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Re: Lightcarbon LCR020 35c clearance aero frame
Quote from: Swatt on July 27, 2026, 05:05:14 AM
I need some advice for my next frame  :)

If money was not a factor in choosing the best frame among the LCR020, the QuickPro ER:One and the XMCS VRT, would you still consider the LCR020 ? Yes, it is cheaper so there will be more money left for wheels and groupset, but...

1) 105 Di2 is enough, I do not need Ultegra or Dura-Ace (especially since I want 36T in the back, so that means 105 is mandatory)
2) I do not want super-light wheels with carbon spokes since I am relatively heavy (80 kg) and roads are terrible in my area (northern Italy)

I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. You'd get the quick pro the fastest. You must like their paint jobs. The 20D is a gamble timing wise, you may not get your frame until march, depending on a million things. The vrt is one piece monocoque, the head tube is probably a bit more hourglass shaped, and is probably a bit faster in a wind tunnel. It costs significantly more than the 20D. Neither have had prototyping done with strong riders feedback. I assume they have similar geometries (didn't check the quick pro closely myself because of the paint and logo). If you want a bike yesterday, get the quick pro. If you want it this year, vrt. If you can afford to wait until the winter, the 20D would save you money and is almost guaranteed to put a smile on your face when you ride it. These 3 are very good bikes, buying "the best" realistically simply doesn't matter.
July 27, 2026, 06:07:20 AM 		1
Re: Lightcarbon LCR020 35c clearance aero frame I ordered the LCR020 with HBR20 ~4 weeks ago. Delivery estimated at the end of 2026.

Wendy notified me that there is currently no plan to sell the LCR020 with downtube storage. Despite the initial info that it will have that option.

I'm not a big fan of downtube storage anyways, but this might be bad news for some.
July 27, 2026, 01:14:53 PM 		1
Re: Lightcarbon LCR020 35c clearance aero frame
Quote from: Samuel BMR on July 28, 2026, 03:33:46 AM
Which one is the HBR20?! The riser one? Can’t find any info on it

Yeah, that's the one (see picture). Dont't know why they still keep it a secret :-)

I attached the final offer if someone is interested. in total incl. paintjob + shipping to europe + wheelset + components + 86$ Paypal fee i paid: 1987$
July 28, 2026, 05:35:05 AM 		1
Re: Conti GP 5000 35C: a new standard for road frames? I just build gravel wheels for my mate with maisve XMCS rims and I had conti 35mm at home for different project so I tried to mount them on those rims. I think in the end it looks pretty cool, pretty much perfect rim tyre combination I might build something like this for myself tyre on back is conti str 32mm on 28mm internal width measures 35mm. That conti 35mm on front on 32.5mm interneal rim width measures exactly 40mm.

I tried this setup on a quick ride with and I pretty much expected to feel no difference, but I really like that feel of grip and confidence that it gives me in fast corners and I really enjoy this setup.
Iam not the best descender in the world, but with this setup I had masive smile on my face on the bottom of my biggest local technical descend :), so I think this monster road mullet setup is future for me :)
August 08, 2026, 02:27:18 AM 		1
Re: Seraph Bikes Superlight 836g X68 - Alternative to SL8 Fakes? Hey All,

Update on my super old reply number 824 in this thread (May 4, 2025 on page 55).  Bike has been great up until last week.  Nearly 6000 miles over 14 months or so.  Bottom bracket sleeve on drive side has come loose and is rocking in the frame.  Still waiting on reply from TanTan customer service to see what they'll do, but if they offer a $150 replacement as they have for others I will probably decline.  Bike has been fine and not sure for the price this isn't to be expected, but personally hate the feeling of waiting for something to go wrong and will probably go with a brand with better reputation in the future unless they go above previous support they have offered others.  Thought those still considering a purchase would like the information!
August 15, 2026, 11:42:10 AM 		1
Re: New Avenger R8-RS Yes, I'm after two rides, I did around 90 km for now. I have a race on Sunday so I have tapering, no big watts however I hit around 950 w for a quick and short sprint. I haven't noticed anything unusual. All is stable, tight and no play. Yesterday I did some small adjustments on my saddle and I checked the handlebar and headset, all is good, I checked the torque, I have 4 Nm on those elements, as it is in the manual - I attached it to the post.
August 20, 2026, 01:07:38 AM 		1
Re: New Avenger R8-RS
Quote from: CoffeeNbikes on August 17, 2026, 06:32:33 PM
What did you do to solve issue? You overtighten the top cap or the stem bolts? I have same issue. Thanks
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,7448.0.html

I didn't know about the torque spec, I didn't receive the manual. When I asked them, they gave me much higher values 8 Nm for the stem (it is written on it but I couldn't figure out whether it was 3 or 8 Nm) and 12 Nm for the expander. Torque spec of the top cap is not really relevant because the torque needed to remove the play is different for every bike. The best torque is as low as possible with no play. The value of 4 Nm they gave is maybe an average value, but certainly not the max torque the screw can withstand.
So at the beginning, I screwed the top cap (probably lower than 4 Nm) enough to have no play in static with the front brake test. After a ride, I had play. I progressively screwed the top cap higher and higher until 8 Nm (max torque I found for this type of screw), it was better but the play came again after a few rides. I tested then 12 Nm (I'm pretty sure the screw can withstand 20 Nm before rupture), again much better. But still not perfect. The play is less and it has taken more time to comeback but I still have a slight play. My guess is that the plastic spacers (I use 6) are creeping with load, they reduce slightly in thickness and thus preload of the headset dissapears. Now I'm thinking of repeating the procedure I mentioned in my second post. Maybe the creeping will reduce over time if the plastic becomes harder. I'll look if the play takes more time to come back. If I don't resolve the issue I'm thinking to modify the spacers : remove material in the middle to put hard carbon spacers and use the original plastic spacers as a "cap" for aero and aesthetics.

In addition to that, I might try carbon paste on the fork/stem to make sure it's not sliding.

I also had 2 thin metal spacers for the headset that are not shown in the manuel. I have put one under the lower plastic spacer and one above the upper one.
August 22, 2026, 05:46:40 AM 		1
Re: New Avenger R8-RS I'm after 5 rides, and that includes one race. I have no issues with the headset, I did all based on the manual, so as follows, expander 10 Nm, screws and cap bolt 4 Nm. Usually it's around 5 Nm, sometimes it's 6 Nm. I have never seen more than 6 Nm for the carbon handlebar. I checked the values on my two torque wrenches. I attached the screen and my photo of the bike. I used 4 cm of spacers so 8 spacers. Are you sure that you assembled the spacers correctly, and the handlebar is properly connected/inserted. There are some holes and pins. The metal spacer/washer should go on the cable port grommet, it's not in the manual. Lastly, maybe the fork was not cut properly ? There is no space of too much space? Could you provide some photo of the bike and the space between the fork/spacers ?
August 24, 2026, 02:33:28 AM 		1