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Mechanical pull disc brakes list - 140/160mm - road bikes
Cable operated hydraulic: Juin tech - R1 (post mount) - two calipers, 160mm disc = $130 - two piston - made in Taiwan - forged/CNC AL - 160mm only (?) - 154g/ea Juin tech - F1 (flat mount) Juin tech - M1 (side mtn mount) PRO A8000 - two calipers, 140mm disc, pads = $55 - two piston ("double sided synchronous drive") - CNC machine AL, one Ti screw - heatsink style brake pads - floating disk rotors - 140mm only (rear 70mm front 35mm spacing) some reviewers complain because they thought it would work on 160mm.. - 140g/ea ZTTO (same as the PRO A8000, just different pads) - two calipers, 140mm disc, pads = $51 - 270g/both ZRACE BR-002 (same as above again) XOOM XTECH HB100 - two calipers, 120/140/160mm disc = $50 - two piston - no brake pad included (?) - 190g/ea Reviews here: https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/any-experiences-with-the-zoom-xtech-hb-100-brakes-too-cheap/ (positive) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIEzwkr80fA (negative) https://forums.mtbr.com/components/hydro-caliper-cable-actuated-advise-1090865.html (negative, leaks oil after a month or so) Giant Conduct system - requires special stem - hard to find, not sure if its still sold Cable only: Avid BB7 - two calipers, 160mm disc, pads = $55 - single piston (?) - easy adjustment mechanism - 210g/ea TEKTRO MD-C550 - two calipers, pads ~$100 - two piston - 140/160mm capable - 170g/ea TRP SPYRE FM - $170 Two piston seems common, anything one piston or pure mechanical seems not worth it. Four piston is available (Juin GT-F) but incredibly expensive. So far I'm happy with ZTTO gear: - SPD pedals last a year already (they use bushings not ball bearings, so not so surprising) - BBs work well - Cassettes have some flaws apparently But reliability here is more important, if piston leaks, brakes can fail to operate. August 07, 2020, 03:16:04 PM |
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Re: ZTTO BB92 BB86 threaded bottom brackets.
I did put one on my 062 few months ago, changed the steel bearings immediately, with good ones, as they were with metal sleeves. No problem so far. Screwing the two cups together until flush, make the assembly strong. I did put loctite compound over the last centimeter on each side before pressing. October 15, 2020, 09:56:20 AM |
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Re: Recommendations for cockpit parts
Here is a side picture:
November 08, 2020, 11:25:29 AM |
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Re: ZRace Disc Brakes
Would you recommend a supplier of sintered pads. If you are in Europe, you can try https://www.mtb-brakepads.nl/ The brand they sell is https://www.cyclotech-components.com/ Another option is to buy pads from Aliexpress. This shop has good ones: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1230228 Here are the sintered: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000622330062.html February 15, 2021, 11:04:38 AM |
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Re: Subcompact cranksets
In the Prowheel catalog there is this crankset with 46/30 chainring http://www.pro-wheel.com.tw/main/?product=dma-cr100a-tt but in Aliexpress now is not available https://it.aliexpress.com/store/910333149?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4ea07d12NsEAvh March 29, 2021, 06:56:56 AM |
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Re: Electronic devices
Here are my current tools: Strava(subscriber) has a great route generation tool on mobile. Strava have their heatmap, all tracks/roads people went to. A gold mine. But then I send them to Komoot, for review/rework. Komoot has precises terrain info and types. eg: avoid main roads, cobbles, or maximize single tracks for MTB(but manual), etc. And start to have many points of interest referenced by the community. If they had the quick finger mapping of Strava, I would just ditch out Strava. I then use the Karoo 2 to record my rides and navigation. After using the Wahoo Bolt for a few years. Karoo has a neater navigation, touchscreen, real colors. Unfortunately they just compete with other bike computers. Same poor in-ride interface, with ungraphical pages with numbers. They could do real breakthrough interfaces with such hardware. It is Android below, we are in 2021... It has only ~7h autonomy, with bluetooth off and minimal lightning to be visible a sunny day. It has some other quirks: rerouting is pitiful the karoo connects to wifi, but you need to go through an odd web page to load a track the powermeter is lost when you pause BUT... I love it. Their support is amazing. For instance they are currently fixing the power meter issue, and I'm sure it will come soon in one of their regular update. April 15, 2021, 03:44:26 PM |
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Re: Electronic devices
I'll start. GPS Bike Computer Xoss G+ https://www.xoss.co/pages/xoss-g.html http://aliexpress.com/item/4000971650483.html For around 35€ a nice simple bike computer with ANT+ and Bluetooth. Supports Speed/Cadence/Heartrate Sensor. GPS connection is okay, the GPS fix takes sometimes a bit longer (could be the place where I live), and sometimes it loses the connection while riding in the forest. iGPSport iGS520 https://www.igpsport.com/igs520 https://aliexpress.com/item/1005001338284700.html I bought it because I was very curious how good/bad the cheapest GPS bike computer with Navigation is. The price was around 70€. The computer itself works great, you can connect your Powermeter, configure which data you want to see on the pages, both things the Xoss can't do. Compared to a friends Wahoo it was also pretty accurate. Now to the Navigation part. I only tried it with the first Firmware 1.05 (?), the current one is 1.10, which might have some improvements. The iGS520 has no internal maps, so it only shows you the route and gives you directions when to turn, which is fine for me as I usually ride in my home area. Route planning is done via the iGPSport app. And it sucks. You can set the waypoints on a Google Maps map, but you can't edit/move the already set waypoints anymore. It's also more road riding orientated, planning a MTB route is even worse. Last time I tried to transfer the route to the iGS520 the App went into a loop where