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ICAN TT017 TT Bike Build
I thought I would post my bike build for this bike to share my experience and views on this bike and my build. Im in the progress of assembling the bike and will post ongoing updates. The bike is the new TT model from ICAN. I went for this frame mainly because of the front end with integrated handle bars and mono riser. The reviews I found on ICAN seemed to indicate they were some of the better manufacturers from China. https://www.icanbikes.com/Products-list/carbon-tt-bike-frame/ I also ordered a disc wheel and 80mm dish front from ICAN https://www.icanbikes.com/Products-list/lightweight-carbon-tt-bike-wheelset-time-trial-wheelset-86c-25-disc/ https://www.icanframe.com/carbon-disc-tt-bike-track-bike-wheel-dc04 Communicating with ICAN was a bit of a challenge because of the language barrier. Using short to the point questions and few per email seemed to work than multiple long questions. I chose a gloss black frame and matt finish for the wheels. ICAN sent me a proforma invoice with gloss for the frame and wheels and I asked them to change the wheels back to matt finish and update the order. They made an error and supplied gloss wheels from the original proforma invoice. The wheels look OK in gloss, maybe better The groupset I'm using will be Shimano Ultegra. I wasn't convinced on the Chinese brands and Shimano is what I know and is easily available locally for me. I also had a Shimano crank to use. Costs Item Cost USD Cost AUD Frame $1200.00 $1,950.00 Disc Wheel $565.00 $941.67 Front Wheel $285.00 $475.00 Shipping $465.00 $775.00 Import Tax $422.00 Groupset & BB $3,200.00 Build Total AU$ $7,763.67 Negatives The ski poles/aero bars are connected to the plate on top of the rise. I don't want these and the only way to use the top plate and mount aero bars like the Winow bars would be to cut them off. The top plate interfaces with the riser or angle piece, so to retro fit one you would need to router or machine it to fit. There was a minor scuff on the fork. This can be polished out but I let ICAN know when I asked for the torque settings. They immediately sent me a picture of the fork prior to packing which didn't show the scuff and said they would not replace it, even though I didn't ask them to as it was minor. The bike and wheels were really well packed so I don't know where the mark came from. My advise is to film yourself opening the boxes and inspecting the goods as it would be hard to prove if there was damage. Positives Carbon looks good. I'm no expert but to me it looks well made Pricing was good compared to others. If you are in the US it may not be with Trumps new tariffs Frame design was good for me. It also accepts 32mm wide tyres The option of custom paint is appealing. I wish I went for the cracked ice paint although the black does look good. Not sure how much extra the custom paint is. Summary I'm happy with the purchase so far. You need to accept that after sales service is going to be difficult or non existent, unlike major brand. I'm guessing this will be for most China bikes. Parts may be an issue to get hold of in the future. I will post more as I get into the build Edit: Pricing fixed to match correct costs. I originally asked for pricing on the TT016 and TT017 and was planning on buying more from ICAN. The nice lady Sherry at ICAN gave me a discount of USD900 per frame as I have previously bought from ICAN. Sherry reluctantly stood by this after I only purchased one frame. April 03, 2025, 08:56:20 PM |
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Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
assembly test...just to get an idea April 30, 2025, 01:00:26 PM |
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HongFu FM309 - TT/Tri bike
HongFu has a new TT bike on show at the Shangai bike show (saw a picture thanks to a Slowtwitch forum member). It's under their direct to consumer "Avenger" brand Since there is a bit of interest on the forum in TT bikes (with the ICAN, Velobuild and Winow threads). I reached out to HongFu for some more details. They responded with some more pictures and the geometry chart. The bike should be for sale in 2025 via their Avenger brand. What are your experiences with HongFu? Geometry and pictures:    May 09, 2025, 07:16:02 AM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-TT-023
Hi guys, I´ve been reading this thread as I´m building a bike with this frame. You need everything on this picture. May 12, 2025, 01:39:07 AM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-TT-023
