Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: kubackje on June 11, 2025, 05:45:36 PM
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So pulled a trigger on this setup. Waiting for them to be delivered.
Bigrock carbon crankset that I will pair with xcadey power meter and my stone chainrings (same as cybrei on the photo).
I think those are the best looking crankset on the market right now. What I also really like is the solid construction of the spindle. I am willing to sacrifice some weight savings for that. Cranksets alone are around 350g. Another thing I like is more classic q factor of 145mm (146mm measured and confirmed by one of the users here). Most of those Chinese carbon cranks are +150mm.
I paid 190$ for the cransket and 220$ for the power meter with the use of AliExpress coupons.
Feel free to discuss and post your experience with those cransets.
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Looks good and competitive weight with power meter. Is it old SRAM 3-bolt for the spider?
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look forward to your review, been seeing them a lot on XHS but there were comments on the tightness of the axle and the need for spaces for it to work on some frames. but the price and specs are really tempting.
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Thanks for making the thread here :)
I also have this crankset and I had to experiment a bit with the spacers on my Aethos, will check what I put on and report here…
Have you measured the Q factor? They officially say it’s 140mm, which sounds a bit low, so not sure I can believe that. But the cranks feel a bit narrower, or maybe it’s the fact that the crankarms are pretty straight. I have pronating feet and have a feeling that I hit these crankarms with my ankles much more than on Sram Dub cranksets… (I actualy prefer wider Q factor, so might have issues with these in the long run if they really are narrow)
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Advertised q factor is 145mm, but in the Lexon thread Verti reported that he measured it at 146mm. The spindle length is 92mm. When they arrive I will install, test and report it here. I have their handlebarb and it's top quality so pretty sure cranksets will be good. Joe from Panda Podium likes this brand so that gives me confidence.
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Where did you see it advertised as 145mm? I only saw this specs in the aliexpress seller's pics, but with 140mm
(https://ae-pic-a1.aliexpress-media.com/kf/S0f4c64c5fdc148f687ffdabc49d027eeB.jpg_960x960q75.jpg_.avif)
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just quickly install the left crank arm rotated 180 degrees and measure outside to outside distance between the crank arms. q-factor mystery solved.
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lol, stupid me, you are right haha
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Where did you see it advertised as 145mm? I only saw this specs in the aliexpress seller's pics, but with 140mm
(https://ae-pic-a1.aliexpress-media.com/kf/S0f4c64c5fdc148f687ffdabc49d027eeB.jpg_960x960q75.jpg_.avif)
This was written in lexon thread. Those AliExpress auctions are a mess. I also remember seeing 140 and now when I enter this auctions it says 146mm so they corrected it.
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I have a feeling that my spider is not 100% straight and the chainrings "wobble" a bit... I planned to replace it with a PM anyway but bought the new Favero pedals, so now I am stuck with it, so most likely have to find a replacement (would not mind a nicer one, but haven't seen any spider for 3 bolt that would look nice with Shimano rings)
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Looks good and competitive weight with power meter. Is it old SRAM 3-bolt for the spider?
Yes. I looked at these as I have a couple Quarq's but they're only 35g or so lighter than Force/Quarq carbon arms which are usually available for under $100 usd used. The 165's are hard to find, but they're out there. So unless you need 160's its a lot of coin for an unproven crank.
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Yes. I looked at these as I have a couple Quarq's but they're only 35g or so lighter than Force/Quarq carbon arms which are usually available for under $100 usd used. The 165's are hard to find, but they're out there. So unless you need 160's its a lot of coin for an unproven crank.
they're 108g lighter if you're comparing apples for apples (24mm Ti spindle vs 24mm steel GXP).
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Yeah, stand corrected.
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I have seen comments elsewhere that claim the crank tightening bolt is too soft for the recommended torque. Any experience with this? What is the recommended torque?
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I have seen comments elsewhere that claim the crank tightening bolt is too soft for the recommended torque. Any experience with this? What is the recommended torque?
have you seen those comments specific to this crank or are you referring to comments on another brand in another thread?
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Any updates on your thoughts on these cranks?
Also, where did you manage to source them for $190? They go for 350 USD now on AliExpress.
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Any updates on your thoughts on these cranks?
Also, where did you manage to source them for $190? They go for 350 USD now on AliExpress.
he said he had AliX coupons available to reduce the price
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Pretty cheap here:
I just found this on AliExpress: $211.50 | BIGROCK Carbon fiber ultra-light road bike crank 110bcd 160 165 170 mm 24 titanium alloy shaft 165mm
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrceZsR
Should be around 180-190 with 40 off 200 coupon
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Sadly this seller doesn’t ship to the US. Anyway, I did pull the trigger in one. Paid $340 in total including shipping. Finger crossed I don’t have to pay any import duties. I’ll update here once I receive it.
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Sadly this seller doesn’t ship to the US. Anyway, I did pull the trigger in one. Paid $340 in total including shipping. Finger crossed I don’t have to pay any import duties. I’ll update here once I receive it.
Tariffs are baked into the price now. :(
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Does anyone have assembly and installation manual for the crankset?
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Does anyone have assembly and installation manual for the crankset?
Check the attached movie
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Check the attached movie
To be honest, with such amount of washers provided, I expected something less straightforward :D
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I have seen comments elsewhere that claim the crank tightening bolt is too soft for the recommended torque. Any experience with this? What is the recommended torque?
It was me talking about the bolt.
I've seen complaints about cranks unscrew themselves over time in Lexon crankset thread. Given that the construction of the BigRock cranks is pretty much the same and what I've received, they use the same bolt, which is made of some lightweight alloy.
Loss of tension is connected with material stretching and it is the early sign of the part not being up to spec which is also confirmed by some specialist in metal works whom I know personally. You made get away with it using locktite and being very gentle with the part bit given the size of the bolt and the specified torque, it's only a matter of time when it will snap.
I experienced rounding, cross-threading, loss of torque and snapping with cheap lightweight bolts and I don't think it's worth the risk, especially with cranksets where a malfunction may cause some serious incidents.
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Bigrock+xcadey mounted on the bike together with new goldix CNC cassette. Nice weight savings, now time to test.
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How is the shifting with the Stone chainrings?
Obviously Shimano is the clear winner. Absolute Black chainrings have been good really also. But Magene's PM chainrings are horrendous to front shift. Those Stone versions remind me of AB.
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How is the shifting with the Stone chainrings?
