Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: boulette on July 14, 2025, 03:53:14 PM
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Hi everyone,
I’m Samir, 45 years old, based in the Paris area, and I’ve been into triathlon for about 4 years now. I’m signed up for my first full IronMan (XL) in May 2026, so I decided it was time to step things up and get myself a proper time trial bike. Until now, I’ve been racing on a Tarmac SL7 with clip-ons – great bike, but clearly not ideal for long-distance tri.
So I’m opening this thread to share the full build process of my new TT bike, starting from the VB-TT-023 frame. My goal is to document the build, get some feedback if you're willing to share, and maybe help others thinking about a similar setup.
Here’s the spec I’m going with:
- Frame/Fork/Cockpit/Seatpost: stock VB-TT-023, raw carbon with matte clear coat, size M (based on Chris from Velobuild’s recommendation)
- Brake levers: SRAM S900 Aero HDR
- Shifters: SRAM Blips (wireless), both on the brake levers and extensions
- Rear derailleur: SRAM Red E1 eTap AXS
- Crankset: SRAM Force E1 AXS 1x12 aero (50T, DUB)
- Cassette & Chain: SRAM Force 10-33T + 12-speed Force chain
- Saddle: Fizik Transiro LD R3
- Wheels: 50mm carbon rims, DT Swiss 240s hubs, Sapim CX-Ray spokes
- Power pedals: Assioma Duo
Everything has been ordered and I should start the build in the second half of August, once I’m back from vacation.
In the meantime, I printed the great toolbox that was kindly shared by @mattgolt – photo below! Everything fits perfectly, really amazing work.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nLkm2uxxM2ONMxD2atdvutgn9W6LupYc
Looking forward to sharing updates and hearing your thoughts!
Samir
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Bonjour Samir,
Why did you choose this frame and not another one ?
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A unique frame. You can compare rims higher than 50mm
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Looking forward to seeing this!
Who did you contact at Velobuild? Have made a number of enquiries but not gotten a response
Thanks!
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Bonjour Samir,
Why did you choose this frame and not another one ?
Hi BeR
I’ve read here and there that this is a solid frame in terms of value and that the brand is quite reliable. I had shortlisted a few others (like Tantan, etc.), but I prefer the design of this one—it’s more conventional, which suits my taste better.
Some threads on this forum also helped confirm that it’s a good choice, and honestly, I didn’t want to spend too much more time hunting for an affordable frame.
Now it’s my turn to ask a question! 😄
Do you have any other TT frames in mind that you’d recommend?
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A unique frame. You can compare rims higher than 50mm
Hi Serenadebikes,
what do you mean by comparing rims ? You mean i should consider upgrading for higher wheels?
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Looking forward to the build.
Why did you pick this frame?
Assuming a typical weight and a zone 2 watts of 180-220W, 50T is too small, unless you really enjoy high cadences. I wouldn't run less than 54 in the front unless the course is very hilly. Likewise, if it's flat-ish that cassette will have jumps that are unnecessarily big, in the sense you'll probably find yourself missing in between cogs. You should "never" be in the smallest cog (last 2, really).
Hi Serge,
Thanks for your insights!
I chose this frame mainly because I liked the design, and the feedback from other builds convinced me that it offers great value for money. There might be better options out there, but honestly, I was looking for something reliable with solid vendor support—which seems to be the case with Chris, both from my own experience and from what I’ve read here and there.
As for the chainring, I saw your suggestion about going for a larger one, and I’ll probably consider it if I feel like I’m spinning out too quickly. Right now, I’m using a 50T with a Shimano drivetrain on my Tarmac (so 11T on the cassette), and at high speeds, I don’t really feel like I’m over-spinning. That’s what led me to this setup.
That said, I’ll be testing it around 230W, which is my targeted power for the upcoming 70.3 in September, and I’ll reassess if needed.
I'm also curious—why do you advise against riding on the smallest cog? Is it due to increased friction or something else?
Thanks again for all your valuable contributions across the forum—I’ve learned a lot from the many threads you’ve been active in!
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Looking forward to seeing this!
Who did you contact at Velobuild? Have made a number of enquiries but not gotten a response
Thanks!
Hi Blakeyt93
i got in touch w/ Chris by email and he's been very responsive. I'm surprised to read you had a bad experience with them. Was it pre or post sale?
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Hi Serge,
Thanks for your insights!
I chose this frame mainly because I liked the design, and the feedback from other builds convinced me that it offers great value for money. There might be better options out there, but honestly, I was looking for something reliable with solid vendor support—which seems to be the case with Chris, both from my own experience and from what I’ve read here and there.
As for the chainring, I saw your suggestion about going for a larger one, and I’ll probably consider it if I feel like I’m spinning out too quickly. Right now, I’m using a 50T with a Shimano drivetrain on my Tarmac (so 11T on the cassette), and at high speeds, I don’t really feel like I’m over-spinning. That’s what led me to this setup.
That said, I’ll be testing it around 230W, which is my targeted power for the upcoming 70.3 in September, and I’ll reassess if needed.
I'm also curious—why do you advise against riding on the smallest cog? Is it due to increased friction or something else?
Thanks again for all your valuable contributions across the forum—I’ve learned a lot from the many threads you’ve been active in!
Drivetrain efficiency is best when everything is aligned so 4-5-6-7-8is where you want to live most of the time.
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Crystal clear. Thank you very much Serge
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Enjoy the build and I hope everything goes well, as it seems you only have one month from frame delivery to the first race with it.
