Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: Stubbie Blue on February 03, 2025, 05:15:30 PM
-
Got it from AliExpress, BXT Official Store. Chameleon paint so it's brown in direct sunlight, green when the sun hits it at an angle, and pretty much black in low light. I requested a smaller BXT logo on the top tube instead of the down tube, and no headset label and they complied. It took 18 days from order to delivery by FedEx, which they asked me to pay $40 extra for.
The 52 cm frame weighed 962 g with no bottom bracket, headset or axles, but with the front and rear derailleur hangers. The fork weighed 408 g after I cut it. Final build weight 8.8 kg/19.4 lb. It's really just a spare parts bin bike so I didn't put any effort into reducing weight.
[Update 7/4/25, pictures on page 2]
Did a few upgrades:
- EliteWheels Edge 50mm deep, 1,362g for both.
- GP 5000 700x28c tires, 250g each.
- Magene PES P515 Power Meter, 165mm cranks with Ultegra R8100 52-36T chainrings, 784g total.
Bike now weighs 8.08kg/17.81 lb with Shimano PD-M520 pedals (380g) and all bottle cages and mounts.
The groupset is Tiagra 2x10 speed with hydraulic disc brakes, but with a 105 FD-R7100 front derailleur because the frame only has a large hole for a front derailleur cable with outer housing. Oh and you only get a grommet for the rear brake hose. No grommets for the rear or front derailleurs or front brake. The integrated handlebars were a real pain to do with 4 hoses, but I think it was worth it for the clean look. The gloss black handlebars show scratches easily, but I was able to polish them out by hand.
The top headset bearing didn't quite sit flat. It rocks a bit forwards and backwards. But I got it to stop rocking by tightening it while pulling the frame back against the front brakes. Also the included T47 68 mm bottom bracket was very tight for my Tiagra crankset. I actually knocked the non-drive side bearing out while attempting to tap the crankset in with a mallet. I got the bearing back in but I'll probably just order a new bottom bracket.
Overall I'm very happy with this bike.
[Update 12/6/25, pictures on page 3]
Converted this bike to an e-bike with a TruckRun RN04 250W thru-axle hub motor.
-
Did you install the 12 speed 105 front derailleur (r7100) or the 11 speed (r7000)?
-
Did you install the 12 speed 105 front derailleur (r7100) or the 11 speed (r7000)?
not sure what OP did, but I installed an 11 speed FD on my older Tiagra bike. It had the same pull ratio as the Tiagra one.
-
Did you install the 12 speed 105 front derailleur (r7100) or the 11 speed (r7000)?
Yep it's the FD-R7100 for 12 speed. Works fine.
-
not sure what OP did, but I installed an 11 speed FD on my older Tiagra bike. It had the same pull ratio as the Tiagra one.
Yep, I did it also multiple time, I was just surprised it would also work with the new 12s derailleur.
-
bike looks great, been looking at the same frame...can see you have a 52 how tall are you?
-
bike looks great, been looking at the same frame...can see you have a 52 how tall are you?
I'm 5'7" or 170 cm with a 78-79 cm in-seam (barefoot, floor to crotch). You can compare fitment to a Tarmac SL7 of course, but you may see some discrepancies depending on if they measure the stack and reach of just the frame (BXT) or with the mandatory transition spacer (the Tarmac lists this separately as Stack and Reach to Stem). Also, I did have to cut the seat post because you must not let it go down to the part of the seat tube that has the indent for the rear wheel.
-
Oh and just a couple more photos for good measure, and because this might be my last build due to the uncertainty over tariffs.
-
Finally got my BXT built :)
-
Finally got my BXT built :)
Hello all,
I am new on the forum and interested by a BXT SL-115, what do you think of the ride ?
-
Finally got my BXT built :)
Great build (but looks like your rear tire is mounted the wrong way around) :)
-
Hello all,
I am new on the forum and interested by a BXT SL-115, what do you think of the ride ?
It rides nice. I slammed the stem mostly for the look and it's easy to get low and aero even on the hoods. But this also makes the steering more twitchy because there's more weight on the front wheel than I'm used to. I also get some toe overlap with the front wheel with a 52 cm frame and 170 mm cranks.
-
Love this paint does it have a specific code or name? I just finished building up a pro 145 frame and had Id seen this would have heavily leaned towards it. Also found the BB it came with extremely tight, actually could not get my 105 crankset in and ended up having to swap it.
How does this frame feel for climbing and is it endurance friendly?
-
Love this paint does it have a specific code or name? I just finished building up a pro 145 frame and had Id seen this would have heavily leaned towards it. Also found the BB it came with extremely tight, actually could not get my 105 crankset in and ended up having to swap it.
How does this frame feel for climbing and is it endurance friendly?
