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Re: LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets
I've also been riding my ER9 groupset without a hitch and I ride on some rough road terrain and it just works. I have my ER9 gear tuned perfectly, quality replaceable batteries are cheap/plentiful, the high speed shifts are faster than any of my mechanical bikes and gear protection does a great job minimizing chain drops + keeping chain line optimized. On price alone I would probably get another ER9 groupset. No complaints on brakes either, they work fine. April 14, 2024, 01:28:47 PM |
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Re: Spcycle New Mold G068 Carbon Gravel Frame
The lack of in-frame storage and the choice of an adventure style fork with a bunch of bolt holes are both big turnoffs. The hunt continues..... April 16, 2024, 09:14:22 AM |
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Re: LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets
It's not a myth, there's ample data from the likes of accubattery that shows the battery degrades less if you dont charge to 100%, AND a lithium cell that gets charged to 4.2V will be much happier at 4.1 or 4V; it doesn't stay at full charge, and it shouldn't be stored at full charge. Remember, I am talking about modern cell phones being manufactured by the major manufacturers. Apple, Samsung,... What you are saying is true for most other appliances that use Lithium batteries, unless they are installing good charging control circuitry. (Look up Samsung Battery Protect. Samsung charges all of its cell batteries to 85% of full charge, but the phone tells you it is charged to 100%) https://www.wired.com/story/how-to-improve-battery-life-tips-myths-smartphones/ April 16, 2024, 05:08:37 PM |
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Re: XC Marathon Fully with... Drops? Advice?
I have ridden 420mm flared gravel bars but tbh i was more in aw of the comfort of the grx hoods… Have I got 2 resources for you. This is my contribution to this topic, but the post near the start from user Upcountry was what inspired my build. https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/drop-bar-mtb-geo/87495/167?u=kactusdog And then, read the essays on this written by Torsten Frank. See here: https://torstenfrank.wordpress.com/2023/03/26/dropbar-mtb-teil-1-warum-gravel-immer-mehr-zu-mtb-offroad-wird-und-welches-rad-ich-mir-dafur-gebaut-habe/ Let me know what you think! Here’s my build in progress. Size medium spcycle Epic clone running XPLR mechanical from my previous gravel bike, dub wide cranks with an AXS road 8 bolt 40t chainring (8mm offset). Flared bars, 40cm on the tops, 48mm in the drops. April 16, 2024, 11:22:56 PM |
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Re: Interesting Aliexpress finds! - good deals, interesting stuff, new products etc!
I've had good luck with the generic clear helicopter tape for quick dirty protection. I agree with this but the price difference is massive. I have been using generic stuff for ages and works well. I've not removed it from any frames to which it is applied but I cut lengths of tape onto parchment paper then used a scalpel to cut the pieces nicely. Came out okay, definitely not like an Invisiframe kit though. April 22, 2024, 04:00:27 AM |
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Re: TideaceBike New mold Road Frame FM-CR068 groupbuy
I feel fat shamed right now :p Seriously though, I feel like there's a certain weight/size tolerance for a lot of overseas components. I tend to include that in my risk assessment when buying stuff from China. That seat stay design might be fine for someone my size, but for someone who weighs more or has different dynamic leverages, it might be problematic. April 23, 2024, 12:46:21 PM |
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Re: First gravel build project
Have GR9 on my Salsa. The thumb shifter cannot be accessed from drops because it’s located way too high. If you are going to have flared bars, it’s even more difficult. Ltwoo hydro thumb shifters can be reached from the drops. They are different than the mechanical version. I’d suggest the GR9 11 speed over the 12. It’s just easier to tune and keep tuned. April 24, 2024, 06:20:03 PM |
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Re: Spcycle New Mold G056 Carbon Gravel Frame
Finally assembled the bike. Size L, weight 8.2kg naked, 8.6kg ready to ride I had a problem with the crankset and bb (token). The spindle was to short. The solution was to get rid of preload adjuster and just put a spacer. Will probably change the crankset for sram force wide with power meter, as the senicx one has slightly big chainline. Chainring 44t. - Wheels from yuanan with mana rotors and gravel thundero HD tires. - Stem deda vinci - 17 with kovcelo 40cm handlebar with little flare. - Hoods and brakes sram rival. - Rd sram gx with garbaruk cage from Ali which makes is as light as xx1 version. - Cassette sram eagle xx1 10-50 and chain also xx1. - Saddle prologo scratch5 agx. Bike is very comfortable and stable. Feels very good on descents and single tracks. On other hands feels slower then my previous bike - specialized Diverge e5 comp aluminum. But that one was basically a road plus/endurance bikes. I also had way better shape last year. Will see how much I like this bike inf few weeks. April 27, 2024, 01:30:39 PM |
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Re: DT 240EXP hub clones Goldix, Venfort
Purchased the ZTTO DR190 54t ratchet hubs. The spoke holes are double drilled shaped like a key hole. Anyone know the purpose of that? ZTTO says it's for better durability but I'm scratching my chin.It's for flat spokes like the sapim cx ray May 15, 2024, 09:49:21 AM |
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Deerobust/Goldix wheel build 50/55mm 1319g
I wanted to share with you all the results of my first wheelbuild. The headline specs/stats are:
