Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: s3si1u on June 20, 2025, 03:54:42 PM
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Looks like Carbonda is getting ready to launch a new house brand and gravel frame.
Anyone with some more info? Geo chart maybe?
Opinions on the brand name and logo? :-X :-X :-X
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Lmao those Chinese guys really need to hire some western dude to come up with brand names for them 😂
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Lmao those Chinese guys really need to hire some western dude to come up with brand names for them 😂
;D you're so right...
I get the idea behind... the bike should support the rider. But the brand name is awful..
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Silly name and the ugliest font I've seen in a while. The frame looks like any other generic oem stuff but i do like the seatpost. Should be comfy
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Looks like it will clear some pretty wide tires with both stays dropped like that. It seems to be aimed more for the race crowd than the adventure crowd though - no mounting points other than the bottle cages. That's also a pretty massive chainring.
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Inspired by the Argon Dark Matter…
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I will have a look on it next week.
Here's some information about the frame:
AF 01 Gravel Frameset – Assisting Force
The AF 01 is the first gravel frameset launched under the Assisting Force brand. Drawing on years of expertise in gravel frame manufacturing and insights from professional gravel riders, we’ve designed this high-performance, top-tier yet affordable gravel frameset.
Key Features:
✅ Advanced Construction – Utilizing our factory’s proudly mastered monocoque molding and lightweight optimization, the AF 01 delivers exceptional strength while minimizing weight. The SSL version achieves an impressive ~800g frame weight, ensuring agile and responsive gravel riding.
✅ Optimized Geometry – With six size options (XS to XXL), the AF 01 accommodates a wide range of riders. The 425mm chainstay length enhances power transfer, while the 55mm fork offset prevents toe overlap for smoother handling.
✅ Modern Design – Features full internal cable routing and a 1x-specific design (no front derailleur mount) for a clean, maintenance-friendly setup that meets the demands of most gravel riding scenarios.
✅ Tire Clearance & Storage – Accommodates 700x50c tires with a dropped chainstay design. Additionally, the downtube storage compartment (includes two waterproof bags) offers convenient tool storage.
Technical Specifications:
Frame Weight (SSL): ~800g
Sizes Available: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
Chainstay Length: 425mm
Fork Offset: 55mm
Max Tire Clearance: 700x50c
Drivetrain Compatibility: 1x only (no front derailleur mount)
Cable Routing: Fully internal
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That's a great brand name.... for an e-bike company.
The features of the frame are all par on with what a modern gravel bike should have. The looks of it are on the safe side, nothing exciting about it.
I do hope they offer the frame without their name/logo on it because that will be a deal breaker for many people.
Also, I'm curious if they will increase the sales price for their branded frames to the level of Winspace, Yoeleo ... just for the sake of being a 'brand'.
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;)
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Looks like Carbonda is getting ready to launch a new house brand and gravel frame.
Anyone with some more info? Geo chart maybe?
Opinions on the brand name and logo? :-X :-X :-X
This could be the greatest gravel frame ever built, but it's the same reason I won't ride a Big Rock frame. The name is just terrible! :'( ;D
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I was lucky to get one at Eurobike ;D
The frame (a super light one), seatpost, and bars are from them.
SRAM XPLR Red for the transmission.
The wheels are from my CFR505, which is very sad being dropped after so many years together, and I will move to LightBicycle WG55 with carbon spokes.
I'll end up with 45mm tires, the frame allows 50
I just did a quick 50km ride in the woods nearby yesterday.
It is stiff, in a good way. It doesn't flex at all when pedaling hard, sprinting, or fast cornering.
And if feels more precise to handle. Even making a U-turn is easier.
As pictured, it is 7.8kg
If you are in Europe, one finding from this build is https://www.wielerkoopjes.nl/ and their sister site https://www.wheel-parts.shop/nl/.
They sell good OEM components, no fancy boxes, but great prices and excellent service.
For the name, yeah... there's a cultural thing here.
Darevie is another example of these out-of-nowhere words.
Initially, it did hurt my feelings, but now I'm starting to get used to it.
In any case, it's vinyl stickers.
I’m not a good photographer, so I took many pictures to be sure I got at least a few good ones 8): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1b45PRepiLBsEmhYl47EmzG9tmCGcI2TG
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I know looks are subjective but for me this bike is ugly af and the branding is even worse. What where they thinking with this goofy name?
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what a shame to not include a FD mount... geo looks decent but 1x is a boner killer
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what a shame to not include a FD mount... geo looks decent but 1x is a boner killer
FD mount will come back on production version
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The ten year old in me wants to cover the first I to make it say Ass Sting.
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The ten year old in me wants to cover the first I to make it say Ass Sting.
Can't unsee it now.
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Ok, but with or without Force then ? 8)
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I emailed the manufacturer and it is possible to order a frame without any decals except the AF01 on the top tube that you have to keep.
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I’m not a good photographer, so I took many pictures to be sure I got at least a few good ones 8): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1b45PRepiLBsEmhYl47EmzG9tmCGcI2TG
I know it officially clears 50s but really interested if you could squeeze 2.1 or even 2.2's in this frame.
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I was lucky to get one at Eurobike ;D
The frame (a super light one), seatpost, and bars are from them.
SRAM XPLR Red for the transmission.
The wheels are from my CFR505, which is very sad being dropped after so many years together, and I will move to LightBicycle WG55 with carbon spokes.
I'll end up with 45mm tires, the frame allows 50
I just did a quick 50km ride in the woods nearby yesterday.
It is stiff, in a good way. It doesn't flex at all when pedaling hard, sprinting, or fast cornering.
And if feels more precise to handle. Even making a U-turn is easier.
As pictured, it is 7.8kg
If you are in Europe, one finding from this build is https://www.wielerkoopjes.nl/ and their sister site https://www.wheel-parts.shop/nl/.
They sell good OEM components, no fancy boxes, but great prices and excellent service.
For the name, yeah... there's a cultural thing here.
Darevie is another example of these out-of-nowhere words.
Initially, it did hurt my feelings, but now I'm starting to get used to it.
In any case, it's vinyl stickers.
I’m not a good photographer, so I took many pictures to be sure I got at least a few good ones 8): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1b45PRepiLBsEmhYl47EmzG9tmCGcI2TG
Hi, it seems you changed the seatpost clamps to carbon ones? Would you share the dimensions of the clamps? I plan to do the same to mine.
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"Preorder: Ships from 90 days after checkout".
This means 3 months wait to ship at minimum???
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"Preorder: Ships from 90 days after checkout".
This means 3 months wait to ship at minimum???
"Preorder" is the magic word. They are obviously not in series production right now, which is the reason for the long waiting time.
If you go for another already settled frame the waiting time only depends on 2 things: is your size in stock? And how long is the waiting time for the paint job.
I wouldn't count to much on 90 days. Before a series ramp up is finished a lot of things can create delay. That's not uncommon unfortunately.
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Got this from them as well. Thought it might help some here.
Attached the Paint Guide also.
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On paper I feel like this Ass Stinger looks like a solid frameset. Wish I could justify another frame purchase. Maybe in 6-12 months. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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I’m not a good photographer, so I took many pictures to be sure I got at least a few good ones 8): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1b45PRepiLBsEmhYl47EmzG9tmCGcI2TG
Can I ask how tall you are and what is the size of the frame? That's a very long seat post...
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I emailed the manufacturer and it is possible to order a frame without any decals except the AF01 on the top tube that you have to keep.
I also asked the same question using the contact form on their website, and Tina replied that they cannot provide the frame without decals. That's too bad because the large one is ugly. Who did you communicate with?
I was actually very close to purchasing the frame, but then the $100 discount code suddenly turned into a "free shipping" offer—while shipping was already free before. That felt a bit misleading.
