Chinertown
Other Resources => Component Deals & Selection => Topic started by: raisinberry777 on May 15, 2025, 06:35:01 AM
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Replacing the P505. Same price:
https://www.magene.com/en/pes/217-pes-p515-power-meter-set.html
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So what are the improvements? It looks a bit lighter (~25g or so) and accuracy change from 1.5 to 1%? Am I missing something?
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Was asking myself the same question. Here are the specs side-by-side. Not really any "real" changes, just some minor improvements. But then again, the price is the same. If performance is the same or even slightly better, I'm okay with a minor product refresh. Better than all the "silent updates" some other Chinese companies do (ehem Ltwoo). Would be a different story if they increased the price by 50 or even 100 USD.
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Agree. No desire to replace my p505, but improved battery life, weight and accuracy are good iterations. I also think they've made the back of it a little lower profile as the incompatibility warning for BB386 and T47I is gone and replaced with
*Compatible with 68mm-86.5mm standard road bike bottom brackets.
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Agree. No desire to replace my p505, but improved battery life, weight and accuracy are good iterations. I also think they've made the back of it a little lower profile as the incompatibility warning for BB386 and T47I is gone and replaced with
Ah yes, that's great news. I was looking for this info but couldn't see it anywhere.
I probably phrased my original post poorly - I did not mean to suggest that I was disappointes. I was just wondering what's different in the new version.
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Was asking myself the same question. Here are the specs side-by-side. Not really any "real" changes, just some minor improvements. But then again, the price is the same. If performance is the same or even slightly better, I'm okay with a minor product refresh. Better than all the "silent updates" some other Chinese companies do (ehem Ltwoo). Would be a different story if they increased the price by 50 or even 100 USD.
It clears T47 bottom brackets and has active temperature compensation, i think that those are the 2 main upgrades.
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I am considering buying one for my Ultegra groupset. Which one should I aim for? This one (https://www.magene.com/en/pes/217-pes-p515-power-meter-set.html)? Or the spider (https://www.magene.com/en/power-meters/58-p505-spider-based-power-meter.html)? I am a bit confused by Magene's webpage.
Where would be the best place to order it? Directly or from Magene?
Thanks!
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I am considering buying one for my Ultegra groupset. Which one should I aim for? This one (https://www.magene.com/en/pes/217-pes-p515-power-meter-set.html)? Or the spider (https://www.magene.com/en/power-meters/58-p505-spider-based-power-meter.html)? I am a bit confused by Magene's webpage.
Where would be the best place to order it? Directly or from Magene?
Thanks!
P515 is a better deal and newer tech. The auto temperature adaptation is a huge feature imo.
You have to order on AliExpress if you outside US.
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P505 already had temperature compensation
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P505 already had temperature compensation
Yeah, think I've read this to somewhere else :-)
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Yes, it's even on Magene's product page ...
Combined with built-in intelligent temperature compensation algorithms, it can provide you with precise and reliable power data at anytime and anywhere.
Source: https://www.magene.com/en/power-meters/41-pes-p505-base-power-meter.html?srsltid=AfmBOorN-Nc3EHKJi0P3MRwZWWUnGDRQ3aTeNvM-y-nUsPAKL6tOYCX_
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That's great to here, I thought it's a new feature. My bad
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P515 is a better deal and newer tech. The auto temperature adaptation is a huge feature imo.
You have to order on AliExpress if you outside US.
I just ordered direct from their uk site for £250. Will be pairing with da 9200 chainrings.
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It clears T47 bottom brackets and has active temperature compensation, i think that those are the 2 main upgrades.
I think the T47 compatibility was the biggest driving factor since everything seems to be going that direction.
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I can confidently state that the P515 is not compatible with my specific BB386 frame (Felt VR '23, the old one, BB is token ninja TF38624), at least not without drive side spacer shenanigans.
Regular installation just ends in the cranks locking up fully once the bearing pretension is set by feel, the beveled face on the back of the spider collides with the very bottom edge of the frame.
After bodging a 3d printed spacer somewhere around 0.7mm, i didn't measure the actual thickness, i'm getting a gap i can stick 0.65 feeler gauges into and a 10km test ride went without anything feeling or sounding off.
I'll check for scratch marks when i get my hands on proper shims and adjust accordingly.
Obviously i'm not happy with the situation but i don't feel like admitting defeat either.
Bought it from 'EU Tax-free Discount Store' which went fine, arrived in seven days from france via fedex, balance and pedaling smoothness features were already unlocked.
Box showed signs of having been opened before, my assumption is that it is a chinese SKU and the seller activated the spider prior to shipping since the magene app did not have any activation prompt and just paired readily.
PS: excuse the account new-ness, i've been lurking for a couple years
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I ordered it last wednesday from the Ali Magene official store as I had a hefty discount (268€ with prepaid duty) but still no shipping confirmation... Today I asked on their chat and they told me that due to high order volumes, stock is insufficient and there might be delays, and my messages only reached their AI chatbot.
I truly hope that they actually have it in stock and will send it out before the automatic refund of Ali kicks in, it would really bug me to have to rethink my budget and re-buy it at a higher price...
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A few rides and a quick aliexpress order later i have proper crankset spacers on hand.
Did not find any new/worsening scratches after removing the cranks so i'm calling the gap large enough for my meager power.
Definitely mixed something up as i had used a 1.2mm 3d printed shim before (not 0.7 as i thought), ended up settling on 1.3mm from a cheap muqzi set. It's just within the adjustment limits of the R7000 front derailleur.
It's definitely a bodge but it's my bodge.
Weight of the full 165mm crankset with R7000 chainrings is 805g, adding about 90g over the 105 crankset.
I've also attached a screenshot of the magene app in case anyone wonders what's in there.
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A few rides and a quick aliexpress order later i have proper crankset spacers on hand.
Did not find any new/worsening scratches after removing the cranks so i'm calling the gap large enough for my meager power.
Definitely mixed something up as i had used a 1.2mm 3d printed shim before (not 0.7 as i thought), ended up settling on 1.3mm from a cheap muqzi set. It's just within the adjustment limits of the R7000 front derailleur.
It's definitely a bodge but it's my bodge.
i guess i need those shims as well for my p505base on my tt-x38 t47 bb.
currently the crank can spin just fine, but there are some scratches on the bb shell. 0.5-1mm outward on driveside may help
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I already asked the question elsewhere and I was "friendly" advised to try in this already provided discussion.
Did anyone tried the combination of Magene P515 + Stone 48/33t 110m 4 bolts chainrings + T47 68mm BB and can kindly report how well it worked out?
Thanks in advance.
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As you may read on the PES 515 product page both alloy and carbon cranks are compatible with T47. Chainring of your choice doesn't change anything. Can be Stone, Shimano or any other 110 BCD. This is new setup, so there's low possibility to someone already have it installed.
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I really wish they would make a grx version… Or does anyone know how to make grx fd work with 105 crankset?
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As you may read on the PES 515 product page both alloy and carbon cranks are compatible with T47. Chainring of your choice doesn't change anything. Can be Stone, Shimano or any other 110 BCD. This is new setup, so there's low possibility to someone already have it installed.
I read it on the Magene HP, but I´d like to have some confirmation from the field.
Probably it makes no difference whether it's a T47 68mm or 86mm and yet again I´d like to be sure.
Same question for what concerns the chainrigs: I'm using a 33t ZA Specialites on an Ultegra crank and it works fine, but someone reported that it doesn´t work that good with another 110 BCD crank.
It has been a while since I built my last road bike and there are a few factors which are quite new to me, so I´d rather like to know instead of guessing.
The frame is already ordered and it has a T47 68mm BB.
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I really wish they would make a grx version… Or does anyone know how to make grx fd work with 105 crankset?
2.5mm of spacers to compensate for chainline and the height adjustment is up to your frame
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I really wish they would make a grx version… Or does anyone know how to make grx fd work with 105 crankset?
On one bike I have a GRX 810 FD with an Ultegra crankset and no issues.
The GRX FD has a wider range and can be easily adjusted.
I have an Ultegra FD with a GRX 600 crankset on anorher bike and it works more than reasonably well.
The only issue is that the chain slightly touches the FD while on the smallest sprockets and I couldn't get rid of it yet.
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2.5mm of spacers to compensate for chainline and the height adjustment is up to your frame
I'm not the master in groupset, but I though the spindle lengths were different between them?
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I'm not the master in groupset, but I though the spindle lengths were different between them?
I'm not sure to understand what you mean.
I replaced an Ultegra crankset with a GRX 600, I didn't add any spacer and I don't see any play.
Beside, road cranks and "Gravel" ones are made for the same BB size.
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I can confidently state that the P515 is not compatible with my specific BB386 frame (Felt VR '23, the old one, BB is token ninja TF38624), at least not without drive side spacer shenanigans.
Regular installation just ends in the cranks locking up fully once the bearing pretension is set by feel, the beveled face on the back of the spider collides with the very bottom edge of the frame.
After bodging a 3d printed spacer somewhere around 0.7mm, i didn't measure the actual thickness, i'm getting a gap i can stick 0.65 feeler gauges into and a 10km test ride went without anything feeling or sounding off.
I'll check for scratch marks when i get my hands on proper shims and adjust accordingly.
Obviously i'm not happy with the situation but i don't feel like admitting defeat either.