Obviously Shimano is the clear winner. Absolute Black chainrings have been good really also. But Magene's PM chainrings are horrendous to front shift. Those Stone versions remind me of AB.
I am using those chainrings since last year and they're on par with dura ace chainrings they replaced. Really have only good things to say about stone.
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Bigrock+xcadey mounted on the bike together with new goldix CNC cassette. Nice weight savings, now time to test.
I've installed the cranks and already have some miles with it. Rock solid, nothing to complain about really. I have other carbon cranks (Srams of different generations with different axles) and I don't feel any difference.
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Bigrock Cranks + xcadey powermeter and Bigrock Skyline handlebars are going strong. Bike looks 🔥
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Bigrock Cranks + xcadey powermeter and Bigrock Skyline handlebars are going strong. Bike looks 🔥
Can you please give some info about axle length? What is your bike's bb total width? I'm a bit worried with my 91mm total, and there is no info about max bb width on Ali.
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Can you please give some info about axle length? What is your bike's bb total width? I'm a bit worried with my 91mm total, and there is no info about max bb width on Ali.
Sorry I can't it's already installed. But it's plenty long, I had to use some spacers on each side. It's few mm longer then Magene pes505 I've used before which was very tight fit on my of bb86
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Well, you can, I'm asking about bb width and it can be measured with cranks installed, however regarding the fact that Magene PES is 90.5 mm wide, and those cranks are a bit wider, I'll try them. Thanks for your info!
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Well, you can, I'm asking about bb width and it can be measured with cranks installed, however regarding the fact that Magene PES is 90.5 mm wide, and those cranks are a bit wider, I'll try them. Thanks for your info!
Well I can't as I'm out of home for 2 weeks and only have my gravel bike with me 😂
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I am out of town (away from bikes) for a few week so can’t check, but thinking about going smaller chainrings for my climbing Aethos (that runs the Bigrock crankset). Do you think the crank can take the Praxis spider?
https://www.bike24.com/p2729752.html
Or are there any Chinese solutions with 48/32 rings?
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I am out of town (away from bikes) for a few week so can’t check, but thinking about going smaller chainrings for my climbing Aethos (that runs the Bigrock crankset). Do you think the crank can take the Praxis spider?
https://www.bike24.com/p2729752.html
Or are there any Chinese solutions with 48/32 rings?
Hey Ice,
Check out Stone they make what you are looking for.
46-32T 132g
48-33T 153g
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I've now done about 1200km on the cranks and they are solid/crisp shifting and with the Ultegra rings / 160mm arms around 580g on my scale.
Have not noticed extra flex compared to the Ultegra r8100 they replaced.
Would recommend if you can buy with coupons on Ali.
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I see a strange behavior with my Bigrock crankset, in Aethos frame and new Ultegra BSA BB…
When I push the left crankarm with spindle in (with the preload adjuster screwed all the way in), it is pretty stiff in the frame, it turns but not so smoothly… As you can see in the picture, I can turn the crank to point upwards and it will not fall down on its own… I tried with or without spacers, the same behavior. Also pushing the crank with spindle in is very hard.
No issues with normal Ultegra crankset, that spins freely, goes in easily etc.
Also how many spacers have you used with Shimano BB? I put the thicker black one on the drive side (this way I get the same chainline as with Ultegra crankset, as I don’t have to adjust the FD), the thinner black on the non-drive side, but when I tighten the crankset the preload adjuster won’t move…
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I see a strange behavior with my Bigrock crankset, in Aethos frame and new Ultegra BSA BB…
When I push the left crankarm with spindle in (with the preload adjuster screwed all the way in), it is pretty stiff in the frame, it turns but not so smoothly… As you can see in the picture, I can turn the crank to point upwards and it will not fall down on its own… I tried with or without spacers, the same behavior. Also pushing the crank with spindle in is very hard.
No issues with normal Ultegra crankset, that spins freely, goes in easily etc.
Also how many spacers have you used with Shimano BB? I put the thicker black one on the drive side (this way I get the same chainline as with Ultegra crankset, as I don’t have to adjust the FD), the thinner black on the non-drive side, but when I tighten the crankset the preload adjuster won’t move…
No spacers on either side / No adjusting to do either with front FD same shifting as previously with the Ultegra crankset.
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No spacers on either side / No adjusting to do either with front FD same shifting as previously with the Ultegra crankset.
Interesting! I thought the slack is too much without the spacers, but will try without them, or try washer-style spacers that should not be so draggy… but I have a feeling the spindle is just tiny bit bigger than the shimano one (I have seen that Rotor 24mm spindles were the same, very hard to push through shimano BBs)
Edit: without any spacers I have to turn the preload ring a lot, but with a spacer on the drive-side it's fine, also spins fine. So the spindle is a tiny bit thicker, but it does not matter really...
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anyone know what the chainline is on these cranks?
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No spacers on either side / No adjusting to do either with front FD same shifting as previously with the Ultegra crankset.
Yup same here (installed on a Tarmac SL8). No spacers, re-used the Ultegra chainrings and no adjustment needed at all.
Packaging was good, not a fan of the graphics but couldn't bring myself to sand them off (just yet). Carbon weave looks great. Spider is plain and simple and would have been much nicer if it was a decorative spider that matches the look of the Shimano rings.
As some have mentioned, no instructions. I torqued the 3 bolts to 6.5nm (please let me know if this is too much, or too little).
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Interesting! I thought the slack is too much without the spacers, but will try without them, or try washer-style spacers that should not be so draggy… but I have a feeling the spindle is just tiny bit bigger than the shimano one (I have seen that Rotor 24mm spindles were the same, very hard to push through shimano BBs)
Edit: without any spacers I have to turn the preload ring a lot, but with a spacer on the drive-side it's fine, also spins fine. So the spindle is a tiny bit thicker, but it does not matter really...
I have a similar issue on an ultegra bsa bb. If I don’t use spacers on DS it spins ok with preload spacer taking up the slack, but the chain ends up too close to the inside side of the FD cage. If I put a spacer or 2 on DS then chain is in a good place but the bearings seem to bind up and it doesn’t spin very well. I think it’s because the DS crank can’t reach end of splines when spacers are installed and torqing it up just makes it tight against the BB. Gave up and put ultegra back on for now
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Has anyone taken apart the spider? I need to know how much it weighs and if I replace it with a potentiometer, how much weight that would add. I'm considering whether to use a spider potentiometer or pedal potentiometers.
