See likes

See likes given/taken


Posts you liked

Pages: [1]
Post info No. of Likes
Re: Seraph Bikes Superlight 836g X68 - Alternative to SL8 Fakes?
Quote from: sdicby87 on July 01, 2025, 12:20:59 AM
About to order a frame. I am torn between size 54 and 56. Coming from gravel bike to first road bike. 181cm, and 74cm from bottom bracket to top of saddle. Test drove SL8 at LBS, but it was rather short session swapping bikes and driving few hundred meters only.

54 felt nimble and agile, 56 felt bit long. However, both were equipped with non integrated stem 90mm and handlebar +6 degrees. Going integrated with -6 degrees would put me even more racy position. As setup is quite static with only 25mm spacers to play, and I feel being between sizes I would appreciate comments on how to choose correct sizing.

Secondly, I see nice colours being picked. Which colours are those with some metallic glare?
Asking Vivian, I received massive catalogue of Pantone colours. But aren’t those pastel colours..? There is also 8 different chameleon colours which are more what I am looking for but a bit too bright. Ideally would like to have dark colour with some sparkle but not too much.

Thanks for sharing your situation! Choosing between a 54 and 56 when you’re 181 cm tall and transitioning from a gravel bike can definitely be tricky.

From what you describe, the 54 felt nimble and agile, while the 56 felt a bit long. Given both had a 90mm non-integrated stem and a +6° handlebar, switching to an integrated stem with -6° could indeed make your position more aggressive and stretched out. Since your setup has limited adjustment (only 25mm spacers), and you’re feeling in-between sizes, here are a few thoughts:

If you prefer a more responsive, agile ride and are comfortable with a slightly tighter fit, the 54 might suit you better.

If you want a bit more stability and stretch, and don’t mind a larger frame, the 56 could be the way to go.

Stem length adjustments or different handlebar angles can help fine-tune fit, but since your options are limited, try to decide based on your comfort and riding style.

Since you only had a short test ride, consider a longer demo if possible or seek advice from others with similar stats who have ridden both sizes.

Regarding colours — metallic glare usually comes from finishes that have fine metallic flakes in the paint. The Pantone catalogue can be overwhelming, and yes, many are pastel or flat colors. The chameleon colours you mentioned are vibrant but might be too bright for your taste.

For a dark color with subtle sparkle, you might want to look for finishes described as "metallic," "pearlescent," or “sparkle black” — these usually have a low-key shimmer without being too flashy. A few guys have bought the white frame in pearlescent and one with gold i believe which is subtle. I still like the transparent red colour as they call it where it is red over bare carbon.
https://www.seraphbikes.com/Special-Red-Paint-Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70032C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p6397145.html
I did want this in blue but my frame was to far gone in production so had to stick with the gloss over bare/raw carbon


Also, this is me: I often see the question in posts: “What frame size should I buy?” For reference, I’m 178 cm tall and ride a 54 cm frame. My saddle height—from the middle of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle—is 74 cm. I usually run a 110 mm stem, but I’ve just ordered another set of bars for my X68 with a 120 mm stem.

The 54 cm frame feels quite compact to me. I think I could probably get away with a 56 cm frame too, maybe paired with a 100 or 110 mm stem. But at 48 years old (lol), I’m still flexible enough to comfortably ride the 54. It’s always a tricky choice though!

Regarding the Tarmac SL8 for 181 cm, I’d say a 56 cm is generally the right size. It tends to offer a good balance of comfort and performance. Of course, your exact sizing might depend on your body proportions like inseam and torso length, and your preferred riding style. If you want a more aggressive and stretched-out position, 56 is solid; if you prefer something more compact, a 54 could work with some stem and handlebar adjustments.

What frame size do you normally ride? And do you know your inseam or saddle height? That info can help fine-tune the recommendation even more.

Hope this helps! Let me know if you want to discuss more.

Want me to tweak the tone or shorten it?
July 01, 2025, 02:58:30 AM 		1
Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
Quote from: sdicby87 on January 09, 2026, 12:45:45 AM
BeR, may I ask which direction it's wrong size - too small or too large?
Having read whole thread couple times and about to order, I noticed you are similar size to me (181cm, 86cm inseam). Narrowing to size 54, and would be nice to hear your comments on sizing. Also noticed your sales post, but I am too eager for glossy finish :)

Regarding slammed setup and which covers / spaces needs to be there to know actual stack of setup is bit unclear. How to read this:

"There should be no reason why the bar can’t sit directly on top of the bearing cap. It’s the only mandatory interface needed.
Compression ring.  8.3mm
Cover.   10mm
Thick spacer.  10mm
Thin spacer   5mm"

For the sizing I hear comments about getting proper bike fit. However, I was not able to find decent fitter in my region. Also think it's part of the build and hobby to experiment. Seeing multiple size discussions in this thread, maybe someone can say if my thinking is completely false.

Current bike is Kona Rove ST 2018, size 54. A relaxed gavel bike. I have played with multiple stems and swapped to more narrow handle bar. I am trying to replicate reach and stack of the setup. With my testing I have figured out that I don't want any longer bike. Frame reach is 388mm and stem 90mm. LCR018 size 54 I could then choose 90mm or 100mm stem to match this.

This will be my first road bike, so I have no experience of how low I should go with stack. I tested my current setup removing all spacers and invertin stem to negative -6 degrees. Feels fine and I could go lower. Kona frame stack is 590mm vs, LR 54 569mm, difference of 21mm. With 8mm rise on handle bar this results 13mm. But are there other components I need to add? Tryin to figure how low I can go.

I won't go into details, but the bike is for my wife, who is shorter than me, hence the wrong size. Otherwise, it's perfect for me.
January 09, 2026, 12:54:40 AM 		1
Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
Quote from: sdicby87 on April 27, 2026, 06:34:23 AM
I installed SRAM BB (DUB T47 Road Bottom Bracket 85.5mm) with SRAM Force E1 2x crankset. Using 3mm spacer that came with BB, my non-drive side has bit of too much empty space. There is no play and I could not move it sideways. Plastic ring is maxed out, and it jumps if tightened more.

Torqued crankset to 54 Nm according to guide. Did I mis something or just need to order extra spacer?

If it jumps, the small screw is too loose. Tighten it a little more; then you should be able to tighten the preload until it no longer moves.
April 27, 2026, 08:37:32 AM 		1
Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
Quote from: sdicby87 on April 27, 2026, 06:34:23 AM
I installed SRAM BB (DUB T47 Road Bottom Bracket 85.5mm) with SRAM Force E1 2x crankset. Using 3mm spacer that came with BB, my non-drive side has bit of too much empty space. There is no play and I could not move it sideways. Plastic ring is maxed out, and it jumps if tightened more.

Torqued crankset to 54 Nm according to guide. Did I mis something or just need to order extra spacer?

That's not a spacer, it's the crankset bearing preloader. Loosen the screw on preloader and turn it all the way to the non-drive crank arm. Then tap the center of the drive side crank with a plastic or rubber mallet with mild force to get it in as far as it wants to go. Then turn the preloader til it *just* makes contact with the outside of the bearing cover on the non-drive side. Now tighten the small screw. It only needs to be tight enough to not loosen itself.
April 27, 2026, 10:06:18 AM 		1