Bought it from 'EU Tax-free Discount Store' which went fine, arrived in seven days from france via fedex, balance and pedaling smoothness features were already unlocked.
Box showed signs of having been opened before, my assumption is that it is a chinese SKU and the seller activated the spider prior to shipping since the magene app did not have any activation prompt and just paired readily.
PS: excuse the account new-ness, i've been lurking for a couple years
was your box's bar code label written in chinese characters? my P505 power meter was confirmed by Magene to be a chinese market version by checking the bar code label this way
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Still nothing from the Ali Magene store... I am now certain that they allowed far more orders than they could supply, the shipping date went from "a few days" to "may 28" to "june 02" to "ghosted" and the chatbot now doesnt even try to answer...
Meanwhile they updated the "additional payment" part of the order (for prepaid duty) in order not to lose it when the due date was near.
I wrote to Magene via email as well but they don't seem too receptive about it.
Maybe I'm being left on read because I used discounts and coupons and gave them less money than others, maybe I pressed them too much by asking for updates, but one thing for sure is that their support is nonexistent at best.
I will wait another few days to see what happens and then I will open a dispute to get my money back and look for other options.
It's a shame because I've only heard great things about their products.
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I received mine today via Royal Mail, ordered on May 19th on their uk website. I’d been checking the provided tracking number but it never updated, then it just showed up.
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I asked the Magene cutomer support and the answer was:
"Dear Customer,
Good day. Thanks for your support on Magene.
Regarding your inquiry, we need to clarify that our P515 is compatible with T47 BBs, including both the 68 and 86 versions.
Thanks for your cooperation in advance.
Best regards,
Alecia"
On AliEx (Magene shop) you can read:
Not Support T47-86.5mm and BB386 bottom bracket ！
So at least half of the CS answer is wrong.
I wonder about the other half.
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I'm not sure to understand what you mean.
I replaced an Ultegra crankset with a GRX 600, I didn't add any spacer and I don't see any play.
Beside, road cranks and "Gravel" ones are made for the same BB size.
Interesting, I guess the chain line difference is just cassette spacing then?
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On one bike I have a GRX 810 FD with an Ultegra crankset and no issues.
The GRX FD has a wider range and can be easily adjusted.
I have an Ultegra FD with a GRX 600 crankset on anorher bike and it works more than reasonably well.
The only issue is that the chain slightly touches the FD while on the smallest sprockets and I couldn't get rid of it yet.
Now you make me really want to get one… For your other bike, was the grx fd clamped on or brazed?
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On AliEx (Magene shop) you can read:
Not Support T47-86.5mm and BB386 bottom bracket ！
On my Aliexpress product page is:
"Compatible with 68mm-86.5mm standard road bike bottom brackets."
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S851b75f77aac4ce396691ae9c49223d82.jpg)
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On my Aliexpress product page is:
"Compatible with 68mm-86.5mm standard road bike bottom brackets."
The question is whether it works with T47 68 and 86mm bottom brakets, due to the larger bearing diameter and the risk of interference with the power meter unit.
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Hi ChinerTown Team :)
I received the new P515 last week.
No issues with charging, no problem detecting it with the MAGENE Utility app, and same for connecting it to my bike computer. I was able to activate it online using the serial number, but the power always reads 0W on both the app and the computer. I’ve tried everything, and nothing works.
I also tried the magnet trick, but that didn’t work either — plus, the P515 is built differently from the P505, so I’m not sure if the magnet is supposed to go in the same place.
MAGENE customer support has been a disaster so far...
If anyone has had this issue and found a solution, I’d love to hear it.
Have a great day, everyone!
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I ordered P505 a day or two before P515 was launched. Was initially a bit disappointed but also meh.
Package showed up today and they actually sent me P515, so I’m really happy about that!
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Hi ChinerTown Team :)
I received the new P515 last week.
No issues with charging, no problem detecting it with the MAGENE Utility app, and same for connecting it to my bike computer. I was able to activate it online using the serial number, but the power always reads 0W on both the app and the computer. I’ve tried everything, and nothing works.
I also tried the magnet trick, but that didn’t work either — plus, the P515 is built differently from the P505, so I’m not sure if the magnet is supposed to go in the same place.
MAGENE customer support has been a disaster so far...
If anyone has had this issue and found a solution, I’d love to hear it.
Have a great day, everyone!
had the same issue with 505... reinstalled all apps and factory reseted the magene BC. Hope is it does the trick ;)
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Anyone knows if the 515 and 505 has the same mounting system to the crank? I'm looking forward for upgrading crankset for their carbon one when be released.
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Anyone knows if the 515 and 505 has the same mounting system to the crank? I'm looking forward for upgrading crankset for their carbon one when be released.
First time I've heard of it. Has there been any info on a carbon crank for P515?
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It's been at bike expos for a bit over a year now. For the most part it's similar to cybrei and all the other ones, so it probably comes from the same OEM
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First time I've heard of it. Has there been any info on a carbon crank for P515?
I belive it will be called Magene TEO and on one listing of PES515 on Ali I saw it in comparison table, but I can't find it anymore.
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I belive it will be called Magene TEO and on one listing of PES515 on Ali I saw it in comparison table, but I can't find it anymore.
https://www.tiktok.com/@uaecycle/video/7507886384238038280
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My short experience with P515.
Sale via Ali from the EU shop went very well, delivery took 3-4 days more then expected. Crank looks very good, marginal heavier than the 105. Assembly was also no problem, I ordered it with the QED chainrings. Installation on my Lightcarbon LCR017 was not a big problem, I did however have to add a spacer on the drive side because otherwise there would have been play between the two arms. First 100k tour was also problem-free, recording in. Compared to the power meter pedals seems to be lower in the numbers, maybe still needs to be calibrated. What I also noticed is that the QED chainrings are louder than my 105 crank.
I hope this can help you a little.
Best regards.
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Can anyone tell me the thickness of the spider arms where the chainrings bolt through for a Shimano 105 R7000/R7100 or Ultegra R8000/R8100 crankset?
I got a Magene P515 and tried to use the chainrings from my Tiagra 4700 on it, but I found that the Tiagra spider arms have a 4.6mm thickness vs Magene 3.4mm, so the bolts would bottom out in the large Tiagra chainring and the large and small chainrings would be too close together anyway. So I have some R8100 chainrings (no crankarms) and some M10 x 0.2, 0.5, 1mm chainring bolt spacers on order, but I would like to know the Shimano spider arm thickness so I can get the spacing right.
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What interface does the p515 have? I was thinking of upgrading to Elilee or sram red cranks.
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What interface does the p515 have? I was thinking of upgrading to Elilee or sram red cranks.
The P505 base has an interface that's unique to the Magene cranks and I can only assume the P515 is the same.
There's no other cranks to upgrade to. There should in the near future be a carbon crank called the TEO but availability is unknown for now.
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You can sort of bodge an easton mount crank onto a magene mount
https://youtube.com/shorts/BKQRqR7GiHY
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You can sort of bodge an easton mount crank onto a magene mount
https://youtube.com/shorts/BKQRqR7GiHY
How well does that work? Any more info on that? Did anyone try?
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The P505 base has an interface that's unique to the Magene cranks and I can only assume the P515 is the same.
There's no other cranks to upgrade to. There should in the near future be a carbon crank called the TEO but availability is unknown for now.
Cheers, glad I didn’t pull the trigger based on my assumption it was the same!
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TEO carbon cranckset will be released at June 25th.
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Does anyone know who makes the TEO cranks?
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probably the same factory that makes 95% of these other carbon cranks
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Cross post from AE Deals Thread:
Magene P515 Power Meter with their new carbon TEO Crank just released. 425g incl. PM is very competitive. Comes with a 29mm spindle and says it's compatible with T47 and BB386 up to 92mm width.
With the current sale, best code I could use was the 80 USD off, I can have them delivered to Germany for ~545 USD excl. Taxes. They do mention in their offering that they also have a tax included option but I don't know how much extra that would be.
Link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009343678679.html
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It's a bit iffy with taxes, but you can get elilee and stil come out lighter and cheaper here
https://cyclegears.net/products/elilee-xxe-carbon-crankarm?variant=45767895777538 (https://cyclegears.net/products/elilee-xxe-carbon-crankarm?variant=45767895777538)
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It's a bit iffy with taxes, but you can get elilee and stil come out lighter and cheaper here
https://cyclegears.net/products/elilee-xxe-carbon-crankarm?variant=45767895777538 (https://cyclegears.net/products/elilee-xxe-carbon-crankarm?variant=45767895777538)
Ist the shop legit?
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It is from what I can tell, their prices are pretty consistent for what most things would cost in china, and they've posted on weightweenies a couple times. Having info and puttting up the x-trecento cranks slready, is a good sign in my eyes too. However, I have, admittedly, not bought anything there yet.
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Mines now listed on eBay uk
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Can anyone tell me the thickness of the spider arms where the chainrings bolt through for a Shimano 105 R7000/R7100 or Ultegra R8000/R8100 crankset?
I got a Magene P515 and tried to use the chainrings from my Tiagra 4700 on it, but I found that the Tiagra spider arms have a 4.6mm thickness vs Magene 3.4mm, so the bolts would bottom out in the large Tiagra chainring and the large and small chainrings would be too close together anyway. So I have some R8100 chainrings (no crankarms) and some M10 x 0.2, 0.5, 1mm chainring bolt spacers on order, but I would like to know the Shimano spider arm thickness so I can get the spacing right.