Also, I did some searching and found that the journalists' quotes and names on their site appear to be completely fabricated. That comes across as sketchy.
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I have been communicating with Adam on whatsapp. I have purchased two other frames from Carbonda through him and I still ride them 5 years later.
Ill DM you a contact.
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Can I ask how tall you are and what is the size of the frame? That's a very long seat post...
178cm/5'10"... but with very long legs, this is a size M
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I know it officially clears 50s but really interested if you could squeeze 2.1 or even 2.2's in this frame.
I should get soon a 32mm internal rims wheelset for this bike with 45mm tires.
Depending on the space left, I could try a 2.1" to check.
They say you need at least 6mm between the tire and the frame.
But I have friends who ride with 45mm with their CFR-505 although it is set at max 42.
They accumulate more mud, and some debris scratches the frame a little but not so dramatic.
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I should get soon a 32mm internal rims wheelset for this bike with 45mm tires.
Depending on the space left, I could try a 2.1" to check.
They say you need at least 6mm between the tire and the frame.
But I have friends who ride with 45mm with their CFR-505 although it is set at max 42.
They accumulate more mud, and some debris scratches the frame a little but not so dramatic.
Generally pretty dry gravel here in Michigan. Can likely stretch that min clearance number for 90 percent of my rides.
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Hi carbonazza,
which size is your frame? Small or medium?
Best regards
Didi
I was lucky to get one at Eurobike ;D
The frame (a super light one), seatpost, and bars are from them.
SRAM XPLR Red for the transmission.
The wheels are from my CFR505, which is very sad being dropped after so many years together, and I will move to LightBicycle WG55 with carbon spokes.
I'll end up with 45mm tires, the frame allows 50
I just did a quick 50km ride in the woods nearby yesterday.
It is stiff, in a good way. It doesn't flex at all when pedaling hard, sprinting, or fast cornering.
And if feels more precise to handle. Even making a U-turn is easier.
As pictured, it is 7.8kg
If you are in Europe, one finding from this build is https://www.wielerkoopjes.nl/ and their sister site https://www.wheel-parts.shop/nl/.
They sell good OEM components, no fancy boxes, but great prices and excellent service.
For the name, yeah... there's a cultural thing here.
Darevie is another example of these out-of-nowhere words.
Initially, it did hurt my feelings, but now I'm starting to get used to it.
In any case, it's vinyl stickers.
I’m not a good photographer, so I took many pictures to be sure I got at least a few good ones 8):
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Hi carbonazza,
which size is your frame? Small or medium?
Best regards
Didi
Size M
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Hey guys, I emailed assisting force three times now, and I am yet to receive a reply. Did anyone else go through this? I even sent a mail to Carbonda, and the same result. I askeed for a few clarifications about shipment et al, but no one seems to be home. Should I wait, persist or just give up? I am really interested in the frame.
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I've talked to Adam from AF/Carbonda at Eurobike. I will send you his contact.
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Hey guys, I emailed assisting force three times now, and I am yet to receive a reply. Did anyone else go through this? I even sent a mail to Carbonda, and the same result. I askeed for a few clarifications about shipment et al, but no one seems to be home. Should I wait, persist or just give up? I am really interested in the frame.
I ordered mine last week via WhatsApp. I made the first exchange via the website's messaging service at the bottom left of the screen.
My contact's name is Raffael, but I imagine it's perfect if Insanetree gave you Adam's!
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I was lucky to get one at Eurobike ;D
The frame (a super light one), seatpost, and bars are from them.
SRAM XPLR Red for the transmission.
The wheels are from my CFR505, which is very sad being dropped after so many years together, and I will move to LightBicycle WG55 with carbon spokes.
I'll end up with 45mm tires, the frame allows 50
I just did a quick 50km ride in the woods nearby yesterday.
It is stiff, in a good way. It doesn't flex at all when pedaling hard, sprinting, or fast cornering.
And if feels more precise to handle. Even making a U-turn is easier.
As pictured, it is 7.8kg
If you are in Europe, one finding from this build is https://www.wielerkoopjes.nl/ and their sister site https://www.wheel-parts.shop/nl/.
They sell good OEM components, no fancy boxes, but great prices and excellent service.
For the name, yeah... there's a cultural thing here.
Darevie is another example of these out-of-nowhere words.
Initially, it did hurt my feelings, but now I'm starting to get used to it.
In any case, it's vinyl stickers.
I’m not a good photographer, so I took many pictures to be sure I got at least a few good ones 8): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1b45PRepiLBsEmhYl47EmzG9tmCGcI2TG
Would it be possible for you to measure the actual tire clearence on this frame 🤩?
Like, whats the measurement between chain stays at the part where the tires would be.
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Ordered mine last friday, size XL, ETD before 10.30 with custom painting. Received their new seatpost for AF01 seperately just earlier last month. 27.2*400mm, 189g with steel bolts(M6*30+M6*35) & alumium saddle clamps & base. 176g after titanium bolts & carbon saddle base swapped. Will get some pics later.
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Ordered mine last friday, size XL, ETD before 10.30 with custom painting. Received their new seatpost for AF01 seperately just earlier last month. 27.2*400mm, 189g with steel bolts(M6*30+M6*35) & alumium saddle clamps & base. 176g after titanium bolts & carbon saddle base swapped. Will get some pics later.
Hey, what color did you choose for custom painting? And how much did they charge you for it? Please post pics when you get your frame!
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I finally made up my mind - ordered the AF01SSL in UD carbon finish, size S.
Paid an extra $50 to have the decals removed from the downtube.
I’ve been communicating with Raffael.
It should ship by the end of the month - I’ll share my impressions once it arrives.
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I finally made up my mind - ordered the AF01SSL in UD carbon finish, size S.
Paid an extra $50 to have the decals removed from the downtube.
I’ve been communicating with Raffael.
It should ship by the end of the month - I’ll share my impressions once it arrives.
Thanks for your feedback, motaro1989. I'm in the same situation as you (except that I got the SL version). I placed my order on August 28, so I hope it will be delivered soon. Just out of curiosity, how tall are you that you got a size S?
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I'm 173 cm tall with a 79 cm inseam. I’ve found that sizing recommendations for road and gravel bikes run too large. Based on the geometry, this one should fit me well with a 70 mm stem and a few spacers. For reference, I usually ride a size M in mountain bikes.
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I'm 173 cm tall with a 79 cm inseam. I’ve found that sizing recommendations for road and gravel bikes run too large. Based on the geometry, this one should fit me well with a 70 mm stem and a few spacers. For reference, I usually ride a size M in mountain bikes.
OK, thank you very much for your reply! It was very very difficult to choose between the S and the M here . I've gone for an M with a height of 178 cm, an inseam of 83 cm and an 80 mm stem. I'll see how it goes .
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The top tube lenght is usally the limiting factor for me... i'm 177cm with 82-82.5cm inseam. If i bought a new bike today i would like to have ~540mm top tube with 70mm stem at max. Many gravelbikes gets a bit to stretched out too make room for tire clearance without toe overlap.
With my Spcycle G069 i have size small (~560mm top tube according to geometry chart, but real measured lenght seems to be less, maybe 552mm or so) but i only use 60mm stem, and handbars with 77mm reach. I could probably get even better comfort with handlebars with a little less reach, or a frame with a little shorter top tube. But that will be for next build.
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For those who have placed an order, do you have any news about a possible delivery date?
It's been 80 days for me, Pedaldanceur before reason saying not to count too much on the 90 days was right!
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142 rear hub? I am still waiting for a Boost/148 based gravel frame. I really want to be able to swap my narrow carbon rim based boost wheels into a gravel frame so I can standardize on one rear wheel size.
