Haha, Stefan can post a build pic in nearly every thread. Hope you ordered an AM831 so we can see that build.

• assembling the lower pin of the rear shock was challenging, as I could not find any position of the rear triangle that gave me enough clearance to remove the bolt. I ended up unscrewing the top hinge form the frame (removing the 2 bolts just under the saddle). Not sure if that was the best choice because repositioning the hinge wasn't easy, but it worked
• my mounting hardware for the shock was M8x30 and M8x22.199. The x30 (top) fit perfectly, the x22.199 was loose: i measured 22.86mm for the opening. Rather than ordering a new one, I 3d printed 2 spacers, which seem to work well
• My shock is a Fox dpx2. It fits pretty well, but the access to the air valve is tight, I can barely connect my pump to the valve.
• I used a Fox36 fork, that barely clears the frame, after using the 0.5 degree angle spacer from Reverse, which is about 10mm tall. BTW, jham asked about installing the angle spacer: it is an "interference fit", just like a standard crown race. I used a piece of PVC pipe with id of about 1.5" to push it down, with the help of a rubber mallet

• fork: Fox36 w/ GRIP2 damper. The damper adjustments barely clear the frame even after adding the angle spacer
• rear shock: Fox dpx2, see my comments above for the mounting hardware
• drivetrain: SRAM Eagle GX, with SRAM DUB 89/92 pressfit bottom bracket
• wheelset: Lightcarbon 350MB-AD938-Race, shared with my other frame
• breakset: Shimano M8200, which I got new at a good price form a seller on Pinkbike. The rotors are generic from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082NVF3TD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
• dropper post: and old Tranzx 31.6x140. I pushed it all the way down the downtube.. and it still might be too high, I need to double check it, but I have not measured the insertion depth
• saddle: a SDG Radar.. I have no idea of how good or comfortable it is, I got it at a discount because my other SGB Bel Air failed, but I have to say that I like a lot my WTB Volt on the other bike
• stem and Carbon Handlebar: inexpensive from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0916YJ81R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JPF4T71/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
• headset and Sitclamp: I used the one that came with the frame. The frame also came with 4 cable hole plugs, for the larger holes by the bottom of the downtube. They are rubber, not easy to install. Not sure if they will hold
• missing: chainstay (and maybe downtube) protection. I have something that might work, but I haven't tried to install it yet.

Seat post: elita one aliexpress, I don`t like/use droppers: for me they are just more weight and more problems, I change my seat height stopping and using a QR

Handlebar: here I ask for suggestion, I am looking for a reliable carbon one without breaking the bank: I selected og-evkin, but they don`t say if it is ok for enduro use; another option is ican rise (it says enduro capable) but possibly I would avoid the 35 mm diameter bars

Thank you for the idea! Oneup claims that their 35 mm bar has an oval shape making it confortable like an old 31 mm. Probably it worths the investment; a failure in the handlebar could be an hospital trip.
There are three "levels" of handlebars:
- generic chinese aliexpress, the cheapest but no warranty at all
- chinese reputable brands (og-evkin,ican, lightcarbon); middle price and mostly good reviews
- brand names: most expensive, still made in china but probably with a different quality control that makes a world of difference.
Said that if you search over the web you will find photos of failures of any kind of handlebars (even alluminium ones). For sure they suffer fatigue, after many small hits they get weaker; carbon ones maybe even aging from UV etc.

Probably better to go with 30-35 mm rise and limit the stem spacers, this is my idea what do you think?