Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: Cape_Kirk on May 13, 2025, 01:59:39 AM
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Hey folks,
Since the threat about this frame is imho in the wrong subforum:
https://www.velobuild.com/products/2025-velobuild-carbon-fiber-racing-gravel-bike-frame
I want to pull the trigger on the velobuild aero grav frame, but I'm not sure about the size. I've got a Scott rc foil (2024) in size 54 with a 100mm stem and no spacers. It fits very good. I'm 1,79m with 87cm inseam.
The aero grav in S/52 has a similar stack and reach. In size M/54 stack (+23mm) and reach (+17mm) are longer/higher. So I would run the size M with a 80 or 70mm stem and would have a higher stack - therefore more control? What are your thoughts?
Thanks for your input
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The features of the bike looks great.
Concerning the geometry, I'm not a big fan of the longer reach on gravel bikes, making it less twitchy in the corners. Anyway, best is to compare your current position with the new one. In general you sit a bit higher (1cm) on a gravel bike.
you can use a stem length comparison tool like this one. http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php (http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php)
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I have similar measurements and ordered a size S frame, based on a recommendation from Chris at Velobuild. My current road bike, a 2018 Stevens Aspin Disc in size 54, is also closer in geometry to a size S than to an M. I intend to use the new frame as an all-road bike rather than a trail-oriented bikepacking setup. I would also advise you to contact chris.
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Thanks for your input. What do you think about a 70/80mm stem. to twitchy?
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Yeah this bike checks a lot of boxes for a race bike. Aero frame with T47, UDH, 50mm clearance, 46T chainring clearance (53T in 2x), long and low geo.
I can't recall any other frame on here that checks all of those. The zero-setback seatpost option is also a nice feature.
Personally, I would pick a size where I could run it without too many spacers, and just run a shorter stem. But I don't really care too much about handling.
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The frame seems to be inspired by the Ridley ASTR RS. The geometry is nearly identical
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The frame seems to be inspired by the Ridley ASTR RS. The geometry is nearly identical
Good spot, 100% identical (if you match tire sizes between them): https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=66fdf03829b6f6001af781d6,67d47baf9020ab001b69d32c,
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so you think 70-80mm stem length would be ok for handling?
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I pulled the trigger. The waiting begins :)
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Both seatpost and steerer tube sizes are proprietary, right?
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My only gripe is the proprietary seat post with one bolt seat clamp. Just did a gravel race on the Velobuild 268 which also have a one bolt seat clamp and despite the use of fiber grip and very very high torque it still slipped.
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the 0mm offset seat post has a one bolt clamp, the 20mm offset seat post has a regular clamp design. I ordered both.
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the 0mm offset seat post has a one bolt clamp, the 20mm offset seat post has a regular clamp design. I ordered both.
How much more did you spend for the second seatpost?
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35 USD
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the 0mm offset seat post has a one bolt clamp, the 20mm offset seat post has a regular clamp design. I ordered both.
OK, that's great! Wasn't an option when I bought the 268
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If only they'd brought it out to enable 2.2 RK's to fit (so 54mmish clearance).
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Finalized my build and going to pull the trigger on the frame soon. 7.3 Kg, less than 2k EU for the road build.
I wanted an lightweight "aero" race gravel frame that could double as a road bike, all with super limited budget. The choice of this frame was easy also due to the fact that in my size it has exactly the same geos as the Supersix Evo4 road bike so it should be good with a proper set of road wheels. For gearing I went 1x12 with 48 front and 10-44 on the back. I've been using recently my cx bike on the road and I've figured out that I want 1x my next road bike, might go for a smaller chainring for steeper gravel stuff, but for now the build is more road focused.
The groupset is a bit of a hack since I'm using Campagnolo Super Record EPS disc 12s levers with the electronic internals replaced by a 3D printed case for Sram AXS wireless blips, so that the lever paddle operates the blip in the lever. The levers are paired with ZRACE XG calipers so in the end they're lighter than the new Red E1 levers.
On the rear I'm going with the Rival XPLR derailleur to keep costs down, I really wanted to go 13 speed but the cost of the Red derailleur and cassette is bonkers, so I'll definitely wait for Rival or Force 13s to upgrade and to benefit of the UDH frame. There was also the option to go Wheeltop Gex with Ekar cassette, but it's also quite expensive and much heavier and I still don't trust Wheeltop. For the cassette I went Goldix as apparently shifts as well as Sram but it's 85g less than Rival.
Crankset is Magene PES because it just works and is very cheap, to save weight you need to spend a lot more if you need a powermeter.
I opted for a semi-integrated setup because I wanted to use the 34cm Balugoe handlebar I already have and I might change the postiton to fit better the situation.
The wheels are my favourite part as I can build myself so I went full custom with XMCS rims paired with Goldix hubs, went 21 spokes in the front to reduce drag and weight. Don't know yet whether I'm going tubeless or clincher GP5k since the rolling resistance is very close but the clincher is substantially lighter and cheaper.
Here is the Excel for the build, feel free to suggest some different parts. The main focuses are cheap and somewhat reliable. I'll post more once I start building the bike.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1zjmkX3m1XanHHXKSxnJgUpVns5WN1Pmhy9ge7KzAg5U/edit?usp=sharing
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Would you be willing to provide some photos of the build? Maybe even photos of the clearance in the back and in the front, seeing if its maybe possible to squeeze 2.2 tyres in there?
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Will take a lot of pictures of the whole build once I'll start around July. I don't know yet which tires to choose for the gravel side since I'm not sure yet of the clearance. I've tried asking Velobuild if 53mm tires would fit but they told me you can try and see...
I'm looking as well to see the maximum clearance.
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Finalized my build and going to pull the trigger on the frame soon. 7.3 Kg, less than 2k EU for the road build.
I wanted an lightweight "aero" race gravel frame that could double as a road bike, all with super limited budget. The choice of this frame was easy also due to the fact that in my size it has exactly the same geos as the Supersix Evo4 road bike so it should be good with a proper set of road wheels. For gearing I went 1x12 with 48 front and 10-44 on the back. I've been using recently my cx bike on the road and I've figured out that I want 1x my next road bike, might go for a smaller chainring for steeper gravel stuff, but for now the build is more road focused.
The groupset is a bit of a hack since I'm using Campagnolo Super Record EPS disc 12s levers with the electronic internals replaced by a 3D printed case for Sram AXS wireless blips, so that the lever paddle operates the blip in the lever. The levers are paired with ZRACE XG calipers so in the end they're lighter than the new Red E1 levers.
On the rear I'm going with the Rival XPLR derailleur to keep costs down, I really wanted to go 13 speed but the cost of the Red derailleur and cassette is bonkers, so I'll definitely wait for Rival or Force 13s to upgrade and to benefit of the UDH frame. There was also the option to go Wheeltop Gex with Ekar cassette, but it's also quite expensive and much heavier and I still don't trust Wheeltop. For the cassette I went Goldix as apparently shifts as well as Sram but it's 85g less than Rival.
Crankset is Magene PES because it just works and is very cheap, to save weight you need to spend a lot more if you need a powermeter.
I opted for a semi-integrated setup because I wanted to use the 34cm Balugoe handlebar I already have and I might change the postiton to fit better the situation.
The wheels are my favourite part as I can build myself so I went full custom with XMCS rims paired with Goldix hubs, went 21 spokes in the front to reduce drag and weight. Don't know yet whether I'm going tubeless or clincher GP5k since the rolling resistance is very close but the clincher is substantially lighter and cheaper.
Here is the Excel for the build, feel free to suggest some different parts. The main focuses are cheap and somewhat reliable. I'll post more once I start building the bike.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1zjmkX3m1XanHHXKSxnJgUpVns5WN1Pmhy9ge7KzAg5U/edit?usp=sharing
I saw your sheet and have to ask:
Is the Magene Powermeter Crankset compatible with the sram axs xplr rear derailleur?
I am waitinh for this frame right now and i thought that youll need a wider crankset… i have already a rival xplr axs rear derailleur here and also a Rival crankset (wide) but maybe would sell it if there is the option to use a magene
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You don't need a "wide" crankset for xplr. It was done to have more frame clearance for the chainring, especially with 2X. The only concerns mounting the Magene on this frame are the fact that Magene says it's not compatible with T47 and the maximum 1x chainring of 46T. However, if the frame protrudes enough on the drive side as I've seen in the pictures, there should be no interference with the powermeter and, since I'm using a 0mm offset chainring mounted on the outside, the clearance is the same as 2x so 53T
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my Build (when all parts are there):
Velobuild AERO GRAV frame size M in black glossy
integrated handlebar in 380 width, length not sure
sram force d2 brakelevers/shifters/brakes
ali t47 bb
sram rival pm crank (will see if the non wide crank set fits, which is on the old bike)
chainring: old garbaruk aero
gx transmission cassette
gx transmission rear deralieur
wheelset (at first old novatec wheel set, but plan to order easedon 36/45)
tires: conti terra hardpack 50mm (cause of 50% discount on the tires) - tubeless
saddle: specialized power
bar tape: ali
bottle cages: Ali
pedals: Shimano xt from the old bike
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my Build (when all parts are there):
Velobuild AERO GRAV frame size M in black glossy
integrated handlebar in 380 width, length not sure
sram force d2 brakelevers/shifters/brakes
ali t47 bb
sram rival pm crank (will see if the non wide crank set fits, which is on the old bike)
chainring: old garbaruk aero
gx transmission cassette
gx transmission rear deralieur
wheelset (at first old novatec wheel set, but plan to order easedon 36/45)
tires: conti terra hardpack 50mm (cause of 50% discount on the tires) - tubeless
saddle: specialized power
bar tape: ali
bottle cages: Ali
pedals: Shimano xt from the old bike
Have you already got the frame and can upload a picture?
I ordered last week but havent got any tracking info yet… i am waiting for the black glossy one as well
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This will be my first gravel frameset, and I’m still figuring out the right size - especially the stem length.
On my road bike, I usually run a 120–130mm stem. I know shorter stems are common for gravel, but I’m unsure, since I also want to use this as a winter all-road bike.
The geometry is fairly aggressive, so to match my road bike reach, I’d need either a size L with a 90mm stem or a size M with a 100–110mm stem.
Ridley’s configurator recommends size L (185cm, 88cm inseam), but I’m worried I won’t like the handling of a 90mm stem for road use. What are your thoughts regarding transferring road fit to gravel?
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Anyone know what the right whatsapp number is for VeloBuild? The button on the site doesn't work for me, says 'invalid'. Thanks!
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This will be my first gravel frameset, and I’m still figuring out the right size - especially the stem length.
On my road bike, I usually run a 120–130mm stem. I know shorter stems are common for gravel, but I’m unsure, since I also want to use this as a winter all-road bike.
The geometry is fairly aggressive, so to match my road bike reach, I’d need either a size L with a 90mm stem or a size M with a 100–110mm stem.
Ridley’s configurator recommends size L (185cm, 88cm inseam), but I’m worried I won’t like the handling of a 90mm stem for road use. What are your thoughts regarding transferring road fit to gravel?
It really depends of what you will do with your gravel, if you ride technical terrains you will be better with higher and wider bar and shorter overall reach, if you ride less technical gravel roads where speed is key you will want to mimic the aero road position, long low narrow :)
By the way on pure road us you'll probably find the slack head angle of gravel a bit lazy.
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Have you already got the frame and can upload a picture?
I ordered last week but havent got any tracking info yet… i am waiting for the black glossy one as well
Velobuild told me, that the first frames will be ready for delivery end of may. Patience ;)
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I'm also eyeing this frame...curious what my other USA based compatriots are doing. I want to order this but am I going to get hit with whatever current tariff rate is in place (as of today I think it's 50%?). Still might be worth pulling the trigger...
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This will be my first gravel frameset, and I’m still figuring out the right size - especially the stem length.
On my road bike, I usually run a 120–130mm stem. I know shorter stems are common for gravel, but I’m unsure, since I also want to use this as a winter all-road bike.
The geometry is fairly aggressive, so to match my road bike reach, I’d need either a size L with a 90mm stem or a size M with a 100–110mm stem.
Ridley’s configurator recommends size L (185cm, 88cm inseam), but I’m worried I won’t like the handling of a 90mm stem for road use. What are your thoughts regarding transferring road fit to gravel?
Take into consideration HTA. With 71.5 steering with long stems is slow with longer stems. 90 are perfect for this angle. I have a gravel bike with 71.5 HTA and steering is noticeably slower then my gravel bike with 110 stem.
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stupid question regarding chainline:
rival dub cl: 45mm
rival dub wide cl: 47,5mm
I use a rival dub crankset with a alugear chainring at the moment. I think it has an offset off 3mm (or maybe 6mm?).
If I use a non-wide crankset with a 0mm offset chainring, does it have more or less the same chainline as a dub wide crankset with an offset chainring? ???
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It should, since the dub wide is 2.5mm wider per side
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Can you fit 28.6mm stems/cockpits or only 31.8mm?
And any other infos about their cockpit? Reach, Flare, etc.
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velobuild homepage says, that they sell only one integrated handlebar:
I think it should be this one
https://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing
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Can you fit 28.6mm stems/cockpits or only 31.8mm?
And any other infos about their cockpit? Reach, Flare, etc.
Why 31.8? I'm quite sure the steerer is standard 28.6
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Europe buyers: did you have to pay import duties? Or do they ship via dpd/tax free?
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VB told me import duties for EU are included if I choose the XDB shipping.
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Hey folks,
disappointing news: Velobuild just postponed the shipment to end of June >:(
Not happy about it, cause the timeline they told me was one of the reasons for ordering the frame set.
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They gave me a couple of weeks ago the 20th of june for when they were shipping the frames. Is that what they told you?
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They told me that the frame is ready in the range of end of may/ beginning of june.
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If they would have made it 20-25mm higher stack, size small would have been perfect for me. Well i would rather have small with also 71.5deg HTA instead of 71 - like the larger sizes, but that is a small thing :-)
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Update:
sequence of events:
I ordered the frame in size M (glossy), cause VB told me that this particular combination is ready for shipping at the end of may. Other sizes and colors would have take at least one week (or even month) longer.
End of may: I asked VB if the frame is ready for shipping and got no answer for three days.
VB responded, that the first frames are ready for shipping end of June.
I told them, that one reason for the order was the communicated timeline, cause I need the frame for an upcoming race at the beginning of July.
Their answer was, that they can refund the frame. No sign of admission of the false timeline and lack of communication.
Funny thing: I ordered another frame from VB at the and of 2024 and all went well - the reason I chose VB over other companies.
Sum up: nothing to worry about, but definitely bad costumer relations from VB
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Hi, first time poster on the forum here. I have been reading here for a while and got tempted to make a gravel bike. Parts and frame are ordered, so a good day to sign up here and get involved. I’m a 193cm tall and around 100 kilo, I have been riding mountain bikes for a few years but need something a bit more speedy. This build will be used for commutes on tarmac and gravel.
This is my first build, so I might have done some dumb choices or forgotten something important, but hopefully my
Aero Grav XL, +2 cm setback, 12cm stem (none integrated), 440mm bar.
Senicx PR3 Gravel Bike Crankset 40T chainring 175mm Crank 10/11S Speed 24MM
Senicx T47-85.5-24R-Ceramic botom bracket
Wheeltop EDS GEX groupset
YBN 12 speed chain
Elitewheels Gravel wheels
Shimano RT86 160mm am 180mm rotors
ZTTO HG 12s 11-50 ULT SR cassette
Maxis Rambler 45C tires
Internal frame housing damper
Bartape
Carbon paste
Extra spacers for stem.
Cables and cable hosing
Grease
Tubeless valves and sealant
Pedals
Saddle
I would like to have mudguards but unsure what to get. If anyone have a advice or se anything wrong missing in the build, then please let me know
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Hi, first time poster on the forum here. I have been reading here for a while and got tempted to make a gravel bike. Parts and frame are ordered, so a good day to sign up here and get involved. I’m a 193cm tall and around 100 kilo, I have been riding mountain bikes for a few years but need something a bit more speedy. This build will be used for commutes on tarmac and gravel.
This is my first build, so I might have done some dumb choices or forgotten something important, but hopefully my
Aero Grav XL, +2 cm setback, 12cm stem (none integrated), 440mm bar.
Senicx PR3 Gravel Bike Crankset 40T chainring 175mm Crank 10/11S Speed 24MM
Senicx T47-85.5-24R-Ceramic botom bracket
Wheeltop EDS GEX groupset
YBN 12 speed chain
Elitewheels Gravel wheels
Shimano RT86 160mm am 180mm rotors
ZTTO HG 12s 11-50 ULT SR cassette
Maxis Rambler 45C tires
Internal frame housing damper
Bartape
Carbon paste
Extra spacers for stem.
Cables and cable hosing
Grease
Tubeless valves and sealant
Pedals
Saddle
I would like to have mudguards but unsure what to get. If anyone have a advice or se anything wrong missing in the build, then please let me know
I'm same height as you are and I've recently ordered an XL as well. It looks like you are going to end up with a pretty long position. For a reference, I'm currently riding a lightcarbon gravel frame that is 2cm shorter than this one and I'm running 110mm cockpit and 15mm offset seatpost. For this build i've opted for a 100x420 cockpit and i've ordered both 0 and a 20mm offset seatposts just in case.
I'm not giving you a fit advice of course, just be sure to double check the geo since the frame is really long.
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I'm same height as you are and I've recently ordered an XL as well. It looks like you are going to end up with a pretty long position. For a reference, I'm currently riding a lightcarbon gravel frame that is 2cm shorter than this one and I'm running 110mm cockpit and 15mm offset seatpost. For this build i've opted for a 100x420 cockpit and i've ordered both 0 and a 20mm offset seatposts just in case.
I'm not giving you a fit advice of course, just be sure to double check the geo since the frame is really long.
Thanks, this is good input! Im totally clueless when it come to road/gravle bikes, so I maximized size thinking i could always replace the stem etc later on. Since I have to learn this new type of bike i guess that making too eratic changes in start wont make huge impact (except avoiding soar hands and back for too long reach). I will follow your example here :)
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Thanks, this is good input! Im totally clueless when it come to road/gravle bikes, so I maximized size thinking i could always replace the stem etc later on. Since I have to learn this new type of bike i guess that making too eratic changes in start wont make huge impact (except avoiding soar hands and back for too long reach). I will follow your example here :)
I would definitely get an additional 0mm offset seatpost if I were you, it's only 35$. Even with separate bar and stem you still route the brake hoses through the stem internally so swapping up the stem is a pain in the butt. You will have to detach the brakes, remove handlebar tape, then reconnect everything and hope you don't have to bleed the system again. Also those spacers might not work with a regular aftermarket stem so you might have to source another stem from VB if necessary. Swapping the seatpost on the other hand takes 5 minutes if you need to shorten your position
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I would definitely get an additional 0mm offset seatpost if I were you, it's only 35$. Even with separate bar and stem you still route the brake hoses through the stem internally so swapping up the stem is a pain in the butt. You will have to detach the brakes, remove handlebar tape, then reconnect everything and hope you don't have to bleed the system again. Also those spacers might not work with a regular aftermarket stem so you might have to source another stem from VB if necessary. Swapping the seatpost on the other hand takes 5 minutes if you need to shorten your position
Ah, I wasnt aware that you route trough he stem on these bikes. Sent them a mail and asked for the adjustments :)
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Hi everyone, I’m new here.
I ordered my XS frame three weeks ago and am now gathering parts for my build.
I’m considering using the WheelTop EDS GeX 1×12 drivetrain, but have a significant question about the crankset.
Anders posted this setup:
Senicx PR3 Gravel Bike Crankset, 40T chainring, 175 mm arms, 10–11-speed, 24 mm spindle
Senicx T47-85.5-24R Ceramic bottom bracket
WheelTop EDS GeX groupset
Frame’s T47 bottom-bracket shell measures 46 × 86.5 mm. Will this exact setup (85.5) be compatible with it?
Thanks in advance for any insights!
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Hi,
from what I understand…and cycling industry loves to just throw in new standards…
T47 inboard measures 86,5…now, surprise, if you ever had to install a t47 86,5…you might have scratched either your
head or your frame, because the flange where you engage your tool is very thin.
So…they came up with a bb-shell width of 85,5mm…so a dedicated bottom bracket t47 85,5 has a wider flange for tool engagement!
That means you end up finally at the same total width.
Now…of course you can thread in a 85,5mm bb into your 86,5mm frame….but…you will end up 1mm wider!
So…whatever crank you are going to install….it could work…but you should consider it.
I hope I am right and it makes sense…
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Hi everyone, I’m new here.
I ordered my XS frame three weeks ago and am now gathering parts for my build.
I’m considering using the WheelTop EDS GeX 1×12 drivetrain, but have a significant question about the crankset.
Anders posted this setup:
Frame’s T47 bottom-bracket shell measures 46 × 86.5 mm. Will this exact setup (85.5) be compatible with it?
Thanks in advance for any insights!
Thanks for the heads up on this! I will look for another and have a spare 85.5 as a reminder to do my due diligence before ordering. ;D
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Hey Anders, could you let me know which components you ended up switching to?
I’m curious what crankset and bottom-bracket solution you chose in the end :)
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Hey Anders, could you let me know which components you ended up switching to?
I’m curious what crankset and bottom-bracket solution you chose in the end :)
I will for sure do more research this time, i se that i might have to my box of shame as well... I will let you know what i end up with, hopefully there is someone more skilled than me that can help us out :)
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Hi everyone, I’m new here.
I ordered my XS frame three weeks ago and am now gathering parts for my build.
I’m considering using the WheelTop EDS GeX 1×12 drivetrain, but have a significant question about the crankset.
Anders posted this setup:
Frame’s T47 bottom-bracket shell measures 46 × 86.5 mm. Will this exact setup (85.5) be compatible with it?
Thanks in advance for any insights!
I would assume this setup would give you no issue. The 1mm difference likely won't cause incompatibility. Id probably order some 24mm shims to have on hand incase I get any rub and loctite the crank bolt.
I would question why a 175mm cranks on a XS frame? 165 or even 160 seem more appropriate for that size. I use 170s on a XL
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Thanks Nkearb.
I would question why a 175mm cranks on a XS frame? 165 or even 160 seem more appropriate for that size. I use 170s on a XL
I'm going to use 165mm :)
I was confused by the "weird" 86.5mm size, so I thought it would be better to ask before ordering anything.
I have already found a Kactus BB T47-DUB (86.5mm).
If I decide to go for Wheeltop GeX, does it matter if I order a Shimano or XDR wheelset?
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i will hopefully receiver the parts i have ordered in a couple days, will have a look and se if a 1 spacer is worth using. This 86.5
Thanks Nkearb.
I'm going to use 165mm :)
I was confused by the "weird" 86.5mm size, so I thought it would be better to ask before ordering anything.
I have already found a Kactus BB T47-DUB (86.5mm).
If I decide to go for Wheeltop GeX, does it matter if I order a Shimano or XDR wheelset?
I will recive the 85.5 BB and crank in a few days and will try to figure out if a 1mm spacer may do the trick for the scenicx BB. The Kactus seems like a better option though.
I use both shimano and sram wheels on my MTB using the Wheeltop OX 2.0 and it works fine. I checked with wheeltop regarding the rotor size compability of the break calipers and they said that they only support 140/160mm rotors (even though some sources claimed that 180 is good). I changed my setup to 160 front and rear.
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The reach seems really long? I think I would get something more relaxed if this was going to be my first or only gravel bike, especially with the long race lengths.
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Hi, I didn’t some research into my crank and bb purchases. I got verified from velobuild that 86.5 is the outer measure of the threads on the frame.
The BB I bought was Senicx T47-85.5-24R-Ceramic Bearing, that I measured to 85.5 maximum compressed. The middle "pipe" on the BB is there to keep dirt away from the bearings and avoid that the crank rubs against the inner cables, and I’m fairly sure it will keep tight. It would be better with a wider BB.
The crank I bought was SENICX PR3 Gravel Bike Crankset 40T chainring 175mm Crank 10/11S Speed 24MM and this seems to be my main issue. It has an optimal inner distance of 89mm without spacers, so I will have about around 3mm of the splines not connected to the crank arm. The total length of the splines is 20mm. If need for spacers I think i will have a big problem.
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Hi, I didn’t some research into my crank and bb purchases. I got verified from velobuild that 86.5 is the outer measure of the threads on the frame.
The BB I bought was Senicx T47-85.5-24R-Ceramic Bearing, that I measured to 85.5 maximum compressed. The middle "pipe" on the BB is there to keep dirt away from the bearings and avoid that the crank rubs against the inner cables, and I’m fairly sure it will keep tight. It would be better with a wider BB.
The crank I bought was SENICX PR3 Gravel Bike Crankset 40T chainring 175mm Crank 10/11S Speed 24MM and this seems to be my main issue. It has an optimal inner distance of 89mm without spacers, so I will have about around 3mm of the splines not connected to the crank arm. The total length of the splines is 20mm. If need for spacers I think i will have a big problem.
When I said 24mm shims I was talking about the .1mm shims, I've bought some from aliexpress. You would need somewhere between 0 to .5mm of shims to prevent rub on the driveside. Id have no concerns about spline engagement at that point. I would use loctite on these cranksets in any case for the preload bolt
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When I said 24mm shims I was talking about the .1mm shims, I've bought some from aliexpress. You would need somewhere between 0 to .5mm of shims to prevent rub on the driveside. Id have no concerns about spline engagement at that point. I would use loctite on these cranksets in any case for the preload bolt
Cool, thank you. The shims i ordered was 1mm, i will get some thinner ones as well :)
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Hey everyone,
I just got an update from Velobuild saying they “hope to ship the frame in mid-July,” and it’s starting to get a bit frustrating >:(
Does anyone know of any other gravel frames with a similar geometry I could look at in the meantime?
I'm looking for an XS frame, preferably with the following specifications: Reach 370-380 mm, Stack 530-550 mm, TTE 515-525 mm, and Standover 740 mm.
If not...I'm seriously considering pulling the trigger on a new Rose Backroad FF with the latest SRAM Rival 1x13 ::)
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Got to say I'm more than frustrated with this situation.
There's no good and precise information from them, just a sequence of delays. First frames would be finished by end of may, then end june, now mid july. What next?
A very poor comunicating channel (I asked them last week when they would ship the frame and no answer so far). I'm relying on other people comments here right now.
The product page keep stacking the number of sold frames, and no frame actually exists that we know of.
I know what I choose, I know chinese sellers are difficult in certain aspects, but come on guys, this is getting ridiculous now.
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Doesn’t give much confidence unfortunately… I was/am considering this frame for my gf, but maybe I should start looking at alternatives now.
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also still waiting :/ ordered mid may
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Availability depends on your size. Afaik only size 'M' is currently in production and 'L' will be next.
The only real alternative is TideAce Noah / GR201.
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I also found https://www.yoeleobike.com/collections/gravel-frame/products/altera-g21-gravel-frameset
It seems to be an alternative....but that price is crazy ;)
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Ordered size XL with a planned shipping date at the end of June but now it was pushed to "maybe end of july" so I would peobably be lucky to get it by the end of summer. Since I've already sold my gravel bike to make a room for a new bike it's really annoying so I'm thinking about cancelling and getting an ican graro instead.
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News on my side: They told me my frame would be ready next week.
Let's see.......
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Same thing here kirk, guessing your size medium too.
Are you US or other?
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The T47 x 86.5 standard used on this frame is for an inbound BB, is that right? Like this: https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/t47/t47-inboard-abec-3-bb-for-29mm-sram-dub-cranks.html
Hoping to use this with the EVOSID MTB https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007160396920.html cranks here. The cranks do state they'll work with MTB or road widths (68 or 73), but I guess I'll need 5mm of spacers?
Thanks!
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VB is known to over promise on timelines. They are a broker, not a factory, and they sell a lot of frames at the cheaper end of the spectrum, which means it's in their interest to book sales and worry about things later. When they give you fake deadlines, they probably aren't outright lying, they can always say that the factory had unforeseen delays. You dont buy a VB for the white glove service, let's say.
I ve bought 4 frames from them.
My advice: just like you shouldnt buy a phone because it promises you features down the road that currently dont exist (i'm looking at you apple), you shouldn't buy a VB that's not in stock.
Also, it's inherently riskier to order the 1st frames coming out of the mould vs a model that's been in production for 6+ months.
And VB has a history of modifying things on the fly, such as the C ring that needed changing to get rid of headset play.
Also, btw: it's a 500$ frame, via a broker. Which means you have 2 mouths to feed, not one (if going straight to the factory / OEM). So, while they have volume discounts, it's still a layer that can be avoided.
Do you know who makes the frames for VB?
I have a VB roadbike and pretty happy with it :)
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VB has been selling open moulds designs, but also models i havent seen anywhere else, so they might own some moulds.
Never found their TT frame elsewhere. Guess it's one of these owned moulds..
Btw, thanks for sharing your experience with them!
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Same thing here kirk, guessing your size medium too.
Are you US or other?
Yep, size medium for me. I'm from germany.
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what would be the best way to cancel the order?
just contact via the website and ask for a cancel? Has anyone made the experience if they do it without any problems?
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Just contact them via support@velobuild.com
No problem with the refund...But I still haven't decided yet ;)
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Just contact them via support@velobuild.com
No problem with the refund...But I still haven't decided yet ;)
Me neither as i dont know a better alternative yet.
Seomething that comes quicker and has similar specs and geo…
The Tideace/Tantan/Longteng GV202 came to my eye but i read so many comments about the poor geometry of this that i cant decide on it.
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What of the geometry of the GR/GV201 are you disliking that you prefer in the VB Aero Grav?
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Yep, size medium for me. I'm from germany.
Hey if you go to euro bike. Looks like they have one for test ride you could snag at the end maybe lol
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It has fork mounts. Hopefully they didn’t mess anything up, since the product pictures never showed them.
I've also received confirmation that my order is ready to ship within the next days.
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Hey if you go to euro bike. Looks like they have one for test ride you could snag at the end maybe lol
I don't know if it's an ugly paint job or a bad angle of the picture but it looks way less cool than I expected. Especially the area where the seatstays connect to the seatpost does not look great
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It has fork mounts. Hopefully they didn’t mess anything up, since the product pictures never showed them.
I've also received confirmation that my order is ready to ship within the next days.
I asked VB about the fork mounts and they told me that the Eurobike test bike has a fork from a different frameset and the production framesets won't have the mounts
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What of the geometry of the GR/GV201 are you disliking that you prefer in the VB Aero Grav?
I am by far no expert in this topic but from what i see it has a stack to reach of 1.37 which is more agressive than my Canyon Ultimate, it is also longer in reach than the ultimate and the Velobuild but has a larger wheelbase and very long chainstays, which i read feels less twitchy / racey as you would expext from such a frame…
I do like the look and the storage option though
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I don't know if it's an ugly paint job or a bad angle of the picture but it looks way less cool than I expected. Especially the area where the seatstays connect to the seatpost does not look great
Same feeling here... I saw it on Instagram earlier, did not recognize the frame...
I asked VB about the fork mounts and they told me that the Eurobike test bike has a fork from a different frameset and the production framesets won't have the mounts
I was going to comment here that the fork was different, too skinny...
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Apparently the tires that are in the photos are 40's so tire clearance at least in the fork looks like it could clear 2.2's maybe. at least 2.0 in the rear.
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Anyone know what the right whatsapp number is for VeloBuild? The button on the site doesn't work for me, says 'invalid'. Thanks!
Apologies we're getting that fixed! you can reach us on WhatsApp at +86 135 1026 2471
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I dont. VB is a broker so they are sourcing from whoever they want. Given they sell quite a few models, you can be sure they source from different factories. They may even source a given frame from different factories. Given the price point i also doubt the highest care goes into making the frames, so i dont expect factories to advertise they have VB as a client.
VB has been selling open moulds designs, but also models i havent seen anywhere else, so they might own some moulds.