Just to follow up on this, I received the Ultegra R8100 chainrings and they worked perfectly fine with the P515 and the rest of my mix and match drivetrain: Tiagra 4700 10 speed chain, cassette, rear derailleur, shifters and 105 R7100 front derailleur.
It was 8.8mm from the insides of the small ring teeth to the large ring teeth and I still don't know what the spec is, but it's wider than the 4700 crankset at 7.9mm. That could be why the R8100 chainrings work with my 10 speed chain.
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Hi guys. I found this power meter at a great price and I’m looking into if I can use the P515 with the new 13 speed SRAM Rival 1x groupset, but I’ve not had any luck at getting an answer. I plan on putting a Garbark 46t chainring on. It’s T47 BB. Any suggestions are much appreciated!
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Hi guys. I found this power meter at a great price and I’m looking into if I can use the P515 with the new 13 speed SRAM Rival 1x groupset, but I’ve not had any luck at getting an answer. I plan on putting a Garbark 46t chainring on. It’s T47 BB. Any suggestions are much appreciated!
Well there are several incompatibilities:
Magene PES P515 vs SRAM Rival XPLR AXS 13 sp
BB spindle: 24mm vs 28.99mm
Crank to spider interface: Magene proprietary vs SRAM 8 bolt Direct Mount
Spider: 110 BCD 4 bolt (Shimano) vs N/A for SRAM Direct Mount
Chainrings: best to have narrow-wide teeth for 1x and it will need to be compatible with SRAM flattop road chains.
I suppose you could get a Magene P515 with a T47 24mm BB and a Wolf Tooth 110 BCD 4 bolt 1x chainring with Drop-Stop B and that will work with a SRAM flattop road chain.
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Well there are several incompatibilities:
Magene PES P515 vs SRAM Rival XPLR AXS 13 sp
BB spindle: 24mm vs 28.99mm
Crank to spider interface: Magene proprietary vs SRAM 8 bolt Direct Mount
Spider: 110 BCD 4 bolt (Shimano) vs N/A for SRAM Direct Mount
Chainrings: best to have narrow-wide teeth for 1x and it will need to be compatible with SRAM flattop road chains.
I suppose you could get a Magene P515 with a T47 24mm BB and a Wolf Tooth 110 BCD 4 bolt 1x chainring with Drop-Stop B and that will work with a SRAM flattop road chain.
I don't see the problem with spindle size or "proprietary spider interface" (it's just 110BCD4) since he mentioned a garbaruk chainring. He can just get the right BB for the P515 and any 4 bolt 110BCD chainring (am I blind or does garbaruk not make any?). Flat top isn't necessary on 1x
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I don't see the problem with spindle size or "proprietary spider interface" (it's just 110BCD4) since he mentioned a garbaruk chainring. He can just get the right BB for the P515 and any 4 bolt 110BCD chainring (am I blind or does garbaruk not make any?). Flat top isn't necessary on 1x
I included it for completeness and because some SRAM or third party chainrings for XPLR 1x are 8 bolt direct mount straight to the spindle with no spider, so they wouldn't work with the Magene P515. But I did look a bit more and Garbaruk does have one for 110 BCD 4 bolt:
https://global.garbaruk.com/shop/garbaruk-chainring-for-shimano-ultegra-8000-849?category=7#attribute_values=72,79,30
The latest SRAM Rival E1 XPLR 13 speed is made for a SRAM Road flattop chain with larger rollers, so when using a narrow-wide 1x chainring, the teeth have to be compatible with the flattop chain. You may be thinking about SRAM Eagle 1x12 sp which did not use a flattop chain.
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I looked a bit more into it and asked ChatGPT to check for issues. I found this setup should be compatible and work:
Alugear 110bcd 4 bolt chainring compatible with SRAM 12 speed Flattop chains (https://alugear.com/chainrings-1x/290-15630-round-1-speed-for-12sp-110-bcd-4b-shimano-asymmetric-roadgravel.html#/27-color-silver/33-size-38t)
T47 24 mm bb (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005447989967.html)
I also noticed another user with the same setup here (Magene P505 though, but Flattop chain): https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6184.0.html
I'll go ahead and pick up the P515 :)
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I used cheap Deckas chainrings with flattop chain without any issues. For 2x passquest has axs covered for 110bcd 4 or 5 bolt:)
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I just bough the P515 powermeter
After installing and torquing everything up to specs, calibration gives me an offset of -39.
Is it normal? seems a bit high for me.
Anyone else got high values?
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I haven’t received yet, what is this offset supposed to be measuring?
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I just bough the P515 powermeter
After installing and torquing everything up to specs, calibration gives me an offset of -39.
Is it normal? seems a bit high for me.
Anyone else got high values?
I don't really know what the number corresponds to, but I think that's close to what I see when I do it with my app or headunit. A lot of time I don't bother doing that and just backpedal the crank 5-10 turns before starting a ride.
I do also know that my stages MTB left crank arm reads a totally different number when I calibrate. I want to say something like 118 or something. Again not sure what it coresponds to, but it's fairly consistent, AND I assume the power readings while riding "feel" similar to efforts between bikes.
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Anyone else has creaking with these cranksets? Been riding these for a while now. And had like 3 or 4 different units they all develop creaking over time. Friends have the same issue.
Already tried this multiple times: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kv69g2StmVU
If anyone has an idea, friends don't hear it when riding next to me but I hear it lol
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Hi everyone,
I’d like to confirm the compatibility of the Magene P515 powermeter crankset with my current bike setup and make sure I have all necessary tools and components before starting the installation.
I've never installed a powermeter or changed my crankset before, so I want to be sure that everything is compatible before I order it.
My current bike setup:
• Bike: Canyon Endurace CF SL 8.0 Disc (https://www.canyon.com/en-de/endurace-cf-sl-disc-8.0/2185.html?dwvar_2185_pv_rahmenfarbe=BK%2FGY&dwvar_2185_pv_rahmengroesse=S&history=1)
• Groupset: Shimano Ultegra R8000 (50/34 chainrings)
• Bottom bracket: Shimano Pressfit BB72 (PF86.5)
• Crankset: Shimano FC-R8000 (Hollowtech II (24 mm spindle)) (https://bike.shimano.com/en-NA/products/components/pdp.P-FC-R8000.html)
Magene PES 515 Info I've found:
• Comes with PES20 crank arms (24 mm steel spindle)
• Uses standard 110 mm 4-bolt BCD
• Magene offers its own QED chainrings, but I’d prefer to reuse my existing Ultegra R8000 chainrings if possible.
My main questions:
1. Is the Magene P515 crankset fully compatible with my bike (PF86.5 BB72, Ultegra R8000, 24 mm spindle)?
2. Can I reuse my existing Ultegra R8000 chainrings, or do I need to buy Magene’s QED chainrings due to BCD differences (as Shimano’s 110 BCD is asymmetrical (ChatGPT said that they are not compatible))?
3. Do I need to replace the bottom bracket, or can I use the existing one (it’s running smoothly)?
4. Did I forget any essential tools or parts?
Tools I already own:
• Allen keys
• Torque wrench (up to 25 Nm)
Tools I think I still need to buy:
• Shimano TL-FC16 (for the preload cap)
• Chainring nut wrench (for removing/reinstalling chainrings)
• Threadlocker (Loctite 243) or grease for chainring bolts
I’m not planning to remove or replace the bottom bracket, so I assume I don’t need tools like the Park Tool BBT-9 (for threaded BBs) or press-fit tools.
Any confirmation or corrections would be much appreciated. Thanks!
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Hi everyone,
I’d like to confirm the compatibility of the Magene P515 powermeter crankset with my current bike setup and make sure I have all necessary tools and components before starting the installation.
I've never installed a powermeter or changed my crankset before, so I want to be sure that everything is compatible before I order it.
My current bike setup:
• Bike: Canyon Endurace CF SL 8.0 Disc (https://www.canyon.com/en-de/endurace-cf-sl-disc-8.0/2185.html?dwvar_2185_pv_rahmenfarbe=BK%2FGY&dwvar_2185_pv_rahmengroesse=S&history=1)
• Groupset: Shimano Ultegra R8000 (50/34 chainrings)
• Bottom bracket: Shimano Pressfit BB72 (PF86.5)
• Crankset: Shimano FC-R8000 (Hollowtech II (24 mm spindle)) (https://bike.shimano.com/en-NA/products/components/pdp.P-FC-R8000.html)
Magene PES 515 Info I've found:
• Comes with PES20 crank arms (24 mm steel spindle)
• Uses standard 110 mm 4-bolt BCD
• Magene offers its own QED chainrings, but I’d prefer to reuse my existing Ultegra R8000 chainrings if possible.
My main questions:
1. Is the Magene P515 crankset fully compatible with my bike (PF86.5 BB72, Ultegra R8000, 24 mm spindle)?
2. Can I reuse my existing Ultegra R8000 chainrings, or do I need to buy Magene’s QED chainrings due to BCD differences (as Shimano’s 110 BCD is asymmetrical (ChatGPT said that they are not compatible))?