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I have a similar issue on an ultegra bsa bb. If I don’t use spacers on DS it spins ok with preload spacer taking up the slack, but the chain ends up too close to the inside side of the FD cage. If I put a spacer or 2 on DS then chain is in a good place but the bearings seem to bind up and it doesn’t spin very well. I think it’s because the DS crank can’t reach end of splines when spacers are installed and torqing it up just makes it tight against the BB. Gave up and put ultegra back on for now
Exactly the same issue I was trying to resolve yesterday. My main reason for tinkering was to try to eliminate intermittent outboard chain drops with an Ultegra 12sp FD w/Pass Quest chainrings & Xcadey PM on a Speeder SC-R55.
The FD's limit is maxed out and still tries to push the chain too far at least once or twice a ride, which is significantly more than I feel is acceptable. 3mm & 2mm - shifts on point, but completely binds up at torque. 1mm DS torques down properly with the ability to adjust preload, but it's then back to the same issue. Having said that, in the bike stand, you can bang the chain up and down no worries, and only around 1-2 times will the chain either drop or ride the teeth before popping into gear. Take it out on the road and it's roulette. For the most part, it's been fine, and the chain will jump back on after a few pedal strokes. However, it's not without a few cursory scratches to the cranks.
I've not got around to trying it yet, but my next port of call will be to try to remove the preload from the equation and attempt to use spacers to load and shift the crankset over into a decent chainline. Wonky Q factor or not, I'd rather not have the chain keep dropping mid-ride.
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Would this crankset work with Passquest AXS chainrings ?
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Can someone with an Xcadey PM and Shimano Chainrings confirm the correct Xcadey spider is the SRAM 3-BOLT 110BCD-4 version?
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Exactly the same issue I was trying to resolve yesterday. My main reason for tinkering was to try to eliminate intermittent outboard chain drops with an Ultegra 12sp FD w/Pass Quest chainrings & Xcadey PM on a Speeder SC-R55.
The FD's limit is maxed out and still tries to push the chain too far at least once or twice a ride, which is significantly more than I feel is acceptable. 3mm & 2mm - shifts on point, but completely binds up at torque. 1mm DS torques down properly with the ability to adjust preload, but it's then back to the same issue. Having said that, in the bike stand, you can bang the chain up and down no worries, and only around 1-2 times will the chain either drop or ride the teeth before popping into gear. Take it out on the road and it's roulette. For the most part, it's been fine, and the chain will jump back on after a few pedal strokes. However, it's not without a few cursory scratches to the cranks.
I've not got around to trying it yet, but my next port of call will be to try to remove the preload from the equation and attempt to use spacers to load and shift the crankset over into a decent chainline. Wonky Q factor or not, I'd rather not have the chain keep dropping mid-ride.
Keep us updated. I have chaindrop issues too and I cant replicate them for now. Not sure the issue is in the crankset, it shifts fine under the load and on a stand... Might consider tinkering in this direction.
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Can someone with an Xcadey PM and Shimano Chainrings confirm the correct Xcadey spider is the SRAM 3-BOLT 110BCD-4 version?
I can confirm
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Did anyone try to remove the decals? Was it easy or is there a load of clear coat on top?
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Doesn't look like the seller can ship these cranks to Europe, which is a pitty. Is there a way to purchase them directly from Bigrock? Anyone got a contact?
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Doesn't look like the seller can ship these cranks to Europe
There are a bunch of shops/storefronts selling these. Some of those ship to Europe - usually on the more expensive end of the range, but ship they do nonetheless (or at least they don't say they don't).
Just for reference, XFRRY BIKE Store has several listings. This one should say ~250 USD shipped to Germany before coupons and stuff: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005009175039163.html?
AFAIK there is not a single listing below import duties threshold and neither any seller offering prepaid import handling. Not the end of the world, just a bit more hassle on your end (depending on local customs and stuff).
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Doesn't look like the seller can ship these cranks to Europe, which is a pitty. Is there a way to purchase them directly from Bigrock? Anyone got a contact?
I am in touch with xfrry store in whatsapp since aliex store cannot send the cranks directly to me, though I’m having trust issues atm lol, did anyone here transacted to xfrry store directly in whatsapp?
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I am in touch with xfrry store in whatsapp since aliex store cannot send the cranks directly to me, though I’m having trust issues atm lol, did anyone here transacted to xfrry store directly in whatsapp?
I'd use a credit card with strong buyer protection and roll the dice buying direct. Less likely to get a shoddy crankset versus a shoddy frameset.
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Just received a 165mm chainset to replace my 170mm following a bike fit. The box is marked 165mm Road but the Q factor is massively wider and the 170mm being a much flatter design. I messaged the seller, xferry, who told me they have changed the Q factor “to be more compatible with shimano systems”. Afaik shimano 12 speed cranks have a 148mm Q factor. Are they gaslighting me and they’ve sent me the mtb ones by mistake? Or does this seem genuine? It’s not listed on the ad.
I’m going to try them anyway since the bike fitter already added 4mm total spacers to increase my stance.
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Have you installed the cranks and measured the outside-to-outside from there?
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Just received a 165mm chainset to replace my 170mm following a bike fit. The box is marked 165mm Road but the Q factor is massively wider and the 170mm being a much flatter design. I messaged the seller, xferry, who told me they have changed the Q factor “to be more compatible with shimano systems”. Afaik shimano 12 speed cranks have a 148mm Q factor. Are they gaslighting me and they’ve sent me the mtb ones by mistake? Or does this seem genuine? It’s not listed on the ad.
I’m going to try them anyway since the bike fitter already added 4mm total spacers to increase my stance.
Looking at the different listings on Ali the older ones are 140 and the newer ones 146mm. The difference between yours do look a lot more, but yes, you would have to mount them first to get a good reading. If they are MTB I would expect the axle to be much too wide for your roadbike...
I bought these cranks a few months ago, and found them too narrow for me. Had to max out spacers on the BB and the pedals.
Edit: It also looks like the MTB crank arms look totally different and the axle is DUB, so no way they could be swapped.
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005004704681765.html
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Since I am also interested in these I just asked XFRRY on Aliexpress.
They replied the two listings (q factor 140 and 146 mm) are the same product, just one listing has an actual photo of the crankset.
Q factor is 146 mm except for 165 mm crank length, where they sent me a photo that shows about the same Q factor as on the picture here. Sounded like other crank lengths will also get a wider Q factor in the future.
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Have you installed the cranks and measured the outside-to-outside from there?
The crank arms in pics are both at their maximum insertion on the spindle so if anything on the bike it will slightly wider depending on spacers used. Both old version and new version have the same interfaces and arm thickness.
