.
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I'm using 3 Riro/Racework cranksets as well. No issue with the 24mm alloy axle and I use these cranks on two road bikes and a gravel bike. Though the same issues with BB size is a concern. If the BB is too wide, it won't fit properly. I had to switch back to the Shimano BBR60 threaded BB and BBR72 PF BBs to have them fit across my different frames.
how wide is too wide? I'm planning to use a token bb86 thread together bb. It's probably same width as a shimano pressfit bb86 bottom bracket.
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how wide is too wide? I'm planning to use a token bb86 thread together bb. It's probably same width as a shimano pressfit bb86 bottom bracket.
Damn, I just took apart the crank on my gravel bike yesterday. Had I seen your post before that I would have measured.
The difference is only about 1mm, but with the wider BB the bearings will seize when tightening the bolt before it is tight enough.
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they're fine. the only caveat is that it doesn't come with any indication of the bolt torque, which is not much. I ended up stripping it but I found a way to replace it
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they're fine. the only caveat is that it doesn't come with any indication of the bolt torque, which is not much. I ended up stripping it but I found a way to replace it
that's weird. This type of crank mount usually requires 35-40nm of torque.
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Ordered the crankset on 11.11, paid 75$ and already received it just a week later.
Looks very good, super light as well. Too bad they only come in a single crank length but hey, hard to complain considering the price. Mine has torque spec printed on the crankarm bolt which is 35-40nm.
A bit concerned about the alu axle but there's only one way to find out if it holds up.
I also replaced the original full contact bb bearings in my token ninja bb with 25mm internal diameter bearings and installed plastic dust caps like on the shimano bbs to minimize the potential wear on the axle,
weight on the picture is with 52-36 chanrings
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Have this on the way as well, just seeing the discussion around bbs, will a standard 24mm BB work on this?
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Have this on the way as well, just seeing the discussion around bbs, will a standard 24mm BB work on this?
I've had success using the Ultegra Shimano BBR60 threaded BB and SM-BB72-41B pressfit BB. Though I've had the Riro crankset seize up on a Kactus ceramic threaded BB and ZTTO pressfit threaded BB. So I'm presuming it depends on the bearings/cup width in the BB.
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I installed these cranks today and I think I know the reason they were seizing up for some people. Its because of the flawed preload ring desing(the one on the non drive side). Its too wide so when I tried to preload the bearings with it, it was contacting the bb shell instead of the bearings effectively seizing up the crank.I've put a 0.5mm pastic spacer betweet the preload ring and the bb so that this spacer is pushing on the bearings when I adjust the preload. I use BB92 pressfit bb.
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That’s for the MTB version, right?
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Ordered the crankset on 11.11, paid 75$ and already received it just a week later.
Looks very good, super light as well. Too bad they only come in a single crank length but hey, hard to complain considering the price. Mine has torque spec printed on the crankarm bolt which is 35-40nm.
A bit concerned about the alu axle but there's only one way to find out if it holds up.
I also replaced the original full contact bb bearings in my token ninja bb with 25mm internal diameter bearings and installed plastic dust caps like on the shimano bbs to minimize the potential wear on the axle,
weight on the picture is with 52-36 chanrings
Who did you buy from to get that price?!
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There's a reason that Shimano 24mm axles are made of steel. They are just not strong enough. Dub axles at 29mm can be aluminum but of course they are much bigger and therefore stronger.
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There's a reason that Shimano 24mm axles are made of steel. They are just not strong enough. Dub axles at 29mm can be aluminum but of course they are much bigger and therefore stronger.
Hambini did a video on this and argued that it can be done if the wall
Thickness is thick enough and the aluminium grain structure is consistent enough. However you still have the problem of steel bearings wearing on the axle as it happens with all aluminium crank spindles over time. And then I wonder just how much of a weight advantage there’s left if you built an aluminium crank spindle sturdy enough in 24mm. I think there’s also a reason why until now every aluminium spindle was oversized, BB30 or DUB. Same reason why aluminium bike frames are oversized when compared to steel. Stiffness to weight qualities of aluminium just work better that way.
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Hambini did a video on this and argued that it can be done if the wall
Thickness is thick enough and the aluminium grain structure is consistent enough. However you still have the problem of steel bearings wearing on the axle as it happens with all aluminium crank spindles over time. And then I wonder just how much of a weight advantage there’s left if you built an aluminium crank spindle sturdy enough in 24mm. I think there’s also a reason why until now every aluminium spindle was oversized, BB30 or DUB. Same reason why aluminium bike frames are oversized when compared to steel. Stiffness to weight qualities of aluminium just work better that way.
