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Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road) more shims required maybe?

Hi guys,
I just finished my new build but am experiencing play in the headset unfortunately. I am sure this was addressed some times earlier here but I did not find a proper solution anyway and hope you can help me.
I am using the bearings from light carbon but the following stem spacers and top cap.: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuoqYTG

But if I tighten the top cap slightly (like normal) I have significant play back and forth in the headset.
The play disappears only if I thighten the top cap >2.5 NM. This makes no sense and also the steering I not rideable stiff.
I double checked the mounting direction of the bearings, they are correct.
The angle of the cut of the fork is not ideal. See attached pictures. Could this be the problem bc the compression plug is not at the right angle if thightend?
Do you have any other ideas what I could try?
Also when mounting everthing multiple times the compression plug became loose it seemed, this seemed also strange to me.

Thanks alot in advance.

April 19, 2026, 05:35:56 PM
1
Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
But if I tighten the top cap slightly (like normal) I have significant play back and forth in the headset.

Also when mounting everthing multiple times the compression plug became loose it seemed, this seemed also strange to me.

Thanks alot in advance.
Hello, just to be sure, the order of tightening the screws on the cockpit: expander plug -> top cap -> handlebar pinch bolts.
I made the rookie mistake of tightening the pinch bolts first and then the expander plug / top cap. So tightening the top cap in the end always pulls the expander plug out since the handlebar can't move.

April 20, 2026, 02:35:34 AM
1
Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
Hi guys,
I just finished my new build but am experiencing play in the headset unfortunately. I am sure this was addressed some times earlier here but I did not find a proper solution anyway and hope you can help me.
I am using the bearings from light carbon but the following stem spacers and top cap.: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuoqYTG

But if I tighten the top cap slightly (like normal) I have significant play back and forth in the headset.
The play disappears only if I thighten the top cap >2.5 NM. This makes no sense and also the steering I not rideable stiff.
I double checked the mounting direction of the bearings, they are correct.
The angle of the cut of the fork is not ideal. See attached pictures. Could this be the problem bc the compression plug is not at the right angle if thightend?
Do you have any other ideas what I could try?
Also when mounting everthing multiple times the compression plug became loose it seemed, this seemed also strange to me.

Thanks alot in advance.

Just before tightening the top cap, is there a gap of about 5 mm between the top cap and the top of the steerer tube, that is, the compression plug? I guess you’ve probably already checked this, but if there isn’t enough gap, you’ll need to either add a shim or cut a bit more off the steerer tube. Also, in that case, the compression plug might already be damaged, so it’s worth checking.

April 20, 2026, 09:17:21 AM
1
Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road) Seeing a lot of frustration about lead times on this $700 frame.

Yes, if they say X days, reality might be closer to 2X. Mine arrived about two months later than first promised. Was it annoying? Sure.

But also… perspective matters.

We’re ordering highly customizable carbon frames direct from overseas for a fraction of what big brands charge. Incredible value, tons of options, and a seriously good end product. That combo usually comes with a trade-off somewhere, and in this case it’s patience.

We can’t have premium quality, bargain pricing, full customization AND Amazon Prime speed all at once.

So if your frame is running late: take a breath, ride the bike you already own, maybe stop refreshing tracking for the 14th time today, and remember there are bigger problems in life.

Good things come to those who wait. Mine did.

April 23, 2026, 01:56:17 AM
1
Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

Hi!
I have issues with my Magene P515 and the lightcarbon bb. When installing the crankset first, i head a gap/play to the bb. I installed it with 1-1.5mm (not sure anymore) spacers afterwards and the play was gone. Everything ist tight and runs smooth.
But when going for my first ride, i noticed a creaking, rattling noise on the left side crank when applying higher torque (>300NM approx) to the left pedal.
Has anyone experience with Magene P515? could it be the BB of the left side is not installed perfectly or is it maybe the preload of the crank arm that is too tight or loose?

Thanks guys :-)

I think 300NM is a bit too much :)) I guess you meant 30NM hahaha

I know it's a fairly common problem, try following the instructions backwards and trying to install the crankset again. If there's excessive movement, it's never a good sign, and I don't think it's related to the BB.

