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Re: Can anyone help identify this frame please? Might be this?
Workswell WCB R358



https://www.workswellbikes.com/gravel/wcb-r-358.html

February 02, 2023, 09:20:06 AM
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Carbonda CFR-696, DIY Paintjob Disclaimer: I am a Bike Mechanic by trade. My one man shop is the Elves build and mounting central for the region the agent oversees, in this case Scandinavia.
So was looking for a Gravel bike for myself, and since Elves dont make any, I chose a Carbonda CFR-696 instead.  I´ve built a couple of Triaero/Ican X-Gravel for some customers, but I´m not a fan of the thru-axles they provide, soft and 5mm hex instead of 6mm. I do like the cable stop/thru-hole in the steerer tube, BSA box and 27.2mm seat post. Build quality is as usually on par, if not better, than some name brands.
So I ordered a frameset in size 54cm in standard finish, Matt Black with the intention to paint it myself, Etoe, Martin on Youtube made a tutorial on how to paint Marble finish in Hypershift I chose a subtle shift, Gold-Red-Purple. After a 3 stage cut and buff it looks very nice.   
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gjV9bixkU99t6LPHA
Build List:
Drive Six wheels
Shimano XT 6 hole 160mm discs
Deore 10 speed 42-11 cassette
Panaracer Gravelking SK 38mm
"NX" Chinese crankset 36T Chainring
Nutt Mechanical brakes
Jagwire Pro housing
XLC Stem and bar
PRO bartape
BBB Seat post and Bontrager Montrose saddle
Sram Apex 10 speed shifters
GX long cage rear Mech.







July 14, 2023, 10:18:46 AM
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Re: Gravel frame with UDH hanger - T-Type compatibility. The first of 3 CFR505 is built, in SRAM mullet mode.
With a GX T-Type derailleur.
Force shifters and crankset + spindle Quarq power meter
Lightbicycle wheels.
Toseek handlebar. Uno stem. Elita one saddle.

January 15, 2024, 04:48:38 AM
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Re: Carbonda 505SL Integrated Stem Here's a new build with a mulet with the new SRAM Red shfiters/brakes - GX Transmission derailleur - X0 Transmission cassette and chain
And the Lexon gravel bar https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004788375665.html which is very nice and stiff

To have a better chainline (49mm instead of the road limited to 47.5mm) I did put a non boost MTB crankset.
So there was no more rubbing of the chain.

The setup app is limited to 38T, so with this 44T I did add 6 links(inner+outer) to the 118 advised.
But had to remove one after testing.

From two other builds, for better shifting, the setup key had to be set on B even if the app was saying A.
But not on this one. So the setup app is not really accurate for mullet builds.

Edit: I forgot the wheels, these are the WR40 from lightbicycle with their carbon aero spokes + ceramic hub v2.0

June 13, 2024, 11:58:25 PM
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Re: Carbonda 505SL Integrated Stem Some reflections having put some miles in on the bike. In case helpful for those maybe thinking about one.

All told I’m very happy with it and would recommend. I guess the way that gravel bikes are going this is going to be seen more as an all-Road bike than a gravel bike, principally because you’re limited to 42-45mm tyres (I’ve got 44mm Mezcals on no prob, but would be wary about going bigger in clingy-mud). And lack of mounts mean it’s not designed for bike packing etc. But that suits what I want it for and I’ve been happily riding it fast on the road with 33mm slicks and off-road on 44mms. I haven’t found its ability to do both a compromise on either which I thought I might. If I’m on stuff where 44mm isn’t enough I’d rather take my mtb anyway.

I had seatpost slipping issues - the seat tube  is +0.15mm over and 2 Carbonda seatposts supplied are both under 27.2 to about the same degree. No amount of carbon paste was solving the issue. The seat collar supplied is 13mm high - I wondered if a taller collar (18mm?) would solve the problem but most collar listings don’t specify height dimensions and the few that do all seem to be max 15mm. In the end I solved the problem with some adhesive  0.2mm vinyl sheeting designed for covering books. A single layer of that on the seat post has worked without issues.

On chainrings - I’m running the stated max 42T ring with a 6mm offset (as recommended) on a SRAM DUB road crank (with 10x44 XPLR cassette). I don’t think you could go more than 42T with this set up without putting on a ring without an offset (or maybe 3mm instead of 6) - there isn’t much room to play with, see pictures. I’ll defer to others’ experience of increasing the chainline on shifting performance and wear etc. As it happens I don’t spin out with 42x10 until over 40mph which is fine by me for the type of riding I’m doing on this.

Finally - in going 1x fully wireless without a chain guide I had to buy some rubber hole plugs/bungs to cover the unused holes. Cheap on eBay.