Slight correction, we're a manufacturer and have our own factory. We also OEM for others brands as well and are focusing these days on unique moulds we own ourselves ;)
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Slight correction, we're a manufacturer and have our own factory. We also OEM for others brands as well and are focusing these days on unique moulds we own ourselves ;)
...and now get your things together and use realistic delivery dates on your frames. I'm still waiting for the shipment of my frame.
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...and now get your things together and use realistic delivery dates on your frames. I'm still waiting for the shipment of my frame.
We completely hear you and you're right, delivery timelines need to be realistic. Sorry you're still waiting on your frame, that’s not the experience we want anyone to have.
Can you shoot us a DM at the WhatsApp number below with your order number? We’ll check on it right away and make sure you’re in the loop. Thanks for your patience and for keeping us accountable.
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Thanks for your patience and for keeping us accountable.
Hey VeloBuild.Bikes.
Would it be possible to post some high-quality, real-world pictures of the finished frame here for us? To check how it looks, details, and what the quality of the painting is?
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...and now get your things together and use realistic delivery dates on your frames. I'm still waiting for the shipment of my frame.
...and postponed again to next monday - allegedly a problem with the anti slip paint on the seat post..
will keep updating
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Hey VeloBuild.Bikes.
Would it be possible to post some high-quality, real-world pictures of the finished frame here for us? To check how it looks, details, and what the quality of the painting is?
+1 on this.
The frame on the Eurobike booth does not look like the frame on the website listing. A part from the fork that someone already said is from a different frame, there are several other nuances and details, specially on the front of the bike that don't add up... Would be nice to see a high detail picture
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[quote]
+1 on this.
The frame on the Eurobike booth does not look like the frame on the website listing. A part from the fork that someone already said is from a different frame, there are several other nuances and details, specially on the front of the bike that don't add up... Would be nice to see a high detail picture
[/quote]
Why could they not bring the final ones to the Eurobike since they are going to ship the first batch in the next few days?
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I dont see any differences to the one at the website expect for the fork
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Apparently the tires that are in the photos are 40's so tire clearance at least in the fork looks like it could clear 2.2's maybe. at least 2.0 in the rear.
i dont think there are any Schwalbe X-One in 40mm. Its a Cyclocross tire and afaik theres max. 35mm version of this tire.
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I dont see any differences to the one at the website expect for the fork
From the angle of your picture it does look the same, the other pictures gave me a wrong impression on the shape of the the head tube and the seat clamp. Hence the need for a better picture ;)
The creases (not sure is the right word for this) are definetely smoother on the finished bike compared to the website listing.
Well let's wait for the frames... Hope they sort out the delays.
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...and postponed again to next monday - allegedly a problem with the anti slip paint on the seat post..
will keep updating
correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't it the same seat post from the 268, which should have all the seat post issues sorted by this point. Thankfully I have other bikes I can commute on but would be nice to have the new one :'(
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Some close up photos of the AERO GRAV build we had at Euro Bike. We can confirm that the fork on this build is not the production fork for this frame and it will indeed be the one on our website without eyelets.
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Thanks for the pics @VeloBuild.Bikes
Now let's ship those bad boys so we can build our bikes and share it with the community here...
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Some close up photos of the AERO GRAV build we had at Euro Bike. We can confirm that the fork on this build is not the production fork for this frame and it will indeed be the one on our website without eyelets.
What size is that ?
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Going to have a look at it at EuroBike today. I'll try to measure the actual tire clearance.
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Going to have a look at it at EuroBike today. I'll try to measure the actual tire clearance.
Bring a scale too lol. Jk but doing the Lord's work for the forum
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News from my site: vb shipped the frame.
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Does anyone have the whatsapp number of Velobuild?
Want to order one, but what to discuss colors.
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News from my site: vb shipped the frame.
whats your shipping time looking like?
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Apologies we're getting that fixed! you can reach us on WhatsApp at +86 135 1026 2471
here it is
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whats your shipping time looking like?
10-14 days
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Here are some random pics I made: https://imgur.com/a/fLUfCTs
I had a hard time measuring the rear tire clearance because my caliper was acting up.
I got a reading of 57mm at the rear, but I wouldn't take that number as definitive.
It wasn't easy to tell which part would be most likely to make contact first since the tires mounted were tiny and only 32mm wide.
They told me it might fit a 2.1" tire.
The front fork has an inner width of 70mm.
The guy at the outdoor booth was very nice and I had a great time chatting with him. Thanks for the beer!
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Rear clearance looks quite tight. 2.1 may be at the edge. Front looks a bit wider.
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I ordered a size S frame back in mid-May. Was hoping to receive it by mid/late July but I'm wondering if it'll be longer. When I reached out to VB a couple weeks ago asking for an update all they told me was that the small frame was undergoing ISO testing and would start mass production once that was complete. No date or timeline was given but they did say they would send photos of the frame before they ship it out so I'll share those when I receive them.
I did notice the sizing runs large. After mapping up my planned build on bikegeocalc.com I saw the stand-over of the size small was going to be about 775mm, definitely high for someone with an 800mm inseam but I liked the geo of the small frame a lot better than the XS.
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I ordered a size S, custom painting this week.
No rush for me (as it’s for my gf). Would still be nice to have it end of August / Sept…
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I ordered a size S frame back in mid-May. Was hoping to receive it by mid/late July but I'm wondering if it'll be longer. When I reached out to VB a couple weeks ago asking for an update all they told me was that the small frame was undergoing ISO testing and would start mass production once that was complete. No date or timeline was given but they did say they would send photos of the frame before they ship it out so I'll share those when I receive them.
I did notice the sizing runs large. After mapping up my planned build on bikegeocalc.com I saw the stand-over of the size small was going to be about 775mm, definitely high for someone with an 800mm inseam but I liked the geo of the small frame a lot better than the XS.
They shipped my medium July 1st. About a month after they first estimated. It's supposed to get here the 7th and is already at my local UPS office from Hong Kong. So shipping time wasn't bad at all, just the delays in shipping.
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Here are some random pics I made: https://imgur.com/a/fLUfCTs
Thanks for these photos. I'm really disappointed :'( I would like to have aero frame that looks more like Rose Backroad FF or Ridley ASTR with clean look in front and rear, but these installation points with visible bolts on fork's crown and seat stay look extremely unaesthetic.
As this gravel purchase will be my first one from OEM, does anyone knows if the manufacturer could remove these bolts for special request?
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On the pics, the frame looks very "cheap"
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Thanks for these photos. I'm really disappointed :'( I would like to have aero frame that looks more like Rose Backroad FF or Ridley ASTR with clean look in front and rear, but these installation points with visible bolts on fork's crown and seat stay look extremely unaesthetic.
As this gravel purchase will be my first one from OEM, does anyone knows if the manufacturer could remove these bolts for special request?
That is not the production fork. Please read the hole threat.
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Hey Velobuild,
Since you've reportedly started shipping the first frames, can we expect some high-quality photos of the FINAL product, including the actual fork?
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Hey Velobuild,
Since you've reportedly started shipping the first frames, can we expect some high-quality photos of the FINAL product, including the actual fork?
I should get mine tomorrow. If I do get it I'll post for the forum. I got the zero offset seatpost, gloss black, I opted for no handlebars but never got confirmation that they didn't or did take them out so...
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I should get mine tomorrow. If I do get it I'll post for the forum. I got the zero offset seatpost, gloss black, I opted for no handlebars but never got confirmation that they didn't or did take them out so...
If you don't mind, any of the following would be very nice to know:
Fork, chainstay and seatstay width (for tire clearance)
1x chainring clearance.
Looking forward to seeing the pics!
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If you don't mind, any of the following would be very nice to know:
Fork, chainstay and seatstay width (for tire clearance)
1x chainring clearance.
Looking forward to seeing the pics!
I need to get some calipers still but I have a 2.2 that im guessing is really blowing out to be a 2.1 on my hardtail. I'll try that sometime but I drove to work today instead so no tires with me at the moment.
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Any chance for 1x chainring around 50? Or the 46 is all what will fit there?
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So I had a chance to put some tires into the frame and see whatll fit. Sadly to say, my 2.2s cleared the chain stays and sesttube just fine, but it rubbed on both chain stays. That may be from the fact the rim isn't fully true but even without the minor variation in it, I wouldn't recommend to anyone. The 50 cleared the front with around 6mm on either side so 2.2 would be fine up front.
I will say that 2.2 race King looked damn good in the frame, if you shave the side knobs off it may work but kinda seems like a waste when you could get a proper 2.1, just watch the side knob height.
Here's an album of photos I've taken so far. No calipers still so no solid numbers but the Allen key in the photos are all 6mm wide. Rear tire is a 45 terra trail and a 50mm
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mfz5rBSy52Wv4Z337
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Looks great! May I ask where you from?
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Did you order black glossy or raw glossy?
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Here's an album of photos I've taken so far. No calipers still so no solid numbers but the Allen key in the photos are all 6mm wide. Rear tire is a 45 terra trail and a 50mm
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mfz5rBSy52Wv4Z337
Looks promising :) I just received an update on my order - my frame will be sent to a painting shop this weekend...
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Did you order black glossy or raw glossy?
I'm in the US. I had to ship mine with UPS with all the tariff stuff so it got here faster than their option. For color, I just clicked glossy but it does look glossy black. Looks promising :) I just received an update on my order - my frame will be sent to a painting shop this weekend...
Hopefully helped to relieve some people's opinion that it looks cheap. I thought from the photos but I think the build velobuild did made it look bad
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Darn. I was actually really hoping it would fit my 2.2 race kings :/ They fit on my Salsa Journeyer until I moved them onto hookless rims with 25mm internal. They sort of fit at first but over a month or so the tires seemed to expanded slightly and started rubbing on the fork.
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I'm in the US. I had to ship mine with UPS with all the tariff stuff so it got here faster than their option.
How much did you have to pay, tariff-wise?
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How much did you have to pay, tariff-wise?
52 total, I think it was like 38 to tariff and rest was shipper dues. I ordered it pretty much when they first announced, think I was at least in the first 13 or so.
Darn. I was actually really hoping it would fit my 2.2 race kings :/ They fit on my Salsa Journeyer until I moved them onto hookless rims with 25mm internal. They sort of fit at first but over a month or so the tires seemed to expanded slightly and started rubbing on the fork.
I was hoping the same but im willing to bet 50-52 is prob the max you will get in there. Just the chainstays are going to be your limiting factor.
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This is quite disappointing honestly. Claimed 50mm clearance is supposed to mean 50+6 each side, so 62mm between the chainstays - which should be plenty enough clearance for a Race King. This looks like it barely has more clearance than my Graro (45mm officially).
1) Is that rim really wide?
2) Is the tire pumped up to max pressure or something?
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So I had a chance to put some tires into the frame and see whatll fit. Sadly to say, my 2.2s cleared the chain stays and sesttube just fine, but it rubbed on both chain stays. That may be from the fact the rim isn't fully true but even without the minor variation in it, I wouldn't recommend to anyone. The 50 cleared the front with around 6mm on either side so 2.2 would be fine up front.
I will say that 2.2 race King looked damn good in the frame, if you shave the side knobs off it may work but kinda seems like a waste when you could get a proper 2.1, just watch the side knob height.
Here's an album of photos I've taken so far. No calipers still so no solid numbers but the Allen key in the photos are all 6mm wide. Rear tire is a 45 terra trail and a 50mm
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mfz5rBSy52Wv4Z337
thanks for sharing. The frame looks so much better than that abomination from Eurobike so I'm excited again to receive mine hopefully in a couple of weeks. Tire clearance is much tighter than I was hoping for to be hones but if it will accommodate 50mm in the rear with some mud clearance I'll be happy with that.
Is that an overspray in the bb threads or just some dirt?
Also is it worth facing the bottom bracket shell since it is painted of the sides?
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This is quite disappointing honestly. Claimed 50mm clearance is supposed to mean 50+6 each side, so 62mm between the chainstays - which should be plenty enough clearance for a Race King. This looks like it barely has more clearance than my Graro (45mm officially).
yeah, I'm honestly pretty disappointed too and am considering seeing if they'll let me cancel my order. Claiming 50c tires clearance when there's only ~3mm wiggle room is misleading. I chose this frame because of the claimed tire clearance. If it's not bigger than frames claiming 45c, it loses most of it's appeal to me. All it has left is a price point that I like.
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This is quite disappointing honestly. Claimed 50mm clearance is supposed to mean 50+6 each side, so 62mm between the chainstays - which should be plenty enough clearance for a Race King. This looks like it barely has more clearance than my Graro (45mm officially).
1) Is that rim really wide?
2) Is the tire pumped up to max pressure or something?
Rim isnt wide at all, 19 mm internal lol. It's not super pumped up but maybe a bit more than typical.
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Wait a minute, the face of bb shell be painted, same goes for brake caliper mounts on the frame. Is this paintjob done incorrectly from what i can see on the pictures?
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Looking at the real life pictures of the frame, I wonder what makes this frame "Aero". Apart from the seatpost, all the tubes and especially the fork/headtube look bulky. ???
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Looking at the real life pictures of the frame, I wonder what makes this frame "Aero". Apart from the seatpost, all the tubes and especially the fork/headtube look bulky. ???
How do you find Ridley Noah Fast's 3.0 ForkTube design, then? ;)
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My frame arrived yesterday and I'm pretty happy with it so far. It looks almost like a Ridley ASTR.
Two Things to keep in mind:
1. The frame has a lot of bolts (bottle cages, mud guards etc.) Those bolts look cheap on a black frame. So I ordered black bolts for the hole frame from Amazon.
2. (and that is my fault - but VB takes here a dumb route): the rear axle has a 1.5 thread and is not compatible with a sram axs transmission. A transmission RD needs an axle with 1.0 thread. So I had to order that as well...
Looking forward to finish the build and post some pictures. (FYI: 50mm Conti Terra Hardpack on 30mm inner width rim has enough clearance).
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2. (and that is my fault - but VB takes here a dumb route): the rear axle has a 1.5 threat and is not compatible with a sram axs transmission. A transmission RD needs an axle with 1.0 threat. So I had to order that as well…
Thats new… Reading it again, I get that the problem is with the wheel axle provided with the frame, which comes with a 1.5 thread.
Just reached Velobuild regarding this, I'm planning to use a Transmission derailleur.
They must provide that info right away within the page for people to know that.
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My frame arrived yesterday and I'm pretty happy with it so far. It looks almost like a Ridley ASTR.
Two Things to keep in mind:
1. The frame has a lot of bolts (bottle cages, mud guards etc.) Those bolts look cheap on a black frame. So I ordered black bolts for the hole frame from Amazon.
2. (and that is my fault - but VB takes here a dumb route): the rear axle has a 1.5 threat and is not compatible with a sram axs transmission. A transmission RD needs an axle with 1.0 threat. So I had to order that as well...
Looking forward to finish the build and post some pictures. (FYI: 50mm Conti Terra Hardpack on 30mm inner width rim has enough clearance).
The 50 terra for the rear has plenty or in the front. I tried my 2.2 in the front fork and I had about 4.5mm all around. Idk what is going on in the rear, my racekings aren't super old but im sure they have stretched some.
Also, the brake hose on the fork is routed, so no fishing for the hose, amen amen.
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Looking at the real life pictures of the frame, I wonder what makes this frame "Aero". Apart from the seatpost, all the tubes and especially the fork/headtube look bulky. ???
I mean, to be fair, its a under 500 dollar frame, I don't expect windtunnel testing, like Kirk said, they likely based the the aero claims off of what the Ridley ASTR probably claims.
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Thats new… Reading it again, I get that the problem is with the wheel axle provided with the frame, which comes with a 1.5 thread.
Just reached Velobuild regarding this, I'm planning to use a Transmission derailleur.
They must provide that info right away within the page for people to know that.
They do! It is on VB website. I made the same mistake.
https://www.velobuild.com/products/2025-velobuild-carbon-fiber-racing-gravel-bike-frame
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Looking at the real life pictures of the frame, I wonder what makes this frame "Aero". Apart from the seatpost, all the tubes and especially the fork/headtube look bulky. ???
It looks as aero as orca terra race or a backroad ff. It looks faster than most of the other frames imo.
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They do! It is on VB website. I made the same mistake.
https://www.velobuild.com/products/2025-velobuild-carbon-fiber-racing-gravel-bike-frame
Well you're right, it is indeed... What to say after all this? Now comes the multiple emails and messages, reaching out and trying to get the right part, confirming wether your frame is shipped already...
It's my first build, and I never imagined the amount of details and little things you'd have to know to build a whole bike without a hiccup... Pretty disappointed with everything so far, on top of all the delays and the frame looking meh (regularish), and now the axles are wrong... Definitely missing riding a bike....
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Well you're right, it is indeed... What to say after all this? Now comes the multiple emails and messages, reaching out and trying to get the right part, confirming wether your frame is shipped already...
It's my first build, and I never imagined the amount of details and little things you'd have to know to build a whole bike without a hiccup... Pretty disappointed with everything so far, on top of all the delays and the frame looking meh (regularish), and now the axles are wrong... Definitely missing riding a bike....
At this price point there do tend to be weird quirks that you have to work around and you won't get much support from the sellers. The build process can be really annoying, it's not uncommon to have to buy some small parts or tools to get it buildable, but it's usually a lot of fun once it's built and you can just enjoy the ride.
I ended up canceling my order once it became clear it did not have the tire clearance I wanted :/
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I’m in the middle of the build, and so far I haven’t run into any problems.
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Has anybody weighed the frame?
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How are the builds progressing?
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How are the builds progressing?
Waiting for a new rear axle to build it with sram transmission. Otherwise no problems with the build. Changed all the silverish bolts to black ones.
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Waiting for a new rear axle to build it with sram transmission. Otherwise no problems with the build. Changed all the silverish bolts to black ones.
Could you share a link to those black bolts?
If I plan to use the latest SRAM Rival 1x13 groupset, will I also need to change the axle? If so, which axle should I use?
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Could you share a link to those black bolts?
If I plan to use the latest SRAM Rival 1x13 groupset, will I also need to change the axle? If so, which axle should I use?
Ask Velobuild for a rear axle with 1.0 pitch (thread).
If you look on their product page, the axles are threaded with a 1.5 pattern.
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My build is finished. I’m very satisfied with the frame’s quality, even though I had some concerns before it arrived.
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My build is finished. I’m very satisfied with the frame’s quality, even though I had some concerns before it arrived.
Can you comment on tire clearance? I guess those are 45s?
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Waiting for a new rear axle to build it with sram transmission. Otherwise no problems with the build. Changed all the silverish bolts to black ones.
Are you still in time to weigh the bare frame?
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My build is finished. I’m very satisfied with the frame’s quality, even though I had some concerns before it arrived.
Congrats on your finished build – it looks awesome! :)
How does it feel in terms of stiffness and overall handling in real-world riding?
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My build is finished. I’m very satisfied with the frame’s quality, even though I had some concerns before it arrived.
Looks really nice!
1. Can you tell about chainring clearance in a 1x setup? Would 48 or even 50 fit?
2. Would be great if you could tell, if tire clearance is really maxed out at 50 or if even a little bit wider would fit. Plenty of room with 45s?
Thanks
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my build is almost finished, RD will be in the mail today.
- the "silver" bolts everywhere really do not look nice, ordered black ones
- 48 chainring on DUB Wide fits the frame (see picture)
- tire clearance is okay but not super-roomy. I put in a 2.1 Thunder Burt and it clears well. Not sure about Conti 2.2 Dubnitals. Shown in the picture are 45mm GK X1.
Will provide additional photos when the build is finished if you guys are interested.
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/img_9818-jpeg.1646251/)
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The 2.1 mountain bike tyre is on a 700c wheel, or 650?
700c
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Could you share a link to those black bolts?
If I plan to use the latest SRAM Rival 1x13 groupset, will I also need to change the axle? If so, which axle should I use?
Axle: "The Robert Axle Project", Part Number LIG603 (Axle length 162 or 167mm) Thread Pitch M12x1,0 (other axle manufacturers will fit as well)
Bolts: M5x14mm (German amazon link: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CTKCNPCW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)
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nearly finished (brakes, bar tape) - decals with "TRACTOR" (like Factor decals) are incoming
(don't really know how to attach pictures)
VB Aero Grav Size M
VB 0mm offset seat post
Integrated handlebar Balogue Gravel (380x80)
Easedon Gravel wheels (30mm inner width)
Continental Terra Hardpack 50mm (tubeless)
Shimano brake rotors 160mm
SRAM GX transmission cassette 10-52
SRAM GX transmission RD
SRAM Rival powermeter crankset with SRAM Red/Force 46T chainring
SRAM Force D1 STI
Shimano XT Pedals
Spezialized Power Saddle
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nearly finished (brakes, bar tape) - decals with "TRACTOR" (like Factor decals) are incoming
(don't really know how to attach pictures)
VB Aero Grav Size M
VB 0mm offset seat post
Integrated handlebar Balogue Gravel (380x80)
Easedon Gravel wheels (30mm inner width)
Continental Terra Hardpack 50mm (tubeless)
Shimano brake rotors 160mm
SRAM GX transmission cassette 10-52
SRAM GX transmission RD
SRAM Rival powermeter crankset with SRAM Red/Force 46T chainring
SRAM Force D1 STI
Shimano XT Pedals
Spezialized Power Saddle
Very nice! Are those 50s mounted on a wide rim? Or do you know how wide the measurd width is? Planning to run 50s on 32mm internal rims, so I guess those will measure ~52mm.... Do you think that fits?
Do you have a pictur of the space for the 46 Chainring? That would be nice, if you have time to take a picture.
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nearly finished (brakes, bar tape) - decals with "TRACTOR" (like Factor decals) are incoming
(don't really know how to attach pictures)
VB Aero Grav Size M
VB 0mm offset seat post
Integrated handlebar Balogue Gravel (380x80)
Easedon Gravel wheels (30mm inner width)
Continental Terra Hardpack 50mm (tubeless)
Shimano brake rotors 160mm
SRAM GX transmission cassette 10-52
SRAM GX transmission RD
SRAM Rival powermeter crankset with SRAM Red/Force 46T chainring
SRAM Force D1 STI
Shimano XT Pedals
Spezialized Power Saddle
Looks sick already! Now i cant wait to receive my glossy black frame... But i arranged with velobuild to deliver it after my holidays.
Did you design the decals yourself or can you share a link to them? Like the idea
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Looks sick already! Now i cant wait to receive my glossy black frame... But i arranged with velobuild to deliver it after my holidays.
Did you design the decals yourself or can you share a link to them? Like the idea
You can order custom decals from speedy decals (Italy). This guy does everything thing when it comes to decals! Just pick any decal and send him an email with your ideas.
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build almost done:
(https://i.ibb.co/Ld5xcm9d/Image-2025-07-21-T142120-443.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xqH1BWzq)
(https://i.ibb.co/xKDw2KKf/Image-2025-07-21-T142116-456.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ymXKNmmY)
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Cool to see that RaceKings fit! Is it tight?
Chainring size is 46/48?
Looks really good!
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Cool to see that RaceKings fit! Is it tight?
Chainring size is 46/48?
Looks really good!
Those are the "bad" 2.0 Race Kings. A 2.2 definitely won’t fit in the rear.
I was hoping for more clearance so I could run 2.2 Dubnitals — but that’s just not happening.
That said, the bike rides really well.
I’ll keep my eyes open for a frame with more tire clearance in the future.
The chainring is a 48T.
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Looks badass!
How much room to spare in the front?
Fwiw, on my GR201 a 2.2 fits - barely - if you cut the hairs on the knobs and only if it’s absolutely dry. I’ve got about 2-3mm clearance.
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Looks badass!
How much room to spare in the front?
Fwiw, on my GR201 a 2.2 fits - barely - if you cut the hairs on the knobs and only if it’s absolutely dry. I’ve got about 2-3mm clearance.
In the front a 2.2 should fit easly.
I also had a look at the GR201 and while I generally like the frame, I am waiting for one to truly fit 2.2s - I am in no rush anyway.
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will there be other colors available at some point?
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In the front a 2.2 should fit easly.
I also had a look at the GR201 and while I generally like the frame, I am waiting for one to truly fit 2.2s - I am in no rush anyway.
Can you share your height and what is the frame size and stem length? Thanks.
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will there be other colors available at some point?
You can place an order for a custom painting.
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How are you guys enjoying the frame? How does it ride?
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This build looks so good - hope you're enjoying riding it as much as you must be looking at it!
build almost done:
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Nice build! If this frame had internal storage, it would’ve been perfect. I think it looks way better than the GR201.
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I think it looks way better than the GR201.
I second this perfectly subjective opinion, this frame looks great, and those builds are stunning !
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Very interested by this frame kit for mount an all-road bike with 2 different wheels set ( Road and Gravel ) with new sram xplr 1x13
Do you have pictures of seat post clamp and velobuild gravel integrated handlebar ?
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Thoughts on the ability to use this bike as a cyclocross bike? I am looking for a decent all rounder frame that can have multiple wheelsets (gravel (45mm)/road(32mm)/CX(38mm).
Doesn't need to be great at all of those but trying to pair down the stable a bit.
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Very interested by this frame kit for mount an all-road bike with 2 different wheels set ( Road and Gravel ) with new sram xplr 1x13
Do you have pictures of seat post clamp and velobuild gravel integrated handlebar ?
I can take a photo of the seatpost clamp but it's a pretty standard design. The integrated gravel bar is the same at the 268 but with like 10 degree of flair
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Order completed
- M Size
- RAW with glossy varnish
- Integrated handlebar 420/100
Next:
Search BB T47 86.5 ceramic if you have a good brand with reasonable price
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Order completed
- M Size
- RAW with glossy varnish
- Integrated handlebar 420/100
Next:
Search BB T47 86.5 ceramic if you have a good brand with reasonable price
I bought this one (I think someone else mentioned it in this thread): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005447989967.html?spm=a2g0n.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.e0a3f19cIjXOS8&_gl=1*80fnru*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE3NTI0MzY4NjIuQ2owS0NRandzczNEQmhDM0FSSXNBTGRnWXhQZFNIN2dwZWlMWDdjeVhKUW1rNmtmTVBZakRLM3NvU1N6UXd6Y1dRZzFsNEZxZXFkQmcyNGFBcGV1RUFMd193Y0I.*_gcl_au*MTAyMTQ0MTkxNi4xNzUyNDM1MzIw*_ga*MTU1NTI0MzczNS4xNzUyNDM1MzIw*_ga_VED1YSGNC7*czE3NTM3NzA5MTAkbzEwJGcwJHQxNzUzNzcwOTEwJGo2MCRsMCRoMA..
Also just got the shipping notification yesterday. Pearl white frame in size M for me. I plan to do some decals in the style as the Scott Addict Gravel RC. I also purchased the new Elitewheels Aero+ Gravel wheels - excited to test these coming from the 303 XPLR S.
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I bought this one (I think someone else mentioned it in this thread): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005447989967.html?spm=a2g0n.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.e0a3f19cIjXOS8&_gl=1*80fnru*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE3NTI0MzY4NjIuQ2owS0NRandzczNEQmhDM0FSSXNBTGRnWXhQZFNIN2dwZWlMWDdjeVhKUW1rNmtmTVBZakRLM3NvU1N6UXd6Y1dRZzFsNEZxZXFkQmcyNGFBcGV1RUFMd193Y0I.*_gcl_au*MTAyMTQ0MTkxNi4xNzUyNDM1MzIw*_ga*MTU1NTI0MzczNS4xNzUyNDM1MzIw*_ga_VED1YSGNC7*czE3NTM3NzA5MTAkbzEwJGcwJHQxNzUzNzcwOTEwJGo2MCRsMCRoMA..
Also just got the shipping notification yesterday. Pearl white frame in size M for me. I plan to do some decals in the style as the Scott Addict Gravel RC. I also purchased the new Elitewheels Aero+ Gravel wheels - excited to test these coming from the 303 XPLR S.
May I ask when did you place your order? Interesting to see what will be delivery time for me. Placed an order 8th july also pearl white but size s. Was told that delivery of size m would be faster. I bought the cheaper Elitewheels SLR Gravel -wheelset.
I have to admit that I am little bit of anxious as this will be my first built with chinese frame and wheelset.
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May I ask when did you place your order? Interesting to see what will be delivery time for me. Placed an order 8th july also pearl white but size s. Was told that delivery of size m would be faster. I bought the cheaper Elitewheels SLR Gravel -wheelset.
I have to admit that I am little bit of anxious as this will be my first built with chinese frame and wheelset.
I made my order on July 4th and was also told M would be faster (I was also considering size L, but M was closest to my previous Grizl size M).
This is also my first full build so I anticipate lots of setbacks and frustration :)
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I made my order on July 4th
That was quick. I ordered XL at the end of May and still nothing
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I ordered mine in XS size on May 26th…it was supposed to be shipped today, but still no confirmation..
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I can take a photo of the seatpost clamp but it's a pretty standard design. The integrated gravel bar is the same at the 268 but with like 10 degree of flair
Sorry for the delay. Finally getting around the building in it. The semi wireless will make the build much easier but I anticipate frustrations with the ltwoo cables not fitting right the first time size they're bigger than di2
Here's the seatpost clamp
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So can anyone actually confirm with photos that a 2.1 thunder burt fits in this frame?
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So can anyone actually confirm with photos that a 2.1 thunder burt fits in this frame?
In the front I would feel safe to confirm, the rear idk
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In the front I would feel safe to confirm, the rear idk
Photo makes the clearance look a bit tighter than it really is.
It is a close call, though:
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/img_9888-jpeg.1648253/)
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/img_9889-jpeg.1648254/)
Front no problem:
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/img_9886-jpeg.1648252/)
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Im thinking to order this frame and Im looking around about components for the build.
A sram DUB wide crankset with 13 speed cassette would work with it? Or I need the non wide DUB?
Otherwise Im thinking about a Senicx Gr2 crankset, but Im not sure it would work with sram flattop chain
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Im thinking to order this frame and Im looking around about components for the build.
A sram DUB wide crankset with 13 speed cassette would work with it? Or I need the non wide DUB?
Otherwise Im thinking about a Senicx Gr2 crankset, but Im not sure it would work with sram flattop chain
I had senixc cransket and it was crap.had to push it really hard to make it fit the bb. I think the shaft wasn't 100% straight, fucked up my bearings a little. Changed to force cransket and all good.
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Is anyone able to post some photos of the clearance for a front derailleur with 45-50mm tires? Hoping to run 2in mtb tires on this frame but not sure I will need to go to 1x to do so.
Thanks!!
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build almost done:
(https://i.ibb.co/Ld5xcm9d/Image-2025-07-21-T142120-443.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xqH1BWzq)
(https://i.ibb.co/xKDw2KKf/Image-2025-07-21-T142116-456.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ymXKNmmY)
It's a wide or non wide crankset? which bb did you use? thanks!
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I had senixc cransket and it was crap.had to push it really hard to make it fit the bb. I think the shaft wasn't 100% straight, fucked up my bearings a little. Changed to force cransket and all good.
I have two senicx steel version, no issues.
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Anyone have any reviews on how it rides? Unsure to keep my order or try to grab a new Dark Matter frameset.
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I put 400km on it and I'm pretty happy! Would buy it again.
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Hi!
I'm thinking of building my first gravel bike on this frame, I'm 180cm tall, 85cm inseam, should I go for size M? And has anyone used a mechanical derailleur? Thanks a lot for your answers!
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Just bit the bullet and ordered one. Raw carbon glossy. They reckon it will be shipped in 7 days.
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build almost done:
(https://i.ibb.co/Ld5xcm9d/Image-2025-07-21-T142120-443.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xqH1BWzq)
(https://i.ibb.co/xKDw2KKf/Image-2025-07-21-T142116-456.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ymXKNmmY)
Hi, what stem is this - did you get it with the frame? I am thinking of building up this frame, possibly very similar to your build, but unsure of what aftermarket stem options exists?
FYI I was quoted a price reduction of $60 if I forego the bar/stem.
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What is aero about this frame?
It's "vibes" lol
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What is aero about this frame?
The seatpost ;D
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What is aero about this frame?
