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The Un-Official Guide To Fixing Headset Play - Please Add Your Advice Here
Hey Everyone, I wanted to create a guide to help troubleshoot headset play regardless of bike brand. By no means am I an expert, and I hope others can add to this thread. Please understand this guide/thread isn't intended for airing our bike brand grievances or calling out user errors. Ultimately we all just want our bikes to work as intended. Common Reasons For Headset Play 1. Steerer/Fork isn't cut low enough, or an extra spacer is required above the stem to properly compress the top cap. When initially cutting the steer tube, an extra 2-4mm below the cut line needs to be accounted for in order for the top cap to recess properly. 2. The headset bearing (upper or lower) doesn't sit inside the head tube cup snug enough (laterally, front to back). Velobuild, for example, provides 52mm diameter headset bearings. Other headsets sold online or for other bike brands may only be 51.8mm diameter. That 0.2mm is the difference between a snug fit or loose headset. If your bearings are loose this will always cause play. You can add a couple layers of tape inside the bearing cup to prevent the bearing from moving around. Or just buy a new 52mm headset. 3. The top headset bearing is recessed too far into the head tube cup, causing the headset cover to rub on the frame, preventing the complete headset stack to properly compress. If this is the case you will need a thicker headset bearing (7mm, 7.5mm or 8mm thick) or a thicker c-ring so that it sits flush with the top of the headset opening on the frame, thus preventing the headset cover from rubbing the frame. EDIT: Another resolution is adding some micro spacers between the c-ring and top cap. 4. The upper and lower headset bearings are installed in reverse. Some bikes (like Yoeleo's recent G21 gravel bike) provide a set of headset bearings, with one of the two bearings being slightly thicker than the other. The thicker of the two bearings needs to be installed on top of the head tube, and the thinner bearing on the bottom. If these two bearings are installed in reverse order then...see Common Issue #3 It is critical to do a dry run of installing the crown race, headset bearings, c-ring, headset cap, stem/cockpit, and any additional spacers before actually proceeding to building up the bike. Also be sure to compare and inspect the two headset bearings to confirm they are in fact the same size and thickness. August 02, 2022, 02:23:09 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Hello and good morning! Also new to the forum, there is some great info around this thread, i haven't been able to collect and read every page yet, but you stumble upon some good stuff. I think once i got confirmation, i'll compile it down to a google sheet for everyone to consume. In order to prepare the build i collected the torque specs for all the bolts from Chris:
I would also like to get the specs from the axle, but he only mentioned that they will be on the axle itself. has anyone found a link for this on the Robert Through Axle project or elsewhere? I will probably buy another one. He also said that the SL7 headset compression ring + Di2 seatpost battery holder should work. For the Bearings i got these specs so far, will post an update once i got it all confirmed:
August 04, 2022, 02:44:55 AM |
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VB-177 vs VB-168: My Guide To Choosing A Frame
Step One: Frequently Asked Questions 1 - Is the 177 lighter than the 168? YES. 2 - Is the 168 more aero than the 177? YES. 3 - Does the 177 have more flex than the 168? Probably, since it’s lighter… 4 - Is the 168 more stiff than the 177? Probably, since it’s heavier… 5 - Does this mean the 177 is a “flexy” frame overall? NO. 6 - Is the 168 one the stiffest frames you’ve tested? NO. 7 - Are both frames stable at high speeds? Road stability is not exclusive to the frame. Bottom Line: The differences between the two frame are marginal at best. Especially for a $500 frame. There are more important aspects to your overall bike build to consider. 168 does in fact support 32c tires. The 177 (at least mine) does not. Maybe 30c max. This alone might be a deal breaker for the 177. The 177 uses is a standard seatpost which will be wildly easier to find on the open market for replacements. Step Two: Geometry VB 177 Geometry (Size 56/L) Stack: 556 Reach: 395 VB 168 Geometry (Size 56/L) Stack: 556 Reach: 398 VB 177 Geometry (Size 54/M) Stack: 536 Reach: 392 VB 168 Geometry (Size 54/M) Stack: 535 Reach: 388 Bottom Line: You should probably seek a professional bike fit if you’re uncertain. Geometry is similar for both frames, plus/minus a couple of millimeters in reach. I personally am not a fan of zero-degree setback seatposts. Neither frames are intended to fit all body types. I’m also not a fan of integrated handlebars either, since they limit adjustability later. Step Three: Aerodynamics Your wheel choice is one of the most critical areas where aerodynamics can be either saved or loss. The 177 paired with deep sectioned