3. Do I need to replace the bottom bracket, or can I use the existing one (it’s running smoothly)?
4. Did I forget any essential tools or parts?
Tools I already own:
• Allen keys
• Torque wrench (up to 25 Nm)
Tools I think I still need to buy:
• Shimano TL-FC16 (for the preload cap)
• Chainring nut wrench (for removing/reinstalling chainrings)
• Threadlocker (Loctite 243) or grease for chainring bolts
I’m not planning to remove or replace the bottom bracket, so I assume I don’t need tools like the Park Tool BBT-9 (for threaded BBs) or press-fit tools.
Any confirmation or corrections would be much appreciated. Thanks!
- It should be compatible with your bottom bracket and R8000 chainrings.
- You don't need a chainring nut wrench for the Shimano bolts because the nuts are built in to the large chainring.
- You will actually need a 44mm 16 notch bottom bracket wrench like the Park Tool BBT-9 but you'll use it for the Magene spider lock ring. Also, get the wrench style and not a socket/cup style because it has to fit over the spindle. Torque spec is 35-40 Nm but you may have to just guess if your wrench doesn't have a 3/8" square drive hole for a torque wrench.
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How do you take the new preload bolt out?
I got it out with the 10mm hex but can't take the two pieces apart, shouldn't the o-ring break? Should I first unscrew with a 6mm hex and then 10mm? After putting it back in it seems fine but after reading about the old ones slipping out I'm pretty hesitant to ride like this.
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How do you take the new preload bolt out?
I got it out with the 10mm hex but can't take the two pieces apart, shouldn't the o-ring break? Should I first unscrew with a 6mm hex and then 10mm? After putting it back in it seems fine but after reading about the old ones slipping out I'm pretty hesitant to ride like this.
I think the inner part was reverse threaded so you should use a 10mm hex to hold the outer part and a 6mm on the inner part and turn it clockwise (when looking at it from the back).
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Anyone else has creaking with these cranksets? Been riding these for a while now. And had like 3 or 4 different units they all develop creaking over time. Friends have the same issue.
Already tried this multiple times: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kv69g2StmVU
If anyone has an idea, friends don't hear it when riding next to me but I hear it lol
I had some creaks, but they disappeared shortly after, but just did a few hours
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I think the inner part was reverse threaded so you should use a 10mm hex to hold the outer part and a 6mm on the inner part and turn it clockwise (when looking at it from the back).
My thoughts also, but I couldn't get it out for the life of me. It might be easier when the whole bolt is screwed in. I will be replacing the original chainrings to Stone ones in the next two weeks so that's when I will be trying again.
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Can someone just confirm I'm not making a stupid mistake before I place orders for these items?
Bike is a Carbona CFR-696 (branded from Planet-X as "On-One Free Ranger"), which takes a threaded BB. It's running mechanical SRAM Force 1x11. Any stupid mistakes I'm making (maybe related to chainline which I know nothing about)?
I plan to buy:
- Magene P515
- Any BSA BB that takes 24mm spindle (e.g. Shimano Ultegra)
- Any 110BCD narrow-wide ring with asymmetric bolt holes (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/DJC-Chainring-110bcd-Speed-Tiagra/dp/B0BLW3C66N)
- A set of chainring bolts and nuts (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/TruVativ-Steel-Chainring-Bolt-Black/dp/B001GSQO3W)
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Bolts and nuts are included.
The chainring looks like a cheap one from AliExpress, I would go for a known brand either local or on AliExpress
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Does anyone know how to reset the P515? I don't mean the zero calibration...
Mine is measuring 10-15% more than my smart trainer and the Assioma pedals and a full reset is my last hope...
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Just wanted to let the group know that I successfully installed a bikingreen 46/30 chainring (only available on ebay afaik) on this powermeter. Perfect long gran fondo climbing performance without any drawbacks unless you like to go above 80km/h downhill.
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Does anyone know if the TEO carbon cranks and spindle are compatible with the P505 base power meter? Magene has a listing for just the cranks on their website, but no note as to if they're an upgrade path for us with the older base power meter
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Does anyone know if the TEO carbon cranks and spindle are compatible with the P505 base power meter? Magene has a listing for just the cranks on their website, but no note as to if they're an upgrade path for us with the older base power meter
I asked about it on instagram and Magene responded YES. Where did you saw listing for cranks only?
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Does anyone know how to reset the P515? I don't mean the zero calibration...
Mine is measuring 10-15% more than my smart trainer and the Assioma pedals and a full reset is my last hope...
I don't have the P515 but if it's anything like the other Magene power meters you can do a soft reset by plugging in the magnetic charging cable and then holding up another magnet to the status LED. The LED should blink a couple of times to indicate that it worked. I use a fridge magnet to do this but any decently strong magnet should also work.
I don't know if this will fix your issue but this tends to work for me when my power meter becomes unresponsive or starts reporting strange values.
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I asked about it on instagram and Magene responded YES. Where did you saw listing for cranks only?
Its on their website under TEO. Im in the us so maybe that is something.
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I asked about it on instagram and Magene responded YES. Where did you saw listing for cranks only?
Great to hear! Then I'll definitely be buying the cranks when they're in stock and post a quick review. I've been wanting to drop to 165mm anyways
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I have both the new P515 and the TEO carbon version.
Been testing the P515 for a couple of weeks now. Gonna finish filming this weekend and compare data against my smart trainer.
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I have both the new P515 and the TEO carbon version.
Been testing the P515 for a couple of weeks now. Gonna finish filming this weekend and compare data against my smart trainer.
Yo Pat, I know xciting! could you also shed some light on by when they’ll be available? DCRainmaker already informed that Magene will largely withdraw from the intl markets, except for a his product among the new ones. Also, fyi, when asking Magene about availability, I didn’t get a clear answer at all.
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P515 is available on aliexpress and Amazon in US
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DCRainmaker already informed that Magene will largely withdraw from the intl markets, except for a his product among the new ones.
Pretty sure that's only in relation to trainers, not the rest of their product portfolio.
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I have both the new P515 and the TEO carbon version.
Been testing the P515 for a couple of weeks now. Gonna finish filming this weekend and compare data against my smart trainer.
I'd appreciate it if you could include some info on when the TEO version will be stocked on their website :)
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Anyone ever use the P515 PES (or P505 PES) on a fixed gear bike?
My concern is in how it reads/records the backpedal data, ie: using your legs to slow down or control speed instead of a brake. And also if the repeated backpedal force and/or skidding would damage the electronics or even the interface between the spider and crank.
I have a fixed gear conversion bike that I haven't ridden in quite a while, and was thinking it would be nice to have power training date on that bike if I chose to ride it again.
I also use my road bike (with a P505 PES) on a dumb trainer to ride virtually in myWhoosh and thought I could use the fixed gear bike in that capacity as well.
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I'm very satisfied with my P515. I installed it on a Triban RC520. I'm using my 50/34T R7000 chainring on it, but I just received a 46/30T BikinGreen chainring that I'll install next week. I don't have a comparison point on that bike, but I have a powermeter on my Radon e-MTB and values seem consistent, though I forget to calibrate the Magene before every ride... At my very low level, I don't need anything more than that Magene P515. The first initialization is a little bit touchy with the app, connection took forever and I believed for a moment that I had to return it.
I detected one flaw : when the Magene is bluetooth connected to my Coros Pace 2 and my Wahoo Bolt v2, I had short disconnections all the time. But pairing it with the Coros with Ant+ solved the issue totally.
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Do you really need to calibrate it before every ride?
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I detected one flaw : when the Magene is bluetooth connected to my Coros Pace 2 and my Wahoo Bolt v2, I had short disconnections all the time. But pairing it with the Coros with Ant+ solved the issue totally.
I notice that with cadence and the bluetooth connection to MyWhoosh. But the Ant connection is fine. And since it's cadence and only really drops by a little every minute it doesn't affect much.
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Do you really need to calibrate it before every ride?
I think supposedly, if you want totally accurate data you should. I don't. But most outdoor rides I do. If I'm riding indoors I do maybe once a week. Temperature is more consistent indoor. Some outdoor rides I backpedal 5-10 times to reset as well. Especially if the temp fluctuates like morning rides.
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I normally just do the backpedal a bit into the ride when temperatures have normalized somwhat, though i probably forget on as many rides as i do it.
In other news at some point the Magene app got an update and ever since it's been refusing to connect to the meter even though it's still paired.
Either they broke the app or they locked out china specific SKUs (got this from a cheap aliexpress seller so i might be).
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My setup seems like it's wobbling left and right a bit too much as me nor my LBS can't get the FD to not rub on right pedal downstroke. My original Shimano chainrings had a similar issue but more pronounced, so I thought it was an issue with the chainrings. Changed the chainrings to Stone off Ali. Seems like it could be a spider issue?
Anyone had similar issues?
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My setup seems like it's wobbling left and right a bit too much as me nor my LBS can't get the FD to not rub on right pedal downstroke. My original Shimano chainrings had a similar issue but more pronounced, so I thought it was an issue with the chainrings. Changed the chainrings to Stone off Ali. Seems like it could be a spider issue?
Anyone had similar issues?
It is more likely the spindle issue not the spider itself. Ideally you put another spider and confirm.
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I normally just do the backpedal a bit into the ride when temperatures have normalized somwhat, though i probably forget on as many rides as i do it.
In other news at some point the Magene app got an update and ever since it's been refusing to connect to the meter even though it's still paired.