- Tapered head tube
- Almost horizontal top tube
- Aero seat post
- Aero seat tube with wheel cutout
- Dropped seatstays
It's not necessarily an aero bike, but it is a gravel bike with aero features.
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- Tapered head tube
- Almost horizontal top tube
- Aero seat post
- Aero seat tube with wheel cutout
- Dropped seatstays
It's not necessarily an aero bike, but it is a gravel bike with aero features.
this.
on flat roads and downhills it feels (and is, according to Strava-segements) quite a bit faster than a non-aero-gravel-bike.
Hi, what stem is this - did you get it with the frame? I am thinking of building up this frame, possibly very similar to your build, but unsure of what aftermarket stem options exists?
FYI I was quoted a price reduction of $60 if I forego the bar/stem.
it's the carbon stem that comes with the frame when you order the seperate bar/stem.
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Can you run 140mm Brake Rotors Front and Rear on this bike? The Website says only 160 or 180
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Can you run 140mm Brake Rotors Front and Rear on this bike? The Website says only 160 or 180
Rear yeah but the front I believe you're stuck to 160
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Those are the "bad" 2.0 Race Kings. A 2.2 definitely won’t fit in the rear.
I was hoping for more clearance so I could run 2.2 Dubnitals — but that’s just not happening.
That said, the bike rides really well.
I’ll keep my eyes open for a frame with more tire clearance in the future.
The chainring is a 48T.
Did you need a wide?
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Received my frame and quickly installed the BB to check what chainring fits.
I run a 50t passquest narrow-wide chainring on a shimano road crank (Ultegra/105 R8000/R7000). It barely fits! Nothing I encourage anyone to do as it is without any safety margin, but it works. So any other crank/chainring combination up to 50t should be fine. 48t for sure.
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Received my frame and quickly installed the BB to check what chainring fits.
I run a 50t passquest narrow-wide chainring on a shimano road crank (Ultegra/105 R8000/R7000). It barely fits! Nothing I encourage anyone to do as it is without any safety margin, but it works. So any other crank/chainring combination up to 50t should be fine. 48t for sure.
Nice! Is that the 0 offset or the 3mm offset?
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Did not measure, but bought the version that does not say "3mm offset". So, should be the standard version.
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Did not measure, but bought the version that does not say "3mm offset". So, should be the standard version.
Yep, that's a 0-offset, so mounts in the big ring position (I wrote to them and asked specifically about this a while ago). Considering you're using an 11 sp road crank, that should put your chainline somewhere around 47.5 which is still very good for a 50T on a gravel bike. That's exactly SRAM wide chainline, for reference GRX 1x is actually wider at around 49.
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EU owners - How long did you wait for your shipment from the moment it was sent until it was delivered?
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Any feedback on the general quality of Velobuild's paint jobs? If I'm pulling the trigger on this frame I'm not getting another black frame, so I will get it painted no matter what :D Only curious if it's better to just go for a standard one color paint than to try to be adventurous (I realize this probably have been answered over time in many other topics, but bear with me, I'm a new user that have lurked for some time).
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My feedback on the paint jobs after having had a number of painted VB frames is that for the cost, you can't beat it and for a relatively small price you get a custom paint job that can really set your bike apart.
On the design front just be very clear on what you want, include links, photos, colour numbers, ask for mock ups and give feedback. Don't make any assumptions.
On the quality, they can scratch fairly easy, which hasn't been a deal breaker for me but spraying on a clear coat after getting the frame could be a quick solution I may try next.
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Slowly and surely the build is coming along, not the tires I will likely end on and I am going to try to see if the p505 will fit but overall very happy with the ease of build and comfort.
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Slowly and surely the build is coming along, not the tires I will likely end on and I am going to try to see if the p505 will fit but overall very happy with the ease of build and comfort.
Did you go DI2?
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Did you go DI2?
Ltwoo erx 1st gen, but since it has the same setup as di2, it would work just fine. Battery fits in the seatpost fine. The front cable guide hole seems like it would be way to small for any cables to go through so I have some electrical tape covering the hole.
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Slowly and surely the build is coming along, not the tires I will likely end on and I am going to try to see if the p505 will fit but overall very happy with the ease of build and comfort.
Absolute banger! Very nice 8)
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Any perspective on the strength of the layup of this frame? I'm a heavier rider that likes to get on a bit of singletrack, does the tubing feel thin? Do they offer a stronger layup option? Thanks!
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Any perspective on the strength of the layup of this frame? I'm a heavier rider that likes to get on a bit of singletrack, does the tubing feel thin? Do they offer a stronger layup option? Thanks!
I have not built up my frame yet, but have it sitting next to a canyon endurace CF SLX, and the tubing feels much thicker than that frame. Noticeably less flex when squeezing the top tube with my hand. The frame seems very durable, likely at the cost of weight, as it is much heavier than the canyon frame.
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Good feedback, I'd be coming off steel so it all feels light to me. I'll take strength over weight on a cheap frame
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Just for info. I ordered this frame on July 27th and it hasn't arrived at home. The status is still in order printed in China. So I think it's going to be quite long.
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Same here, ordered 1 July. No updates yet. Size S with custom painting.
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I received my frame (size M with Pearl White painting) on Thursday (7th). I made the order on July 4th, so a little more than a month from order to delivery. Haven't had the time to look close at it yet, but the paint looks very nice and good quality overall. Hope to get the build finished by next week.
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Any feedback on the general quality of Velobuild's paint jobs? If I'm pulling the trigger on this frame I'm not getting another black frame, so I will get it painted no matter what :D Only curious if it's better to just go for a standard one color paint than to try to be adventurous (I realize this probably have been answered over time in many other topics, but bear with me, I'm a new user that have lurked for some time).
Look at velobuild insta story today. The paintjob reminds me of that horribible paintjob that SPCycle did (user posted it here).
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Just for info. I ordered this frame on July 27th and it hasn't arrived at home. The status is still in order printed in China. So I think it's going to be quite long.
I placed my order July 8th and got an update yesterday that my frame was shipped.
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I have not built up my frame yet, but have it sitting next to a canyon endurace CF SLX, and the tubing feels much thicker than that frame. Noticeably less flex when squeezing the top tube with my hand. The frame seems very durable, likely at the cost of weight, as it is much heavier than the canyon frame.
What does your frame and fork weigh, is it even close to the numbers on velobuilds site?
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Have anybody used ppf on this frame? I guess no pre-cut kits works with the frame and have to use universal/bulk ppf-kit.
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Ridley astr rs ppf kit ?
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Ridley astr rs ppf kit ?
Don’t know how I forgot the obvious ::) at least the tube lengths would match.
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What does your frame and fork weigh, is it even close to the numbers on velobuilds site?
Sorry for the slow response here, the whole system (frame size M, fork, seatpost, handlebars) came in at ~2150g, which is only 100 grams over the quoted weight for the size M. This was also with a 420/110mm handlebar, so maybe that accounts for the increased weight as they might use the weight for the smaller bars.
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Quick update, Magene PES 505 worked with my FSA t47i bb. I did use the wavy washer on the drive side to give some more space around the bb but I would feel safe saying that it would be fine without it. Cranks are 165mm, so I have prob an inch+ of room between my toe and the 2.1 on the front
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I received my frame (size M with Pearl White painting) on Thursday (7th). I made the order on July 4th, so a little more than a month from order to delivery. Haven't had the time to look close at it yet, but the paint looks very nice and good quality overall. Hope to get the build finished by next week.
Can you post a picture of it? I'm thinking going something like Pearl White on it also, but it's almost a more difficult decision than what frame to get!
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Can you post a picture of it? I'm thinking going something like Pearl White on it also, but it's almost a more difficult decision than what frame to get!
This is pearl white
https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/carbon-fiber-racing-gravel-bike-frame-chameleon-white
If you want to get an idea about the colors you can use the Ridley Astr Rs configurator ::)
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This is pearl white
https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/carbon-fiber-racing-gravel-bike-frame-chameleon-white
If you want to get an idea about the colors you can use the Ridley Astr Rs configurator ::)
That states chameleon white? I found a lot of other examples of pearl white on their site, the problem they all look different because of the lighting :D
Thank you. I will try that!
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I have a problem with the one-bolt saddle clamp. My rider weight is 75kg, but the saddle tilt slipped several times. Already torqued it up to 12NM and used carbon paste. I do not see it holding up doing a race situation even at higher torque numbers. As I know my exact saddle tilt, I am honestly thinking of glueing in the inner part of the clamp.
Besides that, no complaints. Frame and build quality seems very good. Brake mounts are faced properly, BB thread was also good.
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More photo’s people!
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Here’s some pictures of my Pearl White frame. It’s hard to capture the pearl effect, but it looks very cool. I’m currently testing some decals to add on permanently later on.
Anyways, my build is slowly progressing. As a noob in bike building, I’ve already had some, I guess anticipated, issues. I thought I was gonna use the Magene P515 power meter with a 48t chainring. When installing, I instantly saw that the spindle was way too short and the chainring collided with the frame. I think I would need 15 mm spacers to clear the frame (and not be able to mount the left hand side arm…). For now, I’ve put on the Rival crankset and the SRAM Dub Wide bb.
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Here’s some pictures of my Pearl White frame. It’s hard to capture the pearl effect, but it looks very cool. I’m currently testing some decals to add on permanently later on.
Anyways, my build is slowly progressing. As a noob in bike building, I’ve already had some, I guess anticipated, issues. I thought I was gonna use the Magene P515 power meter with a 48t chainring. When installing, I instantly saw that the spindle was way too short and the chainring collided with the frame. I think I would need 15 mm spacers to clear the frame (and not be able to mount the left hand side arm…). For now, I’ve put on the Rival crankset and the SRAM Dub Wide bb.
Looks good, I like the decals you got on so far. I wonder if I were to go 1x instead of 2x on my P505 if I would've run into issues not clearing. Right now im using my 52-36 rings and clearing fine surprisingly enough
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I thought I was gonna use the Magene P515 power meter with a 48t chainring. When installing, I instantly saw that the spindle was way too short and the chainring collided with the frame. I think I would need 15 mm spacers to clear the frame (and not be able to mount the left hand side arm…). For now, I’ve put on the Rival crankset and the SRAM Dub Wide bb.
Did you use a 0 offset chainring? Did you put it on the outside of the spider? If so there should be no interference since people here are running 2x with bigger chainrings
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Did you use a 0 offset chainring? Did you put it on the outside of the spider? If so there should be no interference since people here are running 2x with bigger chainrings
Damn. I just checked and I had it on the inside of the spider. Putting it in the outside gives me around 7 mm. The chainring has 3 mm offset, so a non-offset or negative offset chainring and maybe a spacer might give me the clearance I need. Thanks!
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Here’s some pictures of my Pearl White frame. It’s hard to capture the pearl effect, but it looks very cool. I’m currently testing some decals to add on permanently later on.
Anyways, my build is slowly progressing. As a noob in bike building, I’ve already had some, I guess anticipated, issues. I thought I was gonna use the Magene P515 power meter with a 48t chainring. When installing, I instantly saw that the spindle was way too short and the chainring collided with the frame. I think I would need 15 mm spacers to clear the frame (and not be able to mount the left hand side arm…). For now, I’ve put on the Rival crankset and the SRAM Dub Wide bb.
Looks great!
I did not see this post before I placed an order on mine. Went with Pearl White and I do not regret that after seeing this. Cool.
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I tried to see if the Magene power meter crank would fit with the 3 mm offset 48t chainring. If I add a 5.5 mm spacer, I have about 4.5 mm clearance from chainring to chainstay. I’m thinking about adding 6.5 mm spacer instead to get a little more clearance. This setup gives me a chainline of 49.5 mm, any idea how that matches up with the SRAM E1 13-speed? Can’t seem to find any chainline recommendations.
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Pulled the trigger, size XS. 8)
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I tried to see if the Magene power meter crank would fit with the 3 mm offset 48t chainring. If I add a 5.5 mm spacer, I have about 4.5 mm clearance from chainring to chainstay. I’m thinking about adding 6.5 mm spacer instead to get a little more clearance. This setup gives me a chainline of 49.5 mm, any idea how that matches up with the SRAM E1 13-speed? Can’t seem to find any chainline recommendations.
looks like the SRAM website says 47.5mm chainline for their 13 speed XPLR stuff.
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/fc-riv-1w-d1
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I tried to see if the Magene power meter crank would fit with the 3 mm offset 48t chainring. If I add a 5.5 mm spacer, I have about 4.5 mm clearance from chainring to chainstay. I’m thinking about adding 6.5 mm spacer instead to get a little more clearance. This setup gives me a chainline of 49.5 mm, any idea how that matches up with the SRAM E1 13-speed? Can’t seem to find any chainline recommendations.
4.5mm clearance seems plenty, why do you want more? As Blueberry said Sram wide chainline is 47.5 you are already at 48.5. I dont see what you gain by going to 49.5.
Edit: even mountain bikers seem happy with 3mm clearance.
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Ordered my frame on the 6th, just got the shipped email.
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This might be a stupid question, but I'm new to bike builds..
I've ordered this frame (XL, in Pearl White - they say it will be shipped end August, I placed the order 15.08 if that info is important for any).
I was looking at going to 1x12 speed (Sensah SRX). BUT! I'm not sure that I understood bottom brackets and cranks correct.
I want to use this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005817404883.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.7bd51802aAVTKj
And this in 48T:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009609808654.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.7bd51802aAVTKj
1. Is that possible?
2. What bottom bracket do I need?
3. Do I need any spacers?
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This might be a stupid question, but I'm new to bike builds..
I've ordered this frame (XL, in Pearl White - they say it will be shipped end August, I placed the order 15.08 if that info is important for any).
I was looking at going to 1x12 speed (Sensah SRX). BUT! I'm not sure that I understood bottom brackets and cranks correct.
I want to use this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005817404883.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.7bd51802aAVTKj
And this in 48T:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009609808654.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.7bd51802aAVTKj
1. Is that possible?
2. What bottom bracket do I need?
3. Do I need any spacers?
1. According to their website, a 48t 1x chainring in the front is too big. Their stated max is 44t.
2.Those links don't work for me but you need a T47 bottom bracket with inboard bearings and it needs to say that it is for whatever axle size your crank is. The main spindle diameters for a crank are 30mm, 24mm, and "dub" which is Sram's thing. Sometimes instead of saying 24mm, bottom brackets will just say something like "T47 internal bottom bracket for shimano." The "for Shimano" part just means it's for a 24mm spindle.
The crank should say something about being for road or gravel. Don't get anything that says MTB.
3. It depends. If you can cannot tighten the crank down enough to properly preload the bearings of the bottom bracket, you'll need to add spacers until you can.
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1. According to their website, a 48t 1x chainring in the front is too big. Their stated max is 44t.
2.Those links don't work for me but you need a T47 bottom bracket with inboard bearings and it needs to say that it is for whatever axle size your crank is. The main spindle diameters for a crank are 30mm, 24mm, and "dub" which is Sram's thing. Sometimes instead of saying 24mm, bottom brackets will just say something like "T47 internal bottom bracket for shimano." The "for Shimano" part just means it's for a 24mm spindle.
The crank should say something about being for road or gravel. Don't get anything that says MTB.
3. It depends. If you can cannot tighten the crank down enough to properly preload the bearings of the bottom bracket, you'll need to add spacers until you can.
1. Yeah. I could start by learning how to read and look at the website first :-\
But could see someone trying with 48T in this tread. I’m just not clever enough to understand the conclusion.
2. Hm. Okay. Thank you. I will look around and see if this makes sense to me when looking at products.
3. Okay. Thanks.
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1. Yeah. I could start by learning how to read and look at the website first :-\
But could see someone trying with 48T in this tread. I’m just not clever enough to understand the conclusion.
2. Hm. Okay. Thank you. I will look around and see if this makes sense to me when looking at products.
3. Okay. Thanks.
you could add spacers on the drive side to shift the chainring slightly more outboard/away from the bike so it fits, I believe that is what sbixify is doing. but it will change the chainline which could affect shifting a bit. It would probably just shift a little less smoothly in the lower gears you might be using while climbing. I usually avoid adding spacers to the drive side so I'm not messing with the intended chainline. You can often reach out to sellers/manufacturers to ask about chainline if you're not sure.
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you could add spacers on the drive side to shift the chainring slightly more outboard/away from the bike so it fits, I believe that is what sbixify is doing. but it will change the chainline which could affect shifting a bit. It would probably just shift a little less smoothly in the lower gears you might be using while climbing. I usually avoid adding spacers to the drive side so I'm not messing with the intended chainline. You can often reach out to sellers/manufacturers to ask about chainline if you're not sure.
It sounds like it would better for me to go with something two chainrings. I actually have a ultegra 11 speed laying that might be helpful.
Then I just need to figure out what bb that I need for that.
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Assuming you have a Shimano crankset, you'll want a bottom bracket that meets the following specifications:
T47 - because that's what your frame asks for
Inboard/Internal - that's also a frame consideration (your bottom bracket shell is 86.5 mm wide, which in turn means your BB bearings sit inboard/internal to the frame (as opposed to outboard/external))
24 - Shimano cranksets have a 24 mm axle diameter
Some manufacturers use very minimalistic product descriptions for this, e.g. T47-24I.
Here's a randomly-chosen example of what will work: https://www.tokenproducts.com/bottom-brackets/threaded/bb47v24
What you don't want:
Anything that isn't T47 (no BSA, no pressfit, no Italian threading)
Outboard/external cups or asymmetric cups (as a way of telling these apart: inboard cups have a narrow notched flange while outboard cups have a chunkier flange)
30 mm, 29 mm (SRAM DUB), 24/22 mm (SRAM GPX)
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Assuming you have a Shimano crankset, you'll want a bottom bracket that meets the following specifications:
T47 - because that's what your frame asks for
Inboard/Internal - that's also a frame consideration (your bottom bracket shell is 86.5 mm wide, which in turn means your BB bearings sit inboard/internal to the frame (as opposed to outboard/external))
24 - Shimano cranksets have a 24 mm axle diameter
Some manufacturers use very minimalistic product descriptions for this, e.g. T47-24I.
Here's a randomly-chosen example of what will work: https://www.tokenproducts.com/bottom-brackets/threaded/bb47v24
What you don't want:
Anything that isn't T47 (no BSA, no pressfit, no Italian threading)
Outboard/external cups or asymmetric cups (as a way of telling these apart: inboard cups have a narrow notched flange while outboard cups have a chunkier flange)
30 mm, 29 mm (SRAM DUB), 24/22 mm (SRAM GPX)
Thank you very much! This is very helpful!
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Frame arrived today. XS Raw carbon Gloss clear coat. weighs in at 1147g.
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Sweet! What’s your build going to be??
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Finally received mine today. XL ordered on the 30th of May
Pros:
- The quality seems really good overall. No paint overspray, headset cups are almost perfectly smooth and the bearings fit perfectly without rocking.
- handlebar spacers are machined aluminum. Frankly it's heavier than plastic but I've had problems with spacers being too soft causing play and loosening headset in the past so I'll take alu any day.
- you get an option off offset or no offset seatpost and I've got both
- geo seems really good for me at least on the paper
- it was very cheap
Cons:
- I'm a little disappointed by the paintjob: I ordered a transparent green clear coat over the raw carbon but they used a lot of black paint to cover up some of the areas of the frame and the whole rear part of the bike including the bb is just plain black so the paint just looks like a "somewhat" green to black fade at best but In most light conditions it just looks completely black. It was a 60$ paint job so I got what I paid for.
- the frame is very heavy. Without a rear derailleur hanger, with bottle cage bold and the front derailleur hanger it's 1247g
- cockpit does not come with a computer mount
- no di2 plugs or battery holder included
weights:
Frame size XL 1247g
Fork uncut 472g
Cockpit 100x420 397g
Seatpost 0mm offset 215g
Seatpost 20mm offset 237g
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And here we go with another (XS size) frame that arrived today. Same feelings about the paint job - it was supposed to look like a satin/semi-matte finish, but it feels like it’s not finished ;) I also ordered bottle cages and a computer mount, but I haven't found them in my box. Maybe I will repaint it over the wintertime. We will see. Now it is time to finish that build first.
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My painted frame also looks awful. Rather have an unpainted frame than a poorly painted frame
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I ordered it in matte black to be safe. From what I can see, the paint job isn't the best. Tons of orange peel.
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My painted frame also looks awful. Rather have an unpainted frame than a poorly painted frame
I would not call this awful ;) It is a 60 $ paint job, so it is fine for this price. I just have a feeling that the last layer of satin/semi-matte varnish is missing. But maybe I am wrong. Overall, I'm happy that it is finally here ;D
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how do you install a derailleur hanger? It's supposed to rest on the stop on the frame when tightening but when installed like this it seems rotated too far forward and you can't actually get the wheel in
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finishing building up my frame, did a custom paint job which came out pretty good except for some weird line thickness issues. pretty happy overall.
Just waiting on the chaining to install the cranks!
Race King 2.0 inch tires are a tight fit in the rear on 25mm rims. Will probably throw a 45 on the back and run a mullet setup once it gets wet.
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finishing building up my frame, did a custom paint job which came out pretty good except for some weird line thickness issues. pretty happy overall.
Just waiting on the chaining to install the cranks!
Race King 2.0 inch tires are a tight fit in the rear on 25mm rims. Will probably throw a 45 on the back and run a mullet setup once it gets wet.
very cool.. what cassette do you use on the Wheeltop?
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I replaced the aluminum crankset with a carbon Zrace one, and the build is fully completed.
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very cool.. what cassette do you use on the Wheeltop?
I used the 13 speed ztto 11-46t, with a 46t up front, and also ordered the 11-52t for steeper routes. Have not tested it yet though so performance is TBD.
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I replaced the aluminum crankset with a carbon Zrace one, and the build is fully completed.
Nice!
Which handlebar are you running?
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how do you install a derailleur hanger? It's supposed to rest on the stop on the frame when tightening but when installed like this it seems rotated too far forward and you can't actually get the wheel in
Here are the pics. When the hanger is installed i cant get the wheels in. Its over rotated forward. Any idea what's happening here?
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Nice!
Which handlebar are you running?
Integrated Bar 420/100
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Here are the pics. When the hanger is installed i cant get the wheels in. Its over rotated forward. Any idea what's happening here?
Unscrew the hanger and move it down rescrew it. Attention on the direction. Look at the UDH hanger installation tutorial.
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Unscrew the hanger and move it down rescrew it. Attention on the direction. Look at the UDH hanger installation tutorial.
Hanger is supposed to rest on the ridge of the dropout. When you tighten it, it naturally slots into it. I can unscrew it and move it back but then i have to eyeball the position and also somehow tighten it to 20nm while holding it by hand
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Anyone aware of a frame with this type of geo with downtube storage?
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Anyone aware of a frame with this type of geo with downtube storage?
maybe ican? https://www.icanbikes.com/Products-list/full-carbon-racing-gravel-frame-gra04/ (https://www.icanbikes.com/Products-list/full-carbon-racing-gravel-frame-gra04/) it's much more expensive though
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very cool.. what cassette do you use on the Wheeltop?
Update after ~50 miles on the bike. Using a 46t pass quest chainring, on a pes515 power meter crank set, with the ztto 11-46t cassette. Shifting is great and faster than my Shimano 105 di2 on my other bike. No issues with 13 speed setup, while running a dura ace 12 speed chain.
Overall super happy with the performance, the 11-46 cassette has tight spacing and feels pretty workable for a road bike even. Will probably throw on a 11-52 for steeper routes.
Frame feels very durable, but is very stiff and not particularly compliant. Fine if your running 50mm wheels, but it definitely feels harsh with 40mm g-one rs tires. Not too big an issue for $500 dollars, but definitely not the same as top of the line gravel frames out there now.
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Update after ~50 miles on the bike. Using a 46t pass quest chainring, on a pes515 power meter crank set, with the ztto 11-46t cassette. Shifting is great and faster than my Shimano 105 di2 on my other bike. No issues with 13 speed setup, while running a dura ace 12 speed chain.
Overall super happy with the performance, the 11-46 cassette has tight spacing and feels pretty workable for a road bike even. Will probably throw on a 11-52 for steeper routes.
Frame feels very durable, but is very stiff and not particularly compliant. Fine if your running 50mm wheels, but it definitely feels harsh with 40mm g-one rs tires. Not too big an issue for $500 dollars, but definitely not the same as top of the line gravel frames out there now.
Do you have a link to the exact casette that you bought? Great looking bike btw!
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Do you have a link to the exact casette that you bought? Great looking bike btw!
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809297938671.html
I got the 11-46t and the 11-52t, haven't tested the 11-52 but the 11-46 works well. Using the long cage version of the gex.
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I received the packet today. I'll send you some photos of the packaging and the parts received. The frame is well packaged, delivery will have lasted 17 days to France. The frame is very beautiful, I only chose RAW with glossy varnish. I started assembling the Sram Force Xplr 1x13 groupset. I've already stopped because I don't have the screws and the adapter support for the flat mount calipers of the front fork. I'll have to look for it at the store.
Frame size M without BB, axle and derailleur hanger 1156gr
Fork with axle : 506gr
Integrated Handle bar 420/100 : 380gr
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Work in progress ! Look badass :)
The build:
SRAM Force xplr 13 groupset
Rotor dub T47in bottom bracket
ZIPP 303 xplr sw
Tufo gravel thundero 48mm
RYET carbon 3d saddle
Carbon bottle cage
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I received the packet today. I'll send you some photos of the packaging and the parts received. The frame is well packaged, delivery will have lasted 17 days to France. The frame is very beautiful, I only chose RAW with glossy varnish. I started assembling the Sram Force Xplr 1x13 groupset. I've already stopped because I don't have the screws and the adapter support for the flat mount calipers of the front fork. I'll have to look for it at the store.
What's the size of the frame? Is the weight of the fork with the axle installed? About the frame weight, was it with the axle, derailleur hanger and bolts?
How much do the Thundero 48s measure on those wheels and what's the clearance, especially in the back?
Thanks
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Seems people are interested in frame Weights.
My frame XS clear coat gloss: 1147g.
Fork. 465g
Handle bar 374g
seatpost with bolts etc. 233g
parts bag with everything else. 370g.
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What's the size of the frame? Is the weight of the fork with the axle installed? About the frame weight, was it with the axle, derailleur hanger and bolts?
How much do the Thundero 48s measure on those wheels and what's the clearance, especially in the back?
Thanks
Tufo 48 measure 50mm and clearance is very good, larger tires must be fitted
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So I just received my frame and humm, im actually curious of what happened exactly with the logos
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So I just received my frame and humm, im actually curious of what happened exactly with the logos
Logos are not as you requested?
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Logos are not as you requested?
my guess is he requested LUMENIR
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No i requested lumen, its just that one has horizontal letter, and the other side vertical :/
It was the same logo as my vb 268, that they did correctly
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No i requested lumen, its just that one has horizontal letter, and the other side vertical :/
It was the same logo as my vb 268, that they did correctly
If it helps comfort you; My idiot brain still can't see it.. :o
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Used the same sticker on both side rather changing the direction of the italic font? :/
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Used the same sticker on both side rather changing the direction of the italic font? :/
Yes exactly ( I provided them both correct side as svg and .png when ordering)
But everything isnt bad, the paint job is well made and brake calipers are faced properly
Still a bit disappointed after 3month of waiting
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You can order custom decals from speedy decals (Italy). This guy does everything thing when it comes to decals! Just pick any decal and send him an email with your ideas.
Hi,
Do you have the final result with the decals, I like the idea to.
Do you knew the size of the tube before ordering the decals ? (for the height of the letters of "Tractor")
Thanks
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Could someone tell me if I need to install a flatmount adapter at the rear for a 160mm disc? I have the impression that the frame is designed for direct mounting for 160mm but I have a doubt.
If I can get a picture of a 160mm edit that would be cool too.
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Could someone tell me if I need to install a flatmount adapter at the rear for a 160mm disc? I have the impression that the frame is designed for direct mounting for 160mm but I have a doubt.
If I can get a picture of a 160mm edit that would be cool too.
Hi there,
Edit: The frame is indeed designed for direct mounting of 160mm rear!
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I've now ridden this for 200km and here's my take so far:
Handling & Geometry:
Fairly well balanced, although the front is prone to a bit of understeer in my view. This is probably a personal preference, and would make for a more stable steering experience compared to something with a steeper steering angle. After you get used to it it's actually quite good when cornering on the loose stuff, less twitchy compared to some of the racier options out there when going down sharp descent. But I prefer a little bit more active steering closer to road bike control. No toe overlap with Sphyre shoes if anyone wants to know.
Stiffness and responsiveness:
Short chainstays make for fairly rapid response, although my comparisons with other race gravel bikes would suggest it's not as stiff in the BB area, as the power transfer feels softer compared to i.e. the Kanzo Fast and my Lightcarbon. Read a page back from someone stating the bike is very stiff which is not my impression at all. Although I wouldn't go as far as to say that it's spongy, it's for sure not as stiff as my Kanzo Fast (which is known for it's rather stiff/ harsh character). Integrated handlesbar is fairly rigid, not harsh but not overly stiff either, well balanced.
Build experience
All went smooth, including setting up the brake calipers (which can be a bit hit or miss depending on the facing). T47 BB went in smooth and sits flat against the shell. Frame is completely latex moulded and has a perfect inside finish. Seatpost, handlebars and fork however use a bladder moulding tech so the routing through the bars was a bit messy, almost lost my routing tool in there and had to use some force and arm grease to get it unstuck. Overall though it went together just fine, headset was well done without too much play in the bearings and so far not seatpost slippage despite what some people have reported about Velobuilds previous designs with d-posts. Not overly excited with the UDH hanger, in tandem with my GRX derailleur it's made removal of the rear wheel way more fidgety compared to my other bikes, partially this might be due to the clutch and design of the derailleur though. Also not too happy about the 1.5pitch on the UDH thread as it makes it more difficult to find a direct mount replacement over on aliexpress (most seem to be 1.0mm thread pitch)
Setup:
Frame: Velobuild Race Gravel
Handlebars: Velobuild Integrated
Gears: GRX 1x11 11-40t, Ultegra shifters
Brakes: GRX calipers, 160mm + 160mm Rotors
Wheels: Farsports gravel wheelset 35mm
Tires: Rene Herse Snoqualmie 44mm (on gravel 2.0bar front, 2.5bar rear, on pavement 3.5+4.0bar)
Cranks: Easton EC90 SL
BB: AliExpress scraps
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I finally received my wheelset this week and the 0 mm offset chainring (and spacers - I have 3.5 mm chainstay clearance with 1 mm spacer and 48t chainring). However, I ran into new problems. The 13 speed Rival chain doesn’t fit the chainring, it seems. I tried putting on a used 12 speed D1 chain and it fits just fine (it’s stretched though). Any ideas where I got it wrong? The chainring is Sram AXS Flattop compatible and I understood the 12 and 13 speed chains were identical dimensions.
Here’s the chainring I bought: https://pq-bike.com/collections/110bcd-series/products/x110-bcd-5-bolt-oval
(Also, Pass Quest sent me oil slick chain bolts and not the black ones ordered and doesn’t seem to bother sending me the right ones)
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this means that the 12/13speed SRAM chains are actually different from older 12speed SRAM chains.
I'm wondering if also 13 speed latest SRAM chainrings are different form older 12 speed SRAM chainrings, because they are all listes as 12 speed compatible.
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The chains are the same as the 12sp Transmission MTB T-Type chains - not the same as the 12sp road chains.
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this means that the 12/13speed SRAM chains are actually different from older 12speed SRAM chains.
I'm wondering if also 13 speed latest SRAM chainrings are different form older 12 speed SRAM chainrings, because they are all listes as 12 speed compatible.
I just tested a new 12 speed Force D1 chain and it's the same as the E1 chain - so my old 12 speed chain is just stretched out. I guess the problem is with the chainring then...
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Hi there,
The frame is indeed designed for direct mounting of 160mm both front and rear!
