Chinertown
Other Resources => Component Deals & Selection => Topic started by: ScottL on January 20, 2026, 03:20:18 PM
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Picked these up recently in 165mm with 110x4 spider. Initial impression is good with some minor fettling required.
-Listed at 309g +/-10. Scaled out at 318g.
-The spindle itself is pretty impressive. The bore between the 2 threaded ends is a bigger diameter for weight reduction instead of just being the same as the tap drill size.
-Spindle measures 23.98-23.99 on the bearing seats.
-The carbon finish on the arms and spider is nice. Satin with the weave showing and simple branding.
-Machining is decent. I increased the chamfer in the clamp bolt bore slightly in the arms. The radius under the bolt head was contacting the existing small chamfer.
-The spider to crank spline fit is a bit loose. I don't think it will cause issues in practice as it will always be torqued in one direction.
-The spider interferes with a set of Leese 50/34 rings. The mount face step and OD are different between the 2 components. I haven't tried my DA rings for fit yet, so can't say which component doesn't match Shimano. Either way its some minor filing to fix this.
Hope to have them fitted this week sometime. Bike is on the trainer for the winter and I'm a flyweight, so someone else will need to report back on how they stand up to watts, weight and the real world.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010510316765.html
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Tried fitting the DA rings this morning. Unfortunately the spider diameter is wrong. DA diameter is 94mm with the spider being 95-96mm. I have messaged the seller about the issue and will update when I receive a reply.
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Thanks for sharing your experience. Was about the purchase these HUDUD cranks, but I guess I rather wait until they switch to spider that fits 110 BCD chain rings, or purchase something else. 😢
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It's unfortunate, but after weeks of messaging with the seller the issue is still unresolved. Pictures and dimensions have been sent, with pictures from them confirming the diameter is wrong. The factory technician consulted, etc. The latest was a pic this morning of DA chainrings on the spider with the step covered when it should be visible, but the message stated that they fit. The kicker is that recent reviews on ali are mentioning fit issues, so this isn't an isolated defect.
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Couldn't you buy another spider, instead of waiting for the vendor to resolve the issue?
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005009734476405.html
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008622152706.html
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I have a DA crank and rings, so no rush for me to spend more.
New product development has growing pains. I get it. That's why I posted the caution here and gave the vendor time to correct the problem. If they act on it I will promptly post an update with the corrective action they take. I'm losing confidence in this happening as its been 3 weeks....
We need to push vendors to fix things or the issue just continues and more people get hosed.
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The brand's last name is Dud-why resellers don't use Reddit abuse to pre-check brand names for Western markets is so puzzling.
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I tried to work with the vendor, but their responses were just a series of delays.
I'm approaching the end of my return window so it's going back due to the defective spider.
The crankset itself was just ok. The spindle length is right at the minimum, which was noted by another user in the ali reviews. I had no spacers and the adjustment ring was bottomed out when I test fit it in a Ultegra BB.
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Sorry to hear you're having trouble. I've just received my set of Hudud ultralights with xcadey pm. Not fitted to bike yet as I'm waiting on wheels and groupset. I did a test fit and the 24mm spindle was a super tight getting into the BB. Otherwise they look very nice.
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Sorry to ask here but can you tell me what tool is needed to tighten the spider, can you help me understand? Thanks!
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You use a tool for old bb's
https://www.bike-components.de/en/3min19sec/Octalink-24-mm-Square-Taper-Bottom-Bracket-Tool-p65182/
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Thanks, I hadn't realized that!
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Sorry to hear you're having trouble. I've just received my set of Hudud ultralights with xcadey pm. Not fitted to bike yet as I'm waiting on wheels and groupset. I did a test fit and the 24mm spindle was a super tight getting into the BB. Otherwise they look very nice.
Thats not a bad thing.
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Thats not a bad thing.
Yeah true just makes installation and maintenance a little difficult but now they’re fitted they they feel smooth. Still not ridden them yet!
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Rode mine for a few hours on the trainer, but haven't taken it outside. Installation went smoothly, no problems so far.
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Hi everyone, this is my first post. I bought a Hudud crankset, which is very nice, but also very problematic. The titanium shaft has a tolerance that, in my opinion, is incorrect, because the diameter of the Cema bearing housing measures 24 mm +/- 0, while the shaft has an outside diameter of 24 mm -0.01 mm. Clearly, with a tolerance of just one hundredth, the shaft won't fit and with grease, things get complicated, there's no way to insert it. Has this happened to anyone else, or is it just my problem? Thanks, I look forward to your replies.
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Once my grx cranks were so tight to install I ended up sanding my bottom bracket a bit. Didn't take much as it had plastic on top of the bearing. It's not ideal of course. Or maybe try another bottom bracket or then just return the cranks.