The Riro/Racework 24mm carbon crankset is about 388g (ver. 1 was about 377g) and the Goldix hollowed out alloy crankset is about 477g. I also have the Racework/ZRace 24mm steel axle crankset and that one is about 560 +/-. I keep that one around just in case one of my alloy axle spindles has a failure, but no problems so far. All are 3 bolt cranksets. Carbon crank arms save about 100g and going with a 24mm alloy axle saves another 80-100g. I guess the Chinese crankset makers could make a carbon crankset with steel axle, but they probably figure the weight savings wouldn't be worth the hassle. Though that would probably silence all the alloy axle naysayers!
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I had to return the crankset. The problem metioned earlier about the cranks seizing up the bb was happening on 3 different bikes with 3 different bbs. ztto threaded pressfit and token ninja would seize up completely even without the preload ring installed. On shimano bb92 pressfit bb the crank was still moving but was very tight, definitely overloading the bearing.
I think it's either the axle that's too short or the actual material of the axle is too soft so when it's toruqed correctly, the driveside crankarm sits deeper on the splines that it should.
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I had to return the crankset. The problem metioned earlier about the cranks seizing up the bb was happening on 3 different bikes with 3 different bbs. ztto threaded pressfit and token ninja would seize up completely even without the preload ring installed. On shimano bb92 pressfit bb the crank was still moving but was very tight, definitely overloading the bearing.
I think it's either the axle that's too short or the actual material of the axle is too soft so when it's toruqed correctly, the driveside crankarm sits deeper on the splines that it should.
Looks like a Shimano BSA BB is your best bet to get this working. I use 3 of these cranks on this type of BB and no problems.
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I'm curious how Trace Velo got his Riro 24mm crankset to work with a BB86 threaded PF on his OG-Evkin frameset? It seized up when I tried using it on BB86 frame and the Mangoe Cycling store who seems to be the biggest seller of the crankset, told me to stick with threaded BSA.
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I had to return the crankset. The problem metioned earlier about the cranks seizing up the bb was happening on 3 different bikes with 3 different bbs. ztto threaded pressfit and token ninja would seize up completely even without the preload ring installed. On shimano bb92 pressfit bb the crank was still moving but was very tight, definitely overloading the bearing.
I think it's either the axle that's too short or the actual material of the axle is too soft so when it's toruqed correctly, the driveside crankarm sits deeper on the splines that it should.
Here's my experience: shimano bb was too tight on my 268 bb shell. Or probably, and most likely, vb 268 bb shell was a bit too tight for plastic bb, so the bearings got squeezed more then they should. I then installed ztto threaded bb and when I torqued the riro cranks, they would seeze and not spin well. I then noticed that I could tighten the bb cups a bit more. They were pretty close to the frame shell, but still had just tiny bit of room left to sit really fluish to the frame. So I tightened them just a bit more...
then, I could tighten the cranks pretty tight without seezing. So they really need to be on the point with the bb width in order to be tightened to the specd torque. I've been rinding them, now about 500kms, they work pretty darn well.
However, I have one question. The bolt that's on the drive side, one that had the torque specs written on it, I would like to buy one spare cause I think I saw trace velo said on one of his videos that it failed on him, but I don't know what video was that... Is it same as ordinary DUB crank bolt?
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Hope it's gonna last more than I think :-X
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I just confirmed 100%, the Riro/Racework 24mm axle cranksets do fit T47 internal cup 86.5mm bottom bracket shells! Fits perfect like a glove. This is good news for anyone getting a T47 86.5mm frameset. Though I still can't confirm if this crankset will fit the T47 68mm external BB cups or the T47 73mm external/internal cup framesets.
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My Racework crankset (same as the Riro) has broke. The non drive side crank arm which holds the axle is now loose. When applying pressure I can feel movement. It appears whatever they use to bond the axle isn’t holding in place.
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I just confirmed 100%, the Riro/Racework 24mm axle cranksets do fit T47 internal cup 86.5mm bottom bracket shells! Fits perfect like a glove. This is good news for anyone getting a T47 86.5mm frameset. Though I still can't confirm if this crankset will fit the T47 68mm external BB cups or the T47 73mm external/internal cup framesets.
Just fitted a Riro crank on a T47 bottom bracket, 68mm wide (ZTTO T47-24X).
Installation went fine, slight gap after tightening the crank arm bolt, adjusted the play with the preload adjuster - spins smoothly.
Winter here in Europe, Germany, so no significant testing of the crank done, yet.
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My Racework crankset (same as the Riro) has broke. The non drive side crank arm which holds the axle is now loose. When applying pressure I can feel movement. It appears whatever they use to bond the axle isn’t holding in place.
I contacted the seller and showed videos of the defect. They said they'll contact the factory and will see about getting a replacement. I wasn't expecting much, but I figure it wouldn't hurt to ask, so I'm crossing fingers that they'll send me a new left crank arm w/axle.
