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Re: New Avenger R8-RS
Frame received a few weeks ago. Built with Dura Ace and Campagnolo Bora Ultra 60 wheelset for a total weight of 7,12 kg. The bike is insanely fast (coming from a 2009 Cube and a 2014 sub-6 kg Focus Izalco Max 0.0). Stack is indeed very low, I almost wanted to ask for more spacers but ended up with just the standard 6x5mm spacers. It's an aero bike after all and that would have been not really nice aesthetically. I actually feel very good on the bike now, quite comfortable. I had some issues with some screws and engaging the thread in the nuts (used a tap to clean the threads). Another issue is that I have to apply a lot of torque on the headset to remove any play (there is enough space between expander and top plate and bearings are not compressed at all). I'm guessing it's because there is a lot of friction between the fork and stem. Headset fine tuning was not easy, but maybe I'm just bad. Really happy with the frame regardless. The frame came with both a steel bolt kit and a titanium bolt kit. I suspect the titanium bolts are from S-Parts, a brand commonly used by bike shops in China. While they aren't cheap, they do seem to suffer from occasional QC/tolerance issues. The steel bolts thread in perfectly, but some holes felt a bit tight with the included titanium ones. In particular, the M6 × 15mm bolt for the seatpost wedge clamp wouldn't thread in at all when using the provided titanium bolt. Switching back to the included steel bolt—or using a titanium one I bought separately—worked flawlessly. July 09, 2026, 10:38:53 AM |
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Re: New Avenger R8-RS
Here you are. The look is certainly better without spacers, but it doesn't look bad this way either. If I may offer a suggestion: I would remove one 5mm spacer so that the bottom of the stem aligns with the top tube. 
July 10, 2026, 02:39:29 AM |
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Re: Issue with Avenger R8-RS headset
that stem torque sounds high, but if it's what it says on the tin... I would torque the top cap more, and the stem less (or the same). I have never heard of gear destruction from high torque on top caps - but carbon stems do break fast. Point here is that i dont think you have play because the stem is under torqued, but it's likely because the top cap / whole vertical column is under torqued. ofc, if you torque higher, makes sure the compression plug isn't slipping up the steerer tube. Once you've removed headset play, you can back off the top cap torque, as stuff is hold in place by the stem at that point. all the more reason to temporarily torque up that stem cap bolt. years ago velobuild had a C ring in metal, solid piece, prone to play. They then shipped one a slot, solved many problems. Since then the C rings i ve seen have been made of plastic. if your bearings are sitting clean in the frame (no obvious tolerance issue), as long as the bearings don't start to grind / rub, i think you can continue compressing that column a fair bit. I wouldnt be too concerned until at least 12nm, because you'll back off once the stem is torqued. Ofc, you're torquing the stem AFTER you've compressed the column, right? 
July 22, 2026, 08:29:59 AM |
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Re: New Avenger R8-RS
The frame looks interesting and aesthetically pleasing too, but as far as I'm concerned, there's one detail that would really put me off... the brand name Avenger. Question: has anyone who rides an Avenger frame ever been teased by their riding buddies because of the name (Avenger > superhero)? 
August 06, 2026, 03:11:48 AM |
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Re: New Avenger R8-RS
Answering your question, I believe yes, but probably you would need to work on spacers. The shape of it is rather unusual. I promised some more photos and data, here you go - some weighting of the frameset. In my opinion it's not bad - https://youtu.be/ULC6ZW79f9w?is=SnlJQ3HM6drWxIO5 Most important information from my side is that definitely the geometry is quite different and someone above noticed that correctly! I don't know if that is really 30 mm, or even more, but it's not correct. I calculated all in the bikegeocalc.com and with only one or even no spacers the stack with the 120 mm stem should be the same as on my Shuttle SL. I assembled the frame with some wheels and seatpost only, to verify it before full assembling of the bike. That was really smart decision and I done some measurements from the floor! With one spacers I was around 4 cm lower than shuttle, only some quick measurements. So I decided to put all spacers and even add one round, they gave me only 3 cm of spacers. After that I hit my assumed and perfect handlebar height, the same as on my shuttle. Then I calculated the height of the saddle and the desired drop/grip drop will be reached. Unfortunately, I got only 6 spacers, so I'm waiting for 2 more from Avenger. Except that, the frameset is really stunning! Painting, how it's made, the set, all is perfect! August 10, 2026, 10:06:39 AM |
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Re: New Avenger R8-RS
Okay, so my build is finished. Just quick update from my perspective. I build the bike myself, like the others and previous Avenger Shuttle SL. I'm having Tagoola Pulse 50UL and 1x12 SRAM AXS with Force shifters and the rest is RED. As I will probably use XMCS crank, I bought the tripeak 3 in 1 BB. In general, i had no issues with cables, or with BB or screws, or honestly with any element of the frameset. Assembling was pretty easy and fast, I did all based on the R8-RS user manual. Only one elements is missing in the user manual, the screws and elements that holds the upper bearing or I haven't seen it. The routing with the Y bar was a pleasure and there is only one way of going thru. Those two pieces are very easy to connect. Top cap is pretty funny and with unusual shape. I'm wondering if 4 Nm and enough for handlebar and fixing screws. I will check and verify that on the ride today. I didn't encountered any issue with the headset play. I used 4 Nm for the top cap as adviced. No information what should be the tightening power for the handlebar and stem. Seatpost and clamp the same, no issue, Nm as in the manual. I didn't cut the seatpost. For the axles a used 10 Nm at the moment. I used 4 cm of spacers so 8 of them, not looks very bad, of course without any of them is the best. However, as I mentioned previously, after calculation I have the same level as on my shuttle. For me the comfort is the most important, I will survive how it looks. I will prepare some reel and post on my instagram of course. For now the weight is less than 7 kg in size 58, with pedals, bottle cages, garmin and varia mount. August 18, 2026, 05:57:50 AM |
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Re: New Avenger R8-RS
I'm after 5 rides, and that includes one race. I have no issues with the headset, I did all based on the manual, so as follows, expander 10 Nm, screws and cap bolt 4 Nm. Usually it's around 5 Nm, sometimes it's 6 Nm. I have never seen more than 6 Nm for the carbon handlebar. I checked the values on my two torque wrenches. I attached the screen and my photo of the bike. I used 4 cm of spacers so 8 spacers. Are you sure that you assembled the spacers correctly, and the handlebar is properly connected/inserted. There are some holes and pins. The metal spacer/washer should go on the cable port grommet, it's not in the manual. Lastly, maybe the fork was not cut properly ? There is no space of too much space? Could you provide some photo of the bike and the space between the fork/spacers ?
August 24, 2026, 02:33:28 AM |
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Re: New Avenger R8-RS
Just for others, the short manual how to assemble the handlebar. The manual is also attached to my previous post, but I added it here one more time. Regarding the geometry, the most important is that is not correct! You should reduce 3 cm from the stack, it's lower! I can show you the numbers later. That is why I have 8 spacers so 4 cm instead of 2 spacers as I assumed! Some quick update before some final review. Bike is really great, I was on the race in the mountains, Tatra Road Race, ~82 km, 2300 up, no issues. Conditions so the weather was really terrible, so wind and rain, and I felt very confident on it.
September 07, 2026, 02:05:48 AM |
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