Yes direct mount for rear but for front we need flat mount adapter in 160 position like this picture
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I just tested a new 12 speed Force D1 chain and it's the same as the E1 chain - so my old 12 speed chain is just stretched out. I guess the problem is with the chainring then...
the chainring is listed as Shimano, even if they wrote AXS compatible
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Here is my finished build.
Frame: Velobuild GF05 (XS)
Stem/handlebar: Velobuild 80/400
Groupset: SRAM Rival E1 XPLR Wide AXS (165mm)
Cassette: Rival XPLR 10-46
Wheels: Blackwire HyperWide 40 (1250g)
Tires: TUFO Thundero HD 700x44C
Saddle: RYET RT05 EVA
Weight: 7,95kg (without pedals, bottle cages, and computer mount)
(https://i.ibb.co/5WZrkgdH/IMG-2360.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5WZrkgdH)
Now it is time to hit the road and see how it rides, and make some final adjustments regarding the fit ;D
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I finally received my wheelset this week and the 0 mm offset chainring (and spacers - I have 3.5 mm chainstay clearance with 1 mm spacer and 48t chainring). However, I ran into new problems. The 13 speed Rival chain doesn’t fit the chainring, it seems. I tried putting on a used 12 speed D1 chain and it fits just fine (it’s stretched though). Any ideas where I got it wrong? The chainring is Sram AXS Flattop compatible and I understood the 12 and 13 speed chains were identical dimensions.
Here’s the chainring I bought: https://pq-bike.com/collections/110bcd-series/products/x110-bcd-5-bolt-oval
(Also, Pass Quest sent me oil slick chain bolts and not the black ones ordered and doesn’t seem to bother sending me the right ones)
I guess you would have probably figured it out yourself, if it would be the solution, but on your picture you did not align the narrow-wide teeth correctly to the chain.
Try to align the wide teeth with the chain section where two outer plates meet the tooth.
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I guess you would have probably figured it out yourself, if it would be the solution, but on your picture you did not align the narrow-wide teeth correctly to the chain.
Try to align the wide teeth with the chain section where two outer plates meet the tooth.
I think the picture might hide it, but I ran the wide teeth with the wide chain sections. After some discussion with Pass Quest, it turns out this chainring is not compatible with AXS (although their website says so), and they apparently have an identical chainring on their website with AXS added in the headline that is supposedly compatible.
I ended up getting a Wolftooth chainring from a local shop instead. Again, trouble presented itself and it would not fit my Magene P515 crank although it is 110bcd. I ended up taking off 0.5 mm of each of the inner interfaces of the 4 bolt attachments to make it fit. Tomorrow, I will receive a new chain (the other was too short for 46t/48t). Fingers crossed that I will be successful this time.
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I rode the first 200km. Overall, I am delighted. That frame and bike are great, with those light wheelsets it is a killer ;)
But...I experienced "seatpost slippage". Do you have any tips on how to resolve this issue?
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I rode the first 200km. Overall, I am delighted. That frame and bike are great, with those light wheelsets it is a killer ;)
But...I experienced "seatpost slippage". Do you have any tips on how to resolve this issue?
I guess carbon paste and overtorque
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yeah, lot of carbon paste can do a lot
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I will be more precise. While riding, especially on rough terrain, the saddle tends to tilt up or down (see the attached picture). It feels like the clamp in the seatpost isn’t holding it firmly enough.
Could this be a defect in the seatpost clamp system, or is there something I can adjust/tighten to fix it? Where to put that carbon paste exactly?
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I will be more precise. While riding, especially on rough terrain, the saddle tends to tilt up or down (see the attached picture). It feels like the clamp in the seatpost isn’t holding it firmly enough.
Could this be a defect in the seatpost clamp system, or is there something I can adjust/tighten to fix it? Where to put that carbon paste exactly?
I had the same issue on my VB 268 with the same saddle clamp
My solution was to overtorque a bit the saddle clamp (careful with carbon rails if you have them)
You could also put some friction paste specially for metal in between the seatpost metal hole and the saddle clamp
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I just discovered another issue with the paint "quality." After only 200 km, my handlebar bag caused this damage to my head tube. >:(
Should I cover/paint those areas? :-\
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You should always cover areas with tape where a bag or something else moves on the frame to protect the paint.
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You should always cover areas with tape where a bag or something else moves on the frame to protect the paint.
My previous bike rode over 10k km with that bag without any protection, and it looks better ;)
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I will be more precise. While riding, especially on rough terrain, the saddle tends to tilt up or down (see the attached picture). It feels like the clamp in the seatpost isn’t holding it firmly enough.
Could this be a defect in the seatpost clamp system, or is there something I can adjust/tighten to fix it? Where to put that carbon paste exactly?
I had same issue on my Lightcarbon with same 1 bolt fixing when I didnt use the torque wrench.
When I tighten the bolt at the specified torque (15Nm, that is a lot) I had no problems anymore. Does Velobuild specifiy a torque?
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I had same issue on my Lightcarbon with same 1 bolt fixing when I didnt use the torque wrench.
When I tighten the bolt at the specified torque (15Nm, that is a lot) I had no problems anymore. Does Velobuild specifiy a torque?
Switching the bolt to the opposite side and over-torquing it did the trick. Thanks.
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I’m finally eyeing the finish line with this project! I just did a bikefit on the home trainer and hope (if weather allows) to take it out for a spin tomorrow and fine tune brakes and derailleur (and put on some bartape). Will give my review on performance after a few rides 😊
Side note: Pass Quest removed the “compatible with SRAM Flattop chains” on their listing after I contacted them and asked why it didn’t fit my chain. They are trying to guilt trip me and refuse to offer any solution, so I’m stuck with a useless chainring (and the wrong chainbolts). Not too fond of Pass Quest after this.
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My previous bike rode over 10k km with that bag without any protection, and it looks better ;)
Better paint quality & luck
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So after 3 months and a half the frame finally arrived... I was one of the first to order. I ordered size XS, glossy UD carbon, both seatposts, no handlebar but with the semi-integrated headset.
I was fearing that they would forget to send me both seatposts and indeed... I'm missing the offset one. I've written to Chris let's see what he answers me.
I've only inspected the frame and weighted everything, so I can't give any build impressions.
The good:
- The price is the lowest you can get and no taxes or customs with XDB shipping
- The paint surprisingly seems well done and the weave under it is visible and cool
- the frames seems very well done inside, definitely latex mould
- the hardware is nothing exceptional but the wedge and the axles are well made
- the weights are sort of what's claimed ( the claimed 1020g I guess is unpainted and no hardware, mine was 1075g with the clear coat and no hardware) and it's definitely light for a gravel frame
Now let's go with the bad, some things I guess are expected at this price point - The top headset bearing doesn't fit because there is some excess resin in the frame, Some Dremel work should fix it but it's not acceptable, I've written to Chris
- The hole for the front and rear derailleur cable have the correct insert for a mechanical build but no plugs for di2 or axs
- The seatpost maximum insert is not that low: my saddle height is 70cm (not *that* low) and I will probably have to cut 1cm off the end of the seatpost
- Most of the holes had bolts, some didn't but I have ordered aluminum screws all over
- axles are not the lightest
and for some reason the rear is 1.0mm thread pitch which is less common and for no reason edit: SRAM UDH is 1.0mm pitch
Let's see how it's going to build up but for now I'm satisfied for what I got if only they refund me the missing seatpost
Weights:
Bare frame: 1075g
Bare fork, uncut: 456g
Seatpost wedge, front hanger, UDH, all the screws that came with the frame: 97g
Headset: 99g
Axles: 74g
Seatpost: 208g
Expander and top cap: 58g
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What paint job did you go for? Pictures, please!
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Now let's go with the bad, some things I guess are expected at this price point - The top headset bearing doesn't fit because there is some excess resin in the frame, Some Dremel work should fix it but it's not acceptable, I've written to Chris
- The hole for the front and rear derailleur cable have the correct insert for a mechanical build but no plugs for di2 or axs
- The seatpost maximum insert is not that low: my saddle height is 70cm (not *that* low) and I will probably have to cut 1cm off the end of the seatpost
- Most of the holes had bolts, some didn't but I have ordered aluminum screws all over
- axles are not the lightest
and for some reason the rear is 1.0mm thread pitch which is less common and for no reason edit: SRAM UDH is 1.0mm pitch
Nothing unusual and nothing that cant be fixed. All of my china frames needed a little tender love, except for my Longteng. That was perfect.
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I’m finally eyeing the finish line with this project! I just did a bikefit on the home trainer and hope (if weather allows) to take it out for a spin tomorrow and fine tune brakes and derailleur (and put on some bartape). Will give my review on performance after a few rides 😊
Side note: Pass Quest removed the “compatible with SRAM Flattop chains” on their listing after I contacted them and asked why it didn’t fit my chain. They are trying to guilt trip me and refuse to offer any solution, so I’m stuck with a useless chainring (and the wrong chainbolts). Not too fond of Pass Quest after this.
Nice build! What size is it and what is your height and inseam if I can ask you?
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Nice build! What size is it and what is your height and inseam if I can ask you?
Thanks! Height is 183 cm, inseam 88 and I got a size M. I bought the 380/100 mm integrated bars but I probably should have picked the 380/90 after fitting myself. I like an aggressive position, so I will see after a few rides if I'm too stretched out.
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I've had the chance to put in some longer rides over the last few weeks with my new setup – a couple of rides on 40 mm Challenge Strada Bianca tires, mostly on tarmac and some Cat-1 gravel.
First impressions: I’m really happy with how the bike performs. Both in terms of ride feel and on Strava segments, it’s noticeably faster on road and light gravel compared to my Cube NuRoad. The frame definitely seems to offer more aero potential, and the fit is spot on for me.
Honestly, for minimalists, this bike could easily be a true “one-bike-fits-all” solution – as long as you’re not doing road races, it covers just about everything. I even find myself reaching for the Velobuild with the 40s for pure road rides instead of my SL7, just because it’s so much fun. It almost rolls as well as a road bike, but can handle gravel no problem.
Last week, I took it out for some proper gravel sessions, including some seriously rocky sections and even singletrack. It’s quick and agile, and the 48 mm Thundero tires definitely contribute a lot to the ride quality. It also performs impressively well on 2.1” Thunder Burt tires, proving its versatility across different terrains. The Zipp SL80 bars are also growing on me – didn’t love them at first, but now I really appreciate the grippy, textured tops, especially in aero hoods and puppy paws position.
Only minor regret: in hindsight, I might have chosen the frame in “gloss over carbon” instead of matte black. Still debating whether to go 1x13 with the drivetrain, too.
All in all, super satisfied with the bike. It may get its first race outing this weekend.
And… the next China frame project is already in the works – more on that soon!
(P.S.: Please ignore the bar tape color, just a test run 😅)
40mm
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/image-2025-08-25t155223-167-jpg.1666178/)
48mm
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/img_0843-jpeg.1667060/)
2.1"
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/img_0883-jpeg.1667552/)
Tire clearance 48m:
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/img_0875-jpeg.1667555/)
Tire clearance 2.1"
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/img_0877-jpeg.1667553/)
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I've had the chance to put in some longer rides over the last few weeks with my new setup – a couple of rides on 40 mm Challenge Strada Bianca tires, mostly on tarmac and some Cat-1 gravel.
First impressions: I’m really happy with how the bike performs. Both in terms of ride feel and on Strava segments, it’s noticeably faster on road and light gravel compared to my Cube NuRoad. The frame definitely seems to offer more aero potential, and the fit is spot on for me.
Honestly, for minimalists, this bike could easily be a true “one-bike-fits-all” solution – as long as you’re not doing road races, it covers just about everything. I even find myself reaching for the Velobuild with the 40s for pure road rides instead of my SL7, just because it’s so much fun. It almost rolls as well as a road bike, but can handle gravel no problem.
Last week, I took it out for some proper gravel sessions, including some seriously rocky sections and even singletrack. It’s quick and agile, and the 48 mm Thundero tires definitely contribute a lot to the ride quality. It also performs impressively well on 2.1” Thunder Burt tires, proving its versatility across different terrains. The Zipp SL80 bars are also growing on me – didn’t love them at first, but now I really appreciate the grippy, textured tops, especially in aero hoods and puppy paws position.
Only minor regret: in hindsight, I might have chosen the frame in “gloss over carbon” instead of matte black. Still debating whether to go 1x13 with the drivetrain, too.
All in all, super satisfied with the bike. It may get its first race outing this weekend.
And… the next China frame project is already in the works – more on that soon!
(P.S.: Please ignore the bar tape color, just a test run 😅)
40mm
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/image-2025-08-25t155223-167-jpg.1666178/)
48mm
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/img_0843-jpeg.1667060/)
2.1"
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/img_0883-jpeg.1667552/)
Tire clearance 48m:
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/img_0875-jpeg.1667555/)
Tire clearance 2.1"
(https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attachments/img_0877-jpeg.1667553/)
Nice Setup(s) and thanks for the pics
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Hello.
Bike is almost finished
Just picture for tire clearance with Tufo gravel thundero 48 / zipp 303 xplr
The bike is superb, it's great to assemble it yourself. However, I find that the frame is missing some essential elements: the chain guard, the front derailleur cover and the protection under the frame. And above all, instructions with all the tightening torques.
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Hello guys,
I received my frame yesterday and built it the same day, here it's my build:
- Size XS with my "rouleur" logo
- Old Sram AXS 2X force with 46x33 front and 10x36 rear (might change for the newer shifters)
- For the moment I put my TT wheels, I'll build next week a gravel ones (37mm wide rims)
- Maxxis rambler tires on 40mm
I order the flared cockpit version but received the road style... I'm planning to change to a more gravel cockpit.
As I used my old road groupe, the clearance is not great as I have the non-wide front derailleur... I think the max I can have in this setup is 45mm
What do you think?
José
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Mine landed in Germany yesterday, I hope to receive it before the weekend!
In the meantime, I'm choosing the paint ::)
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Mine landed in Germany yesterday, I hope to receive it before the weekend!
In the meantime, I'm choosing the paint ::)
When did you order yours?
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When did you order yours?
I ordered it on August 14th
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Does anyone know how much custom paint costs? Nothing special just one color (e.g. green)?
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Does anyone know how much custom paint costs? Nothing special just one color (e.g. green)?
50$
options are here: https://www.velobuild.com/products/velobuild-customized-painting-fee
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What do you think?
Looks good, I ended up swinging by the hardware store and got some longer m5 bolts and washes and spaced my hanger out farther and just trimmed the FD. It shifts but def not as smooth but I typically stay within one ring for rides. But also I have the ltwoo one so there isn't the batteries length to deal with for me. Bike looks good tho.
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Just placed an order for a size M in matte black. Changed my mind about paint job after seeing the bike posted by tmhbrl, which my build will resemble heavily :)
Building mine with Elitewheels Gravel Aero+ wheels and SRAM Rival XPLR (unless I end up justifying Force ...).
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Oh, forgot to mention that it is being shipped out today! Or at least that's what I'm being told, fingers crossed.
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The frame is being delivered today, so I'll start working on it over the weekend.. is an XS and will be built with the Wheeltop GeX.. the paint will be something similar to the Pinarello Luxter Venice
I think I'll make two wheelset, a gravel-oriented with the Thunder Burt 2.1, and a more road-oriented version with the Gravelking slick or the Challenge Strada Bianca.
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Anyone else got 1.0 thru axle thread? mine came with this
It was written 1.5 on the website...
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The frame arrived yesterday, just finished painting.
The color is a "custom" version of Luxter Venice, so a mix of pearl white/silver/light blue/champagne.
I'll start putting the pieces together tomorrow.
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Those who have ridden their bikes for some time. How is the compliance/comfort level of this frame?
I am looking at Aerograv, GR201 and Mondince as potential options and while this seems like a favorite for me, the proprietary seatpost makes me hesitant. I am coming from 100/100 mtb fully (fm936) and would like to have a reasonably comfortable, compliant and fast setup with 2.1 TBs or similar. The frame/seatpost still plays major factor, hence wanting to hear first hand experiences.
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Temporary build... I took the wheels and crankset from my old gravel bike to get an idea.
The bike looks fantastic in terms of geometry and design. There's plenty of tire clearance and the weight is good. I think the final weight will be around 8,0/8,1 kg with these wheels and around 7,2/7,3 kg with the road wheelset.
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Those who have ridden their bikes for some time. How is the compliance/comfort level of this frame?
I am looking at Aerograv, GR201 and Mondince as potential options and while this seems like a favorite for me, the proprietary seatpost makes me hesitant. I am coming from 100/100 mtb fully (fm936) and would like to have a reasonably comfortable, compliant and fast setup with 2.1 TBs or similar. The frame/seatpost still plays major factor, hence wanting to hear first hand experiences.
Got a few hundred miles on mine, I don't think the frame is particularly compliant. Comparing to my canyon endurace, with 32mm tires, but has one of those compliant carbon seatposts (not a real suspension seatpost, but it can move around 2cm if i push hard on it), the canyon is considerably more compliant on rough pavement, even compared to 40mm tires on the velobuild. It looks like LightCarbon has some frames with pseudo suspension in the rear triangle that could be worth a look.
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Those who have ridden their bikes for some time. How is the compliance/comfort level of this frame?
I am looking at Aerograv, GR201 and Mondince as potential options and while this seems like a favorite for me, the proprietary seatpost makes me hesitant. I am coming from 100/100 mtb fully (fm936) and would like to have a reasonably comfortable, compliant and fast setup with 2.1 TBs or similar. The frame/seatpost still plays major factor, hence wanting to hear first hand experiences.
I have four rides on mine now and can definitely tell that the ride is more harsh and unforgiving than my old Grizl CF (also with the same flexy Canyon seatpost as asagilmore). I wanted a more racey bike, so I'm happy with this directness so far.
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Cant wait to ride mine... Lot of people are telling about the frame stiffness. For sure it's because of the aero shape of the seatpost. I'm wondering if the bb area is same stiff as the seatopost, I think that it would make a difference in pedalling efficency.
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I just went out for a ride in the rain and mud, the varnish is very very fragile. I almost removed everything around the wheel arches. I will have to consider re-varnishing the entire frame later.
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Temporary build... I took the wheels and crankset from my old gravel bike to get an idea.
The bike looks fantastic in terms of geometry and design. There's plenty of tire clearance and the weight is good. I think the final weight will be around 8,0/8,1 kg with these wheels and around 7,2/7,3 kg with the road wheelset.
Nice color. I would be careful with painting the seatpost though. A friend of mine have pinarello f7 with a painted seatpost and the clamp keeps getting stuck in the frame because it bites into the paint on the seatpost
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Nice color. I would be careful with painting the seatpost though. A friend of mine have pinarello f7 with a painted seatpost and the clamp keeps getting stuck in the frame because it bites into the paint on the seatpost
The paint reaches just below the rubber cover.
Anyway, this is the road/mixed built.. I haven't decided yet the crankset, for now I'll use the old Force 22 with a 40t chainring.
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For anyone not using the Velobuild handlebar, which spacers did you use?
Unfortunately the Rose Gravel cockpit came without any spacers
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People that have been so kind to post pictures of their build: How deep rims are you running?
I'm getting my frame soon, but have not ordered wheels yet. Was thinking 38 mm, but tempted to go 50 mm purely because is might look better on a aero'ish looking frame.
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People that have been so kind to post pictures of their build: How deep rims are you running?
I'm getting my frame soon, but have not ordered wheels yet. Was thinking 38 mm, but tempted to go 50 mm purely because is might look better on a aero'ish looking frame.
XS frame - 40mm depth, 30mm inner width, Carbon T1000
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For those who used the original headset: is it normal for there to be no "connection" between the centering ring and the cover (the first spacer)? :o
Usually, there's a pin, just like there is between the spacers and the handlebars.
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After messing up a few times (wrong chainrings, too short chain, realizing I miss parts etc.), I’ve now had 6-7 rides on my new bike. I hope to get the weight down to around 8.5 kg next year.
Frame: Size M with integrated bars (380/100 mm) in Pearl White
Wheels: Elitewheels Aero+ Gravel (45 mm depth, 32 mm internal width)
Group: SRAM Rival E1 13-Speed
Crankset: Magene P515 Powermeter
Chainring: WolfTooth 46T 110bcd with Drop-stop B
BB: Senicx T47
Saddle: Ryet
Full build weight: 8.9 kg (with pedals, bottle cages, Wahoo mount etc.)
Total cost: ca. 3.000 EUR (with a few tools, titanium bolts etc.)
First impressions:
This bike is fast! Even though I’ve been without a bike for 10 weeks (and in poor shape), I set a few PRs already. I feel it’s a lot faster on smooth gravel and pavement than my old Grizl CF (Rival XPLR and Zipp XPLR 303S). On rougher terrain, I’m not sure what’s fastest, the Grizl felt a bit more stable. But rough terrain is rare in my area, so I’ll happily take a little beating once in a while.
The Rival group is awesome. Coming from the 12-speed version, the brakes are miles better, the hoods are more comfortable and the extra cog on the cassette makes things a little more smooth. I miss my old XPLR 303 S wheelset a little (maybe because it looked cooler), but the Elitewheels are also awesome and a little lighter than the Zipp wheels.
Future upgrades:
- 48t aero chainring
- Lighter pedals (have XTR in stock that needs service)
- Pathfinder Pro TLR 45 or the new Caracal Race in 45
- Different handlebar and stem (I need a little shorter reach)
(sorry for the non-drive side image - and yes, the direction of the front tire is wrong in the first picture 8) )
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Asked for a burnt terracotta with a satin (50/50 ish matte/gloss) clear, I got metallic copper, also the same decal printed for both L + R sides - although that was really my fault, I should have sent them the R (drive side :( ) decal too. I asked them to not place a decal but mask the paint, so it's in negative space. Then, the fork is raw + satin (looks nice in the sun) and insides are also burnt orange/copper. I'm really happy with how it turned out considering the price. I got some wax and some brown dye, mixed the two of them, and applied to the frame just to knock the color down ever so slightly in terms of brightness. Either way, I'm happy and I'd do their custom painting again.
Build:
Frame in L
LightBicycle WR45s
50mm G-One RX/R front/rear (tons of room in the front, would be happy to fit a 2.25 in there, would probably do 2.1 in the rear too)
Rival XPLR derailleur
Force XPLR hoods + brakes (wanted the bonus buttons)
EVOSID fake 5DEV MTB cranks 165mm (spindle is too long, ordered a smaller one. Until then, 8mm spacer on the LHS lol)
Ti bottle cages
RYET saddle
Bikedoc 34/40 bar + Kalloy UNO Project 120mm stem
Weighs about 8.8kg with pedals etc. - 8.3 with the road wheelset and tires on. The crank is pretty heavy, I used Ti bolts on the frame to drop a handful of grams. Derailleur/crank/cassette could easily drop 500-600g if I spent more, but all in, the cost was about £2200. Can't argue with that
I'm 197cm and all torso and the stem works great for me, but it's long.
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Asked for a burnt terracotta with a satin (50/50 ish matte/gloss) clear, I got metallic copper, also the same decal printed for both L + R sides - a......
Did you had the chance to weigh the frame as well? I'm curious about the weight of a painted frame size L.
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Just finished up an AeroGrav build. Only took it for a short 8Km shake out ride but it's feeling really good so far. Moved over most of the components from my VB GF-002 build:
- VB Wave wheels 45mm
- VB integrated bars
- GRX Di2 groupset
- Oval Woolftooth chainring
- Stages left crank PM
- Token T47 BB
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RC 45 tires set up tubeless
- Shimano XT SPD pedals
- Fabric saddle
- Supacaz tape
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Did you had the chance to weigh the frame as well? I'm curious about the weight of a painted frame size L.
I did not, because I am dumb 8)
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This is mine almost finished.
With these tires (Panaracer Gravelking 38mm) on tarmac it is very fast while still allowing me to ride on dirt roads and fields that I couldn't do with real road tires.
I have a second wheelset with Thunder Burts.
I just need to get a crankset/power meter and put some stickers on it.
The options are Red, Big Rock, or Leese + Xcadey spider.
The Red is the lightest, but the others have a 24mm axle, so I can easily move them from one bike to another.
Or I'll keep the Force 22 and get the Favero MX.
It's a tough choice ;D
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Just finished up an AeroGrav build. Only took it for a short 8Km shake out ride but it's feeling really good so far. Moved over most of the components from my VB GF-002 build:
Glad to see it on the forum after seeing it on their IG
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This is mine almost finished.
With these tires (Panaracer Gravelking 38mm) on tarmac it is very fast while still allowing me to ride on dirt roads and fields that I couldn't do with real road tires.
I have a second wheelset with Thunder Burts.
I just need to get a crankset/power meter and put some stickers on it.
The options are Red, Big Rock, or Leese + Xcadey spider.
The Red is the lightest, but the others have a 24mm axle, so I can easily move them from one bike to another.
Or I'll keep the Force 22 and get the Favero MX.
It's a tough choice ;D
Is the cassette the 12-speed 10-51 Goldix? That's the one I bought, but I'm still waiting for the frame, and I want to know if it works well and how noisy it is. I'll also be installing the Wheeltop GEX.
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Is the cassette the 12-speed 10-51 Goldix? That's the one I bought, but I'm still waiting for the frame, and I want to know if it works well and how noisy it is. I'll also be installing the Wheeltop GEX.
It's the Goldix 11-51... It's actually a bit noisy in some gears, I'll have to try lube the chain a bit to see if that makes any difference.
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It's the Goldix 11-51... It's actually a bit noisy in some gears, I'll have to try lube the chain a bit to see if that makes any difference.
Okay, you've chosen the HG hub one. Mine is the same but for an XDR hub, that's why the smallest one is 10t. Well, I'll try out how it performs, but I chose it to make it a mullet setup and I loved the style of the SRAM cassette. What chainring have you put on and what size? And the chain?
Thanks.
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Okay, you've chosen the HG hub one. Mine is the same but for an XDR hub, that's why the smallest one is 10t. Well, I'll try out how it performs, but I chose it to make it a mullet setup and I loved the style of the SRAM cassette. What chainring have you put on and what size? And the chain?
Thanks.
The chainring is a 40t evosid, but as I said, it's all temporary because I'm using the old crankset.
On these wheels, I'll use a Ztto 11-36, which is better spaced for road use.. I'll use this Goldix 11-51 with the Thunder Burt (I only needed it to cut the chain).
The chain is a Ztto 12s.
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Just finished up an AeroGrav build. Only took it for a short 8Km shake out ride but it's feeling really good so far. Moved over most of the components from my VB GF-002 build:
- VB Wave wheels 45mm
- VB integrated bars
- GRX Di2 groupset
- Oval Woolftooth chainring
- Stages left crank PM
- Token T47 BB
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RC 45 tires set up tubeless
- Shimano XT SPD pedals
- Fabric saddle
- Supacaz tape
I see they hired the painter from SPCycle mentoined in the other thread ;) https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6099.msg83635.html#msg83635
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Hello everyone,
Can anyone tell me anything about the integrated cockpit, such as flare, etc.? It seems to me to be a classic road bike cockpit and not specifically designed for gravel, right?
Best regards
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Hello everyone,
Can anyone tell me anything about the integrated cockpit, such as flare, etc.? It seems to me to be a classic road bike cockpit and not specifically designed for gravel, right?
Best regards
I guess they only have one integrated cockpit (if somebody with more knowledge can confirm) and you may find details here: https://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing
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I guess they only have one integrated cockpit (if somebody with more knowledge can confirm) and you may find details here: https://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing
If you email Chris, they can exchange it for an integrated handlebar with flare. I'm attaching the image they sent me so I could choose the size I wanted; I exchanged it at no additional cost. I chose a 90mm stem and 400mm top / 462mm bottom width.
(http://flaredbar.jpg)
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If you email Chris, they can exchange it for an integrated handlebar with flare. I'm attaching the image they sent me so I could choose the size I wanted; I exchanged it at no additional cost. I chose a 90mm stem and 400mm top / 462mm bottom width.
(http://flaredbar.jpg)
This is awesome! Thanks!
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I got my frame! XL frame in Pearl White.
I’m not a weight weenie, but a quick check of weight - the frame is around 1300 g.
The paint is a bit thin in some areas and I’m missing the through axle for the back wheel. But overall it looks good.
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I also received mine, and everything looks good. Will say though that I hope I will be able to use the setback seatpost as I don't like the patent on the zero setback one. The head of the one with setback is very similar to a Hylix post I have (I ordered both seatposts and no bars, only the carbon stem - which is passable, I guess).
Wasn't able to find a way to balance the frame on my kitchen scale, so no precise measurement so far. I will weigh it with a fishing weight later. Size M matte finish, no paint is roughly 1140 g.
I will probably realistically only use the bottle cage bolts. Any ideas for black nylon bolts to plug the rest of the holes?
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Anyone here know what length bolt they used for the front brake mounting? I am running SRAM Rival/Force flat mount brakes front and rear. I ordered 37mm for the rear but unsure on the fronts.
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Can a 140mm rotor fit on the rear, or 160 only?
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Can a 140mm rotor fit on the rear, or 160 only?
Only 160mm
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My frame is finally arrived.
Im going to build it with with Wheeltop Gex groupset and SRAM 10 44 drivetrain.
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What's the biggest 1x chainring someone has used on here? I'm aware they recommend max of 44(?) But am thinking of using this as winter road and gravel bike so would like to have a larger chainring for threshold intervals on flat.
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I think I saw someone fit a 48t sram chainring on this
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What's the biggest 1x chainring someone has used on here? I'm aware they recommend max of 44(?) But am thinking of using this as winter road and gravel bike so would like to have a larger chainring for threshold intervals on flat.
46t fit fine for me, but only has a few mm of space so not sure about 48, maybe if you spaced it but the chainline would be bad.
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What's the biggest 1x chainring someone has used on here? I'm aware they recommend max of 44(?) But am thinking of using this as winter road and gravel bike so would like to have a larger chainring for threshold intervals on flat.
I'm running 46t and have around 3-3,5 mm clearance. I plan on putting on a 48t next year, but I will probably need to add a small spacer for that.
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Anyone here know what length bolt they used for the front brake mounting? I am running SRAM Rival/Force flat mount brakes front and rear. I ordered 37mm for the rear but unsure on the fronts.
Im running SRAM Rival flat mount. 32mm for the rear and 15mm for the front is what was required. Dont forget you need the mounting plate for the front as well.
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Im running SRAM Rival flat mount. 32mm for the rear and 15mm for the front is what was required. Dont forget you need the mounting plate for the front as well.
Sweet, thanks for the confirmation!
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My frame arrived a few weeks ago (Size S, glossy black, with both seatpost options, separate Bar + Stem Combination of velobuild) and i am about to start my first build.
But i am already clueless in the first steps into the build... So i want to install the fork, spacers and stem to measure where to cut the fork. But as everything keeps feeling very loose i am not sure what i am doing wrong.
From my understanding the steps should be like this:
- install upper and lower bearing
- install the crown-race on the fork to create the right angle that fits in the lower bearing
- put the fork through the steerer tube
- install the compression ring that holds the fork in place (as shown in the picture)
- then install the "cover" where the spacers fit onto
But if i do it in this order, the "cover" (what i am holding in the picture) does not fit properly on to the compression ring and there is a gap between steerer tube and the cover. I'm wondering why this “cover” on the underside, which rests on the compression ring, has these small holes if there are no corresponding counterparts, i.e., “pins,” that fit into these holes. This makes me doubt whether I have understood the structure correctly at all.
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I the case of my frame there was also a gap between the compression ring and cover. Luckily I had another c-ring (which was not that thick) and now the gap is acceptable.
In case you're from germany you can send me dm (no language barrier).
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My frame arrived a few weeks ago (Size S, glossy black, with both seatpost options, separate Bar + Stem Combination of velobuild) and i am about to start my first build.
But i am already clueless in the first steps into the build... So i want to install the fork, spacers and stem to measure where to cut the fork. But as everything keeps feeling very loose i am not sure what i am doing wrong.