And let me know how the box fits!
Hint: I'm just designing a 3d printable behind-the-seatpost bottlheholder (similar to the huge canyon fin on the speedmax). Coming soon (if the tests go well)
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Hey triathletes,
I’m reaching out because I’m about to order my VB TT-023 frameset, but I’m hesitating between size S and M...
Chris recommended a size S, but I’m worried it might feel a bit tight.
For reference, I’m 1.72m tall with an inseam of 80 cm.
Do you have any recommendations or feedback based on your own experience?
Thanks in advance for your help!
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Enjoy the build and I hope everything goes well, as it seems you only have one month from frame delivery to the first race with it.
And let me know how the box fits!
Hint: I'm just designing a 3d printable behind-the-seatpost bottlheholder (similar to the huge canyon fin on the speedmax). Coming soon (if the tests go well)
Thank you so much — the box looks amazing and is already printed! I'm really impressed by the precision of the modeling. I can’t wait to see it mounted on the bike.
Admittedly, the timing will be tight before the race, but my real goal is the full XL triathlon in May 2026. The 70.3 in September is more of a final tune-up for the season before I start prepping for a marathon in December. So I have fewer expectations for that one compared to the big race next May.
I’m also looking forward to testing the seatpost bottle holder STL file once it’s ready. I’m happy to be your beta tester! 😉
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Hey triathletes,
I’m reaching out because I’m about to order my VB TT-023 frameset, but I’m hesitating between size S and M...
Chris recommended a size S, but I’m worried it might feel a bit tight.
For reference, I’m 1.72m tall with an inseam of 80 cm.
Do you have any recommendations or feedback based on your own experience?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Unfortunately, i have no experience w/ this frame yet and I have also asked Chris for recommandations.
I'm 182cm and 85cm inseam and Chris advised me to Pick the M up. Thats what i did.
W&S now, i hope i won't regret it
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Hi,
Also build a TT bike from that same frame set and couldn't be happier:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mE7LtKe21CTyAYtPoBpYAIpCF4da8K-i?usp=sharing
I did completely customize the TT base bar though, by cutting out my ow from a 4 mm thick carbon sheet, which brought the arm rests further forward and further apart. I also custom-printed two 12 cm high, one-piece spacers, as I prefer a much higher upper body position (and yes, I used extra long high-grade steel M6 bolts rather than the included, shorter M5 bolts). And I added a custom, 3D-printed aero-shaped 2-gel nutrition box underneath the base plate.
Best,
Martin
P.S. VeloBuild even shows it off on their product page now, albeit with an older version of the cockpit, using their base bar, not the one I eventually installed:
https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/vb-tt-023-new-t47-carbon-fiber-time-trial-frame-set-disc-integrated-cables
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Hey there!
This might not be a game-changer post, but I’m still really excited and wanted to share it with you.
I’ve ordered almost all the parts needed for the build, and I’m gathering them in my workshop while I wait to start the actual build process.
So far, I’ve received:
The crankset (though I’m a bit worried — it looks like the 50T chainring might not be removable, so upgrades could be tricky 😟)
- The two SRAM batteries + charger
- The Blips extensions/holders
- The Leap grip for S900 HRD
- The two SRAM S900 HRD brake levers
- The SRAM DUB BB T47 bottom bracket
Still waiting on a few key components: the frame (obviously), the cassette, the saddle, the Blips, the SRAM Red rear derailleur, the chainring, and a few other bits and pieces.
I'll keep you posted
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Hi,
Also build a TT bike from that same frame set and couldn't be happier:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mE7LtKe21CTyAYtPoBpYAIpCF4da8K-i?usp=sharing
I did completely customize the TT base bar though, by cutting out my ow from a 4 mm thick carbon sheet, which brought the arm rests further forward and further apart. I also custom-printed two 12 cm high, one-piece spacers, as I prefer a much higher upper body position (and yes, I used extra long high-grade steel M6 bolts rather than the included, shorter M5 bolts). And I added a custom, 3D-printed aero-shaped 2-gel nutrition box underneath the base plate.
Best,
Martin
P.S. VeloBuild even shows it off on their product page now, albeit with an older version of the cockpit, using their base bar, not the one I eventually installed:
https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/vb-tt-023-new-t47-carbon-fiber-time-trial-frame-set-disc-integrated-cables
Yes i have been through your build and posts about the base bar customization. GG mate, it's a very appealing bike now ! 😍
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Hi,
Also build a TT bike from that same frame set and couldn't be happier:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mE7LtKe21CTyAYtPoBpYAIpCF4da8K-i?usp=sharing
I did completely customize the TT base bar though, by cutting out my ow from a 4 mm thick carbon sheet, which brought the arm rests further forward and further apart. I also custom-printed two 12 cm high, one-piece spacers, as I prefer a much higher upper body position (and yes, I used extra long high-grade steel M6 bolts rather than the included, shorter M5 bolts). And I added a custom, 3D-printed aero-shaped 2-gel nutrition box underneath the base plate.
Best,
Martin
P.S. VeloBuild even shows it off on their product page now, albeit with an older version of the cockpit, using their base bar, not the one I eventually installed:
https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/vb-tt-023-new-t47-carbon-fiber-time-trial-frame-set-disc-integrated-cables
Do you have the reference for the BLIPS supports to put at the end of the extensions or is it a 3D homemade construction?