It will ride one day and you will be happy, don't worry. 1. what you call the “compression plug” goes on the bottom of the fork cone. It is the centering ring for the lower bearing. Once you have fitted it, the head tube will no longer rub on the fork  . (look attached picture)2. the marked part is the centering ring for the upper bearing. The recess must be at the front for the cable routing. 3. can you explain again about the seat stays or take a photo? I don't quite understand it (may be due to the language, sorry). 4. write to Velobuild Support, they will send you a replacement part very quickly. May 12, 2025, 09:50:47 AM |
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Re: VeloBuild VB-TT-023
I was totally up to tinkering and solving all these tiny issues - as i completely expected from a Chinese frame. The stuff that challenged me most was also the cockpit.. bars slipped on the first ride (because I "too carefully" torqued them up). Now with greater torque, everthing seems fine. Coincidentally, I asked a couple of hours ago to VB for the max torque just to be sure. I will edit it in the post later when they reply =) Edit: they responded that the max torque is 5NM I actually never build a bike up before.. but it was surprisingly more straight forwards than expected. Also had to cut the fork by myself.. but with care that was easily enough. But.. for sure.. specific torque settings would have given me more confidence in the build stage and test rides 
May 13, 2025, 08:33:09 AM |
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Re: 1 x 12 Sram TT Setup
Hi everyone, Since someone was referring to a VeloBuild VB-TT-023 here, here's my build. It is a weapon. Very fast and very sexy looking. The only thing was that the original cockpit wasn't working well for me. Too low, too close to my body and too narrow. So I customized the cockpit quite a bit: #1: I cut a custom aero bar base plate from a 4 mm thick carbon sheet in order to bring the underarm rest pads more outward and further forward than the original base plate would allow. #2: This also allowed me to add a QuadLock mount for my phone, so that I have my data right between my arms. #3: I 3D-printed two one-piece 12 cm tall spacers. In order to give them more stability, I replaced the long M5 bolts with thicker, extra-long M6 bolts, which meant I had to drill the holes in the handlebars a tiny bit wider. #4: I also 3D-printed a little box that is attached underneath the aero bar base plate and which can slide in two energy gels while I’m riding. #5: I ended up not attaching the water bottle to the seat post. I attached it to the down tube. Looked better and way easier to grab the bottle while riding. Photos (incl. Adobe Illustrator drawing of the custom carbon aero bar base plate I built): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mE7LtKe21CTyAYtPoBpYAIpCF4da8K-i?usp=sharing Feedback appreciated! Have a good one! Martin May 14, 2025, 02:36:37 PM |
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Re: VB TT-023: Here comes a new build
I have finalized the design of the BTA bottle & computer holder I'm pretty proud of me, i believe it doesn't require any further developments now. I tested mechanical assembly and it seems to work like a charm. I share here the drawings & a video illustrating how simple it is to assemble (i didnt want any screw to be used for assembly except the screws for the bottle cage it self (which passes through the whole parts) EDIT: Sorry for the french, initially the video was for a friend of mine who was asking for a demo EDIT2: If anyone would want 3D file to print it, feel free to DM me. I'll personally use PTEG CF filament (the one on the video is PLA but for prototype testing only) October 27, 2025, 10:34:05 AM |
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Xcadey GEN 2 - power sources comparison
I finalized my testing of three power meters. It took place from 16.12.2025 until 06.01.2026. All screens and readings of power were made on https://compare-the-watts.com/. All files you can find here - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zK7ZtPF-K969JV58sm26zGjgVzL1gek8?usp=sharing. Some photo examples I attached in the post. I will add some videos into the google drive, from rides and showing the calibration etc. Comparison is also on Facebook group - https://www.facebook.com/groups/975602387895509/?ref=share. The tests and all workouts were recorded on: Garmin Fenix 8, Huawei Mate tablet and Bryton S810. The following devices have been compared: 1. Favero Assioma Duo, used since 2021 (4.5 years) 2. Elite Justo, used since 2023 (almost 3 years) 3. Xcadey gen 2 easton 110 BCD (almost new) Before