From my understanding the steps should be like this:
- install upper and lower bearing
- install the crown-race on the fork to create the right angle that fits in the lower bearing
- put the fork through the steerer tube
- install the compression ring that holds the fork in place (as shown in the picture)
- then install the "cover" where the spacers fit onto
But if i do it in this order, the "cover" (what i am holding in the picture) does not fit properly on to the compression ring and there is a gap between steerer tube and the cover. I'm wondering why this “cover” on the underside, which rests on the compression ring, has these small holes if there are no corresponding counterparts, i.e., “pins,” that fit into these holes. This makes me doubt whether I have understood the structure correctly at all.
On my case on first installation the bearings were not on their place and I had a big gap. I had to push them more than usual (just using my fingers) to make the gap normal.
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I finished my build .
The frame rides great, it’s stiff as a lot of people said. Stiff for road vibrations but stiff also under pedal strokes, at least for my level of torque ;D
I just have a little issue with the Wheeltop RD.
It seems that is too close to the frame, hitting it when the chain is not on.
Hanger seems to be installed in the correct way.
To avoid that it hits the frame when chain is on I had to make the chain very short and to operate on the B screw to have more distance from RD and frame and cogs. Anyway the RD doesn’t work bad.
Attached few pics of the final build and of the details after the shakedown
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Had the exact same issue with the gex RD touching the chainstay on my GR201 w/o chain mounted. Did solve it in the same way, 2 links less and b-screw adjustment.
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Had the exact same issue with the gex RD touching the chainstay on my GR201 w/o chain mounted. Did solve it in the same way, 2 links less and b-screw adjustment.
I also run into that problem and I used the same fix.
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How does your paint quality hold up over time? I have some visible scratches here and there after 700km :-\ This may be due to the choice of a semi-matt paint finish, I think :'(
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Hi guys,
does anyone have a comparison between this frame and BXT-135. I'm planning to build new gravel soon and wondering if there's difference in quality between those two.
Velobuild frame looks a little bit better and can fit wider tyre. Price is similar so just wondering how it is in terms of quality.
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How does your paint quality hold up over time? I have some visible scratches here and there after 700km :-\ This may be due to the choice of a semi-matt paint finish, I think :'(
It seems that paint is very thin and delicate also on mine. Even if it's a glossy finish.
Anyway also on my previous black matt Giant Revolt it was the same.
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Dumb question time (first time I'm building a bike):
Do you use outer housing, inside the frame, together with the gear wire?
I would assume yes. Asked a friend, he said no. The confusion got complete when Shimano only delivers one outer housing (1700 mm) with a set of 2x2100 mm gear wire.
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Dumb question time (first time I'm building a bike):
Do you use outer housing, inside the frame, together with the gear wire?
I would assume yes. Asked a friend, he said no. The confusion got complete when Shimano only delivers one outer housing (1700 mm) with a set of 2x2100 mm gear wire.
Yes, you have to use outer housing all the way through
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Yes, you have to use outer housing all the way through
Thank you.
I was also pretty sure, but the Shimano part really did not help my confidence..
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Im running SRAM Rival flat mount. 32mm for the rear and 15mm for the front is what was required. Dont forget you need the mounting plate for the front as well.
Hi, will these bolts and the mounting plate normally be included when I purchase a set of levers/brakes (SRAM Rival in my case)? Or do I need to source it somewhere else?
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I finally put on the Sram red cranks, the Favero assioma MX will arrive next week.
The weight is more or less as expected... in this version, with 29" and 11-51 cassette, we are around 8.2 kg. With the Gravelking 38mm and 11-36 cassette, 7.3 kg.
With the 29 obviously more comfortable and faster on rough terrain... but I think that for the winter, with the racing bike placed on the trainer, I will use it mainly with the 38mm.
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Hi, will these bolts and the mounting plate normally be included when I purchase a set of levers/brakes (SRAM Rival in my case)? Or do I need to source it somewhere else?
I had to get it separately. Bought the full Rival E1 groupset from Bike-discount. I also had to get those Majig fittings for the brake hoses separately.
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Hi, will these bolts and the mounting plate normally be included when I purchase a set of levers/brakes (SRAM Rival in my case)? Or do I need to source it somewhere else?
No, usually not supplied as you need different plates and bolts depending on the frame. eg: you do not need a plate for 160mm at the rear on this frame. SRAM sell the bolts but charge an arm and a leg. Front you need a plate and the sram plate comes with mounting bolts.
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Size recommendations: My height is 1,80m and inseam is 84cm. I thougt getting the M frame but my current bike has a similar geometry in the front and I would like to get a lil lower stack-wise. I have rather longer arms and maybe I can get away with S and a longer stem…
Any people here with the same issues?
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Hi folks
Anyone using this as a pure road bike, as I'm quite liking the thoughts of a lot longer reach than I currently have.
Cheers!
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I am suffering - trying to understand the topic of optimal chainline / chainring Offset.
Here is my current understanding:
Mounting 50mm tyres to this frame, I will have to opt for a chainline of at least 47.5mm to clear the tyre, but getting any bigger the drivetrain becomes exponentially more inefficient.
So you really try to hit that sweet spot. Doing so with any AXS XPLR crankset is easy, taking either newer E1 wide / or older D1 wide and changing the 2x chainrings to any AXS or XPLR 1x model, because the offset is the same across those two groupset families - 6mm.
Now the confusing part: If I want to opt for any 3rd party cranks / aero chainring the standards get thrown around like crazy. Seemingly there are only either 45mm cranksets, or 49.7mm chainline cranksets - which is crazy wide, even for shimano grx. To combat, you could then put a 3mm offset chainring on those, making it an effective 46.7mm - close enough to clear 50mm tyres?
Downside being, you have to use plenty spacers on such a long spindle.
Even weirder are the offerings of Pass Quest, Senicx etc. to me, because they only offer 8bolt/3bolt chainrings with either 0mm or 3mm offset - which does not work on the "standard" dub wide cranks they were made for - because it shifts the chainline to either 50.5mm or even 53.5mm - MTB territory.
What am I getting wrong here?
A 46T/48T aero 1x chainring is clearly made for either gravel or road, so it should adhere to Srams 6mm standard offset. But no aftermarket product does?!
How do you Guys combat this? Am I getting my numbers wrong? Or are you just forever suffering from suboptimal chainline? :'(
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I am suffering - trying to understand the topic of optimal chainline / chainring Offset.
Here is my current understanding:
Mounting 50mm tyres to this frame, I will have to opt for a chainline of at least 47.5mm to clear the tyre, but getting any bigger the drivetrain becomes exponentially more inefficient.
So you really try to hit that sweet spot. Doing so with any AXS XPLR crankset is easy, taking either newer E1 wide / or older D1 wide and changing the 2x chainrings to any AXS or XPLR 1x model, because the offset is the same across those two groupset families - 6mm.
Now the confusing part: If I want to opt for any 3rd party cranks / aero chainring the standards get thrown around like crazy. Seemingly there are only either 45mm cranksets, or 49.7mm chainline cranksets - which is crazy wide, even for shimano grx. To combat, you could then put a 3mm offset chainring on those, making it an effective 46.7mm - close enough to clear 50mm tyres?
Downside being, you have to use plenty spacers on such a long spindle.
Even weirder are the offerings of Pass Quest, Senicx etc. to me, because they only offer 8bolt/3bolt chainrings with either 0mm or 3mm offset - which does not work on the "standard" dub wide cranks they were made for - because it shifts the chainline to either 50.5mm or even 53.5mm - MTB territory.
What am I getting wrong here?
A 46T/48T aero 1x chainring is clearly made for either gravel or road, so it should adhere to Srams 6mm standard offset. But no aftermarket product does?!
How do you Guys combat this? Am I getting my numbers wrong? Or are you just forever suffering from suboptimal chainline? :'(
There are 6mm offset offerings (like this 46T from wolftooth https://r2-bike.com/WOLF-TOOTH-Kettenblatt-Aero-Road-Gravel-Direct-Mount-Drop-Stop-B-1-fach-SRAM-8-Loch-schwarz?iso=DE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22594505661&gclid=CjwKCAjwuePGBhBZEiwAIGCVSy56LOV_-vM3OmIB50RSCZE-liIyYMc-dogZK5t-nait7jrRJrlUmxoCRE8QAvD_BwE)
But most AliX models are all either 3mm or 0mm.
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Size recommendations: My height is 1,80m and inseam is 84cm. I thougt getting the M frame but my current bike has a similar geometry in the front and I would like to get a lil lower stack-wise. I have rather longer arms and maybe I can get away with S and a longer stem…
Any people here with the same issues?
Since the frame is pretty similar to the Ridley ASTR, they are also on the Ridley side of sizing. So it is usually a size down than other brands. I am riding a M Frame on my Ridley Helium, with 187 and 89 inseam and I will also order a M Velobuild frame. The frame has a very racy geometry for a gravel bike, with a pretty long reach, keep that in mind. There are some pretty good sites for comparing different frame sizes, like https://www.bike-stats.de/ they also have the Aero Grav listed. Hope that helps :-)
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I'm in the process of building my bike, and the small cogs are making a lot of noise around the cassette, not the derailleur. I don't know if it's the cassette or the chain.
My setup consists of a Senicx PR3 crankset with a 42-tooth Goldix chainring with a 0 mm offset and a 49.7 mm chainline. The cassette is a Goldix MTB for a 12-speed 10-51-tooth XD freehub mounted on an XDR freehub with a 1.85 mm spacer behind the cassette. The chain is a stock SRAM GX 12-speed chainring and a GEX wheeltop derailleur.
Can you tell me what it could be? Is this normal, or do I need to change something?
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7tbQw9ZkT-M (https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7tbQw9ZkT-M)
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I'm in the process of building my bike, and the small cogs are making a lot of noise around the cassette, not the derailleur. I don't know if it's the cassette or the chain.
My setup consists of a Senicx PR3 crankset with a 42-tooth Goldix chainring with a 0 mm offset and a 49.7 mm chainline. The cassette is a Goldix MTB for a 12-speed 10-51-tooth XD freehub mounted on an XDR freehub with a 1.85 mm spacer behind the cassette. The chain is a stock SRAM GX 12-speed chainring and a GEX wheeltop derailleur.
Can you tell me what it could be? Is this normal, or do I need to change something?
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7tbQw9ZkT-M (https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7tbQw9ZkT-M)
On paper you should need a 3mm offset chainring, but technically you should get more trouble on the big cogs currently, so ymmv. Chainline is a funny thing.
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On paper you should need a 3mm offset chainring, but technically you should get more trouble on the big cogs currently, so ymmv. Chainline is a funny thing.
It seems to me that it's the Shimano Grx chain line. The best thing would be to put a 3mm offset to improve the performance of the upper sprockets and not have them so diagonal. But the sound is in the lower ones when the chain is straighter, which is why I'm surprised.
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I'm in the process of building my bike, and the small cogs are making a lot of noise around the cassette, not the derailleur. I don't know if it's the cassette or the chain.
My setup consists of a Senicx PR3 crankset with a 42-tooth Goldix chainring with a 0 mm offset and a 49.7 mm chainline. The cassette is a Goldix MTB for a 12-speed 10-51-tooth XD freehub mounted on an XDR freehub with a 1.85 mm spacer behind the cassette. The chain is a stock SRAM GX 12-speed chainring and a GEX wheeltop derailleur.
Can you tell me what it could be? Is this normal, or do I need to change something?
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7tbQw9ZkT-M (https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7tbQw9ZkT-M)
I have the same cassette but for HG freehub (11-51).. it is quite a bit noisier (especially on the small sprockets) than the ztto 11-36.. it is not an alignment problem but I think it is a question of resonance of the monoblock structure.. consider that it is very light... the same thing happened on some old SRAM cassettes.
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I have the same cassette but for HG freehub (11-51).. it is quite a bit noisier (especially on the small sprockets) than the ztto 11-36.. it is not an alignment problem but I think it is a question of resonance of the monoblock structure.. consider that it is very light... the same thing happened on some old SRAM cassettes.
Thanks for confirming it for me. Because everything looked fine, and the shifting was working properly. In this case, have you tried other similar-range 10-51t cassettes that are lightweight, work well, and don't make that kind of noise? I'd like to return this one and install another. I have XDR and HG freehubs for my wheels.
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I'm in the process of building my bike, and the small cogs are making a lot of noise around the cassette, not the derailleur. I don't know if it's the cassette or the chain.
My setup consists of a Senicx PR3 crankset with a 42-tooth Goldix chainring with a 0 mm offset and a 49.7 mm chainline. The cassette is a Goldix MTB for a 12-speed 10-51-tooth XD freehub mounted on an XDR freehub with a 1.85 mm spacer behind the cassette. The chain is a stock SRAM GX 12-speed chainring and a GEX wheeltop derailleur.
Can you tell me what it could be? Is this normal, or do I need to change something?
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7tbQw9ZkT-M (https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7tbQw9ZkT-M)
Did you try to change settings of RD setting initial position more left or right?
I had some issues to find the best chain lenght to shift properly on the smallest cog, but not about noise (with sram chain and cassette 12s)
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I saw some of you builded this bike with a Magene PES Powermeter. If i remember correctly magene stated on their website the PES Crankset wont work with T47 frames. How did you get it to work on this frame?
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Did you try to change settings of RD setting initial position more left or right?
I had some issues to find the best chain lenght to shift properly on the smallest cog, but not about noise (with sram chain and cassette 12s)
Yes, and it's centered with the small sprocket, and the shifting works correctly. It does make this noise, though, which could be due to the lightweight cassette. From what I've seen and heard, SRAM has this same problem with cassettes, and I've seen the noise sometimes reduce after the chain and cassette have settled in. It also doesn't help that it's a freshly hot-waxed chain. I've broken it in before putting it on, but it's always stiffer for the first 20km.
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Hi guys
Would someone be kind enough to measure the forks center axle to crown for me please.
Thanks in advance!
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Hi guys
Would someone be kind enough to measure the forks center axle to crown for me please.
Thanks in advance!
It's around 39cm if i measure it correctly
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Many thanks!
Really appreciate it.
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Finished my build, havent ridden it yet. XS with Gloss clearcoat. 8.75Kg with pedals and 48mm tyres. Mostly sram axs rival 43/30 10-44.
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Built here worked out nicely too, gf very happy with it. 8.5kg incl pedals and 50mm G One R.
Mix of Rival, Force and Red parts. Rides incredibly well.
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Do you think if it is possible to ask them not to drill holes for bosses for fenders, front derailleur, bottom of downtube? All these extra holes are bothering me a bit.
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Don't ask us. Ask them and you will get an answer.
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Finally finished mine. Size XL transparent green finish built with ltwoo eGR groupset (swapped stock calipers for magura), leese DUB crankset with pass quest oval chainring, e*13 9-44 cassette, Yuanan gravel wheels with conti hardpack 50mm tires. Weight with the pedals is exactly 8.5kg.
I still need to face brake caliper mounting surfaces since it's impossible to align the brakes.
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Nice paint job!
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My frame arrived yesterday and I'm pretty happy with it so far. It looks almost like a Ridley ASTR.
Two Things to keep in mind:
1. The frame has a lot of bolts (bottle cages, mud guards etc.) Those bolts look cheap on a black frame. So I ordered black bolts for the hole frame from Amazon.
2. (and that is my fault - but VB takes here a dumb route): the rear axle has a 1.5 thread and is not compatible with a sram axs transmission. A transmission RD needs an axle with 1.0 thread. So I had to order that as well...
Looking forward to finish the build and post some pictures. (FYI: 50mm Conti Terra Hardpack on 30mm inner width rim has enough clearance).
Hi,
I’m planning to building this frame out with transmission RD as well (12sp GX Eagle Transmission). Does this one require 1.0 axle as well? Where did you order yours? Straight from Velobuild?
Thanks
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Hi,
I just ordered this frameset and now I am planning my build. Has anyone used a different cockpit or a separated handlebar with routing throug the stem beside the one from Velobuild? Bought mine without bar and now I am wondering if it will work with this headset and a different stem, propaply the FSA SMR.
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Hi,
I’m planning to building this frame out with transmission RD as well (12sp GX Eagle Transmission). Does this one require 1.0 axle as well? Where did you order yours? Straight from Velobuild?
Thanks
It was not a 1.0 axle included when I bought mine. So I bought another one (I mentioned the measurements etc. a few pages before)
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Mine came with the correct axle for 13s Xplr deraillers.
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Mine as well.
In the process of building mine now, only missing brake rotors and I have not connected the hoses to the levers or bled the brakes. This is my first time building a bike bith both full internal routing and hydraulic brakes, and I was a bit worried that I would run into loads of problems. So far everything has gone extremely smooth and according to plan! I didn't even have to use the internal routing tool I bought (granted, I didn't have to route the hoses through the handlebar as it has a groove on the underside for this).
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Built here worked out nicely too, gf very happy with it. 8.5kg incl pedals and 50mm G One R.
Mix of Rival, Force and Red parts. Rides incredibly well.
Which frame size is this and what color did you choose? And is that a Rose Backroad FF cockpit?
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Which frame size is this and what color did you choose? And is that a Rose Backroad FF cockpit?
Size S, color: I just gave them the Ral colour we wanted. Indeed Backroad FF cockpit, doesn’t fit great, but we managed with some Ali spacers…
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Hi all,
Building up another one of these frames with a 2x setup using the wheeltop eds TX.
Running into a super weird issue where I can't mount the FD high enough to clear the big chaining, despite having a 50-34 chainring, which is in spec for their listed 53t max.
Anyone else run into this issue, is this a wheeltop issue or the frame? I emailed velobuild but haven't heard back after a while. Seems like a pretty big issue if this is a manufacturing error.
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Hi all,
Building up another one of these frames with a 2x setup using the wheeltop eds TX.
Running into a super weird issue where I can't mount the FD high enough to clear the big chaining, despite having a 50-34 chainring, which is in spec for their listed 53t max.
Anyone else run into this issue, is this a wheeltop issue or the frame? I emailed velobuild but haven't heard back after a while. Seems like a pretty big issue if this is a manufacturing error.
I was running an ltwoo 2x with a 52 front and I didnt have an issue. I will say that it was maxed at the top of the hanger but it worked.
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Hi all,
Building up another one of these frames with a 2x setup using the wheeltop eds TX.
Running into a super weird issue where I can't mount the FD high enough to clear the big chaining, despite having a 50-34 chainring, which is in spec for their listed 53t max.
Anyone else run into this issue, is this a wheeltop issue or the frame? I emailed velobuild but haven't heard back after a while. Seems like a pretty big issue if this is a manufacturing error.
from the pictures it looks like the height is ok but the derailleur should be rotated counter-clockwise to clear the big ring. Maybe the hanger was not correctly mounted?
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I was running an ltwoo 2x with a 52 front and I didnt have an issue. I will say that it was maxed at the top of the hanger but it worked.
Would you be able to share photos of the FD so I can see how it is mounted. Also do you know what frame size this was on? I am curious if this might be an issue with the smaller frames.
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Would you be able to share photos of the FD so I can see how it is mounted. Also do you know what frame size this was on? I am curious if this might be an issue with the smaller frames.
I'll look to see if I have any, I took the FD off recently as my ltwoo RD died so now on a mechanical 1x setup. I also added a washer to the FD mount to give clearance to the tire when in the small ring.
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I'll look to see if I have any, I took the FD off recently as my ltwoo RD died so now on a mechanical 1x setup. I also added a washer to the FD mount to give clearance to the tire when in the small ring.
Great thanks! what size frame was this on?
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Hi folks
Anyone using this as a pure road bike, as I'm quite liking the thoughts of a lot longer reach than I currently have.
Cheers!
I rode this as a pure road bike all week, did still run my 48mm gravel tyres and it works great as a road bike. Absolutely rails the corners on the downhills. I will probably put road wheels on it next week and see how i go. I live in Sydney and unfortunately for gravel rides you do mostly have to drive to them.
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Just order my frame, size XL with integrated bar. Quite tall (200cm) so had to discuss the sizing with my bike fiter. Compared to my roadbike it's quite a long and low frame, but with some extra spacers for the front that Chris kindly included we did the math and should be fine. Maybe not the most aestetic front but when you are literally several meters tall usually not how it goes anyway haha. Does anyone know if it's possible to leave some extra fork above the bar or it needs to be cut to size to be rideable?
I'm going to build it out with a 1x front and Eagle Transmission RD, paired with Rival shifters and calipers. Still deciding on chainring (probably alugear) and cassette (probably an ali one, yet to decide).
If I've done the math right for chainline a DUB wide crankset and DUB T47 BB should pair nicely. However, the sram DUB T47 BB is marked as 85.5mm wide, not 86,5. Does this still work?
Also, for future reference, according to Chris all frames are now supplied with 1.0 pitch rear axle by default.
Thanks a lot in advance,
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Just order my frame, size XL with integrated bar. Quite tall (200cm) so had to discuss the sizing with my bike fiter. Compared to my roadbike it's quite a long and low frame, but with some extra spacers for the front that Chris kindly included we did the math and should be fine. Maybe not the most aestetic front but when you are literally several meters tall usually not how it goes anyway haha. Does anyone know if it's possible to leave some extra fork above the bar or it needs to be cut to size to be rideable?
I'm going to build it out with a 1x front and Eagle Transmission RD, paired with Rival shifters and calipers. Still deciding on chainring (probably alugear) and cassette (probably an ali one, yet to decide).
If I've done the math right for chainline a DUB wide crankset and DUB T47 BB should pair nicely. However, the sram DUB T47 BB is marked as 85.5mm wide, not 86,5. Does this still work?
Also, for future reference, according to Chris all frames are now supplied with 1.0 pitch rear axle by default.
Thanks a lot in advance,
Yes the Sram dub t47 bb does work, i thought the same and was going to get the rotor one which specifies 85.5 and 86.5 but the local mechanic said it was not an issue.
I have the SRAM one fitted with the sram wide crankset and it works great.
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Just order my frame, size XL with integrated bar. Quite tall (200cm) so had to discuss the sizing with my bike fiter. Compared to my roadbike it's quite a long and low frame, but with some extra spacers for the front that Chris kindly included we did the math and should be fine. Maybe not the most aestetic front but when you are literally several meters tall usually not how it goes anyway haha. Does anyone know if it's possible to leave some extra fork above the bar or it needs to be cut to size to be rideable?
I'm going to build it out with a 1x front and Eagle Transmission RD, paired with Rival shifters and calipers. Still deciding on chainring (probably alugear) and cassette (probably an ali one, yet to decide).
If I've done the math right for chainline a DUB wide crankset and DUB T47 BB should pair nicely. However, the sram DUB T47 BB is marked as 85.5mm wide, not 86,5. Does this still work?
Also, for future reference, according to Chris all frames are now supplied with 1.0 pitch rear axle by default.
Thanks a lot in advance,
Fellow 200 cm tall man here. I used the three spacers that standard came with the frame, there was not much of the fork left to cut! I can measure when I get home - think I have the piece I cut off still laying around.
I'm no bike build expert, but as I see it you can't leave extra fork. At least not with the handlebar and spacers I got along with it.
What are you riding normally? I don't think it's low compared to what I've else tried. It's close to the same as my Merida Reacto and higher then the Giant TCR I had before.
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Got mine built up this weekend and did two "test rides" :D of ~65 km each. Was in a hurry, so didn't bleed the brakes, but that didn't matter much.
Mine is a size M with 110 mm stem. I left the smallest spacer underneath the stem. Built the bike with SRAM Rival XPLR E1, Senicx PR2 crankset, Elitewheels Aero Gravel wheels, Ullicyc handlebars and Ryet saddle. Thunder Burt 2.1" tires, Onirii silicone bar tape.
(https://i.postimg.cc/34CzbhgZ/IMG-5193.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/34CzbhgZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XGctDWw8/IMG-5196.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XGctDWw8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8JBxnGh4/IMG-5197.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8JBxnGh4)
Weight is ~8.2 kg with pedals, but possibly without bottle cages, can't quite remember ...
The ride is so good! I just want to send it literally all the time, so my legs were quite cooked sunday evening. The bike is very stable, and the big tires is like a cheat code on washboard gravel, yet surprisingly nimble and it turns like the above poster said, like it's on rails. E1 levers are really nice and the handlebar offered nice ergonomics.
Building went surprisingly well, given this was my first foray into building with hydraulic brakes and full internal routing. There were lots of overspray on the brake mounts, so I had to file them down quite a lot. I ordered both seatpost just in case, but I am using the zero setback one. The hole which the entire clamping assembly goes into is conical, bot not entirely clean, so everything did not come together cleanly the first five times I tried to adjust the saddle tilt or change saddle. I filed down some excess material and mounted the clamp with a thin layer of grease, and no problems after that.
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Fellow 200 cm tall man here. I used the three spacers that standard came with the frame, there was not much of the fork left to cut! I can measure when I get home - think I have the piece I cut off still laying around.
I'm no bike build expert, but as I see it you can't leave extra fork. At least not with the handlebar and spacers I got along with it.
What are you riding normally? I don't think it's low compared to what I've else tried. It's close to the same as my Merida Reacto and higher then the Giant TCR I had before.
That’s good to hear! My road bike is a BMC roadmachine, which is a bit taller and not as long. But of course no huge differences but it’s about 25mm lower in stack. But of course depending a bit on stem, handlebar etc too. I think it’ll be fine but probably not slammed stem haha.
Thanks a lot.
Yes the Sram dub t47 bb does work, i thought the same and was going to get the rotor one which specifies 85.5 and 86.5 but the local mechanic said it was not an issue.
I have the SRAM one fitted with the sram wide crankset and it works great.
Thanks for confirming, then I’ll put in the order for that!
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That’s good to hear! My road bike is a BMC roadmachine, which is a bit taller and not as long. But of course no huge differences but it’s about 25mm lower in stack. But of course depending a bit on stem, handlebar etc too. I think it’ll be fine but probably not slammed stem haha.
Thanks a lot.
Thanks for confirming, then I’ll put in the order for that!
I cut off 21 mm. I don’t know how many spacer you ordered, but that’s the max it can go beside the 3 standards :)
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I cut off 21 mm. I don’t know how many spacer you ordered, but that’s the max it can go beside the 3 standards :)
Should be more than enough! I think the standard kit is 15+10+5. I got an extra set but according to my calculations won’t need all. We'll see when I go to get it fited!
Thanks a lot.
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Got mine built up this weekend and did two "test rides" :D of ~65 km each. Was in a hurry, so didn't bleed the brakes, but that didn't matter much.
Mine is a size M with 110 mm stem. I left the smallest spacer underneath the stem. Built the bike with SRAM Rival XPLR E1, Senicx PR2 crankset, Elitewheels Aero Gravel wheels, Ullicyc handlebars and Ryet saddle. Thunder Burt 2.1" tires, Onirii silicone bar tape.
Weight is ~8.2 kg with pedals, but possibly without bottle cages, can't quite remember ...
What size chainring and are you getting any rubbing on your 2.1's. Mine seems to be blowing up a bit wide so was getting some rubbing
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What size chainring and are you getting any rubbing on your 2.1's. Mine seems to be blowing up a bit wide so was getting some rubbing
44t pass quest chainring. No rubbing, even on the ridiculously wide Elite aero gravel wheels, but clearance isn't great between the chainstays. I'm not too concerned if I some rubbing should occur from time to time, but I don't expect it as these wheels are very stiff laterally due to the large cross-section.
I only used the 1 mm spacer on the drive side of my Senicx crankset. There's a 3 mm spacer included, I might install that instead to improve the chainline slightly.
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The rear is really narrow re clearance. A 50mm tire blowing up to 52WAM is the full full maximum. You really can’t go any wider on the rear.
I doubt if Western brands could have sold this as ‘50mm clearance’ based on ISO standards. I believe the minimum required clearance under ISO is 6mm each side, which this frame certainly won’t have with 50 WAM tires.
Front is fine though.
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Got mine built up this weekend and did two "test rides" :D of ~65 km each. Was in a hurry, so didn't bleed the brakes, but that didn't matter much.
Mine is a size M with 110 mm stem. I left the smallest spacer underneath the stem. Built the bike with SRAM Rival XPLR E1, Senicx PR2 crankset, Elitewheels Aero Gravel wheels, Ullicyc handlebars and Ryet saddle. Thunder Burt 2.1" tires, Onirii silicone bar tape.
(https://i.postimg.cc/34CzbhgZ/IMG-5193.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/34CzbhgZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XGctDWw8/IMG-5196.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XGctDWw8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8JBxnGh4/IMG-5197.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8JBxnGh4)
Weight is ~8.2 kg with pedals, but possibly without bottle cages, can't quite remember ...
The ride is so good! I just want to send it literally all the time, so my legs were quite cooked sunday evening. The bike is very stable, and the big tires is like a cheat code on washboard gravel, yet surprisingly nimble and it turns like the above poster said, like it's on rails. E1 levers are really nice and the handlebar offered nice ergonomics.
Building went surprisingly well, given this was my first foray into building with hydraulic brakes and full internal routing. There were lots of overspray on the brake mounts, so I had to file them down quite a lot. I ordered both seatpost just in case, but I am using the zero setback one. The hole which the entire clamping assembly goes into is conical, bot not entirely clean, so everything did not come together cleanly the first five times I tried to adjust the saddle tilt or change saddle. I filed down some excess material and mounted the clamp with a thin layer of grease, and no problems after that.
Which Ullicyc bars are those? I was looking at a set with grooves on the underside to route cables. Are they stiff? Any worries on the interface with the stem due to the grooves? Thanks
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Which Ullicyc bars are those? I was looking at a set with grooves on the underside to route cables. Are they stiff? Any worries on the interface with the stem due to the grooves? Thanks
These are the Zipp SL 80 race clones, with groove on the underside. The whole front end of the bike feels nice and stiff, but I haven't tested it with other bars and these bars are actually a tad wider than what I'm used to (36 at the hoods), so it doesn't feel too stiff either.
No issues with routing hydraulic hoses, but I needed an extra set of hands for installing the bars. I'm on SRAM AXS, so no need to route anything more. Unsure whether that would've been problematic.
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These are the Zipp SL 80 race clones, with groove on the underside. The whole front end of the bike feels nice and stiff, but I haven't tested it with other bars and these bars are actually a tad wider than what I'm used to (36 at the hoods), so it doesn't feel too stiff either.
No issues with routing hydraulic hoses, but I needed an extra set of hands for installing the bars. I'm on SRAM AXS, so no need to route anything more. Unsure whether that would've been problematic.
What have you done with the di2 holes for the RD and FD? I havent done anything but feel i should.
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What have you done with the di2 holes for the RD and FD? I havent done anything but feel i should.
I haven't bothered to do anything about them, honestly. Hurried the build a bit when I had all the parts to get in some riding before riding conditions become to wet and cold ...
I did however order a bunch of black nylon bolts for all of the mounting points that I'm not using, as the stock silver ones makes the bike look kind of cheap.
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I haven't bothered to do anything about them, honestly. Hurried the build a bit when I had all the parts to get in some riding before riding conditions become to wet and cold ...
I did however order a bunch of black nylon bolts for all of the mounting points that I'm not using, as the stock silver ones makes the bike look kind of cheap.
Yeah i thought the stock silver ones looked cheap too, i have replaced them with Ti Oil slick.
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how much torque do you have on the top cap(headset preload) bolt? I had to crank it up quite a bit just to get rid of the play while rocking the bike back and forth but i can still feel some play under heavy braking.
The original compression ring is aluminum, very thick and probably requires a lot of force to compress. I feel like at this point the torque is already beyond of what I would consider acceptable.
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how much torque do you have on the top cap(headset preload) bolt? I had to crank it up quite a bit just to get rid of the play while rocking the bike back and forth but i can still feel some play under heavy braking.
The original compression ring is aluminum, very thick and probably requires a lot of force to compress. I feel like at this point the torque is already beyond of what I would consider acceptable.
I found difficult to put on place bearings when assembling the headset, like the housing was too tight. It could be the same on your case, that bearings are not well placed.
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how much torque do you have on the top cap(headset preload) bolt? I had to crank it up quite a bit just to get rid of the play while rocking the bike back and forth but i can still feel some play under heavy braking.