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Do you have the reference for the BLIPS supports to put at the end of the extensions or is it a 3D homemade construction?
Hi, yes:
https://leapcomponents.com/product/sram-s900-grip-shifter/
https://leapcomponents.com/product/sram-wireless-blips-tt-shift/ (newer version)
https://leapcomponents.com/product/sram-wireless-blips-45-degree-tt-mounts/ (older version, which is what I use)
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Seems like no one considers LTWOO ER9 TT Version? Interested on why so many are confident on cheaper china frames, but stick with well established and more expensive groupsets? Has Chinertown made bad experiences with the new LTWOO Version? Or is there simply too little data on it?
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Seems like no one considers LTWOO ER9 TT Version? Interested on why so many are confident on cheaper china frames, but stick with well established and more expensive groupsets? Has Chinertown made bad experiences with the new LTWOO Version? Or is there simply too little data on it?
I actually considered them, but couldn't find them anywhere online (I believe that when I looked, they were exclusively available to the Chinese home market only). Also, they still have an internally routed battery and I didn't want that.
Further, they don't sell them as 1x afaik. So you buy a front derailleur you don't end up using.
And: their groupset is not necessarily that much cheaper or potentially even more expensive, especially if you look 2nd hand (which I did) or mix&match with Rival or even Apex components. For TT bikes, weight doesn't really matter, so my TT bike actually uses an Apex crank set (with power meter, which Ltwoo doesn't have) and a Rival rear derailleur. You don't really need Force or even Red on a TT bike, unless you are a pro.
The other reasons? I already had a spare SRAM cassette, spare SRAM wireless blips and a spare SRAM crankset, plus my other 4 bikes all use SRAM components (so I can mix chains, batteries, etc.).
It's not always as black and white as it seems.
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Seems like no one considers LTWOO ER9 TT Version? Interested on why so many are confident on cheaper china frames, but stick with well established and more expensive groupsets? Has Chinertown made bad experiences with the new LTWOO Version? Or is there simply too little data on it?
I must admit i had no clue about chinese grousets.
Reading the above in any case that doesnt seem to suit my choice. I didnt want internal cabling, thats why i switched to SRAM.
I'll have a deeper look at it by curiosity tho'
Thanks
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I must admit i had no clue about chinese grousets.
Reading the above in any case that doesnt seem to suit my choice. I didnt want internal cabling, thats why i switched to SRAM.
I'll have a deeper look at it by curiosity tho'
Thanks
There is also Wheeltop, which doesn't have internal batteries, but afaik they don't have a TT-specific group set yet. But very good options for road and gravel.
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Seems like no one considers LTWOO ER9 TT Version? Interested on why so many are confident on cheaper china frames, but stick with well established and more expensive groupsets? Has Chinertown made bad experiences with the new LTWOO Version? Or is there simply too little data on it?
Multiple reasons:
1. More TT bikes are used specifically for events, so reliability and urgent availability of spares is critical.
2. If you only want 1x, SRAM is very cheap as you need are blips, RD, battery and charger.
3. Not much availability of L-Twoo TT groupset yet.
4. Wiring of TT bikes can be a huge pain so fully wireless is a plus.
Wheeltop also an option if you use the MTB shifter and derailleur, but it's a similar price to a SRAM 1x setup.
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Multiple reasons:
1. More TT bikes are used specifically for events, so reliability and urgent availability of spares is critical.
2. If you only want 1x, SRAM is very cheap as you need are blips, RD, battery and charger.
3. Not much availability of L-Twoo TT groupset yet.
4. Wiring of TT bikes can be a huge pain so fully wireless is a plus.
Wheeltop also an option if you use the MTB shifter and derailleur, but it's a similar price to a SRAM 1x setup.
Pretty much this. Sram is easy and super cheap for 1x. Ltwoo has barely been seen anywhere. I see 1 listing on ali for over 1000USD for the er9 version. It does look like di2 road where the shifters are wireless which is better than shimano di2 tt where they are not.
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Enjoy the build and I hope everything goes well, as it seems you only have one month from frame delivery to the first race with it.
And let me know how the box fits!
Hint: I'm just designing a 3d printable behind-the-seatpost bottlheholder (similar to the huge canyon fin on the speedmax). Coming soon (if the tests go well)
Can you share your toolbox project?
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Can you share your toolbox project?
Hey there,
It's over in the other VB TT-023 thread. Here you go.
Be mindful: Just yesterday it has surfaced that this toolbox only fits the L frame. I'm now looking for Guinea pigs that have the S and M frame and can send me detailed photos so I can adapt the toolbox for these frames (possible some failed prints involved).
Yo yo yo
3D printable box version 2 is out! Took some suggestions from the forum into consideration, so here you go if anyone wants it. Main improvments:
- Better fit to the frame, as I took some time to model the geometry of the frame
- Can be used with an aero bottleholder in the frame
- Lid is held on with a pin (because I lost the lid of the old box several times ::) )
Link to new box: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7073969 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7073969)
Happy to take input for version 3 from all of you!
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Be mindful: Just yesterday it has surfaced that this toolbox only fits the L frame. I'm now looking for Guinea pigs that have the S and M frame and can send me detailed photos so I can adapt the toolbox for these frames (possible some failed prints involved).
My frame has been sent end of last week, i should receive it by one week or two. I'll let you know once received (Size M)
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Seems like no one considers LTWOO ER9 TT Version? Interested on why so many are confident on cheaper china frames, but stick with well established and more expensive groupsets? Has Chinertown made bad experiences with the new LTWOO Version? Or is there simply too little data on it?
well, have you seen people dnf because of a faulty chinese frame?
