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Re: Velobuild GF-002
The routing on these bar/stems is pain in the arse. I spent so much time on it. In the end two things helped, lot of cursing and inserting shifter cables first and then brake cables. But that is still a LOT of work and frustration may ensue. It was much later that I came across this simple trick and used on Fuji roadie to convert to semi icr - February 03, 2023, 12:50:13 PM |
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Re: Lightcarbon LCG071-D Build
Alright so I'm going to update everyone on my build so far: As I noted in my last comment, shipping was not quick. Initially I had been quoted 15 days to shipping. The next 2 times I had asked for updates, Wendy said the frame would ship "by the end of next week", which was a lie on both occasions. Lesson learned, if you care about the lead time, ask for a quoted lead time BEFORE you pay. I had also ordered the frame with no rivets, but was told I would have to wait ANOTHER week for that one, but I could choose to take the riveted frame immediately, so I went for that. Not ideal but I'll live Options chosen: 55cm frame, 100mm integrated stem, SP03 seatpost, black paint/no custom paint Weights: - frame: 1063g - fork: 499g - seatpost: 192g - stem: 153g Notes: Frame: tubes look nice, feels very light, but the quality of the bottom bracket is dogshit. I don't know how this frame passed Hambini's BB-weenie test, because my frame's BB is terrible. HUGE deposit of resin on one of the cups that I had to file down. There's a big gouge/void in the other cup. Internal diameter was something like 40.3-40.8mm in diameter, when it should be a bit closer to 41. I've had to file down the void, and hit the cups with some sandpaper to clean up the surface. I'm using a token ninja thread-together BB, evidently the cups are not aligned because the crank has been binding like crazy to install, and does not spin freely. I'm hoping that most of it is just binding between the bottom bracket bearings and the crank spindle, but I might have to resort to a BBinfinite if the situation does not improve with some use. Fork: Chunky and solid. I mean, it weighs half as much as the frame. Thru-axle threads were crusty and bind-ey. As on many budget forks, inside of the steerer is fiberglass. Seatpost: The tube is very thick and chunky. Easily could be 50g lighter. Painted with opaque gloss black paint. Internal profile is slightly oval. I like the seat binding clamps. This post definitely won't fail on you! Definitely a part I look to upgrade soon. Stem: Awful awful awful. Stem face bolts and threads are not aligned well so it binds when screwing. Internal diameter of handlebar clamp is slightly smaller than spec so it slightly crushes the handlebar (I may have damaged my handlebar, oh well). Heavy. Why did this need to be carbon? Hardware & assembly: Stem spacers are split, good. Seatpost clamp face is machined to literally appear like a device for filing/grinding things. Pretty okay for post-security, but this will LITERALLY shred the paint/material off of your seatpost where/near you clamp it. Headset bearings are okay, fitment is spot-on, no notes there, good-job lightcarbon. Everything else is bog-standard solid & cheap parts. Steerer tube compression bung and topcap compressor are heavy steel parts. For assembly, I built up with SRAM Force AXS etap, so very easy to just route the brake hoses, especially since I didn't have an integrated bar. No surprises there, I used a magnetic routing toolkit to help me out. So, overall verdict? I guess for $660, it's fine. I kind of have regrets about getting this bike instead of a used bike, but that's on me. I've spent so much on this bike it's not really competitive with used bike prices anymore, which is really what motivated my road bike build in the first place. As for the quality--I have questions. This frame has ended up in the workshops of several youtubers lately, who have sung its praises--and my experience definitely does not line up. Is this "Wendy's revenge" for me insistently bugging them about getting my frame shipped? Or is some funny business afoot--did lightcarbon decide to let QC slip with the new popularity of this frame? Who knows. Anways, wish me luck as I finish this build out and attempt a season of cyclocross on it. September 26, 2023, 03:40:25 PM |
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Re: Eddie's Airwolf YFR066 Build Thread
Sorry to sneak into this thread as a +1. I've ordered a YFR066 frameset and integrated bars and have just been told it's been collected by DPD in China. The frameset was ordered on 18th December BTW and communication with Airwolf has been fine. It's going to be a slightly unusual build as I'm speccing the bike for very hilly sportive events (specifically the Fred Whitton Challenge here in the UK). Gearing will be 50/34 11-40, giving a 23" lowest gear. So far I've built the wheels, using Ryet hubs and 38mm rims off Aliexpress (Carbon Beam Store) with Sapim Race spokes - they come in at 1402g for the pair. If there is interest in yet another YFR066 build, I'll keep the forum posted on how things go. January 21, 2024, 11:02:19 AM |
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Re: The definitive thread for 1-1/2 Internal Routing headsets... (or) wtf tho?