Try asking Magene himself instead. If you email the seller, they'll get back to you without any problems https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005506880823.html :)

April 30, 2026, 04:06:29 AM
1
Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road) I'm not at home right now, if i remember correctly yes i put in on the drive side.

I'll check later and edit this post.

Edit: cant see it on the non-drive side so it has to be on the drive side.

April 30, 2026, 06:37:24 AM
1
Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
Ah, ok.
I ordered an inline and a -15, but I now know I won’t be using the -15 so it’s available.

On previous frames when I’ve encountered slipping, I just spray the lower of the seat post with a few coats of clear coat to evenly add some more thickness.

It usually improves the situation

Helpful tips deserve more praise. In that spirit, I'd like to say a huge thank you for the trick with the clear coat on the seatpost. I also applied several layers of clear coat, and the seatpost, which previously made a terrible creaking noise, is now quiet. I used this one... because I had it at home: https://www.bike-components.de/en/Spray-Bike/Frame-Builder-s-Transparent-Finish-p74147/?o=1000264114-clear-matte-400-ml

April 30, 2026, 08:57:13 AM
1
Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
Hi all again,
i still cant fix the issue.
I reinstalled crankset AND bb multiple times, using alot of grease and the correct torque. i also used spacers to eliminate play in the bb. Everything runs smovely and without any noise, when using the small chainring. But when using the big chainring and applying force the left pedal, there are these weird noises. I can rule out the chainring and pedals too, because i also reinstalled them and on the small chainring everything is perfect.
A lot of research let me come to the conclusion, that the BB does seem to not be able to handle the torque/torsion of the crank spindle when using left pedal with big power and using the big chainring.
Has anyone any experiences like this? What else can I try besides buying a new bearing?

I have something similar with my cheap Think Rider Alu Crank set (L165mm/D24mm) and power meter, normal pedaling is fine, but as soon you put a bit more power into it, you hear a chain rub on one spot of the chainring. I assume it's the cheap crank set in my case.

I had the same with a RIRO carbon crank set (L165/D29), which i had installed with a cheap ceramic BB. In this case it was the BB itself, it had to much play, even when pre-loaded correctly you could basically twist the axle in the BB shell. I have to make a picture of the spindle later today, because there is a specific wear pattern on the spindle (paint), which is 180° appeared on left and right of it.

May 04, 2026, 07:35:48 AM
1
Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
Hi all again,
i still cant fix the issue.
I reinstalled crankset AND bb multiple times, using alot of grease and the correct torque. i also used spacers to eliminate play in the bb. Everything runs smovely and without any noise, when using the small chainring. But when using the big chainring and applying force the left pedal, there are these weird noises. I can rule out the chainring and pedals too, because i also reinstalled them and on the small chainring everything is perfect.
A lot of research let me come to the conclusion, that the BB does seem to not be able to handle the torque/torsion of the crank spindle when using left pedal with big power and using the big chainring.
Has anyone any experiences like this? What else can I try besides buying a new bearing?

Are you sure it isn't your seatpost causing the noise?

Your story sounds very familiar to my own situation right after building my bike. Small chainring (relatively little power) no noise, and large chainring (more power) noises. I could also swear the sound was coming from the bottom bracket, but it turned out to be the seatpost making the noise.

Perhaps a simple question to rule out whether it is the seatpost: Do you also hear the sound when you apply force to your pedals while standing upright? Or only when you are sitting on the saddle?

May 04, 2026, 08:30:38 AM
1
Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
I have something similar with my cheap Think Rider Alu Crank set (L165mm/D24mm) and power meter, normal pedaling is fine, but as soon you put a bit more power into it, you hear a chain rub on one spot of the chainring. I assume it's the cheap crank set in my case.

I had the same with a RIRO carbon crank set (L165/D29), which i had installed with a cheap ceramic BB. In this case it was the BB itself, it had to much play, even when pre-loaded correctly you could basically twist the axle in the BB shell. I have to make a picture of the spindle later today, because there is a specific wear pattern on the spindle (paint), which is 180° appeared on left and right of it.

So for now I'm waiting to get some other crank with D24mm in carbon and maybe a power meter to replace the Think Rider alu one.

But you can see on the D29mm spindle that there was a lot of play on the ball bering, otherwise the wear pattern would look like this. At least i think that the ball bearing was the culprit.


May 05, 2026, 12:16:18 AM
1