Either they broke the app or they locked out china specific SKUs (got this from a cheap aliexpress seller so i might be).
I had the same issue with the app not connecting anymore.
Turns out, the model I bought was the chinese version (even though I purchased from the EU store).
I was able to connect to the powermeter again using the chinese version of the Magene Utility app.
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Did you guys got any soacers with your crankset?
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Just got a gravel bike with 1x GRX.
I have read that some use the P515/P505 and it works, but can someone explain to me what I need to know to make it work and what the consequences are?
Off the top of my head, I need to buy the PM crankset without chainrings and then get some special chainring that adjusts the chainline?
Can I achieve the same chainline position as stock GRX? If not, what's the difference?
If I currently have room for 48T chainring, is there a way to approximate what chainring size will fit? I'm OK with maxing out on 46T but 44T is a little limiting for certain conditions (keeping up with the fast riders with 2x systems on asphalt sections).
Also I guess Q-factor will be affected, but I can live with that if I go long axle pedals/MTB pedals and a couple washers.
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I was thinking of trying the PES 515 with 165mm cranks. I normally run 170mm. If I end up not liking the 165mm, can I replace the crankset with another brand back to 170mm? Any recommendation for replacement crank arms/spindle?
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You can message magene and buy just the cranks separately, but you can't really use another brand's cranks
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I was thinking of trying the PES 515 with 165mm cranks. I normally run 170mm. If I end up not liking the 165mm, can I replace the crankset with another brand back to 170mm? Any recommendation for replacement crank arms/spindle?
I ended up buying with 167.5mm cranks. I normally run 170mm on every bike I've ever had. I've wondered if I'd like smaller cranks (and I suspect I might), but this way I figure I can't be too far off the mark if I'm wrong.
I just got my PES 515 the other day and I'm waiting on my frame. This is my first crank power meter, as I had pedal power meter before.
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How can I achieve a 2x SRAM flattop compatible setup? I am curious what chainring I could pair with it so that it's compatible. Big bonus if they can be aero.
Thanks
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How can I achieve a 2x SRAM flattop compatible setup? I am curious what chainring I could pair with it so that it's compatible. Big bonus if they can be aero.
Thanks
Look for AXS compatible and 110 BCD 4 bolt.
Pass Quest: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806585752119.html
Stone: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807909803154.html
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My setup seems like it's wobbling left and right a bit too much as me nor my LBS can't get the FD to not rub on right pedal downstroke. My original Shimano chainrings had a similar issue but more pronounced, so I thought it was an issue with the chainrings. Changed the chainrings to Stone off Ali. Seems like it could be a spider issue?
Anyone had similar issues?
I have this on my 505. Tested multiple chainrings and it's the spider itself that's out of alignment. Try to put the big chainring in place on the spider without the bolts, and see if lays flat on the spider. With mine there's always a slight gap somewhere.
I've since gone 1x so this is not a big deal for me now but I always thought mine got bent due to a crash or something. Guess it was like that from the factory.
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I normally just do the backpedal a bit into the ride when temperatures have normalized somwhat, though i probably forget on as many rides as i do it.
In other news at some point the Magene app got an update and ever since it's been refusing to connect to the meter even though it's still paired.
Either they broke the app or they locked out china specific SKUs (got this from a cheap aliexpress seller so i might be).
I had the same issue with the app not connecting anymore.
Turns out, the model I bought was the chinese version (even though I purchased from the EU store).
I was able to connect to the powermeter again using the chinese version of the Magene Utility app.
It happened to me yesterday too. Mine is definitely Chinese, and after installing the old app, it worked. Anyway, I sent an email to Magene, and they seem to be taking this seriously.
We are sorry for your bad experience with our product.
We have found through the SN you provided that your device is a Chinese version rather than an overseas version. The Chinese version of the device cannot be activated and used overseas,
Please contact the seller to get your warranty. And please inform the seller that you already contacted Magene Support. Sorry for the inconvenience caused by our product.
Could you kindly share the shopping website where you purchased your device? If possible, please provide us with the purchase link or details of the purchase channel. This information will help us determine if we can offer any assistance.
Thanks for your cooperation in advance.
I have two questions:
If I have problems with the power meter, can I contact Magene or just the seller (AliExpress has currently closed the seller's store)?
Do you think Magene can remotely block the power meter?
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dont know if its a goof idea to buy this from aliexpress rather than the magene site, it was already a pretty slow delivery and now its stuck in customs which seems to be somewhat common from the reviews
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dont know if its a goof idea to buy this from aliexpress rather than the magene site, it was already a pretty slow delivery and now its stuck in customs which seems to be somewhat common from the reviews
If nothing changed recently, then Magene website shop is only for US market. Europe etc. need to buy from Alix
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I have two questions:
If I have problems with the power meter, can I contact Magene or just the seller (AliExpress has currently closed the seller's store)?
Do you think Magene can remotely block the power meter?
Most likely they will just tell you that they will not support the product cause you bought it in an unsupported region, then attempt to go after the seller who sold it.
If nothing changed recently, then Magene website shop is only for US market. Europe etc. need to buy from Alix
I mean as long as you buy from the official Magene store on Aliexpress it should be fine,
the reason me and others ended up with china-only SKUs is because other sellers were cheaper and/or already in the EU and thus tax free.
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I put my Magene P505 3 bolt spider on my T47 internal BB gravel frameset. I had to use 4mm of spacers to clear the BB shell. Not a big deal for 1x, but definitely could be an issue with 2x.
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Anyone got any reports on the TEO P515 carbon version yet? I'm surprised to see it is only available with 29mm spindle on their UK website;
https://uk.magene.com/gb/power-meters/238-teo-p515-power-meter-set.html
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great price right now, by far the best price so long at official magene shop ~€250
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Put in an order for the TEO power meter set at 160mm for $400 before tax, $440 after tax with 11.11 and PayPal discounts. Going to sell off my P505 at 170mm or figure out how to retrofit it onto my MtB. Only option I've found so far are these 30t-46t chainrings
https://www.ebay.com/itm/335957415977
but I'd have to run them only in the smaller ring which means $100 for a new set every couple thousand miles which is hard to accept. Might just sell it off and get an x cadey with a smaller diameter bolt pattern to get down to 30t
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I got my p515 today.
It was sold as version 3 but how can I verify the version of the device I got?
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I got my p515 today.
It was sold as version 3 but how can I verify the version of the device I got?
I believe the P515 is 625g in weight compared to the P505 which was 650g in weight (170mm crank).
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Can any crank be put with the P515 ? I'm currently using the original cranks of my R7000 but they're in 175mm and I'd like to try 165mm.
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Can any crank be put with the P515 ? I'm currently using the original cranks of my R7000 but they're in 175mm and I'd like to try 165mm.
You cannot buy only the powermeter, it always comes with the cranks so just choose the 165mm. You can additionally choose to buy their chainrings or keep your Shimano chainrings, they do fit but don't look the prettiest.
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You cannot buy only the powermeter, it always comes with the cranks so just choose the 165mm. You can additionally choose to buy their chainrings or keep your Shimano chainrings, they do fit but don't look the prettiest.
I'm dumb, you're right, I bought it with 175mm cranks, to have the same than the old cranks. I'm stuck with those 175mm cranks, right ?
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I'm dumb, you're right, I bought it with 175mm cranks, to have the same than the old cranks. I'm stuck with those 175mm cranks, right ?
Try contacting Magene directly to try and buy the shorter cranks. I don't think any other cranks fit the spider.
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I had the p505 and after that experience, I will not buy Magene again. My 2 issues are , proprietary interface, and narrow crankarm design which contacts the front derailleur arm. They failed to admit the latter with the p505 and have not fixed this with the p515 but now include the attached warning. They suggest the solution is either adjust the FD (which means you can shift properly) or try a new crank (which you can't because of the proprietary interface).
There are many carbon crank + PM options now for a similar if not cheaper price and they all use standardized interfaces ( 3 bolt, 8 bolt, Easton) and can come out lighter.
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Does anyone know if the L/R balance is reliable? Thinking of getting a left side only assioma pro mx for my gravel bike, since the values I get on L/R from the P515 is almost always 50/50. But if the data is not good then I might reconsider.
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Does anyone know if the L/R balance is reliable? Thinking of getting a left side only assioma pro mx for my gravel bike, since the values I get on L/R from the P515 is almost always 50/50. But if the data is not good then I might reconsider.
No - no spider power meter can provide accurate L/R balance data - it is inherent in the design. Spider PMs do it by estimating from push and pull, but it doesn't truly know left from right.
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Just got a gravel bike with 1x GRX.
I have read that some use the P515/P505 and it works, but can someone explain to me what I need to know to make it work and what the consequences are?
Off the top of my head, I need to buy the PM crankset without chainrings and then get some special chainring that adjusts the chainline?
Can I achieve the same chainline position as stock GRX? If not, what's the difference?
If I currently have room for 48T chainring, is there a way to approximate what chainring size will fit? I'm OK with maxing out on 46T but 44T is a little limiting for certain conditions (keeping up with the fast riders with 2x systems on asphalt sections).
Also I guess Q-factor will be affected, but I can live with that if I go long axle pedals/MTB pedals and a couple washers.
How did it turn out for you? I also want to install a Grx 1x drivetrain and am currently looking for a suitable chainring. What did you use?
