Hi all,
Looking to get a new set of wheels for my LCR018-D.
I have a super set of 58mm XMCS from Peter which im going to use on my SL8 and was hoping to go for a cheaper set of all round wheels, but he doesn't offer any colour options on brass nipples. yes....I know, I know im being picky.
Im not super fast, so wheels won't make me any faster, so at least I can spec them up to look really nice! :-)
So, im set on oil slick brass nipples for all round year use, steel aero spokes and a nice coloured hub.
As Peter cant build exactly what I want, I was thinking of getting a set of 50mm rims from him (and maybe pre sized spokes) and building them myself. It would be a great learning project and something I could be proud of and would build the knowledge to maintain in the future.
Just wanted to ask the forum if anyone has had any experience with the Goldix R241 hubs:
https://shorturl.at/cYta6
They have a purple version which would look fantastic. I just want something reliable, easily serviced. If anyone has any other options that would fit the bill, im all ears.
Any advice on wheel building also appreciated - I already have a dishing tool and a simple stand from Aliexpress along with nipple tools, so pretty well set, although those lovely stands on Ali at around £100 with lots of gauges look very tempting.
If you haven't already, I recommend getting one of those spoke tension gauges from Parktool and use their wheel truing app. I usually do several rounds of dishing, truing, and tension checking. Get everything extremely lightly laced together, check dishing, tighten every spoke slightly, use the valve hole as a marker, always start and end each round of tightening there. Check all spoke tensions, repeat.
You want to avoid getting too fixated on making sure all the spokes are perfectly tensioned without realizing the wheel is super out of true or dish (or just neglecting any of the variables while you focus on one)
If this is your first wheel build, the likelihood of damaging painted spoke nipples is pretty high. You will be apply the wrench to every nipple 10x more than a robo-wheel building tool with a human finisher. You will probably start to round a couple nipples as you do your final tensioning. Best to have extras on hand.
I second getting a spoke tension meter. If you don't build wheels all the time, it is required in my opinion. Also, super light rims are much less robust to poor quality wheel builds. There is a lot less material to reinforce the spoke hole. With any wheel even spoke tension is critical to wheel longevity.