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The vendor contacted me about my defected crank arm and said it'd be $50 shipped directly from the factory. I'm still debating if it's worth the $50 USD and I would still be using the original drive side crank arm. Either that or just wait until the next AliEx sale and get a new Riro carbon crankset for not much more money (it was $85 USD last sale + coupon).
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Does anyone know if there is an adapter for the riro 29mm crank interface going to shimano 4 bolt? I really want to get these cranks especially now as they're around £90! but I want to be able to use my existing chainrings with them.
If there's an adapter a link would be great!
Is what I'm looking for just a Shimano microspline to Shimano 4 bolt spider?
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Just get the Racework 29mm crankset version with the 3 bolt interface and then get a 4 bolt adapter:
Racework 29mm crankset:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808278866012.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808278866012.html)
3 bolt to 4 bolt adapter (1x and 2x compatible):
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804611587840.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804611587840.html)
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You could the Leese that come with the 4bolt adapter as standard. More choice of length than the Raceworks, and the cost will come in similar by the time you've added in the adaptor. I also prefer the graphics on the Leese.
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Just get the Racework 29mm crankset version with the 3 bolt interface and then get a 4 bolt adapter:
Racework 29mm crankset:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808278866012.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808278866012.html)
3 bolt to 4 bolt adapter (1x and 2x compatible):
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804611587840.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804611587840.html)
Those yellow graphics are too ugly
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For 50 grams or so I'd just get a used Sram gxp or Quarq branded crank. Sameish money used and with a track record. And with a steel spindle.
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Those yellow graphics are too ugly
That's what black tape is for! ;D
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You could the Leese that come with the 4bolt adapter as standard. More choice of length than the Raceworks, and the cost will come in similar by the time you've added in the adaptor. I also prefer the graphics on the Leese.
I bought the Leese last night to pair with some Sprill chainrings for AXS. Really crossing my fingers that it will work. $185 was my total and thought it was worth the try
Was chatting with the vendor last night and when asked if they're of good quality
"We have been selling for 2 years, with sales exceeding a thousand, and have never experienced any quality issues"
Their warranty is 2 yrs but just like any Chinese vendor that's a huge caveat
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Quick question, is the 29mm version conpatible with a BSA bottom bracket? It does not say so in all the listings I've seen on Ali.
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Quick question, is the 29mm version conpatible with a BSA bottom bracket? It does not say so in all the listings I've seen on Ali.
Sure, you just need DUB standard BSA BB.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806250808374.html
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Side note: some don't like DUB on BSA as the bearings are slightly smaller and *could* wear out more quickly. Personally, dont know about that but just wanted to leave it here, in case it matters to someone.
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Just a heads up for those who might have seizing issues using certain bottom bracket with the Riro crankset. Awhile back I was having issues using my Riro crankset with my BB86 frame using a ZTTO thread together bottom bracket. I noticed with the preload adjuster ring (on the non-drive side crank arm), it would seize up when trying to tighten the crank. I opted to remove the preload adjuster all-together, and lo and behold it fit. Though I'm wondering what might be causing the crank to seize considering there is perhaps less than .5mm of difference with and without the preload adjuster? As mentioned on here before, it might have to do with certain bearing sizes?
Anyways, the next issue is that it leave the adjuster threads on the crank arm exposed. I ended up using a black flat rubber band that come with new tires. The ones I have (rubber band from a set of Panaracer tires) was a perfect fit to cover the threads and when the crankset is torqued to spec, creates a nice weather seal.
Hope this helps for those who might be having issues!
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Just a heads up for those who might have seizing issues using certain bottom bracket with the Riro crankset. Awhile back I was having issues using my Riro crankset with my BB86 frame using a ZTTO thread together bottom bracket. I noticed with the preload adjuster ring (on the non-drive side crank arm), it would seize up when trying to tighten the crank. I opted to remove the preload adjuster all-together, and lo and behold it fit. Though I'm wondering what might be causing the crank to seize considering there is perhaps less than .5mm of difference with and without the preload adjuster? As mentioned on here before, it might have to do with certain bearing sizes?
Anyways, the next issue is that it leave the adjuster threads on the crank arm exposed. I ended up using a black flat rubber band that come with new tires. The ones I have (rubber band from a set of Panaracer tires) was a perfect fit to cover the threads and when the crankset is torqued to spec, creates a nice weather seal.
Hope this helps for those who might be having issues!
Which version of the Riro crankset do you have? The 24mm or the newer DUB?
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Which version of the Riro crankset do you have? The 24mm or the newer DUB?
This hack is specifically for th 24mm Riro crankset. I currently use a 3 bolt Magene PM, so the 24mm version works for my use. It’s also cheaper.