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Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
No part on the clamp was missing on my seat post. I replaced all the bolts with Titanium bolts, just for fun. Is there also a Titanium version of part C? Do you have photos of your bike? My frame is already send. The colour looks nice on photos. July 16, 2025, 02:02:29 AM |
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Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
Did you use a 1 1/4" or 1 1/8" stem? 1 1/8" stem July 18, 2025, 09:29:36 AM |
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Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
Hi guys, Even though the R088 has mechanical cable routing it will be challenging. I would route all mechanical cables and hydraulic brakes first, before installing the bottom bracket. You'll need that BB space opening to fish the cable through. Also if you go with a regular bar setup with no internal routing, that should make things a bit easier. Even so, you'll still need to cut cables to size and you won't have much leeway if you decide to go with integrated bars in the future. In fact if you do go integrated later on, there's a chance you might have to redo the cable lines because they could be too short. Trace Velo loves the LTwoo R9, but I'm not the biggest fan. First he never mentions what a PITA is to access the clamping bolts on LTwoo shifters. Also if you ever need to replace the shift cable, it's a very convoluted process compared to Shimano mechanical shifters. You can find Shimano 105/Ultegra components for good prices on AliEx if you shop around. It'll cost slightly more, but the ease of installation is so much better. If you go LTwoo, I'd opt for electronic. I've worked on both LTwoo and Shimano mechanical, modern Shimano mechanical is so much better to work on especially for a first build. Though I actually like LTwoo brake calipers. Despite the use of adapter plates, I find they have more leeway for adjust compared to Shimano's standard flat mount setup. Anyways good luck! July 18, 2025, 11:12:02 AM |
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Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
I probably like the building more than the actual cycling xD Did yesterday 40km on a Nextbike as part of a gag Triathlon with a buddy. I really suffered. I would rate the R088 a moderate for bike building in terms of difficulty and that's with electronic! With full cabling it's definitely more challenging. I've build a bunch of different frames and I encounter problems on each and every build. Even if you think you figured things out, the next frame might have issues you've never accounted for. In terms of wheels, you can't really go wrong with an Elite Wheelset. They do have good customer service and I've never had issues with their wheels (other than the big logo). Though I tend to prefer DT Swiss style ratchet hubs. They're easier to service and repair in the long run. I believe the ENT wheels use a 4 pawl freehub. July 18, 2025, 12:22:22 PM |
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Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
Here are some photos from my recent rides, did about 40 miles of riding so far this week as part of some shakedown rides. I've run into a few issues, but I've either resolved them or they're being resolved -- with one small exception. Starting off with the easiest issue, the stem preload was a little loose after ~20 miles or so of riding. I only noticed this when slamming on the brakes as I was arriving home, anyway, that was easily resolved. I did use a torque wrench this time to get a sense of how much torque is being applied this time, and yeah, only about ~2 Nm of torque was necessary to remove all play, and then another 1/8th of a turn for some safety margin. I'm keeping an eye on this, and I have a longer stem plug coming for some extra insurance. The second issue I wrote about in my previous post, I'm missing the wedge washer that goes between the seat post and rear bolt so I'm unable to tighten that bolt with any confidence that it won't destroy the seat post. So I've resorted to tightening that bolt juuuust tight enough so as to maintain tension on the saddle rails. Anyway, this has led to my seat slipping slightly back, leading to a stretched out position and numb hands during the ride. The replacement SL8 seat clamp is coming Monday though, so this should be resolved soon. The third issue was that I experienced a chain drop when shifting from the small ring to the big ring. My carbon crank took a nice scrape from that, but thankfully I realized the chain was falling off pretty quick and stopped immediately, with no apparent damage to the frame or other components. This last issue is the result of a combination of a few factors: (1) synchro-shift on Di2 being too eager to over-shift to shift into the big ring, in addition to the fact that I was shifting under load while climbing, (2) my misunderstanding of the front derailleur alignment for 105 Di2, which follows a different system of setting limits from mechanical and ultegra/DA Di2, and (3) apparently the front derailleur hanger doesn't allow for the front-derailleur to be mounted tight with a slight toe-out (which is how 105 Di2 is aligned) -- it's mounted with a very slight toe-in, and there's no way to totally straighten the derailleur unless I was able to mount the FD further inboard somehow. I've mitigated factors 1 and 2 by adjusting the synchro-shift logic so as to only shift 1 gear instead of 2, and re-aligning the front-derailleur to the best of my ability. Factor 3 will be a massive pain to resolve, as I'm not even sure there's a bulletproof way to fix it. Maybe a soft shim / PPF to allow the mount to tilt slightly more in the front? Anyway, I believe I've mitigated the issue mostly by getting the alignment as best I could with the FD toeing out just the slightest and getting the micro-adjustments FD and RD perfect. Anyway, on to the good news -- the bike rides super quick, much quicker than my old chromoly steel bike, which this build has at least 10 lbs on. I'm setting new PRs with massive deltas on all of my local climbs, which is so satisfying. I'm certainly the limiting factor for this frame, it goes super quick. At the same time, the ride feels relatively dampened, so I will say it doesn't feel as "lively" as I thought it would, being such a light frame, I guess there could be some flex in the frame or it could be my choice of tires, which I know isn't the best in terms of rolling resistance. I'm happy with that, though, as I want a light, comfortable endurance-style whip to put down more miles this riding season. And on today's 20 mile ride, there were literally zero surprises with the bike  I'm absolutely smitten with the build and can't wait to take it out again.
July 20, 2025, 01:12:53 AM |
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