Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: SkylarRnD on June 30, 2025, 09:11:22 AM
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Ok, I have a 2010 Felt F5 that is now broken, could I fix it? Probably, but its maxed out at 25mm tires and I wanna run 30s lol
I looked up the measurements for the 2012 cause that's seriously the only info I can find on this frame, then I went and measured my actual bike for reference.
I am 188cm(6'2") with an inseam of 91.4cm. Arm span of 180cm. I ride 165mm cranks, currently have a 110mm stem with 75mm reach bars on 10speed Dura Ace group.
My Felt F5 'quick' dimensions are an Effective TT of 58, Actual is 56.7. Reach is 412. Stack is 569. I'm running ~25mm of spacers to bring the figures to: Reach 410, Stack 595....I think this is how that works with the spacers.
This Felt is moderately comfortable. I crit race on it, fast group rides, 2-3hr Zone 2 rides, etc...it was my daily. I dont get neck and shoulder pain, my hands dont get numb, my knee sometimes hurts and since going shorter cranks my lower back hasnt hurt nearly as much. I do have hip impingement issues from my femur. I stretch EVERY DAY to help this issue.
I am having a huge debate in my head for my next bike. Mainly around Stack and Reach figures in regards to spacers and stem lengths(also bar reach and new SRAM lever length).
Would you go smaller frameset, like a 56, drop 25-35mm of spacers on the steerer, have a shorter wheelbase, but also shorter reach? ...or Larger frameset, 58, maybe 0-10mm of spacer, 110mm stem length, and longer more stable wheelbase?
I like taking corners fast, I'm a Rouler style rider(according to Wahoo), local crits, I'm entered into our State Road Race(cat 4/5 hoping to get into 3/4 by the time the race comes around) and enjoy group rides.
Framesets I'm looking at: SPCycle R088, LCR017, and LTK266.
Ive got SRAM Dub spindle, I've read BB865 is an unwise choice for bearing size and Dub cranks.
Let me know your thoughts, opinions, concerns, etc please! TIA
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probably best to use bike insights modeling tool on this one. what is the angle of your current stem?
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5f13675a16935300171027d1,683e3f8e30ed45001a9a35c0,
a bike based on say a Tarmac SL7 or SL8 frame geometry in size 58 is going to be very similar to your Felt F5 except the stack will be higher so it would be slammed. if your want to go lower the question will be how much lower is comfortable for you to maintain in the aero hoods position?
a Canyon Aeroad in size L is also going to be quite comparable to what you have. Stem length limitations is the biggest problem with the Canyon's.
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probably best to use bike insights modeling tool on this one. what is the angle of your current stem?
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5f13675a16935300171027d1,683e3f8e30ed45001a9a35c0,
a bike based on say a Tarmac SL7 or SL8 frame geometry in size 58 is going to be very similar to your Felt F5 except the stack will be higher so it would be slammed. if your want to go lower the question will be how much lower is comfortable for you to maintain in the aero hoods position?
a Canyon Aeroad in size L is also going to be quite comparable to what you have. Stem length limitations is the biggest problem with the Canyon's.
I've never heard of this site, Ill have to spend some time on that. My current stem angle is -8deg
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nothing crazy with that stem angle. if anything you might be best served to start with lowering the stem on your Felt and see if you can comfortably tolerate a lower position. you might find that your current position is the correct position for you so matching that is the ticket. the Felt is a pretty low bike at the front end so those 25mm of spacers are more in line with a slammed stem on a modern geo bike like the SL7 / SL8, Madone Gen 8 etc in a 58cm.
getting low in the drops on most any size bike is pretty easy with elbow bend but being comfortable in an aero hoods position for a prolonged period is a much different task.
will you be transferring components or buying a new groupset? keep in mind that with the latest Shimano and SRAM lever hoods you will probably be stretched out a a little longer than your current dura ace. i had to factor that in when i switched from my Madone Gen 6 using original SRAM Red eTap rim brake to my SL8 using Di2 disc - much longer lever hoods which was offset by the handlebar reach being shorter on the Roval Rapide.
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will you be transferring components or buying a new groupset? keep in mind that with the latest Shimano and SRAM lever hoods you will probably be stretched out a a little longer than your current dura ace. i had to factor that in when i switched from my Madone Gen 6 using original SRAM Red eTap rim brake to my SL8 using Di2 disc - much longer lever hoods which was offset by the handlebar reach being shorter on the Roval Rapide.
I'm upgrading to the new SRAM E1 Force groupset, so I think the levers are about 15mm longer than my old DA levers. That is for sure playing a factor with stem length and handlebar reach.