• Straight pull hubs & spokes:
  I thought the hubs were two cross, while they were 3 cross.
  The ERD was 593mm instead of the 590 announced, that would have made a difference too.
  So I had to return and reorder a set of spokes.
  They were the easiest wheels I ever built.
  And the lightest at 1218g(Ultralight 29er rims from Peter, CX-Ray spokes, SAPIM alloy nipples, and Novatec hubs D411CB/D412CB.
  The rear hub freewheel is dead silent ! And without a front derailleur, this is a very silent bike. Will need a bell !
   
• Tires:
  One of the most complex choice to me was about the tires for a gravel.
  There doesn't seem to be a best solution.
  Either you want to ride more on hard or soft terrain, and need appropriate tires.
  So in the end I took them light and mixed. The Maxxis Rambler 40mm.
  They were surprisingly easy to setup tubeless on the internal 19.6mm rims.
  Mount. Inflate with the compressor. Pop/Pop. Done.
   
• The axles:
  I ordered a pair of Hardlite axles on ebay.As another Carbonda owner did( although poorly detailed ).
  They looked good but in fact were not compatible.
  The front 15x100 was an MTB one. Road ones are shorter, 125mm long axle.
  So I took a ROCK SHOX Maxle Stealth 15x100 with 1.5mm pitch.
  The rear drive dropout is not threaded, but need a nut, like the DT Swiss E-thru axle.
  I have a temp solution for now, but will find a M12x1.5mm nut somewhere to put on the Hardlite rear.
   
• SRAM Red Etap:
  Using etap without front derailleur, is not a problem.
  11x36 cassette(CX1 Cassette PG-1170) with the wifli version of the rear derailleur is not an issue either. The capacity of the derailleur is 28T.
  The conversion of my two ring crank(with hidden bolt) to a single CX1 chainring went without issue.
  The Titanium bolts are from Ali. And used the hidden screw that came with the ring. The 2mm washers were useless.
  I rotate with 3 chains,  the SRAM PC-1170
   
• Brakes:
  I didn't have the bleeding edge tool to bleed the brakes(damn SRAM to add yet another nozzle).
  So, I was extra careful when cutting the brake hose and route them through the frame.
  And not add air to the system.
  Setting the lever to have the nut vertical and adding some DOT liquid in it before remounting everything.
  It worked.
  The internal routing was very easy. A white tube was there in the frame to guide the rear hose. And there are holes in the fork for the front.
  Unfortunately I cut the front hose a tad to short( my first road bike bar... ), it is quite ok but sad.
  I was scared by taping the bar too, but it went well. I hesitated a long time between black and the yellow, but returned the black.
  And I didn't receive the brake disc from Ali yet, so I've temporarily put some used ones I had.
   
• Design blues:
  Just for the aesthetics. When I see now all these useless black holes and screw, I could have ordered the frame without them. I saw later it was possible.
  Carbonda provide a set a various plugs/end caps but they didn't think as minimalistic as this build. No plug at the rear derailleur exit cable. No second rubber plug for the right shifter hose entry.
  Not sure I will ever use mudguards. And I replaced all screws with vinyl ones for now.

So the frame is actually split in half between two different colors

Top half of the frame: 3 coats of chameleon green/purple paint.
Bottom half: 3 coats of clear 3D effect glitter paint.
Entire frame: 3 coats of SprayMax 2K clearcoat.

None of colors used nor the clearcoat required even a full can of paint, respectively. Granted, I purposely wanted the raw carbon finish to bleed through the color. For perspective, when I painted my VB-168 in white paint, it required full two cans of paint. Just barely enough paint in fact.

No sanding required at all. Automotive vehicles don't get sanded went painted at the factory, so I haven't seen the value in it. Proper technique and good prep work will alleviate the need to sand anyway. Also it's winter time here so it's very cold outside. I would keep the paint cans sitting in a bucket of hot water between coats, to keep the paint warm. This has been biggest gamechanger to prevent both orange peel and paint drip.

Coat #1 - Light spray so the paint sticks.
Coat #2 - Moderate spray for coverage.
Coat #3 - Slow, full, and deliberate paint spray in close proximety to the frame. This is the coat which you start seeing the gloss build up. Both for the paint and the clearcoat.

Have you started using the bike yet? I’m eyeing this one up for a second bike / commuter , so interested in real world reviews. I was looking at both is and GF-003 , but leaning towards this , as I wont be doing any gravel as such, just a few rough roads and cycle tracks

Not yet... I am hoping to get the paint finished late next week and built up by mid-may, barring any build hiccups.  The GF-003 looks like a mountain bike, so it may be overkill for that application, IMO.  I was cross-shopping the Airwolf YFR-066 / Rinasclta Granite, which, if I liked the aesthetics of it, I would have chosen that for the same use (not to imply it's ugly, just a subjective opinion).  I am hoping this CX-002 can survive light trail use and bunny-hops in CX, so we'll see this summer.

patliean1 has a few video's on YT with his ride impressions of the CX-002, posted on the first page here.  It'd be interesting to see a comparison video

Any reputation information about Spyce?
Thanks