The original compression ring is aluminum, very thick and probably requires a lot of force to compress. I feel like at this point the torque is already beyond of what I would consider acceptable.
The c ring is not a tight fit on the steerer tube. I couldnt get headset preloaded until after I wrapped the steerer with aluminum foil
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The c ring is not a tight fit on the steerer tube. I couldn't get headset preloaded until after I wrapped the steerer with aluminum foil
I think my top cap is bottoming out. A combination of a headset compressing and a shitty expander plug pulling out of the steering tube sligtly results in some preload but not enough. I added a spacer and will see if it helps.
on a different note, after some 400km on this frame I have some initial impressions.
I think the frame is solid but it's not ideal for the riding I do and it mostly comes to two things: tire clearance and a seatpost design.
The frame can barely fit 50mm tires and I actually had to shim the derailleur hanger to mount the wheels as my conti hardpack 50c just would not fit. And that's a semi slick tire with no knobs in the center so fitting any kind of an XC tire is out of the question.
Now the seatpost. I like how it looks but that's where the positives end. It's has a deep-ish aero shape which in my experience results in quite a punishing ride feel and since you can't really go crazy with a tire size there's no way to remedy it without dropping the pressure lower than I would have liked.
For context I ride a lot of rocky gravel and singletrack with roots. I switched from the lightcarbon lcg-071 and I admittedly regret it a little.
It would probably work best as an all-road rather than a pure gravel bike
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yeah, seat post is stiff, and it lets you feel everything
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Hi Everyone,
I'm new to the forum.
I registered mainly to read this thread because I'm thinking about buying this frame. Does anyone know if Velobuild is doing any Black Friday discounts?
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Hi Everyone,
I'm new to the forum.
I registered mainly to read this thread because I'm thinking about buying this frame. Does anyone know if Velobuild is doing any Black Friday discounts?
Hi I am also new, and also in the proces of ordering the AeroGrav as my road/gravel bike. I asked them via whatsapp and they told me they were not planning any black friday discounts because they just did a promotion last month.
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My setup is also almost complete. Everything went surprisingly smoothly and without any problems.
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Hi, This is my third Velobuild and I am having some issues with the handlebar for the first time. I can't remove some side to side play. It only happens to the right side and only when I stand up on the pedals pushing hard. Stem bolts tighten to 7nm and cap bolt by feel.
Are the top and bottom headset bearings identical and interchangeable? Or each one must be in its right place?
The hidraulic brakes cables are a little bit too tense pushing the C shape spacer to the right side. Could it be the reason?
THanks!
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Hi, This is my third Velobuild and I am having some issues with the handlebar for the first time. I can't remove some side to side play. It only happens to the right side and only when I stand up on the pedals pushing hard. Stem bolts tighten to 7nm and cap bolt by feel.
Are the top and bottom headset bearings identical and interchangeable? Or each one must be in its right place?
The hidraulic brakes cables are a little bit too tense pushing the C shape spacer to the right side. Could it be the reason?
THanks!
bearings are the same top and bottom. I dont think the cables could do it. Double check if headset is well compressed, especially if bearings are well on their place.
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...more from my site:
I bought another AERO GRAV frame for my girlfriend with a custom paint job.
VB shipped the frame without sending me a picture beforehand. I chose a paint job from a factor vam and they made a clownish paint job, which you can find in the VB-gallery (blue/purple/orange).
They say it looks the same... After countless mails back and forth they won't admit that the paint job is not slightly how it should be.
I know it is a cheap paint job and you can't expect too much from it. But VB shows again that the customers opinion more or less does not matter.
Please be careful with custom paint jobs and be sure to get a picture of the frame before it is shipped!
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...more from my site:
I bought another AERO GRAV frame for my girlfriend with a custom paint job.
VB shipped the frame without sending me a picture beforehand. I chose a paint job from a factor vam and they made a clownish paint job, which you can find in the VB-gallery (blue/purple/orange).
They say it looks the same... After countless mails back and forth they won't admit that the paint job is not slightly how it should be.
I know it is a cheap paint job and you can't expect too much from it. But VB shows again that the customers opinion more or less does not matter.
Please be careful with custom paint jobs and be sure to get a picture of the frame before it is shipped!
That honestly looks ok to me.
I asked for a simple matte beige/ sand color and velobuild gave me the worst paint job Ive ever seen. Looks much more pale yellow/piss color in person. I painted over it already and did an ok job.
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...more from my site:
I bought another AERO GRAV frame for my girlfriend with a custom paint job.
VB shipped the frame without sending me a picture beforehand. I chose a paint job from a factor vam and they made a clownish paint job, which you can find in the VB-gallery (blue/purple/orange).
They say it looks the same... After countless mails back and forth they won't admit that the paint job is not slightly how it should be.
I know it is a cheap paint job and you can't expect too much from it. But VB shows again that the customers opinion more or less does not matter.
Please be careful with custom paint jobs and be sure to get a picture of the frame before it is shipped!
Did you communicate colors code to velobuild? after first mock up I communicate them the pantone of the color and color painted was as expected
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Did you communicate colors code to velobuild? after first mock up I communicate them the pantone of the color and color painted was as expected
I did. I chose a dark purple for the top tube. They painted it blue instead.
Last time Velobuild for me!
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I did. I chose a dark purple for the top tube. They painted it blue instead.
Last time Velobuild for me!
don't expect to pay minimum $ and get premium on everything.
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don't expect to pay minimum $ and get premium on everything.
Did you read my post before? I said, that I know what I paid and what I can expect. The use case of the forum is to share experiences. Well I had bad experiences and I shared them. Do what you want to do with this information.
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Did you read my post before? I said, that I know what I paid and what I can expect. The use case of the forum is to share experiences. Well I had bad experiences and I shared them. Do what you want to do with this information.
They did much better than anyone should reasonable expect. Props to velobuild for that paint job. Meanwhile I had a much more simple request and I got fucked by velobuild
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That honestly looks ok to me.
I asked for a simple matte beige/ sand color and velobuild gave me the worst paint job Ive ever seen. Looks much more pale yellow/piss color in person. I painted over it already and did an ok job.
Did you give them a RAL number?
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Did you give them a RAL number?
No i just emailed photos of what Id like and they said we can do that. I really wasnt too concerned because its really a common color, especially for gravel bikes. But yeah velobuild managed to fuck it up
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They did much better than anyone should reasonable expect. Props to velobuild for that paint job. Meanwhile I had a much more simple request and I got fucked by velobuild
You can buy the frame if you are so in love with that paint job :D
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You can buy the frame if you are so in love with that paint job :D
I like your idea and also the result, I would have taken it. I am a bit sad I bought black matte :(, but I wasn't creative enough for a paintjob.
However, my frameset arrived tuesday without seatpost cover and clamp. So I have to wait a few more days, at least VB shipped the missing parts fast, arrival is expected for monday in Germany.
The frameset looks pretty good, all threads are okay and my overall Impression ist quite positive.
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Do I have to use spacers when installing a sram dub wide rival crankset on this frame with a t47 dub road wide Bottom Bracket (00.6418.033.001)
Because i have very much Play / the axis seems to be to long
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There's a diagram that tells you the spacers you need on srams website, or maybe instructions with BB you got.
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Do I have to use spacers when installing a sram dub wide rival crankset on this frame with a t47 dub road wide Bottom Bracket (00.6418.033.001)
Because i have very much Play / the axis seems to be to long
yes you do.
https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/dub-choose-a-road-bottom-bracket-compatibility-map.pdf
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5,5 drive and 2,5 non drive
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Just wanted to post this for anyone trying to run a 2x setup with road gearing here. On the size S frame and possibly other size frames, the hanger is not tall enough to fit a 50t front chain-ring (not sure what the limit is probably around 46t).
To fix this I found this odd part which actually works great, it moves the FD back a few mm, but it doesn't affect shifting. Chris said he would send me a new hanger but I haven't heard back from him for a while, so not sure. Hopefully they can start shipping FD hangers with the frames that work but this is a fine solution in the meantime.
https://www.amazon.com/Derailleur-Extender-Stainless-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B0F9L5Y4S5?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80745585345485&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint&hvlocphy=111396&hvtargid=pla-4584345054179710&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Derailleur-Extender-Stainless-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B0F9L5Y4S5?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80745585345485&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint&hvlocphy=111396&hvtargid=pla-4584345054179710&psc=1)
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Just wanted to post this for anyone trying to run a 2x setup with road gearing here. On the size S frame and possibly other size frames, the hanger is not tall enough to fit a 50t front chain-ring (not sure what the limit is probably around 46t).
To fix this I found this odd part which actually works great, it moves the FD back a few mm, but it doesn't affect shifting. Chris said he would send me a new hanger but I haven't heard back from him for a while, so not sure. Hopefully they can start shipping FD hangers with the frames that work but this is a fine solution in the meantime.
https://www.amazon.com/Derailleur-Extender-Stainless-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B0F9L5Y4S5?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80745585345485&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint&hvlocphy=111396&hvtargid=pla-4584345054179710&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Derailleur-Extender-Stainless-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B0F9L5Y4S5?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80745585345485&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint&hvlocphy=111396&hvtargid=pla-4584345054179710&psc=1)
Planning to run the same.are you using standard shimano road crankset?
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Would be also interesting a 105 Di2 roadie groupset with a 36/53t setup. The description of the frame says up to 53T when running a double crank set.
"44T Single Crank Set ,53T Double Crank Set"
https://www.velobuild.com/products/2025-velobuild-carbon-fiber-racing-gravel-bike-frame
So I wonder if 53 is too large though!?
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Finally finished my first build with this frame this week.
Thanks to everyone helping me out with my questions. Learned a lot, had to buy a lot of tools during the process and am happy that i was able to finish it.
Still a bit unsure about the big gaps i have at the fork/headset.
Parts:
- Velobuild Aero Gravel (S) in glossy Black
- 9Velo GV wheelset
- Sram Rival Dub Wide Crankset 165mm
- Sram rival brakes
- Sram Force XPLR RD
- Passquest Aero Chainring 44t
- Goldix 10-44 Cassette
- Schwalbe G one R Pro in 50mm
- Ridenow Gravel TPU Tubes (wasnt able to do the tubeless setup without a booster yet)
- Ryet SPD Pedals
- Ryet Saddle
- aliexpress titanium bottle cages
I did experience the same issues as others with the seat clamp and i was a bit underwhelmed by the comfort...it feels harsher than my old cube nuroad AL with 40mm tires and an elita one seatpost. But i thin it will be a good winter bike :)
Thanks to everyone here answering questions
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Planning to run the same.are you using standard shimano road crankset?
Was a bit nervous because of this and tested it. 105 R7000 Crankset 50-34 with a 105 front derailleur can be mounted without problems (Size S Frame).
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Do you think a 53T will also work?
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I'm trying the new winter setup
Rocket ron 29x2.1... these tires have a more rounded profile.. the clearance seems better than the Thunder Burt 29x2.1
Current weight 7,840 kg.. not bad :D
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Do you think a 53T will also work?
I don't think so. Here is the maximal height for the Front derailleur in comparision to the 50T chainring:
As you can see, the space is quite limited.
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I don't think so. Here is the maximal height for the Front derailleur in comparision to the 50T chainring:
As you can see, the space is quite limited.
Thanks for your inout.
How is it looking clearance wise with the tire?
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thoughts on tires..
I didn't expect the Thunder Burts (and even the Rocket Rons) to be so fast.
Especially considering they weigh about 600g vs. about 300g for the 38mm gravelking.
Pressures are about 1.6 bar front - 2.0 bar rear for the 29" and 2.4 -2.8 for the 38mm.
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Planning to run the same.are you using standard shimano road crankset?
Yeah running a 105 50/34 crankset on this one.
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Hi guys, looking at the frame right know.
Can you let me know the max tire width possible for a 2x setup and the max tire width possible for a 1x setup?
thanks :)
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Hi guys, looking at the frame right know.
Can you let me know the max tire width possible for a 2x setup and the max tire width possible for a 1x setup?
thanks :)
Probably already has been answered in previous posts. I run 2x and plenty of room with Thundero 48mm.
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Hi guys, looking at the frame right know.
Can you let me know the max tire width possible for a 2x setup and the max tire width possible for a 1x setup?
thanks :)
For a 1x setup, there's room for most 29x2.1 tires, which are about 50/51mm but with more volume.
I used Rocket Ron and Thunder Burt. I also tried Sworks Renegade 29x2.1, but they didn't fit (they're about 5mm taller than Schwalbe).
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Hi guys,
I am designing a clamp to attach aerobars to my VElobuild integrated handlebar (380 width x 100mm "stem"). Something like this https://cults3d.com/es/modelo-3d/variado/3-additional-custom-versions-of-the-cp0018-tt-mount
Do anybody have acces to a 3d scanner to scan your velobuild integrated handlebars? I dont have access and having an accurate handlebar scan would make things easier and more accurate, I would design the base clamp and share the model for free.
Thanks!
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Hi guys,
I bought this frame with the flared version of velobuilds integrated handlebar and stem (100mm stem).
I'm in the process of building the bike. This is my first bike build with hydraulic brakes and integrated cable routing in the headset. So I am a bit of a noob.
I am a bit nervous about the transition of the brake hoses from the spacers to the stem. It is a very small turning radius and there is a sharp 90 degrees edge on the top spacer, which I fear will cut into cable over time.
Of course the cable will not move much relative to the spacer, but I still fear that it over time will wear into the cable.
Have any of you had similar issues/worries? And do anyone have suggestion for what to do? Or am I just making up an issue that does not exist?
Thanks!
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Hi,i buy the velobuild Aero gravel frame but i dont know what bottom bracket buy for these frame and crankset force e1wide...
I want try this bottom bracket,its correct?
Thanks
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Hi,i buy the velobuild Aero gravel frame but i dont know what bottom bracket buy for these frame and crankset force e1wide...
I want try this bottom bracket,its correct?
Thanks
Yes, but the spacers are not. You need 2,5 and 5,5 millimetres. I returned my ali bb and ordered an original sram one because with the spacers you need to buy it was almost the same price.
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The KACTUS T47 BB is a great choice.
If you need extra spacers, you can also get them on aliexpress: https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005265450858.html (DUB is 29mm)
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The KACTUS T47 BB is a great choice.
If you need extra spacers, you can also get them on aliexpress: https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005265450858.html (DUB is 29mm)
Yes I saw that but with the minimal amount of 10 euro’s for free shipping or the extra shipping costs it was almost the same price to buy the sram one for 39,99.
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The KACTUS T47 BB is a great choice.
If you need extra spacers, you can also get them on aliexpress: https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005265450858.html (DUB is 29mm)
i buy crankset force e1 powermeter and the box includes spacer 2,5 and 5mm
thankssss
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Hi guys,
I am designing a clamp to attach aerobars to my VElobuild integrated handlebar (380 width x 100mm "stem"). Something like this https://cults3d.com/es/modelo-3d/variado/3-additional-custom-versions-of-the-cp0018-tt-mount
Do anybody have acces to a 3d scanner to scan your velobuild integrated handlebars? I dont have access and having an accurate handlebar scan would make things easier and more accurate, I would design the base clamp and share the model for free.
Thanks!
I don't have access to one unfortunately, but if you're able toshare when you're done that'd be really helpful!
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Finally on what will be the long term build, minues getting some other rims to run some smaller tires:
Frame: Size Medium glossy
Drive train: LTWOO ER7 group; 52-36 & 11 spd 11-34; dura-ace chain
Wheelset: ICAN Aero 50 (the narrow IW helps squeeze the rubber inside the chain-stays'
Tires: front - Vittoria Barzo 2.25; rear - Vittoria Mezcal 2.1
Saddle: Bontrager Aeolus comp 143mm
Pedals: 105
Weight without lights and comp, but with top tube bag is 21 lbs. Little heavier than I expected but that's okay, it keeps speed well and is still more comfortable than my alloy CAADX I came from. I also have spaced the FD out with some washers and longer bolts from Lowes. Will be swapping to ETX when it finally releases. The new hood shape of the LTWOO is amazing, way more comfortable that the prior ones.
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Finally on what will be the long term build, minues getting some other rims to run some smaller tires:
Frame: Size Medium glossy
Drive train: LTWOO ER7 group; 52-36 & 11 spd 11-34; dura-ace chain
Wheelset: ICAN Aero 50 (the narrow IW helps squeeze the rubber inside the chain-stays'
Tires: front - Vittoria Barzo 2.25; rear - Vittoria Mezcal 2.1
Saddle: Bontrager Aeolus comp 143mm
Pedals: 105
Weight without lights and comp, but with top tube bag is 21 lbs. Little heavier than I expected but that's okay, it keeps speed well and is still more comfortable than my alloy CAADX I came from. I also have spaced the FD out with some washers and longer bolts from Lowes. Will be swapping to ETX when it finally releases. The new hood shape of the LTWOO is amazing, way more comfortable that the prior ones.
Nice, how do you like the tires?
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Nice, how do you like the tires?
Decently supple, vs my racekings and schwalbe's (racing ralph and ray) i'd put them about in the middle. They endure the roads out her well and absorb a good bit of the ruts and glass on the road.
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Decently supple, vs my racekings and schwalbe's (racing ralph and ray) i'd put them about in the middle. They endure the roads out her well and absorb a good bit of the ruts and glass on the road.
It’s good to know these tires fit. I received my frame yesterday can’t wait to build it up! Still waiting on a few parts, the integrated stem I ordered didn’t fit so I had to order another one. Will take a few days to be delivered from ali.
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looks nice, which handlebar is this one?
Finally on what will be the long term build, minues getting some other rims to run some smaller tires:
Frame: Size Medium glossy
Drive train: LTWOO ER7 group; 52-36 & 11 spd 11-34; dura-ace chain
Wheelset: ICAN Aero 50 (the narrow IW helps squeeze the rubber inside the chain-stays'
Tires: front - Vittoria Barzo 2.25; rear - Vittoria Mezcal 2.1
Saddle: Bontrager Aeolus comp 143mm
Pedals: 105
Weight without lights and comp, but with top tube bag is 21 lbs. Little heavier than I expected but that's okay, it keeps speed well and is still more comfortable than my alloy CAADX I came from. I also have spaced the FD out with some washers and longer bolts from Lowes. Will be swapping to ETX when it finally releases. The new hood shape of the LTWOO is amazing, way more comfortable that the prior ones.
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looks nice, which handlebar is this one?
I would also be interested in what kind of handlebar it is. If it‘s the stock one, it has really a lot of reach! Looks like it would add 1-2 cm of stem length 😮
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Those look like the stock HB-011 handlebars to me. These are the ones that came with my AeroGrav (same but flared).
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It’s good to know these tires fit. I received my frame yesterday can’t wait to build it up! Still waiting on a few parts, the integrated stem I ordered didn’t fit so I had to order another one. Will take a few days to be delivered from ali.
Fair warning that they are blowing up about 3mm smaller than the stated and I trimmed down the side knobs on the mezcal in the rear, it was rubbing a bit since the wheel isnt the stiffest and Im a hefty boy.
Those look like the stock HB-011 handlebars to me. These are the ones that came with my AeroGrav (same but flared).
correcto, but honestly I like the look of your flared way more. Do you have more photos and thats the difference top vs drops?
I would also be interested in what kind of handlebar it is. If it‘s the stock one, it has really a lot of reach! Looks like it would add 1-2 cm of stem length 😮
Handlebar is the velobuild HB-011 (got mine before they offered the flared version) that they put on the 268, aerograv and the new 368 option. I don't love the way it flares to the reach and how chunky they feel but they are stiff and routing was incredibly easy, by far easiest of any integrated bars/internal routing. Stem is 90mm.
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Any mud guard/fender recommendations that fits well on the bike?
Bonus point if they are cheap ones from AliX ;)
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I'm finally almost done with my build, but of course after connecting and bleeding the brakes, I'm realizing there's a decent bit of play with the headset. This isn't my first rodeo - mechanic of several years - but I just can't seem to track down the issue. I'm using the integrated bar and stem, the headset that came with, etc. It's a small bit and mostly lateral. Anyone had any issues with this and/or been able to resolve?
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I'm finally almost done with my build, but of course after connecting and bleeding the brakes, I'm realizing there's a decent bit of play with the headset. This isn't my first rodeo - mechanic of several years - but I just can't seem to track down the issue. I'm using the integrated bar and stem, the headset that came with, etc. It's a small bit and mostly lateral. Anyone had any issues with this and/or been able to resolve?
I have play in the headset that keeps coming back. I think it might be due to thick aluminum compression being too stiff and it requires a lot of force to preload
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I'm finally almost done with my build, but of course after connecting and bleeding the brakes, I'm realizing there's a decent bit of play with the headset. This isn't my first rodeo - mechanic of several years - but I just can't seem to track down the issue. I'm using the integrated bar and stem, the headset that came with, etc. It's a small bit and mostly lateral. Anyone had any issues with this and/or been able to resolve?
Getting some creaking from mine, its overall compressed but I can feel it moving ever so slightly when I really torque it. No solution as of yet.
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I'm really enjoying the Rocket Rons, they're a little noisier and slower.. but great traction and confidence on loose terrain.
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Getting some creaking from mine, its overall compressed but I can feel it moving ever so slightly when I really torque it. No solution as of yet.
I had same issue. I think issue is that the expander plug slips and lifts when torquing the top cap. I grease the bolt of the expander and torqued and made sure the expander didnt create a gap with the top of steerer and it seems to help. I also tryed a 0.25 mm shim which seems to help also but kept displacing.
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Almost finished with my build, just need to bleed the brakes and put on some bartape. I have ordered the Elitewheels Aero+ Gravel so I hope they arrive soon they are supposed to be lighter than the SLR gravel I have on now.
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I've never really been a fan of electronic gears, but trying to fit cables through the integreret handelbars makes me want to switch over!
One side is smooth and fine. The other side seems really rough and impossible to fit trough..
Please tell me I'm not the only one..
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I built mine using an older Ultegra 1x11 mechanical shifting setup. The only issue I encountered was with the front derailleur cable. I had to file down the frame slightly for a better fit. The rest of the cabling went flawlessly. The handlebar was a bit fiddly, but with the help of a special routing tool, it was manageable. Shifting performance is quite good, and I didn’t notice any difference compared to non-integrated cable routing.
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I built mine using an older Ultegra 1x11 mechanical shifting setup. The only issue I encountered was with the front derailleur cable. I had to file down the frame slightly for a better fit. The rest of the cabling went flawlessly. The handlebar was a bit fiddly, but with the help of a special routing tool, it was manageable. Shifting performance is quite good, and I didn’t notice any difference compared to non-integrated cable routing.
Everything inside the frame has gone very smooth. No problem there for me.
Even with routing tool in the handlebar, the one side is close to impossible. It's out now from hours of back and forward.. The other side took max 10 min.
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hi
Any ideas for screws on AliExpress to replace the ones on the frame? Thanks
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hi
Any ideas for screws on AliExpress to replace the ones on the frame? Thanks
I got these ones in black (10 mm). They seem to be decent quality and holding up fine so far. I think I need 3-4 more to replace all the bolts on the frame, so I kept the original ones to secure the bottle cages.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008323775287.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.27.71c91802bTCoQw
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I bought some plain black flat headed M5x12 that I somehow thought would be nylon ... but turned out to be stainless steel. Not very light, but being black and low profile made them blend in very nicely to the frame. Not even sure if I will bother to try to source nylon bolts again.
Waynifa bolts are also a solid choice, but a bit overkill just for blinding off unused screw holes IMHO.
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This is the correct form to install spacer headset?
I belive install correct but have to much "spacer"between spacer
Any idea?
Sorry for my english
Tahanksss
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This is the correct form to install spacer headset?
I belive install correct but have to much "spacer"between spacer
Any idea?
Sorry for my english
Tahanksss
Is this the velobuild cockpit? On mine spacers look different. Spacers and a top cap look like they are not seated correctly.
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Everything inside the frame has gone very smooth. No problem there for me.
Even with routing tool in the handlebar, the one side is close to impossible. It's out now from hours of back and forward.. The other side took max 10 min.
I'm never doing integrated bars again.
I really love this frame though. I have a steel gravel bike and hate how it rides. How is the ride quality on these? I will be on 42c tires.
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I'm never doing integrated bars again.
I really love this frame though. I have a steel gravel bike and hate how it rides. How is the ride quality on these? I will be on 42c tires.
I'm with you on this! But again - one side was so easy. The other side was just pure shit.
I can't tell you yet. I'm a slow builder. First project and I'm not in a rush. Hoping to get it done by this week.
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Hi built up my bike yesterday but ran into some issues with the headset preload.
For context: I am using this headset: https://r2-bike.com/FSA-Steuersatz-NO69-56-SRS-Middle-IS52-286-IS52-40
When i try to get play out of the fork, i have to tighten down the ahead cap so hard that i can not steer any more. And also it seems like I have literally zero gap between frame and fork in the bottom. can anatone share pics how it looks for them using tghe oroginal headset bearngs and fork crown ring
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Hi built up my bike yesterday but ran into some issues with the headset preload.
For context: I am using this headset: https://r2-bike.com/FSA-Steuersatz-NO69-56-SRS-Middle-IS52-286-IS52-40
When i try to get play out of the fork, i have to tighten down the ahead cap so hard that i can not steer any more. And also it seems like I have literally zero gap between frame and fork in the bottom. can anatone share pics how it looks for them using tghe oroginal headset bearngs and fork crown ring
Hi, the lower gap on mine is actually quite large — I used the original headset set from Velobuild (see attachment).
I did have problems with the upper bearing though. There was no gap at all, and the top cover was rubbing against the frame. Velobuild offered to send me a replacement bearing (a taller one). For the time being, I solved the issue by adding a 1 mm thin washer on top of the C-ring.
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Hi, the lower gap on mine is actually quite large — I used the original headset set from Velobuild (see attachment).
I did have problems with the upper bearing though. There was no gap at all, and the top cover was rubbing against the frame. Velobuild offered to send me a replacement bearing (a taller one). For the time being, I solved the issue by adding a 1 mm thin washer on top of the C-ring.
do you have a picture of the washer by any chance? was it included or did you buy it separately?
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do you have a picture of the washer by any chance? was it included or did you buy it separately?
I bought it from the local store. It is something similar to this one, but thicker:
https://www.performancebike.com/cane-creek-11-8-shim-spacers-silver-0.25mm-10-pack-hss2050/p1277063?v=402851
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Hi built up my bike yesterday but ran into some issues with the headset preload.
For context: I am using this headset: https://r2-bike.com/FSA-Steuersatz-NO69-56-SRS-Middle-IS52-286-IS52-40
When i try to get play out of the fork, i have to tighten down the ahead cap so hard that i can not steer any more. And also it seems like I have literally zero gap between frame and fork in the bottom. can anatone share pics how it looks for them using tghe oroginal headset bearngs and fork crown ring
did you install the crown race?
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Hi, the lower gap on mine is actually quite large — I used the original headset set from Velobuild (see attachment).
It seems you put the bearing upside down or just installed the fork crown (don't needed).
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did you install the crown race?
yes i did. took it apart again yesterday and used the original crown race plus lower beraring provided by velobuild.
That sorted out the problem!
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Finally done and out for my first ride on it today.
I’m very positive! I’ve made it a budget build. So it’s more of a winter/bad weather bike for me, than a gravel. So only 35 mm tires.
Total price of just under 1300€/1420$.
I will try to do some videos the following days on instagram (if not allowed to post please let me know!): https://www.instagram.com/dadvibescycling
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Finally done and out for my first ride on it today.
I’m very positive! I’ve made it a budget build. So it’s more of a winter/bad weather bike for me, than a gravel. So only 35 mm tires.
Total price of just under 1300€/1420$.
I will try to do some videos the following days on instagram (if not allowed to post please let me know!): https://www.instagram.com/dadvibescycling
first of all a really nice looking bad weather bike!
but was 1300€ from a blank piece of paper to a complete bike? ??? seems a little on the opitimistic side or did you have some spare parts lying around? or was it some second hand shopping.
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first of all a really nice looking bad weather bike!
but was 1300€ from a blank piece of paper to a complete bike? ??? seems a little on the opitimistic side or did you have some spare parts lying around? or was it some second hand shopping.
I had tools and pedals, else the rest was 1300€. The only thing I got second hand was the Ultegra crank with an 4iiii left arm power meter. I found it for 120€. Else I picked cheap Arisun tires, cheap Bucklos handlebar tape and so on. Even the saddle was only 10€ from AliX.
I’ve a spreadsheet with everything. So I know it was 1300€ :)
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right tires for a muddy day :D
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I had tools and pedals, else the rest was 1300€. The only thing I got second hand was the Ultegra crank with an 4iiii left arm power meter. I found it for 120€. Else I picked cheap Arisun tires, cheap Bucklos handlebar tape and so on. Even the saddle was only 10€ from AliX.
I’ve a spreadsheet with everything. So I know it was 1300€ :)
Ah, thats where that Power meter went then, had that on my watchlist :D
Sick looking bike and below 1300€ is incredible. Koudos.
I have my frame ordered and some parts already lying around, will be a first time build, so fingers crossed.
I want to build it up 1x12 with the GRX 827Di2 and a 44t chainring, so I can easily swap in my road tires between the seasons.
Im more in it for the building experience than anything else.
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Ah, thats where that Power meter went then, had that on my watchlist :D
Sick looking bike and below 1300€ is incredible. Koudos.
I have my frame ordered and some parts already lying around, will be a first time build, so fingers crossed.
I want to build it up 1x12 with the GRX 827Di2 and a 44t chainring, so I can easily swap in my road tires between the seasons.
Im more in it for the building experience than anything else.
Yeah, sorry - I could not resist the price ;) Actually just got lucky. It looked like he was selling the crank only but when I opened the add it was with powermeter also. Don't think many noticed before me.
Thank you.
Also my first build! One of the reasons I went for a budget build was also to learn. The Di2 will help you a lot - the only real problem I had was with the cables through the handlebar. So hopefully it goes smoothly for you!
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Finished this build a few weeks ago and I’ve been riding it a lot since.
Components:
• Size XL (I’m 200 cm with very long legs, haha)
• 90×400 integrated cockpit with flair (from VB)
• SRAM Rival cranks, shifters, and brakes
• Alugear 44t chainring
• SRAM DUB BB
• GX Eagle Transmission rear derailleur
• GX Eagle Transmission 10–52 cassette
• GX Eagle Transmission chain
• Light Bicycle WG55 wheels
• Galfer Wave rotors
• Vittoria Terreno 45 mm tubeless
That’s basically it. I do have a full spreadsheet with every little bit and bolt if anyone wants it. Total cost came in just under 3000 €, which still feels kind of insane. I got lucky with some second-hand parts and Black Friday deals.
The ordering process was super smooth. I had a few questions that were answered quickly, and when I asked to buy extra spacers they were included free of charge — a small but very appreciated gesture from Chris. I also ordered the flared cockpit (available if you email them) and an extra seatpost with setback.
The frame arrived in about 2 weeks and was very well packed. The paint job is more than fine. I was a bit worried because of earlier comments, but either they’ve improved it or my standards are low ;D . Either way, it looks great, has a nice sparkle, and seems to be holding up well.
The build itself was mostly very smooth. The only real annoyance was the tolerances on the cockpit spacers. The largest ones (15 mm, I think) had a tiny mismatch, which made mounting them extremely fiddly. If you were even slightly off, they’d snap out of place and end up on the floor. It took four hands and a good 20 minutes to get them on. On the plus side, they definitely aren’t going anywhere now. Personally, I prefer plastic spacers with a bit more leeway and compression than aluminum.
Other than that, I’m very impressed.
The bike rides extremely well. I’ve ridden rocky Spanish gravel, singletrack, sand, asphalt, and now wintery Scandinavia, and it handles everything confidently. It is on the stiff side and not the most “comfortable” if that’s what you’re after. I actually like feeling the ride, but I can see how that could be a downside for some.
Planning to do quite a few gravel races next year, so I’m looking forward to putting many more kilometers on it.