… If they are MTB I would expect the axle to be much too wide for your roadbike...
I bought these cranks a few months ago, and found them too narrow for me. Had to max out spacers on the BB and the pedals.
Edit: It also looks like the MTB crank arms look totally different and the axle is DUB, so no way they could be swapped.
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005004704681765.html
True about mtb being dub I hadn’t considered that. Yeah actually I’ve been struggling with increased knee pain since switching from ultegra 12s cranks to the 170mm bigrock, hopefully my new 165mm’s increased Q factor will help if they were just too narrow
Since I am also interested in these I just asked XFRRY on Aliexpress.
They replied the two listings (q factor 140 and 146 mm) are the same product, just one listing has an actual photo of the crankset.
Q factor is 146 mm except for 165 mm crank length, where they sent me a photo that shows about the same Q factor as on the picture here. Sounded like other crank lengths will also get a wider Q factor in the future.
Interesting! so they’re not having me on it seems they genuinely are increasing it.
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These stupid fucking assholes! Those were the only cranks with a somewhat acceptable tread width. It's going to be such a nightmare to return these and get the import fees back ...
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These stupid fucking assholes! Those were the only cranks with a somewhat acceptable tread width. It's going to be such a nightmare to return these and get the import fees back ...
Haha calm down dude! I have a set of 170mm for sale if it’s off interest?
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Nah, need 165 same as everybody else ::)
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I asked xfrry store and they said that q factor of 165mm is indeed at 156mm, that’s too wide right?
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I asked xfrry store and they said that q factor of 165mm is indeed at 156mm, that’s too wide right?
I would have loved that! If anyone is from the EU and wants to switch... :)
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I would have loved that! If anyone is from the EU and wants to switch... :)
Switch with what?
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Switch with what?
I have the 165mm with the narrow Q-factor, but would rather have the wide Q-factor :) So if there is someone with the reverse problem...
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I asked xfrry store and they said that q factor of 165mm is indeed at 156mm, that’s too wide right?
No way the qfactor is 156mm. I've measured mine and it was from what I remember something like 147mm
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No way the qfactor is 156mm. I've measured mine and it was from what I remember something like 147mm
Maybe have a look at this post to see the photos of the newer cranks flaring out substantially while the older ones (other photo in same post) are almost straight ...
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6095.msg93982.html#msg93982
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I'm thinking they're getting rid of the overlapping road arms and using the mtb ones with road spindles instead, to cut some costs. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004704681765.html
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Maybe have a look at this post to see the photos of the newer cranks flaring out substantially while the older ones (other photo in same post) are almost straight ...
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6095.msg93982.html#msg93982
Maybe have a look at the name of this thread. We are talking about bigrock 24mm titanium spindle crankset. Someone bought dub crankset with MTB arms and still does not see what's wrong? Anyone with 2 eyes can clearly see that those are 2 different products. C'mon guys, if you can't even spend 5 minutes to see what u actually ordering maybe that's not the job for u.
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An MTB crank would have a q-factor way beyond 156mm, or it would be clipping the chainstays. It would also be immediately obvious when he compared the two cranks next to each other that the MTB set has a wider and thicker spindle.
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An MTB crank would have a q-factor way beyond 156mm, or it would be clipping the chainstays. It would also be immediately obvious when he compared the two cranks next to each other that the MTB set has a wider and thicker spindle.
Ok one more time. The thread is about a crankset with 24mm titanium spindle and someone bought a dub version that's CLEARLY different and does not see it. Spindle is DUB, arms are visibly bent to outside unlike the version we are discussing here. This is a different product. So saying that they changed qfactor is false because they didn't. Qfactor on 24mm version is still the same, nothing changed. Once more I'll say that people should look at photos and read description what they are buying if they wanna later put it on their bike.
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Ok one more time. The thread is about a crankset with 24mm titanium spindle and someone bought a dub version that's CLEARLY different and does not see it. Spindle is DUB, arms are visibly bent to outside unlike the version we are discussing here. This is a different product. So saying that they changed qfactor is false because they didn't. Qfactor on 24mm version is still the same, nothing changed. Once more I'll say that people should look at photos and read description what they are buying if they wanna later put it on their bike.
Well, maybe YOU should look closer. The MTB cranks are very different and the buyer has the old and the new set, so I would guess he is able to tell the difference if one of the sets is a MTB set with a much longer and wider axle...
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Maybe have a look at the name of this thread. We are talking about bigrock 24mm titanium spindle crankset. Someone bought dub crankset with MTB arms and still does not see what's wrong? Anyone with 2 eyes can clearly see that those are 2 different products.
No need to get pissy. Especially not when you're most likely wrong. I meant it: Look at the f'ing pictures. And if you want to disregard those, fine. What about the person that claimed the seller explicitly told them they were shipping 165s only in wide from now on?
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No need to get pissy. Especially not when you're most likely wrong. I meant it: Look at the f'ing pictures. And if you want to disregard those, fine. What about the person that claimed the seller explicitly told them they were shipping 165s only in wide from now on?
Choose w better seller
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These stupid fucking assholes! Those were the only cranks with a somewhat acceptable tread width. It's going to be such a nightmare to return these and get the import fees back ...
Relax, buying cheap on ali is so much fun...you will remember :-)
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Got some coming. After 20 years on 175mm cranks with no probs, I've gone super short. 172.5 ;D
I may be asking fitment questions, but have had a look here and on WW.
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Is there a guide on whether you need spacers / how many with this crank? I'm using a tarmac with BSA. Or can we work it out by measuring the spindle length or distance between crank arms and the BB width?
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Is there a guide on whether you need spacers / how many with this crank? I'm using a tarmac with BSA. Or can we work it out by measuring the spindle length or distance between crank arms and the BB width?
It all depends on your frame and bottom bracket.Check your crank distance from some symmetric part of your bike (e.g. bottle cage bolts) and, if necessary, adjust to achieve equal distance on both sides.
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So I have mostly installed the cranks tonight, they were a bit of a faff to get the spacing right (mainly because I didn't have a good reference point to measure to that I was certain was on the centreline). I ended up with 1mm spacer on the DS and using the preload collar to take up the space on the NDS. I haven't adjusted the FD yet but the crank arm just brushes it as you cycle it.
One thing I did find was the spindle was way tighter to push through the Bb (Shimano BBR60) than the DA it replaced, I had to use a mallet (I could always push the DA crank in by hand) - has anyone else found this?