I got it from AliExpress so it's just called chameleon gloss color #04 (green and brown) in the attached picture, but sometimes they switch around the numbers.
Well I live in South Florida and there are no hills here so I can't really speak about climbing. I guess the frame at 962g is not too heavy, and if you put lighter components instead of my Tiagra crankset (940g), and lightweight carbon wheels, then it should be good for climbing. I can at least say that when I'm out of the saddle, putting power down for sprints, it feels nice and stiff.
My main bike is actually a Cannondale Synapse endurance bike with the handlebars only about 10 mm lower than the saddle and I find that much more comfortable for long rides. So I guess if you don't slam the stem of the BXT 115 then it should be fine as well.
-
Do think this could have enough clearance for a 35mm gravel tire?
-
Do think this could have enough clearance for a 35mm gravel tire?
I have a 700x30c (32mm actual width) tire in the photos and it's already getting close at the front fork. So I'd say 32mm is the max.
-
Did a few upgrades:
- EliteWheels Edge 50mm deep, 1,362g for both.
- GP 5000 700x28c tires, 250g each.
- Magene PES P515 Power Meter, 165mm cranks with Ultegra R8100 52-36T chainrings, 784g total.
Bike now weighs 8.08kg/17.81 lb with Shimano PD-M520 pedals (380g) and all bottle cages and mounts.
-
Added some decals ;)
-
You put a brand name on the down tube when the actual brand name is clearly visible on the top tube. Why?
-
Chill out guys. It's my bike, and I'll do whatever I want with it.
-
Was much better without the decals, they look extra fake. And illegal. If you want decals consider making something unique to you, it's much nicer.
I've wondered about getting "Specialised" but in the Specialized font.
-
I've wondered about getting "Specialised" but in the Specialized font.
British spelling right? Shouldn't be too hard to copy and paste the first S instead of the Z. Or you could just buy 2 sets of decals and cut them up yourself.
-
I would maybe then write Specializt in the Specialized font.
Or, as i've suggested before, ASS-WORKS in S-WORKS font. Now that would be proper trolling.
I prefered the « T-Werks » option
-
Are the BXT ROAD-115 and SL-115 the same product? Both model numbers are listed on the Alibaba page.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/BXT-Carbon-Fiber-Road-Bicycle-Light_1601224188622.html
If there is a difference between them, what is it?
-
Are the BXT ROAD-115 and SL-115 the same product? Both model numbers are listed on the Alibaba page.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/BXT-Carbon-Fiber-Road-Bicycle-Light_1601224188622.html
If there is a difference between them, what is it?
I think they are the same.
-
This is also my impression. The weights on the BXT homepage are not consistent; e.g. Model 155 is mentioned as 900 or 990 gr., but if you look at the detailled description, it is 900 gr.
My BXT SL-115 was real 1'000 gr in size M with the derailleur hangers and the screws for the bottle cages.
-
I purchased the BXT SL-115 and received it recently. The part shown in the attached image was not included — is that normal? Also, I’m not sure where the part in the second image should go between the front fork and the frame. Please help me. Thank you very much.
-
First picture is the Cring, you need it
Second picture is the race crown, goes between your fork and the lower headset bearing.
-
I purchased the BXT SL-115 and received it recently. The part shown in the attached image was not included — is that normal? Also, I’m not sure where the part in the second image should go between the front fork and the frame. Please help me. Thank you very much.
1st picture is the compression C-ring, or BXT calls it a "Fixing Ring" in the picture I attached. Yes, you need it. Just make sure it's not stuck in the "115 Cover" above it.
The 2nd picture is the crown race, or BXT calls it the "Base" and you put it on the fork under the bottom headset bearing.
-
1st picture is the compression C-ring, or BXT calls it a "Fixing Ring" in the picture I attached. Yes, you need it. Just make sure it's not stuck in the "115 Cover" above it.
The 2nd picture is the crown race, or BXT calls it the "Base" and you put it on the fork under the bottom headset bearing.
Thanks for the info! I’ll assemble it according to that photo. Really appreciate it!
-
First picture is the Cring, you need it
Second picture is the race crown, goes between your fork and the lower headset bearing.
So that part is actually necessary. I’ll reach out to the seller and ask about it.
-
I didn’t realize it at first because the color was different from the seller’s picture, but it looks like this is the C-ring. It was included after all.
Thank you both!
-
yep, that's the one, you're good to go!
-
I’ve finished building my SL-115! I reused the main drivetrain from my previous rim-brake road bike, and it turned out great!
-
I converted this bike to an e-bike with a TruckRun RN04 250W thru-axle hub motor. It can get up to 28 mph on the highest level 5 assist (there is no throttle). On level 3 it can comfortably cruise at 22 mph with 160W of pedaling power. I haven't run through a full charge yet so I don't know the range but I'm guessing ~30 miles with the 36V 10.5Ah battery.