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For those who have placed an order, do you have any news about a possible delivery date?
It's been 80 days for me, Pedaldanceur before reason saying not to count too much on the 90 days was right!
I am sorry.. my telling if not trying it to serious is just based on my daily work. Before the development phase is finished and a series production is ramped up, so many little things can just crash the hole story.
But : it's only a matter of time. To cheer you up at least ;)
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For those who have placed an order, do you have any news about a possible delivery date?
It's been 80 days for me, Pedaldanceur before reason saying not to count too much on the 90 days was right!
I ordered a custom painted frame, and got quoted late November/early December shipping (contingent on painting happening sometime this month). The direct quote from 2 weeks ago is:
"We don't have any frames in stock yet, but we should be able to finish them soon. The reason is that we were in the pre-sale stage, and by now the frames we need to store in the warehouse are almost done. For standard paint jobs, we mass-produce and store them in the warehouse. For custom paint jobs, we store the frames in the warehouse first and then paint them when they are needed.
If you place an order now, our fastest batch of frames can be completed in early November, and the painting process will take about a month, with delivery at the end of November. (Of course, this depends on whether you need a custom painting or just a standard painting. We are currently trying our best to prioritize the completion of existing orders.)"
So, adding the usual 1-2 week delay time to this (which has been my experience with all of the several frames I've ordered, both from sellers directly and from Aliexpress), probably early-mid December. Of course, this relies on any of this info being accurate... only time will tell. I did get some pictures of at least one frame with a stock paintjob, so the bike does exist!
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The frame design has been updated with two additional bolts for the frame bag.
I’m wondering if there are any other changes.
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mine delayed to about mid-November, waiting for the livery to be done. Should be the first size xl i guess…
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Mine is finished. I love the UD carbon paint, but on some images it looks like plain gloss black paint. I guess it depends on the lighting.
Anyone knows what exactly is this seatstay brace for? I'm hoping it's not structural and it can be removed?
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Anyone knows what exactly is this seatstay brace for? I'm hoping it's not structural and it can be removed?
Should just be for fender mounting. Definitely not structural.
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Finally, things picked up speed for me too. It's ready to go. And yes, the transparent effect seems much more visible in the light, but overall it's gorgeous!
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Mine is finished. I love the UD carbon paint, but on some images it looks like plain gloss black paint. I guess it depends on the lighting.
Anyone knows what exactly is this seatstay brace for? I'm hoping it's not structural and it can be removed?
it's just a removeable universal bolt mount(for fenders/racks), same design just as on cfr707 and some other framesets so no worry. With this you can have the original mounts on the upper seatstay facing downward and invisible when not in use.
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what exactly is ud carbon paint? Is it just a clear coat on the finished carbon layup or actual paint? And does it make any difference in wear of the surface? As in, a proper painted frame more protective than a layer of just clear coat?
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I’m not really an expert on paint, but when I compare the photos with Parlee Taos videos on YouTube, it definitely looks like there’s paint under the clear coat.
Has anyone received a tracking number? My frame was supposedly ready for immediate shipping exactly 10 days ago, but I still haven’t received a tracking number. Things are moving very slowly.
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Has anyone received a tracking number? My frame was supposedly ready for immediate shipping exactly 10 days ago, but I still haven’t received a tracking number. Things are moving very slowly.
I think we are brothers in frame and deadlines. Mine was also ready to go days ago; normally it will be shipped by tomorrow :-X
EDIT: It's good on my side; I have the tracking number!
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mine delayed to about mid-November, waiting for the livery to be done. Should be the first size xl i guess…
I ordered a XL frame in July also, but did not yet got picture of a finished frame yet. Unfortunately, two weeks ago, they mentioned a paint issue and needed to rebuild the complete frame because of sand particles on the surface. Despite of this issue and because of the fact that they are in the series production ramp-up phase (issues like that are daily business in the composite production environment - until a certain series prod quality is reached), I still think they do a great job and look foreward to get the new frame.
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Good to know they are taking quality control seriously. Which color did you choose for your frame?
Mine should arrive tomorrow.
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Mine should arrive tomorrow.
Oh you're lucky. Mine was in Europe for a while, then it came back to Hong Kong, and now I think it's gone again. I'm hopeless :(
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That's weird. Have you tried tracking it with Parcelsapp or 17Track?
Mine "couldn't be delivered today due to force majeure" >:( ::)
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I ordered a XL frame in July also, but did not yet got picture of a finished frame yet. Unfortunately, two weeks ago, they mentioned a paint issue and needed to rebuild the complete frame because of sand particles on the surface. Despite of this issue and because of the fact that they are in the series production ramp-up phase (issues like that are daily business in the composite production environment - until a certain series prod quality is reached), I still think they do a great job and look foreward to get the new frame.
I designed a custom livery for my xl and one very special color in it(actually a high-vis reflecting layer like the ones on traffic signs for some small areas of the frame) became a super big issue so the proccess has been stuck on getting a right paint for that part for a very long time. I've seen the other colors ready on the frame without trouble already and the livery comes in a good shape mostly.If it goes well the frame would be ready about next week,but still donno.
I was alongside in the developement of this frame and contribute a little to the whole project so actually my frame went into order pretty earlier than most, but it's just that paint i choosed hampered it.
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I designed a custom livery for my xl and one very special color in it(actually a high-vis reflecting layer like the ones on traffic signs for some small areas of the frame) became a super big issue so the proccess has been stuck on getting a right paint for that part for a very long time. I've seen the other colors ready on the frame without trouble already and the livery comes in a good shape mostly.If it goes well the frame would be ready about next week,but still donno.
I was alongside in the developement of this frame and contribute a little to the whole project so actually my frame went into order pretty earlier than most, but it's just that paint i choosed hampered it.
Do you know why they changed the seat tube lenght later? In the first geometry charts the seat tube was already short but now it‘s even shorter which makes no sense because it limits the space in the frame triangle which is not ideal for bikepacking. Ultra short seat tubes are more a thing if using long travel dropper posts. But on a gravel bike? Do I miss somerhing?
Hope you will get your frame soon!
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Lmao those Chinese guys really need to hire some western dude to come up with brand names for them 😂
You are right but the name makes logical sense and is growing on me.
It isn't any more dumb that the popular big brand names. It actually makes more sense than a few of them.
Specialized ( Drab boring name )
Cervelo means brainy bikes
I can go on and on.
Western brand names aren't all that brilliant or outstanding, its just that people are used to them.
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For some unknown reason, my mind interprets their name as "Ass-Sting Farce"
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Do you know why they changed the seat tube lenght later? In the first geometry charts the seat tube was already short but now it‘s even shorter which makes no sense because it limits the space in the frame triangle which is not ideal for bikepacking. Ultra short seat tubes are more a thing if using long travel dropper posts. But on a gravel bike? Do I miss somerhing?
Hope you will get your frame soon!
the actual seattube length has never changed during the entire design phase. For some reason they mistaked few of the geo data with those of other things when releasing the geo publicly for the first time.
the main target is to get maximized comfort and full compatibility with drop posts through all size range. yes in some way you are right. it does have affects on frame bags though, i'm working on a full customized fidlock frame bag on that.
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...full compatibility with drop posts through all size range.
Funny, I had to buy a PNW dropper because my OneUp was too short :'(
No doubt the longer length of exposed seatpost will be more comfortable, but dropper compatibility with 27.2 posts, which have a maximum drop of 125 mm, isn't a great reason for such a short seattube. I would've liked to see 2-3 more cm to maximize bottle capacity and potential for framebags. Having both a very compact front triangle AND a bunch of bolts for framebags is a very puzzling combo.
In other news, my frame (and others, it sounds like) have been delayed in painting due to a lack of logo decals. Hopefully they restock soon, though I'm not anticipating getting the frame this year.