every ride sources 1 and 3 were calibrated as Elite Justo is self-calibrated device, however, two times it was also calibrated and before all tests. The firmware for all devices has been updated, and it is the newest possible. All the data is on my google drive including all original fit files for all dates. Unfortunately, several times I had some issues, it was not related to connection or to any power source but the recording device ( I believe). Sometimes it was due to changing windows on my tablet and then My Whoosh device turned off the training, or I wanted to change recording device, and switch to another source. During the testing period so for full three weeks which include many different workouts all sources showed rather consistent results, and the results were not identical of course. However, some unexpected episodes also happened, which I describe below: 1. For each workout, for each day you can find fit file; 2. For each workout you can find general screen and some detailed comparisons for the interval part if occurred; 3. Except for the FTP test from 03.01.2026 all workouts have been done using ERG mode; 4. For one workout I switched, and the Bryton S810 was a controllable device of the smart trainer. For most of the time the Elite Justo controlled the watts and workout in ERG mode; 5. Screens are from Compare the watts; 6. Sometimes the workout timeline is moved, that is due to the different methods of pausing the activity for each device, mostly the MyWhoosh (elite justo) recording is moved. I adjusted it in the Compare the watts by time offset, and the detailed comparison is correct. Due to that, the average watts for the entire workout are different and not correct. Then the interval part can be compared; 7. For Favero and Xcadey there are L/R balance data; 8. Sprints are much better recorded on Favero and Xcadey, and showed more reliable watts; 9. The maximum data from Compare the watts and recorded in the file is different for Favero and Xcadey; 10. I noticed different readings of watts during workout for all devices, for all of them I have 3s average watts so that should not be the case; 11. I identified some issues with displaying watts, I connect Xcadey and Favero to Garmin Fenix 8 and to MyWHoosh and it presented different readings; 12. I connected Xcadey as power source to mywhoosh and Elite Justo as controllable device for workouts in Mywhoosh, and the watts were displayed different on the Mywhoosh, and different on Garmin Fenix 8; 13. Favero and Xcadey are more sensible and reads all fluctuations of wattage more reliable; The results overall: 1. Are consistent for all power sources, the graphs, watts and the cadence recorded are not identical but similar; 2. The comparison to other sets is always different, never been the same and within 1%, between the sources; 3. The graphs are very similar, Favero and Elite Justo are closer, and the GAP is probably around 1-5%; 4. The GAP for Xcadey is bigger, around 1-6%, except for two days 24-25.12, were I noticed some serious issues for all devices, the readings on all devices were strange, 5. The watts recorded and presented by Xcadey are always higher, around 5-10w from Elite Justo; 6. The maximum watts are much lower on Elite Justo and certainly not accurate; 7. Based on the workout assumptions, Elite Justo was in a lower or middle range of watts required, Favero Assioma was always below, Xcadey always met the requirements, 8. Favero and Xcadey L/R balance are very similar, the differences are very low; 9. I have different FTP based on the results obtained from all devices, between 352, 357 and 362w; 10. I charged Favero and Xcadey 16.12.2025 and today so 14.01.2026 the batter level is 10% (Xcadey). During that period, I rode more than 50h. However, the readings are not representative as my son (1.5 years) loves to spin the pedals, and the Xcadey was very often activated, even when Favero was not installed, 11. On the 12th of January I decided to swap pedals, and I installed Favero on my second bike. For me the results of Justo and Xcadey are reliable and enough. I just adjusted my FTP for the readings from Justo and Xcadey. Riding for around 4.5 years with a power meter I still don’t know which is the most accurate one from those three, however I have one conclusion from my side. If you use power meter, perform all tests on it, that is crucial, and you should stick to it. If you change power meter, you always should perform a new FTP test on it. Even if it shows some lower or higher watts, you will have the proper and valid readings. I didn’t notice any unusual results so one showed 400w and another 600 w, except sprints, for sure that is the biggest flaws of a smart trainer due to their build and way of working. I also noticed that the feeling of 200w outside is a bit different than inside using all three devices. After all rides and tests, I would say that the watts are in the middle. I will repeat it when the weather will be more convenient in Poland. Lastly, my Favero Assioma now has some issues with the body, I changed the bearings but now I felt some play, again. It was noticed by many people in the past. If you have any suggestions/comments/questions, I’m happy to answer. January 14, 2026, 04:46:03 AM |