-
Went for a ride along A1A in South Florida. Did 32 miles at avg 23 mph and had 25% left on the battery so range should be about 40 miles. The motor has a torque sensor so it boosts your pedaling force and you feel like you've instantly become a pro cyclist. Actually I converted another bike with a ToSeven DM02 500W mid-drive motor and I took it on a fast group ride in Miami:
https://youtu.be/0sSBWYPd2tM
-
How are you liking the truckrun motor compared to the toseven middrive? I have a hardtail with a 52v BSHD system on it but I am tired of switching cassettes and chains. I also want a bike that feels better to pedal. I have considered buying a gravel bike and mounting a truckrun RN04, but it is really hard to find information/reviews of it.
Does the torque sensing feel natural?
How does it feel to ride without a battery?
-
How are you liking the truckrun motor compared to the toseven middrive? I have a hardtail with a 52v BSHD system on it but I am tired of switching cassettes and chains. I also want a bike that feels better to pedal. I have considered buying a gravel bike and mounting a truckrun RN04, but it is really hard to find information/reviews of it.
Does the torque sensing feel natural?
How does it feel to ride without a battery?
TruckRun RN04 hub motor
Pros:
- Fits most thru-axle bikes.
- Can keep front derailleur and crankset, Q-factor.
- Torque sensor works okay. No 'ghost pedaling'. But I think the assist levels are based on speed limits where the motor cuts out, e.g. Lvl 1=25km/h, 2=30km/h, 3=35km/h, 4=40km/h, 5=45km/h, so they don't actually change the ratio of assist to your pedaling force.
Cons:
- Only 250W. Can only reach around 28 mph with a fair amount of pedaling power.
- A lot of drag without motor assist.
- I put on a 36V 10.5Ah battery so range is only 30-40 miles.
- You need to build the hub into a wheel rim.
- Has a Shimano HG 11/12 speed road freehub, so no SRAM XD/XDR or Micro Spline.
ToSeven DM02 500W mid-drive motor
Pros:
- Fairly powerful, and utilizes rear gearing. Can reach 28+ mph.
- I put on a 48V 20Ah battery so range is 70+ miles.
- The torque sensing works a bit better. You can change the ratio of assist.
Cons:
- Can only install on aluminum or steel bikes with a 'full tube' BSA bottom bracket shell and narrow chainstays for clearance from the motor gear.
- Q factor very wide at ~200mm plus I had to use a 16mm pedal extender on the left to even them out.
- Need to use special 1x chainrings made for the motor.
Overall I like the TruckRun RN04 better. You can put it on nicer bikes like a carbon road bike, and can keep your drivetrain and crankset with the same Q-factor. It also looks a bit more discrete than the ToSeven DM02 mid-drive. Actually I upgraded this bike with a carbon crankset and wheels to bring the weight down to 12.6 kg/27.8 lb with battery & motor.
-
TruckRun RN04 hub motor
Pros:
- Fits most thru-axle bikes.
- Can keep front derailleur and crankset, Q-factor.
- Torque sensor works okay. No 'ghost pedaling'. But I think the assist levels are based on speed limits where the motor cuts out, e.g. Lvl 1=25km/h, 2=30km/h, 3=35km/h, 4=40km/h, 5=45km/h, so they don't actually change the ratio of assist to your pedaling force.
Cons:
- Only 250W. Can only reach around 28 mph with a fair amount of pedaling power.
- A lot of drag without motor assist.
- I put on a 36V 10.5Ah battery so range is only 30-40 miles.
- You need to build the hub into a wheel rim.
- Has a Shimano HG 11/12 speed road freehub, so no SRAM XD/XDR or Micro Spline.
ToSeven DM02 500W mid-drive motor
Pros:
- Fairly powerful, and utilizes rear gearing. Can reach 28+ mph.
- I put on a 48V 20Ah battery so range is 70+ miles.
- The torque sensing works a bit better. You can change the ratio of assist.
Cons:
- Can only install on aluminum or steel bikes with a 'full tube' BSA bottom bracket shell and narrow chainstays for clearance from the motor gear.
- Q factor very wide at ~200mm plus I had to use a 16mm pedal extender on the left to even them out.
- Need to use special 1x chainrings made for the motor.
Overall I like the TruckRun RN04 better. You can put it on nicer bikes like a carbon road bike, and can keep your drivetrain and crankset with the same Q-factor. It also looks a bit more discrete than the ToSeven DM02 mid-drive. Actually I upgraded this bike with a carbon crankset and wheels to bring the weight down to 12.6 kg/27.8 lb with battery & motor.
Hi
You said that the motor drag is high. Is this true?
Thanks