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No - no spider power meter can provide accurate L/R balance data - it is inherent in the design. Spider PMs do it by estimating from push and pull, but it doesn't truly know left from right.
Anecdotally, it seems to be accurate enough for me. I checked the balance and it said I had a significant discrepancy. When I focused on my pedaling style, I noticed it was totally right, and now I work on correcting it. Totally usable for what I think most people want balance readings for. I have a PES 505, and I picked a TEO Magene spider over the 715 pedal power meters for an upgrade. True L/R readings aren't worth it due to the inconvenience of adding another item to charge
As is, I have a bike computer, radar light, bike light, di2, a spider power meter, my bone conducting earbuds, my phone, my heart rate monitor, and my speed sensor to manage. I'm not adding another item to charge unless I absolutely need it
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Kind of a stupid question, but when you zero offset by pedaling backwards 5 times doesn't the fact that you apply pressure on the pedals messes up with the zeroing ?
For crank based PM's you are not supposed to mess with them while you perform a zero offset.
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How did it turn out for you? I also want to install a Grx 1x drivetrain and am currently looking for a suitable chainring. What did you use?
I never got around to doing it, winter came fast. I'm currently considering just getting SPD power meter pedals instead, but we'll see.
Anyway, I don't have the answer but my take is this:
Chainring intended for 1x road should work.
The chainline will be affected, but to the better.
Problem is chainring clearance to the chainstay. If you're gonna be on 42T, probably not a problem. If you're planning to run 46-48T, probably a problem.
In any case, I'd buy some spacers for the spindle to have on hand, might be needed between the crank and BB regardless, but can also be used to adjust a little bit.
Example of Aliex listing with pictures where a Magene PM crank is used: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009252104058.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.4.4fd6371bTsebpe&aem_p4p_detail=202512020005401574748892120780000091180&algo_pvid=ca8d5c5a-3372-4415-8743-d3173df0cfa6&algo_exp_id=ca8d5c5a-3372-4415-8743-d3173df0cfa6-3&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2249%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21SEK%21290.69%21133.72%21%21%21212.06%2197.55%21%40210388c917646627401568198e72ef%2112000048481322098%21sea%21SE%21190294757%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3Af670ceff%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=39WJeyvIHf8t&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009252104058%7C_p_origin_prod%3A&search_p4p_id=202512020005401574748892120780000091180_1
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Anybody tried this on a Trek Domane SL6 Gen4. I have read about small clearance but wonder if that causes any problems. Especially when putting large power into the pedals.
This has T47 cranks but a 105 R7100 crankset with 175 mm arms
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Try contacting Magene directly to try and buy the shorter cranks. I don't think any other cranks fit the spider.
It's 55$ + 20$ of shipping, + customs. Not sure it's worth it.
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As I read about region locks on Magene products: does this also apply on powermeters?
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As I read about region locks on Magene products: does this also apply on powermeters?
Mine has worked perfect since install 3 weeks ago. Install and setup went great and has worked perfectly.
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Kind of a stupid question, but when you zero offset by pedaling backwards 5 times doesn't the fact that you apply pressure on the pedals messes up with the zeroing ?
For crank based PM's you are not supposed to mess with them while you perform a zero offset.
Not a stupid question at all, I've wondered the same thing. Most power meters and headunits that allow you to zero offset mention that you shouldn't even be clipped in. When I do it, I tend to do it by hand so I'm not clipped in. But, even still, I've found myself wondering if it "zeroes" while I'm still spinning it or if it zeros immediately after I stop spinning it, or what? I have no idea. If you find an answer, please share!
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Is it possible to rename the PM in the app?
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Managed to cross thread the big aluminum retaining bolt. Anyone knows how could get one easy/cheap from inside the EU?
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It was $30 shipped to US to replace the faulty bolt on my P505. I'd think it would be similar.
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Managed to cross thread the big aluminum retaining bolt. Anyone knows how could get one easy/cheap from inside the EU?
I was in a similar situation. Put in a plastic shimano "bolt". No issues with it at all
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It was $30 shipped to US to replace the faulty bolt on my P505. I'd think it would be similar.
I got an answer from Magene, they can send one for 35$
I was in a similar situation. Put in a plastic shimano "bolt". No issues with it at all
Wait, they are interchangeable with Shimano's preload bolt? if they are compatible the only thing i can see go wrong is the fact that for Magene you are supposed to torque the bolt to over 10Nm
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Wait, they are interchangeable with Shimano's preload bolt? if they are compatible the only thing i can see go wrong is the fact that for Magene you are supposed to torque the bolt to over 10Nm
Magene uses only one bolt for tightening the crank arm to the axle (vs. two bolts Shimano).
In the beginning with the P505 the preload bolt was different, "simple" Shimano one piece design.
But quite some users lost the preload bolt and then the crank became loose.
Since then, Magene changed the preload bolt to the two piece design and I would strongly recommend to use it as I don't believe a one piece Shimano preload bolt will reliably fix the crank to the axle.
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Magene uses only one bolt for tightening the crank arm to the axle (vs. two bolts Shimano).
In the beginning with the P505 the preload bolt was different, "simple" Shimano one piece design.
But quite some users lost the preload bolt and then the crank became loose.
Since then, Magene changed the preload bolt to the two piece design and I would strongly recommend to use it as I don't believe a one piece Shimano preload bolt will reliably fix the crank to the axle.
Do you know if it's possible to buy this new bolt anywhere for users with the old system?
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I was in a similar situation. Put in a plastic shimano "bolt". No issues with it at all
I did that for a local race when the bolt got lost the day before the race.
The plastic bolt fits, but its not a long term or ideal solution. It doesn't bear the load the same way as the magene bolt. Someone reported the crankshaft splines getting worn down and not staying in place after using the plastic bolt because it allows flex and movement in that area.
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Do you know if it's possible to buy this new bolt anywhere for users with the old system?
I can not remember how I got my replacement bolt, through the AliExpress seller or from Magene directly.
After I lost the first version preload bolt, I ordered two pieces of the new two piece design, to have one spare just in case.
In the P505 thread there are multiple users that have shared how to get replacement through AliExpress sellers, Magene directly or even through Panda Podium.
Example here
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4569.msg101586.html#msg101586 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4569.msg101586.html#msg101586)
I am not sure if there are local sources, I guess most people have received replacement from Asia (incl. waiting time).
I remember, that I used an aluminum preload bolt from AliExpress (Shimano style fits) in the meantime while waiting for the Magene part.
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Wait, they are interchangeable with Shimano's preload bolt? if they are compatible the only thing i can see go wrong is the fact that for Magene you are supposed to torque the bolt to over 10Nm
Yeap. I put some blue loctite on the single bolt threads and haven't had an issue on either of my bikes with a 505. I won't speak for anybody else, bit I'm not sure how you wouldn't feel a loose crank arm before it falls off.
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I saw that on aliexpress there are aluminum mounting bolts, maybe it's right for you https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005067241357.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c33IZJxn)
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Hi everyone,
Saw another very usefully written question, so ripping off the formatting for mine if that’s ok to keep things clear!
Basically I’d like to confirm the compatibility of the Magene P515 powermeter crankset with my current bike setup and make sure I have all necessary tools and components before starting the installation.
I want to be sure that everything is compatible before I order it.
My current bike setup:
* Bike: Specialized SL7 (https://www.specializedconceptstore.co.uk/shop/bikes/road/2024-tarmac-sl7-sport-shimano-105-430053/option/)
* Groupset: Shimano 105 12 Speed
* Bottom bracket: Shimano Threaded BSA BB (I think 68mm BB shell width on frame)
* Crankset: Shimano 105 12 Speed (24 mm spindle, 52/36 chainrings front)
* Front Derailleur: Current Shimano 105, Braze-on, but I have a SRAM RED eTAP AXS braze-on derailleur that I’d like to use going forwards - I’ve heard that there can be some issues with the P515 fitting with some derailleurs?
Magene PES 515 Info I've found:
* Comes with PES20 crank arms (24 mm steel spindle)
* Uses standard 110 mm 4-bolt BCD
* I’d like to use my current 105 52/36 110 BCD chain rings until they’re worn out, will these fit?
My main questions:
1. Is the Magene P515 crankset fully compatible with my bike (Shimano Threaded BSA BB, 105 110 BCD)?
2. Can I reuse my existing 105 chainrings?
3. Can I use the existing BB?
4. Do I need any spacers external to the BB to space the cranks?
5. Are there any proprietary tools or parts required?
Any confirmation or corrections would be much appreciated. Thanks!
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It's nice to read such clear questions, I'll try to answer quickly:
1. Yes, the Magene P515 crankset is fully compatible.
2. Yes, absolutely.
3. Yes, absolutely. It would have been a problem if I had chosen the TEO instead of the P515.
4. Are there spacers included in the package? It depends on the q-factor, but generally not.
5. No, you just need hex wrenches and a torque wrench.
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Perfect! Thanks for the clear and quick reply!
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Perfect! Thanks for the clear and quick reply!
You need a BB tool that can go over the spindle to tighten the lockring
(https://manuals.plus/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/Magene-P515-Power-Meter-Set-fig-1.png)
Can be had for €5 on AliExpress, and don’t bother with one that has the square cutout for a torque spanner, I don’t think it’s needed.
