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Hydraulic Brake Hose Diameters and Interoperability
I'm looking to buy some bulk hydraulic hoses to keep in my home workshop, and I can't seem to find a clear answer on hose interoperability. Currently, I have Shimano XT BR-M8000, Shimano RS785, Formula R1, and Guide RSC hydraulic brakes. In short, my question is: do all of these brakes share the same hydraulic hoses? I believe the answer is yes as long as the inserts are correct. The "universal" hose in most cases has an outer diameter (OD) of 5.0mm and internal diameter (ID) of 2.1mm The XT's use the BH90 hose, which has an OD of 5.0mm and ID of 2.1mm. The RS785s use the BH59 hose with OD 5.0mm and 2.5mm ID (I think? can't find this answer, just know it's slightly larger than the BH90), however many have reported using the BH90s without issue. The only deviation I can find are Tektro and Hayes brakes that use hoses with 5.5mm OD and 2.5mm ID. January 17, 2018, 10:29:37 AM |
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Re: disc brake recommendations
I want to add that a couple years ago, I went with Juin Tech because they seemed to be a good compromise that let me use regular STI brake levers, and was a good price compromise versus purchasing expensive levers like the GRX. As many of us know, mtb. bike hydraulic brake levers are all based on mounting to 22.2mm flat bars, and road bike/gravel bike bars are 23.8mm diameter. This makes mixing and matching hydraulic brake difficult. My recent discovery and direction I am heading, is swapping my flared out gravel bars out with the Zinno carbon "H" bars. (Link below.) Then I have been using the Pro III hydraulic 4-piston brakes. Overall, for the 29er hardtail I installed this approach on, I have been very pleased. I purchased another set of Zinno bars and will upgrade to this same approach. If you are building up a new ride and are in the planning stage, I recommend looking into this approach. (Some riders don't like the shape and less drop/flare of the "H" bars.) https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804059388076.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.147.6f7d1802PhNG9i&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804577690212.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.6f7d1802PhNG9i&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa June 15, 2023, 12:47:04 PM |
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Re: Carbonda Gravel Carbon frame CFR707
In case anyone is wondering about current prices... CFR707 w/ Bar - $650 headset - $15 axles - $26 spacers $5 hangar - $8 shipping to US $190 paint $95 + transaction fees on payment are approx 5% All-in will be over $1k. Not bad but definitely more than I was expecting for an off-brand china frameset. March 21, 2024, 11:42:14 AM |
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The 100€ gravel alu frame from QI-Long actually arrived and its ok-ish quality.
It took 42 days to get here by train. It was packaged in two layers of green sack, one layers of cardboard and enough bubblewrap and tape to annoy me. PROS: It was über cheap and good tolerances. The fork is 100mm, rear dropout 135mm, bottom bracket straight as it can. CONS: The paint was chipped on multiple places because of the garbage handling during transport, the frames "internal" QC doesn't seems to exists, landfill headset bearings and ok quality derailer hanger. The BBs threads was cut after ordering as it was not cleaned out of the water/oil mixture, threads painted over on one side and most metal shawings left inside(took me a while to clean it). The fork/headtube doesn't have the holes de-burred on the inside, the first bottle cage rivet limits the seatposts insertion depth to only 275mm. Removing a star nut from the fork is impossible because of the rivet and metal. Dont have the parts to fully build the frame yet but what i cannot see wont bother me. Not the best image quality but its usable. Don't have images of the BBs threads as i cleaned it yesterday and the cups are impossible to remove without snapping my cheap zrace bb wrench. How it looks. The remaining metal bits in the headtube top and bottom. The fork. The seat tube. March 10, 2025, 01:36:43 PM |
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Re: Leese carbon crankset