Ltwoo is know for alot, surely not for their quality and reliability...
you simply cannot compare ltwoo with most of the chinese carbon makers...
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I mean you can read the 100 pages of the ERX/ER9 thread. Many issues with charging and dying derailleurs. When it works it works great but it is a pain if it fails. I think the latest versions have had better reviews and the gravel group have had good reviews as well, but relying on it for a big race vs a day to day bike is a big difference. Also, the pricing just isn't all that great.
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eTT finally showing up at good price paired with eR9 front and rear derailleur:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMNHnLJ
Now if they could replace one of the end bar blipper by a dummy and remove the FD and offer that 1x set up for 450$ that would be some crazy value, with coupon it would be 400-410 delivered!
With the VB TT frame, a set of 80mm deep wheels, a nice set up could be on the road for $3000. I have 0 need for that but would still like one!
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Hi everyone,
I’m Samir, 45 years old, based in the Paris area, and I’ve been into triathlon for about 4 years now. I’m signed up for my first full IronMan (XL) in May 2026, so I decided it was time to step things up and get myself a proper time trial bike. Until now, I’ve been racing on a Tarmac SL7 with clip-ons – great bike, but clearly not ideal for long-distance tri.
So I’m opening this thread to share the full build process of my new TT bike, starting from the VB-TT-023 frame. My goal is to document the build, get some feedback if you're willing to share, and maybe help others thinking about a similar setup.
Here’s the spec I’m going with:
- Frame/Fork/Cockpit/Seatpost: stock VB-TT-023, raw carbon with matte clear coat, size M (based on Chris from Velobuild’s recommendation)
- Brake levers: SRAM S900 Aero HDR
- Shifters: SRAM Blips (wireless), both on the brake levers and extensions
- Rear derailleur: SRAM Red E1 eTap AXS
- Crankset: SRAM Force E1 AXS 1x12 aero (50T, DUB)
- Cassette & Chain: SRAM Force 10-33T + 12-speed Force chain
- Saddle: Fizik Transiro LD R3
- Wheels: 50mm carbon rims, DT Swiss 240s hubs, Sapim CX-Ray spokes
- Power pedals: Assioma Duo
Everything has been ordered and I should start the build in the second half of August, once I’m back from vacation.
In the meantime, I printed the great toolbox that was kindly shared by @mattgolt – photo below! Everything fits perfectly, really amazing work.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nLkm2uxxM2ONMxD2atdvutgn9W6LupYc
Looking forward to sharing updates and hearing your thoughts!
Samir
Just a small update
the frame has arrived in France last week and is about to be cleared by customs (hopefully).
I have finally changed my mind regarding the wheels.
The front one will be my current 50mm but i have ordered a rear wheel from DFS Wheel after having discussed quite a lot with them and having read many positive feedbacks.
I'll go for a 88mm + R2 hub + Sapim CX_Ray spokes.
I should be able to start the build by a week or so (depending on the custom clearance).
We keep in touch
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Hi,
I received the frame this week.
I need to deep inspect it, but it looks in a good shape.
I love the look and feel and raw carbon looks beautiful.
I cant wait to build and ride it
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Hi all,
a little update from my build which unfortunately, for personal reason, doesn't progress as fast as i would want.
WheelSet
I just received my rear wheel from DFS Carbon Wheel (highly recommended so far), and it looks fantastic, much nicer than my first set of Chinese wheels, which I was already very happy with. The look, the feel, the texture… everything is spot on.
I’ll definitely be ordering the front wheel as soon as I get the chance to ride again. Shoutout to DFS ;-)
I ordered one for me and one for a friend of mine who's riding a legit Scott Foil.
He's been able to ride it and is so happy w/ it that he convinced me to buy the front one (60mm)
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Bike Build & Testing
The build itself is kinda straight forward process. However, i've been through few issues that i've been able to take over by myself or thanks to Chris very precious help (he's very responsive & always propose a workaround once required).
As part of the issue i noticed and would want to share w/ you all
1. Rear brake caliper adjustment: Installing it without the rotor touching the brake pads was quite challenging. It took me several hours to fine-tune the setup. I also had to sand the pads slightly to avoid small scratches at some point — I don’t think it affected performance, but I wasn’t happy to hear it.
2. Screws tightening torque: No instructions were provided. Except for a few parts where the torque values are indicated, there’s no way to know exactly how tight the screws should be. This led to quite a bit of trial and error, especially for the stem, fork, and seat post, as I didn’t want to damage the carbon by over-tightening. I’m still not 100% sure that the torque is correct at this point.
3. Rubber plugs for stem: They don’t stay in place — even a light touch is enough to make them fall out and get lost. It's not critical but will leave the stem w/ wholes which is not optimal & doesn't look good.
4. No bike computer holder/bracket: This is a real shame. The bike design is great and efficient, and the stock TT handlebar is excellent compared to other TT bikes. The only downside is the lack of a bike computer mount. If you want to install one, you have to figure it out yourself either by designing your own bracket (which I’m doing) or by purchasing a third-party adapter. I might be dreaming, but I feel it would be logical for Velobuild to offer, even as an upgrade, an official option for this.
