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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts Just to remind you that in the good old days of QR on the back that small 4-5mm part was in fact fully open (no material at all) and as long as your QR was tightened properly there was no problem.
September 29, 2020, 07:17:19 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts What's the maximum rear travel you can get out of this frame?
April 18, 2021, 10:52:24 PM
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Re: Ican S3 XC Frame Woooo!

My S3 arrived today, 8 business days after payment. I've had a good look over it, there is a small chip (<0.5mm) in the paint on the chainstay, and paint around the linkage bolts is a little rough in a couple of places, but it's no worse than the paint quality that my Specialized Enduro had when I first got it.

My components will be
Microshift Advent X 10 speed 11-48t drivetrain
Shimano SLX 170mm cranks
Magura Trail Sport brakes 180/160 Magura discs
Truvativ carbon bars
DT XM401 rear wheel Formula hub
Merida front wheel
Revelation 120mm Fork
Monarch 165x38 shock

I was going to use my Reverb dropper but I wrongly thought it was a 31.6, it's a 30.9 so I'll need to get a dropper now. Will probably get a One Up 150mm.

It was too late to take any decent photos when I got home, I'll endeavour to have some up on Friday.

April 20, 2021, 06:06:35 AM
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Re: Ican S3 XC Frame
I appreciate the explanation but I think the ratio is off because 165X38 shock is 100 mm on most bikes so taking the trunnion in consideration 140 trunnion should be about 105 ,  the 142.5 should be about 112 and the 145 should be about 120.  Maybe the stroke changes that slightly but unless you're compressing the shock to get in the frame then the numbers are still skewed.  Not to mention that if it doesn't have capability to full compress the shock and bottom out then what's the point?

I'm not quite sure if I fully understand what you mean... But there seem to be some errors in your thinking. Please correct me if I'm wrong:

You say that "165x38 shock is 100mm on most bikes", do you mean that a frame with a 165x38 shock usually provides 100mm of travel? Well it may be, that many bikes with these shock dimensions have 100mm of travel. But the amount of travel that the shock stroke translates to, depends on the leverage ratio of the frame. And that cannot be "off", it is what it is. Every bike is different. That just depends on how the linkage is designed. Like some bikes with a 210x55 shock have 140mm of travel, others have 160mm.

The Ican here for example has an average leverage ratio of 2,5. That means that for every 1mm of shock compression, the rear wheel moves upwards by 2,5mm - on average. It's probably a progressive frame, so the leverage ratio will reduce throughout the travel.

Now for this, the only important number is the stroke length of the shock, which is the second number, like "38". The first number - 165 - is the eye to eye, so the overall length of the shock. That should usually not be messed with, since any changes will drastically affect the geometry of the bike. Also, it doesn't matter if its trunnion or standard mount. The eye to eye is what counts. In this bike, you should only run 165mm, trunnion or standard.

What the guys are talking about, is keeping the eye to eye length the same, but changing the stroke length of the shock. So when the standard shock would be fully compressed, a longer stroke shock still has some more to go, resulting in more travel. The limit of this is reached when the seat stays hit the seat tube. What Ben did, is go to this point of maximum compression and measure the remaining eye to eye distance, which is 115mm. A 165mm shock would need to be compressed by 50 mm to get to this point. But you need some safety room to avoid breaking the frame at the first bottom out, also because the bottom out bumpers of the shock still give way a little when it's compressed hard. That's why Ben suggested a 45mm stroke shock may work.

The rest is math. Let's say the leverage ratio is 2,5 at the end of the stroke (it's probably a little lower), then an additional 2,5 mm of shock stroke will give you 6,25mm more travel. Take that twice and you have your 112mm with a 45mm stroke instead of the standard 100mm with a 40mm stroke.

Sorry, a lot to read, I know... I hope I didn't misunderstand you, just thought this might help. Took me a while to get behind this linkage stuff too.

April 23, 2021, 06:10:02 PM
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Re: Stumpjumper clone Its been a while since I posted to this thread and since I had some people PM me regarding how I handled the cable exit port, I wanted to share my 2 cents:

-Specialized uses a a rubber sleeve which serves as the perfect transition as it encloses the cables from the downtube to the chainstays as well as keeping any dirt and water from entering the frame, I tried to source the part but was unable to find it anywhere.
-In the end I figured out to use something to plug the hole, so I looked for some firewall oval rubber grommets over Amazon, fit them to the frame and made 2 holes for the cables to pass.

So far it has worked quite well, no debris nor water inside frame and does not look bat at all.

Hopefully someone will find this useful  :)

April 29, 2021, 09:57:21 PM
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Re: Stumpjumper clone Or if you want the actual part...you need to order it from a Specialized Dealer...they are not available on line....cost me $5

Rubber Boot for BB Access Port (S206500002)


May 01, 2021, 01:09:02 PM
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Re: Stumpjumper clone Interested  to know what Aussie shop you got the Rev from? I'm in Sydney and prices are ridiculous and postage is even worse so it must have been a good price to have it compete with O/S pricing.
May 31, 2021, 04:11:05 PM
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Re: Stumpjumper clone Good luck with the build. Don't get too caught up on not having a stand.  Internal cables first, then seat post and saddle, forks stem and bars. Flip the bike and build the rest of it upside down.
June 21, 2021, 12:58:15 AM
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Re: Stumpjumper clone Charts, Today my Frame came.

June 22, 2021, 04:29:17 AM
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Re: Stumpjumper clone So here is my finished product
July 16, 2021, 09:02:02 AM
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