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Hi,
Quick question: I'm about to get the frame and I have all the components ready to build it. The thing is, I’ve been re-reading the messages in this thread today and now I'm getting cold feet. I’m planning to run a Rival 2x12 groupset with a 46/33 and 10-33 setup, using non-wide cranks and a 'standard' front derailleur. Do you think I'll run into any issues? I'm planning to use 40mm tires.
I'm specially worried about the front derailleur and if it will have enough space between the tyre.
Thanks
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Hi,
Quick question: I'm about to get the frame and I have all the components ready to build it. The thing is, I’ve been re-reading the messages in this thread today and now I'm getting cold feet. I’m planning to run a Rival 2x12 groupset with a 46/33 and 10-33 setup, using non-wide cranks and a 'standard' front derailleur. Do you think I'll run into any issues? I'm planning to use 40mm tires.
I'm specially worried about the front derailleur and if it will have enough space between the tyre.
Thanks
I think you'll be fine with the 40's, not sure any larger since that battery sticks out pretty far. I spaced my FD out 4mm or so with shims to run a 2.1 but Im on ltwoo so the footprint is smaller than your sram one.
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Hi,
I'm considering the Velobuild AERO GRAV to ride some gravel sportives in the UK in 2026.
I'm trying to keep costs down and have some 650b wheels with Racing Ralph 2.1 tyres. It looks like some of you are fttinh 2.0+ on 700c wheels so am I safe in assuming these wheels / tyres will fit and no look too "gappy". I think the diameter will be equivalent to a 700 x 35....do you think a 27.5 x 2.25 would fit too?
Thanks
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I'm trying to keep costs down and have some 650b wheels with Racing Ralph 2.1 tyres. It looks like some of you are fttinh 2.0+ on 700c wheels so am I safe in assuming these wheels / tyres will fit and no look too "gappy". I think the diameter will be equivalent to a 700 x 35....do you think a 27.5 x 2.25 would fit too?
I would think yes, (all 700c), my rear is measuring 53mm and I have maybe a mil of clearance both sides, front is a 2.25 and 2mm clearance both sides and prob 3mm to top of the fork.
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At Euro folks: How much was shipping for you?
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At Euro folks: How much was shipping for you?
I buyed mine at aliexpress last BF.
416€ everything in black glossy and with the gravel handlebar.
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At Euro folks: How much was shipping for you?
I paid 140 usd with xdb shipping. Shipping was really fast though, only 9 days
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Here’s my build of the gravel frame. Took longer and cost more to build due to the headset play - fix below! - and a good few mistakes I made along the way. My first build so lots of learning on the job
I transferd the groupset from a Boardman road bike and got the kids/wife to doodle on it with some acrylic paint markers so looks a little different…
Headset play was a right pain in the hole - I’d thought it was fixed but it loosened on first ride so all taken apart again. Then new brake lines needed as I’d no slack in the cables left. I ditched the expansion plug that came supplied - If your going to build this frame I would suggest spending some extra money on a better compression ring and expansion plug. Supplied parts just didn’t workout for me.
Build:
Rival D1 AXS with single side power meter
Force E1 10-36 cassette
Ultrabite 45mm rear & 50mm front
Wheels - Alexrim aluminium (19mm internal. Tires as measuring 43mm and 48mm)
Hope headset bearings (supplied probably fine but I couldn’t take any more hassle so just replaced everything headset related)
Ali express for Saddle/BB/discs/bar tape/TPU tubes/computer mount)
Heat set play fix:
FSA Compressor headset for 1-1/8" carbon fork steerer
&
Deda Elementi Alanera RS Spare Part, Headset Compression Ring, Black, 45°x45° (For DCR Headset)
I used the supplied header spacers and headset cover
The deda headset compressing ring will need sanded down by around 4mm off the top. **important** - you want around 1-1.5mm gap from the headset cover to the frame when checking fit before installing the compression plug.
Once you tighten everything up this gap will close up for a perfect fit. It’s tight as a duck arse now and no play. It was a 10 minute install with the higher quality parts.
I did email Chris about headset play and got a reply about adding a shim. I knew what I was getting into from reading reviews on the frame and others so hey ho. It is what it is.
Overall the paint quality on my frame was brilliant. I couldn’t find a single flaw. The bolt holes/bottom bracket/headset all needed a light sanding to get smooth. There was a little overspray in the groove for the headset bearing so check for that.
For anyone interested in the doodleing. Light sanding to give it a key and the clear coat used was Spray Max 2k - this stuff is amazing if your ever looking lacquer.
Tyre clearance is fine - the rear (measuring 43mm) is pretty close to the AXS battery so I’m not sure a 50mm would fit. Expect you could move the front derailleur out a few mm by not sure.
Bike rides well, taken it down some small drops and rough rocky paths. It’s sturdy and responsive. Ultrabite tyres give decent grip too
Thank you to everyone who posted thier builds. Really helped me a lot.
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Well, I’ve finally finished my VELOBUILD build. I haven't been able to take it out for its first ride yet due to an issue I'll explain below.
Overall, I'm happy with it, but there are a few things to keep in mind. In some cases, it was my fault for not looking into the details more closely:
My Mistakes:
- Matte Paint: I wouldn't recommend it. It shows every mark, and even the slightest rub leaves a visible scratch.
- Sizing: I went with a size S based on the Stack and "effective top tube" measurements. I don't think it actually measures 55cm; I’d say it’s closer to 53cm.
- 2x12 Setup (Sram Rival): Because of the battery size, the clearance with the rear wheel is very tight. Luckily, I’m running 40mm tires and it’s fine, but I don't think a 45mm would fit. If you're planning an all-road project with a double chainring, you should consider a Shimano group or Sram Wide.
Frame Flaws:
- I chose the non-aero handlebar, and honestly, the finish had some defects. It’s also a bit of a struggle to get it into the steerer tube. Plus, the included spacers are plastic, look very low-quality, and aren't very aesthetic.
- Brake Caliper Mounts: During the build, I found that the rear caliper isn't level, causing it to rub against the disc. The wheel is almost locked up. I’ll have to take it to another shop that has the right tool (a Park Tool facing tool), and that little "joke" is going to cost me over $50.
"Disappointments" (Component Weights):
- Frame (including all bolts): 1,215g (Size S)
- Fork (uncut): 480g
- Zero-offset Seatpost: 212g
- Integrated Handlebar (90x400): 395g"
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I own this frame as well and built it already last year. No real problems in the build-up of the frame.
I used the delivered headset bearings, compression ring, cover and so on. My question: Is it in theory possible to install a normal FSA ACR headset and then pair it with an FSA ACR compatible AeroCockpit or do I run into any kind of problems? This whole headset standards-thing is confuing me a bit...
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A little update on my build after I received my Elite Wheels Gravel Aero+ wheels. I am happy with the build for now, I am thinking about integrated bars for the weight savings and the looks but I do like the ease of maintenance with the bars I have now.
I really like the frame it feels fast and comfortable for me. Even with the aero seatpost. However I think I am going to try MyVeloFit to dial in my fit a little bit more.
The parts I used for this build are:
- AeroGrav frame size S
- 38cm ULLICYC gravel bars
- 90 mm Kocevlo semi integrated stem
- Supacaz lookalike aliexpress bar tape
- Ryet 3D printed saddle specialized mirror pro lookalike
- Titanium bottle cages from aliexpress
- Sram Force XPLR E1 groupset with 46T chainring and 165 mm cranks
- Sram t47 dub bottombracket
- Elite Wheels Gravel Aero+ wheels
- 40mm Hutchinson Caracal Race tires measuring 45.5 mm
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Is there someone who has made a 3d printed radar mount for this seatpost?
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Has anyone else has a similar problem? While riding, I can hear a loud, creaking sound, clearly coming from the derailleur hanger. What could be causing this? A cracked frame? The sound disappears for a few kilometers after I spray the derailleur hanger with multi purpose lubricant like wd-40 but then it returns. I've tried lubricating all the contact points between the hanger, the frame and the derailleur with grease, but it didn't help, the sound persists, making riding this bike unbearable. Here is a short video showing the problem:
https://youtube.com/shorts/gzvQ6XDUWGA?feature=share
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Is there someone who has made a 3d printed radar mount for this seatpost?
I can see if I can get my friend to design one, he's picking up his new 3d printer soon so gotta give him some things to practice on. But I think the Ridley ASTR one might fit.
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Hi - yall I just got my frame in and I’m having a hell of a time trying to get this headset figured out. I’m trying to run it with, what I think is, a FSA ACR stem. The compression ring it came with didn’t have the holes to line up with my headset cover that came with my stem, so drilled some but there is still a large gap. I’m assuming I’ll need a new FSA compression ring.
Stem:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMBI8gZ
TIA
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Has anyone else has a similar problem? While riding, I can hear a loud, creaking sound, clearly coming from the derailleur hanger. What could be causing this? A cracked frame? The sound disappears for a few kilometers after I spray the derailleur hanger with multi purpose lubricant like wd-40 but then it returns. I've tried lubricating all the contact points between the hanger, the frame and the derailleur with grease, but it didn't help, the sound persists, making riding this bike unbearable. Here is a short video showing the problem:
https://youtube.com/shorts/gzvQ6XDUWGA?feature=share
Sound is movement, lubrication is only a temporary fix. Make sure everything is tight enough, thru axle, cassette etc. Many times a sound is not coming where you think it is.
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I can see if I can get my friend to design one, he's picking up his new 3d printer soon so gotta give him some things to practice on. But I think the Ridley ASTR one might fit.
Why didn’t I think of that ;D
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Hi everyone,
I’m currently finishing a build on a Velobuild aero gravel frame and I’m running into an annoying issue with the headset preload that I can’t seem to fully resolve.
The problem is that I cannot properly preload the headset: even when tightening the top cap quite a lot, there is still a small amount of play in the headset.
What I’ve observed so far:
• The headset cover seems to sit very close to the frame and may be touching the frame before properly compressing the compression ring.
• The compression ring itself sits correctly in the bearing but can still be removed easily if the top cap is not tightened.
• The expander that came with the frame is the typical short plug with integrated top cap.
I’ve already tried a few things:
• assembling with and without spacers
• adding a ~2 mm shim above the compression ring
• tightening the expander quite hard
Unfortunately the play is still there.
From what I’ve read in this thread and others, it seems many people replace the stock expander with a longer one (for example Deda / similar 70 mm expanders).
My question for those who built the same frame:
Did replacing the stock expander alone solve the headset preload issue for you, or did you also need to change the compression ring / add shims / modify the cover?
I’d really appreciate hearing how others solved it before I start changing more parts.
Thanks!
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Not sure how how helpful this is but my frame came with an expanded plug that didn't have a specific top cap, thus I'm running my own top cap from an old build. I do see a 1mm or so gap between my headset cover and the frame W/o any shims on the compression ring.
I run the expander plug around 4mm below the top of the steerer. Best of luck.
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Thanks for the reply, that is actually helpful.
My frame came with a different type of expander plug – it’s the integrated type with the top cap built into it. I suspect that might be part of the problem.
Here are photos of the expander and the headset cover that came with the frame.
From what I can see, some Velobuild builds use different cockpits / headset covers, so I’m wondering if the tolerances might differ slightly depending on the cockpit version.
For reference, I just ordered a 70 mm Deda expander plug to replace the stock one.
Did your frame come with the same style expander or a different one?
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The expander plug must be two parted:
The head cap should be mounted with a screw and underneath there's a hex socket to mount the expander body.
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Thanks, that makes sense.
The expander that came with my frame is actually the integrated type where the top cap and expander are one single piece. I’m starting to suspect that might be the reason why I cannot properly preload the headset.
I just ordered a 70 mm Deda expander plug which uses a separate top cap and expansion system.
Hopefully that will solve the issue.
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Thanks, that makes sense.
The expander that came with my frame is actually the integrated type where the top cap and expander are one single piece. I’m starting to suspect that might be the reason why I cannot properly preload the headset.
I just ordered a 70 mm Deda expander plug which uses a separate top cap and expansion system.
Hopefully that will solve the issue.
are you sure it is? after the top cap comes off (often a hex 4 or hex 5 key) there is a screw in the expander (often hex 6 or hex 8) which you might have overlooked?
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@Nikulasch: That's what I wanted to point out.
The expander you posted the pic, you should be able to remove the screw from the top cap. If it's very tight, you need to mount the expander in a vise.
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Hello,
I’ve had my gravel bike assembled for a couple of months now. Although I’ve only done about 5 or 6 rides because I usually ride my road bike more often. The thing is that today I wanted to adjust the saddle tilt (I wanted to lower the nose because I was experiencing discomfort in the perineal area), and I found that there was no way to move the tilt.
I removed the saddle and it turns out that the clamp that hold the saddle rails are completely stuck. There’s no way to move them. I tried to disassemble it to apply a bit of grease, but it’s impossible to take it off. I don’t know what to do.
I’m attaching a photo of the parts I’m referring to.
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Hopefully that will solve the issue.
Mine is the same as yours, the gap between the top lip of the silver part sits about a 2.5mm to 3mm below to top of the bars. Also confirmed the gap between the cover and the frame is 1mm. Attached photos of all parts and the top cap I'm using.
I removed the saddle and it turns out that the clamp that hold the saddle rails are completely stuck. There’s no way to move them. I tried to disassemble it to apply a bit of grease, but it’s impossible to take it off. I don’t know what to do.
Mine is also sticking but it'll move angle under when I really torque it to a different angle. havent figured out a way to pull out the middle part, tried once to "twist" the saddle to try to loosen it but no luck.
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quick update on yesterday’s build 😅
The headset issue was that it wouldn’t preload properly: even when tightening everything there was still a bit of play because the top cover was bottoming out before the compression ring could properly load the bearing.
I fixed it by installing the 70 mm Deda expander and adding a 1 mm shim under the top cover. Now the headset preloads correctly and the play is gone. There’s still a tiny gap between the cover and the frame, but it’s purely cosmetic.
The other issue is the rear derailleur B-gap: when shifting from 36 → 42 the upper pulley slightly touches the 51T sprocket because the Shimano B-screw is already fully threaded in and I can’t move the derailleur further back.
So I ordered the 25 mm Wolf Tooth B-screw, which should give a bit more adjustment range. Hopefully that will solve it 🤞
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Hello,
I’ve had my gravel bike assembled for a couple of months now. Although I’ve only done about 5 or 6 rides because I usually ride my road bike more often. The thing is that today I wanted to adjust the saddle tilt (I wanted to lower the nose because I was experiencing discomfort in the perineal area), and I found that there was no way to move the tilt.
I removed the saddle and it turns out that the clamp that hold the saddle rails are completely stuck. There’s no way to move them. I tried to disassemble it to apply a bit of grease, but it’s impossible to take it off. I don’t know what to do.
I’m attaching a photo of the parts I’m referring to.
By screwing and tightening the saddle, that piece is compressed into the tube. Just insert a screwdriver into the hole and hammer the clamp on the other side.
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Here is my newly completed build!
Chameleon pink aero gravel frame in size M with integrated cockpit and Elite wheels aero gravel wheels with 45mm profile and 2.0 Continental Race King tires.
Shimano Grx di2 groupset and xt di2 derailleur
Ultegra discs
Miche xm12 11-51 cassette
Woolf-tooth 46t chainring
Fizik Tempo Argo saddle
KMC X12 chain
XT pedals
Magene crankset with P515 power meter and 167.5mm cranks
I didn't have any particular difficulties with the assembly, except for a few minor issues with the headset (resolved with a shim higher than the one supplied).
Perhaps I went a little overboard with the tire section (even though I have about 4mm of clearance per side at the narrowest point at the rear), but I've seen that someone else has already fitted them without any problems. The 46t is also quite close to the limit (I have about 4mm at the point closest to the frame).
I haven't done a test yet, but I'll definitely do one in the next few days.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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Here is my newly completed build!
Chameleon pink aero gravel frame in size M with integrated cockpit and Elite wheels aero gravel wheels with 45mm profile and 2.0 Continental Race King tires.
Shimano Grx di2 groupset and xt di2 derailleur
Ultegra discs
Miche xm12 11-51 cassette
Woolf-tooth 46t chainring
Fizik Tempo Argo saddle
KMC X12 chain
XT pedals
Magene crankset with P515 power meter and 167.5mm cranks
I didn't have any particular difficulties with the assembly, except for a few minor issues with the headset (resolved with a shim higher than the one supplied).
Perhaps I went a little overboard with the tire section (even though I have about 4mm of clearance per side at the narrowest point at the rear), but I've seen that someone else has already fitted them without any problems. The 46t is also quite close to the limit (I have about 4mm at the point closest to the frame).
I haven't done a test yet, but I'll definitely do one in the next few days.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
What width do the Continental Race King 2.0 measure when mounted on Elite rims with a 32 mm internal width?
And how much clearance is left between the tire and the frame, especially at the rear?
If possible, could you measure it and send some pictures?
I’m planning to run the Continental Race King 2.0 at the rear and the 2.1 at the front, but I want to make sure it won’t get clogged in muddy conditions.
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Good morning from Tirreno-Adriatico
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Hi guys,
I have finished my (first ever) built and ran into the same headset problem, its already more than tight and there is still play left. I dont fully get why and how you guys fixed it, so I would immensely appreciated your feedback. I also had to move the settings of the derallieur almost as much "inwards" as possible for the derallieur to sit over the cassette properly and was worried but shifting is smooth so I dont see any reason to change it.
Here is my built:
Grx Di2 827 (fully wireless) with 105 brakes and levers, enough for me and I much prefer the "slimmer" handles.
Elitewheels whatever :D
Velobuild Gravel handlebar
44t chainring, I will need bigger. Might even try a 9-45 cassette if 46 is the max chainring.
I would be very grateful for you input. Attached you see the expander, the cover and how the expander sits on top of the fork.
How on earth can I get rid of that headset play?
Shim? If yes, where is that supposed to go?
Shorten the fork another mm? -> From how it looks, that shouldnt make a difference. The cap sits correctly and I can properly "pull" the expander towards the top cap.
It feels more like there is "back and forth play" so when I pull the front break and push / pull the bike, the whole cockpit and spacer tower moves back and fort about 1-2mm.
Is that what you guys are describing?
Its driving me nuts and I am really at a loss at this point.
@Niculasch: LOVE your built, looks sick! Great colour, very nicely done.
Which handlebar have you got? It seems you can easily use a different expander, because the round top cap from the Deda fits?
I got the gravel handlebar from velobuild with the custom top cap, that wouldnt work / look stupid.
Also, is the chainline ok? The p515 is a narrower crankset than GRX / SRAM xplr, right? I initially wanted to built it with a p515 as well, have one in stock, but stepped away after reading about chainline.
@Motus: That looks like the same handlebar I got. Did you have play in the headset and how did you fix it?
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If a steerer tube is few mm too long to remove the play you can always tighten the headset first using a round spacer if you have one. Sometimes you can even use a spacer from integrated handlebar installed sideways. After tightening the top cap so there's no play tighten the stem bolts then remove the top cap and round spacer and install the original top cap.
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Here is my build:
Size S Frame color Chromoxide green RAL 6020 in glossy.
Velobuild Integrated Handlebar with flare in 400x100
Full new Sram Rival XPLR 13 Speed group
Elitewheels 38mm Gravel Wheelset
Schwalbe G One RX Pro in 50mm in front
TUFO Thunder 48mm in back
I tried Thunderburts 2.1 in the back but its veery close to the chainstay. I´m not sure if would ride it like that. There is like 2mm space to the chainstays.
Building up was easy without major Problems. Routing the hose through the handlebar was easy without routing tools and made like first try. The metal two-piece spacers are nor really well made. The 1,5cm one doesn't fit nice together. I have no headset play after three rides but we will see. The rear brake mount wasn´t faced properly. Sanded a little bit of paint and it was ok. The seat post doesn't slip.
It rides very fast and snappy but boy it is stiff. Had only an aluminium gravel bike before and I thought carbon is more "flex"-kindof but it's very rigid. But that was kind of what I was looking for.
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If a steerer tube is few mm too long to remove the play you can always tighten the headset first using a round spacer if you have one. Sometimes you can even use a spacer from integrated handlebar installed sideways. After tightening the top cap so there's no play tighten the stem bolts then remove the top cap and round spacer and install the original top cap.
Im not sure I get what you mean. Isnt that the same effect as shortening the fork another 1-2mm?
And it sound like transferring all the "force" onto the stem bolts?
I think there are 3 options, which applies here I dont really now. Either the expander doesnt hold, or I have cut the steering tube just slightly too long so I cant apply the necessary force, or there is "play" in the bearings.
Has anyone used my type of handlebar and the out of the box equipment from Velobuild without issues?
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Adding additional spacers will help you diagnose what's going on with your headset (without the hassle of having to cut the fork again).
Loose expander -> carefully observe position of expander, then tighten top cap (with the additional spacers installed). Then disassemble everything again to see whether the expander moved.
Steerer tube too long -> if the issue with the headset play doesn't return with the additional spacers installed (and you have ruled out the expander), you know your steerer tube needs shortening.
Bearing play -> unlikely, I suspect you'd be able to feel that just by handling the bearings.
And yes, the clamped stem is what's meant to keep the headset compressed; the top cap is only intended for the initial bearing pre-load.
Regarding your question about the shim, you'll need shims if your bearing cover bottoms out against the frame; you want the cover to float just above the headtube. The shim(s) would sit between the compression ring and the cover.
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What width do the Continental Race King 2.0 measure when mounted on Elite rims with a 32 mm internal width?
And how much clearance is left between the tire and the frame, especially at the rear?
If possible, could you measure it and send some pictures?
I’m planning to run the Continental Race King 2.0 at the rear and the 2.1 at the front, but I want to make sure it won’t get clogged in muddy conditions.
internal width of my wheels are 24mm. I made a mistake on the model of elite wheels: mine is slr which, on 45mm, is 24mm inner width. clearance is 4mm on both side (tire nubs touch the frame).
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Hi guys,
I have finished my (first ever) built and ran into the same headset problem, its already more than tight and there is still play left. I dont fully get why and how you guys fixed it, so I would immensely appreciated your feedback. I also had to move the settings of the derallieur almost as much "inwards" as possible for the derallieur to sit over the cassette properly and was worried but shifting is smooth so I dont see any reason to change it.
Here is my built:
Grx Di2 827 (fully wireless) with 105 brakes and levers, enough for me and I much prefer the "slimmer" handles.
Elitewheels whatever :D
Velobuild Gravel handlebar
44t chainring, I will need bigger. Might even try a 9-45 cassette if 46 is the max chainring.
I would be very grateful for you input. Attached you see the expander, the cover and how the expander sits on top of the fork.
How on earth can I get rid of that headset play?
Shim? If yes, where is that supposed to go?
Shorten the fork another mm? -> From how it looks, that shouldnt make a difference. The cap sits correctly and I can properly "pull" the expander towards the top cap.
It feels more like there is "back and forth play" so when I pull the front break and push / pull the bike, the whole cockpit and spacer tower moves back and fort about 1-2mm.
Is that what you guys are describing?
Its driving me nuts and I am really at a loss at this point.
@Niculasch: LOVE your built, looks sick! Great colour, very nicely done.
Which handlebar have you got? It seems you can easily use a different expander, because the round top cap from the Deda fits?
I got the gravel handlebar from velobuild with the custom top cap, that wouldnt work / look stupid.
Also, is the chainline ok? The p515 is a narrower crankset than GRX / SRAM xplr, right? I initially wanted to built it with a p515 as well, have one in stock, but stepped away after reading about chainline.
@Motus: That looks like the same handlebar I got. Did you have play in the headset and how did you fix it?
If you read some of the posts above, you'll find my experience. Basically, my problem was with the included shim, which was too thin and didn't allow me to tighten the headset properly (the cover would hit first). I solved it with a 1mm shim (the only one I had on hand; I'm waiting for a thinner one so there's less space between the cover and the frame). Actually, the handlebar is the standard one that came with the frame (I’ve noticed that almost everyone has a different one, so I’m not sure). Yeah, you’re right on the crankset — the P515 has a narrower (road) chainline compared to GRX/XPLR. On paper it’s not ideal with wide cassettes, especially 10/51 or 11/51.
That said, I’ve seen quite a few builds mixing road cranks (Ultegra, etc.) with XT rear derailleurs — same concept. It’s a bit of a compromise, but it works fine in practice as long as you spend some time dialing in the setup.
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I rode an aerogravel for around 1600km chosen to replace my actual ican gra02. Geometry is identical at the exception of the chainstays 425 vs 430 and i used the same components to make a fair comparison.
On static it's a very well done frame, clean internals, quality anodized aluminium headset parts, handlebar is pretty good too, easy routing, i didn't like the tightening system where you need 2 keys. I didn't have any problems with the parts provided.
One color painting had correct/good quality but seems fragile, easy to scratch.
Firstly i rode the VB with the tufos 40 i'm used to.
The frame itself felt a little bit more lively/light under pedaling but global comfort/stiffness is equal, on the stiff/harsh side.
The velobuild fork is beefier and thus really rigid, it was clearly less comfortable than the ican's one.
I have to say i was a bit disapointed, the difference with a nearly 10 years old ican gra02 is marginal and riding on tiny tires is not the best once you leave soft gravel.
Then i briefly rode with mtb tires. The bike is much more capable, smoother at the price of less lively and responsive feeling.
But it's far away from the ability of a real mtb.
I ended on the 50 specialized tracer, which were a good mix between the comfort of mtb tires and the liveliness of gravel tires.
My conclusion is that the aerograv is a responsive bike, it can be fun, but definitely not a refined frame, comfort relies almost only on the wheels/tires choice and to me you need minimum 45mm tires.
As many mentions it lacks of compliance, sometimes hitting hard stuff at speed makes you worrying about losing some theeths, fork really shakes you...
Despite the low price, for these reasons, i didn't fall in love with the aerograv, i probably just recommend it if you like really stiff bikes or ride soft gravel terrains.
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I rode an aerogravel for around 1600km chosen to replace my actual ican gra02. Geometry is identical at the exception of the chainstays 425 vs 430 and i used the same components to make a fair comparison.
On static it's a very well done frame, clean internals, quality anodized aluminium headset parts, handlebar is pretty good too, easy routing, i didn't like the tightening system where you need 2 keys. I didn't have any problems with the parts provided.
One color painting had correct/good quality but seems fragile, easy to scratch.
Firstly i rode the VB with the tufos 40 i'm used to.
The frame itself felt a little bit more lively/light under pedaling but global comfort/stiffness is equal, on the stiff/harsh side.
The velobuild fork is beefier and thus really rigid, it was clearly less comfortable than the ican's one.
I have to say i was a bit disapointed, the difference with a nearly 10 years old ican gra02 is marginal and riding on tiny tires is not the best once you leave soft gravel.
Then i briefly rode with mtb tires. The bike is much more capable, smoother at the price of less lively and responsive feeling.
But it's far away from the ability of a real mtb.
I ended on the 50 specialized tracer, which were a good mix between the comfort of mtb tires and the liveliness of gravel tires.
My conclusion is that the aerograv is a responsive bike, it can be fun, but definitely not a refined frame, comfort relies almost only on the wheels/tires choice and to me you need minimum 45mm tires.
As many mentions it lacks of compliance, sometimes hitting hard stuff at speed makes you worrying about losing some theeths, fork really shakes you...
Despite the low price, for these reasons, i didn't fall in love with the aerograv, i probably just recommend it if you like really stiff bikes or ride soft gravel terrains.
I completely agree with your analysis. Being very stiff it requires a bit of time of adaptation to it especially on rough surfaces and ride confort always lacks. But after a few weeks of adaptations, on downhill light gravel roads (tuscan white roads for example) or even paved I found it great giving a lot of confidence, and it somehow surprised me. Definitely not an all round gravel frame, but good for a specific use.
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It's funny, cause I just reviewed mine as less stiff than I want it to be. But I also use it mostly as a hybrid between tarmac and light gravel.
What you guys are saying makes perfectly sense. I'm just not used to riding gravel bikes, but more Aero road bikes. Compared to my Merida Reacto I really think it lacks stiffness when trying to hit peak powers.
It might be me losing touch with the original intend of the frame.
https://www.instagram.com/dadvibescycling/reel/DVywHrACH62/
The positive news is that I've just ordered some gravel wheels and wider tires to try more gravel.
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Compared to my Merida Reacto I really think it lacks stiffness when trying to hit peak powers.
Saw the vid. What frame sizes you're sporting (Velobuild/Merida)? Just curious :-)
Less stiff, but you still recommend it as versatile allrounder, right?
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Saw the vid. What frame sizes you're sporting (Velobuild/Merida)? Just curious :-)
Less stiff, but you still recommend it as versatile allrounder, right?
XL both. Geometry is very similar on them :)
And yes. For the price point I think it’s a excellent choice for an all rounder. I’m using 35 mm tires and use it half on road, half on dirt.
And regarding the stiffness - I only really notice it when I’m trying for +1200W.
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Pretty damn annoyed with the headset and cockpit. Cockpit required good bit of filing to get it flat, bottom was horribly uneven.
Second problem is with the metal U-ring being too thin, dust cap sits against the frame. It is fine with some shims but it does not look like an ideal solution because of the internal cable routing. I am kinda afraid that over time edge of the very thin shim will cut into the brake hoses.
Any ideas? I thought about cutting the shim just under size of the U shaped ring and gluing it to the dust cover.
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Hi everyone, does anyone have any opinions on this BXT carbon frame https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005009971889379.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c38aOxUT)?
Use search function here in the forums theres several threads about this frame or where this frame is discussed.
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Adding additional spacers will help you diagnose what's going on with your headset (without the hassle of having to cut the fork again).
Loose expander -> carefully observe position of expander, then tighten top cap (with the additional spacers installed). Then disassemble everything again to see whether the expander moved.
Steerer tube too long -> if the issue with the headset play doesn't return with the additional spacers installed (and you have ruled out the expander), you know your steerer tube needs shortening.
Bearing play -> unlikely, I suspect you'd be able to feel that just by handling the bearings.
And yes, the clamped stem is what's meant to keep the headset compressed; the top cap is only intended for the initial bearing pre-load.
Regarding your question about the shim, you'll need shims if your bearing cover bottoms out against the frame; you want the cover to float just above the headtube. The shim(s) would sit between the compression ring and the cover.
Thank you, this was very helpful!
I got a spacer at a nearby shop and used the cap which was thankfully also provided by velobuild.
I think it has fixed the problem for the most part for now.
Its not pretty, but not ugly enough for me to redo the bleeding of the breakes - classic case of "whatever, Il leave it like that for now".
I still dont fully get the shim thing but maybe thats a topic to look into some other time.
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Has somebody tried the Continental Dubnital 2.2s in the front? Is it possible or too close?
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Has somebody tried the Continental Dubnital 2.2s in the front? Is it possible or too close?
I did a raceking 2.2 in the front and was fine. Currently running a 2.25 Vittoria Barzo and its close but still no rubbing. Its measuring at 56mm
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Hello,
I’ve just placed an order for the gravel frame ;D
I have a question regarding the rear caliper mount. I’m planning to run 160 mm rotors both front and rear. For the front, I assume I’ll use the 160/180 adapter bracket—but how does it work for the rear?
The groupset (Shimano R7170) didn’t include a rear caliper adapter. Can the caliper be mounted directly to the frame, or do I need to use an adapter such as SM-MA-R160D/D-B?
I’m trying to have everything ready before the frame arrives so I can get out on the gravel as soon as possible ;)
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Hey! Nice choice with the R7170.
Most gravel frames are native 140mm at the rear, so if you want to run 160mm rotors you definitely need an adapter. Shimano doesn't include it in the box because it depends on the rotor size you choose.
The part you need is the adapter. You can find it here:
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005010129355876.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3V3rxkP) (Just make sure to select the Flat Mount R160 version from the options).
One thing to check: make sure the frame comes with the mounting bolts, otherwise you'll need to buy them separately based on the thickness of your chainstay.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for the reply! I’ll make sure to get one of those.