My First Riding Impressions
After testing the bike about ten times on a home trainer (though not always on the aero bars, as it’s really hard to hold that position for hours), I finally had the chance to ride it outdoors (65km) under optimal conditions: smooth road, light wind, and almost no traffic.
The bike feels very stable. It’s stiff without being harsh or overly rigid.
Not being very accustomed to riding in an aero position (I had aero bars on my Tarmac SL7 for two or three months, but I’m not a specialist in the discipline), I quickly noticed some discomfort in my neck, and more notably, the onset of a headache and eye strain. The cockpit is too low, forcing me to lift my head significantly and tilt my gaze upward.
I made a few adjustments to the saddle rail position and saddle height, but it clearly wasn’t enough. The drop is too high even with the saddle at its lowest height and the cockpit at its highest one.
I contacted Chris, who helped me design larger spacers and source the correct screws in the right dimensions.
I tested by raising the cockpit height by 25 mm, which improved comfort significantly, but I feel that an additional 10 to 20 mm would make it perfect.
I’ve therefore printed spacers to the correct dimensions and ordered two sets of longer screws to continue testing when I return to France (likely mid-next week). Currently in PLA w/ Carbon fiber, i'll print the final version in PETG once the final height is found
I’ll keep you updated. In the meantime, here are my impressions and some photos of the setup.
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Designing a Bike Computer Bracket & BTA Bottle Cage
I’m currently working on designing an adapter that will allow me to install a bike computer and a bottle cage between the aero bars. My design is inspired by various existing models, such as Aerogain and others.
I have no certainty whether it will work or withstand mechanical stresses, but I definitely want to test it myself (almost for free) rather than purchasing a product from a vendor.
Before leaving France, I spent a few hours drafting these parts with the correct dimensions. I’ll share updates once it’s done — I’ve already designed the bike computer support as a separate part, though I didn’t take a screenshot of it yet.
To the design experts: if you foresee any obvious mechanical issues with my current design, please don’t hesitate to share your thoughts. I have no prior experience in designing or drafting — I’ve only been experimenting with SketchUp Pro for two or three months.
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nice work, bike looks freaking fast standing still.
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Nice build!
did you get the toolbox from @mattgolt ?
I wonder if buying the winow TT handlebar instead of the stock would be more confortable?
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Nice build!
did you get the toolbox from @mattgolt ?
I wonder if buying the winow TT handlebar instead of the stock would be more confortable?
Yes, thats its toolbox indeed.
The handlebar itself is pretty comfy, my concern is about the bike fit
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Hi there,
it's moving forward and i wanted to share the progression since last post.
Did a one-day round trip and managed to test the new spacers for my cockpit setup.
In the end, I raised it by 4.5 cm above the maximum height possible with the stock spacers. I printed them in PETG Carbon, and the finish looks absolutely stunning.
==> I’ll now go for a single-block print at the full height. The result feels much more in line with the handlebar design.
On another note, I finally installed my new 88mm rear wheel from DFS Carbon Wheels, built with an R2 ceramic hub (i love the sound) and Sapim CX-Ray spokes. I really love the look, and I’ve already ordered the matching 60mm front wheel for balance.
To complete the setup, I also ordered two aero bottle cages on AliExpress, which will go perfectly with Matt’s toolbox.
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I'm almost done w/ the BTA bottle cage + Garmin mount design & modeling.
I'll print & test it mid of next week
There will most likely be some adjustments & design improvement later on.
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What bottom bracket did you end up using?
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What bottom bracket did you end up using?
Sram t47
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Hello Boulete,
I built two of these bikes last year, one for myself and another for a friend, and I also ordered a third one for another friend (he will assemble it with a mechanic in Brazil).
Let me share a bit of my experience.
Regarding the spacers: I initially built the first two bikes (mine and my friend’s) for a 70.3 race here in Italy, and we both had the problem of the front end being too low. After the race, I contacted Chris and asked for two spacer kits with bolts to raise the front end up to 9 cm. He supplied all the material quickly. For the third bike, which is for a very tall friend, I requested from the start to raise it 12 cm, and the kit was sent perfectly.
About raising the front end only with spacers: there’s a risk we reach a point where the system starts to become fragile. Ideally, there should be a stem designed in different lengths and heights. (I’m thinking about trying to design those parts myself later, but I don’t know if 3D printing would be the solution—it would need testing).
I assembled mine with Shimano Di2, and it was chaos to route all the cables, so for a new build I strongly recommend what you did—SRAM all the way.
For the finishing of the blips on the aerobar and handlebar, check out a company called LEAP. They make amazing products.
For the Garmin mount, I simply bought a generic aluminum one on Aliexpress and screwed it onto the central bar between the two aerobars. Does it work? Yes! Is it pretty? No!
I even sketched out a design of a piece very similar to yours to replace the stock metal one. My idea was to make it CNC-machined in metal, longer so that I’d have more options for positioning the aerobars further forward, with an extension in the middle to mount both the bottle and another Garmin holder. I also thought about the 3D-printing option, but again, I don’t know the resistance level a printed part would have. For your design, I recommend adding grooves or ridges to the flat sections to generate more strength. A plain flat surface will be weak. At the joints where segments meet, always keep rounded corners—never sharp ones.
Regarding the holes in the stem, I work in a bicycle factory here in Italy, and I could send you two plugs to cover them, free of charge—you’d only need to pay for shipping. Or I could send you a picture of what they are, and you can check if you can find them in a bike shop over there.