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Re: WheelTop EDS TX Full Wireless Groupset (Chinese SRAM)
Perhaps I have been lucky? I originally set up my front derailleur on 50 X 36 front chain-rings and I had absolutely no problems aligning and adjusting the front derailleur. A year or 2 later I changed the rings to 48 X 32, and it was just as easy to move, align, and adjust my front derailleur. I just set up the EDS TX for the first time and I must say I also found the process to be much easier than I expected. Mine was setup using a BigRock RS crankset with Leoseek PM spider and 12s Ultegra rings, mixed with a 10 speed Sensah (Sunshine) cassette and YBN chain - a temporary setup until the final wheels arrive for the build. This was my process: 1) unscrew all limit screws (FD and RD) to ensure they weren't stopping the derailleur from moving 2) set front derailleur alignment using the Campagnolo front derailleur alignment tool (strongly recommend these for setting up any front derailleur), then tighten up the front derailleur. 3) set cassette (in this case, 10 speed) 4) go through initial calibration for RD. Ensure derailleur is in smallest cog position (which will only happen when front derailleur is in big chainring, unless you've used the DrEDS app to turn the gear protection off) 5) some cogs needed fine tuning, I adjusted the setting to be partway between the current number and the 'reference' nu-mber in the app (not sure what this is - maybe the default?) - this just takes a little trial and error 6) once you've got it shifting onto the largest cog set the b-screw (or what they call 'rear derailleur tension screw G') to be 8-10mm below the largest cog. 7) do the initial calibration for the FD. Set the initial calibration on the large chainring - move the FD out until it's about 1mm past touching the chain. In my case, this was 6 taps of the micro-adjustment after it had stopped touching.  test the trim positions of the FD. There's one for the top and bottom half of each chainring. In my case, setting the initial position properly was enough to get it to work well in all gears without further fine tuning.First impressions from the garage 1) Bolts don't seem to be particularly well made. Be careful with them 2) Shifter buttons not as nice as Shimano or SRAM, but they're not bad. 3) Front shifting is definitely slower than Shimano, but it works fine 4) Not sure I can tell the difference in performance between casual mode and racing mode 5) No guidance is given for front derailleur positions if you're going to fine tune it. RD is obvious enough but FD seems illogical (which position correlates to which number?) Other notes: - I didn't use the support bracing screw on the front derailleur - but I'm using it with a clamp-on adapter - I assume mine came with the new hoods, they were pretty easy to get off to adjust the position - overall the shifter and lever feel quite nice, it's only the buttons that are lesser than Shimano/SRAM - would be nice if it had a top button like Shimano/SRAM - I paid ~380USD for mine from AliExpress during 11.11 sales - I'd say that's about what it's worth. - It's still the easiest solution for anyone who wants 12 speed electronic rim-brake shifting and doesn't have a frame that supports Di2 (otherwise I'd suggest getting 12 speed Di2 instead) - the manual is pretty useless. Just using the app is easy enough for setup - with the price of the disc brake system it's very hard to recommend it over Shimano/SRAM alternatives. Only the rim brake system makes any financial sense (and that's mostly due to the lack of alternatives - or lack of availability of alternatives). The bike it's going on will eventually have a 12 speed, 11-34 cassette going on when the right wheels come. If I was a little braver I'd consider trying the 52-36 chainrings out with a 10-36 XDR cassette to get massive range. Maybe some day. Pic of the setup (for now): 
January 25, 2026, 11:31:14 PM |
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