Now I’m just hoping the front derailleur will fit and won’t limit the tire clearance, but I guess I’ll find that out soon enough :)
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Thanks for the reply! I’ll make sure to get one of those.
Now I’m just hoping the front derailleur will fit and won’t limit the tire clearance, but I guess I’ll find that out soon enough :)
For the rear, no adapter is required for a 160 mm disc, as this is the minimum size supported by the frame.
For the front, to use a 160 mm disc, a 140 mm adapter is used, since it is also designed to accommodate 160 mm.
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Howdy - I think TSA lost my seatclamp coming back from midsouth. I emailed Chris, he said send $30 over paypal and they'll get them shipped, I did and asked for any updates and haven't heard anything back for nearly a week.
Wondering how worried I should be here. I did send a followup early yesterday and haven't heard back, though I know it's only been a day on that. But my frame is unusable without that clamp and I have quite the gravel season ahead of me.
Any better way to get ahold of him? Or alternatives you've found for the clamp?
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For the rear, no adapter is required for a 160 mm disc, as this is the minimum size supported by the frame.
For the front, to use a 160 mm disc, a 140 mm adapter is used, since it is also designed to accommodate 160 mm.
Okey thanks, I guess i don’t need to get any other bracket as it should work with the one on the attached image then?
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Okey thanks, I guess i don’t need to get any other bracket as it should work with the one on the attached image then?
I will say on my twoo calipers I had to set my bracket to 140 for it to fit my 160 rotor. Setting it to 160 = 180 rotor. So maybe worth having a 140 bracket handy. Front was true to 160 = 160. Shimano may be different tho.
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Pretty damn annoyed with the headset and cockpit. Cockpit required good bit of filing to get it flat, bottom was horribly uneven.
Second problem is with the metal U-ring being too thin, dust cap sits against the frame. It is fine with some shims but it does not look like an ideal solution because of the internal cable routing. I am kinda afraid that over time edge of the very thin shim will cut into the brake hoses.
Any ideas? I thought about cutting the shim just under size of the U shaped ring and gluing it to the dust cover.
Update on this.
Emailed Chris about headset and he offered to make a taller compression ring as shimming was not really ideal. Instead of a new compression ring I did buy a new upper bearing that is 1mm taller so 40x52x8 instead of the original 40x52x7. I think space between frame and dust cap is great right now.
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Update on this.
Emailed Chris about headset and he offered to make a taller compression ring as shimming was not really ideal. Instead of a new compression ring I did buy a new upper bearing that is 1mm taller so 40x52x8 instead of the original 40x52x7. I think space between frame and dust cap is great right now.
Hi, from your experience, would this bearing (attached diagram) be the correct one?
Unsure of the angles as I ordered the bike but want to get ahead of any issues when assembling.
Thank you!
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Hi, from your experience, would this bearing (attached diagram) be the correct one?
Unsure of the angles as I ordered the bike but want to get ahead of any issues when assembling.
Thank you!
Yes I believe so.
This is the taller bearing I bought and have installed as top headset bearing: https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16h8-bo-acb52-bo-kugellager-steuersatz.html
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Here is my newly completed build!
Matt black aero gravel frame in size XS with integrated cockpit and Gryper wheels 45D with 50c Victoria T50 tires.
Shimano GRX 827 1 x bike groupset
Shimano SLX 10-51 cassette
Pass Quest 48t Aero chainring (no spacer add on and no issue for chainstay between chairing with 48T )
No brand saddle
Shimano XT chain
Shimano 105 Road pedals
Shimano Dura Ace with 4iiii dual Power Meter 170mm crank arm
I didn't have any particular difficulties with the assembly, except for a Pass Quest Chairing blocking the 4iiii Power Meter. Just slight modifications to fit in the 4iiii battery cap.
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Here is my newly completed build!
Matt black aero gravel frame in size XS with integrated cockpit and Campy Shamal wheels with 50c Victoria T50 tires.
Shimano GRX 827 1 x bike groupset
Sunshine(http://) 11-46 cassette
Pass Quest 48t Aero chainring (no spacer add on and no issue for chainstay between chairing with 48T )
No brand saddle
Shimano XT chain
Shimano 105 Road pedals
Shimano Dura Ace with 4iiii dual Power Meter 170mm crank arm
I didn't have any particular difficulties with the assembly, except for a Pass Quest Chairing blocking the 4iiii Power Meter. Just slight modifications to fit in the 4iiii battery cap.
How high is your saddle??
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BB to saddle 68.3cm
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Anyone running 2.1 Thunderburts or a Schwalbe G-One RS PRO 50mm with fenders?
Wondering if either setup has enough clearance to fit Bluemels fenders.
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@ everyone with a VeloBuild Aero Gravel frame:
What is real world maximum tire width WAM?
Thankful for every answer!
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I have 2 questions to build the bike:
Any tool for BB sram dub t47i ? Need the wide version of bb? The cracks is force wide in 1x
The frame is compatible with internal centerlock brakes? I have 2 Shimano cl700.
Thanks!!
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What is real world maximum tire width WAM?
rear I have a 52mm and front 56mm.
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rear I have a 52mm and front 56mm.
@Unknownftp - Thanks for your post. 52mm rear tire is with 1x drive train, right? Such wide tire would probably interfere with a front derailleur?
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@Unknownftp - Thanks for your post. 52mm rear tire is with 1x drive train, right? Such wide tire would probably interfere with a front derailleur?
Actually am running a front rd that's spaced out super far. I got some 5 mil spacers and some longer 5 mil bolts. Whenever ltwoo releases new gen EGR or etx I plan on dropping the front derailleur. It definitely rubs when the frame is under torque, but I'm not too worried about it for the time being
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It definitely rubs when the frame is under torque, but I'm not too worried about it for the time being
OMG this is tight!
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@ everyone with a VeloBuild Aero Gravel frame:
What is real world maximum tire width WAM?
Thankful for every answer!
Mounted and inflated Racing Ralph measures almost exactly 51mm. I can move a 3mm measured allen key between the tire and chainstay but not without resistance.
I would say 52mm is absolute maximum.
Of course tire shape does play some part in it too.
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Mounted and inflated Racing Ralph measures almost exactly 51mm. I can move a 3mm measured allen key between the tire and chainstay but not without resistance.
I would say 52mm is absolute maximum.
Of course tire shape does play some part in it too.
on size XL i could not put the rear wheel in with 50mm semi-slick tire without deflating it first.
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on size XL i could not put the rear wheel in with 50mm semi-slick tire without deflating it first.
I use the wheeltop group and to mount/dismount wheels with large tires I slightly loosen the UDH
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I use the wheeltop group and to mount/dismount wheels with large tires I slightly loosen the UDH
I added a shim to udh to shift the wheel back a little when putting it into the dropout. It's a design flaw. there need to be a recessed udh stop, without it the hanger is rotated forward too much
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Good morning. Which thru-axle is the correct one for my bike? I have stripped the thread on mine. The original axle has a 1.0 thread pitch, and the website also specifies 1.0. Could you provide an AliExpress link for the correct replacement? Thanks
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rear I have a 52mm and front 56mm.
Did you have or do you have MTB tires, right? What sizes and what internal rim width are you running?
I’d like to mount a fast-rolling MTB tire, but I’m concerned about the rear wheel. I have rims with a 29 mm internal width, and the Hutchinson Tundra 45C measure 50 mm on them.
I suppose I won’t have as much of a problem at the front.
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Did you have or do you have MTB tires, right? What sizes and what internal rim width are you running?
I’d like to mount a fast-rolling MTB tire, but I’m concerned about the rear wheel. I have rims with a 29 mm internal width, and the Hutchinson Tundra 45C measure 50 mm on them.
I suppose I won’t have as much of a problem at the front.
Rear - mezcal 2.1
Front -barzo 2.25
Rim internal is 17 or 19 mm. So tires blow up a bit undersized. Plus vittoria tends to blow up undersized from my reading. 50 rear you'd be fine.
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Anyone running a 52t 1x Front chainring?
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I recently finished this Aerograv size small gravel build in a deep red-purple glossy finish.
Cockpit:
Velobuild 100mm stem
Kovelo 36cm bars flared to 40cm
OG Evkin bar tape
Hammerhead Karoo mount and computer
Seatpost & Saddle:
20mm offset seatpost
WTB Gravelier saddle
Color-matched Rock Bros saddle bag
Rhino Walk bento box
Wheels & Tires:
Two wheelsets from Ukesport:
50mm deep matte road wheelset running Continental GP5000 28mm tires (measuring 31mm)
40mm deep X-Weave glossy wheelset with 40mm G1RS tires
Currently running TPU tubes
Enlee water bottle cages
Drivetrain & Brakes:
SRAM 13-speed E1 groupset
Force shifters, brakes, and crankset
Rival chain, cassette, and derailleur
40-tooth chainring
T47 bottom bracket
160mm rotors (required flipping the front caliper mount and removing the rear caliper mount to work with the SRAM E1 calipers)
Ride Impressions:
So far I’ve put about 500 miles on the bike with a roughly 50/50 split between gravel and road. This thing rips! It can genuinely replace a dedicated road bike for a lot of riding. I’ve taken it on several fast group road rides and it more than holds its own.
It’s not a full adventure/bikepacking rig, but I’ve already pushed it on some pretty chunky terrain. I’m definitely planning to try chunkier tires in the future.
Comfort-wise, it sits somewhere between my full-suspension mountain bike and my old-school aero road bike. I’ll just say it’s right in between something really fucking stiff and something with squishy.
Overall I’m very happy with how the build turned out. The assembly was relatively straightforward, and while this was a budget-conscious build, it’s definitely not a budget build.
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I have had this bike for about 6 months now and put maybe 1000mi on it. Size small matte black.
Overall impressions are quite good, certainly a bit stiff and chattery but also light and not overly slack geometry. I originally picked this frame because I was going to run a dual wheelset but ended up keeping my road bike so its maybe a bit more twitchy than I would necessarily choose for a dedicated gravel bike. Only issue I have had is the headset bearings are trash and the lower one has already failed and rusted out. A real pain with the internal routing. The seatpost is also prone to getting stuck into the frame.
Build:
Velobuild AeroGrav frame Small
Velobuild 100mm stem
0mm seatpost
Aliexpress saddle 96g 155mm
Aliexpress bottle cages (not the most secure)
Zipp SL-70 XPLR 42cm carbon bars
Rival D1 Levers/Calipers
GX Rear derailleur
XX1 Chain and cassette
Praxis Doon-GR 170mm crankset (excellent)
Evosid 3 bolt 42t chainring (terrible, replacing with wolftooth, endless chain drops)
Goldix R240SL Hubs
Pilar X-Tra 1420 spokes
Aliexpress 30mm internal 45mm deep carbon rim 24h (cant find the order history for exact name)
Schwalbe Thunder Burt 2.1
Clearance is sufficient with the 2.1 thunder burts which I am pleased with (4mm wrench fits between tire and chainstay). Racing unbound XL in a few weeks and if its dry ill run these and if its looking muddy ill use 45mm pathfinders or terra speeds.
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Size: L
Rims: CarbonSpeed 27mm Inner Width
Handlebar: 40cm 100mm stem
Front Tire: Conti Dubnital 2‘2 (tight, but no rub, unless its muddy)
Back Tire: Schwalbe RX-Pro 50mm (tight, rub when real muddy)
Original Plan was to fit Thunder burts in 2‘1 in the back. Is impossible though. The Rims make it as wide as the Dubnital 2‘2 (53mm vs 53,4mm).
Happy with the Offroad abilities of the Steed. Paint Quality is bad though, very easy to rub it off.
It will be used both as a Road & Gravel bike, therefore the 2x Shimano Grx, Mechanical.
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Hi!
I’m currently in the process of building up my bike. I’ve got almost everything set up, the only thing left is the front derailleur.
I’m trying to run an R7100 Di2 front derailleur with a 52/36 chainring, however I can’t seem to mount it high enough using the included front derailleur hanger.
Does anyone have experience running this frame with a 2x setup? Is a 50T chainring the maximum, or maybe even smaller?
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Happy with the Offroad abilities of the Steed. Paint Quality is bad though, very easy to rub it off.
It will be used both as a Road & Gravel bike, therefore the 2x Shimano Grx, Mechanical.
Very very similar build here, just size medium and ltwoo on mine. What's your build weight at?
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Very very similar build here, just size medium and ltwoo on mine. What's your build weight at?
Hi, it's around 9,5kg (excluding pedals), which is more than I expected. How about yours?
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Hi, it's around 9,5kg (excluding pedals), which is more than I expected. How about yours?
Around the same, I weighed it with my bags and pedals on at 20.5lb. The electronic groupo is def adding weight but, also not sure where the extra weight is totally coming from. Thinking of swapping to 1x but in the same boat as you of road and gravel so the range is good to have. How was the routing for mechanical?
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There is somebody on the forum that fitted thunder burt 2.1 on elitewheels aero gravel which have 32 internal width. How were you not able to fit them with 27mm iw rims?
Size: L
Rims: CarbonSpeed 27mm Inner Width
Handlebar: 40mm 100mm stem
Front Tire: Conti Dubnital 2‘2 (tight, but no rub, unless its muddy)
Back Tire: Schwalbe RX-Pro 50mm (tight, rub when real muddy)
Original Plan was to fit Thunder burts in 2‘1 in the back. Is impossible though. The Rims make it as wide as the Dubnital 2‘2 (53mm vs 53,4mm).
Happy with the Offroad abilities of the Steed. Paint Quality is bad though, very easy to rub it off.
It will be used both as a Road & Gravel bike, therefore the 2x Shimano Grx, Mechanical.
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Very very similar build here, just size medium and ltwoo on mine. What's your build weight at?
That's exactly what I was planning to do with the frame. It doesn't work??? 😢
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That's exactly what I was planning to do with the frame. It doesn't work??? 😢
I'm guessing you're talking about the front derailleur. I spaced my out super far from the frame and there is absolutely no mud clearance between it and the fd. It works but I wouldn't recommend. Just buying my time until etx or new egr, whichever is first.
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Around the same, I weighed it with my bags and pedals on at 20.5lb. The electronic groupo is def adding weight but, also not sure where the extra weight is totally coming from. Thinking of swapping to 1x but in the same boat as you of road and gravel so the range is good to have. How was the routing for mechanical?
Lovely build!
Routing within frame was easy. The Headset from VeloBuild I didn‘t like. Replaced it with a CaneCreek one + CC Spacers. The Cables are not running in handlebar but handlebar tape. Looks smooth enough for me!
If it was my gravel only dedicated bike I‘d have put SRAM Force XPLR AXS 1by.
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There is somebody on the forum that fitted thunder burt 2.1 on elitewheels aero gravel which have 32 internal width. How were you not able to fit them with 27mm iw rims?
I can put ThunderBurts in the back, but as soon as I cross 2.5 Bars they don‘t move anymore. And they cause frame damage at 1.7Bars as well. I tried it for y‘all
I was also expecting 29‘ Tires would fit but I‘ve accepted my fate (Schwalbe G-one RX Pro)
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easy fit for 2.1 TB in my size M frame on 28 internal rims.
(https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/mP5f6KFil-jOKvTVLPDQecvjmtaCOtfMjdpw9zk3ELA-1536x2048.jpg)
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Just completed my build. I had a 105 Di2 groupset left over after upgrading my road bike to Ultegra, so I figured I had to do something with it.
The front derailleur mount is misplaced, at least on the size S frame, it sits far too low. I had to switch to a 50/34 setup, even though my original plan was to run 52/36. I also had to file down the mount slightly to get enough clearance for the derailleur movement.
I’m running elitewheels aero grvl wheelset (32mm internal) with a pair of Hutchinson caracal race tlr 45mm
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I’m running elitewheels aero grvl wheelset (32mm internal) with a pair of Hutchinson caracal race tlr 45mm
whatre your 45's blowing out to on those rims. I ordered the rims last week so now debating throwing my mezcal 2.1 or my terrano pro 45's on.
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whatre your 45's blowing out to on those rims. I ordered the rims last week so now debating throwing my mezcal 2.1 or my terrano pro 45's on.
They measure about 49mm when mounted :)
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whatre your 45's blowing out to on those rims. I ordered the rims last week so now debating throwing my mezcal 2.1 or my terrano pro 45's on.
Mezcal 2.1 did not fit in my VB without rubbing
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Mezcal 2.1 did not fit in my VB without rubbing
We're you running them on the aero grav wheels? I also sliced the side knobs off on mine to about half height and a 19mm internal wheel
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Size: L
Rims: CarbonSpeed 27mm Inner Width
Handlebar: 40cm 100mm stem
Front Tire: Conti Dubnital 2‘2 (tight, but no rub, unless its muddy)
Back Tire: Schwalbe RX-Pro 50mm (tight, rub when real muddy)
Original Plan was to fit Thunder burts in 2‘1 in the back. Is impossible though. The Rims make it as wide as the Dubnital 2‘2 (53mm vs 53,4mm).
Happy with the Offroad abilities of the Steed. Paint Quality is bad though, very easy to rub it off.
It will be used both as a Road & Gravel bike, therefore the 2x Shimano Grx, Mechanical.
Good to know 2.25 Dubnital fit in there! Different question: How is the SPPC kit, especially the bibs?
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I built mine up some time ago but was having these huge gaps…so i want to disassemble everything again to get it right. What am i doing wrong? Is this C ring that holds the fork in place supposed to sit deeper in the bearing and therefore causing this gap?
I am wondering if i should by a new headset
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I built mine up some time ago but was having these huge gaps…so i want to disassemble everything again to get it right. What am i doing wrong? Is this C ring that holds the fork in place supposed to sit deeper in the bearing and therefore causing this gap?
I am wondering if i should by a new headset
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Good to know 2.25 Dubnital fit in there! Different question: How is the SPPC kit, especially the bibs?
heya!
The Bibs got me through Traka 360, can not complain. They don‘t look amazing in comparison to the Universal Colour ones I‘ve had before, but chamois pad was very much OK! (Size XL)
The Jersey looks nice, fit is ok for me. It definitely takes a longer time to dry, than normal jerseys. (Size XL)
Usually I‘m an L for both Jersey & Bibs! 187cm tall, 85kg.
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Allow me to display mine:
7,7kgs / 16.9 lb with wide and deep 50mm wheels
1x 13s XPLR
48t chainring
TUFO THUNDERO 44c measuring 47mm on the 32mm internal rims
UD Paintless Gloss fade to black
Her name is PURPLE DEATH.
Complete bike check video in English: https://youtu.be/ngPecOrhSII?is=hkaS-DbcNvz8Xba4
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Hi,
do you have any recommendations for a frame bag under the top tube? Have a frameset in size S and looking for a bag with 3 to 4 l volume and enough space for two bottles under it.
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Racing unbound XL in a few weeks and if its dry ill run these and if its looking muddy ill use 45mm pathfinders or terra speeds.
You'll have to give us a race review on the frame. Looking muddy this year so I'm guessing the 45s are going to be the go to
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So here is my experience building my velobuild aero gravel bike. It is my second bike build this year, the firs one was a LightCarbon lcr017. My satisfaction is in reference to the LightCarbon build.
The order went well with Chris. I build the bike with wheeltop gex groupset. Serenade wheels (28 internal with matte marble finish). Cassette, pedals, rotors, and crankset with power meter all from AliExpress.
I love the paintjob! It came without stem spacers which was not a problem because I chose a size with the stack I needed without any spacers but could be problematic for others.
As other experienced, I struggled a lot with the headset. The one piece expander plug sucks ass. I wasn't able to compress the bearing enough and get rid of the fork slack. I got back to Chris and he wasn't much of an help. So I ordered a two piece deda style expander plug. I was able to compress the bearing but now the dust cap was touching the frame. Again Chris wasn't too bothered. I ordered micro spacers to put between the compression ring and the dust cap. It solved my issue. Thanks to this forum and you guys! It solved my problem for a moment at least... I just come back from a gnarly gavel ride and the fork created a slack again. A bolt on the stem was a little loose. I hope it's only that. I put some carbon paste on the steerer tube and tighten everything up again. I hope everything will stay tight. If not I'll put locktite on the stem bolts. This issue created a chip on the paint on top of the headtube.
The build was significantly more conplicated than with my LightCarbon build. Only by the headset, I can see that Lightcarbon is a big step ahead in quality control and attention to details. The compression ring can move independently from the dust cap and micro shim. The facing of the caliper mount is not as well done as in my LightCarbon also.
I Was also disappointed that the handlebar had no flare at all. A little strange for a gravel bike.
I was able to fit thunder burt 2.1 without any issue. I pushed over 1000 watt and no rubbing. There is about 2mm clearance on each side at the rear.
Overall if the fork can stay tight and without slack I'll be happy. The price is right.
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quick update on yesterday’s build 😅
The headset issue was that it wouldn’t preload properly: even when tightening everything there was still a bit of play because the top cover was bottoming out before the compression ring could properly load the bearing.
I fixed it by installing the 70 mm Deda expander and adding a 1 mm shim under the top cover. Now the headset preloads correctly and the play is gone. There’s still a tiny gap between the cover and the frame, but it’s purely cosmetic.
Hi everyone regarding the headset issues, it seems to work when I use 2mm shim directly underneath the top cap, it seems to remove the play from the headset area.
Prior to this, I cut my steerer fork tube about an additional 4mm but still had the issue! But the shim seems to help.
I wonder if the top cap might be making contact with the steered tube compression plug and lifting it out as I torque the top cap…
If that’s the case the true fix would be to cut the steerer tube even more perhaps anotjwe 2-3mm? Which in theory should prevent the top cap from touching the top of the plug?
Any flaws to my thinking here before I get the saw out again?
Thanks everyone
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Hi yall,
so I had headset play for 1 year. Tryed little 0.25 mm C-shims as suggested here and also tryed better and longer expander plug (DEDA) without any success. I decided to buy a different Compression C-ring on aliexpress(see picture). Now it works perfectly. I chose the 7.3 mm but maybe the 6.3 mm could have been ok too. Just dont use the C-ring provided with the frame. Chris from Velobuild discarded the issue saying the issue with previous frame was solved few years ago despite many people on this forum with similar issue. I can confirm the new C-ring provided by velobuild with this frameset is not really better. Too stiff maybe.
Anyhow, problem solved and can finally ride the bike!
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Hi yall,
so I had headset play for 1 year. Tryed little 0.25 mm C-shims as suggested here and also tryed better and longer expander plug (DEDA) without any success. I decided to buy a different Compression C-ring on aliexpress(see picture). Now it works perfectly. I chose the 7.3 mm but maybe the 6.3 mm could have been ok too. Just dont use the C-ring provided with the frame. Chris from Velobuild discarded the issue saying the issue with previous frame was solved few years ago despite many people on this forum with similar issue. I can confirm the new C-ring provided by velobuild with this frameset is not really better. Too stiff maybe.
Anyhow, problem solved and can finally ride the bike!
Hey mate thanks for coming back with an update.
I’ve just gone ahead and ordered both versions based on your recommendation.
Fingers crossed it arrives before race day in two weeks!
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Here’s mine!
XL frame
Serenade 50mm 32mm internal wheels. Schwalbe G one 50mm (very tight fit in the frame)
SRAM Apex AXS.
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Just did a 100km gravel race on thus frame and thought I’d share my thoughts. The race day was incredibly muddy and overall a nightmare for gravel racing, but I’m pleased to report the bike performed flawlessly without any issues.
I’ve ridden about 800km on the bike so far and the only problem I’ve encountered is with the headset. It needed redoing a couple of times due to play but Chris from Velobuild suggested adding extra grease around the provided C-Ring. This worked and I had no headset problems during the race. However, I ordered a different C-Ring as suggested by another poster and plan to swap it out to see if there’s any difference.
The frame is XL and weighs 9kg, as shown in the photo, minus all the extra mud!
Overall, I’m very happy with the frame. The headset issue is disappointing but for the price I can’t really complain. Chris was also very responsive on WhatsApp even after the purchase when I had questions about torque specs and other details.
I’m happy with the frame and would definitely recommend it. It’s a bit heavier than I expected but I like to think that means it’s sturdier… hahah!
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If anyone has a small frame they want to part with, lmk!
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Hi, is there any news on whether Velobuild is going to update this frame? No matter how much I look, it remains my top choice for gravel and road riding: endurance geometry, aero frame and seatpost, 50mm tire clearance, UDH hanger... it has everything I’m looking for, except for a downtube storage compartment for tools. That would be a great upgrade for this frame.
Do you happen to know of any other frame that has these features but includes a downtube storage compartment?
Thanks.
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Not a direct answer to the post above, but more a comment on what this bike does and doesn't have. Yes, it has all of the above, and yes, I would've liked a storage compartment. But - the one thing this bike doesn't really have is comfort in the rear end. It's super harsh and I find that it doesn't really mute out any small washboard sections at all. Even with 2.1" TB below 20 psi I find the lack of comfort annoying. Not sure why, though. Another user on WW suggested it may be related to the seatpost. I'm using the zero offset post, which is real junk by the way - at least for my use case (I am very sensitive to changes in saddle tilt, and making small adjustments is very, very hard).
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If anyone has a small frame they want to part with, lmk!
PM
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Not a direct answer to the post above, but more a comment on what this bike does and doesn't have. Yes, it has all of the above, and yes, I would've liked a storage compartment. But - the one thing this bike doesn't really have is comfort in the rear end. It's super harsh and I find that it doesn't really mute out any small washboard sections at all. Even with 2.1" TB below 20 psi I find the lack of comfort annoying. Not sure why, though. Another user on WW suggested it may be related to the seatpost. I'm using the zero offset post, which is real junk by the way - at least for my use case (I am very sensitive to changes in saddle tilt, and making small adjustments is very, very hard).
I suppose that’s the appeal of this frame if you want to use it on the road—that extra stiffness provided by an aero seatpost. For trails, though, it’s definitely a drawback. By the way, do you know if any off-the-shelf seatpost would be compatible? For instance, a Ridley one, since the frame looks like a carbon copy of the Astr? Thanks.
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Sorry, I don't know whether the Astr seat post would fit, but I would be surprised if it did.
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I suppose that’s the appeal of this frame if you want to use it on the road—that extra stiffness provided by an aero seatpost. For trails, though, it’s definitely a drawback. By the way, do you know if any off-the-shelf seatpost would be compatible? For instance, a Ridley one, since the frame looks like a carbon copy of the Astr? Thanks.
Astr uses 27.2 round seatpost. Aero grav seatpost is unique to velobuild and it's shared between this frame and the 268
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Astr uses 27.2 round seatpost. Aero grav seatpost is unique to velobuild and it's shared between this frame and the 268
Astr RS uses D shaped seatpost.
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Hi yall,
so I had headset play for 1 year. Tryed little 0.25 mm C-shims as suggested here and also tryed better and longer expander plug (DEDA) without any success. I decided to buy a different Compression C-ring on aliexpress(see picture). Now it works perfectly. I chose the 7.3 mm but maybe the 6.3 mm could have been ok too. Just dont use the C-ring provided with the frame. Chris from Velobuild discarded the issue saying the issue with previous frame was solved few years ago despite many people on this forum with similar issue. I can confirm the new C-ring provided by velobuild with this frameset is not really better. Too stiff maybe.
Anyhow, problem solved and can finally ride the bike!
I followed your advice - I'm now two rides deep since and it works so far.
First time I've had two rides and no play afterwards.
So thank you!
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Hi all, I just ordered my frame and I’m kinda stuck between the 2x grx di2 groupset and ultegra di2. I’ll mostly be doing road riding ~70%, but I’d still like to fit big ol’ tires on my gravel wheels. Does anyone here have experience with FDR8150 and its tire clearance as well as a 34t inner chainring?
Thanks :)
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Does anyone happen to know the dimensions of the headset? Mine has started to feel a bit rough and needs replacement. Have managed to stear clear of the play, but only just, so will probably order that "other" C-ring and use that when I put things together again.
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Recieved mine two weeks after ordering in Belgium.
Zero issues. Sanded down the brake points with 60 grit but don't know if it was necessary.
I wish I had read the instructional videos for SRAM Rival direct mount though. Don't just use common knowledge from normal derailleurs, you will fail :D
Still waiting for my custom decals to arrive, but I already feel sorry I chose icecrack white because it's more silvergrey than white. The paintjob is more than good enough though.
I fitted one microshim underneath the stem but I don't think i had to, there was no rub. Shortened the steerer tube for the testride, but will shorten a bit more later.
8.1kg without pedals, size L.
Rival 1x13
Kocvelo carbon saddle (prologo 143 design)
Integrated cockpit velobuild 400/90
Fake supacaz handlebar tape
Ali plastic bottle cages
Assioma Uno pedals
elitewheels Aero + 45/31 wheels with 50mm terra hardpacks. Measure 53mm and I have 4mm all around, so ample clearance.
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What kind of computer mount fits to the integrated handle bar? Is it a 2- or 3-bolt mount?
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What kind of computer mount fits to the integrated handle bar? Is it a 2- or 3-bolt mount?
2 bolt like the kocelvo put front mount. It's kinda crap ngl
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Do you mind to explain why? Up to now I have not used any integrated handlebar, so I have no experience.
Are 2-Bolt mounts in general crap or just this specific one?
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I completed my friends build yesterday. Maybe a nice reference for you?
GRAV XS frame and GRAV XL frame.
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Do you mind to explain why? Up to now I have not used any integrated handlebar, so I have no experience.
Are 2-Bolt mounts in general crap or just this specific one?
A thick aluminium works great. The thin carbon ones are very bouncy.
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A thick aluminium works great. The thin carbon ones are very bouncy.
Exactly how I would put it. It bounces alot and idk if anyone else found this to be the case but mine seemed to have way to much positive angle to it. I bought some washers and long m5 bolts so I could tilt it down to where I wanted it.
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i used this, as it is aluminium and can be tilted (otherwise it sits way too high).
Works flawlessly
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005007425454545.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.348879d2XIGmFF&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
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So now that it's been a bit of time and Ridley have just come out with the Kanzo Fast 2.0... would love to see Velobuild (Chris if you're listening please!!!) update their aero gravel frame to take it to the next level.
I would simply copy that Ridley geometry the same as done with the ASTR RS, up the BB drop to 80mm, head angle the same, seat angle a degree steeper, 425mm chainstays and 57-58mm tire clearance. No storage compartment. Keep it simple.
The head tube can be deepened a little, use the shapes at the back of the Kanzo Fast 2.0 as reference to get the tire clearance up (my Velobuild has no paint on the inside of the chainstays any more, I'm sure a lot of you are the same with 50mm tires...).
The current frame itself is very fast with road wheels and tires on - with Chung testing it matched my Supersix Evo gen 4, which is a pretty fast bike. Velobuild know what they're doing! My bike has had a lot of interest here in Cape Town as it's a bit different, especially with the Bikedoc 34cm bars.
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So now that it's been a bit of time and Ridley have just come out with the Kanzo Fast 2.0... would love to see Velobuild (Chris if you're listening please!!!) update their aero gravel frame to take it to the next level.
I would simply copy that Ridley geometry the same as done with the ASTR RS, up the BB drop to 80mm, head angle the same, seat angle a degree steeper, 425mm chainstays and 57-58mm tire clearance. No storage compartment. Keep it simple.
The head tube can be deepened a little, use the shapes at the back of the Kanzo Fast 2.0 as reference to get the tire clearance up (my Velobuild has no paint on the inside of the chainstays any more, I'm sure a lot of you are the same with 50mm tires...).
The current frame itself is very fast with road wheels and tires on - with Chung testing it matched my Supersix Evo gen 4, which is a pretty fast bike. Velobuild know what they're doing! My bike has had a lot of interest here in Cape Town as it's a bit different, especially with the Bikedoc 34cm bars.
Any photos you could share of road mode?
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Attached the only pic I took - that's a 28mm tire on the front, it would look a bit better with 35mm+. I think the big gap around the fork is one of the reasons why it's so fast, a lot of 'breathing room' above the turbulent tire. [Caveat: I am stupid]
Bonus pic - the 2.35" G-One Speed in the front. Ran great for a race, but it truly sucked in crosswinds.