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Re: VB TT-023: Here comes a new build Hello Boulete,

I built two of these bikes last year, one for myself and another for a friend, and I also ordered a third one for another friend (he will assemble it with a mechanic in Brazil).

Let me share a bit of my experience.

Regarding the spacers: I initially built the first two bikes (mine and my friend’s) for a 70.3 race here in Italy, and we both had the problem of the front end being too low. After the race, I contacted Chris and asked for two spacer kits with bolts to raise the front end up to 9 cm. He supplied all the material quickly. For the third bike, which is for a very tall friend, I requested from the start to raise it 12 cm, and the kit was sent perfectly.

About raising the front end only with spacers: there’s a risk we reach a point where the system starts to become fragile. Ideally, there should be a stem designed in different lengths and heights. (I’m thinking about trying to design those parts myself later, but I don’t know if 3D printing would be the solution—it would need testing).

I assembled mine with Shimano Di2, and it was chaos to route all the cables, so for a new build I strongly recommend what you did—SRAM all the way.

For the finishing of the blips on the aerobar and handlebar, check out a company called LEAP. They make amazing products.

For the Garmin mount, I simply bought a generic aluminum one on Aliexpress and screwed it onto the central bar between the two aerobars. Does it work? Yes! Is it pretty? No!
I even sketched out a design of a piece very similar to yours to replace the stock metal one. My idea was to make it CNC-machined in metal, longer so that I’d have more options for positioning the aerobars further forward, with an extension in the middle to mount both the bottle and another Garmin holder. I also thought about the 3D-printing option, but again, I don’t know the resistance level a printed part would have. For your design, I recommend adding grooves or ridges to the flat sections to generate more strength. A plain flat surface will be weak. At the joints where segments meet, always keep rounded corners—never sharp ones.

Regarding the holes in the stem, I work in a bicycle factory here in Italy, and I could send you two plugs to cover them, free of charge—you’d only need to pay for shipping. Or I could send you a picture of what they are, and you can check if you can find them in a bike shop over there.
October 09, 2025, 04:40:00 AM 		1
Re: VB TT-023: Here comes a new build
Quote from: kevinmx1 on October 14, 2025, 07:59:03 AM
Hi Maliba,

I just read your post about the chaos to route cable inside the frame. I'm actually thinking and listing all the parts to build this frame beginning of next year. I was thinking to build it with a shimano 105, because i want a double front rotor (can be discussed by everybody, but i prefer to climb on an easy way with a 34 or 36 rotor, instead of a solo 48 or 50)

And why a mecanical rather than electronic, 1st -> budget, 2nd -> i like "old schools" things :D

Do you think it's possible to route it ?

Thank you

Good morning,

Let’s go step by step: according to Chris from Velobuild, the frame allows for a mechanical setup (I’ll comment more on that later).
If it were electronic, both SRAM and Shimano can be installed with a double chainring (standard).

Shimano electronic TT builds are quite tricky, because Shimano never produced components for a fully wireless 12-speed TT group. In other words, on the rear side of the bike you have all the Shimano 12v Di2 components (rear derailleur, front derailleur, and battery) — you set them up just like on a road bike. Then you need to add a third 12v electronic cable into the third port of the battery. This cable connects to a junction that converts 12v into 11v (the cables are very different). From that point on, everything will be wired with the older 11v standard cables.

At that junction, another 11v cable runs into a 4-port junction box (there are some models with 5 ports, but I used the 4-port because it’s much smaller). Out of the 4 ports, one will already be occupied by the cable coming from the battery that converted 12v into 11v. I then ran a single cable to each blip on the aerobar, and used a Y-cable for the brake levers. Here’s the catch: with this configuration I had a hard time fitting the stem into the fork and frame, because the Y-cable got in the way.

So, I routed the Y-cable to the brake levers inside the handlebar, plugged it into a junction (which I tucked inside the handlebar), and from there I ran just one long cable into the box. This way, inside my stem I ended up with 2 hydraulic hoses and 3 Di2 11v cables.

The build has to be done in reverse compared to the usual order where the handlebar is installed last. In fact, it’s much easier to assemble the handlebar first, already with the brake levers and all hydraulic/electronic cables installed, then slide everything into the stem, and finally into the fork/frame.

For a mechanical setup, you’ll need to route all the cables fully through everything. The stem will be your main challenge, but maybe if you follow the same process (assemble the handlebar first and then feed everything into the frame), it could be a bit easier. The stem is very narrow for so many cables, but it’s worth trying.

That’s why SRAM electronic ends up being the simplest and easiest solution — though still expensive.

Best regards,
October 14, 2025, 09:29:08 AM 		1
Re: VeloBuild VB-TT-023
Quote from: kevinmx1 on November 14, 2025, 12:40:10 PM
i'm pretty sure of everything, but i don't understand why all the crankset are specified "BB wide 68/70mm", but the velobuild need a 86.5mm  :o
For Cransket 52/36 - shimano RS510 Shimano recomended BB-RS501 with Threaded bottom bracket shell width (mm) 68/70mm or BB-RS501-PB with Press-Fit bottom bracket shell width (mm) 86.5 mm. T47 86.5 will be compatible, IMHO.
Like this https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005005987688207.html A-T47-24(86.5MM)
November 14, 2025, 01:17:52 PM 		1