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Thanks for your reply. the fact is that the Cema bottom bracket works on the inner rail of the bearing and has no plastic to grind . The fact is that the Shimano crankset fits perfectly, so the movement has nothing, it's the wrong titanium shaft. I feel if I can get a new shaft sent to me
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I just installed mine on my road bike with no issues at all apart from sorting out which spacers to use. Long 5 hour ride on the weekend with 1600m elevation and over 130km and the crankset performed nicely. Finish is also very nice and in my 165mm weight was spot on at 180g (verified with standard weights). With the spacers add a few more grams or so.
I'm probably going to get another set in 160mm for my TT bike.
Note I had to modify my Megene Power Meter spider to fit the Easton spindle but that also worked very well with no issues with performance. I'll post a full seperate review after a further test ride.
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I just installed mine on my road bike with no issues at all apart from sorting out which spacers to use. Long 5 hour ride on the weekend with 1600m elevation and over 130km and the crankset performed nicely. Finish is also very nice and in my 165mm weight was spot on at 180g (verified with standard weights). With the spacers add a few more grams or so.
I'm probably going to get another set in 160mm for my TT bike.
Note I had to modify my Megene Power Meter spider to fit the Easton spindle but that also worked very well with no issues with performance. I'll post a full seperate review after a further test ride.
I have the same issue with magene powermeter. How do you fix the fitting ? Do you dremel (or file) the dent on magene powermeter to fit the easton ?
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I have the same issue with magene powermeter. How do you fix the fitting ? Do you dremel (or file) the dent on magene powermeter to fit the easton ?
I know one person who has used a dremel but I think you could destroy the power meter/spider if you're not careful.
I used a vernia and a small round and square file. The aluminium is very soft so I carefully shaped it and took maybe an hour as I didn't want to stuff things up.
I'll post a DIY soon when I get a chance. The modification actually fits more snug than the original Megene crankset which was a bit loose. My power readings the other day over a 5 hour ride and 1600m of elevation seemed very accurate and comparable to prior readings so I'd say there is no affect on performance but I'll do another big ride this weekend to confirm.
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Thanks Don, excellent craftmanship!!
I'm not so accurate so I switch to a new Coospo S10 and yesterday I fit in the bike
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Does anyone know or can measure the crank bolt and extractor cap thread size, is it the same as sram dub? (M18/M30)
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how do you use the spacer?
I put the bigger one on drive side.
Today, during a ride, looking the drivetrain from the saddle i noticed that maybe is not well centered in the frame.
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how do you use the spacer?
I put the bigger one on drive side.
Today, during a ride, looking the drivetrain from the saddle i noticed that maybe is not well centered in the frame.
Flip the bike over. Find the center on the BB and then play with spacers so that the cranks are same distance from the center. ITs not one size fits all.
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how do you use the spacer?
I put the bigger one on drive side.
Today, during a ride, looking the drivetrain from the saddle i noticed that maybe is not well centered in the frame.
You can also put some spacers/washers on one of the pedals to compensate if you want to get things perfect.
For me I I think I put maybe 3mm or so of spacers (2) on the drive side, none on the other side, and 2 washers on the non-drive side pedal.
You can then adjust your cleat position on your shoe for final centering.
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Hi everyone, this is my first post. I bought a Hudud crankset, which is very nice, but also very problematic. The titanium shaft has a tolerance that, in my opinion, is incorrect, because the diameter of the Cema bearing housing measures 24 mm +/- 0, while the shaft has an outside diameter of 24 mm -0.01 mm. Clearly, with a tolerance of just one hundredth, the shaft won't fit and with grease, things get complicated, there's no way to insert it. Has this happened to anyone else, or is it just my problem? Thanks, I look forward to your replies.
In my experience this is a reocurring problem with those titanium axles, diameters are just a touch too large and then interfere with any BB with solid aluminium caps. Using one with plastic caps (e.g. Shimano) usually works fine, though.
My Hudud crankset is unusable because the axle won‘t mount in exactly 90 degrees angle on the drive side, making the chainrings wobble. Down to poor manufacturing of the crankarm insert I assume.
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Flip the bike over. Find the center on the BB and then play with spacers so that the cranks are same distance from the center. ITs not one size fits all.
Done, and find a good compromise with 3mm on NDS and 1mm on drive side.
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Hey guys, I have this crankset too, but I'm running into a few issues.
First off, the thread on the left pedal is extremely tight; I had to force it a bit to get it threaded all the way in.
Secondly, the crank arms tend to loosen from the titanium spindle quite easily. Has anyone else experienced these problems?
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Hey guys, I have this crankset too, but I'm running into a few issues.
First off, the thread on the left pedal is extremely tight; I had to force it a bit to get it threaded all the way in.
Secondly, the crank arms tend to loosen from the titanium spindle quite easily. Has anyone else experienced these problems?
I haven't had these problems with mine. Did you torque the crank bolt to 40NM? Also apply grease to the pedal thread?
Could be that the manufacturing tolerances are out with your set?
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I haven't had these problems with mine. Did you torque the crank bolt to 40NM? Also apply grease to the pedal thread?