I've been meaning to make this thread for a while. I've been busy finishing my PhD and finally had the time to cobble it together. Theres some more build info I want to add in a later post but I'll put this up for now. I had recently bought myself a truing stand and tensionmeter to rebuild a wheel with a rim that I broke racing CX. Now having the tools to build wheels, I got curious about the phenomenally low prices on wheelbuilding components, as well as the freedom to pursue interesting build configurations. I'll be transparent here: this is a vanity build driven by questionable weight and aero-weenie-ing. Experienced wheelbuilders will probably cringe at my choices, and that's fine with me. The irony of scraping for grams on this build while I could stand to lose 20lbs of body fat is not lost on me. At the end of the day I had a lot of fun building these up, I think they look super cool, it's exciting to me that I've built up such a lightweight wheelset, and I've had a pretty good experience riding them so far. Given this premise of vanity over practicality, I hope you can appreciate my wheelbuild for what it is. Rims: I did a bit of searching for the manufacturer of the lightest rims and landed on Deerobust. It helps that they are the first result when you search "lightest carbon rim" into aliex. This is no exaggeration, the 21mm-internal-width, 50 and 55mm-deep rims I chose ("featherweight"-spec + paintless finish) were quoted at 390g and 420g respectively; the only manufacturer that seems to come close is Lightcarbon. I chose 50/55 simply because it's a depth that seemed to strike a good balance between weight and aero. I also won't lie and say that the decision was influenced by the fact that the Enve SES 4.5 rims used by Pogi and UAE are 50/55mm deep, even though if we're being realistic those are completely different wheels. I chose 21mm internal width because it seems that this is still the ideal rim width for aero given a 28mm tire. I understand the rule of 105% says otherwise. On the other hand, Peak-torque's testing results (particularly the comparison of the Polaris Ascent 42 against the ICAN Aero 35 across 28mm and 32mm tires) suggests that a 28mm tire is faster on a 21mm internal width rim compared a wider one. Another feature I chose for my rims is internally-drilled spoke holes. For one, there is the (dubious) aero benefit of having hidden nipples. But more importantly--as ENVE's marketing material points out--smaller spoke holes means stronger spoke holes, and therefore a stronger, safer rim. I paid $507 (inc. shipping) to order my rims from Deerobust, with bespoke paintless finish, hole-drilling, and logo. The rims weighed 410 and 415g respectively. I was a tad disappointed that my front rim came 5g over the spec weight +/- 15g margin of error. On the other hand, my rear rim came 5g under spec weight, the average weight between the two was under the +/- 15g per rim margin of error, so I called it good and decided to not complain. Hubs As for hubs, I chose GOLDIX 21-spoke hubs with 2:1 lacing. These have no official model number but appear to be a DT-swiss style ratchet hub with straight-pull lacing. I chose these because a) Goldix seems to have a fairly decent reputation on here, and b) these hubs are very lightweight. The standout unique design feature of these hubs is that there are 21 spokes, 14 spokes laced in a 3x pattern on the stressed side (drive side on rear, brake side on front), and 7 radially-laced spokes on the non-drive side. I went for this unusual design because fewer spokes theoretically means lighter and more aero, while the 2:1 3x lacing, especially when paired to such deep rims, potentially could make up for the loss in stiffness. Remember, this is a vanity build. When my hubs arrived, they seemed to be of decent quality. The bearings were a tad notchy--something that has gone away since I started riding them. The bearings are "NBK" brand, and have metal ball cages, which are a feature of decent-quality bearings. These aren't showstoppers, but they aren't complete garbage either. One criticism I have about these hubs is that that to achieve radial lacing on the non-stressed side, the hub axle has a hole drilled out to allow a spoke to be passed through into the back of the spoke hole. This means that the wheel bearing on the radially laced side is offset inboards an entire centimeter. This is bad for hub stiffness and longevity. The further inboards the bearing sits, the longer the unsupported section of the axle is (making less stiff), and the bearing has to bear more axial/side loading (which harms longevity). In the future I might swap these hubs out for a different design. Spokes and nipples For this build I chose Pillar Wing 20 with Pillar hex-10 internal nipples. I have a whole extra story to tell about these nipples that I will get to another time. I chose these spokes over the alternative (Sapim CX Ray/DT aerolite) because they are supposedly stiffer, lighter, just as aero, and definitely are cheaper. The idea that a wider spoke section is just as aero as a narrower one baffles me, but I'll trust in Campagnolo and Boyd, who have supposedly tested this difference and chose the Pillar wings. I also spoke-prepped my threads using Rock n Roll Nipple cream. Finishing touches As is common, I have wrapped my wheels in 28mm Continental GP5000 clincher tires, with RideNow 19gr tubes inside, likely the lightest and lowest-rolling-resistance combo in the Continental range, barring the GP5000TT. I'm also running ONIRII's super-light 160mm floating disc rotors, and an S-ROAD one-piece 11-32 cassette Overall impressions So far I've logged about 100 miles on these new wheels on my road bike. They certainly sound cool and feel fast. And they do not feel like they're particularly lacking in stiffness. One major complaint I am experiencing is that my freehub ratchet has been slipping occasionally. I serviced it and found that I had reinstalled the o-ring incorrectly and that some dirt/grime had made its way into the ratchet. After a bit of cleaning and regreaseing it was nearly perfect once again, perhaps I need to clean it more and regrease with the special DT swiss ratchet grease. Are these truly "fast" wheels? Who knows. They haven't stopped me from setting a bunch of Strava PRs here and there. But as far as bling factor, these are 10/10, super cool and super fun wheels to have. Thanks for reading my wheelbuild story. Would love to hear your thoughts and questions. Hopefully soon, I can make a quick post about how I dealt with some challenges I experienced using the Hex-10 nipples. May 15, 2024, 03:30:12 PM |
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