aero wheels will be faster on the flats than the 168 with shallow wheels. And the aerodynamic design of the 168 will inherently trump the lightweight of the 177 on the flats when paired with identical wheels. Bottom Line: DO NOT SKIMP on your wheelset. Step Four: Total System Weight There is not enough emphasis put on total system weight (bike + rider + gear). Nothing wrong with having weight weenie tendencies, but 50-200 gram weight savings isn’t going to make the difference for anything below a World Pro Tour Race. See example below: Bike: 7900g Rider: 74000g 2 Water Bottles: 1400g Helmet/Gear/Ect: 1000g Total System Weight: 84300 grams (84.3kg) Bottom Line: Striving to save even 100-200 grams (regardless of cost) is literally only like 0.25 percent of the total weight. 0.25 PERCENT. One-fourth of one percent. Also when it comes to wheels and frames...you WILL eventually be penalized on stiffness once the weight dips to a certain threshold. Step Five: Road Stability Your stem length and wheel choice play a pivotal role in stability at higher speeds. These aspects should be considered before asking the question of stability in general. Yes both frames are stable...but I run a 130mm stem paired with aero wheels at a depth (60-65mm) that is suitable for my weight (74kg). Final thoughts - For the pursuit of speed (and even climbing) your wheel choice, position on the bike, tire/innertube/tubeless choice, and drivetrain efficiency all matter significantly more than simply comparing weight. The 177 is probably the better choice if bike fit is a concern, you absolutely need a climbing bike, and you don’t need clearance for wider tires. Some people may also prefer the "look" of the 177 which is totally understandable. For everyone else…168 is mostly likely the more reasonable choice. And this actually makes sense, since the Tarmac SL7 is supposed to be the one bike to rule them all. Okay this guide took way longer than I anticipated. Time to suit up my party clothes, get some drinks in me, and hit the clubs. Have a great weekend. August 26, 2022, 07:43:40 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Here is my final build now. 8.1 kg including everything, bike computer, bottle cages (with hidden multitool), pedals, mount etc. I think it turned out great. August 29, 2022, 05:16:31 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
at 50 you are young, I would always take the small frame. The big one only if your torso is very long I can with 180 cm 58 riders but have 56 and am very satisfied with 87 cm step I want to get this frame but I am not certain which size would best fit me (49cm or 52cm). I'm 5'4.5 with a 29" inseam, 50 years old. I am currently riding a Trek Emonda 2015 52cm with a 80cm stem. I am leaning to towards the 49cm frame since the offset in the seatpost would add to the effective top tube length and reach. My concerns about the 49cm frame is the low stack. I'm not sure if my 50 year old back can handle such a low stack. October 01, 2022, 02:31:16 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Completed my build the other day. Haven't taken it out on a real ride but a quick shakedown ride and the bike feels great so far. Didn't have any issues with the install although trying to run 4 cables through the integrated cockpit was a massive pain. Parts list: Frame: VB-R-168 Size 52 Groupset: Mechanical 105 Brakes: Juin Tech F1 Wheels: Roval Terra CL Tires: GP5000 32c October 12, 2022, 10:56:13 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
I placed my order for my 168 on 10/13/22 with custom paint of blue/purple chameleon blue. To my surprise, I just received the frame 10/31/22. On the front fork, I noticed the hole for the front brake line is on the right hand side of the steerer tube. I expected the hole to be in the middle of the steerer tube. Will this be a problem running the brake line from the right side of the steerer tube to the left fork for the disc brake? Hole placement looks absolutely fine! It is done so for smoother movement between hose/fork/frame to reduce twisting. Remember to tape the hose, every S-works SL7 I have seen built, the mechanics tape the hose just above the steerer hole to keep the hose in place. Any slack should be inside the frame. November 02, 2022, 02:29:02 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
any picture of that taping? You can see it here https://youtu.be/kV2tiHzWe6A?t=177 November 02, 2022, 04:23:05 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
Completed Bike pix Bike with decals installed Matt from MH Custom Printing in Oceanside/San Diego, who made the decals for me & put them on Huge thanks to everyone on here who replied with helpful suggestion & Sebastian who has been in touch via email & helped me resolve my front derailleur issues January 11, 2023, 01:27:36 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Is there any news for the 0 offset seatpost? So it looks like velobuild wants 50 pre-orders this time to realize this forum request. Is anyone willing to drive this? January 13, 2023, 04:03:40 PM |
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