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My frame has arrived and so far I’m really happy with it. Both the frame and fork look premium in person.
The packaging was basic, but that’s not a big deal.
The frame has internal cable guides near the frame-storage area. Entry and exit points of those guides aren’t accessible so I’m not sure how to route the cables through them when i won't have the guide tubes.
The bolts aren’t attracted by a magnet, so they’re probably aluminum or titanium. I’m not sure how to tell.
For some reason the photos don’t show the UD carbon finish properly - it definitely isn’t just plain black gloss like it appears. On the website they managed to capture it better. Through the clear coat you can see the carbon joins, and in my opinion it looks cool. I’m sure it will look even better outdoors.
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My frame has arrived and so far I’m really happy with it. Both the frame and fork look premium in person.
The packaging was basic, but that’s not a big deal.
The frame has internal cable guides near the frame-storage area. Entry and exit points of those guides aren’t accessible so I’m not sure how to route the cables through them when i won't have the guide tubes.
The bolts aren’t attracted by a magnet, so they’re probably aluminum or titanium. I’m not sure how to tell.
For some reason the photos don’t show the UD carbon finish properly - it definitely isn’t just plain black gloss like it appears. On the website they managed to capture it better. Through the clear coat you can see the carbon joins, and in my opinion it looks cool. I’m sure it will look even better outdoors.
A much brighter light source directly to the surface would show the ud finish more clearly, you need a lot of light to let the carbon fibers reflect themselves.
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My frame has arrived and so far I’m really happy with it. Both the frame and fork look premium in person.
The packaging was basic, but that’s not a big deal.
The frame has internal cable guides near the frame-storage area. Entry and exit points of those guides aren’t accessible so I’m not sure how to route the cables through them when i won't have the guide tubes.
The bolts aren’t attracted by a magnet, so they’re probably aluminum or titanium. I’m not sure how to tell.
For some reason the photos don’t show the UD carbon finish properly - it definitely isn’t just plain black gloss like it appears. On the website they managed to capture it better. Through the clear coat you can see the carbon joins, and in my opinion it looks cool. I’m sure it will look even better outdoors.
Beautiful frame.
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My frame has arrived and so far I’m really happy with it. Both the frame and fork look premium in person.
The packaging was basic, but that’s not a big deal.
The frame has internal cable guides near the frame-storage area. Entry and exit points of those guides aren’t accessible so I’m not sure how to route the cables through them when i won't have the guide tubes.
The bolts aren’t attracted by a magnet, so they’re probably aluminum or titanium. I’m not sure how to tell.
For some reason the photos don’t show the UD carbon finish properly - it definitely isn’t just plain black gloss like it appears. On the website they managed to capture it better. Through the clear coat you can see the carbon joins, and in my opinion it looks cool. I’m sure it will look even better outdoors.
You say you can see the "carbon joints"; isnt the frame marketed as a "single true moncoque"? It should not have any joints. The joint yyou sspeak of, is it on the seatstays and chainstays? Please clarify because the monocoque construction is one of their USPs.
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There are lines visible where the carbon sheets connect, for example on the middle of the top tube and down tube. Some are not straight lines. Not on the seatstays and chainstays. Here are some quick photos taken under a strong flashlight. I believe it is monocoque.
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Thanks for the clarification! This and the lightcarbon is on my shortlist. If you have completed the build please share the feedback about ride quality. Also, how easy was the build? The original spec sheet said that it only supported a one-by groupset. This one shows a FD mount? So can we install a FD on there?
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Thanks for the clarification! This and the lightcarbon is on my shortlist. If you have completed the build please share the feedback about ride quality. Also, how easy was the build? The original spec sheet said that it only supported a one-by groupset. This one shows a FD mount? So can we install a FD on there?
FD mount have been added back on production versions. sram wide FD/shimano grx FD only though, you may have test if a normal road Cl FD would work(esp. check if the road chainring fits in without interference against chainstay)
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Mine arrived yesterday! It took a month between the day it was shipped (China) and the day I received it (France). The box arrived in poor condition due to the carrier in my country...
The frame is really beautiful in daylight. It won't be assembled until after the holidays, but the first test for large wheels seems to fit (about 0.6 mm on the sides).
Planned assembly:
AF-01 Standard Frame size M
Seatpot Assisting force
Canwin Aelous 400*700
SRAM XPLR 1X13 Groupset
Elitewheels gravel aero+ 45mm wheels
Schwalbe G-One RX Pro 50 mm tyres
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Beautiful frame-set. Have you weighed your frame and fork? Can you post these weights? thanks
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Super interested in what this looks like with nice large tires/wheels on it.
The smaller tires make the frame look a bit silly.
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Gravel noob here. How important are accessories like chain keepers and downtube guards for gravel bikes? Should i buy them with the frame too? I have read that a protective layer on the chainstay and bb area is good in case a chain falls.
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Gravel noob here. How important are accessories like chain keepers and downtube guards for gravel bikes? Should i buy them with the frame too? I have read that a protective layer on the chainstay and bb area is good in case a chain falls.
Chain keeper - no need for this if you're riding a modern groupset with a clutch, even a 2x groupset, unless you're planning on doing a lot of front shifting while bouncing around at speed.
Downtube guard - more dependent on your local conditions, likely unnecessary. I always put a layer of protective helicopter tape on my frames to avoid paint damage but impacts severe enough to damage a frame are extremely rare and, from what I've seen, basically limited to very high end frames with brittle carbon and thin tube walls (e.g. S-Works Crux). A thick downtube protector can also interfere with the water bottle mount down there. A chainstay protector is fine, though I also just use helicopter tape there to no ill effect, and it's much more aesthetically pleasing than a blocky black rubber protector imo.
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My frame is finally done with paint and should be shipped soon. Looks exactly like what I wanted, so I’m pleased. Hopefully I can strip down my old frame and build this one up in time to get some riding in before the weather becomes too bad in the mountains.
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My frame is finally done with paint and should be shipped soon. Looks exactly like what I wanted, so I’m pleased. Hopefully I can strip down my old frame and build this one up in time to get some riding in before the weather becomes too bad in the mountains.
This looks stunning.
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My frame is finally done with paint and should be shipped soon. Looks exactly like what I wanted, so I’m pleased. Hopefully I can strip down my old frame and build this one up in time to get some riding in before the weather becomes too bad in the mountains.
This is the chameleon color, right? How much did it cost you? Looks amazing. Please post photos when you get it.
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This is the chameleon color, right? How much did it cost you? Looks amazing. Please post photos when you get it.
Yup, chameleon blue/purple. The paint + no downtube logo was an extra $125, which is a little steep, but it looks like they did a very good job. The toptube and headtube logo color change was free.
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@Tijoe
Here are some weight measurements. For weighing, I did not remove the screws on the frame and cables that will be used for assembly, but I did remove the hatch from the large tube.
Standard AF01 frame: 1.2 kg
Fork (uncut): 501 g
Canwin handlebars 400 * 70: 307 g
Seat post with screws: 184 g
Rear axle: 39.9 g
Front axle: 28.5 g
Personally, I think the chain guard will be useful to me. I derailed on a nasty descent with my previous bike and the chain badly damaged the paintwork around the BB. But you you can prevent that with helicopter protective tape too indeed 8).
@frnchy the frame is magnificent!
I'll update with photos when it's assembled very soon!
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Well, looked what just showed up about 90 minutes ago...