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Hello Boulete,
I built two of these bikes last year, one for myself and another for a friend, and I also ordered a third one for another friend (he will assemble it with a mechanic in Brazil).
Let me share a bit of my experience.
Regarding the spacers: I initially built the first two bikes (mine and my friend’s) for a 70.3 race here in Italy, and we both had the problem of the front end being too low. After the race, I contacted Chris and asked for two spacer kits with bolts to raise the front end up to 9 cm. He supplied all the material quickly. For the third bike, which is for a very tall friend, I requested from the start to raise it 12 cm, and the kit was sent perfectly.
About raising the front end only with spacers: there’s a risk we reach a point where the system starts to become fragile. Ideally, there should be a stem designed in different lengths and heights. (I’m thinking about trying to design those parts myself later, but I don’t know if 3D printing would be the solution—it would need testing).
I assembled mine with Shimano Di2, and it was chaos to route all the cables, so for a new build I strongly recommend what you did—SRAM all the way.
For the finishing of the blips on the aerobar and handlebar, check out a company called LEAP. They make amazing products.
For the Garmin mount, I simply bought a generic aluminum one on Aliexpress and screwed it onto the central bar between the two aerobars. Does it work? Yes! Is it pretty? No!
I even sketched out a design of a piece very similar to yours to replace the stock metal one. My idea was to make it CNC-machined in metal, longer so that I’d have more options for positioning the aerobars further forward, with an extension in the middle to mount both the bottle and another Garmin holder. I also thought about the 3D-printing option, but again, I don’t know the resistance level a printed part would have. For your design, I recommend adding grooves or ridges to the flat sections to generate more strength. A plain flat surface will be weak. At the joints where segments meet, always keep rounded corners—never sharp ones.
Regarding the holes in the stem, I work in a bicycle factory here in Italy, and I could send you two plugs to cover them, free of charge—you’d only need to pay for shipping. Or I could send you a picture of what they are, and you can check if you can find them in a bike shop over there.
Waow, such an exhaustive review.
Thank you so much for your feedback & valuable insights.
The spacers are printed in PETG with Carbon fiber, which is really strong and compression resistant. Not flexible at all, but strong.
Obviously, i can't extend it much more and at some point i'll reach out a fragile ish point, but i trust this setup so far.
Regarding the support, could you be more specific when you say to avoid flat surface? a picture would help me to understand.
I think i read that stem cable routing is a mess on this stem, and that i better to go to SRAM (historically i'm an absolute shim fan), and the built video on YT also points this out. That's why i went to SRAM to be honest.
Thank you for proposing the 2 stem hole caps, it's adorable to you, i really appreciate. I'll figure it out don't worry. That's just too bad the stem is designed this way. I don't even know what those holes are done for?
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Final print for the handlebar spacer. I love the look and feel, it completely matches w/ the stem aspect
I'm currently printing the bottle cage & bike computer holder prototype to see if mechanically it's a smooth integration on stem or if i need to do design changes.
Will keep you posted
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I don't even know what those holes are done for?
I use then to shimano di2 cables from the blip buttons.
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that is the plug
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Regarding the support, could you be more specific when you say to avoid flat surface? a picture would help me to understand.
When you have a flat surface it tends to be flexible (bear in mind I don’t know what your internal design looks like). So, to reduce flexibility and increase strength in one direction, if you make the surface with a crease, folds, or corrugations it will become much more resistant in that direction. Of course everything depends on your design and on how it will be printed. I’ll try to add a drawing below.
But of course it may be that, because of the thickness of your part, the assembly already has enough strength and doesn’t need any customisation. The example I drew would apply to thin-wall parts.
if it's thick enough you can make like honeycomb hexagon inside
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Gotcha
Thanks, i'll try to add liner bars behind on the surface that doesnt sit on the stock plate
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Hi, Samir
I'm also living near Paris, and ordered a frameset that should arrive early november...
I read your thread with great interest, and asked Chris to add some spacers, just in case... i'm 181cm/89 inseam and chose a M-sized frame, so it might be useful...
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Hello Boulete,
I built two of these bikes last year, one for myself and another for a friend, and I also ordered a third one for another friend (he will assemble it with a mechanic in Brazil).
Let me share a bit of my experience.
Regarding the spacers: I initially built the first two bikes (mine and my friend’s) for a 70.3 race here in Italy, and we both had the problem of the front end being too low. After the race, I contacted Chris and asked for two spacer kits with bolts to raise the front end up to 9 cm. He supplied all the material quickly. For the third bike, which is for a very tall friend, I requested from the start to raise it 12 cm, and the kit was sent perfectly.
About raising the front end only with spacers: there’s a risk we reach a point where the system starts to become fragile. Ideally, there should be a stem designed in different lengths and heights. (I’m thinking about trying to design those parts myself later, but I don’t know if 3D printing would be the solution—it would need testing).
I assembled mine with Shimano Di2, and it was chaos to route all the cables, so for a new build I strongly recommend what you did—SRAM all the way.
For the finishing of the blips on the aerobar and handlebar, check out a company called LEAP. They make amazing products.
For the Garmin mount, I simply bought a generic aluminum one on Aliexpress and screwed it onto the central bar between the two aerobars. Does it work? Yes! Is it pretty? No!