it starts at 0% again after the upload was at 100%. You can log into the iGPSport Website and import .gpx-Files and also create routes for your Routebook there. But if you try to upload one of these routes the app will give you an error and won't even start uploading then. -> The navigation feature is absolutely useless. (for now?) Edit: With Firmware 1.10 (1.20 should be coming soon?) you can at least the routes you created online or in the app, upload to the iGS 520 also works now, but on longer routes it's quite slow. Edit again: Firmware 1.31 is now available. It has a workout mode if you have a powermeter and also has a indoor cycling feature now. Haven't tried both of them. But, and that's much important: .gpx-Import seems finally to work! Sensors Magene Speed/Cadence Sensor https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001096008233.html Xoss Speed/Cadence/Heartrate Sensors https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001157509389.html I have the Xoss Heartrate Sensor, 2 Xoss Speed/Cadence Sensors and 3 Magene Speed/Cadence Sensors. They all work unremarkable. The Xoss sensors have the better mounting with The Magene on the other hand has the better battery cap, which needs no coin to open, and is easier to put back in. April 15, 2021, 07:10:35 PM |
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Re: Electronic devices
I'm using... IGPSport IGS50E https://www.igpsport.com/bike-computers I've used this for about 2 years now. I'm not exactly someone who uses the data to plot out some scheduling for rides or to monitor my exercise or something. So this is simple and more than sufficient for my use. And Magene H64 Heart Rate Monitor Only been using this since Sep or Oct. 2020. I only use it as a warning device not to hit a certain heart rate. If I see I'm approaching that figure, I simply shift down to an easier gear or take a rest. Both devices connects seamlessly with each other. How accurate are they? To be honest, I don't know. The IGPSport is consistently recording shorter distances (just a small fraction) compared to my Sony Experia cp running Relive. But viewing all those YouTube videos reviews or bikepackers about their cyclocomputers and cp apps, everyone is saying none of their apps/devices showed the same data. Suppose to be I can choose to connect Relive with a cyclocomputer but I just never tried to. No particular reasons, I just use them simultaneously but independently. My phone (with Relive app) is usually in my pocket. The iGPSport is visible on the handlebar. Here's a sample data of both device, same trip. These are the key differences. iGPSport Relive Distance 16.9km 17.3km Max Speed 29.4kph 38.2kph Ave. Speed 15.3kph 12.1kph AST 52m 283m Time moving trip duration Distance: iGPSport always came shorter than Relive. It doesn't bother me much. Speed: This really bugged me. The difference is quite significant. During rides, I follow iGPSport but when sharing my rides on FB it's the Relive video I use. Elevation: iGPSport is the right one, I calibrated it but I never did calibrated my cellphone for elevation. So I'm inclined to believe that my Relive Speed might be affected (although unfounded). I didn't bother with the time as they record it differently. The iGPSport records only moving time, while Relive records the entire trip (from pressing Start to pressing Finish button, I didn't set it to auto-pause). I do like to have both info. April 27, 2021, 02:17:23 AM |
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Re: ICAN triaero A9
Looks like my prior post has a problem, I can't see it anymore, so sorry if this is a repost. ----- So nice to find a bunch of fellow A9 riders! All my riding buddies are like Why? I built mine in Nov/Dec 2020. I have more than 3500 miles. 6? races. 1 crash at 39mph and only a minor scratch to the bike... my build is XL, Hb017. ultegra di2, quarq pwm w duraace chain rings, toseek carbon saddle, tokyo wheels epic 3.4, shimano ultegra pedals, DT Swiss through axles, since the pics I've removed headset spacers and cut stem more and put in specalized rib bottle cages. I've struggled with a creaky headset. And my saddle rail clamps allowed the saddle to creep on 2 different saddles but I think I've fixed it by painting a tad of epoxy with skid proof mixed in on top and bottom of the rails. I maybe should have gotten the L and I'm 6'2". it's a big bike. handles very well. super smooth and stiff. I started riding this bike at 220 lbs weight but I'm losing weight, down to 194 so far. Great bike. I was new to building fully internal integrated hydraulic. Routing cables in the handlebar was very difficult for a first timer. I also goofed and cut the steerer to short but Doris at Ican was like no problem and sent me a matching replacement for like $120! I will say on routing don't worry so much about dinging and kinking the ends of the hydraulics lines. Remember you will be cutting that part off anyways. May 05, 2021, 11:21:37 PM |
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Re: ZTTO BB92 BB86 threaded bottom brackets.
Trying out the ZTTO Thread Together Press Fit bottom bracket. Proactively replaced the bearings with some Japanese ones - we’ll see how long it lasts. Aluminum shell machining looks great, the bearing has an ID of 25mm (instead of 24mm) so a plastic shim / spacer is used (similar to what Shimano does with their press-fit BB's). Looks like it's made out of ABS plastic, probably gonna disintegrate over time. Would have been nice if they made it out of Delrin instead (as that would have been tough, and will pretty much last a lifetime). Bearings used are 6805-2RS (25mm bore, 37mm OD, 7mm width). The others i've tried (Wheels Mfg BB86-OUT, and the Origin 8 Revolvr ) uses a bearing with a 24mm ID so no shim required (crank spindle contacts the Id of the bearing). Bearing used are MR2437 ( 24mm bore, 37mm OD, 7mm width). That direct contact though, causes the spindle to wear (as you can see from my crank, the shiny part). Pretty easy to replace the bearings on these things as long as you got the proper tools. If one wanted to get rid of the plastic shim/spacer and make it direct contact, just replace the bearings on the ZTTO with MR2437 bearings, then buy the Wheels MFG Shim Spacer Pack (SHIM-SPACER-PK) May 14, 2021, 08:35:07 PM |
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