(https://i.imgur.com/arJwCgnh.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9OZiUd0.png)
Complete album here: https://imgur.com/a/af01-pics-QMrbsyw
I didn't get a tracking number or notification that the frame was on its way, so this is going to be a short post as I need to tear down my old frame, clean all the parts, and build up the new one before Sunday when I have a scheduled group ride. Thankfully AXS is fully wireless, and the positions between this frame and my old one are so similar that I can probably just leave the entire cockpit assembled and swap it over, though I will have to deal with hoses, oh well. I might be able to leave the dropper housing in place which would be convenient. Seriously, don't run a dropper on a headset-routed frame...
Some notes:
- The paint quality is excellent. The molding quality also looks extremely good - I'm not poking around with the endoscope due to time constraints, but the entire downtube + headtube look perfect. The brake mounts and BB shell are also faced. There's a tiny bit of clear coat overspray on parts of the BB shell but 2 seconds with a knife and off it comes, so no problems there.
- The frame and fork screws are not set with rivnuts that protrude above the surface, so all the mounts are flush with the tubes. I don't really like this, as it invites paint damage since there's not much contact between the screw heads and the frame/fork. I'll be using some spare M5 titanium washers for load-bearing bolt installation (mainly the seattube bottle cage), and might switch to nylon ones if the paint gets marked up with installation.
- The downtube storage hatch is a tight fit with a rubber skirt around the edge, so it should be pretty weatherproof. The included bag is nice and slim and should be no issue, though I haven't packed it full yet. It looks like I can fit my packable jacket in there too which will free up a lot of room in my handlebar bag. Downtube storage sure is nice! The included multitool lives under the hatch, but I'm not using it, and the mount for it comes off when the (extra-long) bottle cage bolts are undone, saving some weight.
- There are molded-in channels on either side of the hatch to run cables/hoses through to keep them out of the way. Very convenient, but they're a little tight, so I don't know if I'll be able to run foam housing through the channels or instead use 2 segments, one on either side of the channel.
- A Soma Further 36oz bottle (the biggest bottle I use) doesn't fit on the seattube using the stock mounting holes, but I anticipated this and bought a slim bottle cage extender, and dropping the holes down about a centimeter allows the bottle to just barely fit. This is what I was most afraid about, so seeing this setup work is a big relief. A side-loading bottle cage is mandatory though.
- The included seatpost looks like it should be pretty flexy. I'm not using it on this frame but I might put it on my commuter bike.
- The seatclamp is branded QUICK, so clearly Carbonda is reusing their design from Quick Pro. I haven't heard anything bad about those clamps, so fingers crossed. The listed 8 Nm torque seems a little high, I'm going to start with 7 Nm which is what I've been using on my current frame to no ill effect. Again, a dropper makes life difficult.
I still don't know what the utility of the three rearward toptube bolts are, but I'm going to be plugging them with grub screws so they should be mostly invisible. Other than that minor gripe, my first impressions are all positive, and I'm looking forward to building this up!
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(https://i.imgur.com/9jgCQCgh.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VvdzDmAh.jpeg)
The build is done and I took it out for its first shakedown ride. Somehow I nailed the fit just by vaguely replicating the dimensions I measured from my G068, so I didn't even have to stop and adjust anything, and 7 Nm on the seatpost clamp is plenty. I don't really have much to say about the build process. Everything was completely fine (except dealing with the hassle of a dropper with internal routing, seriously, don't do it), all the surfaces were faced and all the threads were clean, hoses popped out where they should, it was great.
I do have a few notes about the frame, though:
- The only flaw I could find on the frame, or rather in the frame, is that the ends of the channels that divert cables/hoses around the downtube storage hatch opening have some excess resin from when they were bonded in, and this resin has cured to form mildly sharp bumps. They aren't big, probably only ~1 mm high (I can only feel them, there's no angle to view them), but it's necessary to use foam housing all the way up to the channel entrance to avoid potential hose damage. The channels aren't big enough to accommodate foam housing though (at least not easily) so some careful measuring is needed to get the foam housing length right.
- Part of my decision to buy this frame was that it listed 160/180 mm rotors - but this is only true for the frame! The fork is 140/160 mm!! I'm not too happy about that, but I can live with it for now. I bought one of the cheap 180 mm adapters off Aliexpress to see how that works, maybe I'll keep it, maybe I'll spring for the Peak Torque BBC ($75 though...). I also emailed them about this and they've corrected the frame specs on the AF website to be more clear, so kudos for a quick response there.
- The internal frame storage is somewhat limited - the included bag is good and is a snug fit, but no object longer than about ~3 inches can be put in the bag lengthwise, because the bag needs to be able to articulate to be crammed up into the downtube. It can't go down towards the bottom bracket because of the below-downtube water bottle cage rivnuts. The bag wasn't large enough to fully contain my (slightly overkill) tool kit, so I split the lesser-used tools into a separate ziploc that I wrapped in two shop towels and wedged beneath the hatch. This worked well and there were no noises even on some very washboarded dirt, and the bags haven't moved a millimeter. Unfortunately I can't put my jacket in the downtube, it won't fit unless I take it out of its protective sack and I don't want it to rip.
- There's no clean way to plug the hole by the bottom bracket for front derailleur cable routing. Ideally a little rubber plug would be included to patch this up, as I'm sure many, if not most, of the buyers of this frame will be running a 1x setup. I used some Sugru to seal the hole but a first-party method would be preferred.
Overall, it seems like I got what I wanted: nearly the exact same geometry and handling of my G068 but with superior manufacturing quality and a few additional features. And the fork doesn't creak!!! I only wish the seattube was a bit longer so I could've kept my OneUp dropper, PNW is not the same quality. Oh well, can't have everything...
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Videos just received from Wing showing the red and green transparent finishes.
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The build is done and I took it out for its first shakedown ride. Somehow I nailed the fit just by vaguely replicating the dimensions I measured from my G068, so I didn't even have to stop and adjust anything, and 7 Nm on the seatpost clamp is plenty. I don't really have much to say about the build process. Everything was completely fine (except dealing with the hassle of a dropper with internal routing, seriously, don't do it), all the surfaces were faced and all the threads were clean, hoses popped out where they should, it was great.
I do have a few notes about the frame, though:
- The only flaw I could find on the frame, or rather in the frame, is that the ends of the channels that divert cables/hoses around the downtube storage hatch opening have some excess resin from when they were bonded in, and this resin has cured to form mildly sharp bumps. They aren't big, probably only ~1 mm high (I can only feel them, there's no angle to view them), but it's necessary to use foam housing all the way up to the channel entrance to avoid potential hose damage. The channels aren't big enough to accommodate foam housing though (at least not easily) so some careful measuring is necessary to get the foam housing length right.
- Part of my decision to buy this frame was that it listed 160/180 mm rotors - but this is only true for the frame! The fork is 140/160 mm!! I'm not too happy about that, but I can live with it for now. I bought one of the cheap 180 mm adapters off Aliexpress to see how that works, maybe I'll keep it, maybe I'll spring for the Peak Torque BBC ($75 though...). I also emailed them about this and they've corrected the frame specs on the AF website to be more clear, so kudos for a quick response there.
- The internal frame storage is somewhat limited - the included bag is good and is a snug fit, but no object longer than about ~3 inches can be put in the bag lengthwise, because the bag needs to be able to articulate to be crammed up into the downtube. It can't go down towards the bottom bracket because of the below-downtube water bottle cage rivnuts. The bag wasn't large enough to fully contain my (slightly overkill) tool kit, so I split the lesser-used tools into a separate ziploc that I wrapped in two shop towels and wedged beneath the hatch. This worked well and there were no noises even on some very washboarded dirt, and the bags haven't moved a millimeter. Unfortunately I can't put my jacket in the downtube, it won't fit unless I take it out of its protective sack and I don't want it to rip.
- There's no clean way to plug the hole the the bottom bracket for front derailleur cable routing. Ideally a little rubber plug would be included to patch this up, as I'm sure many, if not most, of the buyers of this frame will be running a 1x setup. I used some Sugru to seal the hole but a first-party method would be preferred.