Very nice and short! How tall are you if you don't mind me asking? I am interested in these cranks too and also want to experiment with shorter length.around 172cm. My inseam is 71cm ~ 28in which is the key here I've been using short 165mm cranks since 2014 when Shimano started making them regularly and bike companies started speccing them on bikes. In some bikes I'm at the minimum of the seat post insertion and I can't get Aero enough Rode the 150mm yesterday. It's a shock to my system as I've been training with 170mm lately (not by choice. My bikes were out of commission for a month). It forces you to spin more + use a bigger gear so you don't spin out I'll give this a shot until the end of the season. My other bike will remain with a 165mm. I have a gut feeling I'll end up with a 160mm April 25, 2025, 01:31:32 PM |
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Re: Leese carbon crankset
The instructions that come with these cranks are pretty poor. Cybrei’s instructions, on the other hand, are excellent. They advise using vernier calipers to measure your bottom bracket shell width, provide a detailed list of bottom bracket standards, and show the corresponding spacers or shims required. Since many of these cranks look very similar, clear and specific instructions like these are really helpful — and they’re readily available on the Cybrei website in English. The attached Cybrei PDF in Chinese has the BB spacing table. https://www.cybrei.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/%E6%9B%B2%E6%9F%84%E7%94%A8%E6%88%B7%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8C.pdf I’ll also measure from the centre of the bottle cage boss to the inside of each crank arm to ensure the distances are equal. This can help identify alignment issues in some cases. I’m using the DFS carbon crank, and they basically told me to follow Cybrei’s instructions, since they don’t supply their own as the have not managed to put on together yet!. I also contacted Passquest/Sprill, and they just sent me their standard instruction sheet again. May 01, 2025, 04:06:32 AM |
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JAVA FRENETICA Gravel Electric Assist full bike
Java has a complete e-gravel bike, very reasonably priced: https://28goods.com/en-us/products/java-frenetica-gravel-electric-assist?srsltid=AfmBOorq23ABN2yWdF-XcwINeILxufz5IbEdq3wrf5b3AtQzkDXyQPwo -40nm torque is not bad. -with 60km range max. -Cheap Sora components, which is expected at this price range. -However shipping from HK could add a few hundreds on top of the listed price. May 11, 2025, 12:21:07 PM |
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Got the frame - help me choose the rest: full size folding gravel bike
My frame from Taiwan arrived - and to build a gravel bike from it, I'm looking for parts suggestions for pretty much everything else. It's a bit of a 'special' frame, as I'm needing a foldable bike for short, overcrowded train rides to get out into the countryside. As I ride a Brompton as a city bike, that's the way to go. As there's little choice in full sized, foldable gravel bikes, the foldable MTB frame was my choice in the end. https://www.changebike.com/change-mountain-folding-frame-df-933b Here's a geometry comparison between a gravel bike that fit me well when riding (Rose Backroad AL 2024 size 53 haven't tried the 2025 one yet: https://www.rosebikes.com/rose-backroad-al-grx-rx400-2715780) and the measurements from an existing gravel conversion from that folding frame (flatbike in the US does that https://flatbike.com/product/folding-gravel-bike). https://www.bike-stats.de/geometrie_vergleich?Bike1=Changebike_Flatbike%20Road%20Warrior_2024_17&Bike2=Rose_Backroad%20AL_2024_53 Not the ideal gravel geometry, but I want to get as close as I can to the Backroad - with your help! As this is my first build (apart from several Bromptons), I have little to no preset parts in mind - and am looking for suggestions from the community. For the intended usage: Terrain: mostly flat (thinking 1x gearing), mix of tarmac, dirt roads and moderate single trails. I like the switch of being able to speed a bit on the road, woke being able to go considerably offroad in one and the same tour - and the frame allows for massive tire clearance. Possibly with more altitudes to come, so an upgrade/switch to 2x at some point without swapping the whole transmission would be nice to have, but not fundamental. Riding/trips: 75kg person, mainly from single day outings to weekend overnighters to occasional longer trips. A fork with mounting points would be nice. Budget: On one hand, I don't need to be cheap if it comes with considerable concessions for the riding experience that bug you, everyone you get on the bike. On the other hand, I am a big fan of good deals, value for money and the 80/20 rule. Plus - I have little prior