I actually have found myself with a small business making and designing headset covers to be adapters for these integrated routing. Below is a summary of what I know. It’s certainly not definitive and applies more to mainstream brands than chinese brands, but I hope it’s helpful. I also hope, I dont make too many errors here as I try and type out what i know. The first thing to know is that there isnt a single bearing size. The bearings are sized by ID (inner diameter), OD (outer diameter), two chamfers which are denoted InnerXOuter, and by H (height). The bearing size is going to be frame specific, so you should always check to make sure you are getting the right one. For example there OD ranges from 49.5-52mm, ID from 39.5-42mm, ACB is usually [36 or 45] X 45. Different brands also have different designs for their headset compression rings and systems. Here is a rundown of the most common ones in no specific order. There is no compatibility across these systems unless you are using a system designed to provide it. FSA ACR (also used by Bianchi, Merida, Orbea, and Winspace)—uses a 40mm ID, 52mm OD, 7mm H, 36x45 bearing. How far in the frameset the top of the bearing sits depends on the brand as does the resulting design of the compression ring, but generally should sit 4mm deep in the frame. However, 2.5mm depths are also common as are 1mm depths. Compression ring is alloy and ~7mm thick. This is the most commonly used system by a wide margin and there are compatible parts made by other manufacturers. Deda DCR (used by Time, Van Rysel, Botechia, prior gen Colnago Bikes and MANY smaller brands like Standert)—uses a 52mm OD, 40mm H, 8mm H, 45x45 bearing. Compression ring is a 15-20mm deep high pressure injection molded Nylon item. Depths again can vary for specific models of bike, but most are ~4mm deep. However, Deda does make a variety of C Rings of varying heights and to fit both 45x45 and 36x45 bearings in an attempt to make their system more universal. Deda does make shims for these, but they can be hard to find. IMO, this is the system easiest to retrofit to a frame. Token/Enve (also used by no 22 and Ventum)— uses a 52mm OD, 40mm H, 8mm H, 45x45 bearing. Compression ring is composite ~7-8mm thick. These come with a set of shims and can be a good fit if you can find them. Acros (used by Canyon, Focus and Scott)—these solutions vary a lot but the most common uses a 42mm ID, 52mm 6.5mm H, 45x45 bearing. Compression ring design varies from nylon with metal inserts to just nylon and are <10mm thick. I would use this only with an Acros bearing because of the dimensions. Trek— 40mm ID, 51mm OD, 6.5m H, 36x45. Compression rings and headset spacers are nearly model specific at this point, however the Domane Gen 4 alloy compression ring and spacers are considered a service part for most of the models, so their use is Trek OK with. Unless you have a burning desire to fit a trek cockpit to your bike. Its probably best to avoid for other bikes. Specialized— 40.5mm ID, 49.5 ID, 6.5mm H 45x45 bearing, SL7/Allez sprint use an alloy compression ring, post recall this is a two part item. SL8 uses a composite ring. Both versions then use the same spacer. Their fitment varies by model again. This is again an avoid using part unless you have a perfect match in terms of bearings. The compression ring is not the right fit for non Specialized bikes and the current SL7 version is a recall fix for their specific bikes. Cervelo— 34.1 ID, 46.9 OD, 7mm H, 45x45 bearing— These use a proprietary everything including steerer shape. Of these only the FSA, Deda, and Enve are designed for aftermarket use with the first being the most common, and a lot of space between the use of the Deda system and the Token. There is no guarantee that these will fit on your bike without measuring width a depth gauge. For safety you absolutely should match both the chamfer and height. Because of the way the Deda and Token systems work you can use shims inside the headset. With Deda, you can just cut delrin DUB crank spacers into a C shape and use those as well. I personally, would be wary of using a 3d printed or generic plastic compression ring, especially if they struggle to hold preload as the injection molded engineered nylons typically used for these parts are quite a bit stronger than can be produced with 3d printing. This is a pretty important part of the bike to get right and a loose headset is one fastest ways to kill a carbon frame. Hope this is helpful to someone and thanks for reading this novel of a post. EDIT: I should have added that a good number of the chinese integrated bars can either fit directly to an FSA split spacer or come with a transition spacer for the FSA system, so thats a good system to use from a compatibility with bars standpoint. The Deda system is more frame compatible. July 28, 2024, 11:09:34 AM |
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Re: Tideace NEW Gravel Frame: GR201
Loaded up.
September 27, 2024, 03:28:40 PM |
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ICAN FL1
i've bought a ICAN FL1, so i wanna start a new post and share my new build will be size 54 and hope to receive it before christmas Crystal send me some pics today, i've choose a paintless matte finish. the calipers mounts seems to be faced and the inside of the frame looks clean this frame will be assembled with:
December 04, 2024, 01:51:10 AM |
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Re: ICAN FL1
Ok, I see your cat detected the problem on the chain 
January 11, 2025, 10:59:04 AM |
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Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
UPDATE: They will send me a new frame, Kudos to the customer service, they are quick to respond and very kind. I only have to wait another month before I can continue building but that's okay May 09, 2025, 05:17:14 AM |
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Re: Can we migrate this forum to a modern forum? I'm tired of the broken pages.
Sitar_Ned is the forum's administrator. You can reach out to them via PM or email. Honestly, not much capacity at all. It's just me and I am in no way a web developer or webmaster. Just a simpleton Arkansas mountain biker that somehow figured out how to get this forum up 10 years ago. I know the broken pages are annoying... and I am sorry about that... I do try to fix them immediately when they pop up so please do let me know.. I really appreciate it. I do have plans to upgrade to the latest SMF version to fix little issues like that but I'm sorry to disappoint anyone but there are no plans to "modernize" the forum in any way. No desire to have some modern mobile-friendly, super slick, dark mode interface. Chinertown will remain old-school looking with zero ads and zero optimizations for Google search. My main goal going forward is to keep AI out of the forum as much as possible. That's just my jam but I do understand if it isn't for everyone. That said, I am certainly open and interested to hear everyone's input/advice/ideas and really appreciate it. June 06, 2025, 06:52:42 AM |
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Re: ICAN FL1
June 10, 2025, 02:58:48 AM |
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