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They say the only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
Anyway, my best wasn't very good and it was a long time ago. I would like to put 50/34 chainrings on my Bigrock crankset not the 52/36 on my current Ultegra 8100 cranks.
Just would like to confirm this will fit despite the rings appearing profiled to fit Shimano cranks?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLW462v
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They say the only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
Anyway, my best wasn't very good and it was a long time ago. I would like to put 50/34 chainrings on my Bigrock crankset not the 52/36 on my current Ultegra 8100 cranks.
Just would like to confirm this will fit despite the rings appearing profiled to fit Shimano cranks?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLW462v
As long as you have the appropriate 110 bcd 4 bolt adapter, the Stone chainrings are very good. They shift as well as my Dura Ace and Ultegra chainrings I was using.
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As long as you have the appropriate 110 bcd 4 bolt adapter, the Stone chainrings are very good. They shift as well as my Dura Ace and Ultegra chainrings I was using.
(https://imgur.com/a/MSjM6DL#IzEkBlT)
https://imgur.com/a/MSjM6DL#IzEkBlT
Just the adaptor the Bigrock cranks came with. Doesn't have the profiling the Shimano cranks have
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There are photos on WW of shimano rings fitted to that spider, so a bit of dumb question sorry.
DJC bikes sent me a whatsapp and asked for a photo of the chainset. Confirmed it would fit before sending. So that was good of them. 👌
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The cranks comes with the above spider which indeed fits Shimano Chainrings.
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With the cranks installed and a 1mm spacer on the DS to get the crank arms spaced evenly, I have a 2mm ish gap between the preload collar and NDS crank arm- is this too much? It seems to week fine but it's a bit when looking down and seeing the gap. I'm considering installing a 1mm spacer between the preload collar and BB.
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With the cranks installed and a 1mm spacer on the DS to get the crank arms spaced evenly, I have a 2mm ish gap between the preload collar and NDS crank arm- is this too much? It seems to week fine but it's a bit when looking down and seeing the gap. I'm considering installing a 1mm spacer between the preload collar and BB.
So there is nothing in the gap? You have to fill it with spacers, else there will be high risk of knee injury after it slips to the opposite side. But I bet you get into shifting problems first.
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With the cranks installed and a 1mm spacer on the DS to get the crank arms spaced evenly, I have a 2mm ish gap between the preload collar and NDS crank arm- is this too much? It seems to week fine but it's a bit when looking down and seeing the gap. I'm considering installing a 1mm spacer between the preload collar and BB.
So there is nothing in the gap? You have to fill it with spacers, else there will be high risk of knee injury after it slips to the opposite side. But I bet you get into shifting problems first.
What?!
Did they change the design to one of those floating preload adjusters (where the male thread part is just shoved onto the axle and not part of the crank arm)?
Or are you saying that the preload collar doesn't have enough thread engagement anymore at this position? I don't know how long the thread is / how far you can screw the collar off before it gets risky. If the male thread is still part of the crank arm, you would definitely not fill up the gap between crank arm and preload collar with spacers. If the adjustment range isn't enough, you'd put the spacer(s) between the collar (the nut, so to speak) and the bb side.
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So there is nothing in the gap? You have to fill it with spacers, else there will be high risk of knee injury after it slips to the opposite side. But I bet you get into shifting problems first.
What?!
Did they change the design to one of those floating preload adjusters (where the male thread part is just shoved onto the axle and not part of the crank arm)?
Or are you saying that the preload collar doesn't have enough thread engagement anymore at this position? I don't know how long the thread is / how far you can screw the collar off before it gets risky. If the male thread is still part of the crank arm, you would definitely not fill up the gap between crank arm and preload collar with spacers. If the adjustment range isn't enough, you'd put the spacer(s) between the collar (the nut, so to speak) and the bb side.
The "gap" is between the NDS crank arm and collar and is filled by the thread the collar threads on. There are only 2 issues I see - 1. It looks strange and 2. I'm not sure how much of the thread is engaged on the collar with it adjusted as is, so could lead to issues.
If someone has a crank that's not installed and could measure the length of the thread, it would be appreciated.
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The "gap" is between the NDS crank arm and collar and is filled by the thread the collar threads on. There are only 2 issues I see - 1. It looks strange and 2. I'm not sure how much of the thread is engaged on the collar with it adjusted as is, so could lead to issues.
OK, that makes sense. If you want to be on the safe side, just turn the collar back some and put spacers between it and the bb (assuming there are still spacers left (and that they're of the right size, as to not rub on the bb cup or anything)).
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The "gap" is between the NDS crank arm and collar and is filled by the thread the collar threads on. There are only 2 issues I see - 1. It looks strange and 2. I'm not sure how much of the thread is engaged on the collar with it adjusted as is, so could lead to issues.
If someone has a crank that's not installed and could measure the length of the thread, it would be appreciated.
I measured the spacer with my verniers. The threaded extension on the nds crank arm was ~5mm. Couldn't get a photo with only 2 hands sorry.
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Thanks Warty, that gives me some confidence that there is probably about 3mm of thread engaged. It should be fine
For reference this is what the NDS currently looks like.
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I just ordered these crank yesterday and the seller contacted me to ask if q factor of 157mm is ok.
I asked him about the spindle length and he told me he will measure before shipping.
Does anyone have experience fitting this into a T47 85.5bb?
If so, how did the alignment work out?
Edit: I've receiced this pic from the seller. Doesn't really tell me enough to know if it fits. I will update here once I receive it
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I ordered these cranks. As a result of correspondence, the seller provided the following data on the dependence of the Q Factor on the length of the crank:
Length 160 mm - Q Factor 146 mm
Length 165 mm - Q Factor 156 mm
Length 167.5 mm - Q Factor 146 mm
Length 170 mm - Q Factor 146 mm
Length 172.5 mm - Q Factor 146 mm
This information was important to me because I am going to change the cranks on my TT bike, which has a Q-Factor of 145.5.
I couldn't find this table anywhere, so I decided to write it down to clarify things.
By the way, the salesperson was so attentive that he even found a mistake in my order :) I accidentally chose 165 mm, although I wanted 160 mm.
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I ordered these cranks. As a result of correspondence, the seller provided the following data on the dependence of the Q Factor on the length of the crank:
Length 160 mm - Q Factor 146 mm
Length 165 mm - Q Factor 156 mm
Length 167.5 mm - Q Factor 146 mm
Length 170 mm - Q Factor 146 mm
Length 172.5 mm - Q Factor 146 mm
This information was important to me because I am going to change the cranks on my TT bike, which has a Q-Factor of 145.5.