I even sketched out a design of a piece very similar to yours to replace the stock metal one. My idea was to make it CNC-machined in metal, longer so that I’d have more options for positioning the aerobars further forward, with an extension in the middle to mount both the bottle and another Garmin holder. I also thought about the 3D-printing option, but again, I don’t know the resistance level a printed part would have. For your design, I recommend adding grooves or ridges to the flat sections to generate more strength. A plain flat surface will be weak. At the joints where segments meet, always keep rounded corners—never sharp ones.
Regarding the holes in the stem, I work in a bicycle factory here in Italy, and I could send you two plugs to cover them, free of charge—you’d only need to pay for shipping. Or I could send you a picture of what they are, and you can check if you can find them in a bike shop over there.
Hi Maliba,
I just read your post about the chaos to route cable inside the frame. I'm actually thinking and listing all the parts to build this frame beginning of next year. I was thinking to build it with a shimano 105, because i want a double front rotor (can be discussed by everybody, but i prefer to climb on an easy way with a 34 or 36 rotor, instead of a solo 48 or 50)
And why a mecanical rather than electronic, 1st -> budget, 2nd -> i like "old schools" things :D
Do you think it's possible to route it ?
Thank you
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Hi Maliba,
I just read your post about the chaos to route cable inside the frame. I'm actually thinking and listing all the parts to build this frame beginning of next year. I was thinking to build it with a shimano 105, because i want a double front rotor (can be discussed by everybody, but i prefer to climb on an easy way with a 34 or 36 rotor, instead of a solo 48 or 50)
And why a mecanical rather than electronic, 1st -> budget, 2nd -> i like "old schools" things :D
Do you think it's possible to route it ?
Thank you
Good morning,
Let’s go step by step: according to Chris from Velobuild, the frame allows for a mechanical setup (I’ll comment more on that later).
If it were electronic, both SRAM and Shimano can be installed with a double chainring (standard).
Shimano electronic TT builds are quite tricky, because Shimano never produced components for a fully wireless 12-speed TT group. In other words, on the rear side of the bike you have all the Shimano 12v Di2 components (rear derailleur, front derailleur, and battery) — you set them up just like on a road bike. Then you need to add a third 12v electronic cable into the third port of the battery. This cable connects to a junction that converts 12v into 11v (the cables are very different). From that point on, everything will be wired with the older 11v standard cables.
At that junction, another 11v cable runs into a 4-port junction box (there are some models with 5 ports, but I used the 4-port because it’s much smaller). Out of the 4 ports, one will already be occupied by the cable coming from the battery that converted 12v into 11v. I then ran a single cable to each blip on the aerobar, and used a Y-cable for the brake levers. Here’s the catch: with this configuration I had a hard time fitting the stem into the fork and frame, because the Y-cable got in the way.
So, I routed the Y-cable to the brake levers inside the handlebar, plugged it into a junction (which I tucked inside the handlebar), and from there I ran just one long cable into the box. This way, inside my stem I ended up with 2 hydraulic hoses and 3 Di2 11v cables.
The build has to be done in reverse compared to the usual order where the handlebar is installed last. In fact, it’s much easier to assemble the handlebar first, already with the brake levers and all hydraulic/electronic cables installed, then slide everything into the stem, and finally into the fork/frame.
For a mechanical setup, you’ll need to route all the cables fully through everything. The stem will be your main challenge, but maybe if you follow the same process (assemble the handlebar first and then feed everything into the frame), it could be a bit easier. The stem is very narrow for so many cables, but it’s worth trying.
That’s why SRAM electronic ends up being the simplest and easiest solution — though still expensive.
Best regards,
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Hi, Samir
I'm also living near Paris, and ordered a frameset that should arrive early november...
I read your thread with great interest, and asked Chris to add some spacers, just in case... i'm 181cm/89 inseam and chose a M-sized frame, so it might be useful...
You Will need some extra spacers, no doubt about it.
I live in val d'Oise, what about you ? Could be funny to meet up once our Bikes are ready 😁
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Hi Maliba,
I just read your post about the chaos to route cable inside the frame. I'm actually thinking and listing all the parts to build this frame beginning of next year. I was thinking to build it with a shimano 105, because i want a double front rotor (can be discussed by everybody, but i prefer to climb on an easy way with a 34 or 36 rotor, instead of a solo 48 or 50)
And why a mecanical rather than electronic, 1st -> budget, 2nd -> i like "old schools" things :D
Do you think it's possible to route it ?
Thank you
I can only agree on building in w/ double rotor, 1st climbing tests definitely convinced me to upgrade at some point to a double one. It's stiff and quite heavier than my road bike (legit tarmac sl7) si good move here.
However i clearly don't recommend you to go with wired shimano groupset. Wait a bit more and invest in sram (or any other vendor which provides fully wireless système).
It Will be a mess to route
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You Will need some extra spacers, no doubt about it.
I live in val d'Oise, what about you ? Could be funny to meet up once our Bikes are ready 😁
Opposite side... Val-de-Marne ;D I'm very close to the "Polygone de Vincennes", if you know this place. That's where I plan to get used to riding this bike, after bike fitting on my trainer.
Hopefully someday we can meet, ride together & have pictures of our bikes together. 8)
Initially, I picked the same raw/no painting frameset as you, and then I came across this color, which happens to be very close to my triathlon club's colors...
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Opposite side... Val-de-Marne ;D I'm very close to the "Polygone de Vincennes", if you know this place. That's where I plan to get used to riding this bike, after bike fitting on my trainer.
Hopefully someday we can meet, ride together & have pictures of our bikes together. 8)
Initially, I picked the same raw/no painting frameset as you, and then I came across this color, which happens to be very close to my triathlon club's colors...