gravel experience, so it's hard to estimate what really suits my likings in practice, so it might be smart to not splurge like die parts you're super certain about, especially geometry wise. Also, I'm not good at talking extraordinary care of bikes - and am happy if things just work for long time - without being pampered - or can be easily and affordably replaced. other: I'd like a lightweight build - without breaking the bank for the very last possible Milligramm (80/20 rule striking again). Especially since the frame itself is not the lightest already. E.g. I'm not sure about carbon wheelsets for example, possibly also due to my scepticism regarding disability/lifespan. Don't know what else could be helpful for context, let me know if I'm forgetting something fundamental. TLDR: Long story short, I need all parts - from the geometry related ones, fork, seatpost, handlebar etc. to the big parts like groupset and wheels - to all the small and tiny ones. Let me know your suggestions and picks for all and everything - I would love to learn and understand your thinking and choices! Here's a list of the given standards the frame is using: Bottom Bracket Shell 68mm (BSA) Head Tube / Headset: Semi-integrated,Top:1-1/8",Bottom:1.5" Rear Dropouts / Axle Type: QR 135mm Brake Mounts: IS mount Front Derailleur Mount: Clamp Seatpost Diameter: 31.6mm Derailleur Hanger: Standard Brake rotor size compatibility: 160mm Tire Clearance max.: 27.5*2.1 May 16, 2025, 04:12:06 PM |
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Re: The 100€ gravel alu frame from QI-Long actually arrived and its ok-ish quality.
It takes your bog standard threaded BB. I used BB-MT800 and there was not a single issues threading in. As my part lists: Deore 12 speed m6100 derailer, shifter, 51-10 casette and m9100 chain. Neco semi integrated cartridge headset bearing, noname adjustable stem, noname alu handlebar aka what my lbs had in stock. MT200 hydraulic front brake, noname mechanical rear disc brake, aliexpress 203mm front and zrace floating 180mm rear brake rotor. Noname alu seatpost, noname saddle. Zraze blade crankset, zrace 6mm offset 36t chainring, mzryh alu platform pedal. Noname metal front and rear fenders, noname front and rear light. Shimano front hub dynamo with noname rim and dt spokes/nipples(laced myself). Goldix GDX370 star ratchet microspline rear hub, noname rim with dt spokes/nipples(lbs laced). Continental Contact Speed tyres. Not the most high end build but it rides really really nicely. Every part is from aliexpress except for the noname stuff which is from my lbs. June 03, 2025, 03:21:00 PM |
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Re: Quick Pro GR:One - First one in the wild? build suggestions / hack to 2x
Hey everyone, While I’m still waiting for the handlebar parts like spacers, bolts, and so on, I decided to use the weekend to figure out how to shim the frame for a front derailleur. At first I tried measuring everything and building it in CAD, but the shapes are way too complex for that. Then I remembered photogrammetry, the method of turning photos into 3D models. I looked into it, tested a few tools, and after a few hours I actually managed to get a pretty decent 3D scan of the bottom bracket and seat tube area. Because of the reflective carbon surface, I lightly dusted the frame with flour to improve the scan quality. That worked surprisingly well. see below. The tricky part was scaling the mesh correctly, but I got it accurate to about 0.1 mm across the bottom bracket area. That should be more than enough. Worst case, the 3D print will have some play or I’ll just sand it slightly to get a perfect fit. Used software was, Photocatch, Meshlab, Freecad, and recorded the video for the scan on my phone, was way easier and quicker than using pictures. ![]() Let me know what you think. I’m also thinking about getting the Wheeltop GEX groupset as a second setup. I would move the Ultegra / GRX Di2 from my Cube Cross Race and pass that frame on to someone in the family. The GR:ONE will stay as the 2x experiment and the Cube could run 1x, which should be totally fine for most rides. The Wheeltop set is already in my AliExpress cart. I’m waiting for some new coupon codes, but at the moment it would cost around 430 euros. I already have enough cranks at home, so I would probably get a XD or XDS freehub with a 10–46T cassette in the back and maybe reuse the Ultegra crank with a 46T chainring, or even go up to 50T. I’ll share more once the parts arrive. July 13, 2025, 12:29:00 PM |
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