I couldn't find this table anywhere, so I decided to write it down to clarify things.
By the way, the salesperson was so attentive that he even found a mistake in my order :) I accidentally chose 165 mm, although I wanted 160 mm.
Makes no sense to me why only that one crank length would have that Q factor when the rest have the same. Very odd to me.
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Maybe a bit off topic.
I am before purchasing of BigRock cockpit (integrated handlebar).
Am wondering about the reliability of their products. I assume there were no failerus? Are their products a top lever quality?
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I ordered these cranks. As a result of correspondence, the seller provided the following data on the dependence of the Q Factor on the length of the crank:
Length 160 mm - Q Factor 146 mm
Length 165 mm - Q Factor 156 mm
Length 167.5 mm - Q Factor 146 mm
Length 170 mm - Q Factor 146 mm
Length 172.5 mm - Q Factor 146 mm
This information was important to me because I am going to change the cranks on my TT bike, which has a Q-Factor of 145.5.
I couldn't find this table anywhere, so I decided to write it down to clarify things.
By the way, the salesperson was so attentive that he even found a mistake in my order :) I accidentally chose 165 mm, although I wanted 160 mm.
This makes no sense. Are you sure those numbers are correct?
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Yes they are, we've been through this before, more than once. Best guess is the 165mm, and only the 165mm, variant shares the same arms with the MTB version, just using different spindles. Most likely this is a cost cutting measure.
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Maybe a bit off topic.
I am before purchasing of BigRock cockpit (integrated handlebar).
Am wondering about the reliability of their products. I assume there were no failerus? Are their products a top lever quality?
I own one cockpit (one already sold) and a seatpost. No issues, top quality.
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Yes they are, we've been through this before, more than once. Best guess is the 165mm, and only the 165mm, variant shares the same arms with the MTB version, just using different spindles. Most likely this is a cost cutting measure.
Ok, yeah maybe you're right, but the mtb arms they also offer in different lengths i suppose? And then the cost saving measure would also apply to the other lengths.
But anyway I don't mind.. I ride mtb, road and gravel and have never had issues with the difference in q- factor.
More importantly: has anyone been able to measure spindle length when it is mounted on the arms by any chance? :)
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Ok, yeah maybe you're right, but the mtb arms they also offer in different lengths i suppose? And then the cost saving measure would also apply to the other lengths.
But anyway I don't mind.. I ride mtb, road and gravel and have never had issues with the difference in q- factor.
More importantly: has anyone been able to measure spindle length when it is mounted on the arms by any chance? :)
I didn’t measure the axle length, but I have it mounted in a T47 86.5 mm with spacers and preload.
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кто-нибудь случайно смог измерить длину оси, когда она установлена на рычагах?
When my order arrives (I hope it will be 160mm with a Q Factor of 146), I will try to remember to take measurements.
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This makes no sense. Are you sure those numbers are correct?
The AliExpress seller gave me this information. It's also confirmed by some reviews – the buyer was upset when he received 165mm cranks and found them to be 156mm Q Facrot (when he was expecting 146mm!!). This is why I negotiated with the seller before ordering. So, be careful.
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The AliExpress seller gave me this information. It's also confirmed by some reviews – the buyer was upset when he received 165mm cranks and found them to be 156mm Q Facrot (when he was expecting 146mm!!). This is why I negotiated with the seller before ordering. So, be careful.
That's strange because I thought that narrow q-factor was the reason people were buying these cranks in the first place. Or could it be that they have already sold out of all their 165mm road bike cranksets and are now passing 165mm mtb-cranksets as road variants?
I've been riding a 165mm crankset for a few months now, with a q-factor of ~146mm. Overall, I've been very satisfied. In terms of quality, they sit somewhere between the Lexxon and Elilee cranks. With these, I have not needed any spacers between the Favero pedals, which makes the q-factor even narrower. Axle sits sitffer in the bb than in Shimano cranksets and as a result they dont spin freely as easily but I don't think that makes even 0,1 watts difference.
I have not encountered any problems, except that installation was a pain in the ass, as there were no instructions available. I had to disassemble the cranks few times to fiddle with spacers and to get correct chainline. ATM I have couple of spacers on the driveside but NDS sits ~1,5mm closer to the frame. Maybe later I'll try to center both crankarms with different spider and extra set of spacers but for now on I've let it be as it doesn't make any difference.
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That's strange because I thought that narrow q-factor was the reason people were buying these cranks in the first place. Or could it be that they have already sold out of all their 165mm road bike cranksets and are now passing 165mm mtb-cranksets as road variants?
I've been riding a 165mm crankset for a few months now, with a q-factor of ~146mm. Overall, I've been very satisfied. In terms of quality, they sit somewhere between the Lexxon and Elilee cranks. With these, I have not needed any spacers between the Favero pedals, which makes the q-factor even narrower. Axle sits sitffer in the bb than in Shimano cranksets and as a result they dont spin freely as easily but I don't think that makes even 0,1 watts difference.
I have not encountered any problems, except that installation was a pain in the ass, as there were no instructions available. I had to disassemble the cranks few times to fiddle with spacers and to get correct chainline. ATM I have couple of spacers on the driveside but NDS sits ~1,5mm closer to the frame. Maybe later I'll try to center both crankarms with different spider and extra set of spacers but for now on I've let it be as it doesn't make any difference.