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I forgot, that wrench isn't included in the package https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005475463345.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3FzexrJ)
Tighten it as much as you can, without worrying about the torque.
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This reminds me, could someone please take top down photos of both sides of the tool? I've lost kine and will have to make a replacement eventually.
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I've purchased some months ago a p515, I wanted to install it today. I experience play in installing the spider, even with fully tightening the lock ring. Is this normal?
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I've purchased some months ago a p515, I wanted to install it today. I experience play in installing the spider, even with fully tightening the lock ring. Is this normal?
nope, that's definitely not normal. I would send that video to the support. They should have a solution which, if i have to guess, is a new crank arm.
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Thanks for your feedback. I contacted support.
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FYI i was in contact with Magene, asking me to send a video of assembling the crank.
I think the issue is the thread for the lock ring. It seems it is not finished properly and the locking can't go further and leaves a gap, especially compared to an image found here https://www.instagram.com/p/DBvHNNtvnd0/?img_index=3
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Did anyone else got a new firmware version? I updated mine yesterday after connecting it to the app.
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With my chinese SKU i was never offered any updates in the last working version of Magene Utility, though i just checked with the chinese version and it offered me v0.118
Attached a machine translated version of the patchnotes.
Guess i'll update and see what happens.
Is this the same version you got?
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Seems like Magene have revised the crankset on the PES P515 unit that's on display at the Shanghai bike show.
The shaping of the arms seems ever so slightly different but more importantly it now appears to attach from the drive side with a SRAM style center bolt right into the axle.
https://youtu.be/st7jCNtgBwo?t=1045
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Seems like Magene have revised the crankset on the PES P515 unit that's on display at the Shanghai bike show.
The shaping of the arms seems ever so slightly different but more importantly it now appears to attach from the drive side with a SRAM style center bolt right into the axle.
https://youtu.be/st7jCNtgBwo?t=1045
Maybe that would fix the sqeauking issue that some customers(me included) have. If thats the case i hope i can just contact them to sell me the new crankarms to fix the issue.
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Seems like Magene have revised the crankset on the PES P515 unit that's on display at the Shanghai bike show.
The shaping of the arms seems ever so slightly different but more importantly it now appears to attach from the drive side with a SRAM style center bolt right into the axle.
https://youtu.be/st7jCNtgBwo?t=1045
Yeah,2027 ver is attach from the drive side with a sram style center bolt right into the axle.
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Maybe that would fix the sqeauking issue that some customers(me included) have. If thats the case i hope i can just contact them to sell me the new crankarms to fix the issue.
Interested to hear you (and others maybe?) have this issue too. I have installed and reinstalled the cranks 3 times now, cant seem to get rid of the creak. I have the p505 base version on my gravel bike and it is silent.
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I run these on 3 bikes, myself 170mm and wife 2 x 165mm. Zero issues.
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I run these on 3 bikes, myself 170mm and wife 2 x 165mm. Zero issues.
The creaking usually comes from other components, like chainring bolts and such. The only downside of the P505 Base is the pinch bolt, which rusts. And I have no idea what size that is, because I tried to measure it and it’s not a standard M bolt.
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The creaking usually comes from other components, like chainring bolts and such. The only downside of the P505 Base is the pinch bolt, which rusts. And I have no idea what size that is, because I tried to measure it and it’s not a standard M bolt.
the last time I had creaking was from pedal spindle. I also find that the creaking from the BB area, is nearly never a BB itself.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YmvCSDVaPQ
It's gplama approved now, he did however do the testing with an upcoming v0.119 firmware that per the video should be out by end of june.
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I just got my P515 recently, which I picked up for only about CAD $260 during the June sale (without chainrings).
I'm using a 1x oval chainring and had to adjust the slope from 100% to 97% after comparing the 3-second power readings with my Saris H3+ smart trainer.
Is anyone else using the P515 with a single-chainring setup? How have you found the power accuracy, especially when compared to using a traditional round chainring?
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the last time I had creaking was from pedal spindle. I also find that the creaking from the BB area, is nearly never a BB itself.
What did you do about the creaking from pedal spindals?
TIA
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I'm using a 1x oval chainring and had to adjust the slope from 100% to 97% after comparing the 3-second power readings with my Saris H3+ smart trainer.
The Magene is measuring before the drivetrain and the Saris is measuring after it. A small offset would be expected anyway, but what makes you think your trainer is more accurate?
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The Magene is measuring before the drivetrain and the Saris is measuring after it. A small offset would be expected anyway, but what makes you think your trainer is more accurate?
Hey, I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to this stuff, but your question is valid and it made me think about it as well.
To clarify, I wasn't trying to say that my smart trainer is more accurate in terms of absolute power numbers. Looking back, I can see how that may have been implied in my post, so sorry for not being clearer.
I did some research and came across this article from Power Meter City regarding power meters and oval chainrings:
https://powermetercity.com/2016/07/24/power-meters-oval-chainrings/
Here's the concern: most power meters make the assumption that your pedaling velocity is constant. In other words, power meters assume that you turn the pedals at a steady speed throughout each pedal stroke revolution. The problem is that oval chainrings cause your crank velocity to change during each pedal stroke, as they limit the time spent in the dead spot and lengthen the time spent in the power phase.
Indeed, most studies conclude that because of the change in crank velocity, oval rings do influence the accuracy of power meters. More specifically, they can cause power numbers to be inflated. The more non-round the chainring is, the greater the impact on accuracy. Studies suggest you can expect an increase in power readings of anywhere from 1% to 4%.
Assuming that statement is correct, my front chainring is oval, which could explain the change in crank velocity during each pedal stroke. Since the power meter is mounted at the crank, I can see how it might report slightly higher readings compared to my smart trainer.
Again, I'm no expert, but that explanation seems reasonable to me. That said, I'm not too concerned about a small difference between the two devices unless the discrepancy becomes significant.
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That oval chainring inaccuracy is not at all universal, as the article says, it really only applies to power meters which measure cadence once per revolution and assume the angular velocity of your pedalstroke is constant, those power meters should be considered garbage and avoided. Even if you don't use oval chainrings, the angular velocity of your pedal stroke is never constant. It spikes and dips on every revolution.
This is a long-solved problem, a proper power meter measures angular velocity continuously with a gyroscope and/or accelorometer and uses an up to date force and power measurement on every sample. Usually the sample rate is in the hundreds, maybe even thousands per second. Such fine granularity effectively eliminates any potential inaccuracy that would arise from unexpected pedalling dynamics.
Magene and pretty much every spider power meter on the market should have no problem with this. 2-3% of drivetrain loss is about what would normally be expected. Though there is the question of if the trainer is attempting to take that into account in any way or not and if yes, how much.
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That oval chainring inaccuracy is not at all universal, as the article says, it really only applies to power meters which measure cadence once per revolution and assume the angular velocity of your pedalstroke is constant, those power meters should be considered garbage and avoided. Even if you don't use oval chainrings, the angular velocity of your pedal stroke is never constant. It spikes and dips on every revolution.
This is a long-solved problem, a proper power meter measures angular velocity continuously with a gyroscope and/or accelorometer and uses an up to date force and power measurement on every sample. Usually the sample rate is in the hundreds, maybe even thousands per second. Such fine granularity effectively eliminates any potential inaccuracy that would arise from unexpected pedalling dynamics.
Magene and pretty much every spider power meter on the market should have no problem with this. 2-3% of drivetrain loss is about what would normally be expected. Though there is the question of if the trainer is attempting to take that into account in any way or not and if yes, how much.
Thanks for your valuable insights! This is enough to assure me that I don't have to worry about using a round or oval chainrings with my P515.
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Has anyone successfully removed the "PES" logo from the crank arms? I've just received my power meter and I'm wondering if it's possible to give it that clean look.
Anyone know if there's a way to remove the logo but keep the existing finish?
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Has anyone successfully removed the "PES" logo from the crank arms?
In my language (Czech), it means "a dog". You don’t want to have "a dog" writtten on your crankarms?? ;D ;D
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In my language (Czech), it means "a dog". You don’t want to have "a dog" writtten on your crankarms?? ;D ;D
nero show approved
Don't think you can remove it without taking the entire anodizing off, seems to be laser etched.
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i'm selling my P505 165mm magene powermeter at 190euro (Italy) brand new
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Firmware 0.119 is out now, only 'optimized user experience' in the patch notes.
(screenshot machine translated from chinese app)
This should be the version gplama tested with.
Edit:
Seeing unexplainable power spikes on the first ride post update, just riding along at ~180w and it suddenly reports 700-1000w for three seconds before dropping back down.
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Firmware 0.119 is out now, only 'optimized user experience' in the patch notes.
(screenshot machine translated from chinese app)
This should be the version gplama tested with.
Edit:
Seeing unexplainable power spikes on the first ride post update, just riding along at ~180w and it suddenly reports 700-1000w for three seconds before dropping back down.
I updated mine last weekend and data is normal so far, at least in my case.
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I've built up a new bike this year, using a Magene Teo crank & P515. I'm trying to decide if the power readings are inflated however. My previous bike was a left side only 4iiii power meter, and showed what I would expect for my output during any given situation. The Magene though seems to be quite a bit higher (20-50% depending). I'd love to think it's me being stronger, but I'm def not ;)
Is there a calibration or other tuning I should look into?