June 22, 2024, 08:23:25 AM
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Re: Spcycle New Mold G056 Carbon Gravel Frame
I hope someone can help me with this frame build. I recently purchased the version sold by "Surprise store" on AliExpress. My issue is installing the headset where there is a gap between the lower bearing and the fork and also a bigger gap between the frame and the headcover for the top bearing - this is using the supplied headset. With the top bearing in particular, this sits flush with the frame and when you put the the compression ring on, it sits too high the the headset cover leaving quite a big gap. Any advice is appreciated.

For the upper bearing, I would definitely not use that compression ring, not just because it sits too high but because that C-shape design can easily damage a steerer tube (refer to Luescher Teknik: https://youtu.be/sKD2JSW9ul4?t=150). I'd recommend a Token A-Box or S-Box headset, which isn't too expensive and comes with a much better compression ring. If you can buy just that ring, it would certainly be cheaper than a full headset, but in 5 minutes of googling, I can't find a well-designed compression ring sold independently of a headset. There may be one out there if you look further than my casual searching.

For the lower bearing, are you sure the extra crown race is needed? Most of the time the bearing sits directly on a crown race molded directly into the fork; if that's not the case here then I would explore bearing/crown race combos from Cane Creek, they're the only reasonably priced source for good bearings + crown races that I found with another couple minutes of searching.

https://canecreek.com/product/headset-bearings/
https://canecreek.com/product/crown-races/
https://canecreek.com/product/headset-parts-accessories/

July 08, 2024, 12:04:29 AM
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Re: LightCarbon LCG072-D (new Model 2024) I wrote to LC because I liked the look of the frame. Here's the response:

Quote
Thanks for your inquiry about LCG072-D, the newest gravel frame set,
check attachment. max tire is 700C*42C,
now the frame is just on testing, size M loading time is about two months,
Frame set including frame+ seat post + fork +stem or handlebar + seat clamp+ head set+ front & rear thru-axle, and two hangers for rear derailleur.
Color: UD matt, (painting customized is acceptable with extra cost.)
Price is about USD$780/set including shipping cost and all duties to Danmark, we need confirm your post code frist,.
If pack two frames in one carton, price can be cheaper.

They included a geo chart, attached below

July 08, 2024, 03:41:03 AM
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Re: BXT Gravel 135 I got my frameset today.
Size 52 in pink. I received it exactly one month after placing the order. It took them around ten days to ship it to Germany.
I paid 380EUR for this in the summer sale and another 50EUR for shipping including customs clearance. That's a very fair price for what you get IMO.
This is nothing special, just a well made frame with all the neat little integrated mounts you could want. I really like it.
It's surprisingly well finished inside. There are no wrinkles, no obvious inconsistencies in carbon wall thickness. The carbon fork steerer is super clean and perfectly round. The BB shell has been faced and there's no paint overspray. The brake mounts have been faced as well but I might have to remove some more paint to get it just right. Headset seems solid.
The weight is nothing to write home about but I didn't expect it to be: 500g bang on for the painted fork (uncut). Roughly 1150g for the frame including all the bolts and the seatpost clamp. That's heavy but alright. I just wanted a sturdy gravel frame.
The worst about it is the paintjob. It's alright, but nothing special.
But all in all this is A LOT for less than 400 quid (shipping not included).

I'm in the process of building it already. Unfortunately, my old wheelset has a front hub for 15mm thru axles. I need a conversion kit with different end caps to get it to fit into the fork dropouts. I had a reduction sleeve from 15 to 12 and thought that's gonna work. But the end caps are too big to slide into the fork drop outs, so I need to convert it.

I'll keep everyone posted.

July 11, 2024, 01:51:21 PM
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Re: Carbonda 505SL Integrated Stem
How funny, these are the two I was also split on! The acros one seems nice for the multiple ports, as I will run mechanical shifting at this time.

From your experience building up these all internal open mold frames, how would you recommend I go for running my two brake hoses AND a shifter housing line? I live in the American Southwest, it is extremely dry so rain/moisture is NOT a concern.

Each time I'm asked for one, I try to convince the rider to consider electronic shifting  8)
A definite no is cable disc brakes. Hydro brakes are easier to work with and require a fork with an internal hole.

Shifting needs a bit more care, there will be some additional turns in your hose, which add friction. Avoid sharp curves as much as you can.

August 01, 2024, 09:45:35 AM
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Re: Carbonda 505SL Integrated Stem
Each time I'm asked for one, I try to convince the rider to consider electronic shifting  8)
A definite no is cable disc brakes. Hydro brakes are easier to work with and require a fork with an internal hole.

Shifting needs a bit more care, there will be some additional turns in your hose, which add friction. Avoid sharp curves as much as you can.

And that's the best advice. Try to route it as smooth as possible on the complete frame. The entry point on the steerer instead of the side of the frame does not really change a lot.
Even if you route through a handlebar it can work really fine. However this routing creates a lot of pain for the build process itself  >:(
If I would go for a 505SL with mechanic 2x drive train I would enter the hoses into the top cap. Which is almost invisible then, but you don't have to fight with the handlebar.

August 09, 2024, 01:53:13 PM
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