What kind of bb does your frame have? And how many and which spacers do you have currently mounted on the DS? Why don't you move a spacer to the NDS to make it center? Perhaps this could help you solve the 1,5mm difference: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shimano-spacer-0.7mm-for-hollowtech-ii-bottom-brackets-1?number=20145482&__delivery=21&__currency=1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20621451826&gbraid=0AAAAADnpmkC02LGs230HziR0BF78E5T4w&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyP3KBhD9ARIsAAJLnnZn7vtRS4l8K3_KEtIki2EJQLGGN-GZodDDHS09dvxXny1xWzICtdsaAno_EALw_wcB (https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shimano-spacer-0.7mm-for-hollowtech-ii-bottom-brackets-1?number=20145482&__delivery=21&__currency=1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20621451826&gbraid=0AAAAADnpmkC02LGs230HziR0BF78E5T4w&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyP3KBhD9ARIsAAJLnnZn7vtRS4l8K3_KEtIki2EJQLGGN-GZodDDHS09dvxXny1xWzICtdsaAno_EALw_wcB)
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What kind of bb does your frame have? And how many and which spacers do you have currently mounted on the DS? Why don't you move a spacer to the NDS to make it center? Perhaps this could help you solve the 1,5mm difference: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shimano-spacer-0.7mm-for-hollowtech-ii-bottom-brackets-1?number=20145482&__delivery=21&__currency=1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20621451826&gbraid=0AAAAADnpmkC02LGs230HziR0BF78E5T4w&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyP3KBhD9ARIsAAJLnnZn7vtRS4l8K3_KEtIki2EJQLGGN-GZodDDHS09dvxXny1xWzICtdsaAno_EALw_wcB (https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shimano-spacer-0.7mm-for-hollowtech-ii-bottom-brackets-1?number=20145482&__delivery=21&__currency=1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20621451826&gbraid=0AAAAADnpmkC02LGs230HziR0BF78E5T4w&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyP3KBhD9ARIsAAJLnnZn7vtRS4l8K3_KEtIki2EJQLGGN-GZodDDHS09dvxXny1xWzICtdsaAno_EALw_wcB)
I have bb86 frame. If I remeber correctly I have 2mm and 0,5mm or 1mm spacers wich came with the crankset on the driveside and 1mm or 0,5mm spacer on the nds and I still need to tighten preload ring a bit.
Of course, if I had more spacers I could center them, but at the time of installation I only had the three spacers that came with the cranks and that was left for later because it really isn't a problem you notice or can feel and riding the bike was more important.
Maybe I'll order more spacers as they aren't hard to source, but I was wondering if I put more spacers on the nds crankarms would't sit all the way into the axle splines and it would widen the Q-factor. I've also heard that this Easton Spider (https://www.bike24.com/p2239889.html?searchTerm=easton+spider&source=SRP&indexName=production_SEARCH_INDEX_EN&objectId=239889&queryId=79f00a220ee864a5dd77a61778606ff0&userToken=25291f14-699f-4438-873f-4c4a9ee95f1d) would move chainline a little further, so I wouldn't even necessarily need spacers.
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I have bb86 frame. If I remeber correctly I have 2mm and 0,5mm or 1mm spacers wich came with the crankset on the driveside and 1mm or 0,5mm spacer on the nds and I still need to tighten preload ring a bit.
Of course, if I had more spacers I could center them, but at the time of installation I only had the three spacers that came with the cranks and that was left for later because it really isn't a problem you notice or can feel and riding the bike was more important.
Maybe I'll order more spacers as they aren't hard to source, but I was wondering if I put more spacers on the nds crankarms would't sit all the way into the axle splines and it would widen the Q-factor. I've also heard that this Easton Spider (https://www.bike24.com/p2239889.html?searchTerm=easton+spider&source=SRP&indexName=production_SEARCH_INDEX_EN&objectId=239889&queryId=79f00a220ee864a5dd77a61778606ff0&userToken=25291f14-699f-4438-873f-4c4a9ee95f1d) would move chainline a little further, so I wouldn't even necessarily need spacers.
In that case you don't really need to order more spacers. You could just move the 0.5mm spacer from DS to NDS. To reduce the difference between left and right to 0.5mm. THAT difference you will definetely not feel.
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I have seen quite a few now with the Xcadey PM installed on this crankset.
Did you also notice the interface between spider and crank was not ideal? I can't blame BigRock for this since it's the pm, but I still think this topic is the right place to share it and perhaps learn from other's experiences (plz correct me if I'm wrong).
There are two things I would have prefered to see different.
1. The cut-out for the bolt head on the pm spider I would prefer to see bigger, so you can just use the original sram (or bigrock) bolts. Now there is only a small cut-out and they have supplied crappy bolts with a small head and I'm not super confident that they will clamp the spider properly against the crank. Sram recommends 9Nm for these bolts. I don't think I would trust to go that high with these bolts.
2. The surface of the spider sits about 1.5mm higher than the surface of the crank. If all is well this shouldn't affect the functionality of the pm but perhaps it would still be nice if it was kind of flush (but not completely off course). The BigRock supplied spider sits a lot nicer.
Did anyone else share a similar experience?
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I have seen quite a few now with the Xcadey PM installed on this crankset.
Did you also notice the interface between spider and crank was not ideal? I can't blame BigRock for this since it's the pm, but I still think this topic is the right place to share it and perhaps learn from other's experiences (plz correct me if I'm wrong).
There are two things I would have prefered to see different.
1. The cut-out for the bolt head on the pm spider I would prefer to see bigger, so you can just use the original sram (or bigrock) bolts. Now there is only a small cut-out and they have supplied crappy bolts with a small head and I'm not super confident that they will clamp the spider properly against the crank. Sram recommends 9Nm for these bolts. I don't think I would trust to go that high with these bolts.
2. The surface of the spider sits about 1.5mm higher than the surface of the crank. If all is well this shouldn't affect the functionality of the pm but perhaps it would still be nice if it was kind of flush (but not completely off course). The BigRock supplied spider sits a lot nicer.
Did anyone else share a similar experience?
The BigRock spider fitted perfectly, and when I installed the Xcadey there was a small amount of play (minimal), but once it was bolted down it was completely solid and I haven’t had any issues.
Regarding the bolts, I would have liked to use the original ones or SRAM bolts, but Xcadey supplies their own bolts, which must be tightened to the torque specified by the brand. I haven’t had any quality issues with them. Xcadey specifies a tightening torque of 5 Nm, so I followed the manual and tightened them to that value.
Before receiving the Xcadey, I bought compatible bolts just in case, as I had heard comments about the poor quality of the original ones. I bought M5x12 compatible bolts; I’m attaching the link below:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005007279049844.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.22.1c71194dGIt1jN&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp
As for it protruding slightly more, this is something that is already known about this power meter, as I had seen it before. In my case, I have a T47 86.5 mm bottom bracket and I had to add spacers to prevent rubbing. In total, I added 2.5 mm on the drivetrain side, because otherwise the power meter would rub against the bottom bracket.
As a result, the crank arms are not perfectly centered now. I installed it this way just for testing and I should disassemble it again to try to balance both sides, although I’m not sure if that will be possible.
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The BigRock spider fitted perfectly, and when I installed the Xcadey there was a small amount of play (minimal), but once it was bolted down it was completely solid and I haven’t had any issues.
Regarding the bolts, I would have liked to use the original ones or SRAM bolts, but Xcadey supplies their own bolts, which must be tightened to the torque specified by the brand. I haven’t had any quality issues with them. Xcadey specifies a tightening torque of 5 Nm, so I followed the manual and tightened them to that value.