Overall, it seems like I got what I wanted: nearly the exact same geometry and handling of my G068 but with superior manufacturing quality and a few additional features. And the fork doesn't creak!!! I only wish the seattube was a bit longer so I could've kept my OneUp dropper, PNW is not the same quality. Oh well, can't have everything...
Thanks for the detailed frame preview! Between your frame and the other guy's glossy red finish, they really seem to be doing an amazing job with the painting.
From the early videos of the eurobike show, the downtube looked massive and they had a minitool and a small pump latched to the storage door lid and had shoved a bag up the tube. If you say there is not enough place for tools longer than 3 inches then the storage compartment is not really serving its purpose.
If they do not put the channels for brake hoses moulded into the frame, would there be more space for the storage bag?
Also, after you take it out for a ride, please tell us how it feels to ride.
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(https://i.imgur.com/9jgCQCgh.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VvdzDmAh.jpeg)
The build is done and I took it out for its first shakedown ride. Somehow I nailed the fit just by vaguely replicating the dimensions I measured from my G068, so I didn't even have to stop and adjust anything, and 7 Nm on the seatpost clamp is plenty. I don't really have much to say about the build process. Everything was completely fine (except dealing with the hassle of a dropper with internal routing, seriously, don't do it), all the surfaces were faced and all the threads were clean, hoses popped out where they should, it was great.
I do have a few notes about the frame, though:
- The only flaw I could find on the frame, or rather in the frame, is that the ends of the channels that divert cables/hoses around the downtube storage hatch opening have some excess resin from when they were bonded in, and this resin has cured to form mildly sharp bumps. They aren't big, probably only ~1 mm high (I can only feel them, there's no angle to view them), but it's necessary to use foam housing all the way up to the channel entrance to avoid potential hose damage. The channels aren't big enough to accommodate foam housing though (at least not easily) so some careful measuring is necessary to get the foam housing length right.
- Part of my decision to buy this frame was that it listed 160/180 mm rotors - but this is only true for the frame! The fork is 140/160 mm!! I'm not too happy about that, but I can live with it for now. I bought one of the cheap 180 mm adapters off Aliexpress to see how that works, maybe I'll keep it, maybe I'll spring for the Peak Torque BBC ($75 though...). I also emailed them about this and they've corrected the frame specs on the AF website to be more clear, so kudos for a quick response there.
- The internal frame storage is somewhat limited - the included bag is good and is a snug fit, but no object longer than about ~3 inches can be put in the bag lengthwise, because the bag needs to be able to articulate to be crammed up into the downtube. It can't go down towards the bottom bracket because of the below-downtube water bottle cage rivnuts. The bag wasn't large enough to fully contain my (slightly overkill) tool kit, so I split the lesser-used tools into a separate ziploc that I wrapped in two shop towels and wedged beneath the hatch. This worked well and there were no noises even on some very washboarded dirt, and the bags haven't moved a millimeter. Unfortunately I can't put my jacket in the downtube, it won't fit unless I take it out of its protective sack and I don't want it to rip.
- There's no clean way to plug the hole the the bottom bracket for front derailleur cable routing. Ideally a little rubber plug would be included to patch this up, as I'm sure many, if not most, of the buyers of this frame will be running a 1x setup. I used some Sugru to seal the hole but a first-party method would be preferred.
Overall, it seems like I got what I wanted: nearly the exact same geometry and handling of my G068 but with superior manufacturing quality and a few additional features. And the fork doesn't creak!!! I only wish the seattube was a bit longer so I could've kept my OneUp dropper, PNW is not the same quality. Oh well, can't have everything...
Thanks for the detailled description and all the pictures. Frame in the chaemeleon color looks absolutely stunning!
It's between this and the LightCarbon LCG071S-PRO for me. Very similar geometry, although the AF01 is a more compact frame
What did you use to replace all the mounting point screws? Also Sugru?
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From the early videos of the eurobike show, the downtube looked massive and they had a minitool and a small pump latched to the storage door lid and had shoved a bag up the tube. If you say there is not enough place for tools longer than 3 inches then the storage compartment is not really serving its purpose.
If they do not put the channels for brake hoses moulded into the frame, would there be more space for the storage bag?
Also, after you take it out for a ride, please tell us how it feels to ride.
The included minitool fits neatly in its holder under the hatch, and there's velcro straps to hold a mini pump there too, so I'm sure that configuration could work fine. My toolkit is more comprehensive because I'm usually riding in the mountains well away from any cell service or possible aid, so I keep enough on me to deal with most possible issues, but this is more voluminous than what I think the typical toolkit would be. The main restriction for the frame bag is the fact that it has to be put up into the downtube, as it can't go downwards due to fouling on the bottom bracket bottle cage mounts. Putting the bag into the downtube in this orientation thus interferes with the seattube bottle cage, which is why a lot of bag articulation is necessary to get around this obstacle. If the bag could be put downwards, or if there's no seattube bottle cage, then tools could be about as long as the hatch itself without causing issues.
The molded channels take up a little bit of room on either side of the hatch, but not very much, and the utility they provide is worthwhile as it would be awful to deal with hoses every time the bag goes in or out.
As for ride quality, it's very nice and smooth, maybe a little less stiff than my G068 - especially in the rear where there's ~35 mm more exposed seatpost. Handling is nearly identical, I would characterize it as being pretty much in the middle between road and truly progressive gravel. Not too much more to say; the geometry charts don't lie.
What did you use to replace all the mounting point screws? Also Sugru?
In the pictures I'm just using the old button head Ti bolts (and nothing on the fork), but they've faded and I wanted something more svelte, so I'm now using Terske bottle cage bolts in burnt blue. Pricy, but very well made and a good aesthetic match. They are too long to fit into the fork though - bottoming out with about 2 mm of thread left - so I took those bolts and hacksawed about 3 mm off the ends and now they fit great.
(https://i.imgur.com/L8VLQ5uh.jpeg)
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Just a quick request: could you upload the photos somewhere else or embed them here please? I’m in the UK and imgur is not accessible here anymore. I’d really like to see your finished project! Thanks
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Just a quick request: could you upload the photos somewhere else or embed them here please? I’m in the UK and imgur is not accessible here anymore. I’d really like to see your finished project! Thanks
Try this: https://postimg.cc/gallery/g8y9NPV
If that doesn’t work, a VPN to view the original images might. Given the state of the UK internet right now a VPN seems mandatory anyway.
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Looking great. Thanks!
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There are lines visible where the carbon sheets connect, for example on the middle of the top tube and down tube. Some are not straight lines. Not on the seatstays and chainstays. Here are some quick photos taken under a strong flashlight. I believe it is monocoque.
Hi! I was trying to get photos of complete bike for size "S." Could you please add more photos? What does it full look ?
I've been thinking about ordering one for a while, but I'm still unsure about the large sloping/short seat tube.
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I was lucky to get one at Eurobike ;D
Big thanks to my friend Carbonazza for letting me try his AF01 for a couple of days in the woods.
The ride left a real impression: incredibly reactive, giving that rare mix of speed with full control—precise when needed, yet very forgiving on rough ground. His setup with the LightBicycle WG55 wheels (32 mm internal, 45 mm tires) was a surprising upgrade compared to my beloved CFR505.
I had already seen the AF01 at Eurobike, but riding it in real conditions sealed the deal. That short test ride convinced me to place my order in the last week of December. Three weeks later, the first pictures arrived, and the frame is now on its way to Belgium.
Communication with Assisting Force (Carbonda) has been excellent throughout the whole process.
Can’t wait to get this frame built up and rolling.