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I've built up a new bike this year, using a Magene Teo crank & P515. I'm trying to decide if the power readings are inflated however. My previous bike was a left side only 4iiii power meter, and showed what I would expect for my output during any given situation. The Magene though seems to be quite a bit higher (20-50% depending). I'd love to think it's me being stronger, but I'm def not ;)
Is there a calibration or other tuning I should look into?
Without comparing to a trainer or a friends power pedals, it's really hard to say. My P515 is accurate (+/- 1% with both my old Stages left side and with my Kickr, so I'd say it's good).
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Without comparing to a trainer or a friends power pedals, it's really hard to say. My P515 is accurate (+/- 1% with both my old Stages left side and with my Kickr, so I'd say it's good).
My old 4iiii was a refurb unit. I'm going to go on assuming the Magene is fine, and the 4iiii was always reading low thus I'm stronger than I thought 8)
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I've built up a new bike this year, using a Magene Teo crank & P515. I'm trying to decide if the power readings are inflated however. My previous bike was a left side only 4iiii power meter, and showed what I would expect for my output during any given situation. The Magene though seems to be quite a bit higher (20-50% depending). I'd love to think it's me being stronger, but I'm def not ;)
Is there a calibration or other tuning I should look into?
My first ride mine reported high at an average of about 300w. I ran the calibration in the app. Now my rides average a much more believable 200w.
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I updated mine last weekend and data is normal so far, at least in my case.
My next rides data looked a lot more believable, had calibrated it a couple times before the ride,
hard to verify but chances are my mistake was not calibrating right after the update.
Unfortunately i can't get much seat time in right now due to lingering knee issues flaring up again.
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Hi, I've had the PES 515 for several months and I've never had any problems (some noise every now and then, like everyone I think...) yesterday I disassembled the PES 515 because I wanted to fit a new chain ring.....now the problem is that the double preload bolt is stuck together and by squeezing the rubber ring it no longer enters the thread of the crankset.....the only thing I can do is reassemble it without the rubber ring . What can I do?
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Hi, I've had the PES 515 for several months and I've never had any problems (some noise every now and then, like everyone I think...) yesterday I disassembled the PES 515 because I wanted to fit a new chain ring.....now the problem is that the double preload bolt is stuck together and by squeezing the rubber ring it no longer enters the thread of the crankset.....the only thing I can do is reassemble it without the rubber ring . What can I do?
disassemble the preload bolt with a 6 and 10mm hex. Then softly tighten it with the rubber reinstalled. This worked for me.
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So, i think you need to install the rubber ring first of all. Then get the manual and follow the instruction in the reverse order i think you should be fine :) I hope you didn't ruin the threads :)
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Do you have any tricks to help me do this? They seem to be welded together, I can't open them. :-X
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I have the same issue :(
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I have the same issue :(
If you have the same problem as me, I can tell you that I left the nut soaked in Svitol all night, then I placed the largest wrench (10 hex) on the floor, while with the small one (6 hex) I started to apply constant pressure for a few minutes before getting pissed off and pushing hard.
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Anyway, before installing this lock ring, did you apply any grease to the thread? I applied some white grease purchased from AliExpress
Maybe this is the problem? Shouldn't you put anything on?
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Did anybode found a solution against the creaking?
Reassenbled, greased etc several Times without real Changes..
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Did anybode found a solution against the creaking?
Reassenbled, greased etc several Times without real Changes..
Mine developed a horrific creak - turns out that one of the chainring bolts had snapped, think they are extremely soft.
Replace and retorque the bolt and see if that improves things?
Default for creaks is complete dissassembly and light touch of grease everywhere that parts meet, tends to be the cheapest and most successful outcome, even if it sometimes leaves me not knowing which bit was creaking!
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Has anyone used this powermeter with a gravel build? I have a PES 515 from my previous roadbike and am planning to build up a gravel bike with either shimano or sram one by. Has anyone done that or does it not work in regards to the chainline?
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Has anyone used this powermeter with a gravel build? I have a PES 515 from my previous roadbike and am planning to build up a gravel bike with either shimano or sram one by. Has anyone done that or does it not work in regards to the chainline?
A colleague of mine is using it with an Ultegra/Deore 1x12 build with a Pass Quest chainring, no issues at all.
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Has anyone used this powermeter with a gravel build? I have a PES 515 from my previous roadbike and am planning to build up a gravel bike with either shimano or sram one by. Has anyone done that or does it not work in regards to the chainline?
Yes I’m using it on 1x GRX. It works. Idk if it works better or worse than normal chainline though. Should, it anything, be an improvement but that depends on where on the cassette you usually are. Also can be tight toward the chainstay depending on the bike itself and chainring size.
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Has anyone used this powermeter with a gravel build? I have a PES 515 from my previous roadbike and am planning to build up a gravel bike with either shimano or sram one by. Has anyone done that or does it not work in regards to the chainline?
Got mine on my BXT 135 with Ltwoo eGR.
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Mine developed a horrific creak - turns out that one of the chainring bolts had snapped, think they are extremely soft.
Replace and retorque the bolt and see if that improves things?
Default for creaks is complete dissassembly and light touch of grease everywhere that parts meet, tends to be the cheapest and most successful outcome, even if it sometimes leaves me not knowing which bit was creaking!
same here, the creaking is crazy. I already replaced the chainring-Screws, cleaned everything and greased it. No changes.
I am pretty sure it is because of the size difference between the mount and the spider.
and imo the creaking comes either from
lockring and spider is "rubbing" or
spider and mount is "rubbing".
tried 2 different type of grease already.
I would say it is a little quieter than before, but tbh i'm slowly going crazy.
So it could be imagination.
btw: Geoid PM500 seems to have the same issue.
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Mine developed a horrific creak - turns out that one of the chainring bolts had snapped, think they are extremely soft.
Replace and retorque the bolt and see if that improves things?
Default for creaks is complete dissassembly and light touch of grease everywhere that parts meet, tends to be the cheapest and most successful outcome, even if it sometimes leaves me not knowing which bit was creaking!
what screws did you use out of curiosity?
i am replacing the stock shimano chainrings with aftermarket ones that use those bolts and reading reviews on the bolts many people complain the aluminium ones are too weak
i've also noticed fitting the geoid pm500 over the shimano big rings female nuts (dont laugh) takes a while of rocking the chainring back and forth, indicating poor tolerance in one of them, at least in my case
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Does anyone know of stores that ship to EU that won't get me hit with surprise taxes/tolls on Magene TEO? I'm seeing some on Lordgun but they're out of 165. Did anyone order from PandaPodium or Gambacicli?
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Does anyone know of stores that ship to EU that won't get me hit with surprise taxes/tolls on Magene TEO? I'm seeing some on Lordgun but they're out of 165. Did anyone order from PandaPodium or Gambacicli?
I ordered from https://de.magene.com and there were no extra charges and shipping was quick.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/DbhFOp-DlbZ/?img_index=5 (https://www.instagram.com/p/DbhFOp-DlbZ/?img_index=5)
Looks very much like a Magene sticker. Any info on whether it’s a rebranded TEO or a different crank all together?
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same here, the creaking is crazy. I already replaced the chainring-Screws, cleaned everything and greased it. No changes.
I am pretty sure it is because of the size difference between the mount and the spider.
and imo the creaking comes either from
lockring and spider is "rubbing" or
spider and mount is "rubbing".
tried 2 different type of grease already.
I would say it is a little quieter than before, but tbh i'm slowly going crazy.
So it could be imagination.
btw: Geoid PM500 seems to have the same issue.
Lmao. I am just coming to terms with this and realizing the crazy, crazy creaking I have is likely my Magene P515 crank. It was just a little creak last 2 weeks, but this weekend it was INSANE. I was avoiding taking it apart because I was nervous about running into an issue putting it back together. I am probably going to do it in the next couple of days.
But, also, I have a Geoid PM500 I just installed on another bike that I haven't finished. Oh boy. Creak city there, too?!
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Lmao. I am just coming to terms with this and realizing the crazy, crazy creaking I have is likely my Magene P515 crank. It was just a little creak last 2 weeks, but this weekend it was INSANE. I was avoiding taking it apart because I was nervous about running into an issue putting it back together. I am probably going to do it in the next couple of days.
But, also, I have a Geoid PM500 I just installed on another bike that I haven't finished. Oh boy. Creak city there, too?!
Yup, same here on the pm500. interfaces and screws all greased, torqued exactly to spec, shimano chainrings. more of a click than a squeak but annoying. not sure where to go next
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Creaking is coming from the spider to the crank attachment. Regreasing may work but it's a longshot ditched 3 powermeters because of this reason. :(
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Creaking is coming from the spider to the crank attachment. Regreasing may work but it's a longshot ditched 3 powermeters because of this reason. :(
after the problem I had (previous page) I reassembled everything but I didn't tighten the 6mm nut as per the manual and now I have crazy creaking noises
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Hi everyone,
Does anyone know where I can get replacement rubber rings for the crankbolt?
Thanks :-*
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Hi everyone,
Does anyone know where I can get replacement rubber rings for the crankbolt?
Thanks :-*
You’ve ran out of the ones that were provided? Afaik there were 3 in the box.
I guess you can just buy a rubber o-ring in the correct size, should work.
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I am running the P515 with Alugear Chainrings with the Alugear nuts to attach and I do not have any problems with noise.