Before receiving the Xcadey, I bought compatible bolts just in case, as I had heard comments about the poor quality of the original ones. I bought M5x12 compatible bolts; I’m attaching the link below:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005007279049844.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.22.1c71194dGIt1jN&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp
As for it protruding slightly more, this is something that is already known about this power meter, as I had seen it before. In my case, I have a T47 86.5 mm bottom bracket and I had to add spacers to prevent rubbing. In total, I added 2.5 mm on the drivetrain side, because otherwise the power meter would rub against the bottom bracket.
As a result, the crank arms are not perfectly centered now. I installed it this way just for testing and I should disassemble it again to try to balance both sides, although I’m not sure if that will be possible.
Good to know they recommend 5Nm. I couldn't find that in the documentation that was supplied with the PM.
Regarding the 12.9 bolts (that's a good idea!), it seems the one from your link are tapered but we need the non-tapered?
Rubbing of the PM against the BB was something that crossed my mind as well with this design. I've got T47 85.5mm so good chance I will experience the same. I hope not though because cranks not being centered would be disappointing.
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Good to know they recommend 5Nm. I couldn't find that in the documentation that was supplied with the PM.
Regarding the 12.9 bolts (that's a good idea!), it seems the one from your link are tapered but we need the non-tapered?
Rubbing of the PM against the BB was something that crossed my mind as well with this design. I've got T47 85.5mm so good chance I will experience the same. I hope not though because cranks not being centered would be disappointing.
These are the screws I found that fit the potentiometer well. There might be a better option, but I couldn't find one at the time. Also, I made the purchase without the potentiometer, so I requested the measurements separately. However, I have verified that the screws I'm sending you are compatible, although I am currently using the ones that came with the Xcadey.
I'm attaching the torque specifications for the Xcadey.
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Good morning,
I have a question: with a carbon crankset that has a 24 mm spindle, what would be the best setup to install it on a bike with a SRAM groupset?
Are there specific chainrings for use with SRAM? Do people use generic components (Shimano and SRAM) together, or do they use parts more adapted to Shimano — and in that case, use a Shimano chain?
SRAM chains have a different pin spacing compared to Shimano, so could there be a problem using chainrings that aren’t made to the SRAM standard?
Sorry if I wasn’t clear...
In summary: with a crankset like this, where the standard is Easton, which chainrings do you recommend for installing it on a SRAM groupset?
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Pass Quest offers Shimano and SRAM (they call it AXS) options, this relates to the chain you are using
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Good morning,
I have a question: with a carbon crankset that has a 24 mm spindle, what would be the best setup to install it on a bike with a SRAM groupset?
Are there specific chainrings for use with SRAM? Do people use generic components (Shimano and SRAM) together, or do they use parts more adapted to Shimano — and in that case, use a Shimano chain?
SRAM chains have a different pin spacing compared to Shimano, so could there be a problem using chainrings that aren’t made to the SRAM standard?
Sorry if I wasn’t clear...
In summary: with a crankset like this, where the standard is Easton, which chainrings do you recommend for installing it on a SRAM groupset?
Any chainrings specified for Sram would work, given you will use proper chain and cassette. Pass Quest and Stone are good chainrings. For 1x there is more flexibility in mix and match, but for 2x I would use AXS-specific parts (including 3rd party).
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thank you both!! I will have a look in this brands!!
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thank you both!! I will have a look in this brands!!
Leese cranks (24mm Ti) X XCadey PM X Sprill 48/35 AXS
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I have a load of leftover screws and wondering if 8 have missed something on the nds crank arm? Thinis a pic for reference and also one of the screws I have not used.
Never done anything like this before so would really appreciate help!
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Just ordered this crankset. Had to go down to 160mm length due to the wide q-factor of 165mm, but will be interesting to try. Anyway, my main use will be with Ultegra chainrings, but I am going to the alps this summer, and was thinking if I could fit my GRX chainrings for that. Does anybody know of a spider that fits this crank and GRX chainrings(BCD110/80?)? Tried to google a bit, but seemed to only find for Rotor cranks, but I might be missing something.
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The BigRock spider fitted perfectly, and when I installed the Xcadey there was a small amount of play (minimal), but once it was bolted down it was completely solid and I haven’t had any issues.
Regarding the bolts, I would have liked to use the original ones or SRAM bolts, but Xcadey supplies their own bolts, which must be tightened to the torque specified by the brand. I haven’t had any quality issues with them. Xcadey specifies a tightening torque of 5 Nm, so I followed the manual and tightened them to that value.
Before receiving the Xcadey, I bought compatible bolts just in case, as I had heard comments about the poor quality of the original ones. I bought M5x12 compatible bolts; I’m attaching the link below:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005007279049844.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.22.1c71194dGIt1jN&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp
As for it protruding slightly more, this is something that is already known about this power meter, as I had seen it before. In my case, I have a T47 86.5 mm bottom bracket and I had to add spacers to prevent rubbing. In total, I added 2.5 mm on the drivetrain side, because otherwise the power meter would rub against the bottom bracket.
As a result, the crank arms are not perfectly centered now. I installed it this way just for testing and I should disassemble it again to try to balance both sides, although I’m not sure if that will be possible.
Don't use these bolts. They've got a tapered head, compared to the original flat head. I knew it wasn't perfect but I still gave it a shot because I didn't like the fragile looking original bolts.
The tapered ones came loose (even with using loctite) and my bike started to make a creaking sound when pedaling. I kind of forgot about the bolts and it took me a while to found out they were the issue.
Went back to the original flat bolts and the bike is quiet again.
Regarding the spacing on the T47 86.5 BB I had exactly the same issue. Also added 2,5mm of spacers. I solved the difference by adding a spacer on my left pedal.
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Ordered KORE crankset with ti axle for my gravel build. It has has pretty much the same construction and same spider interface, so IMO there is no reason to create another thread. Will report on the possible issues once installed.
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Is someone able to measure the spindle diameter?
I'm measuring 23.95 on both sides with digital caliper. My bike is equipped with Oniri t47 85.5 bb.
I feel some play on both crankarms and it makes a ticking sound while pedalling with some pressure.
There's no lateral play and I played a bit with the preload but that doesn't solve it.
I'm a bit worried tyat the interface between spindle and bb is not tight enough. I didn’t have this issue with shimano ulegra crank that I used a while ago. Don’t have it around anymore so can't measure that spindle