Could be that the manufacturing tolerances are out with your set?
I used grease and a torque wrench, but the threads felt extremely tight.. I'm not entirely sure if the 40Nm reading was accurate or if the wrench clicked too early just from the thread friction.
Maybe I could try using a bit of threadlocker instead? ???
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I used grease and a torque wrench, but the threads felt extremely tight.. I'm not entirely sure if the 40Nm reading was accurate or if the wrench clicked too early just from the thread friction.
Maybe I could try using a bit of threadlocker instead? ???
Something doesn't sound right. I did 2 x 5hr ~150km rides on mine including some rought road and they are still tight as.
Maybe get someone to check it out, a fresh set of eyes is sometimes helpful, or perhaps there is a manufacturing issue.
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don, could you explain better the issue?
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don, could you explain better the issue?
My feeling with a lot of chinese cranksets is there can be manufacturing variations affecting quality and fitment so that can cause problems despite proper installation. Good thing is Aliexpress has a good return/refund policy.
I bought another set recently and there is something different about this other set but I will update soon.
Did another ~6 hour 150km ride with 2000m elevation on my original HUD crankset and still going strong without issues or needing to be tightened.
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that's very common due discontinuity in production and poor quality control procedures
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Hi there. I’ve had issues with lateral wobble in the chainring whenever I install the crankset; I’m not sure if anyone else has experienced this. I’ve tried everything—placing spacers here and there, using a different power meter, swapping chainrings—but nothing works. The problem goes away when I install Dura-Ace cranks, so I gather the issue lies in the alignment of the crank arm with the spindle, though I’m not certain—which is why I’m asking if anyone else has run into this. I’m thinking about buying a different crankset and reusing my current chainrings and power meter. The options are: Budget: Rpantahy High-end: Cybrei or Elilee
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Hi there. I’ve had issues with lateral wobble in the chainring whenever I install the crankset; I’m not sure if anyone else has experienced this. I’ve tried everything—placing spacers here and there, using a different power meter, swapping chainrings—but nothing works. The problem goes away when I install Dura-Ace cranks, so I gather the issue lies in the alignment of the crank arm with the spindle, though I’m not certain—which is why I’m asking if anyone else has run into this. I’m thinking about buying a different crankset and reusing my current chainrings and power meter. The options are: Budget: Rpantahy High-end: Cybrei or Elilee
I've noticed there are two versions of this crankset. I returned one set due to the chainrings/spider being out of alignment. It is a problem with the mounting face. However, I've heard it can be a common problem with many chinese cranksets. I bought another set and it is still not perfect but much better and acceptable.
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This is the two different types. IMO the model with the deeper spline works a bit better.
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What's a good USD price for the 280g version? Cheers
:)
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What's a good USD price for the 280g version? Cheers
:)
I purchased two sets so far from this store:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005011776046372.html
I think price pretty good and quality ok. First set was perfect, second set slight run-out on one side (<1mm on 50t chain ring edge) but passable.
I purchased another set from another shop but sent back for refund as run-out was maybe 1mm or more and short spline type.
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I have 3 sets of the slightly heavier carbon cranks and all have been fine with xcadey and pp5 powermeters.
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I’m thinking about buying a new crankset to fix the wobble issue I have with my chainrings. I think a smaller chainring wouldn't make the wobble as noticeable, but since I'm running a 55-tooth ring, the oscillation at the edge is huge; the chain slips off the teeth when I put down a lot of power, so I'm worried about having an accident. I’ve been looking at other chainrings—Elilee and Cybrei are the easy choices, but they’re a bit out of my budget. The other two options are Rpantahi and—the one that appeals to me most, even if it weighs a little more—Leese cranks. I’m not sure if anyone has experience with any other carbon cranksets they could recommend; I’m looking to spend around 200 euros.
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What's a good USD price for the 280g version? Cheers
:)
the effective weight of 167.5mm version with all the hardware is 308g.
The 280g is only the 2 arms with shaft, so the 280g weight is "fake".
I payed mine +- 320€ with all the unexpected duties included (36€)
Flawlessly paired with coospo S10
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Hi there. I’ve had issues with lateral wobble in the chainring whenever I install the crankset; I’m not sure if anyone else has experienced this. I’ve tried everything—placing spacers here and there, using a different power meter, swapping chainrings—but nothing works. The problem goes away when I install Dura-Ace cranks, so I gather the issue lies in the alignment of the crank arm with the spindle, though I’m not certain—which is why I’m asking if anyone else has run into this. I’m thinking about buying a different crankset and reusing my current chainrings and power meter. The options are: Budget: Rpantahy High-end: Cybrei or Elilee
I had a similar problem with my coree cranks combined with a leoseek spider powermeter, i turned out that there were not enogh clearance and the crankarm bent/deformed the spider when torqued down. I managed to fix i by placing a thin spacer (0.5 mm) between the spider and the crankarm.