PS: For those who prefer a clean look without the brand name, the builder is very flexible with frame‑sticker preferences.
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Hi! I was trying to get photos of complete bike for size "S." Could you please add more photos? What does it full look ?
I've been thinking about ordering one for a while, but I'm still unsure about the large sloping/short seat tube.
Of course, here are the photos!
With the adapter on the seat tube, a 950 ml bottle fits.
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Are there any Large AF01 complete bikes? Photos welcome
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Received my size XL frameset at last, would finish build this weekend.
Frame only 1037g without hanger/seatpost clamp, fork 444g.
Carbonda team have done all they can on the livery so a big thankyou to them.
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A few photos of the assembly. The lighting at the moment doesn't do the bike justice. I'll try to take better ones (and better framing) when the sun returns to this part of the planet.
I have to wait until a health issue is resolved before I can really ride it, but I'm really looking forward to it!
I do have one question, though: do you think it's normal for the derailleur to be so close to the first gear on the cassette (1 to 2 mm)? It's a 13-speed SRAM Rival XPLR.
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Did you shorten the chain according to the calculator?
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Did you shorten the chain according to the calculator?
Yep, I followed the SRAM process correctly with the right measurements. There are indeed 118 links, as indicated by the app.
It's very very close to the cassette, but it doesn't touch it. I just hope that the derailleur won't get caught in the wheel during difficult passages in the Disneyland forest. ;)
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It’s just an XPLR thing, my Rival setup is identical to yours (118 link chain and all) and it’s not ever been an issue in the 700ish miles I’ve put on this setup.
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It’s just an XPLR thing, my Rival setup is identical to yours (118 link chain and all) and it’s not ever been an issue in the 700ish miles I’ve put on this setup.
Thank goodness! This whole setup is new to me, so I wasn't sure... Thank you so much 8) !!
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Hi everyone, I’m running into a UDH / SRAM Full-Mount interface issue on my Assisting Force AF01 frame and want to check if others have seen the same.
What I’m trying to install: SRAM Rival XPLR rear derailleur using the SRAM Full-Mount bolt kit (UDH Full Mount interface/bushing).
Observed problem:
The outer planar/relieved contact area around the rear axle on the frame is too small (see picture), so the flange of the Full-Mount bolt does not sit fully on the intended machined seat. Instead, the bolt flange partially rests on the surrounding surface (paint/step), meaning it’s not a full 360° planar contact.
Measurements (frame vs. hardware):
• Frame’s machined/relieved seat diameter: 24.5–24.7 mm (structural material and paint hight around the machined seat = t = 0.3 – 0.7 mm, see picture)
• Universal UDH Full-Mount bolt kit flange outer diameter (supplied with frame): dia. 25.0 mm
• Full-Mount bolt flange outer diameter supplied with my SRAM Rival AXS derailleur: dia. 27.0 mm (dia. 25 mm dropped off 0.3 mm, see picture)
So I see two issues:
Even the 25 mm flange from the frame-supplied kit does not fully sit on the machined seat (because the seat is max 24.7 mm in dia.).
The SRAM UHD busing bolt with 27 mm outer flange and 25 mm inner 0.3 mm dropped off flange does not fit full face contact either. (circular, not even rectangular contact on the painted surface)
Concern: If the flange clamps on paint/step instead of a true planar seat, it may settle/creep under torque (35 Nm) and could affect alignment, clamping force, or shifting consistency.
Question to the forum:
• Has anyone measured the outer seat diameter around the axle / checked full flange contact for the Full-Mount bolt?
• Did your frame have a larger machined seat (≥25 mm)
• Any reports of the same mismatch?
• Or is this simply not an issue?? I have inserted the busing and held the derailleur on the frame, there is still enough enough gap around the derailleur direct mounting clamp…
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…
It’s definitely a bit small and there is some overhang off the rear, but in practice it’s been fine. No difference in shift quality between this frame and my previous one. Maybe if the derailleur got impacted from the front, the lesser contact area of the knurled ring on the inner face could lead to easier rotation, but this isn’t a situation I’ve ever encountered so I can’t say for sure. If it’s not marring the paint then I wouldn’t worry, though it is a bit out of spec.
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build finished , size XL full weight with pedals & mounts & some bolts 7.64kg
red xplr with force cassette
35c michelin pro5
Quite happy with the ride
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• Any reports of the same mismatch?
• Or is this simply not an issue?? I have inserted the busing and held the derailleur on the frame, there is still enough enough gap around the derailleur direct mounting clamp…
Hello Motosato,
I also experienced a problem fitting with the SRAM xplr 13-speed rear derailleur. I was unable to measure the frame dimensions accurately.
But I had to have the assembly checked by four different professionals, none of whom were able to fix the problem. It was impossible to adjust the derailleur properly without there being a shifting problem either on the first gears or on the last gears. Micro-adjustment couldn't change anything. I contacted Sram about it, but they weren't very helpful.
I tested it with another derailleur and it works just fine.
Perhaps the frame leaves little room for error... But this was a very strange situation.
Here's a photo, just in case. I'll take more precise measurements when I get the chance.
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Hi Folkes,
I was wondering why a lot of you choose the SSL frame over the regular? From research T1000 rides harsher in all cases and it isn't as durable if a crash should occur.
The SSL is only 150g lighter, Is it worth the extra money?
From my research T800 in the regular frame seems more suited for the purpose of a gravel bike.
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The combined frame + fork weight difference should be 200g.
I chose the SSL for the same reason people buy S-Works frames - I wanted the best option, and in this case the price difference isn’t that big. The SSL version is one of the lightest gravel frames on the market, and knowing myself, I would have regretted it if I had bought the heavier version.
I don’t believe the difference in harshness is noticeable, nor that one frame would fail in a crash while the other wouldn’t.
Here are some impressions after my first longer ride:
For front end comfort I’m using 70mm Redshift stem, and I’m very happy with how comfortable the bike is.
Seatpost comfort is great.
I’ve adjusted the handlebar position and replaced the big, ugly top tube bag with a smaller one because the rattling was terrible. Unfortunately, the smaller bag doesn’t fit my phone.
160mm cranks are a perfect fit for me.
I once saw an MTB marketed as fast, agile, sharp - and that’s exactly how I would describe this bike.
Also, no toe overlap issues. ;D
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Thanks for you reply.
I'm leaning towards the SSL
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Hello Motosato,
I also experienced a problem fitting with the SRAM xplr 13-speed rear derailleur. I was unable to measure the frame dimensions accurately.
But I had to have the assembly checked by four different professionals, none of whom were able to fix the problem. It was impossible to adjust the derailleur properly without there being a shifting problem either on the first gears or on the last gears. Micro-adjustment couldn't change anything. I contacted Sram about it, but they weren't very helpful.
I tested it with another derailleur and it works just fine.
Perhaps the frame leaves little room for error... But this was a very strange situation.
Here's a photo, just in case. I'll take more precise measurements when I get the chance.
My mentioned “problem” turned out not to be as critical as I initially thought. The “paint-free area” requirement is actually somewhat out of spec when compared to the SRAM requirement drawings (see attached document), but so far I have not experienced any issues while riding the bike.
The marked width of 12.5 mm was more or less within the correct range when I measured it on my frame.
The Full Mount derailleur design allows a certain degree of frame inaccuracy, since the relative position between the derailleur and the cassette is largely independent of small frame deviations. That’s why the Full Mount design principle is such a clever engineering solution and almost eliminates the need for manual derailleur adjustment. There is a chance that your derailleur is out of spec... Chain length correct?
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This is my first (gravel) bike build ever, so maybe I’m overthinking things a bit. What’s your impression of the general frame quality compared to large OEM frame sets? The price-performance ratio looks very good (I’m a composite engineer in the aviation sector, so yes… I tend to look at things a bit too closely).