I use to ride at longchamp, i Heard about the polygone but never been there.
I love your painting, it also matches w/ my triathlon club colors but i wanted to custom paint it myself if i décide too at some point.
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I am still trying to figure out my front 2x setup. I have a force derailleur at the back. I have in my possession a 2x red force d1 crank set but would like to use a power meter as well as shorter cranks.
It seems like the easy way would be to use a magene P515 but then I am unsure what crankring I should pair with it so that it's compatible with SRAM flattop chain.
Swapping the cranks and buying the SRAM spider power-meter also seems like a viable option, albeit a more expensive one.
I would like to hear you opinion on this topic.
Thanks!
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I'm sorry but i have no expérience on it.
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I have finalized the design of the BTA bottle & computer holder
I'm pretty proud of me, i believe it doesn't require any further developments now.
I tested mechanical assembly and it seems to work like a charm. I share here the drawings & a video illustrating how simple it is to assemble (i didnt want any screw to be used for assembly except the screws for the bottle cage it self (which passes through the whole parts)
EDIT: Sorry for the french, initially the video was for a friend of mine who was asking for a demo
EDIT2: If anyone would want 3D file to print it, feel free to DM me. I'll personally use PTEG CF filament (the one on the video is PLA but for prototype testing only)
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Nice work..but please do not use petg cf.....
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Nice work..but please do not use petg cf.....
Thank you, what would you use instead and why not PETG CF? Is it PETG the pb or CF or even both?
I designed the mount so that the bracket under the Garmin holder compensates for the flexibility issue of the PETG CF — isn’t that enough?
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If you don't mind, boulette, I will post my (ongoing) build in your thread... and make it the "French VB TT-023" thread :D
I received my frameset last friday (about one month after ordering it). I allready had all the components ready. It will be a 1x wireless Rival AXS 12s build (no blip box)
Crankset Magene PES 515 (powermeter) 165mm
with Pass Quest SHIMANO X110BCD (4-bolt AERO) Narrow Wide 50t chainring
and Nova Ride BB T47 85.5 for Shimano BB
rear derailleur: SRAM Rival eTap AXS 12s
1 pair of SRAM wireless blips with Leap Components Adapters
1 pair of SRAM wireless blips (for the basebar)
SRAM XG-1250 cassette
Rival 12s flattop chain (waxed)
Brakes: SRAM S900
Pedals: Shimano Dura-Ace PD-R9100 (second-hand)
Wheels: Yoleo 88m
Tires: Continental Grand Prix 5000 All Season 28mm
Tubes: Vittoria Competition Latex
Saddle ISM PN 1.1 (second hand)
I'll have the fork cut and the brakes installed by a LBS, but I'll have to wait until the end of the week for the mechanic to be available.
Can't wait, so I build a few components to see how it goes...
I asked Chris to add a few handlebar spacers. He gave me 2x20 cm...
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Fell free, I'm glad you're enriching this thread.
Nice look so far.
2x20cm for spacers ? Sounds huge. Are you sure ?
I'm using m5x150mm screws and I'm hesitating to reduce because i extended already by more than 4cm.
Or you meant 2x20mm additional spacers maybe ?
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I have a total amount of 2x200m spacers made of 5mm, 10mm, 20mm spacers. I can use as much as I want as long as I find the right screw. (I will order a few threaded rods and cut them to the right length.
by the way, I thought it was M4 screws, are you sure I need M5 screws ?
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100% sûre. I asked Chris before ordering them.
Here are the specs of those i have ordered
TCHC M5X150 ACIER 12.9 NOIR PF DIN 912
2x20cm is huge in any case. If i need to elevate it by 5cm more, i'll do differently (thanks to my between the arms plate)
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Back after a three month hiatus...
My LBS had some issues with the front calliper and asked Chris for a new fork. It took some time but finally I got my bike ready to go.
I rode cautiously from the LBS and put it on my hometrainer to fine tune the position and check if everything is OK.
On this picture, I have a total of 35mm spacers (which I guess is the default with the provided screw), I felt OK but maybe a bit too low to get started with a TT position so I added a few spacers for a total of 80mm. FWIW, i could spend 1h15 in the aero position watching Milano/San Remo on the turbo, so I guess it means I'm comfortable with this fit.
Waiting for a not too windy day to try it outdoor. Can't wait.
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Same frame as the Quick Pro TT :P
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Same frame as the Quick Pro TT :P
Not at all, the quick pro TT:ONE is the same as the ican tt017
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I've just ordered the same bike. How was it for your full Ironman? I'm doing IM Copenhagen in August.
Did you Garmin/bottle cage 3D print work? Can you fit two bottles on there?
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Same frame as the Quick Pro TT :P
I did this
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Hey there,
It's over in the other VB TT-023 thread. Here you go.
Be mindful: Just yesterday it has surfaced that this toolbox only fits the L frame. I'm now looking for Guinea pigs that have the S and M frame and can send me detailed photos so I can adapt the toolbox for these frames (possible some failed prints involved).
I am starting to build up my VB TT-023 frame and was wondering if you had the .stl files for the toolbox in a size M frame @mattgolt. Hope to hear soon from you. 8)
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I would also be interested in a medium toolbox too!
I am starting to build up my VB TT-023 frame and was wondering if you had the .stl files for the toolbox in a size M frame @mattgolt. Hope to hear soon from you. 8)