That said, when I look at the wall thickness at the canvin aleous handlebar tube end, I’m not entirely sure I want to bomb down rough gravel at high speed if I can’t even mount the right lever properly (see attached pictures).
I stopped tightening the RH lever clamp bolt at 6 Nm (using carbon paste between clamp and bar). The lever is still slipping, which doesn’t exactly boost confidence.
Now I’m wondering whether the RH tube (if the wall thickness variations continue internally like at the visible tube end) might have suffered some local damage or even slight delamination. The small cracking noise I heard while loosening the bolt for readjustment didn’t exactly calm my nerves either. However, when doing a full push-down load test by hand on the handlebar, there is no noise or cracking, it feels solid and stable.
Maybe I’m just being overly sensitive — or maybe my engineering brain refuses to switch off.
Any thoughts?
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Putting all doubts aside ;D --> Preview of my beauty:
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This metallic finish is really beautiful...how is it called?
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I let my self inspire by the rose backroad (green goldish mix). I don't have any colour code.
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After months of planning, my gravel build is officially complete :)
AF01 SSL frame, fresh LightBicycle wheels, and 45 mm tires.
The whole setup comes in at 7.9 kg, as pictured, exactly as I hoped.
I’ve managed two 50 km rides this week—weather permitting in Belgium—and I’m honestly blown away.
It’s not just light and hyper‑reactive; it smooths out rough ground beautifully and feels incredibly forgiving.
Exactly the riding profile I dreamed of.
A couple of pictures below.
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This is my first (gravel) bike build ever, so maybe I’m overthinking things a bit. What’s your impression of the general frame quality compared to large OEM frame sets? The price-performance ratio looks very good (I’m a composite engineer in the aviation sector, so yes… I tend to look at things a bit too closely).
That said, when I look at the wall thickness at the canvin aleous handlebar tube end, I’m not entirely sure I want to bomb down rough gravel at high speed if I can’t even mount the right lever properly (see attached pictures).
I stopped tightening the RH lever clamp bolt at 6 Nm (using carbon paste between clamp and bar). The lever is still slipping, which doesn’t exactly boost confidence.
Now I’m wondering whether the RH tube (if the wall thickness variations continue internally like at the visible tube end) might have suffered some local damage or even slight delamination. The small cracking noise I heard while loosening the bolt for readjustment didn’t exactly calm my nerves either. However, when doing a full push-down load test by hand on the handlebar, there is no noise or cracking, it feels solid and stable.
Maybe I’m just being overly sensitive — or maybe my engineering brain refuses to switch off.
Any thoughts?
A cracking noise seems suspiciously like delamination, but Google is telling me the lever torque should be 6-8Nm, which is within spec. What does Assisting Force say?
As for the variations at the end of the bar, measure the tube wall thickness with calipers. I have a carbon seatpost that looks like that on the end and it's just tapering within the last few mm. The wall thickness is consistent.
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what's the tire clearance like for 50mm+ wide tires?
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The small cracking noise I heard while loosening the bolt for readjustment didn’t exactly calm my nerves either. However, when doing a full push-down load test by hand on the handlebar, there is no noise or cracking, it feels solid and stable.
Brake lever clamps (especially Shimano) can make a popping/cracking sound when you're tightening or loosening them sometimes. The clamp itself is a somewhat uniquely shaped "nut", washer, and a metal band, and the parts often make that sound as they settle into new tension amounts. Fingers crossed that's the sound you're hearing and not the carbon itself.
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I let my self inspire by the rose backroad (green goldish mix). I don't have any colour code.
I really like the color! Did they paint it? or you?
If they painted it, can you please ask them for the paint code information and share it?
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I am preparing to build up an AF01-SSL frame using flat bars and am looking at my headset options. Has anyone used anything other than the headset that came with the frame? The bearings look decent but the top assembly sits a good distance from the frame. It would be great to have some sealing.
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I really like the color! Did they paint it? or you?
If they painted it, can you please ask them for the paint code information and share it?
They did paint it. I sent an paint code request to the Assisting Force team.
During the manufacturing phase a got several messages saying that they have problems with getting the desired colour mix. I assume they did not identify the colour ID. But lets see.
Cheers
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A cracking noise seems suspiciously like delamination, but Google is telling me the lever torque should be 6-8Nm, which is within spec. What does Assisting Force say?
As for the variations at the end of the bar, measure the tube wall thickness with calipers. I have a carbon seatpost that looks like that on the end and it's just tapering within the last few mm. The wall thickness is consistent.
I hope that this is the case:) I have clampted the levers now with about 6 to 7 Nm, no cracking or any other strange noises occure. I did not found any specs published from Assisting Force. SRAM says 6 Nm.
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I really like the color! Did they paint it? or you?
If they painted it, can you please ask them for the paint code information and share it?
Assisting force:
"The green frame is YS-2221 and the black fork YS728"
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Is there any built AF01 in size Large? I would love to see some pictures. Thanks a bunch!
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To the 2by lovers: be aware that fitting 50mm wide tires (29x2.0) will cause problems with a front derailleur. In my case a eds tx front derailleur and race kings in 29x2.0 on elite wheels aero + rims with 30mm internal width. It just can't work because of the interference.
Even specialized pathfinder pros in 44c won't work on these rims as they build up to 46mm.
I'm pretty sad, as I bought the frame for riding 50mils with a 2by crankset.
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To the 2by lovers: be aware that fitting 50mm wide tires (29x2.0) will cause problems with a front derailleur. In my case a eds tx front derailleur and race kings in 29x2.0 on elite wheels aero + rims with 30mm internal width. It just can't work because of the interference.
Even specialized pathfinder pros in 44c won't work on these rims as they build up to 46mm.
I'm pretty sad, as I bought the frame for riding 50mils with a 2by crankset.
A flyxii FE-02 will fit 53 WAM tires with 2x SRAM and even more clearance on GRX, where chainstays become the issue. Wicked cheap, too.
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A flyxii FE-02 will fit 53 WAM tires with 2x SRAM and even more clearance on GRX, where chainstays become the issue. Wicked cheap, too.
flyxii fe-02(which is just flybike fm616 which is even older than cfr696 which is flybike fm696, all of which including af01 came from the same flybike factory from different eras and with different performances) comes with a 435mm CS, AF01 comes with a 425mm CS. 2x front derailleur issue & chainring size issue only occur when CS is short enough which old long & dumber framesets didn't have to care about.
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I doubt that anything over 45 mm will work with current SRAM 2by AXS. The issue is the external battery that is too bulky. I had a Red AXS on 435 mm CS and 45 mm was totally maximum and that only in dry conditions. The "old" wide front derailleur will maybe clear 50 mm but its EoL as SRAM only offers 1x13 in current groupsets.
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I doubt that anything over 45 mm will work with current SRAM 2by AXS.
At least AF/ carbonda is clearly stating that in the spec. 2x is stated with 45mm limit.
A bit sad, with 45mm it's not really a crazy difference to my 505 which allows for 42 with 2x
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Hi all, after riding my CFR696 for 6 years, the top tube got bumped and cracked. After much hesitation between going with a brand new complete bike and ordering the AF01, I finally ordered the AF01 Standard size M. Wing has been very patient and comprehensive with all my requests and questions. Order was placed on August 17th and the paint job was completed August 31st. I asked for matte black with the minimum logos also black. Il will be transferring most of the parts from my 696 to the AF01.
I was hesitant with the sizing but I found out that the AF01 size M and the Checkpoint 2026 size M have a very similar geometry except for the top tube slope angle. Not the same but on paper, it seems very close. I had the chance to try a Checkpoint so I'm pretty sure I got the right size.
More pictures to come when the build will be complete.